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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


T^elhni^a^lHand  Bibiiograiph 


The  Institute  ha¥  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Kioatures  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique,  : 

which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significanu/  change    : 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  beioyv- 


□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couiour 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


Couverture  endommagie 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  at/ou  pelliculAe 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


n 

D 

0 


D 


D 


Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illusti'ations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  ro  liura  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  le  long  da  la  marge  tntdrieure 


Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais.  lorsque  cela  itait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  iti  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  IS  meilleur  exemplaire        \ 
qu'il  tui  a  M  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-^tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sent  indiquis  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 


D 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pelliculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolor^es,  tacheties  ou  piquees 


r~n    Pages  detached/ 


Pages  ditachees 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  inigale  de  ('impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  matiriel  suppi^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seuie  Edition  disponible 


rT]  Showthrough/ 

rn  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~l  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

|~~1  Only  edition  available/ 


i",.- 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partietlement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  it^  fiJm^es  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

»X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


r»  ■■■-•■ 
lAtails 
es  du 
modifier 
er  une 
filmage 


les 


"■iiSiWS-v 


Tha  copy  filmad  h«r«  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  gttharoaity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  are  filmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
tha  last  page  with  a  printad  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  covar  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copias  ara  filmad  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


L'axemplaira  filmA  fut  reproduit  grice  A  la 
ginArositA  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  At*  raproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  de  I'exemplaira  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmage. 

Les  exemplairas  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmis  en  commen^ant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  un  terminant  soit  par  la 
darniirepaga  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'irripression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autras  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  derriiire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
'whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
CBS:  le  symbols  —»•  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


errata 
J  to 


e  pelure, 
:on  d 


32X 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ara  filmad 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmis  A  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
da  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imagas  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

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*      aN  THE  RIVER  ST.  LAURENCE, 

;,-  .^^/^'^^•'^'-••'tHROUGH   THE-;-'' 

lONTINENT  OF  NORXII.AMERICA, 
FROZEN  AND  PACIFIC  OCEANS: 


IN  THE  YEARS  1789  AND  1793. 

With  a  Preliminary  Account  of 
TJIE  RISE,  PROGRESS,  AND  PRESENT  STATE  OF  THE 

FUR  TRADE 

OF  THAT  COUNTRY. 


'w  .*/i 


ILLUSTRATED   WITH  A  MJP. 


BY  ALEXANDER  MACKENZIE,  ESQ. 


THIRD  AMERICAN  EDITION. 


.    KEW'YORK: 

rUBUSHED  BY  EVERT  DUYCKINCK,  BOOKSBLLER. 


LEWIS  NICHOLS    PKINTBk. 

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ALEXANDER  MACKENZIE. 


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PREFACE. 


:t:i 


On  presenting  this  volume  to  ihycountr^^  it  is  not 
necessary  to  enter  into  a  particular  account  of  those 
voyages  whose  journals  form  the  principal  part  of  \ty 
as  they  will  be  found,  I  trust,  to  explain  themselves. 
It  appears,  however,  to  be  a  duty,  which  the  publiq 
have  a  right  to  expect  from  me,  to  state  the  reason* 
which  have  influenced  me  in  delaying  the  publication  j 

of  them.  ^v' ;•:^' y:'::;:,>;?^^'^-;.''';v'-V-''^'"'' 

It  has  been  asserted,  that  a  ihistihdcrBtanding  biei,;^ 

tween  a  person  high  in  office  and  myself,  was  the 
cause  of  this  procrastination.  It  has  also  been  pro- 
pagated, that  it  was  occasioned  by  that  precaution 
which  the  policy  of  commerce  will  sometimes  sug- 
gest ;  but  they  are  both  equally  devoid  of  foundation. 
The  one  is  an  idle  tale  ;  and  there  could  be  no  solid 
reason  for  concealing  the  circumstances  of  discove- 
ries, whose  arrangements  and  prosecution  were  so 
honourable  to  my  associates  and  myself,  at  whose  ex^ 
pense  they  were  undertaken.  The  delay  actually  arose 
from  the  very  active  and  busy  mode  of  life  in  which 
I  was  engaged  since  the  voyages  have  been  completed ; 
find  when,  at  length,  the  opportunity  arrived,  the  ap- 
prehension of  presenting  myself  to  the  Public  in  the 
character  of  an  Author,  for  which  the  course  and  oc- 
cupations of  my  life  have  by  no  means  qualified  me, 
made  me  hesitate  in  committing  my  papers  to  the 
press  ;  being  much  better  calculated  to  perform  the 
voyages,  arduous  as  they  might  be,  than  to  write  an 
account  of  them.  However,  they  are  now  offered  to 
the  Public  with  the  submission  that  becomes  me. 

I  was  led,  at  an  early  period  of  life,  by  commercial 
views  to  the  country  north-west  of  Lake  Superior,  in 
North  America,  and  being  endowed  by  nature  with  an 
inquisitive  mind  and  enterprizing  spirit;  possessing 
also  a  constitution  and  frame  of  bwly  equal  to  the  most 
arduous  undertakings,  and  being  familiar  with  toil- 
some exertions  in  the  prosecution  of  ipprcantile  pur- 
suits, I  not  only  contemplated  the  p^tieability  of 
penetrating  across  the  continent  of  Am^ica,  but  was 
confident  in  the  qualifications,  as  I  Mfa6f*pimated  by 
the  desire,  to  undertake  the  perilous  entelirize. 

A3-  ^.:r^' 


VI 


PREFACE. 


The  general  utility  of  such  a  discoveryt  has  been 
universally  acknowledged ;  while  the  wishes  of  my 
particular  friends  and  commercial  associates,  that  I 
should  proceed  in  the  pursuit  of  it,  contributed  to 
quicken  the  execution  of  this  favourite  project  of  my 
own  ambition  :  and  as  the  completion  of  it  extends  the 
boundaries  of  geographic  science,  and  adds  new 
countries  to  the  realms  of  British  commerce,  the  dan- 
ger I  have  encountered,  and  the  toils  I  have  suffered, 
have  found  their  recompence ;  nor  will  the  many  tedi- 
ous and  weary  days,  op  the  gloomy  and  inclement 
nights  which  I  have  passed,  have  been  passed  in  vain. 
The  first  voyage  has  settled  the  dubious  point  of 
a  practicable  north-west  passage;  and  I  trust,  that  it 
has  set  that  long  agitated  question  at  rest,  and  extin- 
guished the  disputes  respecting  it  forever.  An  en- 
larged discussion  of  that  subject  will  be  found  to  oc* 
cupy  the  concluding  pages  of  this  volume. 

In  this  voyage,  1  was  not  only  without  the  necessa- 
ry books  and  instruments,  but  also  felt  myself  defici- 
ent in  the  sciences  of  astronomy  and  navigation  ;  I  did 
not  hesitate  therefc. e,  to  undertake  a  winter's  voyage 
to  this  country,  in  order  to  procure  the  one  and  ac- 
quire the  other.  These  objects  being  accomplished, 
1  returned,  to  determine  the  practicability  of  a  com- 
mercial communication  through  the  continent  of  North 
America^  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans, 
which  is  piioved  by  my  second  journal*  Nor  do  I  he- 
sitate to  declare  my  decided  opinion,  that  very  great 
ond  essential  advantages  may  be  derived  by  extending 
our  tcade  froiri  one  sea  to  the  other. 

Some  accotint  of  the  fur  trade  of  Canada  from  thai 
country,  of  tiie  native  inhabitants,  and  of  the  extensive 
districts  connected  witli  it,  forms  a  preliminary  dis- 
course, which  will,  I  trust,  prove  interesting  to  a  na- 
tion whose  general  policy  is  blended  with,  and  whose, 
prosperity  is  supported  by,  the  pursuits  of  commerce. 
It  will  also  qualify  the  reader  to  pursue  the  succeeding 
voyages  with  superior  intelligence  and  satisfaction. 

These  voyages  will  not,  I  fear,  afford  the  variety 
that  may  be  expected  from  them ;  and  that  which  they 
ofier  to  the  eye,  is  not  of  a  nature  to  be,  effectually 


■^Pi'-^M' 


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's*'. 


'■J^.. 


1^- 


trtl\tferred  to  the  pag^e.  MountMiM  and  valHes,  th^ 
dreiiry  waste,  and  -vride«spreadin^  forests,  the  lakes 
and  rivers,  succeed  each  other  in  general  description ; 
ami)  except  on  the  coasts  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  where 
the  villages  were  permanent,  and  the  inhabitants  in  a 
great  measure  stationary,  small  bands  of  wandering  lih- 
dians  are  the  only  people  whoni  I  shall  introduce  to 
the  acquaintance  of  my  readers.  ■  v£ 

The  heaver  and  the  buffalo,  the  moose-deer  and  thi'?"' ' 
elk,  which  arc  the  principal  animals  to  be  found  in 
these  countries,  are  already  so  familiar  to  the  naturalists 
of  Europe,  and  have  been  so  often  as  well  as  correctly 
described  in  their  works,  that  the  bare  mention  of 
thein,  as  they  enlivened  the  landscape,  or  w<ere  hunted 
for  food ;  with  a  cursory  account  of  the  soil,  the  course 
and  navigation  of  lakes  and  rivers,  and  their  various 
produce,  is  all  that  con  be  reaisonably  expected  from  me* 

I  do  not  possess  the  science  of  the  naturalist )  and 
even  if  the  qualiiications  of  that  character  had  fa|een  at-^^fi^ 
tained  by  me,  its  curious  spirit  would  not  have  been'^J^ 
gratified.  I  could  not  stop  to  dig  into  the  earth,  overt;^^ 
whose  surface  I  was  compelled  to  pass  with  rapid  stepsi 
tior  could  I  turn  aside  to  collect  the  plants  whith  na- 
ture might  have  scattered  on  the  way,  when  my  thoughts 
were  anxiously  employed  in  making  provision  for  the 
day  that  was  passing  over  me.  I  hod  to  encounter 
perils  by  land  and  perils  by  water ;  to  watch  the  sa- 
vage who  w  as  our  guide,  or  to  guard  agidnst  tho  .;e  of 
his  tribe  who  might  meditate  our  destruction.  I  had, 
also,  the  passions  and  fears  of  others  to  control  and 
subdue.  To-day  I  had  to  assuage  the  rising  discon- 
tents, and  on  the  morrow  to  cheer  the  fainting  spirits, 
of  the  people  who  accompanied  me.^  The  toil  of  our  na- 
vigation was  incessant  and  oftentimes  extreme ;  and 
tn  our  progress  over  land  we  had  no  protection  from 
the  severity  of  the  elements,  and  possessed  no  accommo- 
dations or  conveniences  but  such  as  could  be  contain- 
ed ini  the  burden  on  our  shoulders,  which  aggravated 
the  toils  of  our  march,  and  added  to  the  wearisomeness 
of  our  way. 

Though  the  events  which  compose  my  journals  ii\ay 
hare  little  ia  the:7iselves  to  strike  the  iinaginatloa  oX 


;¥ 


•  •• 

VIU 


PREFACE. 


■/- 


1 


,  '^ttrbse  who  love  to  be  astonished,  or  to  gratify  the  cu- 
riosity of  such  as  are  enamoured  of  romantic  adven- 
tures ;  nevertheless,  when  it  is  considered  that  I  ex-^ 
plored  those  waters  which  had  never  before  borne  any 
other  vessel  than  the  canoe  of  the  savage ;  and  tra- 
Virsed  those  desarts  where  an  European  had  never  be- 
fore "presented  himself  to  the  eye  of  its  swarthy  na- 
tives ;  when  to  these  considerations  are  added  the  im-» 
portant  objects  which  were  pursued,  with  the  dangers 
that  were  encountered,  and  the  difficulties  that  were 
surmounted  to  attain  them,  this  work  will,  I  flatter 
myself,  be  found  to  excite  an  interest,  and  conciliate  re-» 
gard,  in  the  minds  of  those  who  peruse  it. 

Lefore  I  conclude,  I  must  beg  leave  to  inform  my 
readers,  that  they  are  not  to  expect  the  charms  of  em- 
bellished narrative,  or  animated  description ;  the  ap- 
probation due  to  simplicity  and  to  truth,  is  all  I  pre* 
sume  to  claiipn  ;  and  I  am  not  without  the  hope,  that 
this  claim  will  be  allowed  me.  I  have  described  what- 
ever I  saw  with  the  impressions  of  the  moment  which 
presented  it  to  me.  The  successive  circumstances  of 
my  progress  are  related  without  exaggeration  or  dis- 
play. I  have  seldom  allowed  myself  to  wander  into 
conjecture  ;  an*^  whenever  conjecture  has  been  indulg- 
ed, it  will  be  found,  I  trust,  to  be  accompanied  with 
the  temper  of  a  man  who  is  not  disposed  to  think,  too 
highly  of  himself:  and  if  at  any  ti.  e  I  have  delivered 
myself  with  confidence,  it  will  appear,  I  hope,  to  be  on 
tiiose  subjects  which,  from  the  habits  and  experience 
of  my  life,  will  justify  an  unreserved  communication 
of  my  opinions.  I  am  not  a  candidate  for  literary  fame  : 
at  the  same  time  I  cannot  but  indulge  the  hope,  that 
this  volume,  with  all  its  imperfections,  will  not  be 
thought  unworthy  the  attention  of  the  scientific  geo- 
grapher ;  and  that,  by  unfolding  countries  hitherto  un- 
explored, and  which,  I  presume,  may  now  be  consider- 
ed as  a  part  of  the  British  dominions,  it  will  be  re- 
ceived as  a  faithful  tribute  to  the  prosperity  of  my 
country. 

ALEXANDER  MACKENZIE. 

I©,VJDOfv',  November  30,  1801. 


II 


GENERAl    HISTORY 

ef  THE 

FUR  TRADE 

FROM 

CANADA  TO  TH£  NORTH-WEST. 

iHJt  fur  tradcf  from  the  earliest  settlement  of  G&n&- 
da)  was  considered  oLthe  first  importance  to  that  colo- 
ny. The  country  was  then  so  populous,  that,  in  the 
vicinity  ipf  the  establishments,  the  animals  whose  skins 
were  precious,  in  a  commercial  view,  soon  became  ve- 
ry scarce,  if  not  Altogether  extinct.  They  were  it  is 
true,  hunted  at  former  periods,  but  merely  for  food 
and  clothing.  The  Indians,  therefore,  to  procure  the 
necessary  supply,  were  encouraged  to  penetrate  into 
the  country,  and  v/ere  generally  accompanied  by  some 
of  the  Canadians,  who  found  means  to  induce  the 
z;emotest  tribes  of  natives  to  bring  the  skins  which 
were  most  in  demand,  to  their  setlements,  in  the  way 
of  trade. 

It  is  nci,  necessary  for  me  to  examine  the  cause, 
but  experience  proves  that  it  requires  much  less  time 
for  a  civilized  people  to  deviate  into  the  manners  and 
customs  of  savage  life,  than  for  savages  to  rise  into 
a  state  of  civilizatioti.  Such  was  the  event  y$X\i  those 
who  thus  accompanied  the  natives  on  their  hunting 
and  trading  excursions  ;  for  they  became  so  attached 
to  the  Indian  mode  of  life,  that  they  lost  all  reH^h  for 
their  former  habits  and  native  homes.  Ilencfc  they 
derived  the  title  of  Coureura  des  BoiSf  became  a  kind 
of  pedlars,  and  were  extremely  useful  to  the  merchants 
engaged  in  the  fur  trade :  who  gave  them  the  neces- 
sary credit  to  proceed  on  their  commercial  underta^ 
kings.  Three  or  four  of  these  people  would  join  their 
stock,  put  their  property  into  a  birch-bark  canoe,  which 
they  worked  themselves,  and  either  tUxompanied  thi? 


10  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


liatives  in  their  excursions,or  went  at  once  to  the  coun- 
try where  they  knew  they  were  tO-hvifi)t.  ^At  length, 
these  voyages  extended  to  twelve  or  ^fteen  months* 
when  they  returned  with  richx:argoes  of  furs,  and  fol- 
lowed by  great  numbers  of  the  natives.  During 
the  short  time  requisite  to  settle  their  accounts  with 
the  merchants,  and  procure  fresh  credit,  they  gen  ral- 
ly contrived  to  squander  ^away  all  their  gains,  when 
they  returned  to  renew  tljpeir  favourite  hiode  of  lifr  : 
their  views  being  answered,  and  their  labour  suffici- 
ently rewarded,  by  indulging  themselves  in  extrava- 
gance and  dissipation  during  the  short  space  of  one 
month  in  tw^ve  or  fifteen. 

This  indifference  about  amassing^  property,  and  the 
pleasure  of  living  free  from  all  restraint,  soon  brought 
on  a  licentiousness  of  manners  which  could  not  long 
escape  the  vigilant  observation  of  the  missionaries, 
who  had  much  reason  to  complain  of  their  being  a 
disgrace  to  the  christian  religion  ;  by  not  only  swerv- 
ing from  its  duties  themselves,  but  by  thus  bringing 
it  into  disrepute  with  thosfe  of  the  natives  who  had  be- 
come converts  to  it ;  and,  consequently,  obstructing 
the  great  object  to  which  those  pious  men  had  devot- 
ed their  lives.  They,  therefore,  exerted  their  influ- 
ence lo  procure  the  suppression  of  these  people,  and 
accordingly,  no  one  was  allowed  to  go  up  the  country 
to  traffic  with  the  Indians,  without  a  licence  from 
the  government. 

At  first  these  permissions  were,  of  course,  granted 
only  to  those  whose  character  was  such  as  could  give 
no  alarm  to  the  zeal  ofthe  missionaries:  but  they  were 
afterwards  bestowed  as  rewards  for  services,  on  officers, 
and  their  widows ;  and  they,  who  were  not  willing  or 
able  to  make  use  of  them,  (which  may  be  supposed  to 
be  al'vays  the  case  wii  those  of  the  latter  description) 
were  allowed  to  sell  them  to  the  merchants,  who  ne- 
cessarily employed  the  Coureurs  des  Bois,  in  quality 
of  their  agents ;  and  these  people,  as  may  be  imagined, 
gave  sufficient  cause  for  the  renewal  .of  former  con<^ 
plaints  ;  so  that  the  remedy  proved,  in  fact,  wor*e  ♦ban 
th^  diseaa^f  ' 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade*         1^ 

At  length,  military  posts  were  established  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  different  large  lakes  of  Canada,  which, 
in  a  great  measure,  checked  the  evil  consequences  that 
followed  froni  the  improper  conduct  of  the«e  foresters, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  protected  the  trade.    Besides, 
a  number  of  able  and  respectable  men  retired  from  the 
army,  prosecuted  the  trade  in  person,  under  their  res* 
pective  licences,  with  great  order  and  regularity,  and 
extended  it  to  such  a  distance,  as,  in  those  days,  was 
considered  to  be  an  astonishing  effort  of  commercial 
enterprize.     These  persons  and  the  missionaries  hav« 
ing  combined  their  views  at  the  same  time,  secured 
the  respect  of  the  natives,  and  the  obedience  of  the  peo- 
ple necv^ssarily  employed   in  the  laborious  parts  of 
this    undertaking.      These   gentlemen  denominated 
themselves  commanders,  and  not  traders,  though  they 
were  entitled  to  both  those  characters :  and,  as  for  the 
missionaries,  if  sufferings  and  hardships  in  the  prose- 
cution of  the  great  work  which  they  had  undertaken^ 
deserved  applause  and  admiration,  they  had  an  undoubt- 
ed claim  to  be  admired  and  applauded :  they  spared  no 
labour  and  avoided  no  danger  in  the  execution  of  their 
important  ofhce ;  and  it  is  to  be  seriously  lamented^ 
that  their  pious  endeavour  did  nc    meet  with  the  suc- 
cess which  they  deserved :  lor  there  is  hardly  a  trace 
to  be  found  beyond  the  cultivated  parts,  of  their  meri- 
torious functions. 

The  cause  of  this  failure  must  be  attributed  to  a  want 
of  due  consideration  in  the  mode  employed  by  the 
missionaries  to  propagate  the  religion  of  which  they 
were  the  zealous  ministers.  They  habituated  them- 
selves to  the  savage  life,  and  naturalized  themselves 
to  the  savage  manners,  and,  by  thus  becoming  depen- 
dent, as  it  were  on  the  natives,  they  acquired  their  con- 
tempt rather  than  their  veneration.  If  they  had  been 
as  well  acquainted  with  human  nature,  as  they  were' 
with  the  articles  of  their  faith,  they  would  have  known 
that  the  uncultivated  mind  of  an  Indian  must  be  dis- 
Pfsed  by  much  preparatory  method  and  instruction  to 
receive  the  revealed  truths  of  Christianity,  to  act  unf 
der  its  sanctions,  and  be  impelled  to  good  by  the  hope 


t$  Gerxrul  History  of  ^t  Fur  Trak^ 

of  its  reward,  or  turned  from  evil  by  die  fbar  of  its 
punishments.  They  shouM  have  began  their  woi*k , 
by  teaching  some  of  those  useful  arts  which  are  the 
inlets  of  knowledge,  and  lead  the  mind  by  degrees  to 
objects  of  higher  comprtfhension'.  Agriculture,  so 
formed  to  fix  and  combine  society^,  and  so  preparatory 
tot>bjects  of  superior  consideration,  should  have  been 
tShie  first  thing  introduced  among  a  savage  people :  it 
attachesthe  wandering  tribe  to  that  spot  were  it  adds 
so  much  to  their  comforts ;  while  it  gives  them  a  sense 
of  property^  and  of  lasting  possession,  instead  of  the 
uncertain  hopes  of  the  chase,  and  the  ftigitive  produce 
of  uncultivated  wilds.  Such  were  the  means  by  which 
the  forests  of  Paraguay  were  converted  into  a  scene 
cff  abundant  c  iltivation,  and  its  savage  inhabitants  in- 
troduced to  all  the  advantages  of  a  civilized  life* 

The  Canadian  missionaries  should  have  heeh  con- 
tented to  imjlrove  the  morals  of  their  own  coikitrymen, 
so  that  by  meliorating  their  character  and  conduciL 
they  would  have  given  a  striking  example  of  the  ef- 
fect of  religion  in  pfomoting  the  comforts  of  life  to  the 
surrounding  savages ;  and  might  by  degrees  have  ex- 
tended its  benign  influence  to  the  remotest  regions  of 
that  country,  which  was  the  object,  and  intended  to  be 
the  sctne,  of  their  evangelic  labours.  But  by  bearing 
the  light  of  the  Gospel  at  once  to  the  distance  of  two 
thousand  five  hundred  miles  from  the  civilized  part  of 
the  colonies,  it  was  suun  obscured  by  the  cloud  of 
ignorance  that  darkened  the  human  mind  in  tho^e 
distant  regions. 

The  whole  of  their  long  route  I  have  often  travelled^ 
and  the  recollection  of  sucha  people  as  the  missiona- 
ries having  been  there,  was  confined  to  a  few  super- 
annuated Canadians  who  had  not  left  that  country 
since  the  cession  to  the  English,  in  1763,  and  who 
particular]^  mentioned  the  death  of  some,  and  the 
dislrc^Uik  'situation  of  them  all..  But  if  these  rehgi- 
ous  men  did  not  attain  the  objects  of  their  perseverine; 
piety,  they  were,  during  their  mission,  of  great  qW" 
▼ice  to  the  commanders  who  engaged  in  those  dista"*: 
expeditions,  and  spread  the  fur  trade  as  far  west  as 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


13 


the  banks  of  the  Saskatchiwine  river,  in  53  north  la- 
titude, ahd  longitude  102  west. 

At  an  early  period  of  their  intercourse  with  the  sava- 
ges, a  ctistom  was  introduced  of  a  very  excellent  ten- 
dency, but  is  now  unfortunately  discontinued,  of  not 
selling  any  spirituous  liquors  to  the  natives.  This 
admirable  regulation  was  for  some  tkne  observed,  with 
all  the  respect  due  to  the  religion  by  which  it  was  sanc- 
tioned, and  whose  severest  censures  followed  the  vio- 
lation of  it.  A  painful  penance  could  alone  restore 
the  offender  to  the  suspended  rites  of  the  sacrament. 
The  casuistry  of  trade,  hoVever,  discovered  a  way  to 
gratify  the  Indians  with  theii*  favourite  cordial,  with- 
out incurring  the  ecclesiastical  penalties,  by  giving, 
instead  of  selling  it  to  them. 

But  notwithstandiBg  all  the  restrictions  with  which 
commerce  was  oppressed  under  the  French  govern- 
ment, the  fur  trade  was  extended  to  the  immense  dis- 
tance which  has  been  already  stated ;  and  surmount- 
ed many  most  discouraging  difficulties,  which  will  be 
hereafter  noticed  ;  while,  at  the  same  time,  no  exer- 
tions were  made  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  obtain  even  a 
sliare  of  the  trade  of  a  country  which,  accordiiig*  |o 
the  charter  of  that  company,  belonging  to  it,  and« 
from  its  proximity,  is  so  mtich  more  accessible  to  the 
mercantile  adventurer. 

Of  these  trading  commanders,  I  understood,  that 
two  attempted  to  penetrate  tq  the  Pacific  Ocean,  but 
the  utmost  extent  of  their  journey  I  could  never  learn  ; 
which  may  be  attributed,  indeed,  to  a  failure  of  the 
undertaking. 

For  some  time  after  the  conquest  of  Canada,  this 
trade  was  suspended,  which  must  have  been  very  ad- 
vantageous to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  as  all  the 
inhabitants  to  the  westward  of  Lake  Superior,  were 
obliged  to  go  to  tjiem  for  such  articles  as  their  habitu- 
al use  had  rendered  necessary.  Some  of  the  Canadi- 
ans who  had  lived  long  with  them,  and  were  become 
leached  to  a  savage  life,  accompanied  them  thither 
annually,  till  mercantile  adventurers  again  appekred 
irom  their  own  country,  after  an  interval  of  several 

B 


'W"T  ■" 


} 


1 4  General  History  ^  the  Fur  Trade, 

years,  c^ing,   as  I  suppose,  to  an  ignorance  of  the 
coiint/y  in  the  conquerors,  and  their  want  of  commer- 
cial confidence  in  the  conquered.     There  were,  in- 
tleed,  other  discouragements,   such  as  the  immense 
length  of  the  journey  necessary  to  reach  the  limits  be- 
yond which  this  comme»'ce  must  begin ;  the  risk  of 
property :  the  expenses  attending  such  a  long  trans- 
port ;  and  an  ignorance  of  the  language  of  those  who, 
from  their  experience,  must  he  necessarily  employed 
as  the  intermeiiate  agents  between  them  and  the  na- 
tives.    But,    notwithstanding   these    difficulties,    the 
trade,  by  degrees,  began  to  spread  over  the  difietent 
parts  to  which  it  had  'been  carried  by  the  French, 
though  at  a  great  risk  of  the  lives,  as  well  as  the  pro- 
perty, of  their  new  possessors,  for  the  natives  had  been 
taught  by  their  former  allies  to  entertain  hostile  dis- 
positions towards  the  English,  from  their  having  been 
in  alliance  with  their  natural  enemies  the  Iroquois ; 
and  there  were  not  wanting  a  sufficient  number  of  dis- 
contented, disappointed  people,  to  keep  alive  such  a 
notion  ;  so  that  for  a  long  time  they  were  considered 
and  treated  as  objects  of  hostility.     To  prove  this  dis- 
position of  the.  Indians,  we  have  only  to  refer  to  the 
conduct  of  Pentiac,  at  Detroit,  and  the  surprise  and 
taking  of  Michilimakinac,  about  this  period. 

Hence  it  arose,  that  it  was  so  late  as  the  year  1766, 
before  which,  the  trade  I  mean  to  consider,  commenced 
froni  Michilimakinac.  The  first  who  attempted  it 
■were  satisfied  to  go  the  length  of  the  River  Carae- 
nistiquia,  about  tliirty  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Grande  Portage,  where  the  French  had  a  principal  es- 
tablishment, and  was  the  line  of  their  communication 
with  the  interior  coimtry.  It  was  once  destroyed  by 
fire.  *Iere  they  went  and  returned  successful  in  the 
following  spring  to  Michilimakinac.  Their  success 
induced  them  to  renew  their  journey,  and  incited  others 
to  follow  their  example.  Some  of  them  remained  at 
Camenistiquia,  while  others  proceeded  to  and  beyond 
the  Grande  Portage,  which,  since  that  time,  ha&le- 
come  the  principal  entrepot  of  that  trade,  and  is  situ- 
in  a  bay,  in  latitude  48  north,  and  longitude  90  west. 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade-^ 


IS 


After  passing  the  usual  season  there,  they  went  back 
to  Michilimakinac  as  before,  and  encouraged  by  the 
trade,  returned  in  increased  numbers.  One  of  these, 
Thomas  Curry,  with  a  spirit  of  enterprize  superior  to 
that  of  his  contemiwraries,  determined  to  penetrate  to 
the  furthest  limits  of  the  French  discoveries  in  that 
country  :  or  at  least  till  the  frost  should  stop  him.  For 
this  purpose  he  procured  guides  and  interpreters,  who 
were  acquainted  with  the  country,  and  with  four  ca- 
noes arrived  at  Fort  Bourbon,  which  was  one  of  their 
posts,  at  the  west  end  of  the  Cedar  Lake,  on  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Saskatchiwinc*  His  risk  and  toil  were  welt 
recompenced,  for  he  came  back  the  following  spring 
with  his  canoes  filled  with  fine  furs,  with  which  he 
[proceeded  to  Canada,  and  was  satisfied  never  again  to 
[return  to  the  Indian  country. 

From  this  period  people  began  to  spread  over  every 
>art  of  the  country,  particularly  where  the  French  had 
(established  settlements. 

Mr.  James  Finlay  was  the  first  who  followed  Mr. 
[Curry's  example,  and  with  the  same  number  of  cu- 
jnoes,  arrived,  in  the  course  of  the  next  season,  at 
[Nipawee,  the  last  of  the  French  settlements  on  the 
ibank  of  the  Saskatchiwinc  River,  in  latitude  nearly 
[43^  north,  and  longitude  103  west :  he  found  the 
[good  fortune,  as  he  followed,  in  every  respect,  the  ex- 
[amplc  of  his  predecessor. 

As  may  be  supposed,  there  were  now  people  enough 

ready  to  replace  them,  and  the  trade  was  pursued 

Kvith  such  avidity,  and  irregularity  tliat  in  a  few  years 

ft  becanae  the  reverse  of  what  it  ought  to  have  been. 

\n  animated  competition  prevailed,  and  the  contending 

)arties  carried   the  trade  beyond  the  French  limits,, 

|hough  with  no  benefit  to  themselves  or  neighbours, 

»he  Hudson's-Bay  Company  ;  who  in  ike  year  1774, 

id  not  till  th^B,  thought  proper  to  move  from  home 

\q  the  east  hmk  of  Sturgeon  Lake,  in  latitude  53.  56. 

iiortli,  and  longitude.  103,  15.  west,   and  became  mp re 

^estous  of  their  ffiUow  subjects ;  and  perhaps^ilHth 

more  cause,  thai^  they  had  been  of  those  of  Frmce. 

prom  UUftpejfiQjl.ti^  tint  present  time,  thej;  have  bees 


is  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


.following  the  Canadians  to  their  different  establish- 
ments, while,  on  the  contrary,  there  is  not  a  -solitary 
instance  that  the  Canadians  have  followed  them ;  anU 
there  are  many  trading  posts  which  they  have  not  yet 
attained.  This,  however  will  no  loi^ger  be  a  mystery 
when  the  nature  and  policy  of  the  Hudson's-Bay  Com- 
pany is  compared  with  that  which  has  been  pursued 
by  their  rivals  in  this  trade, — But  to  return  to  my  sub- 
ject. 

This  competition,  which  h?.5  been  already  mentioned, 
gave  a  fatal  blow  to  the  trade  from  Canada,  and,  with 
other  incidental  causes,  in  my  opinion,  contributed  to 
its  min.     This  trade  was  carried  on  in  a  very  distant 
country,  out  of  the  reach  of  legal  restraint,  and  where 
there  Was  a  free  scope  given  to  any  ways  or  means  in 
attaining  advantage.     The  consequence  was  not  only 
the  loss  of  commercial  benefit  to  the  persons  engagetl 
in  it,  but  of  the  good  opinion  of  the  natives,   and  the 
respect  of  tneir  men,  who  were  inclined  to  follow  their 
example  ;  so  that  with  drinking,  carousing,  and  quar- 
relling with  the  Indians  along  their  route,  and  among 
themselves,  they  seldom  reached  their  winter  quar- 
ters ;  and  if  they  did,  it  was  generally  by  dragging 
their  property    upon  sledges,   ds  the  navigation  was 
closed  up  by  the  frost.     When  at  length  they  were 
arrived,  the  object  of  each  was  toinjure  his  rival  traders 
in  the  opinion  of  the  natives  as  much  as  was  in  their 
power,  by  misrepresentation  and  presents,  for  which 
the  agents  employed  were  peculiarly  calculated.  They 
considered  th^  command  of  their  employer  as  binding 
on  them,  and  however  wrong  or  irregular  the  transact 
tion,  the  responsibility  rested  with  the  principal  who  di- 
rected them.     This  is  Indian   law.     Thus  did  they 
waste  their  credit  and  their  property  with  the  natives, 
till  the  first  was  past  redemption,  and  the  last  was  near^ 
ly  exhausted ;  so  that  towards  the  spring  in  each  year, 
the  rival  parties  found  it  absolutely  necessary  to  j  oin, 
and  make  one  common  stock  of  what  remained,  for  the 
purpose  of  trading  with  the  natives,  who  could  en^r- 
tain  no  respect  for  persons  who  had  conducted  them- 
selves with  so  much  irregularity  and  deceit.     '^^^ 


Th© 


GenemlBtstory  of  the  Fur  Trade.  17 

"winter,  therefore  was  one  continued  scene  of  disagree- 
ments and  quarrels.  If  any  one  had  the  precaution  or 
good  se»se  to  keep  clear  of  these  proceedings,  he  de- 
rived a  proportionable  advantage  from  his  good  con- 
duct, and  frequently  proved  a  peace-maker  between 
the  parties.  To  such  an  height  had  they  earned 
this  licentious  conduct,  that  they  were  in  a  conti- 
nual state  of  alarm,  and  were  even  frequently  stopped 
to  pay  tribute  on  their  •  oute  into  the  country  ;  though 
they  had  adopted  the  pian  of  travelling  together  in  par- 
ties of  thirty  or  forty  canoes,  and  keeping  their  men 
armed  j  which  sometimes,  indeed,  proved  necessary 
for  their  defence. 

Thus  was  the  trade  carried  on  for  several  years,  and 
consequently  becoming  worse  and  worse,  so  that  the 
partners,  who  met  them  at  the  Grand  Portage,  natu- 
rally complained  of  their  ill  success.    But  specious  rea- 
sons were  always  ready  to  prove  tliat  it  arose  from  cir- 
cumstances which  they  could  not  at  that  thne  control ; 
and  encouragements  were  held  foiiih  to  hope  that  a 
change  would  soon  take   place,   which  would  make 
ample  amends  for  past  disappointments- 
It  was  about  this  time,  that  Mr.  Joseph  Frobisher, 
one  of  the  gentlemen  engaged  in  the  trade,  determin- 
ed to  penetrate  into  the  country  yet  unexplored,  to  the 
north  and  westward,  and,  in  the  spring  of  the  year 
1775,  met  the  Indians  from  that  quarter  on  their  way 
to  Fort  Churchill,  at  Portage  de  Traite^  i^o  named  from 
that  circumstance  on  the  banks  of  the  Missinipi,  or 
Churchill  River,  latitude  55.  25.  nortli,  longitude  103,J 
west.     It  was,  indeed,  with  some  difficulty,  that   he 
could  induce  them  to  trade  with  him,  but  he  at  length 
procured  as  many  furs  as  his  canoes  could  carry,     (n 
this   perilous  expedition  he   sustained  every  kind  of, 
hardship  incident  to  a  journey  through  a  wild  and  sa- 
vage country,  where  his  subsistence  depended  on  what 
the  woods  and  the  waters  produced.    These  difficul- 
ties, nevertheless,  did  liot  discourage  him  from  return- 
ing in  the  following  year,  Avhenhe  was  equally  success- 
ful.    He  then  sent  his  brother  to  explore  the  country 
still  further  west,  who  penetrated  as  far  as  the  lake 

JB2  . 


;?>>»'.i" 


■'■■■'' .. 


'*■  >i 


18  General  Tlistcry  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


I 


of  lalc  a  la  Croi:       in  latitude  55.  36.  north,  and  lon- 
f^riude  108.  west. 

He,  however,  never  after  wintered  among  the  Indi- 
ans, though  he  retained  a  large  interest  in  the  trade, 
and  a  principal  share  in  the  directing  of  it  till  the  year 
1798,  when  he  retired  to  enjoy  the  fruits  of  his  la- 
bours ;  and,  by  his  hospitality,  became  known  to  every 
respectable  stranger  who  visited  Canada. 

The  success  of  this  gentleman  induced  others  to  fol- 
low his  example,  and  in  the  spring  of  the  year  1778, 
some  of  the  traders  on  the  Saskatchiwine  River,  find- 
ing they  had  a  quantity  of  goods  to  spare,  agreed  to 
put  them  into  a  joint  stock,  and  gave  the  charge  and 
management  of  them  to  Mr.  Peter  Pond,  who,  in  four 
canoes,  was  directed  to  enter  the  English  River,  so 
called  by  Mr.  Frobisher,  to  follow  his  track  and  pro- 
ceed still  further ;  if  possible,  to  Athabasca,  a  country 
hitherto  unkpow  n  but  from  Indian  report.  In  this  cn- 
terprize  he  at  length  succeeded,  and  pitched  his  tent 
on  the  banks  of  the  Elk  River,  by  him  erroneously  cal- 
led the  Athabasca  River,  about  forty  miles  from  the 
Lake  of  the  Hills,  into  which  it  empties  itself. 

Here  he  passed  the  winter  of  1778-9;  saw  a  vast 
concourse  of  the  Knisteneaux  and  Chepewyan  tribes, 
who  used  to  carry  their  furs  annually  to  Churchill, ; 
the  latter  by  the  barren  grounds,  where  they  suffered 
innumei"able  hardships,  and  were  sometimes  even 
starved  to  death.  *The  former  followed  the  course  of 
the  lakes  and  rivers,  through  a  country  that  abound- 
ed in  animals,  and  where  there  was  plenty  of  fish :  but 
though  they  did  not  suffer  from  want  of  food,  the  into- 
lerable fatigue  of  such  a  journey  could  not  be  easily  re- 
paid to  an  Indian ;  they  were,  therefore,  highly  grati- 
fied by  seeing  people  come  to  their  country  to  relieve 
them  from  such  long,  toilsome,  and  dangerous  jour- 
nies;  and  were  immediately  reconciled  to  give  an  ad- 
vanced price  for  the  articles  necessary  to  their  com- 
fort and  convenience.  Mr.  Pond's  reception  and  suc- 
cess was  accordingly  beyond  his  expectation;  and  he 
procured  twice  as  many  furs  as  his  canoes  would  carry. 
They  also  supplied  him  with  as  much  provision  as  he 


Gemral  History  of  t/--  fur  Trade.  If 

required  during  his  residence  among  them,  and  suffi- 
cient for  his  homeward  voyage.  Such  of  the  furs  as  he 
could  not  embark,  he  secured  in  one  of  his  winter  huts, 
and  they  were  found  the  follov.lng  season  in  the  same 
state  in  which  he  left  themt 

These,  however,  were  but  partial  advantages,  and 
could  not  prevent  the  people  of  Canada  from  seeing  the 
improper  conduct  of  some  of  their  associates,  which 
rendered  it  dangerous  to  rei|>ain  any  longer  among  the 
the  natives.    Most  of  them  who  passed  the  winter  at 
the  Saskatchiwine,  got  to  the  Eagle  hills,  where,  in 
the  spring  of  the  year  1780,  a  few  days  previous  to 
their  intended  departure,  a  large  band  of  Indians  being 
engaged  in  drinking  about  their  houses,  one  of  the  tra- 
ders, to  ease  himself  of  the  troublesome  importunities 
of  an;iUve,  gave  him  a  dose  of  laudanum  in  a  glass  of 
grog,    which   effectually   prevented    him    from  giv- 
ing further  trouble  to  any  one,  by  setting  him  asleep 
for  ever.     This  accident  produced  a  fray,  in  which  one 
of  the  traders,  and  several  of  the  men  were   killed) 
while  the  rest  had  no  other  way  to  save  themselves  but 
by  a  precipitate  flight,  abandoning  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  goods,  and  near  half  the  furs  which  they  had  col- 
lected during  the  winter  and  the  spring. 

About  the  same  time,  two  of  the  establishments  or 
the  Assiniboin  river,  were  attacked  with  less  justice, 
when  several  white  men,  and  a  great  number  of  Indi- 
ans were  killed.  In  short,  it  appeared  that  the  na- 
tives had  formed  a  resolution  to  extirpate  the  ti*ader9 ; 
and,  without  entering  into  any  further  reasonings  on 
the  subject,  it  appears  to  be  incontrovertible,  that  the 
irregularity  pursue^  in  carrying  on  the  trade  has 
brought  it  into  its  present  forlorn  situation  j  and  nothing 
but  the  greatest  calamity  that  could  have  befallen  the 
natives,  saved  the  traders  from  destruction :  this  wa» 
the  small  pox,  which  spread  its  destructive  and  deso- 
lating power,  as  the  fire  consumes  the  dry  grass  of  the 
field.  The  fatal  infection  spread  around  with  a  bane- 
ful rapidity  which  no  flight  could  escape,  and  with  a  fa- 
tal effect  that  nothing  could  resist.  It  destroyed  with 
its  pestilential  breath  whole  families  and  tribes  j  and 


jM^  »       General  Histary  of  the  Fur  Trafilc* 


.i» 


the  horrid  scene  presented  to  thos«  who  had  the  me- 
lancholy and  afflicting  opportunity  of  beholding  it,  i^ 
combin&ti9n  of  the  deud,  the  dying,  and  such  as,  to- 
avoid  the  horrid  fute  of  their  friends  around  them, 
prepared  to  disappoint  the  plagjue  of  its  prey,  by  ter- 
minating their  own  existence. 

The  habits  and  lives  of  those  devoted  people,  which 
provided  not  to-day  for  the  wants  of  to-morrow,  must 
j[iav<^  licig;htened  the  pains  of  such  an  affliction,  by 
.  Jeav»ng  tlnm  ^^^  only  without  remedy,  but  even  with* 
out  alleviation.  Nought  was  left  them  but  to  submit  in 
agony  and  despair. 

To  aggravate  the  picture,  if  aggravation  were  pos- 
sible, may  be  added,  the  putrid  carcases  which  the 
wolves,  with  a  furious  voracity,  dragged  forth  from 
the  huts,  OP  which  were  mangled  within  them  by  the 
dogs,  whose  hunger  was  satisfied  with  the  disfigured 
remains  of  their  masters.  Nor  was  it  uncommon  for 
the  fatlier  ot  %  family,  whom  the  infection  had  not 
reached,  to  call  them  around  him,  to  represent  the 
cruel  sufferings  and  horrid  fate  of  their  relatioiw,  from 
tlic  influence  of  some  evil  spirit  who  was  preparing  to 
extirpate  their  race ;  and  to  incite  them  to  oaffle  death, 
with  all  its  horrors,  by  their  own  poniards.  At  the 
^ame  time,  if  their  hearts  failed  them  in  this  necessa- 
ry act,  he  was  himself  ready  to  perform  the  deed  of 
mercy  with  his  own  hand,  as  the  last  act  of  his  affec- 
tion, and  instantly  to  follow  them  to  the  common  place 
of  rest  and  refuge  from  human  evil. 

It  was  never  satisfactorily  ascertained  by  what 
means  this  malignant  disorder  was  introduced,  but  it 
was  generally  supposed  to  be  from  the  Missisouri,  by 
a  war  party* 

The  consequence  of  this  melancholy  event  to  the 
traders  must  be  self-evident ;  the  means  of  disposing 
of  their  goods  were  cut  off}  and  no  furs  were  obtain- 
ed, but  such  as  had  been-gathered  from  the  habitations 
of  the  deceased  Indians,  which  could  not  be  very  co. - 
siderable  :  nor  did  they  look,  from  the  losses  of  the 
present  year,  with  any  cncouragmg  expectations  to 
those  which  were  to  comet    The  only  fortunate  peo- 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


%l 


pie  consisted  of  a  party  who  had  again  penetrated  to 
the  northward  and  westward  in  17  80,  at  some  dis- 
tance up  the  Missinipi,  or  English  River,  to  Lake  la 
Rouge.  Two  unfortunate  circumstances,  howeveri 
happened  to  them ;  which  are  as  follow : 

Mr.  Wadin»  a  Swiss  gentleman,  of  strict  probity 
and  knovn  sobriety,  had  gone  there  in  the  year  1779, 
and  remained  during  the  summer  1780.     His  partners 
and  others,  engaged  in  an  opposite  interest,  when  at 
the  Grande  Portage,  agreed  to  send  a  quantity  of  goods 
on  their  joint  account,  which  was  accepted,    and  Mr. 
Pond  was  proposed  by  them  to  be  their  representa- 
tive to  act  in  conjunction  with  Mr.  Wadin.     Two  men, 
of  more  opposite  characters,  could  not,  perhaps,  have 
been  found.     In  short,  from  various  causes,  their  situ- 
ations became  very  uncomfortable  to  each  other,  and 
mutual  ill  will  was  the  natural  consequence :  without 
entering,   therefore,   into  a  minute  history  of  these 
transactions,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  observe,  that,  about 
the  end  of  the  year  1780,  or  the  beginning  of  the  year 
1781,  Mr.  Wadin  had  received  Mr.  Pond  and  one  of 
his  own  clerks  to  dinner ;  and,  in  the  course  of  the 
night,  the  former  was  shot  through  the  lower  part  of 
the  thigh,  when  it  was  said  that  he  expired  from  the  loss 
of  blood  and  was  buried  next  morning  at  eight  o'clock. 
Mr.  Pond  and  the  clerk  were  tried  for  this  murder  at 
Montreal,  and  acquitted  :  nevertheless,  their  innocence 
was  not  80  apparent  as   to  extinguish   the   original 
suspicion. 

The  other  circumstance  was  this.  In  the  spring  of 
the  year,  Mr.  Pond  sent  the  abovementioned  clerk  to 
meet  the  Indians  from  the  northward,  who  used  to  go 
annually  to  Hudson's  Bay  ;  when  he  easily  persuaded 
them  to  trade  with  him,  and  return  back,  that  they 
might  not  take  the  contagion  which  had  depopulated 
the  country  to  the  east-ward  of  them  :  but  most  unfor- 
tunately they  caught  it  here,  and  carried  it  with  them, 
to  the  destruction  of  themselves  and  the  neighbouring 
tribes. 

The  country  being  thus  depopulated,  the  traders  and 
their  friends  fr©m  Canadgy  who,  from  various  causes 


23  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


^:- 


m 


It 


I  h 


already  mentioned,  were  very  much  reduced  in  num- 
ber, became  confined  to  two  parties,  who  began  to 
think  seri^nisly  of  making  permanent  establishments 
on  the  Missinipi  river,  and  at  Athabasca  ;  for  which 
purpose,  in  1781-2,  they  selected  their  best  canoe-men, 
being  ignorant  that  the  small-pox  penetrated  that  way. 
The  most  expeditious  party  got  only  in  time  to  the 
Portage  la  Loche,  or  Mithy-Ouinigam,  which  divides 
the  waters  of  the  Missinipi  from  those  that  fall  into 
the  Elk  river,  to  dispatch  one  canoe  strong  handed, 
and  light  loaded,  to  that  country ;  but,  on  their  arrival 
there,  they  lound,  in  every  direction,  the  ravages  of 
the  small-pox;  so  that  from  the  great  diminution  of  the 
natives,  they  returtted  in  the  spring  with  no  more  than 
seven  packages  of  beaver.  The  strong  woods  and 
mountainous  countries  afforded  a  refuge  to  those  who 
fled  from  the  contagion  of  the  plains  ;  but  they  were  so 
alarmed  at  tlje  surrounding  destruction,  that  they  a- 
voided  the  traders,  and  were  dispirited  from  hunting, 
except  for  their  subsistence.  The  traders,  however, 
who  returned  into  the  country  in  the  year  1782-3  found 
tlie  inhabitants  ip  some  sor.t  of  tranquillity,  and  more 
numerous  than  they  had  reason  to  expect,  so  that  their 
success  was  proportionably  better.     • 

During  the  winter  of  1783-4,  the  merchants  of  Ca- 
nada, engaged  in  this  trade,  formed  a  junction  of  in- 
terests, under  the  name  of  the  North-West  Company, 
an^ivided  it  into  sixteen  shares,  without  depositing 
any  capital ;  each  party  furnishing  a  proportion  or 
quota  of  such  articles  as  were  necessary  to  carry  on 
the  trade :  the  respective  parties  agreeing  to  satisfy 
tiie  friends  they  had  in  the  country,  who  were  not  pro- 
vided for,  according  to  this  agreement,  out  of  the  pro- 
portions which  they  held.  The  management  of  the 
whole  was  accordingly  entrusted  to  Messrs.  Benjamin 
and  Joseph  Frobisher,  and  Mr.  Simon  M'Tavish,  two 
distinct  houses,  whohad  the  greatest  interest  and  influ- 
ence in  the  country,  and  for  which  they  were  to  re- 
ceive a  stipulated  commission  in  all  transactions. 

In  the  spring,  two  of  those  gentlemen  went  to  the 
Grwide  Pprtage  with  their  credentials,  which  were 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


stz 


coiifirnied  and  ratified  by  all  the  parties  having  an  op- 
tion, except  Mr.  Peter  Pond,  who  was  not  satisfied 
with  the  share  allotted  him.  Accordin:^ly  he  and  an- 
other gentleman,  Mr.  Peter  Pangman,  who  had  a  right 
to  be  a  partner,  but  for  whom  no  provision  had  been 
made,  came  to  Canada,  with  a  determination  to  return 
to  the  country,  if  they  could  find  any  persons  to  join 
them,  and  give  their  scheme  a  proper  support. 

The  traders  in  the  country,  and  merchants  at  Mon- 
treal, thus  entered  into  a  co-partnership,  whicli^  by 
these  means,  was  consolidated  and  directed  by  able 
men,  who,  from  the  powers  with  which  they  were  en- 
trusted, could  carry  en  the  trade  to  the  utmost  extent 
it  would  bear.  The  traders  in  the  country,  therefore, 
having  every  reason  to  expect  that  their  past  and  fu- 
ture labours  would  he  recompensed,  forgot  all  their 
former  animosities,  and  engaged  with  the  utmost  spirit 
and  activity,  to  forward  the  general  interest ;  so  that, 
in  the  following  year,  they  met  their  agents  at  the 
Grancie  Portage,  with  their  canoes  laden  with  rich  furs 
from  the  different  parts  of  that  immense  tract  of  coun- 
try. But  this  satisfaction  was  not  to  be  enjoyed  without 
some  interruption ;  and  they  were  mortified  to  find 
that  Mr.  Pangman  had  prevailed  on  Messrs.  Gregory 
and  Macleod  to  join  him,  and  give  him  their  support 
in  the  business,  though  deserted  by  Mr.  Pond,  who  ac- 
cepted the  terms  offered  by  his  former  associates* 

In  the  counting  house  of  Mr.  Gregory  I  had  been 
five  years  ;  and  at  this  period  had  left  him,  with  a 
small  adventure  of  goods,  with  which  he  had  entrusted 
me,  to  seek  my  fortune  at  Detroit.  He,  without  any 
solicitation  on  my  part,  had  procured  an  insertion  in 
the  agreement,  that  I  should  be  admitted  a  partner  in 
this  business,  on  condition  that  I  would  proceed  to  the 
Indian  country  in  the  following  spring,  1785.  His 
partner  came  to  Detroit  to  make  mc  such  a  proposition. 
I  readily  assented  to  it,  and  immediately  proceeded  to 
the  Grand  Portage,  were  1  joined  my  associates. 

We  now  found  that,  independent  of  the  natural 
difficulties  of  the  undertaking,  we  should  have  to  en- 
counter every  other  which  they,  who  were  already  in 


24  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


iv! 


I'M 


possession  of  the  trade  of  the  country,  could  throw  in 
our  way,  and  which  their  circumstances  enabled  them 
to  dp.  Nor  did  they  doubt,  from  their  own  superior  ex- 
perience, as  well  as  that  of  their  clerks  and  men,  .  ith 
their  local  knowledge  of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants, 
that  they  should  soon  compel  us  to  leave  the  country 
to  them.  The  event,  however,  did  not  justify  their 
expectations ;  for,  after  the  severest  struggle  ever 
known  in  that  part  of  the  world,  and  suifering  every 
oppression  which  a  jealous  and  rival  spirit  could  in- 
stigate ;  after  the  murder  of  one  our  partners,  the  lam- 
ing of  another,  and  the  narrow  escape  of  one  of  oup 
clerks,  who  received  a  bullet  through  his  powder  horn, 
in  the  execution  of  his  duty,  they  were  compelled  to 
allow  us  a  share  of  the  trade.  As  we  had  already 
incurred  a  loss,  this  union  was  in  every  respect,  a  de- 
sirable event  to  us,  and  was  concluded  in  the  month 
of  July  ITisr. 

This  commercial  establishment  was  now  founded  on 
a  more  solid  basis  than  any  hitherto  known  in  the  coun- 
try }  and  it  not  only  continued  in  full  force,  vigour, 
and  prosperity,  in  spite  of  all  interference  from  Cana- 
da, but  maintained  at  least  an  equal  share  of  advantage 
with  the  Hudson's-Bay  Company,  notwithstanding  the 
superiority  of  their  local  situation.  The  following  ac- 
count of  this  self-erected  concern  will  manifest  the 
cause  of  its  success. 

It  assumed  the  title  of  the  North-West  Company,  I 
and  was  no  more  than  an  association  of  commercial 
men,  agreeing  among  themselves  to  carry  on  the  fur 
trade,  unconnected  with  any  other  business,  though 
many  of  the  parties  engaged  had  extensive  concerns 
altogether  foreign  to  it.  It  may  be  said  to  have  been 
supported  entirely  upon  credit ;  for,  whether  the  ca- 
pital belonged  to  the  proprietor,  or  was  borrowed,  it 
equally  bore  interest,  for  which  the  association  was 
annually  accountable.  It  consisted  of  twenty  shares, 
unequally  divided  among  the  persons  concerned.  Of 
these  a  certain  proportion  was  held  by  the  people  who 
managed  the  business  in  Canada,  and  were  styled 
agents  for  the  Company.     Their  duty  was  to  import 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,  tS 

the  necessary  goods  from  England,  stofe  them  at  their 
own  expence  at  Montreal,  get  them  made  up  into  the 
articles  suited  to  the  trade,  pack  and  forward  them,  and 
supply  the  cash  that  might  be  wanting  for  the  outfits  ; 
for  which  they  received,  independent  of  the  pl'ofit  on 
their  shares,  a  commission  on  the   amount  of  the 
accounts,  which  they  were  obliged  to  make  out  an- 
nually, and  keep  the  adventure  of  each  year  distinct. 
Two  of  them  went  annually  to  the  Grande  Portage,  id 
manage  and  transact  the  business  there,  and  on  the 
communicatior  at  Detroit,  Michilimakinac,  St.  Mary's, 
and  at  Montreal,  where  they  received  stores,  packed 
up,  and  shipped  the  company's  furs  for  England,  on 
which  they  had  also  a  small  commission.     The  re- 
maining shares  were  held  by  the  proprietors,    who 
were  obliged  to  winter  and  manage  the  business  ^f  the 
concern  with  the  Indians,  and  their  respective  clerks, 
&c.     They  were  not  supposed  to  be  under   any  obli- 
gation to  furnish  capital,  or  even  credit.     If  they  ob- 
tained any  captital  by  the  trade,  it  was  to  remain  in 
the  hands  of  the  agents ;  for  which  they  were  allowed 
interest.     Some  of  them,  from  their  long  services  and 
influence,  held  double  shares,  and  were  allowed  4;©  re- 
tire from  the  business  at  any  period  of  the  existing 
concern,  with  one  of  those  shares,  naming  any , young 
man  in  the  company's  service  to  succeed  him  in  the 
other.     Seniority  and  merit  were,  however,  consider- 
ed as  affording  a  claim  to  the  succession,  which,  ne- 
vertheless, could  not  be   di§posed  of  without  the  con- 
currence of  the  majority  of  the  concern:;  wh6,  at  the 
same  time,  relieved  the  seceding  person  from  any  res-* 
ponsibility   respecting  the  share  that  he  transferred, 
and  accounted  for  it  according  to  the  annua!!  value  or 
rate  of  the  property ;  so  that  the  seller   could   have 
no  advantage  but  that  of  getting  the  share  of  stock 
which  he   retained  realised,  and  receiving   for    the 
transferred   share  what  was  fairly   determined  tq  be 
the  worth  of  it.     The  former  was  also  discharged  from 
^11  duty,  and  became  a  dormant  partner;    Thus,  all 
the  young  men  who  were   not  provided  for  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  contract,  succeeded  in  succession  to 

C 


Xi?y 


26  General  Mistovy  of  the  Fur  Trade, 

■>  the  charracter  and  advantages  of  jHirtners.  They  en- 
tered into  the  company's  service  for  five  or  seven 
year?|  under  such  expectations,  and  their  reasonabtc 
prospects  were  seldom  disappointed :  there  were,  indeed, 
instances  when  they  succeeded  to  shares,  before  their 
apprenticeship  was  expired,  and  it  frequently  happen- 
ed that  they  were  provided  for  while  they  were  in  a 
state  of  articled  clerkship.  Shares  were  transferable 
only  to  the  concern  at  large,  as  no  person  could  be 
admitted  as  a  partner  who  had  not  served  his  time  to 
the  trade.  The  dormant  partner  indeed  might  dis- 
pose of  his  interest  to  any  one  he  chose,  but  if  the 
transaction  was  not  acknowledged  by  his  associates, 
the  purchaser  could  not  be  considered  as  his  agent  or 
attorney.  Every  share  had  a  vote,  and  two-thirds  for- 
med a  !majdnty.  This  regular  and  equitable  mode  of 
providing  for  the  clerks  of  the  company,  excited  a 
spirit  of  emulation  in  the  discharge  of  their  various 
duties,  and  in  fact,  made  every  agent  a  principal,  who 
perceived  his  own  prosperity  to  be  immediately  con- 
nected with  that  of  his  employers.  Indeed,  without 
such  a  spirit,  such  a  trade  could  not  have  become  so 
extended  and  advantageous,  as  it  has  been  and  now  is. 

In  17.88,  the  gross  amount  of  the  adventure  for  the 
year  did  not  exceed  forty  thousand  pounds,  *  but  by 
ine  exertion,  enterprize,  and  industry  of  the  prqprie- 
tors,  it  was  brought  in  eleven  years  to  triple  that  amount 
and  upwards  ;  yielding  proportionate  profits,  and  sur- 
passing, in  short,  any  thing  known  in  America. 

Such,  therefore,  being  the  prosperous  state  of  the 
company.  It  very  naturally  tempted  others  to  interfere 
■with  the  concern  in  a  manner  by  no  means  beneficial 
to  the  company,  and  commonly  ruinous  to  tlie  under- 
takers. 

In  1798  the  concern  underwent  a  new  form,  the 
shares  were  increased  to  forty-six,  new  partners  being 
admitted,  aud  others  retiring.  This  period  was  the 
termination  of  the  company,  which  was  not  renewed 

•  This  might  be  property  called  the  stock  of  the  company,  as  it  included,  with  tlw 
expendituieoof  the  yt:ar,  ine  amount  6f  tlie  property  unexpended,  which  had  l>een 
appropriated  fur  Wte  adveatarc  of  tUktfC^r,  and  was  carried  on  to  the  accotiot  af 

;lB<  tollowlnij  adventure. 


Central  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,  tf 

by  all  the  parties  concerned  in  it,  the  majority  con- 
tinuing to  act  upon  the  old  stock,  and  under  the  old  firm ; 
the  others  beginning  %  new  one  ;   and  it  now  remains 
to  be  decided,  whether  two  parties,   under  the.  same 
regulations  and  by  the  same  exertions,  though  unequal- 
;in    number,   can   continue    to  carry  6n  the  business 
ko  a  successful  issue.     The^contrary  opinion  has  been 
iheld,  which,  if  verified,  will  make  it  the  interest  of  the 
parties  again  to  coalesce ;  for  neither  is  deficient  in^ 
[capital  to  support  their  obstinacy  in  a  losing  trade,  as 
it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  either  will  yield  on  any 
[othei^terms  than  perpetual  participation. 

It  will  not  be  supei'ftuous  in  this  place,  to  explain 
[the  general  mode  of  carrying  on  the  fur  trade. 

The  agents  are  obliged  to  order  the  necessary-  good^ 
pponar  England   in  the  months  of  October,  eighteen 
lOfvths  before  they  can  leave^  Montreal :  that  is,  they 
iro  not  shipped  from  London  until  the  spring  follow- 
ing, when  tl*ey  arrirve  in  Canada  in  the  summer.     In- 
the  course  of  the  following  winter  they  are  made  up 
jnto-  suclv  articles  as  are  required  foi*  the  savages  ;  they 
iHo  theft  packed  into  pttrcehi  of  nmety  pounds^  weight 
jaeh,  but  cannot  be  sent  from  Montreal  iintitthe  May 
following  ;  so- that- they- do  not  get  to  market  until  the 
jnsuing  winter,  when  they  are  exchanged  for  furs» 
[which  come  to  Montreal  tlve  next  fall,  and  from  thence 
[are  shipped,  chiefty  to  London,  where  they  2sm0St 
js©ld  or  paid  for  before  the  succeeding   spring  or 
even  as  late  as  Jtme ;  which  is^  forty-two  months  at- 
jter  the  goods  were- ordered  in  Ganad^;  thirty  six  after 
they   had  been  shipped  from   England  and  twenty- 
four  after  tliey  had  been forwai'ded  from  Montreal;  •^ 
jso  that  the    merchant^    allowing  that  he  ha^  twelve 
I Aionths  credit,  does  not  receive  a,  return  to  pay  for 

*  "Riis  will  be  better  illustrated  by  the  following  statement : 
IWe  Mtill  supiwjse  the  goods  for  1798  .        » 

The  orders  for  the  [joods  are  sent  to  this  country    -----       25th  Oct.  179C 

They  are  shipped  from.  Londonv -.,-.-    &)arch  1797 

They  arrive  in  Monireal   --------.,...-,      jup^  i7iJ7 

They  are  njule  up  in  thfr course- of  that  summer  and  winter, 

ITiey  are  stnt  from  Montrei»\ -  Mpj  IT^B- 

They  arrive  in  the  Indian  country,  and  are  exchanged,  for  fujrs  -the  loilowine 

winter -.----,.    J-.    ..-'.      x'm-W 

Wluch  furs  come  to  Montreal.     ---,--------..  sept.  V799 

Aod^re  shipped  for  London,  wiwr^  tb«y  ar^sold  in  March  t^n^^p^Vai  mM 

for  in  M»y  or  Juue -  '  ^-  v"  igifj 


38  Cenerui  Ifistory  of  the  Fur  Trtuh* 

thbic  goody,  and  the  necessary  expenses  attending 
theniy  which  is  about  equal  to  the  value  of  the  goods 
themselves^  until  two  years  after  they  are  considerejd 
as  cash,  which  makes  this  a  very  heavy  business. 
There  is  even  a.small  porporiion  of  it"  that  requires 
twelve  months  longer  to  bring  round  the  payment,  ow- 
ing to  the  immense  distance  it  is  carried,  and  from  the 
shortness  of  tlie  seasons,  which  prevents  the  furs,  even 
after  they  are  collected,  from  coming  out  of  the  coun- 
try for  that  period. 

The  articles  necessary  for  this  trade,  are  coarse 
woollen  cloths  of  different  kinds ;  milled  blankets  of 
different  sizes  ;  arms  and  ammunition ;  twist  and  car- 
rot tobacco ;  Manchester  goods ;  linens  and  coarse 
sheetings ;  thread,  lines  and  twine ;  common  hardware ; 
cutlery  and  ironmongery  of  several  descriptions  ;  ket- 
tles of  brass  and  copper,  and  sheet-iron  ;  siik  and  cot- 
ton handkerchiefs }  hats,  shoes  and  hose ;  callicoes  and 
printed  cottons,  kc.  Sec.  Sec.  Spirituous  liquors  and 
pirovisions  are  purchased  in  Canada.  These,  and  the 
expense  of  transport  to  and  from  the  Indian  country, 
includinjg;  wages  to  clerks,  interpreters,  gui^des,  and 
canoe-men,  with  the  expense  of  making  up  the  goods 
for  the  market,  form  about  half  tlie  aimual  amount 
against  the  adventure. 

This  expenditure  in  Canada  ultimately  tends  to  the 
encouragement  of  British  manufactory,  for  those  who 
are  employed  in  the  different  branches  of  this  business^ 
are  enabled  by  their  gains  to  purchase  such  British 
articles  as  they  must  otherwise  forego. 

Thfe  produce  of  the  year  of  which  I  am  now  speak- 
ing, consisted  of  the  following  furs  and  peltries: 


106,000  Beaver  skins, 
2 100  Bear  skins, 
1500  Fox  skins, 
4000  Kitt  Fox  skins, 
4600  Otter  skins, 
17,000  Musquash  skins, 
32,000  Marten  skins, 
1800  Mink  skins, 


6000  Lynx  skins, 
600  Wolverine  skins, 

1650  Fisher  skins, 
100  Hackoon  skins, 

3800  Wolfskins, 
700  Elk  skins, 
750  Deerskins, 

1200  Do.  dressed. 


500  Buffalo  robes^and  a  quaatity  of  castorum* 


Genera.  History  of  the  Fiff  Trade, 


90 


Of  these  were  diverted  from  the  British  market,- 
being  sent  through  the  United  States  to  China,  13,364' 
skins,  fine  beaver,  weighing  19,283  pounds  ;  1250  fin« 
otters,  and  1724  kitt  foxes.  They  would  have  found 
their  way  to  the  China  market  at  any  rate,  but  this 
deviation  from  the  British  channels  arose  from  the  foU 
lowing  circumstance : 

,  An  adventure  of  this  kind  was  undertaken  by  a  res- 
pectable house  in  London,  half  concerned  with  the 
North.  West  Company,  in  the  year  1792.  The  furs  were 
of  the  best  kind,  and  suitable  to  the  market ;  and  the  ad- 
venturers continued  this  connection  for  five  successive 
years,  to  the  annual  amount  of  forty  thousand  pounds.- 
At  the  winding  upof  the  concern  of  1792,  1793,  1794, 
1795,  in  the  year  1797,  (the  adventure  of  1796  not  be- 
ing included,  as  the  furs  iwere  not  sent  to  China,  but  dis-* 
posed  of  in  London)  the  North-West  Company  expe- 
rienced a  loss  of  upwards  of  X.  40,000  (their  half)  which 
was  principally  owing 'to  the  difficulty  of  getting  homr 
the  produce  procured  in  return  for  the  furs  from  ChU  - 
na,  in  the  East  India  Company's  ships,  together  witK 
the  duty  payable,  and  the  various  restrictions  of  that 
company.     Whereas,  from  America  there  arenoim.- 
pediments  ;  they  get  immediately  to- »mafket,^Hd  the 
produce  of  them  is  brought  back,.and  perhaps  sold  in  the 
course  of  twelve  months*    From  surch  ^  advantages  the 
furs  of. Canada  will  no  doubt  find  their,  way  to  -China ^ 
by  America,  which  would  not  be  the  case  if  British 
subjects  had  the  same  privileges  that  are  allowed  to 
foreigners,  as  London  would  then  be .  found  the  best 
and  safest  ratirket*- 

But  to  return-  tO'  our  principal  subject.'  We  shall  I 
now  proceed  to  consider  the  number  of  men  employ-  - 
edin  the  concern :  .viz,  fifty  clerks,  seventy-one  inter- - 
preters  and  clerks,  one  thousand  one  hundred  and  : 
twenty  canoe-men,  and  thirty -five  guides.  Of  these,  , 
five  clerks,  eighteen  guides,  three  hundred  and  fifty  ca- 
noe-men were  employed  for  the  summer  season  in  going  . 
from  Montreal  to  the  Grand  Portage,  in  canoes,  -.part :. 
of  whom  proceeded  from  thence  to  Rainy  Lake:,  as  % 
will  be  hereafter  explained,  and  are  called  Pork-eaters,^, 

C2. 


aO  Q^TKr^l  Hktory  of  the  Fur  Trade*. 

«ip  Goers  and  Comtrs.    These,  were  hired  in  Canada 
or  Montreal,  and  ^«ere  absent  from  the  Istof  May  till 
the  l^t^rend  of  September.     For  this  trip  the  guides 
had  from  ei|;ht  hmxdred  to  a  thousand  livrea^  and  a 
suitable  equipment ;  the  foreman  and  steersman  from, 
four  to  six  hundred  livres,  the  middlemen  from  two 
hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  and  fifty  livres, 
with  an  equipment  of  one  blanket,  one  shirt,  and  one 
pair  of  trowrsers ;  and  were  maintained  during  that 
period  at  the  expense  of  their  employers.     Indepen- 
dent of  their  wages,  they  were  allowed  to  traffic,  and 
many  of  them  earned  to  the  amount  of  their  wages. 
About  one  third  of  these  went  to  winter^  and  had  more 
than  double  the  above  wag^>  and  e<^u}pment>    All  the 
winterers  ^i^^re  hired  by  the  year,  and  sometimes  for 
three  years ;  and  of  the  derks.  many  were  apprentices, 
who  were  generally  engaged  for  five  or  seven  yearfij 
for  which  they  had  cnly  one   hujidred  pounds,  provif 
&ion  and  clothing*    Such  of  them  who  could  not  be 
provided  for  as  partners,  at  the  expiration  of  thi»  tinact 
were  alloiwed  from,  one  nundred  pounds  tothree  hundred 
pounds  per.  anmini)  with  dl  necessaries,  tiULprovision 
w<is  made^foif  tl^m.    Those  who  acted  in  the  two-fold 
aapacity  of  clerk,  andtjmterpreter)  or  were;  so  denomin* 
^^,  ha^  noQthe^?  expeetation  tli»n  the  payment  of 
wages  to  the  amqunfi  (^from  one  thousand  to  four  thou? 
sand  livres  pei^  aniYum>.  wathv  dothing  and  provisions* 
l^e  guidea,  whot  are  a*  vei7  useful  set  of  men,  acted 
also  in  the  ad^itiomal  caipacityr  of  interpreters,  and  had 
a  stated  quantity  of  goods,  considered  as  sufficient  for 
their  wants,  their  wages  being  from  one  to  three  thou- 
sand livres*    The  canoie-men  are  of  two  descriptions, 
foremen  andsteiennen^and  middlemen.    The  two  first 
were  allowed  annually  one  thousand  two  hundred,  and 
and  latter  four  hundcedr  lis?i*esr  each.     The  first  class 
had  what  is  called,  an  equipment,  consisting  of  two 
blankets,  two  shirts,  two  pair  of  trowsers,  two  hand- 
kerchiefe»  fourteen  pounds  of  carrot  tobacco,  and  some 
trifling  articles.     The  latter  had  ten  pounds  of  tobac- 
co,, and  all  the  other  articles  r  those  are  called  North 
>U.n,,or  \Vift|e;i:ersj  ai}d  to  the  last  class  of  people 


Gtneral  JRitory  of  the  Fur  Trade.  9^ 

■were  attached  upvvards  of  seven  hutidred  Indian  wo- 
men and  children,  victualled  at  the  expense  of  the 
[company. 

This  first  class  of  people  are  hired  in  Montreal  five 
I  months  before  they  set  out,  and  receive  their  eqtiip- 
iment,  and  one  third  of  their  wapfes  in  advance;  and 
an  adequate  idea  of  the  labour  they  undergo  may  be 
formed   from  the   following  account  of  the  country 
t  through  whichthey  pass,  and  theirmannerof  proceeding. 
The  necessary  number  of  canoes  being  purchased, 
at  about  three  hundred  livres  each,  the  goods  formed 
into  packages,  and  the  lakes  and  rivers  free  of  ice, 
which  they  usually  are  in  the  beginning  of  May,  they 
are  then  dispatched  from  La  Chine,  eight  miles  above 
Montreal,  with  eight  or  ten  men  in  each  canoe,  and 
^their  baggage ;  and  sixty-five  packages  of  goods,  six 
[kundred  weight  of  biscuit,  two  hundred  weight  of  pork, 
iree  bushels  of  pease,  for  the  men's  provision  \  two 
(oil  cloths  to  cover  the  goods,  a  sail  &c.  an  axe,.atow- 
Eing  line,  a  kettle^  and  a  sponge  to  bail  out  the  water, 
with  a  quantity  of  gum,  bark,  and  watape,  to  repaiv 
the  vessel.    An  European,  on  seeing  one  of  these 
slender  vessels  thus  laden,  heaped  up,  and  'sunk  with 
her  gunwale  within  six  inches  of  the  water,  would  think 
his  fate  inevitable  in  such  a  boat,  when  he  reflected  on 
ike  nature*  of  her  voyage ;  but  the  Canadians  are  so 
expert,  that  few  accidents  happen. 
.   Leaving  LaChine^  tliey  proceed  to  St.  Ann's^  with- 
in two  mile&  of  the  western  extremity  of  the  island 
of  Montreal,  the  lake  of  the  two  mountains  being  in 
sight,  which  may  be  termed  the  commencement  of  the 
Utawas  River.     At  the  rapid  of  St.  Ann  they  are  obli- 
ged to  take  out  part,  if  not  the  whole  of  their  lading* 
It  is  from  this  spot  that  the  Canadians  consider  they 
take  their  departure,  as  it  possesses  the  last  church  on 
the  island,   which  is  dedicated  to  the  tutelar  saint  of 
voyages. 

The  lake  o^thetwomountainsis  about  twenty  miles 
lor^,  but  not  more  than  three  wide,  and  surrounded 
by  cultivated  fields,  except  the  Seignory  belonging  to 
the  clergy,  though  nominally  in  possession  oftheiit© 


33  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trader 

tribes  of  Iroquois  and  Algonquins»  whose  village  \% 
situated  on  a  delightful  point  of  land  under  the  hills,, 
which)  by  the  title  of  mountains,  give  a  name  to  the 
lake.  Near  the  extremity  of  the  point  their  church 
is  built,  which  divides  the  villai^e  in  two  parts,  form- 
ing a  regular  angle  along  the  water  side  On  the  east 
is  the  station  of  the  Algonquins,  and  on  the  west, 
one  pf  the  Iroquois,  consisting  in  all  of  about  Hve  hun- 
dred warrriors.  Each  party  has  its  missionary,  and 
divine  worship  is  performed  acrording  to  the  rites  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  religion,  in  their  respective  lan- 
guages, in  the  same  church:  and  so  ussiduous  have 
their  pastors  been,  that  these  people  have  been  in- 
structed in  reading  and  writing  in  tlieir  own  language, 
and  are  better  instructed  than  the  Canadian  inhabi- 
tants of  the  country  of  the  lower  ranks :  but  notwith- 
standing these  advtuitages,  and  though  the  establish- 
ment is  neaVly  coeval  with  the  colonization  of  the 
country,  they  do  not  advance  towards  a  state  of  civili- 
zation, but  retain  their  ancient  habits,  language,  and 
customs,  and  are  becoming  every  day  more  depraved^ 
indigent,  and  insignificant.  The  country  around  them^ 
though  very  capable  of  cultivation,  presents  only  a  few 
miserable  patches  of  ground,  sown  by  the  women  with 
maize  and  vegetables.  During  the  winter  season,  they 
leave  their  habitations,  and  pious  pastors,  to  follow  the 
chace,  according  to  the  custom  of  their  forefathers. 
Such  is,  indeed,  the  state  of  all  the  villages  near  the 
cultivated  parts  of  Canada.  But. we  shall,  now  leave 
them  to  proceed  on  our  voyage. 

At  the  end  of  the  lake  the  water  contracts  into  the 
Utawas  river,  which  after  a  course  of  fiteen  miles,  is 
interrupted  by  a  succession  of  rapids  and  cascades  for 
upwards  of  ten  miles ;  at  the  foot  of  which,  the  Cana* 
dijln  seignoires  terminate  ;  and  all,,  above  them  waste 
land,  till  the  conclusion  of  the  American  war,  when 
they  were  surveyed  by  order  of  government,  and 
granted  to  the  officers  and  men  of  the  eighty -fourth 
regiment,  when  reduced  ;  but  principally  to  the  for- 
mer, and  consequently  little  inhabited,  thou gli  very 
capable  of  cuUivation* 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade.  33 

The  voyagers  are  frequently  o\)Hged  to   inload  their 
jtanues,  and  carry  the  goods  up6n  their  bucks,  or  la- 
|ther  suspended  in  slings  from  their  heads.   Each  man's 
j ordinary   load  is  two  packages,    though   some  carry 
[tlirec.     Here  the   canoe  is  towed   by   a  strong  line. 
iTIiere  arc  some  places  where  the  ground  will  not  ad- 
jniit  of  their  carrying  the  whcjie  ;  they  then  make  two 
trips,  that  is,   leave  half  their  hiding,  and  go  and  land 
it  at  the  distance  required;  and  then  return  for  that 
[which  was  left.     In  this  distince  are  three  carry ing- 
i  places,  the  length  of  which  depends  in  a  great  mea- 
jsure  upon  the  state  of  the  water,  whether  higher  or 
lower;  from  the  lastof  these,  the  river  ia  about  a  tnile 
land  an  half  wide,  and  has  a  regular  current  for  about 
|»ixty  miles,  when  it  ends  at  the  first  Portage  de  Chau- 
lier,  where  the  body  of  water  falls  twenty-five  feet, 
»ver  cragged,  excavated  rocks,  in  a  most  wild,  roman- 
tic manner.     At  a  small  distance  below,  the  river  Ri- 
le au  on  the  left,  falling  over  a  perpendicular  rock,  near  . 
forty  feet  high,  in  one  sheet,  assuming  the  appearance 
>f  a  curtain  ;  and  from  which  circumstance  it  derives 
its  name.     To  this  extent  the  lands  have  been  survey- 
fed,  as  before  observed,  and  are  very  fit  for  culture^ 
Many  loyalists  are  settled  upon  the  river  Rideau,  and 
have,  I  am  told,  thriving  plantations.     Some  Ameri- 
can families,  preferring  the  British  territory,  have  al- 
so established  themselves  along  a  river  on  the  opposite 
side,  where  the  soil  is  excellent.     Nor  do  I  think  the 
pel  iod  is  far  distant,  when  the  lands  will  begorae  set- 
tled from  this  vicinity  to  Montreal.  t 

Over  this  portage,  which  is  six  hundred  and  forty- 
three  paces  long,  the  canoe  and  all  the  lading  is  carried. 
The  rock  is  so  steep  and  difficult  of  access,  that  it  re- 
quires twelve  men  to  take  the  canoe  out  of  the  water; 
it  is  then  carried  by  six  men,  two  at  each  end  on  the 
same  side,  and  two  under  the  opposite  gunwale  in  the 
middle.  From  hence  to  the  next  is  but  a  short  dis- 
tance, in  which  they  make  two  trips  to  the  second  Por- 
tage de  Chaudiere,  which  is  seven  hundred  paces,  to 
carry  the  lading  alone.  From  hence  to  the  next  and 
last  Chaudiere,  or  Portage  de«  Chencs  is  ajjout  sij^ 


34  General  Niit$rij  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


1;  If 

t  9'' 


\^\ 


miles,  with  »  very  «rtoi>f{ current)  where  the  goods  are 
carried  sewn  hundred  and  forty  paces;  the  canac  bev 
ingf  towed  up  by  the  line,  when  the  water  is  not  very 
high.  We  now  ent«r  Lac  dcs  Chaudicres,  which  h 
computed  to  btt  thirty  miles  in  length.  Though  it  is 
called  a  lake,  there  is  a  strong  draught  downwards,  and 
its  breadth  is  from  two  to  fbiir  miles.  At  the  end  of 
thisis  the  Portage  des  Chats,  over  which  the  canoe  and 
lading  arc  carried  two  hundred  and  seventy-four  pa- 
ces ;  and  very  diflicuU  it  is  for  the  former.  TItc  li- 
ver is  here  barred  by  a  ridge  of  black  rocks,  rising 
in  pinnacles  and  covered  with  wood,  which,  from  the 
smaU  quantity  of  soil  t+iat-  nourishes,  it,  is  low  and 
stinted,  riitj  river  fif!>d»' its  way  over  and  through  these 
rocks,  m  nuiiierous  channeis,  falling  fifteen  feet  and 
upwards*  Fram  hence  two  trips  are  made  through 
a  seri>eattne  ch^inel,  formed  by  the  rocks,  for  several 
miles,  when  the  current  slackens,  and  is  ac'^>rdingly 
called  the  Lake  des  Chats.  At  the  channtij  of  the 
gramV  Calumet^  which  are  computed  to  be  at  the  dis- 
tance of  eighteen  miles,  the  current  recovers  its  strength, 
and  proceed*  to  the  iWtage  Dufortj  which  is  two  hun^- 
dr«d  and  forty-five  paces  long;  over  which  the  canoe 
and  baggage  are  transported.  From  hence  the  current 
becameft  more  rapid,  and  re<)uires  two  trips  to  the  De- 
charge  des  Sables,  **  were  the  goods  are  carried  one  jtuu- 
dredand  thirty-five  paces,  and  the  canoe  towed.  Then 
follows  the  R^untain  Portage,  were  the  canoe  and  Iqid- 
ing  ai'ealso  carried  three  hundi*ed  and  eighty-five  paces; 
then  to  the  Dtcharge  of  the  Derige,  where  the  goods 
are  carried  two  hundred  and  fifty  paces  ;  and  thence 
to  the  grand  Calumet.  This  is  the  longest  can'ying- 
place  in  the  river,  and  is  about  two  thousand  and  thir- 
ty-five paces.  It  is  a  high  hill  or  mountain.  From 
the  upper  part  of  this  Portage  the  current  is  steady, 
and  is  only  a  branch  of  the  Utawas  River,  which  joins 
the  main  channel,  that  keeps  a  more  southern  course, 
at  the  distance  of  twelve  corai>uted  leagues.  Six.  lea- 
gues further  it  forma  Lake  Coulonge,  v/hich  is  about 

♦  The  place  were  the  goods  alone  are  carried,  ;s  called  a  Decharget  and  that  wh^rc 
(Otxin  and  caQ«M:»  mc  butb  truntpurted  ov«rliH)d)  is  dcnwmiuitloU'a  i'wVajA 


General  ffittory  of  the  Tur  Trade, 


35 


four  leagues  in  length :  from  thence  it  proceeds  thfoligli 
the  channeltt  of  the  Allumcttes  to  the  Dechargey  where 
part  of  the  lading  ii  taken  ont)  and  carried  three  hun* 
drcd  and  forty-iwo  paces.     Then  Hucceeds  the  Porlivg<c 
dcs  AlluinetteS)  which  is  but  twenty-five  paces,  over  u 
rock  difficult  of  access,  and  but  a  very  short  distance 
from  the  Dccharge.     From  Portage  de  Chenes  to  this 
spot,  is  a  fine  deer-hunting  country,  and  the   land  in 
many  parts  very  fit  for  cultivation.     From  hence  the 
river  spreads  wide,  and  is  full  of  islands,  with  some 
current  for  seven  leagues,  to  the  beginning  of  Uiviere 
Creuse,  or  Deep  River,  which  runs  in  the  form  of  a  ca- 
nal, about  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  for  about  thirty-six 
miles ;  bounded  upon  the  north  by  very  high   rocks, 
with  low  land  on  the  south,  and  sandy  ;  it  is  intercepted 
again  by  falls  and  cataracts,  so  that  the  Portages  of  the 
Itwo  Joachins  almost  join*     The  first  is  nine  hundred 
land  twenty-six  paces,  the  next  seven  hundred  and 
twenty,   and   both  very  bad  roads*    From  hence  it 
[is  a  steady  current  of  nine  miles  to  the  River  du  Moine, 
[where  there  has  generally  been  a  trading-house  ;  the 
I  stream  then  becomes  strong  for  four  leagues,  when  a 
rapid  succeeds  which  requires  two  trips.     A  little  way 
onward  is  the   i)echarge;  and  close  to  it  the  Portage 
[of  the  Roche  Capitaine,  seven  hundred  and  ninety-se- 
en paces  in  length.     From  hence  two  trips  are  made 
[through  a  narrow  channel  of  the  Roche  Capitaine,  made 
[by  an  island  four  miles  in  length.     A  strong  current 
Jnow  succeetts,  for  about  six  leagues  to  the  Portage  of 
i  the  two  rivers,  which  is  about  eight  hundred  and  twenty 
[paces  ;  from  thence  it  is  three  leagues  lo  the  Decharge 
of  the  Trou,  which  is  three  hundred  paces.     Near  ad- 
joining is  the  rapid  of  Levellier ;  from  whence,  includ- 
ing the  rapids  of  Matawoen,  where  there  is  no  carry- 
ing-place,  it  is  about  thir  ty-six  miles  to  the  forks  of 
the  same   name ;  in    the    latitude   46|.   north,  and 
longitude  781.   -west,  and  is  at  the     computed    dis- 
tance of  four  hundred  miles  from  Montreal.     At  this 
place  the  Petite  Riviere  falls  into  the  Utawas.     The 
latter  comes  from  a  north-westerly  direction,  form- 
ing sever?.!  lakes  in  its  course.    Th<e  prmcipal  (k  them 


■  i 


h     I 


ili 


m 


I'l 


46  Gtueral  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 

is  lake  Temescamang,  were  there  has  always  been  a 
trading  post,  which  may  be  said  to  continue,  by  a  suc- 
cession of  rivers  and  lakes,  upwards  of  fifty  leagues 
from  the  Forks,  passing  near  the  waters  of  the  Lake  Ab- 
bitiby,  in  latitude  48^.  which  is  received  by  the  Moose 
River,  that  empties  itself  into  James  Bay. 

The  Petite  Riviere  takes  a  south-west  direction,  is 
full  of  rapids  and  cataracts  to  its  source,  and  is  not  more 
than  fifteen  leagues  in  length,  in  the  course  of  which 
are  the  following  interruptions — The  Portage  of  Plein 
Champ,  three  hundred  and  nineteen  paces ;  the  De- 
charge  of  the  Rose,  one  hundred  and  forty-five  paces; 
the  Decharge  of  Campion,  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
four  paces ;  the  Portage  of  the  Grosse  Roche,  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  paces  ;  the  Portage  of  Paresseux,  four 
hundred  and  two  paces  ;  the  Portage  of  Priarie,  two 
hundred  and  eighty-seven  paces ;  the  Portage  of  La 
Cave,  one  nundred  paces;  Portage  of  Talon,  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  paces  ;  which,  for  its  length,  is 
the  worst  on  the  communication;  Portage  Pin  de 
Musique,  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  paces;  next  to  this 
is  Maiivis  de  Musique,  were  many  men  have  been 
crushed  to  death  by  the  canoes,  and  others  have  re- 
ceived irrecoverable  injuries.  The  last  in  this  river 
is  the  Turtle  Portage,  eighty-three  paces,  on  entering 
the  lake  of  that  name,  where,  indeed,  the  river  may  be 
said  to  take  its  source.  At  the  first  vase  from  whence 
to  the  great  river,  the  country  has  the  appearance  of 
having  been  over-run  by  fire,  and  consists  in  general 
of  huge  rocky  hills.  The  distance  of  this  Portage, 
which  is  the  height  of  land,  between  the  wacers  of  the 
St,  Laurence  and  the  Utawas,  is  one  thousand  five  hun- 
dred and  thirteen  paces  to  a  small  canal  in  a  plain, 
that  is  just  sufficient  to  carry  the  loaded  canoe  about 
one  mile  to  the  next  vase,  which  is  seven  t<undred  and 
twenty-five  paces.  It  would  be  tw4ce  this  distance, 
but  the  narrow  creek  is  dammed  in  thebeaver  fashion,  to 
float  the  canoes  to  this  barrier,  through  which  they  pass, 
when  the  river  is  just  sufficient  to  bear  them  through 
a  swamp  of  two  miles  to  the  last  vase,  of  one  thou- 
sand *nd  twenty-four  paces  in  length.     Though  the 


General  History  of  the  Fuf  Trade, 


37 


river  is  increased  in  this  part,  some  care  is  necessary 
to  avoid  rocks  and  stumps  of  trees.  In  about  six  miles 
is  the  lake  Nepisingui,  which  is  computed  to  be  twelve 
leagues  long,  though  the  route  of  the  canoes  is  some- 
thing more  :  it  is  about  fifteen  miles  wide  in  the  wi- 
dest part,  and  bounded  with  rocks.  Its  inhabitants 
consist  of  the  remainder  of  a  numerous  converted  tribe, 
called  Nepisinguis  of  the  Algonquin  nation.  Out  of 
it  flows  the  Riviere  des  Francois,  over  rocks  of  a  consi- 
derable height.  In  a  bay  to  the  east  of  this,  the  road 
leads  over  the  Portage  of  the  Chaudiere  des  Fr^m^ojs, 
five  hundred  and  forty-four  paces,  to  still  water.  It 
must  have  acquired  the  name  of  Kettle,  from  a  great 
number  of  holes  in  the  solid  rock  of  a  cylindrical  forin, 
and  not  unlike  that  culinary  utensil.  Th^y  are  obser* 
vable  in  many  parts  along  strong  bodies  of  water,  and 
where,  at  certain  seasons,  and  distinct  periods,  it  is  well 
known  the  water  inundates  ;  at  the  bottom  of  them  are 
generally  found  a  number  of  small  stones  and  peb- 
bles. This  circumstance  justifies  the  conclusion,  that 
at  some  former  period  these  rocks  formed  the  bed  of 
a  branch  of  the*  discharge  of  this  lake,  although  some 
of  them  are  upwards  of  ten  feet  above  the  present  level 
of  the  water  at  its  greatest  height.  They  are,  indeed, 
to  be  seen  along  every  great  river  throughout  this  wid? 
extended  country.  The  French  river  is  very  irrpgu*- 
lar,  both  as  to  itsbreadth  and  form,  and  is  so  ipterspers-. 
ed  with  islands,  that  in  the  whole  course  of  it  the 
banks  are  seldom  visible.  Of  its  various  channels, 
that  which  is  generally  followed  by  the  canoes  is  obi- 
structed  by  the  following  Portages,  viz.  des  Pins,  fifty- 
two  paces  ;  FeausUle,  thirty^six  paces  i  Parisienne,  one 
hundred  panes  ;  Recolet,  forty-five  paces  ;  and  the  Petite 
Feausille,  twenty-five  paces.  In  several  parts  there 
are  guts  or  channels,  where  the  water  flows  with  great 
velocity,  wiiich  arc  not  more  than  twice  the  breadth 
of  a  canoe.  The  distance  of  Lake  Huion  is  stimated 
at  twenty -five  leagues,  which  this  river  cuttrs  in  the 
latitude  43.  53.  north,  that  is,  at  the  point  of  land  three 
or  four  miles  within  the  lake.  There  is  hardly  a  foot 
of  soil  to  be  seen  from  one  end  of  the  French  river  to 

D 


38  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 

the  other,  its  banks  consisting  of  hills  of  entire  rock, 
The  coast  of  the  lake  is  the  same  but  lower,  backed 
at  some  distance  by  high  lands.  The  course  runs 
through  numerous  islands  to  the  north  of  west  to  the 
river  Tessalon,  computed  to  be  about  fifty  leagues  from 
the  French  river,  and  which  1  found  to  be  in  latitude 
46.  12.  21.  north;  and  from  thence  crossing,  from 
island  to  island,  the  arm  of  the  lake  that  receives  the  wa- 
ter of  Lake  Superior  (which  continues  the  same  course) 
the  route  changes  to  the  south  of  west  ten  leagues  to 
the  Detour  passmgthe  end  of  the  island  of  St.  Joseph, 
within  six  miles  of  the  former  place.  On  that  island 
there  has  been  a  military  establishment  since  the  up- 
per posts  were  given  up  to  the  Americans  in  the  year 
1T94  ;  and  is  the  westeniiost  military  position  which 
we  have  in  this  country.  It  is  a  place  of  no  trade* 
and  the  greater  part,  if  not  the  whole  of  the  Indians, 
come  here  for  no  otherpurpose  butto  receive  the  presents 
which  our  government  annually  allows  them.  They  are 
from  the  American  territory  (except  about  thirty  fa- 
milies, who  ai'e  the  inhabitants  of  the  lake  from  the 
French  river,  and  of  the  Algonquin  nation)  and  trade 
in  their  peltries,  as  they  used  formerly  to  do  at  Michili- 
makinac,  but  principally  with  the  British  subjects. 
The  Americans  pay  them  very  little  attention,  and  tell 
them  that  they  keep  possession  of  their  country  by  right 
of  conquest:  that,  as  their  brothers,  4hey  will  be  friends 
with  them  while  they  deserve  it ;  and  that  their  tra- 
ders will  bring  them  every  kind  of  gdods  they  require, 
which!  they  may  procure  by  their  industry. 

Our  commanders  treat  tliem  in  a  very  different  ftian^ 
ner,  and,  under  the  character  of  the  representatives  of 
their  father  j  (which  parental  title  the  natives  give  to 
his  present  Majesty,  the  connmon  father  of  all  his  peo- 
ple) present  them  with  such  things  as  the  actual  state 
df  their  stores  will  allow. 

How  far  this  conduct,  if  continued,  may,  at  a  fu- 
ture exigency,  keep  these  people  in  our  interest,  if 
they  are  even  worthy  of  it,  is  not  an  object  of  my  pre- 
sent consideration :  at  the  same  lime,  I  cannot  avoid 
expressing  iny  perfect  conviction,  that  it  would  not  be 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


39 


of  the  least  advantage  to  our  present  or  future  com- 
merce in  that  country,  or  to  the  people  themselves ;  as 
it  only  tends  to  keep  many  of  them  in  a  iState  of  idle- 
ness about  our  military  establishments.  The  ammu- 
nition which  they  receive  is  employed  to  kill  game,  in 
oi'der  to  procure  rum  in  return,  though  their  families 
may  be  in  a  starving  condition  :  hence  it  is,  that,  in 
consequence  of  slothful  and  dissolute  lives,  their  num- 
bers are  in  a  very  perceptible  state  of  dimunition* 

From  the  Detour  to  the  island  of  Michilimackinac, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  lakes  Huron  and  Michigan,  in 
latitude  45.  54.  north,  is  about  forty  miles.     To  keep 
the  direct  course  to  Lake  Superior,  the  north  shore 
from  the  river  Tessalon,  should  be  followed ;  crossing  to 
the  north-west  end  of  St.  Joseph,  and  passing  between 
it  and  the  adjacent  islands,  which  makes  a  distance  of 
fifty  miles  to  the  fall  of  St.  Mary,  at  the  foot  of  which, 
upon  the  south  shore,  there  is  a  village,  formerly  a  place 
of  great  resort  for  the  inhabitants  of  Lake  Superior, 
and  consequently   of    considerable  trade  :   it  is  now 
however,  dwindled  to  nothing,  and  reduced  to  about 
^  thirty  families,   of   the  Algonquin  nation,  who    are 
"^cne  half  of  the  year  starving,  and  the  other  half  in- 
toxicated, and  ten  or  twelve  Canadians,  who  have  been 
in  -be  Indian  country  from  an  early  period  of  life,  and 
intermarried  with  the  ns^tives,  who  have  brought  them 
iamilies.    Their  inducement  to  settle  there,  was  the 
great  quantity  of  white  fish  that  are  to  be  taken  in  and 
about  the  falls,  with  -very  little  trouble,  particularly  in 
the   autumn,   when   that  fish  leaves   the   lakes,   and 
comes  to  the  running  and  shallow  waters  to  spawn. 
These,  when  salt  can  be  procured,  arc  pickled  just  as 
the  frost  sets  in,  and  prove  very  good  food  with  pota- 
toes, which  they  have  of  late  cultivated  with  success. 
The  natives  live  chiefly  on  this  fish,  which  they  hang 
up  by  the  tails,   and  preserve  throughout  the  winter* 
or  at  least  as  long  they  last;   for  whatever  quanti- 
tf   they    may   have  taken,   it  is   never  known   that 
their  ecdnomy  is  such  as  to  make  them  last  through 
the  winter,  which  renders  their  situation  very  distress- 
ing 'f  for  if  they  had  activity  suflBicient  to  pursue  tlie 


A^         General  liistory  of  the  Tur  Ttade. 


labours  of  the  chace,  the  woods  are  become  so  bat*-* 
ren  of  game  as  to  afford  them  no  great  prospect  of 
relief*  In  the  spring  of  the  year  they,  and  the  other 
inhabitants,  make  a  quantity  of  sugar  from  the  ma- 
ple tree,  which  they  exchange  with  the  traders  for  ne- 
cessary articles,  or  carry  it  to  Michilimakinac,  where 
they  expect  a  better  price.  One  of  these  traders  was 
figent  for  the  North- VV'est  Company,  receiving,  stor- 
ing, and  forwarding  such  articles  as  come  by  the  way 
of  the  lakes  upon  their  vessels  :  for  it  is  to  be  observ- 
ed, that  a  quantity  of  their  goods  are  sent  by  that  route 
from  Montreal  in  boats  to  Kingston,  at  the  entrance 
of  Lake  Ontario,  and  from  thence  in  vessels  to  Niagara, 
then  over  land  ten  miles  to  a  water  communication,  by 
boats,  to  Lake  Erie,  where  they  are  again  received  in- 
to vessels,  and  carried  over  that  lake  up  the  river  De- 
troit, through  the  lake  and  river  Sinclair,  to  Lake  Hu- 
ron, and  from  thence  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Mary's,  when 
they  are  again  landed  and  carried  for  a  mile  above  the 
falls,  and  shipped  over  Lake  Superior  to  the  Grande 
Portage*  This  is  found  to  be  a  less  expensive  method 
than  by  canoes,  but  attended  with  more  'sk,  and  re- 
quiring more  time,  than  one  short  season  of  this  coun- 
try will  admit ;  for  the  goods  are  always  sent  frortl 
Montreal  the  preceding  fall ;  and  besides,  the  compa- 
ny get  their  provisions  from'  Detroit,  as  flour  and  In- 
dian corn  ;  as  also  considerable  supplies  from  Michili- 
makinac of  maple  sugar,  tallow,  gum.  Sec.  &c. 

For  the  purpose  of  conveying  all  these  things,  they 
have  two  vessels  upon  the  Lakes  Erie  and  Huron,  and 
one  on  Lake  Superior,  of  from  fifty  to  seventy  tons 
burthen.  This  being,  therefore,  the  depot  for  trans- 
ports, the  Montreal  canoes  on  their  arrival,  were  for- 
wardedover  Lake  Superior,  with  only  five  men  in  each ; 
the  others  were  sent  to  Michilimakinac  for  additional' 
canoes,  which  were  required  to  jy»secute  the  trade, 
and  then  take  a  lading  there,  or  at*St.  Mary's,  and 
follow  the  others. ,  At  length  they  all  arrive  at  tne 
Grande  Portage,  which  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  leagues 
from  St.  Mary's,  coastways,  and  situated  on  a  plea- 
sant bay  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake,  in  latitude  48» 


Gmeral  lilstory  of  the  Fur  Trade*  41 


north,  and  longitude  90.  west  from  Greenwich,  where^ 

the  compass  has  not  above  five  degrees  east  variation* 

At  the  entrance  ofthe  bay,  is  an  island,  which  screens 

Ithe  harbor  from  every  wind  except  the  southt     TH(6i 

shallowness  ofthe  water,  however,  renders  it  necessa- 

iry  for  the  vessel  to  anchor  near  a  mile  from  the  shore, 

[where  there  is  not  more  than  fourteen  feet  water.  This 

[lake  justifies  the  name  that  has  been  given  to  it :  the 

[Falls  of  St»  Mary,  which,  in  its  northern  extremityi' 

[being  in  latitude  46.  31.  north,  and  in  longitude  84. 

[west,  where  there  is  no  variation  ofthe  compass  what- 

lever.  While  its  southern  extremity,  at  the  River  St. 

[Louis,  is  in  latitude  46.  A5,noiy.\  and  longitude  93. 10. 

[west :  its  greatest  breadth  li  one  hundreu  and  twenty 

[miles,   and  its   circumference,  including  its  variouft 

>ays,  is  not  less  than  one  thousand  two  hundred  miles* 

klong  its  north  shore  is  the  safest  navigation,  as  it  is 

continued  mountainous  r  nbankment  of  rock,  from 

three  hundred  to  one  thou    ^nd  five  hundred  feet   in 

leight.    There  are  numerous  coves  and  sandy  bays  to 

land,  which  are  frequently  sheltered  by  the  islands 

from  the  swell  of  the  lake.     This  is  particularly  the 

:ase  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  miles  to  the  east^ 

[ward  of  the  Grande  Portage,  and  is  called  the  Pays 

{Plat.  -' 

This  seems  to  have  been  caused  by  some  convul- 
[sion  of  nature,  for  many  ot  the  islands  display  a  com- 
[position  of  lava,  intermixed  with  round  stones  of  the 
size  of  a  pigeon's  egg.  The  surrounding  rock  is  ge- 
nerally hard,  and  of  a  daik  blue-grey,  though  it  fre- 
qjently  has  the  appearance  of  iron  and  copper.  The 
south  side  of  the  lake,  fi'om  Point  Shagoimigo  east,  is 
always  a  continual  straight  line  of  a  sandy  beach,  in- 
terspersed with  rocky  precipices  of  lime-stones^ 
sometimes  rising  to  an  hundred  feet  in  height,  with- 
out a  bay.  The  embankments  from  that  point  west- 
ward are,  in  general,  of  strong  clay,  mixed  with  stones, 
which-renders  the  navigation  irksome  and  dangerous. 
On  the  same  side,  at  the  River  Tonnagon,  is  found  a 
quantity  of  virgin  copper.  The  Americans,  soon  af- 
ter thej  got  possession  of  that  country,  sent  an  chgi- 

D2 


f 


4/^  Gensral  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


nccr  thither  ;  and  I  should  not  be  surprized  to  hear  of 
their  employing  people  to  work  the  mine.  Indeed,  it 
might  be  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  British  sub- 
jects to  work  the  mines  on  the  north  coast,  though  they 
are  not  supposed  to  be  so  rich  as  those  on  the  south. 

Lake  Superior  is  the  largest  and  most  magnificent 
body  of  fresh  water  in  the  workl ;  it  is  clear  and  pel- 
lucid, of  great  depth,  and  abounding  in  a  great  variety 
of  fish,  which  are  the  most  excellent  of  their  kind. 
There  are  trouts  of  three  kinds,  weighing  from  five  to 
fifty  pounds,  sturgeon,  pickerel,  pike,  red  and  white 
carp,  black  bass,  herrings,  Sec.  Sec.  and  the  last  and  best 
of  all,  the  Ticamang,  or  white  fish,  which  weighs  from 
four  to  sixteen  ]^ounds,  and  is  of  a  superior  quality, 
'in  these  waters. 

.  This  lake  may  be  denominated  the  grancl  reservoir  of 
the  River  S|.  Laurence,  as  no  considerable  rivers  dis- 
charge themselves  into  it.  The  principal  ones  are,  the 
^t.  Louis,  the  Nipigon,the  Pit,  and  the  Michipicoten. 
indeed,  the  extent  of  country  from  which  any  of  tliem 
llow,  or  take  th^ir  course  in  any  direction,  cannot  ad- 
mit of  it,  in  consequence  of  the  ridge  of  land  that  se» 
parates  them  from  the  rivers  that  empty  themselves 
into  Hudson's  Bay,  the  gulph  of  Mexico,  and  the  wa- 
ters that  fall  into  Lake  Michigan,  Vhich  afterwards  be- 
come a  part  of  the  St.  Laurence. 

This  vast  collection  of  Water  is  often  covered  with 
fog,  ^particularly  when  the  wind  is  from  the  east, 
vhich,  driving  against  the  high  barren  rocks  on 
the  north  and  west  shore,  dissolves  in  torrents  of 
rain.  It  is  very  generally  said,  that  the  storms  on  this 
l£^e,  are  denoied  by  a  swell  on  the  preceding  day; 
but  this  circumstance  did  not  appear  from  my  obser- 
vation to  be  a  regular  phenomenon,  as  the  swells  more 
frequently  subsided  without  any  subsequent  wind. 
.  Along  the  surrounding  rocks  of  this  immense  lake^ 
^vident  marks  appear  of  the  decrease  of  its  water,  by 
the  lines  observable  along  them.  The  space,  however^ 
between  the  highest  and  the  lowest,  is  not  so  great  as 
in  the  smaller  lakes,  as  it  does  not  amount  to  more 
'Uian  six.  feet,  the  former  beitig  very  faint. 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade.  4S 

The  inhabitants  that  arc  found  along  the  coast  dhhis 
water,  are  all  of  the  Algonquin  nation,  the  whole  of 
v/hich  do  not  exceed  1 50  families.* 

These  people  live  chiefly  on  fish  ;  indeed,  from  what 
has  been  said  of  the  country,  it  cannot  be  expected  to 
abound  in  animals,  as  it  is  totally  destitute  of  that  shel- 
ter, which  is  so  necessary  to  them.  The  rocks  ap- 
pear to  have  been  over-run  by  fire,  and  the  stinted 
timber,  which  once  grew  there,  is  frequently  seen 
lying  along  the  surface  of  them  :  but  it  is  not  easy  to 
be  reconciled,  that  any  thing  should  grow  where  theixj 
is  so  little  appearance  of  soil.  Between  the  fallen 
trees  there  are  briars,  with  hurtleberry  and  gooseber- 
ry bushes,  raspberries,  8tc.  which  invite  the  bears  in 
greater  or  lesser  numbers,  as  they  are  a  favorite  food  of 
that  animal :  beyond  these  rocky  banks  arc  found  a  few 
moose  and  fallow  deer.  The  waters  alone  are  abun- 
dantly inhabited. 

A  very  curious  phenomenon  was  observed  some  years 
ago  at  the  Grande  Portage,  for  which  no  obvious  cause 
could  be  assigned.  The  water  withdrew  with  great  preci- 
tation,  leaving  the  ground  dry  that  Jiad  never  before 
been  visible,  the  fall  being  equal  to  four  perpendicular 
feet,  and  rushing  back  with  great  Velocity  above  the 
common  mark.  It  continued  thus  falling  and  rising 
for  several  hours,  gradually  decreasing  until  it  stop- 
ped at  its  usual  height.  There  is  frequently  an  irre- 
gular influx  and  deflux,  which  does  not  exceed  ten 
inches,  and  is  attributed  to  the  wind. 

The  bottom  of  the  bay,  which  formS'an  amphithea- 
tre, is  cleared  of  wood,  and  inclosed ;  and  On  the  left 
'^orner  of  it,  beneath  an  hill,  three  or  four  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  crowned  by  others  of  a  still  greater 
altitude,  is  the  fort,  picketed  in  with  cedar  ballisa- 
<locs,  and  inclosing  houses  built  with  wood  and  covered 
with  shingles.  They  are  calculated  for  every  eonve- 
«ience  of  trade,  as  well  as  to  accommodate  the  pro- 

*  In  the  year  1668,  when  the  first  missionaries  visited  die  soutfi  of  this  lake,  tiicf 
found  tlie  country  full  of  inhabitants.  Tb./ relate,  that  about  tliis  time  a  band  yf 
the  Ne|)isin.Tiies,  who  were  converted,  eui^rited  to  the  NipigoA  country,  which  i« 
to  the  north  of  Lake  Superior.  Few  of  their  descendants  are  now  remaining,  and 
«0t  a  trace  of  li-.e  xeligioa  communicated  to  tliem  is  to  be  discovereii. 


44     ^    General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 

prietors  and  clerks  during  their  short  residence  tli«re. 
The  North  men  live  under  tents ;  but,  the  more  fru-  , 
gal  pork-eater  lodges  beneath  his  canoe.  The  soil  im- 
mediately bordering  on  the  lake  has  not  proved  very 
propitious,  as  nothing  but  potatoes  have  been  found  to 
answer  the  tmuble  of  cultivation.  This  circumstance 
is  probably  owing  to  the  cold  damp  fogs  of  the  lake, 
and  t|ie  moisture  of  the  ground  from  the  springs  that 
issuei'rom  beneath  the  hills.  There  are  meadows  in  the 
vicinity  that  yield  abundance  of  hay  for  the  cattle; 
but,  as  to  agriculture,  it  has  not  hitherto  been  an  ob- 
ject of  serious  consideration, 

I  shall  now  leave  these  geographical  notices,  to  give 
some  further  account  of  the  people  from  Montreal. 
When  they  arrived  at  the  Grande  Portage,  which  is  near 
nine  miles  over,  each  of  them  has  to  carry  eight  packages 
of  such  goods  and  provisions  as  are  necessary  for  the  in- 
terior country".  This  is  a  labor  which  cattle  cannot  con- 
veniently perform  in  summer,  as  both  horses  and  oxen 
were  tried  by  the  company  without  success.  They  are 
only  useful  for  light,  bulky  articles ;  or  for  transport- 
ing upon  sledges,  during  the  winter,  whatever  goods 
may  remain  there,  especially  provision^  of  which  it  is 
usual  to  have  a  year's  stock  on  hand. 

Having  finished  this  toilsome  part  of  their  duty,  if 
more  goods  are  necessary  to  be  transported,  they  are 
allowed  a  Spanish  dollar  for  each  package  :  and  so  in- 
ured are  they  to  this  kind  of  labor,  that  1  have  known 
some  of  them  set  off  with  two  packages  of  ninety 
pounds  each,  and  return  with  two  others  of  the  same 
weight,  in  the  course  of  sist.  hours,  being  a  distance  of 
eighteen  miles  over  hills  and  mountains.  This  ne- 
cessary part  of  the  business  being  over,  if  the  season 
be  early  they  have  some  respite,  but  this  depends  upon 
the  time  the  North  men  begin  to  arrive  from  their 
winter  quarters,  which  they  commonly 'do  early  in  July. 
At  this  period,  it  is  necessary  to  select  from  the  pork- 
eaters  a  number  of  men,  among  whom  are  the  re- 
cruits, or  winterers,  sufficient  to  man  the  North  canoes 
necessary,  to  carry  to  the  river  of  the  rainy  lake,  the 
^oods  and  provision  requisite  for  the  Athabasca  coun- 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,         45 

li-y  ;  as  the  people  o(  that  country  (owing  to  the  short- 
ness of  the  season  and  length  of  the  road,  can  come 
no  further)  arc  equipped  there,  and  exchange  ladings 
with  the  people  of  whom  we  are  speaking,  and  both 
return  from  whence  they  came.  This  voyage  is  per- 
fortned  in  the  course  of  a  iHonth,  and  they  are  allowed 
proportionable  wages  for  their  services. 

The  North  men  being  arrivid  at  the  Grande  Portage, 
»re  regaled  -,»iiii  uread,  pork,  butter,  liquor,  and  tobac- 
co, and  mv,h  as  have  uct  ^-icered  into  agreements  dur- 
ing the  wi  Iter,  which  is  customary,  are  contracted  with, 
return  and  perform  the  voyage  for  one,  two,  or  three 
years :  their  accounts  are  also  settled,  and  such  as  choose 
to  send  any  of  their  earnings  to  Canada,  receive  drafts 
;to  transmit  to  their  relations  or  friends:  and  as  soon 
[as  they  can  be  got  ready,  which  requires  no  more  than 
a  fortnight,  they  are  again  dispatched  to  their  respect- 
ive departments.     It  is,  indeed,  very  creditable  to  them 
as  servants,  that  though  they  are  sometimes  assembled 
to  the  number  of  twelve  hundred  men,  indulging  them- 
jselves  in  the  free  use  of  liquor,  and  quarrelling  with 
leach  other,  they  always  show  the  greatest  respect  to 
I  their  employers,  who  are  comparatively  but  few  in  num- 
Iber,  and  beyond  the  aid  of  any  legal  power  to  enforce 
[due  obedience.     In  short,  a  degree  of  subordination  can 
[only  be  maintained  by  the  good  opinion  these  men  en- 
tertain of  their  employers,  which  has  been  uniformly 
[the  case,  since  the  trade  has  been  formed  and  conduct- 
ed on  a  regular  system. 

The  people  being  dispatched  to  their  respective 
winter  quarters,  the  agents  from  Montreal,  assisted  by 
their  clerks  prepare  to  return  there,  by  getting  the 
furs  across  the  Portage,  and  re-making  them  into 
packages  of  one  hundred  pounds  weight  each,  to  send 
them  to  Montreal ;  where  they  commonly  arrive  in  the 
month  of  September. 

The  mode  of  living  at  the  Grande  Portage,  is  as  fol- 
lows :  The  proprietors,  clerks,  guides,  and  interpre- 
ters, mess  together,  to  the  number  of  sometimes  an 
hundred,  at  several  tables,  in  one  large  hall,  the  provi- 
sion consisting  of  bread,  salt  pork,  beef,  hams,  fish,  and 


46  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


i'jti'l, 


venison,  butter,  peas,  Indian  com,  potatoes,  tea,  spirits, 
wine,  8cc«  and  plenty  of  milk,  for  which  purpose  sever- 
al milch  cows  are  constantly  kept.  The  mechanics 
have  rations  of  such  provision,  but  the  canoe-men,  both 
from  the  north  and  Montreal,  have  no  other  allowance 
here,  or  in  the  voyage,  than  Indian  corn  and  melied 
fat.  The  corn  for  this  purpose  is  prepared  before  it 
leaves  Detroit,  by  boiling  it  in  a  strong  alkali,  which 
takes  ofl*  the  outer  husk ;  it  is  then  well  washed,  and 
carefully  dried  upon  stages,  when  it  is  fit  for  use.  One 
quart  of  this  is  boiled  for  two  hours,  over  a  moderate 
fire,  in  a  gallon  of  water  ;  to  which,  when  it  has  boiled 
a  small  time,  are  added  two  ounces  of  melted  suet;  this 
causes  the  corn  to  split,  and  in  the  time  mentioned 
makes  a  pretty  thick  pudding.  If  to  this  is  added  a 
little  salt  (but  not  before  it  is  boiled,  as  it  would  inter- 
rupt the  ©Iteration)  it  makes  an  wholesome,  palatable 
food>  and  easy  of  digestion.  This  quantity  is  fully  suf- 
ficient for  a  man's  subsistence  during  twenty- four  hours; 
though  it  is  not  sufficiently  heartening  to  sustain  the 
strength  necessary  for  a  state  of  active  labor.  Tl^e 
Americans  call  this  dish  hominee.* 

The  trade  from  the  Grande  Portage,  is  in  some  par- 
ticulars, carried  on  in  a  different  manner  with  that  from 
lyiontreal.  The  canoes  used  in  the  latter  transport  are 
pow  too  large  for  the  former,  and  some  of  about  half  the 
size  are  procured  from  the  natives  ,and_are  navigated  by 
four,  five,  or  six  men,  according  to  the  distance  which 
they  have  to  go.  They  carry  a  lading  of  about  thirty- 
$ve  packages,  on  an  average ;  of  the&e  twenty-three 
are  for  the  purpose  of  trade,  and  the  rest  are  employ- 
ed for  provisions,  stores,  and  baggage.  In  each  of 
these  canoes  are  a  foreman  and  steersman  ;  the  one  to 
be  always  on  the  look  out,  and  direct  the  passage  of 
the  vessel,  and  the  other  to  attend  the  helm.  They 
also  carry  her,  whenever  that  office  is  necessary.  The 
foreman  has  the  command,  and  the  middleia^n 
obey  both ;  the  latter  earn  only  two-thirds  of  the  "Wr 
ges  which  are  paid  the  two  former.     Independent  of 

*  Corn  is  the  cheapest  provision  that  can  be  procured,  though  from  '-t  expense  of 
transport,  the  bushel  costs  about  twenty  shillings  sterling  at  Ibe  Crai)de  Portage.  A 
gian's  daily  allowance  does  «0t  exceed  ten  pence. 


Trade* 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


4^ 


:oes,  tea)  spirits, 
ti  purpose  sever- 
The  mechanics 
:anoe-men,  both 
other  allowance 
orn  and  mehed 
spared  before  it 
»g  alkali,  which 
ell  washed,  and 
it  for  use.  One 
)ver  a  moderate 
len  it  has  boiled 
nelted  suet ;  this 
time  mentioned 
)  this  is  added  a 
s  it  would  inter- 
:some,  palatable 
iitity  is  fully  suf- 
enty- four  hours; 
g  to  sustain  the 
^e  labor.      The 

I  is  in  some  par- 

;r  with  that  from 

er  transport  are 

of  about  half  the 

are  navigated  by 

e  distance  which 

of  about  thirty- 

Se  twenty-three 

est  are  employ- 

;e.     In  each  of 

nan  ;  the  one  to 

:  the  passage  of 

le  helm.    They 

Bcessary.     The 

le     middleia^>^n 

irds  of  the  ■>*?»• 

Independent  of 

igh  from  '^e  expense  of 
beGuqde  Portage.  A 


these,  a  conductor  or  pilot  is  appointed  to  every  four 
or  six  of  these  canoes,  whom  they  are  all  obliged  to 
obey ;  and  is,  or  at  least  is  intended  to  be,  a  person 
of  superior  experience,  for  which  he  is  proportiona- 
bly  paid. 

In  these  canoes,  thus  loaded,  they  embai'k  at  the 
North  side  of  the  portage,  on  the  river  Au  Tourt,  which 
i  is  very  inconsiderable  ;  and  after  about  two  miles  of  a 
westerly  course,  is  obstructed  by  the  partridge  Portage, 
six  hundred  paces  long.    In  the  spring  this  makes  a 
considerable  fall,  when  the  water  is  high,  over  a  per- 
[pendicular  rockof  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  From 
I  thence  the  tiver  continues  to  be  shallow,  and  requires 
I  great  care  to  prevent  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  from  be- 
ing injured   by   sharp  rocks,  for  a  distance  of  three 
[miles  and  an  half  to  the  Priarie,  or  Meadow,  when 
(half  the  lading  is  taken  out,  and  carried  by  part  of  the 
:rew,  while  two  of  them  -are  conducting  the  canoe 
[among  the  rocks,  with  the  remainder,  to  the  Carre- 
jboeuf  Portage,  three  miles  and  an  half  more,  when 
[they  unload  and  come  back  two  miles,  and  embark 
what  was  left  for  the  other  hands  to  carry,  which  they 
also  land  with  the  former  \  all  of  which  is  carried  six 
hundred  and  eighty    paces,  and   the    canoe    led   up 
iagainst  the  rapid.     From  h«nce  the  water   is  better 
(calculated  to  carry  canoes,    and  leads  by  a  winding 
Ipourse  to  the  north  of  west  three  miles  to'  the  Out- 
w^ard  Portage,  over  which   he  canoo,  and  every  thing 
in  her,  is  carried  for  two  thousand  four  hundred  paces. 
At  the  further  end  is   a  very    high  hill    to   descend, 
over  which  hangs  a  rock  upwi  rds  of  seven  hundred 
feet  high.     Then  succeeds  the  Outward  Lake,  about 
six  miles  long,  lying  in  a  north-west  course,  and  about 
two  miles  wide  in  the  broadest  part.     After   passing 
a  very  small  rivulet,    they  come   to  the  Elk  Portage,\ 
over  which  the  canoe  and  lading  are  again  carried  one 
thousand  one  hundred  and  twenty  paces  ;  when  they 
enter  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  which  is  an  hand- 
some piece  of  water,  running  north-west  about  four 
miles,  and  not  more  thai>  one  mile  and  ah  half  wide.* 

*  Here  is  a  mogt  excellent  fisherjr  for  wliite  fisb,  which  are  exquisite. 


48 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


They  then  land  at  the  Portage  de  Cerise,  over  whicbv 
and  in  the  f^ce  of  a  considerable  hill,  the  canoe  and 
cargo  are  again  transpoited  for  one  thousand  and  fifty 
paces.  This  is  only  separated  from  the  second  Port- 
age dc  Cerise,  by  a  mud-pond  (where  there  is  plenty 
of  water  lilies)  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length  ;  and 
this  is  again  separated  by  a  similar  pond,  from  the  last 
Portage  de  Cerise,  which  is  four  hundred  and  ten  paces. 
Here  the  same  operation  is  to  be  performed  for  three 
hundred  and  eighty  paces.  They  next  enter  on  the 
Mountain  Lake,  running  north-west  by  west  six  miles 
long,  and  about  lwo  miles  in  its  greatest  breadth.  In 
the  centre  of  this  lake,  and  to  the  right  is  the  Old 
Road,  by  which  I  never  passed  ;  but  an  adequate  no- 
tion may  be  formed  of  it  from  the  road  I  am  going  to 
describe,  and  which  is  universally  preferred.  This  is 
first,  the  small  new  portage  over  which  every  thing  is 
carried  for  six  hundred  and  twenty-six  paces,-  over 
hills  and  gullies  :  the  whole  is  then  embarked  on  a  nar- 
row line  of  water,  that  meanders  south-west  about  two 
miles  and  an  half.  It  is  necessary  to  unload  here,  for 
the  length  of  the  canoe,  and  then  proceed  west  half  a 
mile,  to  the  new  Grande  Portage,  which  is  three  thou^ 
sand  one  hundred  paces  in  length,  and  over  very  rough 
ground,  which  requires  the  utmost  exertions  of  the 
men,  anit^frequently  lames  them :  fro|n  hence  they  ap- 
proach the  Rose  Lake,  the  portage  of  that  name  be- 
ing opposite  to  the  junction  of  the  road  from  the 
Mountain  Lake.  They  then  embark  on  the  Rose 
Lake,'  about  one  mile  from  the  east  end  of  it,  and 
steer  west  by  south,  in  an  oblique  course,  across  it 
tv/o  miles  ;  then  west-north-west  passing  the  Petite 
Peche  to  the  Marten  Portage  three  miles.  In  this 
part  of  the  lake  the  bottom  is  mud  and  slime,  with 
about  three  or  four  feet  of  water  over  it;  and  here  I 
frequently  struck  a  canoe  pole  of  twelve  feet  long, 
without  meeting  any  other  obstruction  than  if  the 
whole  were  water  :  it  has,  however,  a  peculiar  suction 
or  attractive  power,  so  that  it  Is  difficult  to  paddle  a 
canoe  over  it.  There  is  a  small  space  along  the 
"south  shore,  where  the  water  isdeep^  and  this  effect  is 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,  49 

Rot  felt.  In  proportion  to  the  distance  from  this  part, 
the  suction  bccumes  more  powerful  :  1  have,  indeed, 
been  told  that  loaded  canoes  have  been  in  danger  of 
being  swallowed  up,  and  have  only  owed  their  preser* 
ration  to  other  canoes,  which  were  lighter.  I  have,  my- 
self, found  it  very  difficult  to  get  away  from  this  attrac- 
tive power,  with  six  men,  and  great  exertion,  though 
we  did  not  uppear  to  be  in  any  danger  of  sinking. 

Over  against  this  is  a  very  high,  rocky  ridge,  on  the 
south  side,  called  Marten  Portage,  which  is  but  twen- 
ty paces  long,  and  separated  from  the  Perche  Portage, 
which  is  four  hundred  and  eighty  paces,  by  a  mud- 
pond,  covered  with  white  lilies.  From  heilce  the  course 
is  on  the  lake  of  the  same  namef  -  we^t-south-west 
three  miles  to  the  height  of  land,  where  the  waters  of 
the  Dove  or  Pigeon  Riv  ■  terminate,  and  which  is  One 
of  the  sources  of  the  great  St.  Laurence  in  this  direction* 
Having  carried  the  canoe  and  lading  over  it,  six  hun- 
dred and  seventy-nine  paces,  they  embark  on  the  lake 
of  Hauteur  de  Teire,*  which  is  in  the  shape  of  an 
horse-shoe.  It  is  entered  near  the  curve,  and  left  at 
the  extremity  of  the  western  limb,  through  a  very 
shallow  channel,  where  the  canoe  passes  half  loaded 
for  thirty  paces  with  the  current,  which  conducts  these 
waters  through  the  succeeding  lakes  and  rivers,  and 
disembogues  itself,  by  the  river  Nelson,  into  Hudson's 
Bay.  The  first  of  these  is  Lac  de  Pierres  a  Fusil,  run- 
ning west-fsouth-west  seven  miles  long,  and  two  wide, 
and  making  an  angle  at  north-west  one  mile  more,  be- 
comes a  river  for  half  a  mile,  tumbling  over  a  rock, 
and  forming  a  fall  and  portage,  called  the  Escaller,  of 
fifty-five  paces  ;  but  from  hence  it  is  neither  lake  or 
river,  but  possesses, the  character  of  both,  and  runs  be- 
tween large  rocks, 'which  cause  a  current  or  rapid,  for 
about  two  miles  and  an  half,  west-north-west,  to  the 
portage  of  the  Chcval  du  Bois.  Here  the  canoe  and 
contents  are  carried  three  hundred  and  eighty  paces, 
between  rocks ;  and  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  is  the 

•  T»ve  route  which  we  have  been  travelling  hitherto,  leads  along  the  high  rockv 
*^"'^"',\'*°^?r.LakeSup"ioron  the  left,  'rhe  face  of  the  couni?y  offers  a  wiS 


scene  of  huge  hills  and  rocks,  separated  by  stony  vallies,  lakes,  and  ponds. 
wcrUiae  Is  tne  least  soil,  Uts  well  covered  witli  trees.  '        ^ 

£ 


Wlicre- 


:.:  il 


so  Qaneral  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 

Portage  ties  Gros  Pins,  which  is  six  hundred  and  for- 
ty paces  ovet  an  high  ridge.  The  opposite  side  of^t 
is  washed  by  a  small  lake  three  miles  round  j  the 
course  ia  through  the  east  end  or  side  of  it,  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  nortlit-east,  where  there  is  a  rapid. 
An  irregular,  meandering  channel,  between  rocky 
banks,  then  succeeds,  for  seven  miles  and  an  half, 
to  the  Maraboeuf  Lake,  which  extends  north  four 
miles,  and  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  termina- 
ting by  a  rapid  and  decharge,  of  one  hundred  and 
eighty  paces,  t!ie  rock  of  Saginaga  being  in  sight, 
>7hich  causes  a  fall  of  about  seven  feet,  and  a  portage 
tif  fifty-iive  paces. 

Lake  Saginaga  takes  its  name  from  its  numerous 
islands.  Its  greatest  length  from  east  to  west  is  about 
fourteen  miles,  with  very  irregular  inlets,  is  no  where 
more  thani  three  miles  wide,  and  terminates  at  the 
small  portage  of  La  Roche,  of  forty-three  paces.  From 
thence  is  a  rocky,  stony  passage  of  one  mile,  to  Pria- 
rie  Portage,  whlph  is  very  improperly  named,  as  there 
is  no  ground  about  it  that  answers  to  that  decription, 
except  a  small  spot  at  the  embarking  place  at  tlie  west 
cncl :  to  the  east  is  an  entire  bog  ;  and  it  is  with  great 
difiiculty  that  the  lading  can  be  landed  upon  stages, 
formed  by  driving  piles  into  the  mud,  ani  spreading 
branches  of  trees  over  them.  The  portage  rises  on  a 
stony  ridge,  over  which  the  canoe  and  cargo  must  be 
carried  for  six  hundred  and  eleven  paces.  This  is 
succeeded  by  an  embarkation  on  a  small  bay,  where 
the  bottom  is  the  same  as  has  been  described  in  the 
west  end  of  Rose  Lake,  and  it  is  with  great  difl&culty 
that  a  laden  caiioe  ij  worked  over  it,  but  it  does  not 
comprehend  more  than  a  distance  of  two  hundred 
yards.  From  hence  the  progress  continues  through 
irregular  channels,  bounded  by  rocks,  in  a  westerly 
course  for  about  five  miles,  to  the  little  Portage  des 
Couteaux,  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  paces,  and  the 
Lac  des  Couteaux,  running  about  south-west  by  west 
twelve  miles,  and  from  a  quarter  to  two  miles  wide. 
A  deep  bay  runs  east  three  miles  from  the  west  end, 
where  it  is  discharged  by  a  rapid  river,  and  after  run- 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade.  S 1 

ning  two  miles  west,  it  again  becomes  still  water.  In 
this  river  are  two  carrying-places,  the  one  fifteen,  and 
the  other  one  hundred  and  ninety  paces.  From  this 
to  the  Portage  des  Carpes  is  one  mile  north-west, 
leaving  a  narrow  lake  on  the  east  that  runs  parallel 
with  the  Lake  des  Couteaux,  half  its  length,  where 
th«re  is  a  carrying-place,  which  is  used  when  the  wa- 
ter in  the  river  last  mentioned  is  too  low.  The  Port- 
age des  Carpes  is  three  hundred  and  ninety  p^ces, 
horn  whence  the  water  spreads  irregularly  between 
rocks,  five  miles  north-west  and  south-east  to  the  por- 
tage of  Lac  Bois  Blanc,  which  is  one  hundred  and 
eighty  paces.  Then  follows  the  lake  of  that  name, 
but  1  think  improperly  so  called,  as  the  natives  name 
it  the  Lake  Passeau  Minac  Sagaigan,  or  Lake  of  Dry 
Berries. 

Before  the  small-pox  ravaged  this  country,  and  com- 
pleted what  the  Norwasis,  in  their  warfare,  had  gone 
I  far  to  accomplish,  the  destruction  of  its  inhabitants, 
I  the  population  was  very  numerous :  this  was  also  afa- 
ivorite  part,  where  they  mad«  their  canoes,  Sec.  the 
[lake  abounding  in  fish,  the  country  round  it  being 
[plentifully  supplied  with  various  kinds  of  game,  and 
[rocky  ridges  that  form  the  boundaries  of  the  water, 
[covered  with  a  variety  of  berries. 

When  the  French  were  in  p>ossession  of  this  coun- 
bry,  they   had  several  trading  establishments  on   the 
isUnds  and  banks  of  this  lake.     Since  that  period,  the 
[few  people  remaining,  who  were  of  the  Algonquin  na- 
tion, could  hardly  find  subsistence ;  game  having  be- 
Icome  so  scarce,  that  they  dependert  principally  for  food 
[upon  fish,  and  wild  rice  which  grows  spontaneously  in 
; these  parts. 

This  lake  is  irregular  in  its  form,  and  its  utmost  ex- 
tent from  east  to  west  is  fifteen  miles;  a  point  of  land, 
called  Point  au  Pin,  jutting  into  it,  divides  it  in  two 
parts :  it  then  makes  a  second  angle  at  the  west  end, 
to  the  lesser  Portage  de  Bois  Blanc,  two  hundred  pa- 
ces in  length.  This  channel  is  not  wide,  and  is  inter- 
cepted by  several  rapids  in  the  course  of  a  mile  :  it 
runs  west-north-west  to   the  Portage  des  Pins,  over 


53  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


i 


r  h 


which  the  canoe  and  lading  is  again  carried  fouv  htiM- 
dfcd  paces.  From  hence  the  channel  is  also  inter- 
cepted by  very  dangerous  rapids  for  two  miles  wester-  ' 
ly,  to  the  point  of  Pointe  du  Bois,  which  is  two  hun- 
dred and  eighty  paces.  Then  succeeds  the  Portage 
©f  Lake  Croche  one  mile  more,  where  the  carrying 
place  is  eighty  paces,  and  is  followed  bv  ap  embarka- 
tion opthatlakev  which  takes  its  name  from  its  figure. 
It  extiends  eighteen  miles,  in  a  mesltidering  form,  and 
in  a  westerly  direction  ;  it  is  in  genejral  very  narrow, 
and  at  about  two-thirds  of  its  length  becomes  very 
contracted,  wij;h  a  strong  current. 

Within  three  miles  of  the  last  Portage  is  a  remark-r 
able  rock,  with  a  smooth  face,  but  split  and  cracked 
in  different  parts,  which  hang  over  the  water.  Into 
one  of  its  horizontal  chasnis  a  great  number  of  ar- 
rows have  been  shot,  which  is  said  to  have  been  done 
by  a  war  part^  of  the  Nedowasis  or  Si^eux,  who  had 
don6  much  mischief  in  this  country,  and  left  these 
weapons  as  a  warning  to  the  Chebois  or  natives,  that 
notwithstanding  its  lakes,  ri\ers,  and  rocks,  it  was  not 
inaccessible  to  their  enemies. 

Lake  Croche  is  terminated  by  the  Portage  de  Ri- 
deau,  four  hundred  paces  long,  and  derives  its  name 
from  the  appearance  of  the  water,  falling  over  a  rock 
of  upwards  of  thirty  feet.  Several  rapids  s\|cceed, 
with  intervals  uf  stili  water,  for  about  three  miles  to 
the  Falcon  Portage,  which  isyery  difficult,  is  four  huii- 
dred  paces  long,  and  leads  to  the  Lake  of  La  Croix, 
so  named  from  its  shape.  It  runs  about  north-west 
eighteen  miles  to  the  Beaver  Dam,  and  then  sinks  in- 
to a  deep  bay  nearly  east.  The  course  of  the  Portage 
is  west  by  north  for  sixteen  miles  more  from  the  Bea- 
ver Dam,  and  into  the  east  bay  is  a  road  which  was 
frequented  by  the  French,  and  followed  through  lakes, 
and  rivers  until  they  came  to  Lake  Superior  by  the 
river  Caministiquia,  thirty  miles  east  of  the  Grande 
Portage. 

-  Portage  la  Croix  is  six  hundred  paces  long :  to  thq 
nexi  portage  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile»  and  its  length  is 
forty  paces  i  the  river  winding  four  miles  to  VermilUoH 


I  H 


it. 


GentraJ  Hiitory  of  the  Ftir  Tradi. 


IS 


;d  four  hii»- 
s  also  inter- 
niles  wester- " 
is  two  hun- 
the  Portage 
he  carrying 
ap  embarka- 
m  its  figure, 
ig  formi  and 
very  narrow, 
jcomes  very 

is  a  remarki- 
and  cracked 
water.  Into 
imber  of  ar- 
ve  been  done 
ux»  who  had 
md  left  these 
natives,  that 
Ls,  it  was  not 

)rtage  de  Ri- 
fes  its  name 
,  over  a  rock 
>ids  succeed, 
kree  miles  to 
[,  is  four  huh- 
»f  La  Croix, 
lit  north-west 
Ihen  sinks  in- 
the  Portage 
'om  the  Bea- 
id  which  was 
irough  lakes, 
iriov  by   the 
the  Grande 

long :  to  thq 

Its  length  is 

lo  Vermillioa 


Lake,  which  nma  six  or  seven  mile«  Bortli-iiorth-west, 
and  by  a  narrow  strait  communicates  with  Lake  Na- 
maycan,  which  takes  its  name  from  a  particular  place 
at  the  foot  of  a  fall,  where  the  natives  spear  sturgeon : 
Its  course  is  about  north-north-west  ati^  touth-aouth- 
east,  with  a  bay  running  east,  that  gives  it  the  form  of 
a  triangle :  its  length  is  about  sixteen  miles  to  the  Nou* 
velte  Portage;.  The  discharge  of  the  lake  is  from  a  bay  oh, 
the  left,  and  the  portage  one  hundred  and  eighty  paces, 
to  which  Siucceeds  a  very  small  river,  from  whence 
there  is  but  a  short  distance  to  the  next  Nouvelle  Por- 
tage, three  hundred  and  twenty  pac^s  long.  It  is  then 
necessary  to  embark  on  a  swamp,  or  ovei^owed  coun* 
try,  where  wild  rice  grows  in  great  abundance.  There 
is  a  channel  ov  smiill  river  in  the  centre  of  this  swamp' 
which  is  kept  with  difiiculty,  and  runs  south  and  north 
one  mile  and  a  half.  With  deepening  water,  the 
course  continues  north-north-west  one  mile  to  the 
Chaudiere  Portage,  which  is  caused  by  the  discharge 
of  the  waters  running  on  the  left  of  the  road  from  Lake 
Naymaycan,  which  used  to  be  the  coinmon  route,  but 
that  which  I  have  described  is  the  safest  as  well  as  the 
shortest.  From  hence  there  is  some  current  though 
the  wat«r  is  wide  spread,  and  its  course  about  north br 
west  three  miles  and  a  half  to  the  Lae  dc  la  Fluie,  which 
lies  nearly  east  and  w^l;  from  thence  ^bout  fifteen 
miles  is  a  narrow  strait  that  dividies  the  lake  into  two 
unequal  parts,  whence  to  its  discharge  is  a  distance  of 
twenty.four  miles.  There  is  a  deep  bay  running  north- 
west on  the  right,  that  is  not  included,  and  is  remark- 
able for  furnishing  the  nuiives  with  a  kind  of  soft,  red 
stone,  of  Which  they  make  their  pipes  j  it  also  affords 
an  excellenr  fishery  both  in  summer  and  winter;  and 
from  it  is  an  easy,  safe,  and  short  road  ttt  the  Lake  du 
Bois,  (which  I  shall  mention  prcRently)  for  the  Indians 
to  pass  in  their  small  canoes  through  a  small  lake  and 
on  a  small  river,  whose  banks  furnish  abundance  of 
wild  rice.  The  discharge  of  this  lake  is  called  Lake 
de  la  Pluie  River,  at  whose  entrance  there  is  a  rapid, 
below  which  is  a  fine  bay,  where  there  had  been  an 
extensive  picketed  fort  and  building  when  possessed 

E2 


54  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 

by  the  French ;  the  site  of  it  is  at  present  a  beautiiUr 
meadow,  surrounded  with  graves  of  oaks.  From  hence 
there  \^  a  strong  current  for  two  miles,  where  the  wa- 
ter falls  over  a  rock  twenty  feet,  and  from  the  conse- 
quent turbulence  of  the  water,  the  carrying-place,  which 
ia  three  hundred  and  twenty  paces  long,  derives  the 
name  of  Chaudiere.  Two  miles  nward  is  the  present 
trading  establishment,  situated  c  a  high  bank  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  in  48.  ST.  north  latitude. 

Here  the  people  from  Montreal  come  to  meet  thos6 
who  arriv  from  the  Athabasca  country,  as  has  been 
alt*eiady  dc*  bribed,  and  exchange  lading  with  them* 
This  is  also  the  residence  of  the  first  chief,  or  Sachem, 
of  all  the  Algonquin  tribes,  inhabiting  the  different 
parts  of  this  country.  He  is  by  distinction  called  Nec< 
tain,  which  implies  personal  pre-eminence.  Here  also 
the  elders  meet  in  council  to  treat  ofpeaceorwar. 

This  is  oile  of  the  finest  rivers  in  the  north-west,  and 
runs  a  course  west  and  east  one  hundred  and  twenty 
computed  miles ;  but  in  talung  its  course  and  distance 
minutely  I  make  it  only  eighty.  Its  banks  are  cover- 
ed with  a  rich  soil,  particularly  to  the  north,  which,  in 
many  parts,*  are  clothed  with  fine  open  groves  of  oak, 
with  the  maple,  the  pine,  and  the  cedar.  The  sou- 
thern bank  is  not  so  ^^levated,  and  display  s  the  maple, 
the  white  birch,  and  the  cedar,  with  the  spruce,  the 
alder,  and  various  underwood.  Its  waters  abound  ia 
'fish,  particularly  the  sturgeon,  which  the  natives  both 
Spear  and  take  with  drag-nets.  But  notwithstanding 
the  promise  of  this  soil,  Ihe  Indians  do  not  attend  to 
its  cultivation,  though  they  are  not  ignorant  of  the  com- 
mon process,  and  are  fond  of  the  Indian  corn,  when  they 
can  get  it  from  us. 

Though  the  soil  at  the  fort  ia  a  stiff  clay,  there  is  a 
\garden,  which,  unassited  as  it  is  by  manure,  or  any  par- 
tic'ilar  attention,  is  tolerably  productive. 

We  now  proceed  to  mention  the  Lake  du  Bois,  into 
which  this  river  discharges  itself  in  latitude  49.  north, 
and  was  formerly  famous  for  the  richness  of  its  banks 
and  waters,  which  abounded  with  whatever  was  neces- 
sary to  a  savage  life.    The  French  had  severgj  settla- 


'ode* 


General  Hiatory  of  the  Fur  Trade.         5$ 


snt  a  beautiful 
From  hence 
where  the  wa- 
om  the  conse- 
g-place,  which 
g,  derives  the 
i  is  the  present 
;h  bank  on  the 
latitude. 
:  to  meet  thos6 
r,  as  has  been 
ng  with  them* 
ief)  or  Sachem > 
;  the  different 
ion  called  Nee- 
nee.  Here  also 
3.ce  or  war. 
morth-west,  and 
red  and  twenty 
se  and  distance 
anks  are  cover- 
lorth,  which,  in 
proves  of  oak, 
ir.     The  sou- 
ays  the  maple, 
le  spruce,  the 
Iters  abound  in 
le  natives  both 
otwithstanding 
not  attend  to 
ant  of  the  com- 
orn,  when  they 

clay,  there  is  a 
ure,  or  any  par- 

ce  du  Bois,  into 
itude  49.  north, 
ess  of  its  banks 
ver  was  neces- 
severaJ  settle- 


ments in  and  about  it;  but  it  might  be  almost  conclud- 
ed, that  some  fatal  circumstance  had  destroyed  the 
game,  as  war  and  the  small^pox  had  diminished  the  m- 
habitants,  it  having  been  very  unproductive  in  animals 
since  the  British  subjects  have  been  engaged  in  travel- 
ling through  it ;  though  it  now  appears  to  be  recover- 
ing its  pristine  state.  The  few  Indians  who  inhabit  it 
might  live  very  comfortable,  if  they  were  not  so  immo- 
derately fond  of  spirituous  liquors. 

This  lake  is  also  rendered  remarkable,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  Americans  having  named  it  as  the  spot, 
from  whicli  a  line  of  boundary,  between  them  and 
British  America,  was  to  run  west,  until  it  struck  the 
Missisippi ;  which,  however,  can  never  happen,  as  the 
north-west  part  of  the  Lake  du  Bois  is  |n  latitude  49. 
37.  north,  and  longitude  94.  31.  west,  and  the 
northernmost  branch  of  the  source  of  the  ^Ilasiaippi 
is  in  latitude  47.  38.  north,  and  longitude  95.  6.  west, 
ascertained  by  Mr.  Thomson,  astronomer  to  the 
Nokh-West  Company,  who  was  sent  expressly  for 
that  purpose  in  the  spring  of  1798.  He,  in  tlve  same 
year,  determined  the  northern  bend  pf  the  Missiiiou- 
ry  to  be  in  latitude  47.  32.  north,  and  longitude  lO I. 
25.  west;  and,  according  to  the  Indian  ac<jountB,.  it 
runs  to  the  south  of  west,  so  that  if  th^e-  Missisoury 
were  even  to  be  considered  as  the  Missisippi,  no  west- 
ern line  couid  strike  it. 

It  does  not  appear  to  me  to  be  clearly  determined 
what  course  the  line  is  to  take,  or  from  what  part  of 
Lake  Superior  it  strikes  through  the  country  to  the 
Lake  du  Bois ;  were  it  to  follow  the  principal  waters  to 
iheir  source,  it  ought  to  keep  through  Lake  Superior 
to  the  River  St.  Louis,  and  follow  that  river  to  its 
source  ;  close  to  which  is  the  source  of  the  waters  fal- 
ling into  the  river  of  Lake  la  Pluie,  which  is  a  com- 
mon route  of  the  Indians  to  the  Lake  du  Bois :  the  St. 
Louis  passes  within  a  short  distance  of  a  branch  of  the 
Missisippi,  where  it  becomes  navigable  for  canoes. 
This  will  appear  more  evident  from  consulting  the 
map  ;  and  if  the  navigation  of  the  Missisippi  is  Gonsi> 
dered  as  of  any  consequence,  by  this  country,  from 


5$         Gtnerdl  Hiatory  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


m 


that  part  of  the  globC)  luch  is  the  nearest  way  to  gt% 
at  it. 

But  to'i^etum  to  our  narrative.  Th''  Lake  du  Boik 
is,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  nearly  round,  and  the  canoe 
course  through  the  centre  of  it  among  a  cluster  of 
islands,  some  of  which  are  so  extensive  that  they  may 
be  , taken  for  the  main  land.  The  reduced  course 
Avould  be  nearly  south  and  north*  But  follovnng  the 
navigating  course,  I  make  the  distance  seventy^iive 
miles,  though  in  a  direct  line  it  would  tall  very  short 
of  that  length.  At  about  two-thirds  of  it  there  is  a 
small  carrying-place,  when  tlic  water  is  low.  The 
carrying-place  out  of  the  Jake  is  on  an  island,  and  nam- 
ed Portage  du  Rat,  in  latitude  49.  37.  north,  and 
longitude  94^.  west ;  it  is  about  fifty  paces  long.  The 
lake  discharges  itself  at  both  ends  of  this  island,  and 
forms  'he  River  Winipic,  which  is  a  large  body  of 
water,  interspersed  with  numerous  islands,  causing 
various  channels  ^d  interruptions  of  portages  and  ra- 
pids. In  some  parts  it  has  the  appearance  of  lakes, 
with  steady  currents  ;  I  estimate  its  windiiu,  course  to 
the  Dallas  e)g!;t  miles ;  to  the  Grande  Decharge  twen- 
ty-five miles  and  an  half,  which  is  along  carrying-place 
for  the  goods  \  from  thence  to  the  little  Decharge  one 
mile  and  an  half;  to  the  Terre  Jaune  Portage  two 
miles  and  an  half;  then  to  its  galet  seventy  yards ; 
two  miles  and  three  quarters  to  the  Terre  Blanche, 
near  which  is  a  fall  of  from  four  to  five  feet ;  threb 
miles  and  an  half  to  Portage  de  L'Isle,  where  there  is 
a  ti^ading-post,  and,  about  eleven  miles  on  the  north 
shore,  a  trading  establishment,  which  is  the  road,  in 
boats,  to  Albany  River,  and  from  thence  to  Hudson's 
Bay.  There  is  also  a  communication  with  Lake  Su- 
perior, through  what  is  called  the  Nipigan  country, 
which  enters  that  lake  about  thirty-five  leagues  east  of 
the  Grande  Portage.  In  short,  the  country  is  so  bro- 
ken by  lakes  and  rivers,  that  people  may  find  their  way 
in  canoes  in  any  direction  they  please.  It  is  now  four 
miles  to  Portage  de  L'Isle,  which  is  but  short,  though 
several  canoes  have  been  lost  in  attemptmg  to  run  the 
rapid.     Fro|p^.  thence  it  is  twenty-six  miles  to  Jacob's 


St  way  to  gt% 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,  57 

Falls,  which  arc  about  fifteen  feet  hi^h  ;  and  six  miles 
and   an  half  to  the  woody  point ;  forty   yards    from 
,  which  is  another  Portage.     They  both  form  an  high 
fall,  but  not  perpcmncular.     From  thence  to  another 
jgalet,  or  rocky  Portage,  is  about  two  miles,  which  is 
one  continual  rapid  and  cascade;  and  about  two  miles 
further  is  the  Chute  a  I'Esclavc,  which  is  upwards  of 
[thirty  feet.    The  Portage  is  long,  through  a  point  co- 
[vercd  with  wood :  it  is  six  miles  and  an  half  more  to 
the  barrier,  and  ten  miles  to  the  Grand  Rapid.     From 
thence,  on  the  north  side,  is  a  safe  road,  when  the  wa- 
iters are  high,  through  small  fivers  and  lakes,  to  the 
jLake  du  Bonnet,  called  the  Pinnawas,  from  the  man 
jwho  discovered  it:  to  the  White  River,  so  called  from 
[its  being,  for  a  considerable  length,  a  succession  of 
falls  and  cataracts,  is  twelve  miles.     Here  are  seven 
)ortages,  in  so  short  a  space,  that  the  whole  of  them 
ire  discernable  at  the  same  momer^.     From  this  to 
^ake  du  Bonnet  is  fifteen  miles  more,  and  four  miles 
tcross  it  to  the  rapid.     Here  the  Pinnawas  road  joins, 
ind  from  thence  it  is  two  miles  to  the  Galet  du  Lac  du 
bonnet;  from  this  to  the  Galet  du  Bonnet  one  "mile 
land  an  half;  thence  to  the  Portage  of  the  same  name 
lis  three  miles.     This  Portage  is  near  half  a  league  in 
length,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  custom  the  Indi- 
ins  have  of  crowning  stones,  laid  in  a  circle,  on  the 
lighest  rock  in  the  portage,  with  wreaths  of  herbage 
ind  branches.     There  have  been  examples  of  men  tak- 
ing seven  packages  of  ninety  pounds  each,  at  one  end 
)f  the  portage,  and  putting  them  down  at  the  other 
without  stopping. 
To  this,  another   small  portage  immediately  suc- 
[ceeds,  over  a  rock  producing  a  fall.     From  thence  to 
the  fall  of  Terre  Blanche  is  two  miles  and  an  half;  to 
the  first  portage  Des  Faux  qui  Remuent  is  three  miles : 
to  the  next,  of  the  same  name,  is  but  a  few  yards  dis- 
jtant ;  to  the  third  and  last,   which  is  a  Decharge,   is 
three  miles  and  an  half ;  and  from  this  to  the  last 
[portage  of  the  river  one  mile  and  an  half  ;  and  to  the 
establishment  or  provision  house,  is  two  miles  and  a^a 


98  General  History  of  the  Far  Trade. 

hfilf.  Here  also  the  French  had  their  principal  inland 
depot}  and  got  their  canoes  made.  ^ 

Itbhere^  that  the  present  traders^  goi^S  ^^  great 
distances)  and  where  provision  is  difficult  to  procure, 
receive  a>  supply  to  carry  thera  to  the  Rainy  Lake,  or 
I^ake  Superior.  From  the  establishment  to  the  Entrance 
of  Lake  Wmipic  is  four  miles  and  an  half,  latitude  50. 
Sf.north. 

The  country,  soil,  produce,  and  climate,  from  Lake 
Superior  to  this  place,  bear  a  general  resemblance, 
wth  a  predominance  of  rock  and  \»w.ter:  the  former 
is  of  the  granite  kind.  Where  there  is  any  soil,  it  is 
well  covered  with  wood>  such  as  oak,  elm,  ash  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  maple  of  two  kinds,  pine«  of  various  de» 
scription^y-among  which  are  what  I  call  the  cypress, 
with  the  hickory,  iron-wood,  Hard,  poplar,  cedar,  black 
and  white  l^ircb,  &c.  Vast  quantities  of  wild  rice  are 
seen  throughout  the  country,  which  the  natives  collect 
in  the  month  of  August  for  their  winter  stores.*  To 
the  north  of  fifty  degrees  it  is  hardly  known,  or  at 
least  does  not  come  to  maturity. 

Lake  Winipic  is  the  great  reservoir  of  several  large 
rivers,  and  discharges  itself  by  the  Riyer  Nelson  into 
Hudson's  Bay.  The  first  in  rotation,  next  to  that  I 
have  just  described,  is  the  Assiniboin,  or  Red  River, 
which,  at  the  distance  of  forty  miles  coastwise,  disem- 
bogues on  the  south-west  side  of  the  Lake  Winipic. 
It  alternately  receives  those  two  denominatibns  from 
its  dividing,  at  the  distance  of  about  thirty  miles  from 
the  lake,  into  two  large  branches.  The  eastern  branch 
called  the  Red  River,  runs  in  a  southern  direction  to 
near  the  head  waters  of  the  Missisippi.  On  this  are 
two  trading  establishments.  The  country  on  eithei* 
side  is  but  partially  supplied  with  wood,  and  consists 
of  plains  covered  with  herds^  of  the  buffalo  and  the 
elk,  especially  on  the  western  side.  On  the  eastern 
side  are  lakes  and  rivers,  and  the  whole  country  is  well 
wooded,  level,  abounding  in  beaver,  bears,  moose-deer, 
fallow-deer,  &©.     The  natives,  who  arc  of  the  Algon^ 

*  The  fruits  are,  strawberries,  hurtleberriet,  plumt)%  Mid  chertiei«  i)as(IC'auUi 
^ooseiSierries,  curranUi  raspberries,  poircsi  &c, 


ade» 


Gtneral  History  of  the  Fur  Trade.       '  $9 


rincipal-  inland 

;oing  to  great 
lit  to  procure) 
lainy  Lake,  or 
to  the  Entrance 
ilf,  latitude  50. 

ite,  from  Lake 

I  resemblance, 

':  the    former 

i  any  soil,  it  is 

tlm,  ash  of  dif- 

of  various  de- 

iM  the  cypress, 

ir,  cedar,  black 

•f  wild  rice  are 

natives  collect 

r  stores.*     To 

known,  or  at 

f  several  large 
er  Nelson  into 
next  to  that  I 
or  Red  River, 
Lstwise,  discm- 
ake  Winipic. 
ninatibns  from 
ly  miles  from 
astern  branch 
n  direction  to 
On  this  are 
itry  on  either 
and  consists 
Liffalo  and  the 
n  the  eastern 
ountry  is  well 
s,  moose-deer, 
of  the  Algon-. 

I  ehcrries,  Ija^lC'nuUi 


quin  tribe,  are  not  very  numerous,  tmd  are  considered 
as  the  natives  of  Lake  Superior.  This  country  being 
near  the  Missisippi,  is  also  inhabited  by  the  Nad&wa- 
sis,  who  are  the  natural  enemies  of  the  former ;  the 
head  of  the  water  being  the  war-line,  they  are  in  acon- 
[tinual  state  of  hostility  ;  and  though  the  Algohquins 
[are  equally  brave,  the  others  generally  out-number 
them  ;  it  is  very  probable,  therefore,  that  if  the  latter 
:ontinue  to  venture  out  of  the  woods,  which  form 
Iheir  only  protection,  they  will  soon  be  extirpated. 
There  is  not,  perhaps,  a  finer  country  in  the  world  for 
the  residence  of  uncivilized  man,  than  that  which  oc- 
cupies the  space  between  this  river  and  Lake  Superior. 
It  abounds  in  every  thing  necessary  to  the  wants  and 
:omforts  of  such  a  people.  Fish,  venison,  and  fowl, 
ath  wild  rice,  are  in  great  plenty  ;  while,  at  the  same 
jime,  their  subsistence  requires  thit  bodily  exercise 
lo  necessary  to  health  and  vigor. 

This  great  extent  of  country  was  formerly  very  po- 
pulous, but  from  the  information  I  received,  the  aggre- 
:ate  of  its  inhabitants  does  not  .exceed  three  hundred 
'^arriors  ;  and,  among  the  few  whom  I  saw,  it  appear- 
ed to  me  that  the  widows  were  more  numerous  than 
the  men.     Tht;  rackoon  is  a  native  of  this  country, but 
is  seldom  found  to  the  northward  of  it. 
The  other  branch  is  called  after  the  tribe  of  the 
Fadawasis,  who  here  go  by  the  name  of  Assiniboins, 
md  are  the  principal  inhabitants  of  it.     It  runs  from 
the  north-north-west,  and  in  the  latitude  of  5 1  A. west, 
md  longitude  103-|^.  rising  in  the  same  mountains  as 
the  river  Dauphin,  of  which  I  Shall  speak  in  due  order. 
;They  must  have  separated  from  their  nation  at  a  time 
")cyond  our  knowledge,  and  live  in  peace  with  th«  Al- 
l^onquins  and  Knisteneaux. 
The  country  between  this  and  the  Red  River,  is  al- 
lost  a  continual  plain  to  the  Missisoury.     The  soil  is 
sand  and  gravel,  with  a  slight  intermixture  of  earth, 
md  produces  a  short  grass.   Trees  are  very  rare;  nor 
jare  there  on  the  banks  of  the  river  sufficient,   except 
ji a  particular  spots,   to  build  houses  and  supply  fire- 
wood for  the  trading  establisbmenst,  of  which  there  ^ro 


Ij 


'■■■li 


-IP 


"Ml 


60  General  Hist V  J  of  the  Fur  Trade, 

four  principal  ones*  Both  these  rivers  are  navigable 
for  canoes  to  their  source,  without  a  fall ;  though  in 
some  parts  there  are  rapids,  caused  by  occasional  beds 
of  lime- stone,  and  gravel;  but  in  general  they  are  a 
pandy  bottom. 
;^4*  -p^g  Assiniboins,  and  some  of  the  Fall,  or  Big-bel. 
lied  Indians,  are  the  principal  inhabitants  of  this  coun. 
try,  and  border  on  the  river,  occupying  the  centre 
part  of  it ;  that  next  Lake  Winipic,  and  about  its 
source,  being  the  station  of  the  Algonquins  and 
Knisteneaux,  who  have  chosen  it  in  preference  to  their 
own  country.  They  do  not  exceed  five  hundred  fami- 
lies*  They  are  not  beaver  hunters,  which  accounts 
for  their  allowing  the  division  just  mentioned,  as  the 
lower  and  upper  parts  of  this  river  have  those  animals, 
which  are  not  found  in  the  intermediate  district. 
They  confine  themselves  to  hunting  the  buffalo,  and  | 
trapping  Solves,  which  cover  the  country.  What  they 
do  not  want  of  the  former  for  raiment  and  food,  they 
sometimes  make  into  pemmican,  or  pounded  meat, 
while  they  melt  the  fat,  and  prepare  the  skins  in  their 
hair,  for  winter.  •  The  wolves  they  never  eat,  but  pro- 
duce a  tallow  from  their  fat,  and  prepare  their  skins; 
all  which  they  bring  to  exchange  for  arms  and  ammu- 
nition,  rum,  tobacco,  knives,  and  various  baubkf,  | 
with  those  who  go  to  traffic  in  their  country* 

The  Algonquins,  and  the  Knisteneaux,  on  the  con- 
trary, attend  to  the  fur-hunting,  so  that  they  acquire 
the  additional  articles  of  cloth,  blankets,  Sec.  but  their  I 
passion  for  rum  often  puts  it  out  of  their  power  to  sup- 
ply themselves  with  real  necessaries. 

The  next  river  of  magnitude  is  the  river  Dauphin, 
which  empties  itself  at  the  head  of  St.  Martin's  Bay, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Lake  Winipic,  latitude  nearly 
52.  15.  north,  taking  its  source  in  the  same  moun- 
tains as  thelast-nientioned  river,  as  well  as  the  Swan  and  j 
Red-Deer  River,  the  latter  passing  through  the  lake  of 
the  same  name,  as  well  as  the  former,  and  both  con- 
tinuing their  course  through  the  Manitoba  Lake, 
which,  from  thence,  runs  parallel  with  Lake  Winipic, 
to  within  nine  miles  of  the  Red  River,  and  by  what  is 


ifimeral  Bistort^  of  the  Fur  Trade.  61 

called  the  river  Dauphin,  disembogues  its  wafers,  as 
already  described,  into  that  lake.  These  rivers  are 
very  rapid,  and  interrupted  by  talis,  &c.  the  bed  be- 
ing generally  rocky.  All  this  country,  to  the  south 
branch  of  the  Saskatchiwine,  abounds  in  beaver, 
fmoose-deer,  fallow-deer,  elks,  bears,  buffaloes,  &c. 
The  soil  is  good,  and  wherever  any  attempts  have 
Lbeen  made  to  raise  the  esculent  plants,  Sec.  it  has  been 
[found  productive. 

On  these  waters  are  three  principal  forts  for  trade. 
[Fort  Dauphin,  which  was  established  by  the  French 
before  the  conquest.  Red-Deer  River,  and  Swan- 
I  River  Forts,  with  occasional  detached  posts  from  these. 
jThe  inhabitants  are  the  Knisteneaux,  from  the  north 
of  Lake  Winipic ;  and  Algonquins,  from  the  country 
[between  the  Red  River  and  Lake  Superior  j  and  somd 
^from  the  Rainy  Lake :  but  as  they  are  not  fixed  inha- 
)itants,  their  number  cannot  be  determined  :  they  do 
[not,  however,  at  any  time  exceed  two  hundred  warri- 
lors.  In  general  they  are  good  hunters.  There  is  no 
>ther  considerable  river  except  the  Saskatchiwine, 
dtich  I  shall  mention  presently,  that  empties  itself 
into  the  Lake  Winipic. 

Those  on  the  north  lide  are  inconsiderable,  owing 
[to  the  comparative  vicinity  of  the  high  land  that  sepa- 
rates the  waters  coming  this  way,  from  those   dis- 
charging  into   Hudson's  Bay.      The  course  of   the 
lake  is  about  west-north-west,   and  south-south-east, 
fand  the  east  end  of  it  is  in  50.  37.  north.     It  contract* 
at  about  a  quarter  of  its  length  to  a  strait,  in  latitude 
1 51.  45.  and  is  no  more  than  two  miles  broad,  where 
[the  south  shore  is  gained  through  islands,  and  cross- 
ing various  bays  to  the  discharge  of  the   Saskatchi- 
wine, 4n  latitude  53.   15.    This  lake,  in  common  with 
those  of  this  country,  is  bounded  on  the  north  with 
banks  of  black  and  grey  rock,  and  on  the  south  by  a 
low,  level  country,  occasionally  interrupted  by  a  ridge 
or  bank  of  lime-stones,  lying  in  strata,  and  rising  to  the 
perpendicular   height  of  from  twenty  to  forty  feet; 
these  are  covered  with  asmallquantity  of  earth,  form- 
ing a  level  surface,  which  beai's  timber,  but  of  a  mo- 

F 


43 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


derate  growth,  and  declines  to  a  swamp.  Where  the 
banks  are  low,  it  is  evident  in  many  places  that  the 
Waters  arc  withdrawn,  and  never  rise  to  those  heightt 
which  were  formerly  washed  by  them. 

The  inhabitants  who  are  found  along  this  lake,  are 
of  the  Knisteneaux  and  Algonquin  tribes,  and  but  few 
in  number,  though  game  is  not  scarce,  and  there  is 
lish  in  great  abundance.  The  black  bass  is  fouad 
there,  and  no  further  west ;  and  beyond  it  no  maple 
trees  are  seen,  either  hard  or  soft. 

On  entering  the  Saskatchiwine,  in  the  course  of  a 
few  miles,  the  great  rapid  interrupts  the  passage.  It 
is  about  three  miles  long.  Through  the  greatest  part 
of  it  the  canoe  is  towed,  half  or  full  laden,  according 
W)  the  state  of  the  waters :  the  canoe  and  its  contents 
are  then  carried  one  thousand  one  hundred  paces. 
The  chann^  here  is  near  a  mile  wide,  the  waters 
tumbling  over  ridges  of  rocks  that  traverse  the  river. 
The  south  bank  is  very  high,  rising  upwards  of  fifty 
feet,  of  the  same  rock  as  seen  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Lake  Winipic,  and  the  north  is  not  more  than  a  third 
of  that  height.  There  is  an  excellent  sturgeon-fishe- 
ry at  the  foot  of  this  cascade,  and  vast  numbers  of  pe- 
licans, cormorants,  £cc.  frequent  it,  where  they  watcb 
to  seize  the  fish  that  may  be  killed  or  disabled  by  the 
force  of  the  waters. 

About  two  miles  from  this  Portage  the  navigation  is 
^gain  interrupted  by  the  Portage  of  theRochd  Rouge, 
which  is  an  hundred  yards  long  ;  and  a  mile  and  an 
half  from  thence  the  river  is  barred  by  a  range  of  isl- 
ands, forming  rapids  between  them  ;  and  through 
these  it  is  the  same  distance  to  the  rapid  of  Lake 
Travers,  which  is  four  miles  right  across,  and  eight 
miles  in  length.  Then  succeeds  the  Grande  Decharge, 
and  several  rapids,  for  four  miles  to  the.  Cedar  Lake, 
which  is  entered  through  a  small  chaimel  on  the  left, 
formed  by  an  island,  as  going  round  it  w^ould  occasion 
loss  of  time.  In  this  distance  banks  of  rocks  (such 
as  have  already  been  described)  appear  at  intervals  on 
either  side ;  the  rest  of  the  country  is  low.  This  is 
the  case  along  the  south  bank  of  the  lake  and  the  isl- 


General  Hhtory  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


63 


•nda,  while  Ihe  north  side,  which  is  very  uncommon, 
is  level  throughout.  This  lake  runs  first  west  {out 
miles,  then  as  much  more  west-south-west,  across  a 
deep  bay  on  the  right,  then  six  miles  to  the  Point  d- 
Lievrc,  and  across  another  bay  again  on  the  right ; 
then  north-west  eight  miles,  across  a  still  deeper  bay 
on  the  right ;  and  seven  miles  parallel  with  the  north 
coast,  north-north-west  through  islands,  five  miles 
more  to  Fort  Bourbon*,  situated  on  a  small  island^  di- 
viding this  from  Mud  Lake. 

The  Cedar  Lake  is  from  four  to  twelve  miles  wide, 
exclusive  of  the  bays.  ItA  banks  are  covered  with 
wood,  and  abound  in  game,  and  its  waters  produce 
plenty  of  fish,  paiiicularly  the  sturgeon.  The  Mud 
I^ake,  and  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Fort  Bourbon^ 
abound  with  geese,  ducks,  swans,  &c.  and  was  for- 
merly remarkable  for  a  vast  number  of  martens,  of 
which  it  cannot  now  boast  but  a  very  small  proportion. 

The  Mud  Lake  must  have  formerly  been  a  part  of 
the  Cedar  Lake,  but  the  immense  quantity  of  earth 
and  sand,  brought  down  i)y  tlie  Sasks.tchiwine,  has  filled 
up  this  part  of  it  for  a  circumference  whose  diameter  is 
at  least  fifteen  or  twenty  miles:  part  of  which  space  is 
still  covered  with  a  few  feet  of  water,  but  the  greatest 
proportion  is  shaded  with  large  trees,  such  as  the  Hard, 
the  swamp-ash,  and  the  willow.  This  land  consists  of 
many  islands,  which  consequently  form  various  chan- 
nels, several  of  which  are  occasionally  dry,  and  bearing 
young  wood.  It  is,  indeed,  more  than  probable  that 
this  river  will,  in  the  course  of  time,  convert  the  whole 
of  the  Cedar  Lake  into  a  forest.  To  the  north-west  the 
cedar  is  not  to  be  found. 

From  this  lake  the  Saskatchiwine  may  be  considered 
as  navigable  to  near  its  sources  in  the  rocky  mountains, 
for  canoes,  and  without  a  carry iag-place,  making  a 
great  bend  to  Cumberland  House,  on  Sturgeon  Lake. 
From  the  confluence  of  its  north  and  south  branches 
its  course  is  westerly  ;  spreading  itself,  it  receives  se- 
veral tributary  streams,  and  encompasses  a  large  tract 
of  country,  which  is  level,  particularly  along  the  south 

*  Tills  wag  also  a  priocipal  post  of  the  Frencli,  trlio'tave  it  its  name. 


«4. 


Setteral  History  of  the  Fur  Trade^ 


branch,  but  is  little  knowp. — Beaver,  and  other  animaf* 
^*ho^e  furs  are  valuable,  are  umongst  the  inhabitatus 
of  the  north-west  branch,  and  the  plains  are  covered 
•with  bufTaloes,  wolves,  and  small  foxes;  particularly 
iiliout  the  south  branch,  which  however,  has  of  late 
claimed  some  attention,  as  it  is  now  understood,  thati 
where  the  plains  terminate  towards  the  rocky  mountain, 
tlicre  Is  a  space  of  hilly  country,  clotlied  with  wood,, 
and  inhabited  also  by  animals  of  the  fur  kind.  This 
1  "is  been  actually  determined  to  be  the  case  towards 
the  head  of  the  north  branch,  where  the  trade  has  been 
carried  to  about  the  latitude  54.  north,  and  longitude 
1 14^.  west.  The  bed  and  banks  of  the  latter,  in  some 
few  places,  discover  a  stratum  of  free  stone ;  but,  in 
general,  they  are  composed  of  earth  and  sand.  The 
plains  are  sand  and  gravel,  covered  with  lint  grass,  and 
mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  \ege table  earth.  This 
is  particularly  observable  along  the  north  branch,  the 
west  side  of  which  is  covered  with  wood. 

There  are  on  this  river  five  principal  factories  for 
the  convenience  of  trade  with  the  natives.  Nepawi 
House,  South  branch  House,  Fort-George  House,  Fort- 
Augustus  House,  and  Upper  Establishment.  There 
have  been  many  others,  which,  from  various  causes, 
have  been  changed  for  these,  while  there  are  occasion, 
ally  others  depending  on  each  of  ihem. 
^  The  inhabitants,  from  the  information  I  could  obtain, 
are  as  follow  : 

At  Nepawi,  and  South-Branch  House,  about  thirty 
tents  of  Knisteneaux,  or  ninety  warriors  ; '  and  sixty 
tents  of  Stone-Indians,  or  Assiniboins,  who  are  theip 
neighbours,  and  are  equal  to  two  hundred  mei.  ;  their 
hunting  grounds  extend  upv/ards  to  about  the  Eagle 
Hills.  Next  to  them  are  those  who  trade  at  Forts 
George  and  Augustus,  and  are  about  eighty  tents  or 
upwards  of  Knisteaeaux  :  on  either  side  of  the  river, 
their  number  may  be  two  hundred.  In  the  same 
country  are  one  hundred  and  forty  tents  of  Stone- 
Indians;  not  quite  half  of  them  inhabit  the  west 
woody  country  ;  the  others  never  leave  the  plains* 
and  their  pumbera  canaot  be  less  than,  four  hundred 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


6$ 


could  obtain^ 


and  fifty  men.  At  the  southern  head-waters  of  the 
north  branch  dwells  a  tribe  called  Sarsees,  consisting 
of  about  thirty-five  tents,  or  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
men.  Opposite  to  those  eastward,  on  the  head-watem 
of  the  south  branch,  are  the  Picaneaux,  to  the  number 
of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  men.  Next  to  them 
on  the  same  water,  are  the  Blood-Indians,  of  the  same 
nation  as  the  last,  to  the  number  of  about  fifty  tents* 
or  two  hundred  and  fifty  men.  From  them  down- 
wards extend  the  Black-Feet  Indians,  of  the  same  na- 
tion as  the  two  last  tribes ;  their  number  may  be 
eight  hundred  men.  Next  to  them,  and  who  extend 
to  the  confluence  of  the  south  and  north  branch,  are 
the  Fall,  or  Big-bellied  Indians,  who  may  amount  to 
about  six  hundred  warriors. 

Of  all  these  different  tribes,  those  who  inhabit  the 
broken  country  on  the  north-west  side,  and  the  source 
of  the  north  branch,  are  beaver-hunters ;  the  others 
deal  in  provisions,  wolf,  buffalo,  and  fox-skins ;  and 
many  people  on  the  south  branch  do  not  trouble  them- 
selves to  come  near  the  trading  establishments.  Those 
who  do,  choose  such  establishments  as  are  next  to 
their  country.  The  Stone-Indians  here,  are  the  same 
people  as  the  Stone-Indians,  or  Assiniboins,  who  in- 
habit the  river  of  that  name  already  described,  and 
both  are  detached  tribes  from  the  Nadawasis,  who  in- 
habit the  western  side  of  the  Missisippi,  a?id  lower 
part  of  the  Missisoury*  The  Fall,  or  Big-bellied  In- 
dians, are  from  the  south-eastward  also,  and  of  a  peo- 
ple who  inhabit  the  plains  from  the  north  bend  of  the 
last  mentioned  river,  latitude  4f .  32.  north,  longitude 
101,  25.  west,  to  the  south  bend  of  the  Assiniboin  Ri- 
ver, to  the  number  of  seven  hundred  men.  Some  of 
them  occasionally  come  to  the  latter  river  to  exchange 
dressed  buffalo  vobes,  and  bad  wolf- skins  for  articles 
of  no  great  value. 

The  Picaneaux,  Black-Feet,  and  Blood-Indians,  are 
a  distinct  people,  speak  a  language  of  their  own,  and 
I  have  reason  to  think,  ai'e  travelling  north-westward, 
as  well  as  the  others  just  mentioned  :  nor  have  I 
heard  of  any  Indians  with  whose  language  that  which 

F2 


Ggnerai  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


they  spcuk  ha^  any  affinity.  They  are  the  people 
who  deal  in  horses  and  take  them  upon  the  war-par- 
ties towards  Mexico ;  from  which,  it  is  evident,  that 
the  country  to  the  south-east  of  them,  consists  of  plains, 
as  those  animals  could  not  well  be  conducfed  through 
an  hilly  and  woody  country,  intersected  by  waters. 

The  Sarsees,  who  are  but  few  in  number,  appeax 
ircfxn.  their  langauge,  to  come  on  the  contrary  from 
the  north-westward,  and  are  of  the  same  people  as  the 
Rocky-Mountain  Indians,  described  in  my  second 
journal,  who  are  a  tribe  of  the  Chepewyans ;  and,  as 
for  the  Knisteneaux,  there  is  no  question  of  their  ha^^ 
▼ing  been,  and  continuing  to  be,  invaders  of  this  coun- 
try, from  the  eastward.  Formerly,  they  struck  terror 
into  all  the  other  tribes  whom  they  met ;  but  now 
they  have  lost  the  respect  that  was  paid  to  them  ;  as 
those  whonfi  they  formerly  considered  as  barbarians, 
arc;  now  their  allies,  and  consequently  become  better 
acquamced  with  them,  and  have  acquired  the  use  of 
fire-anns.  The  former  are  still  proud  without  power, 
and  affect  to  consider  the  others  as  their  inferiors ; 
those  consequently  are  extremely  jealous  of  them, 
and,  depending  upon  their  own  superiority  in  numbers, 
will  not  submit  tamely  to  their  insults  ;  so  that  the 
consequences  often  prove  fatal,  and  the  Knisteneaux, 
are  thereby  decreasing  both  in  power  and  number : 
^irituous  liquors  also  tend  to  their  diminution,  as 
they  are  instigated  thereby  to  engage  in  quarrels 
which. frequently  have  the  most  disastrous  termination 
soi^ong  themselves. 

The  Stone-Indians  must  not  be  considered  in  the 
same  point  of  view  respecting  the  Knisteneaux,  for 
they  have  been  generally  obliged,  fixjm  various  causes 
to  court  their  alliance.  They,  however,  are  not  with- 
out their  disagreements,  and  it  is  sometimes  very  dif- 
ficult to  compose  their  differences.  These  quarrels 
occasionally  take  place  with  the  traders,  and  some- 
times have  a  tragical  conclusion. — They  generally  ori- 
ginate in  consequence  of  stealing  women  and  horses : 
they  have  great  numbers  of  the  latter  throughout 
Ihelr  plsdns,  whicii  are  brought,  as»  has  been  cbserved) 


Qemrai  IS^^fy  of  thi.  fur  Tpodg.         ^T 

from  the  Spanish  settlements  in  Mexico  ;  and  manj^ 
of  them  have  been  seen,  even  in  the  back  parts  of  this 
counti'y,  branded  with  the  initials  of  their  original 
owners  names.  Those  horses  are  distinctly  employed 
as  beasts  of  burden,  and  to  chase  the  buffalo.  The 
former  are  not  considered  as  be  hg;  of  much  value^ 
a«  they  may  be  purchased  for  a  gun,  which  costs  no 
more  than  twenty-one  shillings  in  Great- liritain.  Ma- 
ny of  the  hunters  cannot  be  purchaatd  with  ten,  the 
comparitive  value  of  which  exceeas  the  property  of 
any  native. 

Of  these  U8«ftil  animals  no  care  whatever  is  taken,^ 
as  when  they  are  no  Ion;  ,  employed,  they  are  turned 
loose  winter  and  summer  to  provide  for  themselves^ 
Here  it  is  to  be  observed,  that  the  country,  in  genera  ., 
on  the  west  and  north  side  of  this  great  river,  is  bro- 
ken by  tb*^  lakes  and  rivers  with  small  inter/ening 
plains,  where  the  soil  is  good,  and  the  grass  grows  to 
some  length'.  To  these  the  male  buffaloes  resort  for 
the  winter,  and  if  it  be  very  severe,  the  females  also 
are  obliged  to  leave  the  plains* 

JBut  to  return  to  the  route  by  which  the  progress 
west  and  north  is  made  through  this  continent. 

We  leave  the  Saskatchiwine*  by  entering  the  river 
which  forms  the  disch^u'ge  of  the  Sturgeon  Lak&>  on 
whose  east  bank  is  situated  Cumberlajid  house,  in  Iati> 
tude  53.  56.  north,  longitude  102.  ^5.  The  distance 
between  the  entrance  and  Cumberlanl  house  is  esti- 
mated at  twenty  miles.  It  is  very  evident  that  the 
mud  which  is  carried  down  by  the  Saskatchiwine  Ri- 
ver, has  formed  the  land  that  lies  between  it  and  the 
lake,  for  the  distance  of  upwards  of  twenty  miles  in 
the  line  of  the  river,  which  is  inundated  during  one 
half  of  the  summer,  though  covered  with  wood.  This 
lake  forms  an  ii/egular  horse-shoe,  one  i^ide  of  which 
runs  to  the  north-west,  and  bears  the  name  of  Pine- 
Island-Lake,  and  the  other  known  by  the  namealrea- 

♦  It  may  be  proper  to  observe,  that  the  French  had  two  settlements  upon  th* 
Saskatchiwine,  long  before,  and  at  tl;e  conquest  of  Canada  j  the  nrstat  the  Pas- 
quia,  near  Carrot  River,  and  tlie  other  at  Nipawi,  where  tliey  had  agricultural  in- 
struments and  wheelcarriages,  marks  of  both  being  found  about  those  esubli^- 
«teats,  where  the  soil  is  exce^Usufc. 


■^"% 


68  General  History  of  the  Fur  TraJi* 

dy  mentioned,  runs  to  the  east  of  north,  and  is  the 
largest :  its  length  is  about  twenty-seven  miles,  and\ 
its  greatest  breadth  about  six  miles.  The  north  side 
of  the  latter  is  the  same  kind  of  rock  as  that  described 
in  Lake  Winipic,  on  the  west  shore.  In  latitude 
54.  1(>.  north,  the  Sturgeon-Weir  Riyer discharges  it- 
self Into  this  lake,  and  its  bed  appears  to  be  of  the 
same  kind  of  rock,  and  is  almost  a  continual  rapid. 
Its  direct  course  is  about  west  by  nbrth,  and  with  its 
windings  is  about  thirty  miles*  It  takes  its  waters 
into  the  Beaver  Lake,  the  south-west  side  of  which 
consists  of  the  same  rock  lying  in  thin  strata :  the 
route  then  proceeds  from  island  to  island  for  about 
twelve  miles,  and  along  the  north  shore,  for  four  miles 
more,  the  whole  being  a  north-west  course  to  the  en- 
trance of  a  river,  in  latitude  54.  32.  north.  The  lake, 
for  this  distiince,  is  about  tour  or  five  miles  wide,  and 
abounds  with  fish  common  to  the  country.  The  part 
of  it  upon  the  right  of  that  which  has  been  described, 
appears  more  considerable.  The  islands  are  rocky, 
and  the  lake  itself  surrounded  by  rocks.  The  com- 
munication from  hence  to  the  Bouleau  Lake,  alter- 
nately narrows  into  rivers,  and  spreads  into  small 
lakes.  The  interruptions  are,  the  Pente  Portage, 
which  is  succeeded  by  the  Grand  Rapid,  where  there 
is  a  Decharge,  the  Carp  Portage,  the  Bouleau  Port- 
age in  latitude  54.  50.  north,  including  a  distance. to- 
gether with  the  windings,  of  thirty-four  miles,  in  a 
westerly  direction.  The  Lake  de  Bouleau  then  fol- 
lows. This  lake  might  with  great  propriety  be  de- 
nominated a  canal,  as  it'  is  not  more  than  a  mile  in 
breadth.  Its  course  is  rather  to  the  east  of  north  for 
twelve  miles  to  Portage  de  L'Isle.  From  thence  there 
is  still  water  to  Portage  d'Epinettes,  except  an  adjoin- 
ing rapid.  The  distance  is  not  more  than  four  miles 
westerly.  After  crossing  this  portage,  it  is  not  more 
than  two  miles  to  Lake  Miron,  which  is  in  latitude  5$ 
7.  north.  Its  length  is  about  twelve  miles,  and  its 
breadth  irregular,  from  two  to  ten  miles.  It  is  only 
separated  from  Lake  du  Chitique,  or  Pelican  Lake,  by 
a  short,  narrow,  and  small  strsut.     That  lake  is  not 


General  History  of  tht  Fur  Trade*,  69 

-wore  than  seven  milea  long,  and  its  course  about 
norlh-west.  The  Lake  des  Bois  then  succeeds,  the 
passage  to  which  is  through  smaJl  lakes,  separatecP 
by  falls  and  rapids.  The  first  is  a  Decharge :  then 
Ibllow  the  three  galets,  in  immediate  succession.  From 
hence  Lake  des  Bois  runs  about  twenty-one  miles.  Its 
cotu'se  is  south-south-east,  and  north-north-west,  aud 
is  full  of  islands.  The  passage  continue*  through  an 
intricate,  narrow  winding,  and  shallow  channel  for 
eight  miles.  The  interruptions  in  this  distance  are 
frequent,  but  depend  much  on  tiie  state  of  the  waters. 
Having  passed  them,  it  is  necessary  to  cross  the  Port- 
age de  Traite,  or,  as  it  is  called  by  the  Indians,  Athi- 
quisipichigan  Ouinigan,  or  the  Portage  of  the  Stretch-, 
ed  Frog-Skin,  to  the  Missinipi.  The  waters  already 
described  discharge  themselves  into  Lake  Winipic,. 
and  augment  those  of  the  river  Nelson.  These  whicK 
we  are  now  enter-ng  are  called  the  Missinipi,  op 
great  Churchill  River. 

All  the  country  to  the  south  and  east  of  tliis,  witllm 
the  line  of  the  progress  that  has  been  described,  is  in- 
tcrspei:sed  by  lakes,  hills,  and  rivers,  and  is  full  of  ani- 
mals, of  the  fur  kind,  as  well  as  the  moose-deer.  Its 
inhabitants  are  the  Knisteneaux  Indians,  who  are  cal-^ 
led  by  the  servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company>at 
York,  their  home-guards. 

The  traders  from  Canada  succeeded  for  several 
years  in  getting  the  largest  proportioaof  their  furs,  till 
the  year  1793,  when  the  servaats  of  that  company 
thought  proper  to  send  people  anK)ngst  them,  (and 
why  they  did  not  do  it  before,  is  best  known  to  them- 
selves) for  the  purpose  of  trade,  and  securing  their  cre- 
dits, which  the  Indians  were  apt  to  forget.  From  the 
short  distance  they  had  to  come,  and  the  quantity  of 
goods  they  supplied,  the  trade  has,  in  a  great  measure, 
reverted  to  them,  as  the  merchants  from  Canada  could 
not  meet  them  upon  equal  terms.  What  added  to  the 
loss  of  the  latter,  was  murder  of  the  one  of  their  tra- 
ders, by  the  Indians,  about  this  period.  Of  these  peo* 
pie  not  above  eighty  mea  have  been  known  to  the  trt^ 


I  'I  ? 


70  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 

ders  from  Canada,  but  they  consist  of  a  much  greater 
number. 

The  Portage  de  Traite,  as  has  beea  already  hinted, 
received  its  name  from  Mr.  Joseph  Frobishcr,  \vh» 
penetrated  into  this  part  of  the  country  from  Cana- 
da, as  early  as  the  years  1774  and  1775,  where  he  met 
with  the  Indians  in  the  spring,  on  their  way  to  ChurchilJ,- 
according  to  annual  custom,  their  canoes  full  of  valua- 
ble furs.  They  traded  with  ]j^im  for  as  many  of  them 
as  his  canoes  could  carry,  and  in  consequence  of  this 
transaction,  the  Portage  received  and  has  since  re- 
tained its  present  appellsttion.  He  also  denominated 
ttese  waters  the  English  River.  The  Missinipi  is  the 
the  name  which  it  received  from  the  Knisteneaux, 
when  tbey  first  came  to  this  country,  and  either  de- 
stroyed or  drove  back  the  natives,  whom  they  held  in 
great  conten^pt,  cnmany  accounts,  but  particularly  for 
their  ignorance  in  hunting  the  beaver,  as  well  as  in  pre- 
paring, stretching,  and  drying  the  skins  of  those  ani- 
mals. And  as  a  sign  of  their  derision,  they  stretched 
the  skin  of  a  frog,  and  hung  it  up  at  the  Portage. 
This  was,  at  that  time,  the  utmost  extent  of  their  con- 
quest or  warfaring  progress  west,  and  is  in  latitude  55, 
25.  north,  and  longitude  103|.  west.  The  river  here, 
which  bears  the  appearance  of  a  lake,  takes  its  name 
from  the  Portage,  and  is  full  of  islands.  It  runs  from 
east  to  west  about  sixteen  miles,  and  is  form  four  to 
five  miles  broad.  Then  succeed  falls  and  cascades 
which  form  what  is  called  the  Grand  Rapid.  From 
thence  there  is  a  succession  of  small  lakes  and  rivers,  in- 
terrupted by  rapids  and  falls,  viz.  the  Portage  de  Bareel, 
the  Portage  de  L'Isle,  and  that  of  the  Rapid  River. 
The  course  is  twenty  miles  from  east-south-east  to 
north-north-west.  The  Rapid  River  Lake  then  runs 
west  five  miles,  and  is  of  an  oval  form.  The  Rapid 
River  is  the  discharge  of  Lake  la  Rouge,  where  there 
has  been  an  establishment  lor  trade  from  the  year 
1782.  Since  the  small- pox  ravaged  these  parts,  there 
have  been  but  few  inhabitants :  these  are  of  the  Knis- 
teneaux .  tribe,  and  do  not  exceed  thirty  men.  The 
direct  navigation  continues  to  be  through  rivers  and 


Beneral  Ittstory  of  the  Fur  Trade.  f  1 

«anals,  interrupted  by  rapids ;  and  the  distance  to  the 
first   Decharge   is  four  miles  in  a  westerly  direction. 
Then  follows  Lake  de  la  Montague,  which  runs  south- 
south-west   three  miles  and  an  half,  then  north  six 
miles,  through  narrow  channels,  formed  by  islands, 
and  continues  north-north-west  five  miles,  to  the  port- 
age of  the  same  name,  which   is  no   sooner  crossed, 
than  another   appears  in  sight,  leading  to  the  Otter 
Lake,  from  whence  it  is  nine  miles  westerly  to  the 
Otter  Portage,  in  latitude  55.  39.     Between  this  and 
tJie   Portage  du  Uiable,   are  several  rapids,  and  the 
distance  three  miles  and  an  half.     Then  succeeds  the 
lake  of  the  same  name,   running  from  south-east  to 
north-west,  five  miles,  and  west  four  miles  and  an 
half.     There  is  then  a  succession  of  small  lakes,  'ra- 
pids, and  falls,  producing  the  Portage  des  Ecors,  Por- 
tage du  Galet,  and  Portage  des  Morts,  the  whole  com- 
prehending a  distance  of  six  miles,  to  the  lake  of  the 
latter  name.     On  the  left  side  is  a  point  covered  with 
human  bones,  the  relics  of  the  small-pox ;  which  cir- 
cumstance gave  the  Portage  and  lake  this  melancholy 
denomination.     Its  course  is  south-west  fifteen  miles, 
while  its  breadth  does  not  exceed  three  miles.     From 
thence  a  rapid  river  leads  to  Portage  de  Hallier,  which 
is  followed  by  Lake  de  L'Isle  d'Ours :  it  is,  however, 
improperly  called  a  lake,  as  it  contains  frequently  im- 
pediments amongst  its  islands,  from  rapids.     There 
is  a  very  dangerous  one  about  the  centre  of  it,  which 
is  named  the  Rapid  qui  ne  parle  point,  or  that  never 
speaks,  from  its  silent  whirlpool-motion.     In  some  of 
the  whirlpools  the  suction  is  so  powerful,  that  they  are 
carefully  avoided.     At  some  distance  from  the  silent 
rapid,  is  IL  narrow  strait,  where  the  Indians  have  paint- 
ed red  figures  on  the  face  of  a  rock,  and  where  it  was 
their  custom  formerly  to  make  an  ofifering  of  some  of 
the  articles  they  had  with  them,   in  their  way  to  and 
from  Churchill.     The  course  in  this  lake,  which  is  ve- 
ry meandering,  maybe  estimated  at  thirty -eight  miles, 
and  is  terminated  by  the  Portage  du  Canot  Tourner, 
from  the  danger  to  which  those  are  subject  who  ven- 
ture to  run  this  rapid.    From  ihencc  a  river  of  one 


f2  Genefal  History  of  the  Fur  Tradk. 

4Aile  and  an  half  north-west  course  leads  to  the  PoN 
tage  de  BouleaU)  and  in  about  half  a  mile  to  the  Pdc. 
tage  des  Epingles*  so  called  from  the  sharpness  of  its 
stones.  Then  follows  the  Lake  des  Souris,  the  direc- 
tion across  which  is  amongst  islands,  north-west  by 
west  jix  miles.  In  this  traverse  is  an  island,  which 
H  rentarkable  for  a  very  large  stone,  in  the  form  of  a 
,  irt,!')  n  which  the  natives  have  painted  the  head  and 
k.  .  ut  or  that  animal ;  and  here  they  also  were  former- 
ly accusk.j.ned  to  ofl'er  sacrifices.  This  lake  is  sepa- 
rated only  by  a  narrow  strait  from  the  Lake  du  Sep- 
pent,  which  runs  north-north-west  seven  miles,*  to  a 
narrow  channel,  that  connects  it  with  another  lake, 
bearing  the  same  name,  and  running  the  same  course 
€or  eleven  miles,  when  the  rapid  of  the  same  deno- 
mination is  entered  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake.  It 
is  to  be  reSmarked  here,  that  for  about  three  or  four 
miles  on  the  north-west  side  of  this  lake,  there  is  a 
high  bank  of  clay  and  sand,  clothed  with  cypress  trees, 
a  circumstance  which  is  not  observable  on  any  lakes 
thitherto  mentioned,  as  they  are  bounded,  particularly 
on  the  north,  by  black  and  grey  rocks.  It  may  also 
be  considered  as  a  most  extraordinary  circumstance, 
that  the  Ghepewyans  go  north-west  from  hence  to  the 
barren  grounds,  which  is  their  own  country^  with- 
out the  assistance  of  canoes ;  as  it  is  well  known 
that  in  every  other  pait  which  has  beeTi  described, 
from  Cumberland  house,  the  country  is  broken  on  d- 
tlier  side  of  the  direction  to  a  great  extent:  so  that  a 
traveller  could  not  go  at  right  angles  with  any  of  the 
Mraters  already  mentioned,  without  meeting  with  others 
in  every  eight  or  ten  miles.  This  will  also  be  found 
to  be  very  much  the  case  in  proceeding  to*Portage  la 
Loche. 

The  last  mentioned  rapid  is  upwards  of  three  miles 
long,  north-west  ly  west;  there  is,  however,  no  car- 
rying, as  the  line  and  poles  are  sufficient  to  drag  and 
set  the  canoe  against  the  current.  Lake  Croche  is  then 
crossed  in  a  westerly  direction  of  six  miles,  though  its 
whole  length  may  be  twice  that  distance  ;  after  which 
It  contracts  to  a  river  that  runs  wester^  for  ten  lAlles* 


General  Wstory  of  the  Fur  Trade*  f  5 

when  it  forms  a  bend«  which  is  left  to  the  south,  and 
entering  a  portion  of  its  waters  called  the  Grass  Ri- 
ver, whose  meandering  course  is  about  six  miles,  but 
in  a  direct  line  not  more  than  half  that  length,  where 
it  receives  its  waters  from  the  fcXeat  river,  which  then 
runs  westerly  eleven  miles  before  it  forms  the  Knee 
Lake,  whose  direction  is  to  the  north  of  west.  It  is 
full  of  islands  for  eighteen  miles,  and  its  greatest  ap- 
parent breadth  is  not  more  than  five  miles.  The  port- 
age of  the  same  name  is  severfil  hundred  yards  '  ;)ng, 
and  over  lai'ge  stones.  Its  latitude  is  55.  50.  an  .  h  > 
gitude  106.  ao.  Two  miles  further  north  is  tb-.  cc.' 
niencement  of  the  Croche  Rapid,  which  is  a  sacces- 
sion  of  cascades  for  about  three  miles,  making  a  bend 
due  south  to  the  Lake  du  Primeau,  whose  course  is 
various,  and  through  islands,  tp  the  distance  of  about 
fifteen  miles.  The  banks  of  this  lake  are  low,  stony, 
and  marshy,  whose  grass  and  rushes  affoVd  shelter  and 
food  to  great  numbers  of  wild  fowl.  At  its  western 
extremity  is  Portage  la  Puise,  from  whence  the  river 
takes  a  meandering  course,  widening  and  contracting 
at  intervals,  and  is  much  interrupted  by  rapids.  Af- 
ter a  westerly  course  of  twenty  miles,  it  reaches  Por- 
tage Pellet.  From  hence,  in  the  course  of  seven 
miles,  are  three  rapids,  to  which  succeeds  the  Shagoi- 
na  Lake,  which  may  be  eighteen  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence. Then  Shagoina  strait  and  rapid  lead  into  the 
Lake  of  Ide  a  la  Croise,  in  which  the  course  is  south 
twenty  miles,  and  south-west  fourteen  miles,  to  the 
Point  au  Sable  ;  opposite  to  which  is  the  discbarge  of 
the  Beaver-river,  bearing  South  six  miles:  the  lake  in 
the  distance  run,  does  not  exceed  twelve  miles  in  its 
greatest  breadth.  It  now  turns  west-south-west,  the 
Isle  a  la  Crosse  being  on  the  south,  and  the  main  land 
on  the  north  ;  and  it  clears  the  one  and  the  other^in  the 
distance  of  three  miles,  the  water  presenting  an  open 
horizon  to  right  and  left:;nisa  on  the  left  formed  by  a 
deep  narrow  bay,  about  ten  leagues  in  depth :  and  that 
to  the  right  by  what  is  called  la  Riviere  Creuse,  or 
Deep  River,  being  a  canal  of  still  water,  which  is  here 
four  miles  wide.    On  following  the  last  course,  Isle  a 

Q 


H  General  History  of  the  Fur  Tradi* 

la  Crosse  Fort  appears  on  a  low  isthmus,  at  the  distance 
of  five  miles,  and  is  in  latitude  55.  25.  north,  and  lon- 
gitude 107.  48.  west. 

This  lake  and  fort  take  their  names  from  the  island 
just  mentioned,  which  as  has  been  already  observed,  re- 
ceived  its  denomination  from  the  game  of  the  cross, 
which  forms  a  principal  amusement  among  the  natives. 

The  situation  of  this  lake,  the  abundance  of  the  fin- 
est  fish  in  the  world  to  be  found  in  its  waters,  the  rich- 
ness  of  its  surrounding  banks  and  forests,  in  moose  and 
fallow  deer,  with  the  vast  numbers  of  the  smaller  tribes 
of  animals,  whose  skins  are  precious,  and  the  numer- 
ous flocks  of  wild  fowl  that  frequent  it  in  the  spring 
and  fall,  make  it  a  most  desirable  spot  for  the  constant 
residence  of  some,  and  the  occasional  rendezvous  of 
others  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  particularly 
of  the  Kuis|:eneaux. 

Who  the  original  people  were  that  were  driven  from 
it,  when  conquered  by  the  Knisteneaux  is  not  now 
known,  as  not  a  single  vestige  remains  of  them.  The 
latter,  and  the  Chepewyans,  are  the  only  people  that 
have  been  known  here ;  and  it  is  evident  that  the  last- 
mentioned  consider  themselves  as  strangers,  and  sel- 
dom remain  longer  than  three  or  four  years,  without 
visiting  their  relations  and  friends  in  the  barren 
grounds,  which  they  term  their  native  country.  They 
were  for  some  time  treated  by  the  Knisteneaux  as  ene- 
mies ;  who  now  allow  them  to  hunt  to  the  north  of 
the  track  which  has  been  described,  from  Fort  du 
Traite  upwards,  but  when  they  occasionally  meet  them, 
they  insist  on  contributions,  and  frequently  punish  re- 
sitance  with  their  arms.  This  is  sometimes  done  at 
the  forts,  or  places  of  trade,  but  then  it  appears  to  be 
a  voluntary  gift.  A  treat  of  rum  is  expected  on  the 
occasion,  which  the  Chepewyans  on  no  other  account 
.ever  purchase  ;  and  those  only  who  have  had  frequent 
intercourse  with  the  Knisteneaux  have  any  inclination 
to  drink  it. 

When  the  Europeans  first  penetrated  into  this 
country,  in  1777,  the  people  of  both  tribes  were  nu 
Hierous,  but  the  small-pox  was  fatal  to  them  all,  so  that 


rivers  a 


General  Hktory  of  the  Fur  Trade*  75 

there  does  not  exist  of  the  one  at  present,  more  than 
forty  resident  families  ;  and  the  other  has  been  from 
about  th'rty  to  two  hundred  families.  These  numbers 
are  applicable  to  the  constant  and  less  ambitious  inha- 
bitants, who  are  satisfied  with  the  quiet  possession  of 
a  country  aHbrding,  witliout  risk  or  much  trouble,  eve-" 
ry  thing  necessary  to  their  comfort ;  for  since  traders 
liave  spread  themselves  over  it,  it  is  no  more  the  ren- 
dezvous of  the  errant  Knisteheaux,  part  of  whom  used 
anniftilly  to  return  thither  from  the  country  of  the 
IJeaver  River,  which  they  had  explored  to  its  source 
in  their  war  and  hunting  excursions,  and  as  far  as  the 
Saskatchiwine,  where  they  sometimes  met  people  of 
their  own  nation,  who  had  prosecuted  similar  con- 
quests up  that  river.  In  that  country  they  found  abun- 
dance of  fish  and  animals,  such  as  have  been  already- 
described,  with  the  addition  of  the  buffaloes,  who  i*ange 
in  the  partial  patches  of  meadow  scattered  along  tlie 
rivers  and  lakes.  From  thence  they  returned  in  the 
spring  to  the  friends  whom  they  had  left ;  and  at  the 
same  time  met  with  others  who  had  penetrated,  with 
the  same  designs,  into  the  Athabasca  country,  which 
will  be  described  hereafter. 

The  spring  was  the  period  of  this  joyful  meeting, 
when  their  time  was  occupied  in  feasting,  dancing, 
and  other  pastimes,  which  were  occasionally  suspend- 
ed for  sacrifice,  and  religious  solemnity  :  while  the; 
narratives  of  their  travels,  and  the  history  of  their 
wars,  amused  and  animated  the  festival.  The  time 
of  rejoicing  was  but  short,  and  was  soon  interrupted 
by  the  necessary  preparations  for  their  annual  jour- 
ney to  Churchill,  to  exchange  their  furs  for  such  Eu- 
ropean articles  as  were  now  become  necessary  to 
them.  The  shortness  of  the  seasons,  and  the  great 
length  of  their  way  requiring  the  utmost  dispatch,  the 
most  active  men  of  the  tribe,  with  their  youngest  women, 
and  a  few  of  their  children  undertook  the  voyage,  un- 
der the  direction  of  some  of  their  chiefs,  following  the 
waters  already  described,  to  their  discharge  at  Churchill 
Factory,  which  are  called,  as  has  already  been  observ- 
ed, the  Missinipi,  or  Great  Waters.    There  they  re- 


H  General  Hittory  of  the  Fur  Trade, 

mained  no  longer  than  was  sufficient  to  barter  their 
.conimodities,  v/ith  a  supernumerary  day  or  two  to  gru- 
tiiy  themselvih  with  the  indulgence  of  spirituous  ii- 
tjuorsc  At  the  same  time  the  inconsiderable  quantity 
they  could  purchase  to  carry  away  with  them,  tor  a  rt- 
gale  with  their  friends,  was  held  sacred,  and  reserved 
to  heighten  the  enjoyment  of  their  return  home,  when 
the  amusementsy  festivity,  and  religious  solemnities  of 
the  spring  were  repeated*  Thfc  usual  time  appropriat- 
ed to  these  convrivialities  being  completed,  they  sepa* 
rated,  to  pursue  their  different  objects ;  and  if  they 
were  determined  to  go  to  war,  they  madv  the  necessa- 
fy  arrangements  for  their  future  operations. 

But  we  must  now  renew  the  progress  of  the  route. 
It  is  not  more  than  two  miles  from  Isle  a  la  Crosse 
Port,  to  a  point  of  land  which  forms  a  cheek  of  that 
part  of  the  l^ke  called  the  Riviere  Crease,  which  pre- 
serves the  breadth  already  mentioned  for  upwards  of 
twenty  miles  ;  then  contracts  to  about  two,  for  the  dis- 
tance of  ten  miles  more,  when  it  opens  to  Lake  Clear, 
which  is  very  \vide,and  commands  an  open  horizon,keep- 
ingthewest  shore  for  six  miles.  The  whole  of  the  dis- 
tance mentioned  is  about  north-west,  when  by  a  narrow, 
crooked  channel,  turning  to  the  south  of  west,  the  en- 
try made  into  Lake  du  Boeuf,  which  is  contracted  near 
the  middle,  by  a  projecting  sandy  point ;  independent 
of  which,  it  may  be  described  as  from  six  to  twelve 
miles  in  breadth,  thirty-six  miles  long,  and  in  a  north- 
west direction.  At  the  north-west  end,  in  latitude  56. 
8.  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  river  la  I^oche,  which, 
in  the  fall  of  the  year,  is  very  shallow,  and  navigated 
with  difficulty  even  by  half-laden  canoes.  Its  water 
is  not  sufficient  to  form  strong  rapids,  though  froni  its 
rocky  bottom  the  canoes  are  frequently  in  considera- 
ble danger.  Including  its  meanders,  the  course  of  this 
river  may  be  computed  at  twenty-four  miles,  and  re- 
ceives its  first  waters  from  the  lake  of  the  same  name, 
which  is  about  twenty  miles  long,  and  six  wide  j  into 
which  a  small  river  flows »  sufficient  to  bear  loaded  ca- 
noes, for  about  a  mile  and  an  half,  where  the  nav  igation 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


77 


ceases;  ant!  the  canoes,  with  their  lading,  are  earned 
over  the  Portage  la  Loche  for  thirteen  miles. 

This  Portage  is  the  ridge  that  divides  the  waters 
which  discharge  themselves  into  Hudson'?  Bay,  from 
those  that  flow  into  the  northern  ocean,  and  is  in  lati- 
tude 56.  20.  and  longitude  109,  Ifl.'West.  It  runs 
south  west  until  it  loses  its  local  height  between  the 
Saskatchiwine  and  the  Elk  Rivers ;  close  on  th«  bank 
of  the  former,  in  latitude  53.  36.  north,  longitude  113. 
45.  west,  it  may  be  traced  in  an  easterly  direction  to- 
ward latitude  58.  12.  north,  and  longitude  103^.  west, 
when  it  appears  to  take  its  course  due  north,  and  may 
probably  reach  the  Frozen  Seas. 

From  Lake  le  Souris,  the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  - 
lakes  display  a  smaller  portion  of  solid  rock.  The 
land  is  low  and  stony,  intermixed  with  a  light,  sandy- 
soil,  and  clothed  with  wood.  That  of  the  Beaver  Ri- 
Tcris  of  a  more  productive  quality:  but  no  part  of  it 
has  ever  been  cultivated  by  the  natives  or  Europeans, 
except  a  small  garden  at  the  Isle  a  la  Crosse,  which 
well  repaid  the  labor  bestowed  upon  it. 

The  Portage  la  Loche  is  of  a  level  surface,  in  some 
parts  abounding  with  stones,  but  in  general  it  is-  an 
entire  sand,  and  covered  with  the  cypress,  the  pine,  the 
spruce,  fir, and  other  trees  natural  toits  soil.     Within 
three  miles  of  the  north-west  termination,  there  is  a 
small  round  lake,  whose  diameter  does  not  exceed  a 
mile,  and  which  affords  a  trifling  respite  to  the  labor  of 
currying.     Within  a  mile  of  the  termination  of  the 
Portage  is  a  very  steep  precipice,  whose  ascent  and 
descent  anpears  to  be  equally  impracticable  in  any  way, 
as  it  cons  ^ts  of  a  succession  of  eight  hills,  some  of 
which  are  almost  perpendicular;  nevertheless,the  Ca- 
nadians conirive  to  surmount  all  these  difficulties,  even 
with  their  canoes  and  lading. 

This  precipice,  which  rises  upwards  of  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  plain  beneath  it,  commands  a  most  ex- 
tensive, romantic,  and  ravishing  prospect.  From 
thence  the  eye  looks  down  on  the  course  of  the  little 
river,  by  some  called  the  Swan  River,  and  by  others, 
tile  Clear-Water  and  Pelican  River,  beautifully  mean- 

G2 


rs  General  ISstofy  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


'A^i""-' 


dering  for  upwards  of  thirty  miles.  The  valley,  which 
is  at  once  refreshed  and  adorned  by  it,  is  about  three 
miles  in  breadth,  and  is  confined  by  two  lofty  ridges 
of  equal  height,  displaying  a  most  delightful  inter- 
mixture of  wood  and  lawn,  and  stretching  on  until  the 
blue  mist  obscures  the  prospect.  Some  parts  of  the 
inclining  heights  are  covered  with  stately  forests,  re- 
lieved by  promontories  of  the  finest  verdure,  whcire 
the  elk  and  buffalo  find  pasture.  These  are  contrast- 
ed  by  spots  where  fire  has  destroyed  the  woods,  and 
left  a  dreary  void  behind  it.  Nor,  when  I  beheld  this 
wonderful  display  of  uncultivated  nature,  was  the 
moving  scenery  of  human  occupation  wanting  to  com- 
plete the  picture.  From  this  elevated  situation  J.  be- 
held my  peoplie,  diminished,  as  it  were,  to  half  their 
size,  employed  in  pitching  their  tents  in  a  charming 
meadow,  and  among  the  cunoes,  which,  being  turned 
upon  their  sides,  presented  their  reddened  bottoms  in 
contrast  with  the  surrounding  verdure.  At  the  same 
time,  the  process  of  gumming  them  produced  nume- 
rous small  spires  of  smoke,  which,  as  they  rose,  en- 
livened the  scene,  and  at  length  blended  with  the 
larger  columns  that  ascended  from  the  fires  where  the 
suppers  were  preparing.  It  was  in  the  month  of 
September  when  I  enjoyed  a  scene,  ot  which  I  do  not 
presume  to  give  an  adequate  description ;  and  as  it 
was  the  rutting  season  of  the  elk,  the  whistling  of 
that  animal  was  heard  in  all  the  variety  which  the 
echoes  could  a^ord  it. 

This  river,  which  waters  and  reflects  such  enchant- 
ing scenery,  runs,  including  its  windings,  upwards  of 
eighty  miles,  when  it  discharges  itself  in  the  Elk 
River,  according  to  the  denomination  of  the  natives, 
but  commonly  called  by  the  white  people,  the  Atha^ 
basca  River,  in  latitude  56..  42.  north. 

At  a  small  distance  from  Portage  la  Loche,  several 
carrying-places  interrupt  the  navigation  of  the  river ; 
about  the  middle  of  which  are  some  mineral  springs, 
whose  margins  are  covered  with  sulphureous  incrusta- 
tions. At  the  junction  or  fork,  the  Elk  River  is  about 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  bi^adth)  and  runs  in  a  stea- 


General  Hiaiot^y  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


79 


dy  current,  sometimes  contracting,  but  never  increas* 
ing  its  channel,  until,  after  receiving  several  small 
streams,  it  discharges  itself  into  the  Lake  of  the  Hills, 
in  latitiKle  58.  S 6.  north.  At  about  twenty-four  miles 
from  the  fork,  are  some  bitumenous  fountains,  into 
which  a  pole  of  twenty  feet  long  maybe  inserted  with- 
out the  least  resistance.  The  bitumen  is  in  a  fluid 
state,  and  when  mixed  with  gum,  or  the  resinous  sub- 
stance collected  from  the  spruce  fir,  serves  to  gum 
the  canoes.  In  its  heated  state  it  emits  a  smell  like 
that  of  sea-coal.  The  banks  of  the  river,  which  are 
there  very  elevated,  discover  veins  of  the  same  bitu- 
menous quality.  At  a  small  distance  from  the  fork, 
houses  have  been  erected  for  the  convenience  of  trad- 
ing with  a  party  of  the  Knisteneaux,  who  visit  the 
adjacent  country  for  the  purpose  of  hunting. 

At  the  distance  of  about  forty  miles  from  the  lake, 
is  the  Old  Establishment,  which  has  been  already  m^n- 
tioned,  as  formed  by  Mr.  Pond  in  the  year  1778-9, 
and  which  was  the  only  one  in  this  p  .1  of  the  world, 
until  the  year  I'^BS.  In  the  year  1788,  it  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  Lake  of  the  Hills,  and  formed  on  a  point 
on  its  southern  side,  at  about  eight  miles  from  the 
discharge  of  the  river.  It  was  named  Fort  Chepewy- 
an,  and  is  in  laititude  58.  38.  north,  longitude  1 10. 
26.  west,  and  much  better  situated  for  trade  and  fish- 
ing, as  the  people  here  have  recourse  to  water  for 
their  support. 

This  being  the  place  wh*.:h  I  made  my  head-quar- 
ters for  eight  yeArs,  and  from  whence  I  took  my  de- 
parture, on  both  my  expeditions,  I  shall  give  som« 
account  of  it,  with  the  manner  of  carrying  on  t«Vie 
trade  there,  and  other  circumstances  connected  with  it. 

The  laden  canoes  which  leave  Lake  la  Pluie  about 
the  first  of  August,  do  not  arrive  here  till  the  latter 
end  of  September,  or  the  beginning  of  October,  when 
a  necessary  proportion  of  them  is  dispatched  up  the 
Peace  River  to  trade  with  the  Beaver  and  Rocky-Moun- 
tain Indians.— Others  are  sent  to  the  Slave  River  and 
Lake,  or  beyond  them,  and  traffic  with  the  inhabitants 
of  that  country.     A  small  p^rt  of  them,  if  not  left  at 


80  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


«:: 


-:l« 


■1 


the  Fork  of  the  Elk  River,  return  thither  for  the  Knis- 
teneaux,  while  the  rest  of  the  people  and  merchandize 
remain  here  to  carry  on  trade  with  the  C'hcpewyans. 
Here  have  1  arrived  with  ninety  or  an  hundred  men 
without  any  provision  for  their  sustenance  ;  for  wliat- 
ver  quantity  might  have  been  obtained  from  the   na- 
tives during  the  summer,  it  could  not  be  more  than 
sufficient  for  the   people  dispatched  to  their  different 
posts  ;  imd  even  if  there  were  a  casual  superfluity,  it 
was  absolutely  necessary  to  preserve  it  untouched,  for 
the  demands  of  the  spring.     The  whole  dependence, 
therefore,  of  those  who  remained,  was  on  the   lake, 
and  fishing  implements  for  the  means  of  our  support. 
The  nets  are  sixty  fathoms  in  length,  when  set,  and 
contain  fifteen  meshes  of  five  inches  in  depth.     The 
manner  of  using  them  is  as   follows :   A    small  stone 
and  wooden   buoy   are    fastened  to  the  side-line    op- 
posite to   e^kh    other,  at   about  the   distance   of  two 
fathoms :  when  the   net   is   carefully  thrown   into  the 
water,  the  stone  sinks  it  to  the  bottom,  while  the  buoy 
keeps  it  at  its  full  extent,  and  it  is  secured  in  its  situ- 
ation by  a  stone  at  either  end.     The  nets  are   visited 
every  day,  and  taken  out  every  other  day  to  be  clean- 
ed and  dried.     This  is  a  very   ready  operation  when 
the  waters'are  not  frozen,  but  when  the  frost  has  set 
in,  and  the  ice  has   acquired  its   greatest  thickness, 
which  is  sometimes  as  much  as  five  feet,  holes  are  cut 
in  it  at  the  distance  of  thirty  feet  from  each  other,  to 
the  full  length  of  the  net ;  one  of  them  is  larger  than 
the  rest,  being  generally  about  four  feet   square,  and 
is  called  the  bason :  by  means  of  them,  and  poles  of 
a  proportionable   length,  the  nets  are  placed  in  and 
drawn  out  of  the  water.     The  setting  of  hooks   and 
lines  is  so  simple  an  employment  as  to  render  a  des- 
cription unnecessary.     The  white  fish  are  the  princi- 
pal object  of  pursuit :  they  spawn  in  the  fall  of  the 
year,  and,  at  about  the  setting  -in   of  the  hard  frost, 
crowd  in  shoals  to  the  shallow  water,  when  as  many 
as  possible  are  taken,  in  order  that  a  portion  of  them 
may  be  laid  by  in  the  frost  to  provide  against  the  scar- 
city of  winter  ;  as  during  that  season,  the  fisli  cf  eve- 


the  Knis- 
rchaHclize 
pewyans. 
rlred  men 
for  wliat- 
[1  the  na- 
iiore  than 

different 
rfluity,  it 
iched,  for 
ieiidencc, 
the  lake, 
•  support. 
I  set,  and 
th.  The 
lall  stone 
-line  op- 
e   of  two 

into  the 
the  buoy 

I  its  situ- 
e  visited 
be  clean- 
ion  when 
t  has  set 
lickness, 

are  cut 

other,  to 

■gev  than 

kare,  and 

poles  of 

in  and 

10  ks   and 

iv  a  des- 

e  princi- 

II  of  the 
rd  frost, 
as  many 
of  them 
the  scar- 
1  of  eve- 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


81 


ry  description  decrease  in  the  lakes,  if  they  do  not  al* 
tof^ether  disappear.  Some  have  supposed,  that  during 
thib  period  they  are  stationary,  or  assume  an  inactive 
state.  If  there  should  be  any  intervals  of  warm  v/ea- 
ther  during  the  fall,  it  is  necessary  to  suspend  the  fish 
by  the  tail,  though  they  are  not  so  good  as  those  which 
are  altogether  preserved  by  the  frost.  In  this  state 
they  remain  to  the  beginning  of  April,  when  they 
have  been  found  as  sweet  as  when  they  were  caught'*. 

Thus  do  these  voyagers  live,  year  after  year,  eiw 
tiroly  upon  fish,  without  even  the  quickening  flavoar 
of  salt,  or  the  variety  of  any  farinaceous  root  or  vef  ;o- 
table.  Salt,  however,  if  their  habits  had  not  rendered 
it  unnecessary,  might  be  obtained  in  this  country  to 
the  westward  of  the  Peace  River,  vi'here  it  loses  its 
name  in  that  of  the  Slave  R'"er,  from  the  nume- 
rous salt-ponds  and  springs  to  o«.  found  there,  which 
will  supply  in  any  quantity,  in  a  state  of  concretion, 
and  perfectly  white  and  clean.  V/hen  the  Indians  pass 
that  way,  they  bring  a  small  quantity  to  the  fort,  with 
other  articles  of  traffic. 

During  a  short  period  of  the  spring  and  fall,  <5reat 
immbers  of  wild  fowl  frequent  this  country,  vhich 
prove  a  very  gratifying  food  after  such  a  long  priva- 
tion of  flesh-meat.  It  i^  remarkable,  however,  that 
the  Canadian'  who  frequent  the  Peace,  Saskatchi- 
wine,  and  Assiniboin  rivers,  and  live  altogether  on  ve- 
nison, have  a  less  healthy  appearance  than  those  whose 
sustenance  is  oblaiaed  from  the  waters.  At  the  same 
time  the  scurvy  is  wholly  unknown  among  them. 

In  the  fall  of  the  year  the  natives  meet  the  traders 
at  the  forts,  where  they  barter  the  furs  or  provisions 
which  they  may  have  procured :  they  then  obtain 
credit,  and  proceed  to  hunt  the  beavers,  and  do  not 
return  till  the  beginning  of  the  year;  when  they  are 
again  fitted  out  in  the  same  manner,  and  come  back 
the  latter  end  of  March,  or  the  beginning  of  April. 
They  f'.re  now  unwilling  to  repair  to  tlie  beaver  hunt 
until  the  waters  are  clear  of  ice,  that  they  may    kill 

•  This  fishery  requires  tlie  most  unremitting  attention,  as  the  voyaging  Canadi- 
ans arc  equally  indolent,  cxtriivagant,  ami  tiiii>r»videat,  when  left  in  thcjBsclve*, 
and  rival  tuc  savage ;  in  a  H<;alect  of  tue  morrow. 


■'i^^i*i 


V   ^■.'•■■l' 


nm<-r : 


lit 


W 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


them  with  fire-a^ms,  which  the  Chepewyans  are  averse 
lo  employ'.  The  major  part  of  the  latter  return  to  the 
bai  ren  grounds,  and  live  during  the  sunmier  with  their 
relation .i  and  friends  in  the  enjoyment  of  that  plenty 
which  is  derived  from  numerous  herds  of  deer.  But 
those  of  that  tribe  who  are  most  partial  to  these  de- 
serts, cannot  remain  there  in  winter,  and  they  are 
obliged,  with  the  deer,  to  take  shelter  in  the  woods 
during  that  rigorous  season,  when  they  contrive  to 
kill  a  few  beavers,  and  send  them  by  young  men,  to 
exchange  fov  iron  utensils  and  ammunition. 

Till  the  year  1782,  the  people  of  Athabasca  sent  or 
carried  their  furs  regularly  to  Fort  Churchill,  Hudson's 
Bay  ;  and  some  of  them  have,  since  that  time,  repair- 
ed thither,  notwithstanding  they  could  hi  .  provided 
themselves  with  all  the  necessaries  which  ;hey  requir- 
ed. The  difference  of  the  price  set  on  goods  here  and 
at  ihat  factory,  made  it  an  object  with  ihe  Chepewyans 
to  imdertake  a  journey  of  five  or  six  months,  in  the 
course  of  which  tliey  were  reduced  to  ihe  most,  pain- 
ful extremities,  and  often  lost  their  live^  from  hunger 
and  fatigue.  At  present,  however,  this  trafllic  is  in 
a  great  measure  dis«uontinued,  as  they  were  obliged  to 
expend  in  the  co  ju  of  their  journey,  that  very  am- 
munition which  Wi'  -  ..i  most  alluring  object. 


Some  Account  of  the  Knisteneaux  Indians, 


JL  iiEsE  people  are  spread  over  a  vast  extent  of  coun- 
try. Their  language  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  people 
who  inhabit  the  coast  of  British  America  on  the  At- 
lantic, with  the  exception  of  the  Esquimaux,*  and 
continues  along  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  the  gulph 
and  buiiks  of  St.  Laurence  to  Montreal.  The  line 
then  followii  the    UtaAvas  river  to  its  source  ;  and  con- 

*  Tl.e  imilanty  Iwtween  their  lan^juage,  and  that  of  the  Algonqiiins,  is  an  une- 
fjuivuialjjroof  that  they  are  Uie  waic  people.  Specimen^  ut  thejr  icspeciive  tongues 
wiUbclicreaUergivcji. 


c  ;  and  con- 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,  83 

tinues  from  thence  nearly  west  along  the  high  lands 
vhich  divide  the  waters  that  fall  into  Lake  Superior 
and  Hudson's  Bay.  It  then  proceeds  till  it  strikes  the 
middle  part  of  the  river  Winipic,  following  that  water 
through  the  Lake  Winipic,  to  the  discharge  of  the 
Saskatchiwine  into  it ;  from  thence  it  accompanies  the 
latter  to  Fort  George,  when  the  line,  striking  by  the 
head  of  the  Beaver  River  to  the  Elk  River,  runs  along 
its  banks  to  its  discharge  in  the  Lake  of  the  Hills  ; 
from  which  it  may  be  carried  back  east,  to  the  Isle  a 
la  Crosse,  and  so  on  to  Churchill  by  the  IMlssinipi. 
The  whole  of  the  tract  between  this  line  and  Hudson's 
Bay  and  Straits,  (except  that  of  the  Esquimaux  in  the 
latter)  may  be  said  to  be  exclusively  the  country  of  the 
Knisteneaux.  Some  of  them,  indeed,  have  penetrated 
further  west  and  south  to  the  Red  River,  to  the  south 
of  Lake  Winipic,  and  the  south  branch  of  the  Sas- 
katchiwine. 

They  are  of  a  moderate  stature,  well  pioportioned, 
and  of  great  activity.  Examples  of  deformity  are  sel- 
dom to  be  seen  among  them.  Their  complexion  is  of 
a  copper  color,  and  their  hair  black,  which  is  common 
to  all  the  natives  of  North  America.  It  is  cut  in  va- 
rious forms,  according  to  the  fancy  of  the  several 
tribes,  and  by  some  is  left  in  the  long,  lank,  flow  of  na- 
ture. They  very  generally  extract  their  beards,  and 
both  sexes  manifest  a  disposition  to  pluck  the  haii  from 
every  partof  the  body  and  limbs.  Their  eyes  are  black, 
keen,  and  penetrating  ;  their  countenance  open  and 
agreeable,  and  it  is  a  principal  object  of  their  vanity 
to  give  every  possible  decoration  to  their  persons.  A 
material  article  in  their  toilets  is  vermilion,  which  they 
contrast  with  their  native  blue,  white,  and  brown 
earths,  to  which  charcoal  is  frequently  added. 

Their  dress  is  at  once  simple  and  commodious.  It 
consists  of  tight  Icggins,  reaching  near  the  hip  :  a 
strip  of  cloth  or  leather,  called  assian,  about  a  foot 
wiu.v;  xnr'  five  feet  long,  whose  ends  are  drawn  inv/ards, 
and  hane  behind  and  before,  over  a  be|t  tied  round  the 
waivt  ffi  Ihat  purpose  :  a  close  vest  or  shirt  reaching 
<lown  to  the  former  garment,  and   cinctured   with  a 


S4  General  Uistory  of  the  Fur  Trade, 

broad  strip  of  parchment  fastened  vith  thongs  behind ; 
and  a  cap  for  the  head,  consisting  of  a  piece  of  fur,  or 
^mall  akin,  with  the  brush  of  the  animal  as  a  suspend* 
ed  ornament:  a  kind  of  robe  is  thrown  occasionally 
over  tlie  whole  of  the  dress,  and  serves  both  night 
and  day.  These  articles,  with  the  addition  of  shoes 
and  mittens,  constitute  the  variety  of  their  apparel. 
The  materials  vary  according  to  the  season,  and  con- 
sist  of  dressed  moose-skin,  beaver  prepared  with  the 
fur,  or  European  woollens.  The  leather  is  neatly 
painted,  and  fancifully  worked  in  some  parts  with  por- 
cupine quills,  and  moose-deer  hair:  the  shirts  and 
leggins  are  also  adorned  with  fringe  and  tassels ;  nor 
are  the  shoes  and  mittens  without  somewhat  of  appro- 
priate decoration,  and  worked  with  a  considerable  de- 
gree of  skijl  and  taste.  These  habiliments  are  put 
on,  however,  as  fancy  or  convenience  suggests  ;  and 
they  will  sometim<?s  proceed  to  the  chase  in  the  se- 
verest frost,  covered  only  with  the  slightest  of  them. 
Their  head-dresses  are  composed  of  the  feathers  of 
the  swan,  the  eagle,  and  other  birds..  The  teeth, 
horns,  and  claws  of  different  animals,  are  also  the  oc- 
casional ornaments  of  the  head  and  neck.  Their  hair, 
however  arranged,  is  always  besmeared  with  grease. 
The  making  of  every  article  of  dress  is  a  female  occu- 
pation ;  and  the  women,  though  by  no  means  matten- 
tive  to  the  decoration  of  their  own  persons,  appear  to 
have  a  still  greater  degree  of  pride  in  attending  lo  the 
appearances  of  the  men,  whose  faces  are  painted  with 
more  care  than  those  of  the  women. 

The  female  dress  is  formed  of  ihe  same  materials 
as  those  of  the  other  sex,  but  of  e,  different  make  J«nd 
arrangement.  Their  shoes  are  co.-nmonly  plain,  *iid 
their  leggins  gartered  beneath  the  knees.  The  coaJt) 
or  body  coveiing,  falh  downs  to  the  middle  of  tlic  legj 
and  is  fastened  over  the  shoulders  with  cords,  a  flap  or 
cape  turning  down  about  eight  inches,  both  before  and 
behind,  and  agreeably  ornamented  with  quill-work 
and  fringe  ;  the  bottom  is  also  fringed,  and  fancifully 
painted  as  high  as  the  knee.  As  it  is  very  loose,  it  is 
inclosed  round  the  waist  with  a  stiff  belt,  decorated 


General  Historij  of  the  Fur  Tt.ide* 


85 


with  tassels,  and  fastened  behind.    The  arms  are  co- 
vered to  the  wrist,  with  detached  sleeves,  which  are 
sewed  as  fur  as  the  bend  of  the  arm  j  from  thence  they 
are  drawn  up  to  the  neck,  aiid  the  corners  of  them 
full  down  behind  as  low  as  the  waist.     The  cap,  when 
they  wear  one,  consists  of  a  certain  quantity   of  lea- 
ther or  cloth,  sewed  at  one  end,  by  which  means  it  is 
kept  on  the  head,  and,  hanging  dov/n  the  back,  is  fas, 
tened  to  the  belt,  as  well  as  under  the  chin.     The  up- 
per  garment  is  a  robe  like  that  worn  by  the  men. 
Their  hair  is  divided  on  the  crown,  and  tiea  behind,  or 
sometimes  fastened  in  large  knots  over  the  ears.  They 
arc  fond  of  European  articles^  and  prefer  them  to  their 
own  native  commodities.    Their  ornaments  consist,  in 
common  with  all  savages,  in  bracelets,  rings,  and  si- 
milar baubles.     Some  of  the  women  tatoo  three  per- 
pendicular lines,  which    are  sometimes  double :  pne 
from  the  centre  of  the  chin  to  that  of  the  under  lip,  and 
-one  parallel  on  either  side  to  the  corner  of  the  mouth* 
Of  all  the  nations  which  I  have  seen  on  this  conti- 
nent, the  Knisteneaux  women  are  the  most  comely. 
Their  figure  is  generally  well  proportioned,  and  the 
regularity  of  their  features  would  be  acknowledged  by 
the  more  civilized  people  of  Europe.     Their  complex- 
ion has  less  of  that  dark  tinge  which  is  common  to 
those  savages  who  have  less  cleaned  habits. 

These  people  are,  in  general,  subject  to  few  disor- 
ders. The  lues  venerea,  however,  is  a  common  com- 
plaint, but  cured  by  the  application  of  simples,  with, 
whose  virtues  they  appear  to  be  well  acquainted. 
They  are  also  subject  to  fluxes,  and  pains  In  the  breast, 
which  some  have  attributed  to  the  very  cold  and  ketn 
air  which  they  inhale ;  but  I  should  imagine  that  these 
complaints  must  frequently  proceed  from  their  immo- 
derate indulgence  in  fat  meat  at  their  feasts,  particu- 
larly when  they  have  been  preceded  by  long  fasting. 
They  are  naturally  mild  and  affable,  as  well  as  just 
in  their  dealings,  not  only  among  themselves,  but  with 
strangers.*     They  are  also  generous  and  hospitable, 

*  They  have  been  called  thieves,  but  when  tiiat  viqe  can  with  justice  be  attribu- 
ted to  them,  It  may  be  traced  to  their  cemifiction  with  tlie  civilised  people  who 


come  into  their  country  to  tutiic. 


H 


86  ,         General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


"j; 


ri-t 


Aij" 


■f 


and  good  natured  in  the  extreme,  except  when  then* 
nature  is  perverted  by  the  inllammatory  influence  of 
spirituous  liquors.  To  t^heir  children  they  are  indul- 
gent to  a  fault.  The  father,  though  he  assumes  no 
command  over  them,  ia  ever  anxious  to  instruct  them 
in  all  the  preparatory  qualifications  for  war  and  hunt- 
ing; while  the  mother  is  equally  attentive  to  her 
daughters  in  teaching  them  every  thing  that  is  consi- 
dered as  necessary  to  their  character  and  situation. 
It  does  not  appear  that  the  husband  makes  any  dis- 
tinction between  the  children  of  his  wife,  though  they 
may  be  the  ofVspring  of  diftercnt  fathers.  Illegitima- 
cy '3  only  attached  to  those  who  are  born  before  their 
mothers  have  cohabited  with  any  man  by  the  title  of 
husband. 

It  does  not  appear,  that  chastity  is  considered  by 
them  as  a  virtue  ;  or  that  fidelity  is  believed  to  be  es- 
sential to  the  happiness  of  wedded  life.  Though  it 
sometimes  happens  that  the  infidelity  of  the  wife  is 
punished  by  the  husband  with  the  loss  of  her  hair, 
nose,  and  perhaps  life ;  such  severity  proceeds  from 
its  having  been  practised  without  his  permission  :  for 
n  temporary  interchange  of  wives  is  not  uncommon ; 
and  the  ofler  of  their  persons  is  considered  as  a  neces- 
sary part  of  the  hospitality  due  to  strangers. 

When  a  man  loses  his  wife,  it  is  considered  as  a  du- 
ty to  marry  her  sister,  if  she  has  one  ;  or  he  may,  if 
he  pleases,  have  them  both  at  the  same  time. 

It  will  appear  from  the  fatal  consequences  I  have 
repeatedly  imputed  to  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors, 
that  I  m«re  particularly  considered  these  peoi:)le  as 
having  been,  morally  speaking,  great  sufferers  from 
their  cummunication  with  the  subjects  of  civilived  na- 
tions. At  the  same  time  they  were  not,  in  a  slate  of 
nature,  without  their  vices,  and  some  of  them  of  a 
kind  which  is  the  most  abhorrent  to  cultivaltd  and 
I'eflecting  man.  I  shall  only  observe,  that  incest  and 
bestiality  are  among  them. 

When  a  young  man  marries,-  he  immediately  goes 
to  live  wit»i  the  father  and  mother  of  his  wife,  who 
ireat  him,  .  .vertheless,  as  a  perfect  stranger,  until 


General  Histonj  of  the  Fur  Trade, 


87 


after  the  birth  of  his  first  child  :  he  then  attaches  him- 
self more  to  them  tlian  his  own  parents  ;  and  his  wife 
no  longer  gives  him  any  other  denomination  than  that 
of  the  father  of  her  child. 

The  profession  of  the  men  in  war  and  hunting,  and 
the  more  active  scene  of  their  duty  is  the  field  of  bat- 
tl'i,  and  the  chase  in  the  woods.  They  also  spear 
lish,  but  the  management  of  the  nets  is  left  to  the  wo- 
men. The  females  of  this  nation  are  in  the  same  sub- 
ordinate state  with  those  of  all  other  savage  tribes  ;  but 
the  severity  of  their  labor  is  much  diminished  by  their 
sitimtion  on  the  banks  of  lakes  and  rivers,  where  they 
employ  canoes.  In  the  winter,  when  the  waters  are 
frozen,  thjy  make  their  journies,  which  £tl'e  never  of 
any  great  length,  with  sledges  drawn  by  dogs.  They 
are,  at  the  same  time,  subject  to  every  kind  of  domes- 
tic drudgery  ;  they  dress  the  leather,  make  the  clothes 
and  shoes,  weave  the  nets,  collect  wood,  erect  the 
tents,  fetch  water,  and  perform  every  culinary  ser- 
vice ;  so  that  when  the  duties  of'  maternal  care  are 
added,  it  will  appear  that  the  life  of  these  women  is 
an  uninterrupted  succession  of  toil  and  pain.  This, 
indeed,  is  the  sense  they  entertain  of  their  own  situ- 
ation ;  and,  under  the  iniluence  of  that  sentiment, 
they  are  sometimes  known  to  destroy  their  female 
children,  to  save  them  from  tlie  miseries  which  they 
themselves  have  sutteretl.  They  also  have  a  ready 
way,  by  the  use  of  certain  simples,  of  procuring 
abortions,  which  they  sometimes  practise,  from  their 
hatred  of  the  father,  or  to  save  themselves  the  trou- 
ble v/hich  children  occasion  ;  and,  as  1  have  been  cre- 
dibly informed,  this  unnatural  act  is  repeated  without 
any  injury  to  the  heahh  of  the  women  who  perpetrate 
it. 

The  funeral  rites  begin,  like  all  other  solemn  cere- 
monials, with  smoaking,  and  are  concluded  by  a  feast. 
'1  he  body  is  dressed  in  the  best  habiliments  possessed 
by  the  deceased,  or  his  relations,  and  is  then  deposit- 
ed in  a  grave,  lined  with  branches :  some  domestic 
utensils  are  placed  on  it,  and  a  kind  of  canopy  erect- 
ed over  it.     During  this  ceremony,  great  lamentations 


M        Gtntrul  History  of  the  Fur  I'rcuk* 

are  made,  and   if  the  departed  person   is  very  much 
regretted,  the  near  relations  cut  off"  their  hair,  pierce 
the  fleshy  part  of  their  thighs  and  arms  with  arrows, 
knives,  Sec.  and  blacken  their  faces  with  charcoal.     If 
they  have  distinguished  themselves  in  war,  they    art, 
sometimes  laid  on  a  kind  of  scalToUling  ;  and  1  have  l>cen 
informed  that  women,  as  in  the  east,  have  been  known 
to  sacrifice  themselves  to  the  manes  of  their  husbands. 
The  whole  of  the  property  belonging  to  the  depai  led 
person  is  destroyed,  and    the    relations    take   in   ex- 
ch^juge  for  the  wearing  apparel,  any  rags  that  will  co- 
ver their  nakedness.     The  feast  bestowed  on  the  oc- 
casion, which  is,  or  at  least  used  to  be,  repeated  an- 
nually, is  accompanied  with  eulogiums  on  the  deceas- 
ed, and  without  any  acts  of  ferocity.     On  the  tomb 
are  carved  or  painted  the  symbols  of  his  tribe,  which 
are  taken  fram  the  different  animals  of  the  country. 
Many  and  various  are  the  motives  which  induce  a 
savage  to  epgage  in  war.     To  prove  his  courage,  or 
to  revenge  the  death  of  his  relations,  or  some  of  his 
tribe,  by  the  massacre  of  an  enemy.     If  thetnbe  feel 
themselves  called  upon  to  go  to  war,  the  elders  convene 
the  people,  in  order  to  know  the  general  opinion.     If 
it  be  for  war,  the  chief  publishes  his  intention  to  smoke 
in  the    sacred   stem  at  a  certain  period,  to  which  so- 
lemnity, meditation  and  fasting  are  recpired  as  pre- 
paratory ceremonials.     When  the  people  are  thus  tis- 
sembled,  and  the  meeting*  sanctified  by  the  custom  cf 
smoaking,  the  chief  enlarges  on  the  causes  wliichhave 
called  them   together,  and  the  necessity  of  the  mea- 
sures proposed  on  the  occasion. 

He  then  invites  those  who  are  willing  to  follow  him, 
to  siKiokc  ©ut  of  the  sacred  stem,  which  is  considered 
as  the  token  of  enrolment ;  and  if  it  should  be  the  gen- 
eral opinion,  that  assistance  is  necessary,  others  arc 
invited,  with  great  formality,  to  join  them.  Every  in- 
dividual who  attends  these  meetings  brings  something 
■^'ith  him  a^  ?.  token  of  his  warlike  intentions  or  as  an 
object  of  saprifice,  which,  when  the  assembly  dissolves, 
is  suspended  from  poles  near  the  place  of  council. 
They  have  frequent  feasts,  and  particular  cirQum- 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,  89 


s  convcns; 


stances  never  fail  to  produce  them  ;  such  as  a  tedious 
ilhiess,  long  fusting,  &c.  On  these  occasions  it  is 
usual  for  the  person  who  means  to  give  the  entertain- 
ment, to  uivnounce  his  design,  on  acertainday  of  open- 
ing the  medicine  bag  and  smoking  out  of  his  sacred 
stem.  This  declaration  i-*  considered  as  a  sacred  vow 
that  cannot  be  broken.  There  are  also  stated  periods, 
such  as  the  spring  and  autumn,  when  they  engage  in 
very  long  and  solemn  ceremonies.  On  these  occasi- 
ons dogs  are  offered  as  sacrifices,  and  those  which  are 
very  fut,  and  milk-white,  are  preferred.  They  also 
make  large  ollerings  of  their  property,  whatever  it  may 
be.  The  .scene  of  these  ceremonies  is  in  an  open  in- 
closure  on  the  bank  of  a  river  or  lake,  and  in  the  most 
conspicuous  situation,  in  order  that  such  as  are  pas- 
sing along  or  lra\  elling,  may  be  induced  to  make  their 
offerings.  There  is  also  a  particular  custom  among 
them,  that,  on  these  occasions,  if  any  of  the  tribe,  or 
even  a  stranger,  should  be  passing  by,  and  be  in  real 
want  of  any  thing  that  is  displayed  as  an  offering,  he 
has  a  right  to  take  it,  so  that  he  replaces  it  with  some 
article  he  can  spare,  though  it  be  of  far  inferior  value  : 
but  to  take  or  touch  any  thing  wantonly  is  considered 
as  a  sacrilegious  act,  and  highly  insulting  to  the  great 
Master  of  Life,  to  use  their  own  expression,  who  io  the 
sacred  obiect  of  their  devotion. 

The  scene  of  private  sacrifice  is  the  lodge  of  the  per- 
son who  performs  it,  which  is  prepared  for  that  pur- 
pose by  removing  every  thing  out  of  it,  and  spread- 
mg  green  branches  in  ev^ry  part.  The  fire  and  ashes 
are  also  taken  away.  A  new  h'^ai'th  ii  made  of  fresh 
earlh,  and  another  fire  is  lightCvi.  The  owner  of  the 
dwelling  remains  alone  in  it ;  and  he  begins  the  ceremo- 
ny by  spreading  a  piece  of  new  cloth,  or  a  well-dressed 
moose-skill  neatly  painted,  on  which  he  opens  his  me- 
dicine-bag  and  exposes  its  contents,  consisting  of  va- 
rious articles-  The  principal  of  them  is  a  kind  of 
household  god,  which  is  a  small  carved  image  about 
eight  inches  long.  Its  first  covering  is  of  down,  over 
which  a  piece  of  bi'xh  bark  is  closely  tied,  and  the 
wholfe  is  enveloped  in  several  folds  of  red  and  bluc^ 

H2 


pressions  of  real  concern,  that  they  were  obliged  to 
return  without  reaching  the  sea  :  indeed,  the  hope  of 
attaining  this  object  encouraged  them  to  bear,  with- 
out repining,  the  hardships  ofour  unremitting  voyage. 
JPor  some  time  past  their  spirits  were  animated  by  the 
expectation  that  another  day  would  bring  them  to  the 
Met  d' Quest }  and  even  in  bur  present  situation  they 
i^i^lared  their  readiness   to   follow   me  wherever  I 


172  yournalofa  Voyage  througfi  the 

the  back  of  the  Slave  Lake;,  where  the  Chepewyans 
colllect  copper* 

At  ten,  we  had  an  aft  wind,  and  the  men  who  had 
been  engaged  in  towing,  re-embarked.  At  twelve  we 
observed  a  lodge  on  the  side  of  the  river,  and  its  in- 
habitants runningabout  in  great  confu3ion,or  hurrying 
to  the  wwds.  Three  men  waited  our  arrival,  though 
they  rcaiained  at  some  distance  from  us,  with  their 
bows  and  arrows  really  to  be  employed ;  or  at  least, 
that  aongared  tn  h^  ihp  ifl^a  frKf»ir  ujicKort  «-^  ofinvoi?  «-ft 


t58  yournal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

the  last  fifteen  miles,  five  feet  was  the  deepest  water. 
The  lake  now  appeared  to  be  covered  with  ice,  for 
about  two  leagues  distance,  and  no  land  a-head,  so 


blew  hard  from  the  westward,  when  I  took  an  obser- 
vation, which  gave  69.  14.  north  latitude,  and  the 
meridian  variatioft  of  the  compass  was  thirty-si^  de- 
grees eastward.* 

This  afternoon  I  re-ascendcd  the  hill,  but  could 
not  discover  that  the  ice  had  been  put  in  motion  by 
the  force  of  the  wind.    At  the  same  time  I  could  just 

*  The  loogitude  has  tjiice  been  ^iseovewil  br  the  d«9d  feofcoaiti;la  be  aSf.' 
vest. 


c  Chepewyans 

!  mecn  who  had 
At  twelve  we 
ver,  and  its  In- 
on,or  hurrying 
arrival,  though 
us,  with  their 
d;  or  at  least. 


North'West  Continent  of  America,        if 9  '| 

ly  contested  by  its  owner,  and  on  my  interfering  to 
prevent  this  act  of  injustice,  he  manifested  his  grati- 
tude to  me  on  the  occasion.  We  lost  an  hour  and  a 
half  in  this  conference.  * 

The  English  Chief  was  during  the  whole  of  the 
time  in  the  woods,  where  some  of  the  hidden  proper- 
ty was  dis(  covered,  but  the  women  contrived  to  elude 
the  search  \.hat  was  made  after  them.  Some  of  these 
articles  were  purloined,  but   I  was  ignorant  of  this 


m 

Bill. 


I 


North-West  Continent  of  America.        15!> 

should  be  pleased  to  lead  them.  We  saw  several 
large  white  gulls,  and  other  birds,  whose  back  and 
unnpr  feathers  of  the  winor,  are  brown  :  and  whose  bel- 


about,  ^nd  the  return  of  the  fog  prevented  us  from 
ascertaining  our  distance  from  the  ice ;  indeed,  from 


174  yoternalofa  Voyage  through  the 

f 

we  did  not  see  in  our  passage  down  the  river.  About 
seven  the  sky,  to  the  westward,  became  of  a  steel- 
blue  colour,  with  lightning  and  thunder.  We  ac- 
cordingly landed  to  irepare  ourselves  against  the 
coming  storm ;  but  before  we  could  erect  our  tents, 
it  came  on  with  such  violence,  that  we  expected  it  to 
carry  every  thing  before  it.  The  ridge-pole  of  my 
tent  was  broken  in  the  middle,  where  it  was  sound, 
and  nine  inches  and  an  half  in  circumi'erence  ;  and 


160  yottrnal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


f1l«tf.inO»11iall     iwjrx    M-nv^ll    t»1»»%,T»     :^     a1_  ^     ^_ 


^  _     ^  1 


g  prevented  us  from 
he  ice  j  indeed,  from 


perceiving  that  the  water  had  flowed  under  our  bag- 
gage. As  the  wind  had  not  changed,  and  did  not 
blow  with  greater  violence  than  when  we  went  to  rest*. 


^e  thtough  the 

f 

down  the  river.  About 
ard,  became  of  a  steel- 

and  thunder.  We  ac- 
:  ourselves  against  the 
e  could  erect  our  tents, 
;,  that  we  expected  it  to 

The  ridge-pole  of  my 
lie,  where  it  was  sound, 

in  circumi'erence  ;  and 


A^oith-JVest  Continent  of  America*        ifS 

man's  Lake,  in  comparison  of  which  that  on  whose 
banks  we  then  were,  was  but  a  small  sireara  ;  that 
the  natives  were  very  large,  and  very  wicked,  and 
kill  common  men  wit. i  their  eyes;  that  they  make 
canoes  larger  than  ou.s  ;  that  those  who  inhabit  the 
entrance  of  it  kill  a  kind  of  beaver,  the  skin  of  which 
is  almost  red  ;  and  that  large  canoes  often  frequent  it. 
As  there  is  no  known  communication  by  water  with 
this  river,    the    na«^*ves  who   saw  it  went   over  the 


through  the 


Ksrth-Weit  Continent  tf  America.        lei 


lY.  _   ^. 


geese,  two  cranes,  and  a  white  owl.  Since  we  en- 
tered the  river,  we  experienced  a  very  agreeable 
change  in  the  temperature  of  the  air  •,  but  this  plea- 


yeurnal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


h5urs  of  it,  and  went  on  shore  for  tne  night  at  half 
past  seven, 

Monday  27,  The  weather  was  now  fine,  and  we 
renewed  our  voyage  at  half  past  two.  At  seven  we 
landed  where  there  were  three  families,  situated  close 
to  the  rapids.  •  We  found  but  few  people  ;  for  as  the 
Indian  who  followed  us  yesterday  had  arrived  here 
before  us,  we  sup^sed  that  the  greater  part  had  fled, 
on  the  intelligence    which  he  gave  of  our  approach. 


i    ■'^ 


162  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

W?  were    all    of  onininn  that  this    rirrnTnstnnrp'^  "nrA_ 


e  owl.  Since  we  en- 
;ed  a  very  agreeable 
le  air  j  but  this  plea- 


but  very  few  of  them  on  the  main  land,  and  they  are 
very  small ;  those  are  larger  which  are  found  on  the 
islands,  were  they  grow  in  patches)  and  close  together. 


,■  ^  t'-. 


»#*   - '  «;;is«^y:- •  ■  i>i^ 


:^m<::.ak.: 


■^'*f.\ 


ye  through  the 

>re  for  txie  night  at  half 

r  was  now  fine,  and  we 
past  two.  At  seven  we 
ee  families,  situated  close 
-It  few  people  ;  for  as  the 
;erday  had  arrived  here 
;he  greater  part  had  fled, 
e  gave  of  our  approach. 


North-West  Continst^t  of  Ameriea,         1 7f 

consequently  the  river  to  the  west  to  be  Cook's  River  ; 
and  that  the  body  of  water  or  sea  into  which  this  river 
discharges  itself  at  Whale  Island,  communicates  with 
Norto:-  Sound.  I  made  an  advantt^gcous  proposition 
to  this  man  to  accompany  me  across  the  mountains 
to  the  other  river,  but  he  refused  it.  At  the  same 
lime  he  recommended  me  lo  the  people  already  men- 
tioned, who  were  fishing  in  the  nei||J|||borhood,  as  bet- 
ter qualified  to  assist  me  in  the  undertaking  which  I 
1 1  , 1 


through  the 


ITorth-West  Continent  of  America,  163 


signals  to  direct  each  other  to  their  respective  winter- 
quarters.  Our  hunters,  in  the  course  of  the  day  kil? 
led  two  rein-deer>  which  were  the  only  large  animal* 


SsJO 


iy«  yournalof  a  Voyage  through  the 

They  represented  them  as  being  of  a  gigantic  sta- 
ture, and  adorned  with  wings,  which,  however,  they 
sever  employed  in  flying :  that  they  fed  on  large  birds, 
which  they  killed  with  the  greatest  ease,  though  com- 
mon men  would  be  certain  victims  of  their  voracity 
if  they  ventured  to  approach  them.  They  also  des- 
cribed the  people  that  inhabited  the  mouth  of  the  ri- 
ver as  possessinjUlj^e  extraordinary  power  of  killing 
with  theireycs,  and  devouring  a  large  beaver  at  a  single 


164  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


ttt.  1.    :_ J J 


^^J*^-_..    a.L 


eir  respective  winter^ 
jourse  of  the  day  kil? 
e  only  large  animals 


recollected  that  he  had  expressed  his  apprehensions 
of  being  taken  away  as  a  slave ;  and  his  alarms  were 


rage  through  the 

\  being  of  a  gigantic  sta« 
igs,  which,  however,  they 
hat  they  fed  on  large  birds, 
greatest  ease,  though  com- 
i  victims  of  their  voracity 
ch  them.  They  also  des- 
ibited  the  mouth  of  the  ri- 
iordinary  power  of  killing 
ig  a  large  beaver  at  a  single 


I^orthWest  Continent  of  Amerittu        179 

ation,  they  all,  at  one  and  the  same  momrnt,  became 
sick,  and  answered  in  a  very  fjunt  tone,  that  they  kne\T 
no  more  than  they  had  already  communicated,  and 
that  they  should  die  if  I  took  any  of  them  away .  They 
began  to  persuade  my  interpreter  to  remain  with  them 
as  they  loved  him  as  well  as  they  did  themselves,  and 
that  he  would  be  killed  if  he  continjM  with  me.  Nor 
did  this  proposition,  aided  as  it  wasW  the  solicitation 


f  through  the 


.~      ^1 A.       ^1 


_».    .  J_  «     «      »., 


Korth'lVest  Continent  of  America.        165 
u,af  wp  had  seen  since  we  had  been  in  this  river,  and 


with  the  paddles.  The  men  in  the  canoe  relieved  two 
of  those  on  shore  every  two  hours,  so  that  it  was  ve- 
ry hai-d  and  fatiguing  duty,  but  it  saved  a  great  deal 


180  yournalofa  Voyage  through  the 

©f  screrity  to  he  explained,  withthe  assuraficc  that  ho 
mmry  would  be  offered  to  themselves.  The  woman, 
however^  to  whom  the  dog  belonged,  was  very  tmti\ 
affected^  and  declared  that  the  loss  of  five  children, 
during  the  preceding  winter,  had  not  affected  her  so 
much  as  the  death  of  this  animal.  But  her' grief  was 
not  of  very  lonc|||ration ;  and  a  few  beads,  &e.  soon 
flsaugged  her  ^Srow.     But  as  they  can,  witt^ovit  dit- 


■%  ■ '  'S^ 


IW  yournalofa  Voyage  through  the 


i  canoe  relieved  two 

I,  so  that  it  was  ve- 

saved  a  great  deal 


j\u  my  people  went  lo  rest;  out  l  thought  it  pru- 
dent, to  sit  up,  in  order  to  watch  the  motions  of  the 
nativea.    Tijl*  weumstance  was  a  subject  of  their 


M 


^m 


xge  through  the 

with  the  assurftficc  that  ho 
hemselves.  The  woman, 
belonged,  was  very  i»tiCh 
the  loss  of  five  children, 
,  had  not  affected  her  so 
limal.  But  her' grief  was 
mtl  a  few  beads,  &;e.  soon 
as  they  can,  witl^ovit  dif- 


Morth'West  Continent  of  America*        1 81 

bitants,  who  were  probably  with  the  natives  whom  we 
had  just  left.  My  Indians,  in  rumaging  these  places, 
found  several  articles  which  they  proposed  to  take  ; 
I  therefore  gave  beads  and  awls,  to  be  left  as  the  pur- 
chase of  them  ;  but  this  act  of  justice  they  were  not 
able  to  comprehend,  as  the  people  themselves  were 
not  present.  I  took  up  a  net  and  left  a  large  knife  in 
the  place  of  it.    It  was  about  foul^thoms  long,  and 


rou^h  the 


Kerth4Veat  Continent  of  America,        %%7 


of  thai  t'im«   wVii^h 


ivna    ^t\    twmntts%\m     *<k   %%m 


A«,  t te 


was  dug  away,  so  as  to  form  a  level  floor.  At  each 
end  was  a  stout  fork,  whereon  was  laid  a  strong  nUgc^ 
pole,  whkh  foiincd  a  support  to  the  whole  structure, 


182  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

some   trees  with  a  cod-line.     The  storm  lasted  two 
hours,  and  deluged  us  with  wet. 

Wednesday  29.  Yesterday  the  weather  was  clou- 
dy,  and  the  heat  insupportable ;  and  now  we  could 
not  put  on  clothes  enough  to  keep  us  Warm.  We  em- 
barked at  a  quarter  past  four,  with  an  aft  virid,  which 
drove  us  on  at  a  gjreat  rate,  though  the  current  is  very 
strong.  At  ten,  we  came  to  the  other  rapid,  \vhich 
wp  Pot  im  with  the  line  on  the  west  side,  where  we 


168  yournalofa  Votjoge  through  the 


L  a  level  floor.  At  each 
1  was  laitl  a  strong  ridge* 
t  to  the  whole  structure, 


OLUWIkf 


*T  c  <.9uiu  uuv,  iiuiTcver,  oDiam  any  inidmift- 
tion  re»pccthig  the  lake  in  the  direction  in  which  we 
were.  To  the  eastward  and  westward  whtrc  they  saW 
it,  tlie  ice  breaks  up,  but  soon  frec;;pes  again^. 


ige  through  the 

.    The  storm  lasted  two 

wet. 

ly  the  weather  was  clou- 
:able;  and  now  we  could 
)  keep  us  Warm.  We  em- 
rr,  with  an  aft  virid,  which 
though  the  current  is  very 
to  the  other  rapid,  Which 

the  west  side,  where  we 


North'West  Continent  of  America*        183 

of  hurtle  berries,  raspberries,  and  a  berry  called  Po/rd*, 
which  grows  in  the  greatest  abundance.  We  were  ve- 
ry much  impeded  in  our  way  by  shoals  of  sand  and 
small  stoi.es,  which  render  the  water  shallow  at  a 
distance  from  the  shore*  In  other  places  the  bank 
of  the  river  is  lofty  ;  it  is  formed  of  black  earth  and 
sand,  and,  as  it  is  cantinuaUy  fallingj  displayed  tons, 
in  some  parts,  a  face  of  solid  ice,  to  within  a  foot  of 
the .  surface..    We   finished   this   day's  voyage   at  a 


Aorth'Weit  ConUnent  of  America, 


Smaii^   river, 

.shore  in 


aiiu  i*v    »•»*»    w  «• 


order  to  encamp,  but  we  proceeded  onwards, 


I' 


iro         yournato/a  Voyage  through  the 


TUm  F«n«itmftti«  inrnrmed  thefA  th^t  thev  taW  IftlVt 


nara.  /vmong  mem  are  lound  pieces  ot  J'etroUumy 
which  bears  a  resemblance  to  yellow  waat,  but  is  more 
friable.  The  English  Chief  informed  me,  that  rocks 
•f  a  similar  iund  are  scattered  about  the  country^  all 


■J 


If 


\ge  through  the 

theiA  thAt  thev  taW  larct 


Ngrth'lV^H  Cmtintnt  of  America.        171 
we  employed  the  towing  line  throughout  the  course  of 


t09        General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 


h^U 


but  with  unavailing  endeavovS)  to   reach  the  blissful 
island)  from  which  they  are  excluded  forever.  \ 

They  have  some  faint  notions  of  the  transmigration 
of  the  soul ;  so  that  if  a  chil^  be  born  with  teeth,  they 
instantly  imaginet  from  i\.a  premature  appearance,  that 
it  bears  a  resemblance  to  some  person  who  had  lived 
to  an  advanced  period,  and  that  he  has  assumed  a  rer 
novated  life)  with  these  extraordinpj'y  tokens  of  ma- 
turity. 

The  Chepewyans  arc  sober,  timorous,  and  Vagrant, 
with  a  selfish  disposition  which  has  sometimes  created 
;suspicions  of  theii*  integrity.  Their  stature  has  nothing 
remarkable  in  it ;  but  though  they  are  seldom  corpu- 
lent, they  are  sometimes  robust.  Their  complexion 
is  swarthy ;  their  features  coarse,  and  their  hair  lank, 
but  not  always  of  a  dingy  black  j  nor  have  they  uni- 
versally th^  piercing  eye,  which  generally  animates 
the  Indian  covintennnce.  The  women  have  a  more 
a;greeabie  aspect  than  the  men,  but  their  gait  is  auk- 
ward,  which  proceeds  from  their  being  accustomed 
nine  months  in  the  year,  to  travel  on  snow-shoes  and 
drag  sledges  of  a  weight  from  two  to  four  hundred 
pounds.  They  are  very  submissive  to  thei-  husbands, 
who  have,  however,  their  fits  of  jealousy ;  and?  for 
yery  trifling  causes,  treat  them  with  such  cruelty  as 
sometimes  to  occasion  their  death.  They  are  fre- 
quently objects  of  traffic ;  and  the  father  possesses  the 
right  of  disposing  of  his  daughter.*  The  men  in  ge- 
neral extract  theii-  beards,  though  some  of  them  are 
seen  to  prefer  a  bushy,  black  beard,  to  a  smooth  chin. 
They  cut  their  hair  in  various  forms,  or  leave  it  in  a 
long,  natural  flow,  accoixllng  as  their  caprice  or  fancf^' 
^tiggests.  The  women  always  wear  it  in  great  lengtlb* 
and  some  of  them  are  very  attentive  to  its  arrangift^' 
ment.  If  they  at  any  time  appear  despoiled  of  their 
ti'esseS)  it  is  to  be  esteemed  a  proof  of  the  husband's 
jealousy,  and  is  considered  as  a  severer  punishment 
than  manual  correction.  Both  sexes  have  blue  oa* 
black  barS)  or  fi*om  one  to  four  straight  lines  on  their 


*  Tb?/  do  not,  however,  sell  tliem  as  slaves,  but  asctnxpanions  to  those 
suj>j«xil  to  lire  more  c?m6)ruibi}'  ib»o  thenu^ives. 


wboaiQ 


ns  to  those  who  ara 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade*        103 

clieeks  or  forehead,  to  distinguish  the  tribe  to  which 
they  belong.  These  marks  are  either  tatooed,  or 
made  by  drawing  a  thread,  dipped  in  the  necessary- 
colour,  beneath  the  skin. 

There  are  no  people  more  attentive  to  the  comforts 
of  their  dress,  or  less  anxious  respecting  its  exterior 
appearance.  In  the  winter  it  is  composed  of  the  skins 
of  deer,  and  their  fawns,  and  dressed  as  fine  as  any 
chamois  leather,  in  the  hair.  In  the  summer  their  ap- 
parel is  the  same,  except  that  it  is  prepared  without 
the  hair.  Their  shoes  and  leggins  are  sewn  together, 
the  latter  reaching  upwards  to  the  middle,  and  being 
supported  by  a'belt,  under  which  a  small  piece  of  lea- 
ther is  drawn  to  cover  the  private  parts,  the  ends  of 
which  fail  down  both  before  and  behind.  In  the  shoes 
they  put  the  hair  of  the  moose  or  rein-deer,  with  ad- 
ditional pieces  of  leather  as  socks.  The  shirt  or  coat, 
when  girted  round  the  waist,  reaches  to  the  middle  of 
the  thigh,  and  the  mittens  are  sewed  to  the  sleeves,  or 
are  suspended  by  strings  from  the  shoulders.  A  vv^\ 
or  tippet  surrounds  the  neck,  and  the  skin  of  the  hea^'^ 
of  the  deer  forms  a  curious  kind  of  cap. .  A  robeV 
made  of  several  deer  or  fawn  skins  sewed  together, 
covers  the  whole.  This  dress  is  worn  single  or  dou- 
ble, but  always  in  the  winter,  with  the  h'  ir  within  and 
without.  Thus  arrayed,  a  Chepewyan  will  lay  him- 
self down  on  the  ice  in  the  middle  of  a  lake,  and  re- 
pose in  comfort ;  though  he  will  sometimes  IBnd  a  dif- 
ficulty in  the  morning  to  disencumber  himself  from 
the  snow  drifted  on  him  during  the  night.  If  in  his 
passage  he  should  be  in  want  of  provision,  he  cuts  an 
hole  in  the  ice,  when  he  seldom  fails  of  taking  some 
trout  or  pike,  whose  eyes  he  instantly  scoops  out,  and 
eats  as  a  great  delicacy  ;  but  if  they  should  not  be  suf- 
ficient to  satisfy  his  appetite,  he  will,  in  this  necessi- 
ty, make  his  meal  of  the  fish  in  its  raw  state ;  but, 
those  whom  I  saw,  preferred  to  dress  their  victuals 
when  circumstances  admitted  the  necessary  prepara- 
tion. When  they  are  in  that  part  of  their  country 
which  does  not  produce  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wood 


tQ4i       General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 

for  fuel,  they  are  reduced  to  the  same  exigency,  though 
they  generally  dry  their  meat  in  the  sun.* 

The  dress  of  the  women  differ  from  that  of  the 
men.  Their  leggins  are  tied  below  the  knee ;  and 
their  coat  or  shift  is  wide,  hanging  down  to  the  ancle, 
and  is  tucked  up  at  pleasure  by  means  of  a  belt,  whicliL 
is  fastened  round  the  waist.  Those  who  have  chil- 
dren have  these  garments  made  very  full  about  the 
shoulders,  as  when  they  are  travelling  they  carry  their 
infants  upon  their  back?,  next  their  skin,  in  which 
situatioii  they  are  perfectly  comfortable  and  in  a  posi- 
tion convenient  to  be  suckled.  Nor  do  they  disconti- 
nue to  give  their  milk  to  them  until  they  have  another 
child.  Child-birth  is  not  the  object  of  that  tender  care 
and  serious  attention  among  the  savages  as  it  is  among 
civilized  people.  At  this  period  no  part  of  their  usu- 
al occupation  is  omitted,  and  this  continual  and  regu- 
lar exercise' must  contribute  to  the  welfare  of  the  mo- 
ther, both  in  the  progress  of  parturition  and  in  the 
moment  of  delivery.  The  women  have  a  singular 
custom  of  cutting  off  a  small  piece  of  the  navel-string 
of  the  new-born  children,  and  hang  it  about  their 
n*»cks:  they  are  also  curious  in  the  covering  they  make 
for  it,  which  they  decorate  with  porcupine's  quills  and 
beads* 

Though  the  women  are  as  much  in  the  power  of 
the  me;n,  as  any  other  articles  of  their  property,  they 
are  always  consulted,  and  possess  a  very  considerable 
influence  in  the  trafBc  with  Europeans,  and  other  im- 
portant concerns. 

Plurality  of  wives  is  common  among  them,  and  the 
ceremony  of  mnrriage  is  of  a  very  simple  nature.     Tne 

*  The  provision  called  Pemican,  on  which  tlie  Chepewyant,  as  well  as  the  other 
savages  of  this  countr]^  chiefly  subsist  in  their  journeys,  is  prepared  in  the  following 
manner.  Tttelean  parts  of  the  fiesh  of  the  larger  «nimals  are  cut  in  thin  sli'  >s,  and 
are  placed  on  a  wooden  grate  over  a  slow  fire,  or  exposed  to  the  sun.  anu  ume- 
times  to  the  hott.  These  operations  dry  it,  and  in  that  state  It  is  pounded  ly.'tweea 
two  stonet :  it  will  then  keep  with  care  for  several  years.  It,  however,  it  is  kept 
in  large  quantities,  it  is  disposed  to  ferment  in  the  spring  of  the  rear,  when  it  must 
t)e  exposed  to  the  iUr,  oritwiU  soon  decay.  The  inside  fat,  and  that  of  the  rump^ 
which  it  mach  tbielter  in  these  wild  than  our  domestic  animals,  is  melted  down  and 
mixed,  iik*MiIing  state,  with  the  pounded  meat,  in  equalproportions :  it  is  then 
ets  or  bags  for  tlie  convenience  of  carrying  it.    IJius  it  becomes  a  nutri-^ 


mnted.  ii 

qousfoot 

&alt,  or  any  vegetable  or  farinao 
late.  There  tianotlter  tort  m  ' 
^icb  it  of  a  tuperior  equality. 


qous  food,  and  is  eaten,  without  any  further  preparation,  or  the  addition  of  spice^ 
calt,  or  any  vegetable  or  farinaceous  substance.    A  little  time  reconciles  it  to  the  ~~ 
late.   There  tianotlter  tort  made  witb  tfie  additivD  of  nuutow  and  <ilrie4  Pst 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade*         104? 

gii'ls  are  betrothed  at  a  very  early  period  to  those 
whori  the  parents  think  the  best  able  to  support  them : 
nor  is  the  inclination  of  the  woman  considered.  When- 
ever a  separation  takes  place,  which  sometimes  hap- 
pens, it  depends  entirely  on  the  will  and  pleasure  of 
the  husband.  1 1  common  with  the  other  Indians  of 
this  country,  they  have  a  custom  respectihg  the  peri- 
odical state  of  a  woman,  which  is  rigorously  observ- 
ed ;  at  that  time  she  must  seclude  herself  from  society. 
They  are  not  even  allowed  in  thi>t  situation  to  keep 
the  same  path  as  the  men,  when  travelling  :  and  it  is 
considered  a  great  breach  of  decenc/  for  a  women  so 
circumstanced  to  touch  any  utensils  tf  manly  occupa- 
tion. Such  a  circumstance  is  supposed  to  defile  themy 
so  that  their  subsequent  use  would  be  followed  by  cer- 
tain mischief  or  misfortune.  There  are  particular 
skins  which  the  women  never  touch,  as  of  the  bear  and 
wolf;  and  those  animals  the  men  are  seldom  known 
to  kill. 

They  are  not  remarkable  for  their  activity  as  hun- 
ters, which  is  owing  to  the  ease  with  which  they  snare 
deer  and  spear  fish :  and  these  occupations  are  not  be- 
yond the  strength  of  thsir  old  men,  women,  and  boys  j 
so  that  they  participate  in  Ihose  laborious  occupations^ 
which  among  their  neighbours  are  confined  to  the  wo- 
men. They  make  war  on  the  Esquimaux,  who  cannot 
resist  their  superior  numbers,  and  put  them  to  deaths 
as  it  is  a  principle  with  them  never  to  make  prisoners. 
At  the  same  time  they  tamely  submit  to  the  Kniste- 
neaux,  who  are  not  so  numerous  as  themselves,  when 
they  treat  them  as  enemies. 

They  do  not  eftect  that  cold  reserve  at  meeting,  ei- 
among  themselves  or  strangers,  which  is  common  with 
the  Knisteneaux,  but  communicate  mutually,  and  at 
once,  all  the  information  of  which  they  are  possessed. 
Nor  are  they  roused  like  them  from  an  apparent  tor- 
por to  a  state  of  great  activity.  They  are  conse- 
quently more  uniform  in  this  respect,  though  they  are 
of  a  very  persevering  disposition  when  their  interest 
is  concerned. 

As  these  people  are  not  addicted  to  spirituousi  U* 


106        General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade* 

quorS)  they  have  a  regular  ancj  uninterrupted  use  of 
their  understanding,  ^vhicll  is  always  directed  to  the 
advancement  of  their  own  interest;  and  this  .disposi- 
tion, as  may  be  readily  imagined,  sometimes  occasi- 
ons them  to  be  charged  with  fraudulent  habits.  They 
will  submit  with  patience  to  the  severest  treatment, 
when  they  are  conscious  that  they  deserve  it,  but  will 
never  forget  or  forgive  any  wanton  or  unnecessary  ri- 
gour. A  mtoderAte  conduct  I  never  found  to  fail,  n»r 
do  I  hesitate  to  represent  them,  altogether,  as  the 
most  peaceable  tribe  of  Indians  known  in  North  Ame- 
rica. 

There  are  conjurers  and  high-priests,  but  I  was  not 
present  at  any  of  their  ceremonies;  t^^ough  they 
certainly  operate  in  an  extraordinary  manner  on  the 
imaginations  of  the  people  in  the  cure  of  disorders* 
Their  principal  maladies  are,  rheumatic  pains,  the 
flux  and  consumption.  The  venereal  complaint  is  ve- 
ry common  ;  but  though  its  progress  is  slow,  it  gra- 
dually undermines  the  conbtitution,  and  brings  on 
premature  decay.  They  have  recoure  to  superstition 
for  their  cure,  and  chai^ms  are  their  only  remedies, 
except  the  bark  of  the  willow,  which  being  burned 
and  reduced  to  powder,  is  strewed  upon  green  wounds 
and  ulcers,  and  places  contrived  for  promoting  per- 
sjiiration.  Of  the  use  of  simples  and  plants  they 
have  no  knowledge  ;  nor  can  it  be  expected,  as  their 
country  does  not  produce  them. 

Though  they  have  enjoyed  so  long  an  intercourse 
with  Europeans,  their  country  is  so  barren,  as  not 
to  be  capable  of  producing  the  ordinary  necessaries 
naturally  introduced  by  such  a  communication*,  and 
they  continue,  in  a  great  measure,  their  own  inconve- 
nient and  awkward  modes  of  taking  their  game  and 
preparing  it  when  taken.  Sometimes  they  drive  the 
deer  into  the  small  lakes,  where  they  spear  them,  or 
force  them  into  inclosures,  wnere  the  bow  and  arrow 
are  employed  against  them.  These  animals  are  also 
taken  in  snares  made  of  skin,  jn  the  former  in- 
stance, the  game  is  divided  among  those  who  have  been 
xn^u^ed  in  the  pursuit  of  it.    In  the  latter,  it  is  con- 


•{li:^'l 


^mU 


General  Nishry  of  the  Fur  Trade.         lOT 

sldered  as  private  properly;  nevertheless,  any  un- 
successful hunter  passing  by,  may  take  a  deer  so 
caught,  leaving  the  head,  skin,  and  saddle  for  the 
owner.  Thus,  though  they  have  no  regular  govern- 
ment, asevery  man  is  lord  in  his  own  family,  they  are 
influenced  more  or  less,  by  certain  principles  which 
conduce  to  their  general  benefit. 

In  their  quarrels  with  each  other,  they  very  rarely 
proceed  to  a  greater  degree  of  violence  than  is  occa- 
sioned by  blows,  wrestling,  and  pulling  of  the  hair,  while 
their  abusive  language  consists  in  applying  the  name 
of  the  most  offensive  animal  to  the  object  of  their  dis- 
pleasure, and  adding  the  term  ugly,  and  chiay,  oi  still- 
born.* 

Their  arms  and  domestic  apparatus,  in  addition  to 
the  articles  procured  from  Europeans,  are  spears, 
hows,  and  arrows,  fishing-nets,  and  lines  made  of  green 
deer-skin  thongs.  They  have  also  nets  for  taking  the 
l)eaver  as  he  endeavors  to  escape  from  his  lodge  when 
it  is  broken  open.  It  is  set  in  a  particular  manner  for 
the  purpose,  and  a  man  is  employed  to  watch  the  mo- 
ment when  he  enters  the  snare,  or  he  would  soon  cut 
his  way  through  it.  He  is  then  thrown  upon  the  ice, 
where  he  remains  as  if  he  had  no  life  in  him. 

The  snow-shoes  are  of  very  superior  workmanship. 
The  inner  part  of  their  frame  is  strait,  the  outer  one 
is  curved,  and  it  is  pointed  at  both  ends,  with  that  in 
front  turned  up.  They  are  also  laced  with  great  neat- 
ness with  thongs  made  of  deer-skin.  The  sledges  arc 
formed  of  thin  slips  of  board  turned  up  also  in  front, 
and  are  highlv  polished  with  crooked  knives,  in  order 
to  slide  along  with  facility.  Closs-graihed  wood  is> 
on  that  account,  the  best ;  but  theirs  are  made  of  the 
red  or  swamp  spruce-lir  tree. 

The  country,  which  these  people  claim  as  their  land, 
has  a  very  small  quantity  of  earth,  and  produces  little 
or  no  wood  or  herbage.  Its  chief  vegetable  substance 
is  the  moss,  on  which  the  deer  feed  ;  and  a  kind  of 
rock  moss,  which,  in  titnes  of  scarcity,  preserves  the 

*  TUs  ra.ma'\t  abb  applicable  to  the  tttus  oVim  ttiiiMl,  n^ei'klHed,  wiiiahit  to»> 
sidered  as  one  uf  the  greatest  delicuciet. 


108         General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade, 

lives  of  the  natives.  When  boiler!  in  water,  it  dis- 
solves into  a  clammy  glutinous  substance,  that  affords 
a  very  sufficient  nourishment.  But,  notwithstanding 
the  barren  state  of  their  country,  with  propf  r  care  and 
economy)  these  people  might  live  in  great  comfort, 
for  the  lakes  abound  with  hsh,  and  the  hills  are  co- 
vered with  deer.  Though,  of  all  the  Indian  people  of 
this  continent,  they  are  considered  as  the  most  provi- 
dent, they  suffer  severely  at  certain  seasons,  and  par- 
ticularly in  the  dead  of  winter,  when  they  are  under 
tlie  necessity  of  retiring  to  their  scanty  woods.  To 
the  westward  of  them  the  musk-ox  may  be  found,  but 
they  have  no  dependence  on  it  as  an  article  of  sus- 
tenance. There  are  also  large  hares,  a  few  white 
wolves,  peculiar  to  their  country,  and  several  kinds  of 
foxes,  with  white  and  grey  partridges,  &c.  The  bea- 
ver and  mpose  deer  they  do  not  find  until  they  come 
within  60  degrees  north  latitude,  and  the  buffalo  is 
Btill  further  south.  That  animal  is  known  to  frequent 
an  higher  latitude  to  the  westward  of  their  country. 
These  people  bring  pieces  of  beautiful  variegated  mar- 
ble, which  are  found  on  the  surface  of  the  earth.  It 
is  easily  worked,  bears  a  fine  polish,  and  hardens  with 
time  ;  it  indures  heat,  and  is  manufactured  into  pipes 
ar  calumets,  as  they  are  very  fond  of  smoking  to- 
bacco ;  a  luxury  which  the  Europeans  communicated 
to  them. 

Their  amusements  or  recreations  are  but  few.  Their 
music  is  so  inharmonious,  and  their  dancing  so  auk- 
ward,  that  they  might  be  supposed  to  be  ashamed  of 
both,  as  they  very  seldom  practise  either.  They  also 
shoot  at  marks,  and  play  at  tlie  games  common  among 
them;  but  in  fact  prefer  sleeping  to  either;  and  the 
greater  part  of  their  time  is  passed  in  ;procuring  food, " 
and  resting  from  the  toil  necessary  to  obtain  it. 

They  are  also  of  a  querulous  disposition,  and  are 
continually  making  complaints  ;  which  they  express 
by  a  constant  repetition  ofthewordeduiy,"itishard," 
in  a  whining  and  plaintive  tone  of  voice. 

They  are  superstitious  in  the  extreme,  and  almost 
:  every  action  of  their  lives,  however  trivial,  is  more  or 


^^it- 


General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,         10© 

less  influenced  by  some  whimsical  notion.  I  never 
observed  that  they  had  any  particular  form  of  religious 
worship ;  but  as  they  believe  in  a  good  and  evil  spirit, 
and  a  state  of  future  rewards  and  punishments,  they 
cannot  be  devoid  of  religious  impressions.  At  the 
same  time  they  manifest  a  decided  unwillingness  to 
make  any  communications  on  the  subject. 

The  Chepewyans  have  been  accused  of  abandoning 
their  aged  and  imfirm  people  to  perish,  and  of  not  bury- 
ing iheir  dead,  but  these  are  melancholy  necessities, 
which  proceed  from  their  wandering  way  of  life. 
They  are  by  no  means  universal,  for  it  is  within  my 
knowledge,  that  a  man,  rendered  helpless  by  palsy, 
was  carried  about  for  many  years,  with  the  greatest 
tenderness  and  attention,  till  he  died  a  natural  death. 
That  they  should  not  bury  their  dead  in  their  own 
country,  cannot  be  imputed  to  them  a  custom  arising 
from  a  savage  insensibility,  as  they  inhabit  such  high 
latitudes  that  the  ground  never  thaws }  but  it  is  well 
known,  that  when  they  are  in  the  woods,  they  cover 
their  dead  with  trees.  Besides,  they  manifest  no  com- 
mon respect  to  the  memory  of  their  departed  friends, 
by  a  long  period  of  mourning,  cutting  off  their  hair, 
and  never  making  use  of  the  property  of  the  deceas- 
ed. Nay,  they  frequently  destroy  or  sacrifice  thei** 
own,  as  a  token  of  regret  and  sorrow. 

If  there  be  any  people  who,  from  the  barren  state 
of  their  country,  might  be  supposed  to  be  cannibals 
by  nature,  these  people,  from  the  difficulty  they,  at 
times,  experience  in  procuring  food^  might  be  liable  to 
that  imputation.  But,  in  all  my  knowledge,  of  them, 
I  never  was  acquainted  with  one  instance  of  that  dis- 
position; nor  among  all  the  natives  which  I  met  with 
in  a  route  of  five  thousand  miles,  did  1  see  or  hear  of 
an  example  of  cannibalism,  but  such  as  arose  from  that 
irresistible  necessity,  which  has  been  known  to  impel 
even  tlie  most  civilized  people  to  eat  each  other. 


K 


Exitmpka^f  tht  Vhepgw^n.  Tm^c. 


MAN 
Wotian 
g  niaii 
Young  wonm 
Mjrton 
iNy  daughltr 
My  hukband 
My  wife 
My  brother 
iMv  father 
Myoiothn: 
My  grandfather 
Mci  or  my 


\ 


ou 

They 

Ifead 

£r 

lijrei 

Teeth 

Si<)e 

Icily 

longno 

Hair 

sack 

mood 

The  knee  . 

Clotteti,  or  BttkiUti 

Coat 

Legiiln 

!9ioes 

Hobe,  or  blankcu 

fi(e«Tet 

Mitteiu 

Swan 
"Dactt 
^o^«e 

wlute  partridge 
^foy  partridgt 
JMffafo 
Moose  deer 
Rein  deer 
Beaver 
•ear 
Otter 
Marten 
■  Wotvereen 
Wotf 
fox 
Hare 
Dog 

Beaver-skin 
Otter-sltSh 
Muote-iikiia 
rat 
crease 

fig' 

Wbite-fish 

Titout 

Pickerel 

Flsh^wok 

Fish-linc 

One 

Two 

Three 

Four 

five 


Dinnie. 

Cheau(4ak 

Queiacitiis. 

'/A  axay. 
iA  leMgAi, 
Xi  dinnie. 
Z)  tayuaM. 
l£i  tAvm. 
Zi  tall, 
Zihah. 
Zi  ua.ii. 
96c. 

Ce. 
uH. 
tte. 
Uthic. 

Ed  then. 
C«h,     , 
Nackhft]^. 
Ooo 
Kac-hty. 

m. 
erfthu. 

Thie^ah. 

Dell. 

Cha-gutt 

Utlunay« 

£eh. 

ITieil. 

Kkiehec. 

Thuth. 

Bah. 

Geese. 

X«go\ice. 
icefli. 
6«h. 
Casliah. 
Dejree. 
Giddy, 
binvai. 
Cdthuit. 
Zah. 
Zass. 
laby 


Nagiiiyai. 

Yess(Nouneay) 

Maguethay. 

Sliengh. 

2ah  thjtb. 

Naby-ai  ttilth. 

Deny-ai  thttii. 

Icah. 

TMett. 

Bid. 

Uldiah. 

Slouey. 

Slouyzinai. 

O'Gah. 

Ge-etb. 

Clulez 

Slachyi 

Naghur. 

Tagh-y. 

Dengk-y. 

SasouUwbee. 


} 


«ix 
-  iiovon 
EigT.t 

Ten 
9W»»y 
Five 
tvater 

Wovd 
ice 
J*o\» 
Kain 
iiake 
River 
Mountain 
^ne 
nemts 
Ifet 
told 
Inland 
Gun 
Powder 
Kniie 
Axe 
Stfn 
Moon 
Red 
Brack 

Trade,  or  barter 
♦  Good 
Not  good 
Stinflng 

Ead,  ugly 
ong  sincb 

To*Morrow 
«yandbye,(»-t>te- 

sently 
Huuse,  or  lodge 
Ganoe 
Door 

le^thtr^Lodge 
Chief 
Mfne 
His 
Your^ 

Small,  or  little 
I  K)Ve  yto\i 
I  hate  you 

lamtobe^Mtied 
My  relation 
Oite  tne  water 
Give  me  meat 
Give  me  lish 


Alki  tar-hy-y. 

Alkl  ddng-hy. 

CakinatttMotli-flbi 

Ca  nothne. 

ftafhurdNiaoiliAa. 

Cuunn. 

Tone. 

4»ethk<a. 

Thun. 

Yatti. 

Tlunncltee 

Totiey. 

Twse. 

Zeth. 

1<haii\ 

Ouifli. 

ftrtoirh. 

Ed^ah. 

Koaey. 

'l^lkiihy. 

TelkiihycouiiBS. 

facts. 

Thynle. 

Sah. 

Deli  couse. 

Dell  'Jllin. 

Na-huun-ny. 

Leyzong. 

Leyzong  boiriicf . 

Geddey. 

Sii^Aey. 

Gallaainna. 

Gffineh. 

GABibeh. 

C^rahonllc^ 

Cooen. 

Shaiuzee. 

T^obalL 

N'abalay. 

Buchahudty. 

^idzy. 

Bedzy.' 

Nuntzy. 

Unshaw. 

Chautah. 

Ba  ehoinichdlnh. 

B)ucnoink:haditih 

hillay. 
Est-vhoimest^hinay. 
Sv  lod,  innay. 
1  oo  hanniltu. 
ficds-haniltu. 
Sloeeh  anneltu. 


Give  me  meat  to  eat  Bid  Barheefher. 
Give  me  water  to 

drink  To  Barhitheh. 

Is  it  <ar  ofif  Netha  uzany. 

h  it  near  Milduay  uzanjr. 

It  is  not  far  Nitha-hiliai. 

It  is  near  Nilduay. 

How  matay  EtlaneHley, 

What  call  you  him, 

or  that 


Come  here   . 
Pain,  or  sufiering 
It's  hard 
You  lie 
Whatthea 


Etia  houllia. 

Yeu  dessay. 

I-yah 

Eduyah. 

Untsee. 

B*l»>f-g«eli; 


JOURNAL 


•r 


A  VOYAGE, 


i0^ 


THROUGH  THE  NORTH-WEST  CONTINEJ: 

OF  AMERICA. 


■■ 


CHAPTER  h 


of  tl^e  lanci,  Navig«tiuok  of  the  river.  Aniyc  at  4>e  muutli  of  the  Dqg  River. 
Successive  description  of  severti  carrying  places.  A  canoe  lost  in  one  of  the 
I'all^  E^paqw  on  Poi^it.  d»  Kocbo.  Course  contioi^d.  Set  ^  nets,  /l(4;. 
Arrive  at  the  Stave  Lake.  The  weather:  eitreoieljr  cold.  Baalu  of  the  river 
described,  with  its  trees,  soil,  SiC  Aouount  of  tlw  animal  Dodoctioas.stu'i 
the  fishery  of  tlie  La^tf:  QUiged  to  Wj»it  till  tiye  moving  qr  tti^ice.  Tbree 
families  of  Indians  a<  rive  frotu  Athabasca.  Beavers,  geese,  tad  swani  killed. 
'1  ti$  netv  ea^igered  l>y,iue.  Ke-cmborl^  and  Uyid.oa  a  smiH  island.  Coune 
continued  along  the  shores,  and  across  the  bays  of  the  Lake.  Various  siicces- 
ses  uf  tiie  hur^cfii.  Steer  tor  a>i  inland.  wt)«c  the  ^  ^it»f  plenty.of  aanperiiei 
iind  small  unions.  Kill  several rei»deer.  Land  on  an  tsland  named  Isle  a  Ui 
Caclic.    Cloude  of  mutiquttoe*. 

fve^/tes.  S.  J  We  embarked  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, at  Fort  Chepewyan,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
laktt  of  the  Hills,  in  latitude  58.  40.  North,  and  lon- 
gitude 110.  30.  west  from  Greenwich,  and  compasa 
has  sixteen  degrees  variation  east,  in  a  canoe  made 
of  fcirch  bai'k.  The  crew  consisted  of  four  Canadi^uis, 
two  of  whom  were  attended  by  their  wives,  and  %  Qtx- 
man  }  we  were  accompanied  also  by  an  Indiaii,  wfeo 
had  acquired  the  title  of  English  Cljief^  and  his  pf^^ 

Xoie.    It  is  to  be  observed,  that  the  Courses  throughout  the  JetVQals  are  tAtttbr 

C(|R^aW|4nd;tlia{  tl*  Ktfr/fl^io;jn»ustbecoasid€r«;d.  ^' 


i 


112         Journal  of  n  Voyage  through  th^ 

wives,  in  a  small  canoe,  with  two  young  Indians ;  hi# 
followers  in  another  small  canoe.  These  men  were 
engaged  to  serve  us  in  the  two-fold  capacity  of  inter- 
preters and  hunters.  This  Indian  was  one  of  the  fol- 
lowers of  the  chief  who  conducted  Mr.  Hearne  to  the 
copper-mine  river,  and  had  since  been  a  principal  lea- 
der of  his  countrymen  who  were  in  the  habit  of  carry- 
ing furs  to  Churchill  Factory,  Hudson's  Bay,  and  till 
of  late  very  much  attached  to  the  interest  of  that  com- 
pany. These  circumstances  procured  him  the  appel- 
lation of  the  English  Chief. 

We  were  also  accompanied  by  a  canoe  that  I  had 
equipped  for  the  purpose  of  trade,  and  giving  the 
charge  of  it  to  M.  Le  Roux,  one  of  the  Company's 
clerks.  In  this  I  was  obliged  to  ship  part  of  our  pro- 
vision ;  which,  with  the  clothing  necessary  for  us  on 
the  voyage,^  a  proper  assortment  of  the  articles  of 
merchandize  as  presents,  to  ensure  us  a  friendly  recep- 
tion among  the  Indians,'  and  the  ammunition  and  arms 
requisite  for  defence,  as  well  as  a  supply  for  our  hun- 
ters, were  more  than  our  own  canoe  could  carry,  but 
by  the  time  we  should  part  company,  there  was  every 
reason  to  suppose  that  our  expenditure  would  make 
sufficient  room  for  the  whole. 

We  proceeded  twenty-one  miles  to  the  west,  and 
then  took  a  course  of  nine  miles  to  north-north-west, 
when  we  entered  the  river,  or  one  of  the  branches  of 
the  lake,  of  which  there  are  several-  We  then  steer- 
ed north  five  miles,  when  our  course  changed  for  two 
miles  to  north-north  east,  and  here,  at  seven  in  the 
evening,  we  landed  and  pitched  our  tents.  One  of  the 
hunters  killed  a  goose,  and  a  couple  of  ducks ;  at  the 
same  time  the  canoe  was  taken  out  of  the  water,  to 
be  gummed,  which  necessary  business  was  efiectually 
performed. 

Thursday  4.  We  embarked  at  four  this  morning, 
and  proceeded  north-north-east  half  a  mile,  north  one 
mile  and  a  half,  west  two  miles,  north-west  two  miles, 
west-north-west  one  mile  and  a  half,  north-north-west 
half  a  mile,  and  west-north-west  two  miles,  when  this 
branch  loses  itself  in  the  Peace  River.     It  is  remarka- 


North^Weat  Contlmixt  of  Ameriaa*        Xt% 

We,  the  ciU'P^nts  of  these  various  branches  of  the  lake, 
when  the  Fcivcc  River  is  high,  a*  in  May  and  Avigvu»t> 
run  into  the  \aKe,  which  in  the  other  months  of  the 
year  returns  itn  waters  to  them ;  whence  to  this  pUcc, 
tJve  branch  is  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards  widcj 
lV)v  lesH  than  an  hundred  and  twenty.  The  ban^s  are- 
rather  low,  except  in  one  place,  where  an  huge  rock 
rises  above  Uiem.  The  low  land  is  coveredi  with  wood, 
such  as  white  birch,  pines  of  different  l^iuds,  with  tl\e 
poplar,  three  kinds  of  willow,  and  the  liavd.  The  Peace 
kivtr  iii  upwards  of  a  mile  broad  at  this  spot,  and  its 
<;urrent  is;  stronger  than  that  af  the  channel  which 
i^onimunicatca  with  the  lake.  It  here,  indeed,  as- 
sumes the  name  of  the  Siave  River«*  The  course  of 
tills  day  was  as  follows : — North-west  two  miloi,  north- 
i)orth-west,  through  islands,  six  miles,  north  four  miles 
and  a  half,,  north  by  east  two  miles,  west  by  north  six 
miles,  north  one  mile,  north-east  by  eiast  two  miles> 
nortU  one  mile.  We  now  descended  a  rapid,  and  pro- 
ceeded north-west  seven  miles  and  a  half,  north-west 
nine  m^les,  north  by  west  six  miles,  north-west  by  west 
one  mile  and  a  half,  north-west  by  north  half  a  mile, 
noith-northrwest;  six  miles,  north  one  mile,  nortlii-west 
by  west  four  miles,  north-north-east  one  mile.  Here 
we  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dog  River,  where  we 
landed,  and  unloaded  our  ca>noes,  at  half  past  seven  in 
tlte  evening,  on  the  east  side,  and  close  by  the  rapids* 
At  this  sta.tion  the  river  is  near  two  leagues  in  breadth* 
^'Yiduy  5.  A^  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  em- 
biirked,but  unloadedour  canoes  at  the  first  rapid.  When 
wc  had  reloaded,  we  entered  a  small  channel,  which 
is  formed  by  the  islands,  and,  in  about  half  an  hour, 
we  came  to  the  carrying  place.  It  is  three  hundred 
and  eighty  paces  in  length,  and  very  commodious,  ex- 
cept at  the  further  end  of  it.  We  found  some  difftcul- 
ty  in  re*lpading  at  this  spot,  from  the  large  quantity 
of  ice  which  had  not  yet  thawed,  From  hence  to  the 
next  carrying  place,  called  the  Portage  d'lLmbarras, 

*  The  Slave  lodi^ns  itaving  b^^  driven  from  their  original  country,  by  their  ene  - 
tnies  the  Knisteaeaux*  along  the  borders  ot  tliis  part  of  die  river,  it  received  that 
title,  thougk  it  by  no  means  involves  the  idea  of  servitude,  but  was  given  to  the»e 
ftt|i(ive»  as  atetqi  of  Kproacli,  that  denoted  mure  than  cominoa  s^vageaccs. . 


-.  tj* 


•I 


114  Journatofa  Voyage  throttgh  the    - 

is  about  six  miles,  and  is  occasioned  by  the  drift  wood 
filling  up  the  small  channel,  which  is  ont  thousand  and 
twenty  'paces  in  length ;  from  hence  to  the  next  is  one 
mile  and  a  half,  while  the  distance  to  that  which  suc- 
ceeds, does  not  exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  It  is 
about  the  same  length  as  the  last ;  and  from  hence  to 
the  carrying  place  called  the  Mountain,  is  about  four 
miles  further ;  when  we  entered  the  great  river.  The 
smaller  one,  or  the  channel,  affords  by  far  the  best 
passage,  as  it  is  without  hazard  of  any  kind,  though  I 
believe  a  shorter  course  would  be  found  on  the  outside 
of  the  islands,  and  without  so  many  carrying  places. 
That  called  the  Mountain  is  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  paces  in  length  ;  from  thence  to  the  next,  named 
the  Pelican,  there  is  about  a  mile  of  dangerous  rapids. 
The  landing  is  very  steep,  and  close  to  the  fall.  The 
length  of  this  carrying-place  is  eight  hundred  and 
twenty  p^ces. 

The  whole  of  the  party  were  now  employed  in  tak- 
ing the  baggage  and  the  canoe  up  the  hill.  One  of  the 
Indian  canoes  went  down  the  fall,  and  was  dashed  to 
pieces  the  woman  who  had  the  management  of  it,  by 
quitting  it  in  time,  preserved  her  life,  though  she 
lost  the  little  property  it  contained. 

The  course  from  the  place  we  quitted  in  the  mofn- 
ing  is  about  north-west,  and  comprehends  a  distance 
«f  fifteen  miles  ;  from  hence  to  the  next  and  last  car- 
rying place  is  about  nine  miles,  in  which  distance  there 
are  three  rapids  :  course  north-west  by  west.  The  car- 
rying path  is  very  bad,  and  five  hundred  and  thirty -five 
paces  in  Isngth.  Our  canoes  being  lightened,  passed  on 
the  outside  of  the  opposite  island,  which  rendered  the 
carrying  of  the  baggage  very  short  indeed,  being  not 
more  than  the  length  of  a  canoe.  In  the  year  1786, 
five  men  were  drowned,  and  two  canoes  and  some 
packages  lost,  in  the  rapids ,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  which  occasioned  this  place  to  be  called  the 
Portage  dea  JVoyea*  They  were  proceeding  to  the 
Slave  Lake,  in  the  fall  of  that  year,  under  the  direction 
of  Mr.  Guthbert  Grant.  We  proceeded  from  hence 
six  miles,  and  encamped  on  Point  de  Roche,  at  half 


NorthAVest  Continent  of  America,        115 

past  five  in  the  afternoon.  The  men  and  Indians 
were  very  much  fatigued ;  but  the  hunters  had  pro- 
Tided  seven  geescf  a  beaver,  anu  four  ducks. 

Saturday  6.  We  embarked  at  half  past  two  in  the 
morning,  and  steered  north-west  by  north  twenty- 
one  miles,  north-west  by  west  five  miles,  west-north- 
west four  miles,  west  six  miles,  doubled  a  point  north- 
north-east  one  mile,  east  five  mile*.,  north  two  miles, 
north-west  by  north  one  mile  and  a  half,  west-north- 
westthree  miles,  north-east  by  east  two  miles,  doubled 
a  point  one  mile  and  a  half,  west  by  north  nine  miles, 
north-west  by  west  six  miles,  north-north-west  five 
miles  ;  here  we  landed  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
unloaded,  and  encamped.  Nets  were  also  set  in  a 
small  adjacent  river.  We  had  an  head  wind  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  day,  and  the  weather  was  be- 
come so  cold,  that  the  Indians  were  obliged  to  make 
use  of  their  mittens.  In  this  day's  progress  we  kil- 
led seven  geese  and  six  ducks. 

Sunday  7.  At  half  past  three  we  renewed  our  voy- 
age, and  proceeded  west-north-west  one  mile,  round 
an  island  one  mile,  north-west  two  miles  and  an  half, 
south  by  west  three  miles,  west-south-west  one  mile, 
south-west  by  south  half  a  mile,  north-west  three 
miles,  west-north-west  three  miles  and  an  half,  north 
seven  miles  and  a  half,  north-west  by  north  four  miles, 
north  two  miles  and  an  half,  north-west  by  north  two 
miles.  The  rain,  which  had  prevailed  for  some  time, 
now  came  on  with  such  violence,  that  we  were  oblig- 
ed to  land  and  unload,  to  prevent  the  goods  and  bag- 
gage from  getting  wet;  the  weather,  however,  soon 
cleared  up,  so  that  we  reloaded  the  canoe,  and  got 
under  way.  We  now  continued  our  course  north  ten 
miles,  west  one  mile  and  a  half,  and  north  one  mile 
and  a  half,  when  the  r^in  come  on  again,  and  ren- 
dered it  absolutely  necessary  for  us  to  get  on  shore 
for  the  night,  at  about  half  past  three.  We  had  a 
strong  north  north-east  wind  throughout  the  day, 
which  greatly  impeded  us ;  M.  Le  Roux,  however, 
with  his  party,  passed  on  in  search  of  a  landing  place 
more  agreeable  to  them.    The  Indians  killed  a  couplte 


ISI 


\ 


It  I 

ill 


't  1 6  journal  of  a  Voya^  thrmtgk  the 

of  geese,,  and  us  luatiy  (Uich;f..  The  vtu»  contiuued 
throug;.U  tUe  vcmuiuinj  part  oC  the  clay., 

Alondaij  »,  The  i%lit  wa^  very  boi«iteiou8,  ami  the 
rain  did  not  gciwse  till  two  in  the  aiupnoo^  of  this  tlay  ; 
but  as  tlitt  wind  did  not  ubatc  of  its,  violence,  wc  were 
preveutuil  fiouip^oveeding  till  the  movvox^'. 

Tu(tntig,y^  %  Wt;  tmbai'tcd  at  half  past  two  l\^  the 
moniing,  the  weather  being  culm  t\pd  fo^jcy.  J>oo^ 
after  ouv  two  young"  mei»  joined  us,,  whom  we  hatlt  not 
seen  far  tMu  days  ;  but  durrujj;  theiv  absence  they  Kad 
killed  fov^r  beavers  and  ten  j^ecse.,  ^fter  a  tjourse  gf 
Oiie  wile  n©rth-wtjst  by  north,  we  o,b.»crvt'd  an  opening 
ou  the  li^hu  w^iich  we  took  fo.r  a  fcw'l>.  of  tlie  river, 
put  it  proved  tQ  be  a  lake.  We  vetvirncd  and  steered 
soutU^weStt.  by  west  ojie  iiwle  and  a  ba^f,  west-soutU- 
wesi  one  ru,ile  aiid  a  half,  w^st  one  mile;,  when  we  eiv 
tered  a  very  small  branch  otf  the  rivev  on  the  niK^i 
biuik;  at  t4w  mouth  ol'  whieh  I  was  Informed  thcire 
had  been  a  carrying  place,  <»>.wiixg;  to  the  quantity  of 
drift  woody  which  tht  i^  hUt^d  up  the  passage,  but  had 
ninqebeen  cavried  away.  The  cqvu'se  of  this  river  is 
meandering,  and  tends  to  the  uorth,,  and  in  about  ten 
miles  falls  into  the  Slav^  Lake,  where  we  arrived  at  nine 
in  th^  morniivg,  when  we  ^und  a  great  chang^e  i^n  the 
weather,  as  it  was  be<;ome  extremtly  cold*  The  lake 
was  entirely  covei^ed  with  ice»  and  did  not  seem,  in 
iuiy  degree,  to  have  given  way  but  near  the  shore. 
The  gnats  and  musquitoes,  which  were  v^ry  trouble- 
some during  our  passage  along  the  river,  did  not  Ven- 
turis to  accompany  us  to  this  cpider  region. 

lM\e  b«giiks  of  the  rvver,  both  above  and  below  the 
rapids,  were  ow  both  sides  cov<?red  with  the  various 
kinds  of  wood  common  to  this  covmtry ;  particularly 
the  western  side;  the  land  being  lower  and  consisting 
of  a  rich,  black  soil.  This  artificial  ground  is  carri- 
ed down  by  the  stream,  and  rests  upon  drift  wood,  so 
as  to  be  eight  or  ten  feet  deep.  Th^  eastern  banks 
are  more  elevated,  and  the  soil  a  yellow  clay,  mixed 
with  gravel ;  so  that  the  trees  are  neither  so  large  or 
numerous  as  on  the  opiH)site  shore.  The  ground  was 
aot  tl\aw^e4  ai^dve  fQurte<>u  inches  in  depth  i  notwiUi<^ 


n^m 


aio  continued 


North-lVest  Continent  of  America,        ttT 

A 

Standing  the  leaf  was  at  its  fullgrovrthi  while  along 
the  lake  thei'e  was  scarcely  any  appearance  of  verdure. 

The  Indians  informed  me,  that,  at  a  very  small  dis- 
tance from  either  bank  of  the  river,  are  ver/  exten- 
sive plains,  frequented  by  large  herds  of  buffaloes ; 
while  the  moose  and  rein-deer  keep  in  the  woods  that 
border  on  it.  The  beavers,  which  are  in  great  num- 
bers, build  their  habitations  in  the  small  lakes  and  ri- 
vers, as,  in  the  larger  streams,  the  ice  carries  every 
thing  along  with  it,  during  the  spring.  The  mud- ' 
banks  in  the  river  are  covered  with  wild  fowl ;  and  wc 
this  morning  killed  two  swans,  ten  geese,  and  one  bea- 
ver, without  suffering  the  delay  of  an  hour;  so  that 
we  might  have  soon  ftUed  the  canoe  with  them,  if  that 
had  been  our  object. 

From  the  small  river  we  steered  cast,  along  the  in- 
side of  a  long  sand-bank,  covered  with  drift  wood  and 
enlivened  by  a  few  willows,  which  stretches  on  as  far  as 
the  houses  erected  by  Messrs.  Grant  and  Le  Roux, 
in  1T86.  We  often  ran  aground*,  as  for  five  succes- 
sive miles  the  depth  of  the  water  no  where  exceeded 
three  feet.  There  we  found  our  people,  who  had  ar- 
i*ived  early  in  the  morning,  and  whom  we  had  not 
seen  since  the  preceding  Sunday.  We  now  unloaded 
the  canoe,  and  pitched  our  tents,  as  there  was  every 
appearance  that  we  should  be  obliged  to  remain  here 
for  some  time.  I  then  ordered  the  nets  to  be  set,  as 
it  was  absolutely  necessary  that  the  stores  provided  for 
our  future  voyage  should  remain  untouched.  The 
fish  we  now  caught  were  carp,  poisson  *  inconnu,  whitn 
iish,  and  trout. 

Wednesday  10.  It  rained  during  the  greatest  pari 
of  the  preceding  night,  and  the  weather  did  not  clear 
up  till  the  afternoon  of  this  day.  This  circumstance 
had  very  much  weakened  the  ice,  arid  1  sent  two  of  the 
Indians  on  a  hunting  party  to  a  lake  at  the  distance 
of  nine  miles,  which,  they  informed  me,  was  fre- 
quented by  animals  of  various  kinds.  Our  fishery 
this  day  was  not  so  abundant  as  it  had  been  on  the 
preceding  afternoon. 

*  Fitb  that  were  unkaowa. 


i  i 


!  ! 


m 


118        youniai  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

T/iUP8(ifiy  11.  The  weather  was  fine  and  cle^r^ 
with  a.  strong  westerly  wind.  The  women  were  em- 
ployed ia  gathering  berries  of  differeiu  sorts,  of  which 
there  are  a  great  plenty  ;  and  1  aceompanied  one  of 
njy  people  to  a  sipaU  adjacent  island,  where  we  pick- 
ed up.  some  dozens  ojf  sNvan,  geese,  and  duck-eggs  j 
we  also  killed  a  couple  oi^  ducks  and  a  goose. 

Xnt))e  evening  the  Indians  returned,  without  having 
seen  aa»y  of  the  larger  animals.  A  swan  and  a  grey 
crane  were  the  only  fruits  of  their  expedition.  We 
caught  no  other  lish  but  a  snjall  quantity  o?  pike, 
which  is  too  common  to  be  a  fi^voriUf  food  with  the 
people  of  the  country.  The  ice  moved  a  little  to  the 
e^tward. 

jFriday.  12.  The  weather  continued  the  same  as 
yesteixlayj,  and  the  musquitoes  began  to  visit  us  in 
great  nunibers.  The  ice  moved  again  in  the  same 
direction*  and  I  ascended  an  hill,  but  could  not  per. 
ceAve  that  it  was  broken  in  the  middle  of  the  lake. 
The  hunters  killed  a  goose  and  three  ducks. 

^'a.furciay  13.  The  weather  was  cloudy,  and  the 
wind  changeable  till  about  sun-set,  when  it  settled  in 
the  no"th.  It  drove  back  the  ice  which  was  now  very 
much  broken  along  the  shore,  and  covered  our  nets. 
One  of  the  hunters  who  had  been  at  the  Slave  River 
tlie  iwceding  evening,  returned  with  three  beavers 
aJid  fourteen  geese.  He  was  accompanied  by  three 
iamiUes  of  ludiaiis,  who  left  Athabasca  the  same  day 
us  myself:  they  did  not  bring  me  any  fowl:  and  they 
yielded  in  excuse,  that  they  had  travelled  with  so 
much  expedition,  as  to  prevent  tliem  from  procuring 
Kiiflicient  provisions  for  themselves,  ^iy  a  meridian 
line,  1  founfi  the  variation  of  the  compass  to  be  about 
twenty  degree^  east. 

Sunday  U.  The  weather  was  clear  and  the  wind 
reniained  in  the  sam^i  quarter.  The  ice  was  much 
broken,  and  driven  to  the  side  of  the  lake,  so  that  we 
were  app^'ehcnsive  for  the  loss  of  our  nets,  as  tliey 
could  ncM;,  at  present  be  extricated*  At  sun-set,  there 
was  an  appearance  of  a  violent  gust  of  wind  from  the 
southward,  as  the  sky  becanxe  on  a  sudden,  in  that 


Ksrth'West  Ccntinmi  of  America*        119 


n.  were  em- 


^juarter,  of  a  Very  idiisky  blue  color,  and  the  light- 
ning was  very  frequent.  But  instead  of  wind  therie 
came  on  a  heavy  I'ain,  which  pvoinised  to  diminish 
the  quantity  of  broken  ice. 

Monday  15.  In  the  morning,  the  bay  still  continu- 
ed to  be  so  full  of  ice,  that  we  could  not  get  at  our 
nets.  About  noon,  the  wind  veered  to  thie  westward, 
and  not  only  uncovered  the  nets,  but  cleared  a  pas- 
sage to  the  opposite  islands.  When  we  raised  the 
nets  we  found  them  very  much  shattered,  and  but 
few  fish  taken.  We  now  struck  our  tents,  and  em- 
barked at  sun- set,  when  we  made  the  traverse.  Which 
was  about  eight  miles  north>east  by  north,  in  about 
two  hours.  At  half  past  eleven,  P.  M.  we  landed  on 
a  small  island,  and  proceeded  to  gum  the  canoe.  At 
this  time  the  atmosphere  was  sufficiently  clear  to  ad- 
mit of  reading  or  writing  without  the  aid  of  artificial 
light.  We  had  not  seen  a  star  since  the  second  day 
after  we  left  Athabasca.  About  twelve  o'clock,  the 
moon  made  its  appearance  above  the  tops  of  the  trees, 
the  lower  horn  being  in  a  state  of  eclipse,  which  con- 
tinued for  about  six  minutes,  in  a  cloudless  sky. 

I  took  soundings  three  times  in  the  course  of  th15 
traverse,  when  I  found  six  fatlioms  water,  with  a  mud- 
dy bottom. 

Tue&daij  1&.  We  were  prevented  from  embarking 
this  morning  by  a  very  strong  wind  from  the  north, 
and  the  vast  quantity  of  floating  ice.  Some  trout  were 
caught  with  the  hook  and  line,  but  the  net  was  not  so 
successful.  I  had  an  observation  which  gave  61.  28. 
north  latitude. 

The  wind  becoming  moderate,  we  embarked  about 
one,  taking  a  north-west  course,  through  islands,  of 
ten  miles,  in  which  we  took  in  a  considerable  quantity 
of  water.  After  making  several  traverses,  we  landed 
at  fi-e  P.  M.  and  having  pitched  our  tents,  the  hooks, 
lines,  and  nets,  were  immediately  set.  During  the 
course  of  the  day,  there  was  occasional  thunder. 

Wednesday  17.  We  proceeded,  and  taking  up  our 
nets  as  we  passed,  we  found  no  more  than  seventeen 
fish,  and  were  stopped  Within  a  mile  by  the  ice.    Tht 


120         Journalof  a  Voyage  through  the 

Indians)  however,  brought  us  back  to  a  point  where 
our  fishery  was  very  successful.  They  proceeded  al- 
so on  a  hunting  party,  as  well  as  to  discover  a  passage 
among  the  islands ;  but  at  three  in  the  afternoon,  they 
returned  without  having  succeeded  in  either  object. 
We  were,  however,  va  expectation,  that,  as  the  wind 
blew  very  strong,  it  would  force  a  passage^  About 
sun-set,  the  weather  became  overcast,  with  thunder, 
lightning,  and  rain. 

Thursday  18.  The  nets  were  taken  up  at  four  this 
morning  with  abundance  of  fish,  and  we  steered  north- 
west, four  miles,  where  the  i<5e  again  prevented  our 
progress.  A  south-east  wind  drove  it  among  the 
islands  in  such  a  manner  as  to  impede  our  passage, 
and  we  could  perceive  at  some  distance  a-head,  that  it 
was  but  little  broken.  We  now  set  our  nets  in  four 
fathom  Water.  Two  of  our  hunters  had  killed  a  rein- 
deer audits  fawn.  They  had  met  with  two  Indian  fa- 
milies, and  in  the  evening,  a  man  belonging  to  one  of 
them,  paid  us  a  visit :  he  informed  me,  that  the  ice 
had  not  stirred  on  tlie  side  of  the  island  opposite  to 
us.  These  people  live  entirely  on  Ssh,and  were  wait- 
ing to  cross  the  lake  as  soon  it  should  be  clear  of  ice. 

Friday  19.  This  morning  our  nets  were  unproduc- 
tive, as  they  yielded  us  no  more  than  six  fish,  which 
were  of  a  very  bad  kind.  In  the  forenoon,  the  Indi- 
ans proceeded  to  the  large  island  opposite  to  us,  in 
search  of  game.  The  weather  was  cloudy,  and  the 
wind  changeable  :  at  the  same  time,  we  were  pestered 
by  rausquitoes,  though,  in  a  great  measure,  surround- 
ed with  ice." 

Saturday  20.  We  took  up  our  nets,  but  without 
any  fish.  It  rained  very  hard  during  the  night  and 
this  morning:  nevertheless,  M.  Le  Roux  and  his 
people  went  back  to  the  point  which  we  had  quitted 
en  the  18th,  but  I  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  move, 
as  I  was  watching  for  a  passage  through  the  ice,  I  pro- 
mised to  send  for  them  wlien  I  could  obtain  it.  It  rained 
at  intervals  till  about  five  o'clock ;  when  we  loaded 
our  canoe,  and  steered  for  the  large  island,  west  six 
miles.     When  we  came  to  the  point  of  it,  we  found  a 


Korth'WeH  Continent  ofJLwerica* 


IH 


gfeat  quantity  of  ice ;  we,  however,  set  our  nets,  and 
soon  caught  plenty  of  fish.  In  our  way  thither  we 
met  our  hunters,  but  they  had  taken  nothing.  I  took 
soundings  at  an  hundred  yards  from  the  island,  when 
we  were  in  twenty-one  fathom  water.  Here  we  found 
abundance  of  cranberries  and  small  spring  onions  I 
now  dispatched  two  men  for  M.  Le  Roux;  and  his 
people. 

ilunday  31.  A  southerly  wind  blew  through  the 
night,  and  drove  the  ice  to  the  northward.  The  two 
men  whom  I  had  sent  to  M.  Le  Roux,  returned  at 
eight  this  mo?ning ;  they  parted  with  him  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  us,  but  the  wind  blew  so  hard,  that  he  was 
obliged  to  put  to  shore.  Having  a  glimpse  of  the  sun, 
when  it  was  twelve  by  my  watch,  I  found  the  latitude 
61.  34.  north  latitude.  At  two  in  the  afternoon,  M. 
Ls  Roux,  and  his  people  arrived.  At  five,  the  ice  be- 
ing almost  all  driven  past  to  the  northwarid,  we  accor- 
dingly embarked,  and  steered  west  fifteen  miles> 
through  much  broken  ice,  and  on  the  outside  of  the 
islands,  though  it  appeared  to  be  yery  solid  to  the 
north-east.  I  sounded  three  times  in  this  distance^ 
and  found  it  seventy-five,  forty-four,  and  sixty  fathom 
water.  We  pitched  our  tents  on  one  of  a  cluster  of 
small  islands  that  were  within  three  miles  of  the  main 
land,  which  we  could  not  reach  incon.sequence  of  the  icc^ 
We  saw  some  rein-deer  on  one  of  the  islands^ 
and  our  hunters  went  in  pursuit  of  them,  when  they 
killed  Ave  large  and  two  small  ones,  which  was  easi- 
ly accomplished,  as  the  animals  had  no  shelter  to 
which  they  could  run  for  protection.  They  had, 
without  doubt,  crossed  the  ice  to  this  spot,  and  the 
thaw  coming  on  had  detained  them  there,  and  made 
them  an  easy  prey  to  the  pursuer.  This  island  was 
accordingly  named  Isle  de  Carreboeuf. 

I  sat  up  the  whole  of  this  night  to  observe  the  set- 
ting and  rising  of  the  sun.  That  orb  was  beneath  the 
horizon  four  hours  twenty-two  minutes,  and  rose  north 
20  east  by  compass.  It  however,  froze  so  hard,  that 
during  the  sun's  disappearance  the  water  was  cover- 
ed with  ice  half  a. quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 


hi*  i 


!!! 


116!?     >  *  •'  ycurnal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

Monday  22.  We  embarked  at  half  past  three  In 
the  morning,  and  rounding  the  outside  of  the  islands 
Bteered  north-west  thirteen  miles  along  the  ice,  edg- 
ing in  for  the  main  land,  the  wind  west,  then  west  two 
miles;  but  it  blew  so  hard  as  to  oblige  us  to  land  on 
an  island  at  half  past  nine,  from  whence  we  could  just 
distinguish  land  to  the  south-east,  at  the  distance  of 
about  twelve  leagues ;  though  we  could  not  determine, 
whether  it  was  a  continuation  of  the  islands,  or  the 
shores  of  the  lake.*  I  took  an  observation  at  noon, 
which  gave  me  61.  53.  north,  the  variation  of  the 
compass  being,  at  the  same  time,  about  two  points* 
M.  Le  Roux's  people  having  provided  two  bags  of 
/i€7mcanf  to  be  left  in  the  isbnd  against  their  return  j 
it  was  called  Jsle  a  la  Cache, 

The  wind  being  moderated,  wo  proceeded  again  at 
half  past  two  in  the  afternoon,  and  steering  west  by 
north  among  the  islands,  made  a  course  of  eighteen 
miles.  We  encamped  at  eight  o'clock  on  a  small 
island,  and  since  eight  in  the  morning  had  not  passed 
any  ice.  Though  the  weather  was  far  from  being 
warm,  we  were  tormented,  and  our  rest  interrupted, 
by  the  host  of  musquitoes  that  accompanied  us. 


CHAPTER  IL 


II!:         ' 


il 


3 


landed  at  some  lodges  of  Red-Knife  Indians :  procure  one  of  them  to  assist  in  na- 
vigating the  bajs.  Conference  with  tlie  Indians.  Take  leave  of  M.  Le  Roux, 
and  continue  the  voyage.  Difterent  appearances  of  the  land  ;  its  vegetable 
produce.  Visit  an  island  wliere  the  woixl  liad  been  felled.  Further  descrip- 
tion of  the  Coast.  Plenty  of  rein  and  moose-deer,  and  white  partridges. 
Enter  a  very  deep  bay.  Interrupted  by  ice.  Very  blowing  weather.  Co«- 
tinue  to  coast  the  bay.  Arrive  at  the  moutli  of  a  river.  Great  numbers  of  lish 
and  wild-fowl.  Description  of  the  land  oiveiiher  side.  Cuiious  appearance 
of  woods  that  Iiad  been  burned.  Co  me  in  sight  of  the  Horn  Mountain. 
Continue  to  kill  geese  and  swans,  &c.     Violent  storm. 

June,  1789.7np  .  ,         x     ,•  ,        ,     j 

rwiovArvsa.i  X  owARDS  mommg,  the  Indians  who  had 
not  been  able  to  keep  up  with  us  the  preceding  davi 
now  joined  us,  and  brought  two  swans  and  a  goose. 
At  half  past  three  we  re-embarked,  and  steering  west 

•  Sometimes  the  land  looms,  so  that  there  may  be  a  great  deception  as  to  the 
distance  :  and  I  think  this  was  tlie  case  at  present. 
+  Flesli  dried  in  tbe  &uji«  a  ad  afterwards  puunded  for  tlie  coaveotcRce  ofcV 

riage. 


Korth'West  Continent  of  America*         If  5 


by  north  a  mile  and  an  half,  with  a  northerly  wind, 
we  cam.e  to  the  foot  of  a  traverse  across  a  deep  bay, 
west  five  miles,  which  receives  a  considerable  river  at 
the  bottom  of  it  ;  the  distance  about  twelve  miles, 
The  north-west  aide  of  the  bay  was  covered  with 
many  small  islands  that  were  surrounded  with  ice  ; 
but  the  wind  driving  it  a  little  off  the  land,  we  had  a 
clear  passage  on  the  inside  of  them.  We  steered 
south-west  nine  miles  under  sail,  then  north- west, 
nearly,  through  the  islands,  forming  a  course  of  six- 
teen miles.  We  landed  on  the  main  land  at  half 
past  two  in  the  afternoon  at  three  lodges  of  Red- 
Knife  Indians,  so  called  from  their  copper  knives. 
They  informed  us,  that  there  were  many  more  lodg- 
es of  their  friends  at  no  great  distance  j  and  one  of 
the  Indians  set  off  to  fetch  them  :  they  also  said,  that 
we  should  see  no  more  of  them  at  p'esent  ;  as  the 
Slave  and  Beaver  Indians,  as  well  as  others  of  the 
tribe,  would  not  be  here  tiJI  the  time  that  the  swans 
cast  their  feathers.  In  tW/i^ernoon  it  rained  a  tor- 
rent. ' '  ^'''5^>?i.-. 

Wedneadaij  24.  M.  Lfe  ifel^Sfurchased  of  these 
Indians  upwards  of  eight  pa<ck4  ^oC  ti^eed  beaver  and 
martin  skins ;  and  there  were  vi(k  ta^^ve  twelve  of 
them  qualified  to  kill  beaver.  The  ^n^lish  chief  got 
upwards  of  an  hundred  skins  on  the  score  of  debts 
due  to  him,  of  which  he  had  many  outstanding  in 
this  country.  Forty  of  them  he  gave  on  account  of 
debts  due  by  him  since  the  winters  of  1786  and  1787, 
at  the  Slave  Lake  ;  the  rest  he  exchanged  for  rum 
and  other  necessary  articles  ;  and  I  added  a  small 
quantity  of  that  liquor  as  an  encouraging  present  to 
him  and  his  young  men.  I  had  several  consultations 
with  these  Copper  Indian  people,  but  could  obtain 
no  information  that  was  material  to  our  expedition  ; 
nor  were  they  acquainted  with  any  part  of  the  river, 
which  was  the  object  of  my  research,  but  the  mouth 
of  it.  In  order  to  save  as  much  time  as  possible  in 
circumnavigating  the  bays,  I  engaged  one  of  the  In- 
dians to  conduct  us  ;  and  I  accordingly  equipp«d  him 
with  various  articles  of  clothing,  Sec.  I  also  purchased 


ii! 


■iP 


^rP 


IJW  Journal  of  a  Voynge  through  thg 

a  large  new  canoe,  that  he  might  embark  with  tK^ 
iwo  young  Indians  in  my  service. 

This  day,  at  noon,  I  took  an  observation,  which 
i;ave  me  62.  24.  north  latitude  ;  the  variation  of  the 
compass  being  about  twenty>six  or  twenty-seven  de- 
grees to  the  east. 

In  the  afternoon  I  assembled  the  Indians,  in  order 
to  inform  them  that  I  should  take  my  departure  on 
the  following  day;  but  that  people  would  remain  on 
the  spot  till  their  countrymen,  v/hom  they  had  men- 
tioned, should  arrive  }  and  that,  if  they  brought  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  skins  to  make  it  answer,  the 
Canadians  would  return  for  more  goods,  with  a  vieW 
to  winter  here,  and  build  a  fort,*  which  would  bfc 
continued  as  long  as  they  should  be  found  to  deserve 
k.  They  assured  me,  that  it  would  be  a  great  encou- 
ragement to  them  to  have  a  settlement  of  ours  in 
their  country ;  and  that  they  should  exert  themselven 
to  the  utmost  to  kill  beaver,  as  they  would  then  be 
certain  of  getting  an  adequate  value  for  them.  Hi- 
therto, they  said,  the  Chepewyans  always  pillaged 
them ;  or,  at  most,  gave  little  or  nothing  for  the 
fruits  of  their  labour,  which  had  greatly  discouraged 
them  ;  and  that,  in  consequence  of  this  treatment, 
they  had  no  motive  to  pursue  the  beaver,  but  to  ob- 
tain a  sufficient  quantity  of  food  and  raiment. 

I  now  wrote  to  Messrs.  Macleod  and  Mackenzie, 
and  addressed  my  papers ,  to  the  former,  at  Atha- 
basca. 

Thursday  25.  We  left  this  place  at  three  this 
morning,  our  canoe  being  deeply  laden,  as  We  had 
embarked  some  packages  that  had  come  in  the  canoes 
of  M.  Le  Roux.  We  were  saluted  on  our  departure 
with  some  vollies  of  small  arms,  which  we  returned, 
and  steered  south  by  west  straight  across  the  bay, 
which  is  here  no  more  than  two  miles  and  a  half 
broad,  but,  from  the  accounts  of  the  natives,  it  is 
iifteen  leagues  in  depth,  with  a  much  greater  breadth 
in  several  parts,  and  full  of  islands.  I  sounded  in 
the  course  of  the  traverse  and  found  six  fathoms  with 

*  F«i  t)  is  th«  aame  given  f  any  establishment  in  tliis  countf^A 


%m 


North'lVest  Continent  of  America.        125 


»ark  with  thi 


a  sanely  bottom.  Here,  the  land  has  a  very  different 
appearance  from  that  on  which  we  have  been  since 
we  entered  the  lake.  Till  we  arrived  here  there  was 
one  continued  view  of  high  hills  and  islands  of  solid 
rock»  whose  surface  was  occasionally  enlivened  with 
moss,  shrubs,  and  a  few  scattered  trees,  of  a  very 
stinted  growth  from  an  insufficiency  of  soil  to  nourish 
them.  But  notwithstanditig  their  barren  appearance* 
iilmost  every  part  of  them  produces  berries  of  various 
kinds,  such  as  cranberries,  juniper-l)erries,  raspber- 
ries, partridge-berries,  gooseberries,  and  the  path- 
agomenan,  which  is  something  like  a  raspberry  ;  it 
grows  on  a  small  stalk  about  a  foot  and  a  half  high, 
in  wet,  mossy  spots.  These  fruits  are  in  great  a- 
bundance,  though  they  are  not  to  be  found  in  the 
same  places,  but  in  situations  and  aspects  suited  t» 
their  peculiar  natures. 

The  land  which  borders  the  lake  in  this  part  is 
loose  and  sandy,  but  is  well  fioy^ered  with  wood,  com- 
posed of  trees  of  a  larger  growth  ^  it  gradually  rises 
from  the  shore,  and  at  some  dia^tfetiide  forms  a  ridge  of 
high  land  running  along  the  coast,,  thick  with  wood 
and  a  rocky  summit  rising  above  it. 

We  steered  south-soutli-east  nine  miles,  when  we 
were  very  much  interrupted  by  drifting  ice,  and 
with  some  difficulty  reached  an  island,  where  we, 
hmded  at  seven.  I  immediately  proceeded  to  the 
further  part  of  it,  in  order  to  discover  if  there  was 
any  probability  of  our  being  able  to  get  from  thence 
in  the  course  of  the  day.  It  is  about  five  miles  in 
circumference,  and  I  was  very  much  surprised  to^, 
tind  that  the  greater  part  of  the  wood  with  which  it 
v.us  formerly  covered,  had  been  cut  down  with- 
in twelve  or  fifteen  yeai's,  and  that  the  remaining 
stumps  were  become  altogether  rotten.  On  making 
inc][uiry  concerning  the.  cause  of  this  extraordinary 
circumstance,  the  English  chief  informed  me,  that 
several  winters  ago,  many  of  the  Slave  Indians 
inhabited,  the  Islands  that  were  scattered  over 
the  bay,  as  the  suiTounding  waters  abound  with  fish, 
throughout  the  year,  but  that  they  had  been  drivel;^; 

L  2 


m 


ill    -  '" 


126  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  th^ 

away  by,  the  Knisteneaujt,  who  continually  made  war 
upon  them.  If  an  establishment  is  to  be  made  in 
this  country,  it  must  be  in  the  neighbourhood  of  this 
place  on  account  of  the  wood  and  the  fishery. 

At  eleven  we  ventured  to  re-embark,  as  the  wind 
had  driven  the  {greatest  part  of  the  ice  past  the  island, 
though  we  still  had  to  encounter  some  broken  pieces 
of  it,  which  threatened  to  damage  our  canoe.  We 
«teered  south-east  from  point  to  point  across  five  bay^, 
twenty-one  miles.  We  took  soundings  several  times, 
And  found  from  six  to  ten  fathom  water.  I  observed 
that  the  country  gradually  descended  inland,  and  was 
still  better  covered  with  wood  than  in  the  higher  parts* 
Wherever  we  approached  the  land,  we  perceived  de- 
serted lodges.  The  hunters  killed  two  swans  and  a 
beaver  ;  and  at  length  we  landed  at  eight  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  when  we  unloaded  and  gummed  oup 
canoe. 

Friday  26,  We  continued  our  route  at  five  o'clock, 
iteering  south-east  for  ten  miles  across  two  deep  bays ; 
then  south-south-east  with  islands  in  sight  to  the 
eastward.  We  then  traversed  another  bay  in  a  course 
of  three  miles,  then  south  one  mile  to  a  point  which 
we  named  the  Detour,  and  south-south-west  four  miles 
and  an  half,  when  there  was  an  heavy  swell  off  the 
lake.  Here  I  took  an  observation,  when  we  were  in 
6K  40.  north  latitude.  We  then  proceeded  south- 
west four  miles,  and  west-south-west  among  islands : 
on  one  of  which  out*  Indians  killed  two  rein-deer,  but 
we  lost  thi'ee  hours  aft  wind  in  going  for  them  :  this 
course  was  nine  miles.  About  seven  in  the  evening 
we  were  obliged  to  land  for  the  night,  as  the  wind 
became  too  strong  from  the  south-east.  We  thought 
we  could  observe  land  in  this  direction  when  the  wind 
was  coming  on  from  some  distance.  On  the  other 
side  of  the  Detour,  the  land  is  low,  and  the  shore  is 
flat  and  dangerous,  there  being  no  safe  place  to  land 
in  bad  weather,  exceitt  in  the  islands  which  we  had 
just  passed.  There  seeitied  to  be  plenty  of  moose 
and  rein-deer  in  this  country,  as  we  saw  their  tracks 
vrhevcver  we  lauded*    There  were  also  great  numbers 


North'West  Continent  of  America*        127 

of  white  partridges,  which  arc  at  this  season  of  a 
grey  colour,  like  that  of  the  moor-fowl.  There  wa« 
some  floating  ice  in  the  lake,  and  the  Indians  killed  a 
couple  of  swans. 

Saturday  27.  At  three  this  morning  we  were  in 
the  canoe,  after  having  passed  a  very  restless  night 
from  the  persecution  of  the  musquitocs.  The  wea- 
ther was  fine  and  calm,  aud  our  course  west-south- 
west nine  miles,  when  we  came  to  the  foot  of  a  tra- 
verse, the  opposite  point  in  sight  bearing  south-west, 
distance  twelve  miles.  The  bay  is  at  least  eight  miles 
deep,  and  this  course  two  miles  more,  in  all  ten  miles* 
It  now  became  very  foggy,  and  as  the  bays  were  so 
numerous,  we  landed  for  two  hours,  when  the  wea- 
ther cleared  up ;  and  we  took  the  advantage  of  steer- 
ing south  thirteen  miles,  and  passed  several  small 
bays,  when  we  came  to  the  point  of  a  very  deep  one^ 
whose  extremity  was  not  discernible  ;  the  land  bear- 
ing south  from  us,  at  the  distance  of  about  ten  miles. 
Our  guide  not  having  been  here  for  eight  winters, 
was  at  a  loss  wliat  course  to  take,  though  as  well  as  he 
could  recollect,  this  bay  appeared  to  be  the  entrance 
of  the  river.  Accordingly,  we  steered  down  it,  about 
west-south-west,  till  we  were  involved  in  a  field  of 
broken  ice.  We  still  could  not  discover  the  bottom 
of  the  bay,  and  a  fog  coming  on,  made  it  very  diflT- 
cult  for  us  to  get  to  an  island  to  the  south-west,  and 
it  was  nearly  dark  when  we  effected  a  landing. 

Sunday  28.  At  a  quarter  past  three  we  wfiVQ  again 
on  the  water,  and  as  we  could  perceive  no  current 
setting  into  this  bay,  we  made  the  best  of  our  way  to 
the  point  that  bore  south  from  us  yesterday  afternoon. 
We  continued  our  course  south  three  miles  more, 
south  by  west  seven  miles,  west,  fifteen  miles,  when, 
by  observation,  we  were  in  6  1  degrees  north  latitude; 
we  then  proceeded  west-north-west  two  miles.  Here 
we  came  to  the  foot  of  a  traverse,  the  opposite  land 
bearing  south-west,  distance  fourteen  miles,  when  we 
•tiered  into  a  deep  bay,  about  a  westerly  course  ;  and 
though  we  had  no  land  a-head  in  sight,  we  indulged' 
the  hope  of  finding  a  passage,  which,  according  to  the 
Indian,  would  conduct  us  to  the  entrance  of  the  river. 


138        jfournaJ  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


I 


1^ 


Having  a  strongs  wind  aft,  we  lost  sight  of  the  In- 
cli.ans)  nor  could  we  put  on  shore  to  wait  for  them, 
without  risking  matorial  damage  to  the  canoe,  till  we 
ran  to  the  bottom  of  the  l)ay,  and  were  forced  among 
the  rushes ;  when  we  discovered  that  there  was  no 
passage  there.  In  about  two  or  three  hours  they 
joined  us,  but  would  not  approach  our  fire,  as  there 
was  no  good  ground  for  an  encampmcnl :  they  emp- 
tied their  canoe  of  the  water  which  it  had  taken  in. 
and  continued  their  route^  but  did  not  encamp  till  sun- 
set. The  English  chief  was  very  much  irritated 
against  the  Red-K.nife  Indian,  and  even  threatened  to 
murder  him,  for  having  undertaken  to  guide  us  in  a 
course  of  which  he  was  ignorant;  nor  had  we  any 
reason  to  be  satisfied  with  him,  though  he  still  con- 
tinued to  jencourage  us,  by  declaring  that  he  recollect- 
ed having  passed  from  the  river>  through  the  woods, 
to  the  place  where  he  had  landed.  In  the  blowini; 
weather  to-day,  we  were  obliged  to  make  use  of  our 
large  kettle,  to  keep  our  canoe  from  filling,  although 
we  did  not  carry  above  three  feet  sail.  The  Indiana 
Tery  narrowly  escaped. 

Monday  29*  We  embarked  at  four  this  morning, 
and  steered  along  the  south-west  side  of  the  bay.  At 
half  past  five  we  reached  the  extremity  of  the  point, 
ivhich  we  doubled,  and  found  it  to  be  the  branch  or 
passage  that  was  the  object  of  our  search,  and  occa- 
sioned by  afii^ery  long  island,  which  separates  it  from 
the  main  channel  of  the  river.  It  is  about  half  a  mile 
across,  and  not  more  than  six  feet  in  depth ;  the  Ava- 
ter  appeared  Do  abound  in  fish,  an,d  was  covered  with 
fowl,  such  as  swans,  geese,  and  several  kinds  of 
ducks,  particularly  black  ducks,  that  were  very  nu- 
merous, but  we  could  not  get  within  gun-shot  of. 
taem. 

The  current,  though  not  very  strong,  set  us  south- 
west by  west,  and  we  followed  this  course  fourteen 
miles,  till  we  passed  the  point  of  the  long  island, 
"Where  the  Slave  Lake  discharges  itself,  and  is  ten 
miles  ia  breadth.    There  is  not  more  tlian  from  five 


J^orth'West  Continent  of  Amerktt*        12§ 

Ho  two  fathom  water,  so  that  when  the  lake  is  low,  it 
may  be  presumed  tlie  greatest  part  of  this  channel 
must  be  dry.  The  river  now  turns  to  the  westward, 
becoming  gradually  narrower,  for  twenty-four  miles, 
till  it  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile  wide ;  the  current, 
however,  is  then  much  stronger,  and  the  soundings 
were  three  fathoms  and  an  half.  The  land  on  the 
north  shore  from  the  lake  is  low,  and  covered  with 
trees  \  that  to  the' south  is  much  higher,  and  has  also 
an  abundance  of  wood.  The  current  is  very  strong, 
and  the  banks  are  of  an  equal  height  on  both  sides, 
consisting  of  a  yellow  cl^y,  mixed  with  small  stones  ; 
they  are  covered  with  large  quantities  of  burned 
wood,  lying  on  the  ground,  and  young  poplar  trees, 
that  have  «^^})rungup  since  the  fire  that  destroyed  the 
larger  wood.  It  is  a  very  curious  and  extraordinary 
circumst.  -nee,  that  land  covered  with  spruce-pine,  and 
white  birch,  when  laid  waste  by  fire,  should  subse- 
quently produce  nothing  but  poplars,  where  none  of 
that  species  of  tree  were  previously  to  be  found. 

A  stiff  breeze  from  the  eastward  drove  us  on  at  a 
great  rate  under  sail,  in  the  same  course,  though  ob- 
liged to  wind  among  islands.  We  kept  the  north 
channel  for  about  ten  miles,  whose  current  is  much 
stronger  than  that  of  the  south  j  so  that  the  latter  is 
consequently  the  better  road  to  come  up.  Here  the 
river  widened,  and  the  wind  dying  away,  we  had  re- 
course to  our  paddles.  We  kept  our  course  to  the 
north-west,  on  the  north  side  of  ihe  river,  which  is 
here  much  wider,  and  assumes  the  form  of  a  small 
lake;  we  could  not,  however,  discover  an  opening  in 
any  direction,  so  that  we  were  at  a  loss  what  course  to 
take,  as  our  Red-Knife  Indian  hud  never  explored 
beyond  our  present  situation.  He  at  the  same  time 
informed  us  that  a  river  falls  in  from  the  north,  which 
takes  its  rise  in  the  Horn  Mountain,  now  in  sight, 
which  is  the  country  of  the  Beaver  Indians  ;  and  that 
he  and  his  relations  frequently  meet  on  that  river. 
He  also  added,  that  there  are  very  extensive  plains  on 
both  sides  of  it,  which  abound  in  buffaloes  and 
mpose-deer. 


130  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


I! 


By  keeping  this  course,  we  got  into  shallows,  so  that 
urc  were  foixed  to  steer  to  the  left,  till  we  recovered 
deep  water,  which  we  followed,  till  the  channel  of 
the  river  opened  on  us  to  the  southward ;  we  now 
made  for  the  shore,  and  encamped  soon  after  sun-set. 
Our  course  ought  to  have  been  west  fifteen  miles, 
since  we  took  to  the  paddle,  the  Horn  Mountains 
bsanng  from  us  north-west,  and  running  north-north- 
cast,  and  south-south-west.  Our  soundings,  which 
were  frequent  during  the  course  of  the  day,  were  from 
three  to  six  fathoms  water.  The  hunters  killed  two 
geese  and  a  swan  :  it  appeared  indeed,  that  great 
numbers  of  fowls  breed  in  the  islands  wluch  we  had 
passed^ 

Tuesday  30.  At  four  this  morning  we  got  under 
way,  the  weather  being  fine  and  calm.  Our  course 
was  sou4h-west  by  south  thirty-six  miles*  On  the 
south  side  of.  the  river  is  a  ridge  of  low  mountains, 
^traning  east  and  west  by  compass.  The  Indians 
picked  up  a  white  goose,  which  appeared  to  have 
been  lately  shot  with  an  arrow,  and  was  quite  fresh. 
We  proceeded  south-west  by  south  six  miles,  and  then 
came  to  a  bay  on  our  left,  which  is  full  of  small 
islands,  and  appeared  to  be  the  entrance  of  a  river 
from  the  south.  Here  the  ridge  of  mountains  termi- 
nates*    This  course  was  fifteen  miles. 

At  six  in  the  afternoon,  there  was  an  appearance 
of  bad  weather ;  we  landed,  therefore,  for 4he  night  j^ 
but  before  we  could  pitch  our  tents,  a  violent  tempest 
came  on,  with  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain,  which, 
however,  soon  ceased,  but  not  before  we  had  suffered 
the  iii^f  onvenience  of  being  drenched  by  it.  The  In- 
dians were  very  much  fatigued,  having  been  employ- 
ed in  running  after  wild  fowl,  which  had  lately  cast 
tlieir  feathers  ;  they,  however,  caught  five  swans,  and 
the  same  number  of  geese.  I  sounded  several  times 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  found  from  four  to  six 
fathoms  water. 


}^orth-Wett  Continent  ofAmerUa*         13 1 


CHAPTER  III. 


Continue  our  rourse.  The  river  nanows.  Lost  the  lead.  Ifassed  a  small  riT«r, 
Violent  rain.  Land  on  a  small  island.  Expect  to  arrive  at  the  rapids,  Con-i 
ceal  ^vo  bags  of  pemican  in  an  island.  A  view  of  mountains.  Pass  several 
cnoampments  of  the  natives.  Arrive  among  the  islands.  Ascend  an  hill. 
Violence  of  the  current  Ice  seen  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  Land  at  a 
Tillage  of  the  natives.  Their  conduct  and  appearance.  Their  fabulous  stories. 
The  English  Chief  and  Indians  discontented.  Obtain  a  new  guide.  Singu< 
lar  customs  of  the  natives.  An  account  of  their  dances.  Description  of 
their  persons,  dress,  ornaments,  buildings,  arms  for  war  and  hunting,  canoeai 
Al'c.  Passed  on  among  islands.  Encamped  beneatli  an  hill,  and  prevented 
from  ascending  by  the  musquitoes.  Landed  at  an  encampment.  Conduct  of 
fhe  inhabitants.  They  abound  in  fabulous  accounts  of  dangen.  Land  at 
Mtier  encampments.  Procure  ple'.Uy  of  hares  and  partridges.  Our  guide 
anxious  to  return.  Land  and  alarm  the  natives,  called  the  Hare  Indians,  &c. 
Exchange  our  {^uide.    State  of  the  weather. 

7&K  }  A'"  half  past  four  in  the  morning  we  con- 
tinued our  voyage,  and  in  a  short  time  found  the  ri- 
ver narrowed  to  about  half  a  mile.  Our  course  wa« 
westerly  among  islands,  with  a  strong  current. 
Though  the  land  is  high  on  both  sides,  the  banks  are 
not  perpendicular.  This  course  was  twenty-one 
miles  ;  and  on  sounding  we  found  nine  fathoms  wa- 
ter. We  then  pi'oceeded  west-north-west  nine  miles, 
and  passed  a  river  upon  the  south-east-side;  we 
sounded,  and  found  twelve  fathoms ;  and  then  we 
went  north-west  by  west  three  miles.  Here  I  lost 
itiy  lead,  w'hich  had  fastened  at  the  bottom,  with  pait 
of  the  line,  the  current  running  so  stron^^  that  we 
could  not  cljpar  it  with  eight  paddles,  and  tjic,  strength 
of  the  line,  which  was  equal  to  four  paddles.  Conti- 
nued north  by  west  five  miles,  and  saw  an  high  moun- 
tain, bearing  south  from  us ;  we  then  proceeded 
north-west  by  north  four  miles.  We  now  passed  a 
small  river  on  the  north  side,  then  doubled  a  point  to 
west-south-west.  At  one  o'clock  there  came  on  light- 
ning and  thunder,  with  wind  and  rain,  which  ceased 
in  about  half  an  hour,  and  left  us  almost  deluged  with 
wet  as  we  did  not  land.  There  were  great  quantitiea 
of  ice  along  the  banks  of  the  river. 

We  landed  upon  a  small  island,  where  there  were 
the  poles  of  fQur  lodges  standing,  which  we  conclud- 
ed to  have  belonged  to  the  Knisteneaux,  on  their 
WW  excursions,  six  or  seven  years  ago.     This  course 


18S         Journal  of  a  Voyage  thfmgh  the 

was  fifteen  miles  west,  to  where  the  river  cf  th? 
Mountain  falls  in  from  the  southward.  ,  It  appears 
to  be  a  very  large  river,  whose  mouth  is  half  a  mile 
broad.  About  six  miles  further  a  small  river  flows 
in  the  same  direction;  and  our  whole  course  was 
twenty-four  miles.  We  landed  opposite  to  an  island, 
the  mountains  to  the  southward  being  in  sight.  As 
our  canoe  was  deeply  laden,  and  being  also  in  daily 
expectation  cf  coming  to  the  rapids  or  fall,  which 
we  "had  been  taught  to  consider  with  apprehension, 
we  concealed  two  bags  of  pemican  in  the  opposite 
island,  in  the  hope  that  they  would  be  of  future  service 
to  us.  The  Indians  were  of  a  different  opinion,  as  they 
entertained  no  expectation  of  returning  that  season, 
when  the  hidden  provisions  would  be  spoiled.  Near 
tis  werl  two  Indian  encampments  of  the  last  year. 
By  the  manner  in  which  these  people  cut  their  wood, 
it  appears  that  they  have  no  iron  tools.  The  cur- 
rent was  very  strong  dvring  the  whole  of  this  day's 
voyage  ;  and  in  the  article  of  provisions  two  swans 
Were  all  that  the  hunters  were  able  to  procure. 

Thursday  2.  The  morning  was  very  foggy  ;  but 
at  half  past  five  we  embarked  ;  it  cleared  up,  howe- 
ver, at  seven,  when  we  discovered  that  the  water,  from 
being  very  limpid  and  clear,  was  become  dark  and 
muddy.  This  alteration  must  have  proceeded  from 
the  influx  of  some  river  to  the  southward)  but  where 
these  streams  first  blended  their  waters  the  fog  had 
prevented  us  from  observing.  At  nine  we  perceived 
a  veiy  high  mountain  a-head,  which  appeared,  on  our 
nearer  approach,  to  be  rather  a  cluster  of  mountains, 
stretching  as  far  as  our  view  could  reach  to  the  south- 
ward, and  whose  tops  were  lost  in  the  clouds.  At 
noon  there  was  lightning,  thunder,  and  rain,  and  at 
one,  we  came  abreast  of  the  mountains  :  their  sum- 
mits appeared  to  be  barren  and  rocky,  but  their  de- 
clivities were  covered  with  wood  i  they  appeared  also 
to  be  sprinkled  with  white  stones,  which  glistened  in 
the  sun,  and  were  called  by  the  Indians  tnanetoe  aae- 
niahf  or  spirit  stones.  I  suspected  that  they  were  Talc, 
though  they  possessed  a  more  brilliant  whiteness  :  oa 


Norlh'West  Continent  of  America,        153 

our  return,  however,  these  appearances  were  dissolv- 
ed, as  they  were  nothing  more  than  patches  of  snow. 
Our  course  had  been  west-south-west  thirty  miles> 
and  we  proceeded  with  great  caution,  as  we  continu- 
ally expected  to  approach  uome  great  rapid  or  fall. 
This  was  such  a  prevalent  idea,  that  all  of  us  were 
occasionally  persuaded  that  we  heard  those  sounds 
which  betokened  a  fall  of  water.     Our  course  chang- 
ed  to  west  by  north,  along  the   mountains,  t\«relve 
miles,  north  by  west  twenty-one  miles,  and  at  eight 
o'clock  in  the  evening  we  went  on  shore  for  the  night 
on  the  north  side  of  the  river.     We  saw  several  en- 
campments of  the  natives,  some  of  which  had  been 
erected  in  the  present  spring,  and  others  at  some  for- 
mer period.     The  hunters  only  killed  one  swan  and  a 
beaver ;  the  latter  was  the  first  of  its  kind  which  we 
had  seen  in  this  river.    The  Indians  complained  of  the 
perseverance  with  which  we  pushed  forward,  and  that 
they  were  not  accustomed  to  such  severe  fatigue  as  it 
occasioned.  ^ 

Friday  3.  The  rain  was  continual  through  the 
night,  and  did  not  subside  till  seven  this  morning, 
when  we  embarked  and  ster?ed  north-north-west  for 
twelve  miles,  the  river  being  inclosed  by  high  moun- 
tains on  either  side.  We  had  a  strong  head-wind,  and 
the  rain  was  so  violent  as  to  compel  us  to  land  at  ten 
o'clock.  According  to  my  reckoning,  since  my  last 
observation,  we  had  run  two  hundred  and  seventeen 
miles  west,  and  forty-four  miles  north.  At  a  quarter 
past  two  the  rain  subsided,  and  we  got  again  under 
way,  our  former  course  continuing  for  five  miles. 
Here  a  river  feil  in  from  the  north,  and  in  a  short 
time  the  current  became  strong  and  rapid,  running 
with  great  rapidity  among  rocky  islands,  which  were 
the  first  that  we  had  seen  in  this  river,  and  indicated 
our  near  approach  to  rapids  and  falls.  Our  present 
course  was  north-west  by  north  ten  miles,  north-west 
three  miles.  West-north-west  twelve  miles,  and 
north-west  three  miles,  when  we  encamped  at  eight 
in  the  evening,  at  the  foot  of  an  high  hill,  on  the  north 
shore,  which  in  some  parts  rose  perpendicular  from 

M 


154  yourtwJ  of  a  Voyage  through  the, 

th^  river.  I  immediately  ascended  it,  accompanied 
by  two  men  and  some  Indians,  and  in  about  an  hour 
and  an  half,  with  very  hard  walking,  we  gained  the 
summit,  when  I  was  very  much  surprised  to  find  it 
crowned  by  an  encampment.  The  Indians  informed 
me,  that  it  is  the  custom  of  the  people  who  have  no 
arms  to  choose  these  elevated  spots  for  the  places  of 
their  residence,  as  they  can  render  them  inaccessible 
to  their  enemies,  particularly  the  Knisteneaux,  of 
whom  they  are  in  continual  dread.  The  prospect  from 
this  height  was  not  so  extensive  as  we  expected,  as  it 
was  terminated  by  a  circular  range  of  hills,  of  the 
same  elevation  as  that  on  which  we  stood.  The  inter- 
vals between  the  hills  were  covered  with  small  lakes» 
which  ^ere  inhabited  by  great  numbeis  of  swans. 
We  saw  no  trees  but  the  pine  and  the  birch,  which 
were  small  in  size  and  few  in  number. 

We  were  obliged  to  shorten  our  stay  here  from  the 
swarms  of  musquitoes  which  attacked  us  on  all  sides, 
and  were  indeed,  the  only  inhabitants  of  the  place. 
We  saw  several  encampments  of  the  natives  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  but  none  of  them  were  of  this  year's 
establishment.  Since  four  in  the  afternoon  the  cur- 
rent had  been  so  strong  that  it  was  at  length,  in  an  ac- 
tual ebullition,  and  produced  an  hissing  noise  like  a  ket- 
tle of  water  in  a  moderate  state  of  boiling.  The  wea- 
ther was  now  become  extremely  cold,  which  was  the 
more  sensibly  felt,  as  it  had  been  very  sultry  some 
time  before  and  since  we  had  been  in  the  river. 

Saturday  4.  At  five  in  the  morning  the  wind  and 
weather  having  undergone  no  alteration  from  yester- 
day, we  proceeded  north-west  by  west  twenty-two 
miles,  north-west  six  miles,  north-west  by  north  four 
miles,  and  west-north-west  five  miles :  we  then  passed 
the  mouth  of  a  small  river  from  the  north,  and  after 
doubling  a  point,  south-west  one  mile,  passed  the  in- 
fiux  of  another  river  from  the  south.  We  then  continued 
our  course  north-north-west,  with  a  mountain  a-head, 
fifteen  miles,  when  the  opening  of  two  rivers  appeared 
opposite  to  each  other :  we  then  proceeded  west  four 
miles,  aud  iiorth->west  thirteen  miles.   At  eight  in  the 


North'Jf  est  Continent  of  America,        135 

erening  we  encamped  on  an  island.  The  current  was  as 
strong  through  the  whole  of  this  day  as  it  had  been 
the  preceding  aftemoon ;  nevertheless,  a  quantity  of 
ice  appeared  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  hun- 
ters killed  a  beaver  and  a  goose,  the  former  of  which 
sunk  before  they  could  get  to  him :  beavers,  otters, 
bears,  ficc.  if  shot  dead  at  once,  remain  like  a  bladder, 
but  if  there  remains  enough  of  life  for  them  to  strug- 
gle, they  soon  fill  with  water,  and  go  to  the  bot- 
tom* 

Sunday  5.  The  sun  set  last  night  at  fifty-three 
minutes  past  nine,  by  my  watch,  and  rose  at  seven 
minutes  before  two  this  morning:  we  embarked  soon 
after,  steering  north-north-west  through  islands  for 
five  miles,  and  west  four  miles.  The-river  then  in- 
creased in  breadth,  and  the  current  began  to  slacken 
in  a  small  degree  ;  after  the  continuation  of  our  cour 
we  perceived  a  ridge  of  high  mountains  before  us,  co- 
vered with  snoWv  west-south-w^st  ten  miles,  and  at 
thre^i-quarters  past  seven  o'clock,  we  saw  several 
smoKes  on  the  north  shore,  which  we  made  every  ex~ 
ertion  to  approach.  As  we  drew  nearer,  we  disco- 
vered the  natives  running  about  in  great  apparent 
confusion  i  some  were  making  to  the  woods  and  others 
hurrying  to  their  canoes.  Our  hunters  landed  before 
us  and  addressed  the  few  that  had  not  escaped,  in  the 
Chepewyan  language,  which,  so  'great  was  their  con- 
fusion and  terror,  they  did  not  appear  to  understand. 
But  when  they  perceived  that  it  was  impossible  to 
avoid  us,  as  we  were  all  landed,  they  niade  us  signs  to 
keep  at  a  distance,  with  which  we  complied,  and  not 
only  unloaded  our  canoe,  but  ^pitched  our  tents,  before 
we  made  any  attempt  to  approach  them.  During  this 
interval,  the  English  chief  and  his  young  men  were 
employed  in  reconciling  them  to  our  arrival:  and 
when  they  had  recovered  from  their  alarm,  of  hostile 
intention,  it  appeared  that  some  of  them  perfectly 
comprehended  the  language  of  our  Indians ;  so  that 
they  were  at  length  persuaded,  though  not  without 
evident  signs  of  reluctance  and  apprehension,  to  come 
to  us.    Their  reception,  however,   soon  dissipated 


I' :- 


1S6  Joxwnal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

their  fearS)  and  they  hastened  to  call  their  fugiti](c 
companioQs  from  their  hiding  places. 

There  were  five  families,  consisting  of  twenty-five 
•r  thirty  persons,  and  of  two  different  tribes,  the  Slave 
and  Dog-rib  Indians.  We  made  them  smoke,  though 
it  was  evident  they  did  not  know  the  use  of  tobacco; 
we  likewise  supplied  them  with  grog;  but  I  am  dis- 
posed to  think,  that  they  accepted  our  civilities  rather 
from  fear  then  inclination.  We  acquired  a  more  ef- 
fectual influence  over  them  by  the  distribution  of 
kn'.ves,  beads,  awls,  rings,  gartepng,  fire-steeis,  flints, 
and  hatchets  ;  so  that  they  became  moie  familiar  even 
than  we  expected,  for  we  could  not  keep  them  out  of 
our  tents :  though  I  did  not  observe  that  they  attempt- 
ed to  purloin  any  thing. 

The  information  which  they  gave  respecting  the 
river,  had  so  much  of  the  fabulous,  that  I  shall  not 
detail  it :  it  will  be  sufficient  just  to  mention  their 
attempts  to  persuade  us,  that  it  would  require  seve- 
ral  winters  to  get  to  the  sea,  and,  that  old  age  would 
conie  upon  us  before  the  period  of  our  return:  we 
were  also  to  encounter  monsters  of  such  horrid  shapes 
and  destructive  powers  as  could  only  exist  in  their  wild 
imaginations.  They  added,  besides,  that  there  were 
two  impassable  falls  in  the  river,  the  first  of  which 
was  about  thirty  days  march  from  us. 

Though  I  placed  no  faith  in  these  strange  relations, 
they  had  a  different  effect  upon  our  Indians,  who 
were  already  tired  of  the  voyage.  It  was  their  opi- 
nion and  anxious  wish,  that  we  should  not  hesitate 
to  return.  They  said  that,  according  to  the  informa- 
tion which  they  had  received,  there  -were  very  few 
animals  in  the  country  beyond  us,  and  that  as  we  pro- 
ceeded, the  scarcity  would  increase,*^  and  we  should 
absolutely  perish  from  hunger,  if  no  accident  befel 
us.  It  v.as  with  no  small  trouble  that  they  were  con- 
vinced of  the  folly  of  these  reasonings ;  and,  by  my 
desire,  they  induced  one  of  those  Indians  to  accompa- 
ny us,  in  consideration  of  a  small  kettle,  an  axe,  a 
knife,  and  some  other  articles. 

Though  it  was  now  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 


North-West  Continent  of  Americcu        137 


the  canoe  was  ordered  to  be  re-loaded,  and  as  we 
were  ready  to  embark,  our  new  recruit  was  desired 
to  prepare  himself  for  his  departure,  which  he  would 
have  declined ;  but  as  none  of  his  friends  would  take  his 
place,  we  maybe  said,  after  the  delay  of  an  hour  to  have 
compelled  him  to  embark.  Previous  to  his  departure 
a  ceremony  took  place,  of  which  I  could  not  learn 
the  meaning  :  he  cut  oft*  a  lock  of  his  hair,  and  hav- 
ing divided  it  into  three  parts,  he  fastened  one  of 
them  to  the  hair  on  the  upper  part  of  his  wife's  head, 
blowing  on  it  three  times  with  the  utmost  violence  in 
his  power,  and  uttering  certain  words.  The  other 
two  he  fastened  with  the  same  formalities,  on  the 
heads  of  his  two  children. 

During  our  short  stay  with  these  people,  they  a- 
mused  us  with  dancing,  which  they  accompanied 
with  their  voices  ;  but  neither  their  song  or  their 
dance  possessed  much  variety.  The  men  and  women, 
formed  a  promiscuous  ring.  The  former  have  a  bone- 
dagger  or  piece  of  stick  between  the  fingers  of  the 
right-hand,  which  they  keep  extended  above  the  head, 
in  continual  motion  :  the  left  they  seldom  raise  so 
high,  but  work  it  backwards  and  forwards  in  an  ho- 
rizontal direction  ;  while  they  leap  about  and  throw 
themselves  into  various  antic  postures,  to  the  mea^^ 
sure  of  their  music,  always  bringing  their  heels  close 
to  each  other  at  every  pause.  The  iten  occasionally 
howl,  in  imitation  of  some  animal,  aiid,  he  who  con- 
tinues this  violent  exercise  for  the  longest  period,  ap- 
pears 10  be  considered  as  the  best  performer.  The 
women  suffer  their  arms  to  hang  as  without  the  pow- 
er of  motion.  They  are  a  meagre,  ugly,  ill-made 
people,  particularly  about  the  legs,  "which  are  very 
clumsy  and  covered  with  scabs.  The  latter  circum- 
stance proceeds,  probably,  from  their  habitually  roast- 
ing them  before  the  fire.  Many  of  them  appeared  to 
*—   in  a  very  unhealthy  state,  which   is  owing,  as  I 


be 


e  afternoon, 


imagine,  to  their  natural   fi^hiness.     They  are  of 
moderate  stature,  and  as  far  as  could  be  discoverci,  * 
through  the  coat  of  dirt  and  grease  that  covers  tl^^m^ 

M  2 


1 38  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

are  of  a  fairer  complexion  than  the  generality  of  Iiv- 
dians  ivho  are  the  natives  of  Nvarmer  climates* 

Some  of  them  have  their  hair  oi  a  great  length  ; 
while  others  suffer  a  long  tress  to  fall  behind,  and  the 
rest  is  cut  so  short  as  to  expose  their  ears,  but  no 
other  attention  whatever  is  paid  to  it.  The  beards  of 
some  of  the  old  men  were  long,  and  the  rest  of  them 
pulled  out  by  the  roots,  so  that  an  hair  could  not  be 
seen  on  their  chins.  The  men  have  two  double  lines, 
either  black  or  blue,  tattooed  upon  each  cheek,  from 
the  ear  to  the  nose.  The  gristle  of  the  latter  is  per- 
forated so  as  to  admit  a  goose-quill  or  a  small  piece 
of  wood  to  be  passed  through  the  orifice.  Their 
clothing  is  made  of  the  dressed  skins  of  the  rein  or 
moose-deer,  though  more  commonly  of  the  former. 
These  they  prepare  in  the  hair  for  winter,  and  make 
shirts  06  both,  which  reach  to  the  middle  of  their 
thighs.  Some  of  them  are  decorated  with  an  embroi- 
dery of  very  neat  workmanship  with  porcupine  quills 
and  the  hair  of  the  moose,  coloured  red,  black,  yel- 
low, and  white.  Their  upper  garments  are  suffici- 
ently large  to  cover  the  whole  body,  with  a  fringe 
round  the  bottom,  and  are  used  both  sleeping  and  a- 
wake.  Their  leggins  come  half  way  up  the  thigh, 
and  are  sewed  to  their  shoes  :  they  are  embroidered 
round  the  ancle,  and  upon  every  seam.  The  dress  of 
the  women  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  men.  The  for- 
mer have  no  covering  on  their  private  parts,  except  a 
tassel  of  leather  which  dangles  from  a  small  cord,  as 
it  appears,  "o  keep  off  the  flies,  which  would  other- 
wise be  very  troublesome.  Whether  circumcision 
be  practised  among  them,  I  cannot  pretend  to  say, 
but  the  appearance  of  it  was  general  among  those 
whom  I  saw* 

Their  ornaments  consist  of  gorgets,  bracelets  for 
the  arms  and  wrists,  made  of  wood,  horn,  or  bone, 
belts,  garters,  and  a  kind  of  baiid  to  go  round  the 
head,  composed  of  strips  of  leather  of  one  inch  and 
an  half  broad,  embroidered  with  porcupine  quills,  and 
stuck  round  with  the  claws  of  bears  or  wild  fowl  in- 
verted} to  ir^hich   are  suspended  %  few  short  thoti<^s 


NortJi-West  Continent  of  America,        139 

of  the  skin  of  an  animal  that  resembles  the  ermine, 
in  the  form  of  a  tassel.  Their  cinctures  and  garters 
are  formed  of  porcupine  quills  woven  with  sinews*  in 
a  style  of  peculiar  skill  and  neatness :  they  have 
others  of  different  materials,  and  more  ordinary  work- 
manship ;  and  to  both  they  attach  a  long  fringe  of 
strings  of  leather,  worked  round  with  hair  of  various 
colours.  Their  mittehs  are  also  suspended  from  the 
neck  in  a  position  convenient  for  th**  reception  of  tt  i 
hands. 

Their  lodges  are  of  a  very  simj  le  structure  :  a  few 
poles  supported  by  a  fork,    and  fofming  a  semicircle 
at  the  bottom,  with  some  branches  or  a  piece  of  bark 
as  a  covering,  constitutes  the  whole  of  their   native 
architecture.     They  build  two  of  these  huts  facing 
each  other,  and  make  the  fire  between  them.     The 
furniture  harmonises  with  the  buildings :    they  have 
a  few  dishes  of  wood,  bafk,  or  horn ;  the  vessels  in 
which  they  cook  their  victuals,  are  in  the  shape  of  a 
gourd,  narrow  at  the  top  and  wide  at  the    bottom, 
and  of  watape*,  fabricated  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
hold  water,  which  is  made  to  boil  by  putting  a  suc^* 
cession  of  red-hot  stones  into  it.    These  vessels  con- 
tain from  two  to  six  gallons.    They  have  a  number 
of  small  leather  bags  to  hold  their  embroidered  work,, 
lines,  and  ne^s.     They  always  keep  a  large  quantity 
of  the  fibres  of  willow  bark,  whiph  they  work  into, 
thi'ead  on  their  thighs.     Their  nets  are  from  three 
to  forty  fathoms  in  length,  and  from  thirteen  to  thir- 
ty-six meshes  in  depth.     The  short,  deep  ones  they 
set  in  the  eddy  current  of  rivers,  and  the  long  oi)e& 
in  the  lakes.  They  likewise  make  lines  of  the  sinews 
of  the  rein  deer,  and  manufacture  their  hooks   from 
wood,  horn,  or  bone.     Their  arms  and  weapons  for 
hunting,  are  bows  and  arrows,  spears,  daggers,  and 
pogamagans,  or  clubs.     The  bows  are  about  five  otf 
six  feet  in  length,  and  the  strings  are  of  sinews  or  raw 
skins.     The  arrows  are  two  feet  and  an  half  long,  in- 

*  Watape  is  the  name  given  to  tlie  divided  roots  of  the  spruce-fir,  wluch  the  o^- 
tives  weave  into  a  degree  of  compactness  that  renders  it  capable  of  copt^ining  « 
Huii.  The  d'D'erent  part<  of  die  iiark  cauoes  are  ubo  se\i>edt<lisUi«r»'itbUii& 
kind  of  filament.  v  '^      ^"F^  --" ''  ■  - 


140  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

eluding  the  barb,  which  is  variously  formed  of  bone, 
horn,  flint,  iron,  or  copper,  and  are  winged  with  three 
feathers.     The  pole  of  the  spears  is  about  six  feet  in 
length,  and  pointed  with  a  barbed  bone  often  inches. 
With  this  weapon  they  strike  the  rein-deer  in  the  wa- 
ter.    The  daggers  arc  flat  and  sharp-pointed,  about 
twelve  inches  long,  and  made  of  horn  or  bone*     The 
pogamagan  is  made  of  the  horn  of  the  rein-deer,  the 
branches  being  all  cut  off,  except  that  which  forms 
the  extremity.     This  instrument  is  about  two  feet  in 
length,  and  is  employed  to  dispatch  their  enemies  in 
battle,  and  such  animals  as  they  catch  in  snares  placed 
for  that  purpose."    These  are  about  three  fathom  long, 
and  are  made  of  the  green  skin  of  the  rein  or  moose- 
deer,  but  in  such  small  strips,  that  it  requires  fromi  ten 
to  thirty  strands  to  make  this  cord,  which  is  not  thicker 
than  apod-line  ;  and  strong  enough  to  resist  any  ani- 
mal that  can  be  entangled  in  it.     Snares  or  nooses  are 
also  made  of  sinews  to  take  lesser  animals^  such  as 
hares  and  white  partridges,  which  are  very  numerous. 
Their   axes  are  manufactured  of  a  piece  of  brown  or 
grey  stone  from  six  to  eight  inches  long,  and  two  in- 
ches thick.     The  inside  is  flat,  and  the  outside  round 
and  tapering  to  an  edge,  an  inch  wide.     They  are 
fastened  by  the  middle  with  the  flat  side  inwards  to  an 
handle  two  feet  long,  with  a  cord  of  green  skin.     This 
is  the  tool  with  which  they  split  their  wood,  and  we 
believe,  the  only  one  of  its  kind  among  them.     They 
kindle  fire,  by  striking  together  a  piece  of  white  or 
yellow  pyrites  and  a  flint  stone,  over  a  piece  of  touch- 
wood.    They  are  universally  provided  with  a  small 
bag  containing  these  materials,  so  that  they  are  in  a 
continual  state  of  preparation  to  produce  fire.     From 
the  adjoining  tribes,  the  Red-Knives  and  Chepewyans, 
they  procure,  in  barter  for  martin  skins  and  a  few 
beaver,  small  pieces  of  iron,  of  which  they  manufac- 
ture knives,  by  j&xing  them  at  the  end  of  a  short  stick, 
and  with  them  and  the   beaver's  teeth,  they  finish  all 
their  work.     They  keep  them  in  a  sheath   hanging  to 
tlieir  neck,  which  also  contains  their  awls  both  of  iron 
and  horn. 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        141 

Their  canoes  are  small,  pointed  at  both  ends,  flat- 
bottomed  and  covered  in  the  fore  part.  They  are 
made  of  the  bark  of  the  birch-tree  and  fir-wood,  but 
of  so  slight  a  construction,  that  the  man  whom  one  of 
these  light  vessels  bears  on  the  water,  can,  in  return, 
carry  it  over  land  without  any  difficulty.  It  is  very 
seldom  that  more  than  one  person  embarks  in  them, 
nor  are  they  capable  of  receiving  more  than  two. 
The  paddles  are  six  feet  long,  one  half  of  which  is 
occupied  by  a  blade,  of  about  eight  inches  wide. 
These  people  informed  us,  that  we  had  passed  large 
bodies  of  In  lians  who  inhabit  the  mountains  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  embarked,  and 
our  Indian  acquaintance  promised  to  remain  on  the 
bank  of  the  river  till  the  fall,  incase  we  should  return. 
Our  course  was  west-south-west,  and  we  soon  passed 
the  Great  Bear  Lake  River,  which  is  of  a  considerable 
depth,  and  an  hundred  yards  wide  :  Its  water  is  clear, 
and  has  the  greenish  hue  of  the  sea.  We  had  not 
proceeded  more  than  six  miles  when  we  were  obliged 
to  land  for  the  night,  in  consequence  of  an  heavy  gust 
of  wind,  accompanied  with  rain.  We  encamped  be- 
neath a  rocky  hill,  on  the  top  of  which,  according  to 
the  information  of  our  guide,  it  blew  a  storm  every 
day  throughout  the  year.  He  found  himself  very 
uncomfortable  in  his  new  situation,  and  pretended 
that  he  was  very  ill,  in  order  that  he  might  be  p-^r- 
mitted  to  return  to  his  relations.  To  prevent  his  es- 
cape, it  became  necessary  to  keep  a  strict  watch  over 
.  him  during  the  night. 

Monday^  6.  At  three  o'clock,  in  a  very  raw  and 
cloudy  morning,  we  embarked,  and  steered  west-south- 
west four  miles,  west  four  miles,  west-north-west  five 
miles,  west  eight  miles,  west  by  south  sixteen  miles, 
west  twenty-seven  miles,  south-west  nine  miles,  then 
west  six  miles,  and  encamped  at  half  past  seven. 
We  passed  through  numerous  islands,  and  had  the 
ridge  of  snowy  moi^ntains  always  in  sight.  Our  con- 
ductor in'brmed  us  that  great  numbers  of  bears,  and 
small    white  buffaloes,    frequent   thpse    mountains) 


'^ill 


143  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

which  are  also  inhabited  by  Indians.  We  encamp, 
•d  in  a  similar  situation  to  that  of  the  preceding  even- 
ing beneath  another  high,  rocky  hill,  which  I  attempt- 
ed  to  ascend,  in  company  with  one  of  the  hunters, 
but  before  we  had  got  half  way  to  the  summit,  we 
were  almost  suffocated  by  clouds  of  musquitoes,  and 
were  obliged  to  return.  I  observed,  however,  that  the 
mountains  terminated  here,  and  that  a  river  flowed 
fi'om  the  westward:  I  also  discovered  a  strong  rip- 
ling  current,  or  rapid)  which  ran  close  under  a  steep 
precipice  of  the  hill. 

Tuesday  7,  We  embarked  at  four  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  crossed  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  in 
consequence  of  the  rapid  ;  but  we  might  have  spared 
ourselves  this  trouble,  as  there  would  have  been  no 
danger,  in  continuing  our  course,  without  any  circuit- 
ous deviation  whatever.  This  circumstance  con- 
vinced us  of  the  erroneous  account  given  by  the  na- 
tives of  the  great  and  approaching  dangers  of  our  na- 
vigation, as  this  rapid  was  stated  to  be  one  of  them. 
Our  course  was  now  north-north-west  three  miles, 
west-north-west  four  miles,  north-west  ten  miles, 
north  two  miles,  when  we  came  to  a  river  that  flowed 
from  t|ie  eastward.  Here  we  landed  at  an  encamp- 
ment of  four  fires,  all  the  inhabitants  of  which  ran 
off  with  the  utmost  speed,  except  an  old  man  and  an 
old  woman.  Our  guide  called  aloud  to  the  fugitives, 
and  entreated  them  to  stay,  but  without  efl'ect :  the 
old  man,  however,  did  not  hesitate  to  approach  us, 
and  represented  himself  as  too  far  advanced  in  life, 
and  too  indifl'erent  about  the  short  time  he  had  to  re- 
main in  the  world,  to  be  very  anxious  about  escaping 
from  any  danger  that  threatened  him ;  at  the  same 
time  he  pulled  his  grey  hairs  from  his  head  by  hand- 
fulls  to  distribute  among  us,  and  implored  our  favor 
for  himself  and  his  relations.  Our  guide,  however, 
at  length  removed  his  fears,  and  persuaded  him  to 
recal  the  fui^^itives,  who  consisted  of  eighteen  peo- 
ple ;  whom  i  reconciled  to  me  on  their  return  with 
presents  of  beeds,  l^nives,  awls,  &c.  with  which  they 
appeared  to    be    greatly   delighted.     They  diffei'ca 


North-West  Continent  cf  America, 


lil 


in  no  respect  from  those  whom  we  had  already  seen } 
nor  were  they  deficient  in  hospitable  attentions  ;  they 
provided  us  with  fish,  which  was  very  v/ell  boitedi 
and  cheerfully  accepted  by  us.  Our  ^uide  still  sick- 
ened after  his  hornet  and  was  so  anxious  to  return 
tJiither,  that  we  were  under  the  ncicessity  of  forcing 
him  to  embark. 

These  people  informed  us  that  we  were  close  to 
another  great  rapid,  and  that  there  wtre  several 
lodges  of  their  relations  in  its  vicinity.  FourcanoeS) 
with  a  man  in  each,  followed  us,  to  point  out  to  us  the 
particular  channels  we  should  follow  for  the  secure 
passage  of  the  rapid.  They  also  abounded  in  dis- 
couraging stories  concerning  the  dangers  and  difiicul* 
ties  which  we  were  to  encounter. 

From  hence  our  course  was  north-north-ea  two 
miles,  when  the  river  appeared  to  be  incloseu,  as  it 
were,  with  lofty,  perpendicular,  white  rocks,  which 
did  not  afford  us  a  very  agreeable  prospect.  We 
now  went  on  shore  in  order  to  examine  the  rapid,  but 
did  not  perceive  any  signs  of  it,  though  the  Indians 
still  continued  to  magnify  its  dangers ;  however,  as 
they  ventured  down  it,  in  their  small  canoes,  our  ap- 
prehensions were,  consequently,  removed,  and  we 
followed  them  at  some  distance,  but  did  not  find  any 
increase  in  the  rapidity  of  the  current ;  at  length  the 
Indians  informed  us  that  we  should  find  no  other  ra- 
pid but  that  which  was  now  bearing  us  along.  The 
river  at  this  place  is  not  above  three  hundred  yards 
in  breadth,  but  on  sounding  I  found  fifty  fathoms  wa- 
ter. At  the  two  rivulets  that  offer  their  tributary 
streams  from  either  side,  we  found  six  families,  con- 
sisting of  about  thirty-five  persons,  who  gave  us  an 
ample  quantity  of  excellent  fish,  which,  were,  how- 
ever, confined  to  white  fish,  the  poisson  inconnu^  and 
another  of  a  round  form  and  greenish  color,  which  was 
about  fourteen  inches  in  length.  We  gratified  them 
with  a  few  presents,  and  continued  our  voyage.  The 
men,  however,  followed  us  in  fifteen  canoes. 

This  narrow  channel  is  three  miles  long,  and  its 
course  north-northreast.    We  then  steered  north  th  ree 


144  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

mil^s,  and  landed  at  an  encampment  of  three  or  more 
families,  containing  twenty-two  persons,  which  was  situ- 
ated on  the  bank  of  a  river,  of  a  considerable  appearanpe, 
which  came  from  the  eastward.  We  obtained  hares 
and  partridges  from  these  people,  aiid  presented  in 
return  such  articles  as  greatly  delighled  thtm.  They 
very  much  regretted  that  they  had  no  goods  or  mer- 
chandizes to  exchange  with  us,  as  they  had  left  them  at 
a  lake,  from  whence  the  river  issued,  and  in  whose 
vicinity  some  of  their  people  were  employed  in  sett- 
ing snares  for  rein-deer-  They  engaged  to  go  for 
their  articles  of  trade,  and  would  wait  our  return, 
which  we  assured  thrm  would  be  within  two  months. 
There  was  a  yrouth  among  them  in  the  capacity  of  a 
slave,  whom  our  Indians  understood  much  better  than 
any  dt  the  natives  of  this  country,  whom  they  had 
yet  seen :  he  was  invited  to  accompany  us,  but  took 
the  first  opportunity  to  conceal  himself,  and  we  saw 
him  no  more« 

We  now  steered  west  five  miles,  when  we  again 
landed,  and  found  two  familes,  containing  seven  peo- 
ple, but  had  reason  to  believe  that  there  were  others 
hidden  in  the  woods.  We  received  from  them  two 
dozen  of  hares,  and  they  were  about  to  boil  two 
more,  which  they  also  gave  us.  We  were  not  un- 
grateful for  their  kindness,  and  left  them.  Our  course 
was  now  north-west  four  miles,  and  at  nine  we  land- 
ed and  pitched  our  tents,  when  one  of  our  people 
killed  a  grey  crane.  Our  conductor  renewed  his 
complaints,  not,  as  he  assured  us,  from  any  apprehen- 
sion of  our  ill-treatment,  but  the  Esquiinaux,  whom 
he  represented  as  a  very  wicked  and  malignant  peo- 
ple, who  would  put  us  all  to  death.  He  added,  also, 
that  it  was  but  two  summers  since  a  large  party  of 
them  came  up  this  river,  and  killed  many  of  his  re- 
lations. Two  Indians  followed  us  from  the  last  lodges. 

IVednesday  8.  At  half  past  two  in  the  morning  we 
embarked,  and  steered  a  westerly  course,  and  soon 
after  put  ashore  at  two  lodges  of  nine  Indians.  '  We 
made  them  a  few  trifling  presents,  but  without  dis- 
embarking, and  had  proceeded  but  a  small  distance 


North-West  Continent  cf  America.       145 

from  thencC)  when  we  observed  several  smokes  be- 
neath an  hill,  on  the  north  shore»  and  on  our  i^proa^cli 
we  perceived  the  natives  climbing  the  ascent  to  gain 
the  woods.  The  Indians,  however,  in  the  two  small 
canoes  which  were  a-head  of  us,  having  assured  them 
of  our  friendly  intentions,  they  returned  to  their  firesy 
and  we  disembarked.  Several  of  them  were  clad  in 
hare-skins,  but  in  every  other  circumstance  they  re- 
sembled those  whom  we  had  already  seen*  We 
were,  however,  informed  that  they  were  of  a  dif- 
ferent tribe,  called  the  Hare  Indians,  as  hares  and 
fish  are  their  principal  support,  from  the  scarcity  of 
rein-deer  and  beaver,  which  are  the  only  animals  of 
the  larger  kind  that  frequent  this  part  of  the  country. 
They  were  twenty-five  in  number,  and  among  them 
was  a  woman,  afiHicted  with  anabcessin  the  belly,  and 
reduced,  in  consequence,  to  a  mere  skeleton  i  at  the 
same  time,  several  old  women  were  singing  and 
howling  around  her ;  but  whether  these  noises  were 
to  operate  as  a  charm  for  her  cure,  or  merely  to 
amuse  and  console  her,  I  do  not  pretend  to  deter- 
mine. A  small  quantity  of  our  usual  presents  were 
receivf  d  by  them  with  the  greatest  satisfaction. 

Here  we  made  an  exchange  of  our  guide,  who  had 
become  so  trouble^me,  that  we  were  obliged  to  watch 
him  night  and  day,  except  when  he  was  upon  the  wa- 
ter. The  man,  however,  who  had  agreed  tq  go  in  his 
place,  soon  repented  of  his  engagement^  and  endea- 
vored to  persuade  us  that  some  of  his  relations  fur- 
ther down  the  river,  would  readily  accompany  us,  and 
were  much  better  acquainted  with  the  river  than  him- 
self. But,  as  he  had  informed  us  ten  minutes  before 
that  we  should  see  no  more  of  bis  tribe,  we  paid  very 
littre  attention  to  his  remonstrances,  and  compelled 
him  to  embark. 

In  about  three  hours  a  man  overtook  us  in  a  small 
canoe,  and  we  suspected  that  his  object  was  to  facili- 
tate, in  some  way  or  other,  the  escape  of  our  con- 
ductor. About  twelve  we  also  observed  an  Indian 
walking  along  the  north-east  shore,  when  the  small 
canoes  paddled  towards  him.    We  accordingly  fo\- 

N 


146  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

lowed,  and  found  three  men,  three  women,  and  tw« 
children,  who  had  been  on  an  hunting  expedition. 
They  had  some  flesh  of  the  rein-deer,  which  they  of- 
fered to  us,  but  it  was  so  rotten,  as  well  as  offensive  to 
the  smell,  that  we  excused  ourselves  from  accepting  it. 
They  had  also  their  wonderful  stories  of  danger  and 
terror,  as  well  as  their  countrymen,  whom  we  had  al- 
ready seen  ;  and  we  were  now  informed,  that  behind 
the  opposite  island  there  was  a  Manitoe  or  spirit,  in 
the  river,  which  swallowed  every  person  that  approach- 
ed it.  As  it  would  have  employed  half  a  day  to  have 
indulged  our  curiosity  in  proceeding  to  examine 
this  phsenomenon,  we  did  not  deviate  from  our 
course,  but  left  these  people  with  the  usual  presents, 
and  proceeded  on  our  voyage.  Our  course  and  dis- 
tance this  day  were  west  tv/enty-eight  miles,  west- 
north-west  twenty-three  miles,  west- south-west  six 
miles,  west  by  north  Ave  miles,  south-west  four  miles, 
and  encamped  at  eight  o'clock.  A  fog  prevailed  the 
greater  part  of  the  day,  with  frequent  showei*s  of 
small  rain. 


CHAPTER  IV 


'i^it 


H^e  new  guide  makes  his  escape.  Compel  another  to  supply  his  place.  Land  4t 
an  eucami<ment  of  another  tribe  of  Indians.  Account  of  tlieir  manners,  dress, 
.weapons,  fcc.  Traflic  with  them.  Description  of  a  beautiful  fish.  Engage 
anotner  guide.  His  curious  behavior.  Kill  a  fox  and  ground-hog.  Land  at  an 
encampment  of  a  tribe  tailed  the  Dugutliee  Dinees,  or  GLuarrclieis.  Saw  flax 
growing  wild.  The  varying  character  of  the  river  and  its  bunks.  Distant  moun- 
tains. Perplexity  from  the  numerous  channels  of  tlie  river.  Determined  to  pro- 
ceed. Land  where  tl\er«  had  been  an  encampment  of  the  Esquimaux.  Saw 
large  flocks  of  wild  fowl.  View  tlie  sun  at  uminight.  Desaipiiun  of  a  plac^ 
lately  deserted  by  the  Indians.  Houses  of  the  natives  described.  Frequent 
showers.  Saw- a  black  fox.  The  discontents  of  our  hunters  renewed,  and  paci- 
fied. Face  of  the  country.  Land  at  a  spot  lately  inhabited.  Peculiar  circum- 
stances of  it.  Arrive  ut  die  entrance  of  Uie  lake.  Proceed  to  an  island.  Suiue 
account  of  it. 

TAmi^s.} Thunder  and  rain  prevailed  during  the 
night,  and  in  the  course  of  it,  our  guide  deserted  ; 
we  therefore  compelled  another  of  these  people,  very 
much  against  his  will,  to  supply  the  place  x)f  his  fu- 
gitive countryman.  We  also  took  away  the  paddles 
of  vne  of  them,  who  remained  behind,  that  he  might 


North-West  Continent  of  America,         14/ 

not  follow  us  on  any  scheme  of  promoting  the  escape 
of  his  companion,  who  was  not  easily  pacified.  At 
length)  however,  we  succeeded  in  the  act  of  concili- 
ation, and  half  past  three  quitted  our  station*  In  a 
short  time  we  saw  a  smoke  on  the  east  shore,  and  di- 
rected our  course  towards  it.  Our  new  guide  began 
immediately  to  call  to  the  people  that  belonged  to  it 
in  a  particular  manner,  which  we  did  not  compre- 
hend. He  informed  us  that  they  were  not  of  his 
tribe,  but  were  a  very  wicked,  malignant  people,  who 
would  beat  us  cruelly,  pull  our  hair  with  great  vio- 
lence from  our  heads,  and  mal-treat  us  in  various  other 
ways. 

The  men  waited  our  arrival,  but  the  women  and 
children  took  to  the  woods.  There  were  but  four  of 
these  people,  and  previous  to  our  landing,  they  all 
harangued  us  at  the  same  moment,  and  apparently 
with  violent  anger  and  resentment.  Our  hunters  did 
not  understand  them,  but  no  sooner  had  our  guide  adr 
dressed  them,  than  they  were  appeased.  I  presented 
them  with  beads,  awls,  &c.  and  when  the  wcftnen  and 
children  returned  from  the  woods,  they  wei*e  gratified 
with  similar  articles.  There  were  fifteen  of  them  > 
and  of  a  more  pleasing  appearance  than  any  which 
we  had  hitherto  seen,  as  they  were  healthy,  full 
of  flesh,  and  clean  in  their  persons.  Their  language 
was  somewhat  different,  but  I  believe  chiefly  in  the 
accent,  for  they  and  our  guide  conversed  intelligibly 
with  each  other  ;  and  the  English  chief  clearly  com- 
prehended one  of  them,  though  he  was  not  himself 
understood. 

Their  arms  and  utensils  differ  but  little  from  those 
which  have  been  described  in  a  former  chapter.  The 
only  iron  they  have  is  in  small  pieces,  which  serve  them 
for  knives.  They  obtain  this  metal  from  the  Esqui- 
maux Indians.  Their  arrows  are  made  of  very 
light  wood,  and  are  winged  with  two  feathers :  their 
bows  differed  from  any  which  we  had  seen,  and  we 
understood  that  they  were  furnished  by  the  Esqui- 
maux, who  are  their  neighbors  :  they  consist  of  two 
pieces,  with  a  very  strong  cord  of  sinews  along  the 


■ 


14$  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  th§ 

back)'  which  is  tied  in  seTcral  places,  to  preserve  its 
shape :  when  this  cord  becomes  wet,  it  requires  a 
strong  bow-string,  and  a  powerful  arm  to  draw  it* 
The  vessel  in  which  they  prepared  their  food,  is  made 
of  a  thin  frame  of  wood,  and  of  an  oblong  shape ;  the 
bottom  is  fixed  in  a  groove,  in  the  same  manner  as  a 
cask.  Their  shirts  are  not  cut  square  at  the  bottom, 
but  taper  to  a  point,  from  the  belt  downwards  as  low 
as  the  knee,  both  before  and  beh'^^d,  with  a  border, 
embellished  with  a  short  fringe.  *>  \ey  use  also  ano- 
ther fringe,  similar  to  that  which  has  been  already 
described,  with  the  addition  of  the  stone  of  a  grey  fari- 
naceous  berry,  of  the  size  and  shape  of  a  large  barley- 
corn ;  it  is  a  of  brown  color,  and  fluted,  and  being  bored, 
is  ran  on  each  string  of  the  fringe  ;  with  this  they 
decorattt  their  shirts,  by  sewing  it  in  a  semicircle  on 
the  breast  and  back,  and  crossing  over  both  shoul- 
ders ;  the  sleeves  are  wide  and  short,  but  the  mittens 
supply  their  deficiency,  as  they  are  long  enough  to 
reach  over  a  part  of  the  sleeve,  and  are  commodiously 
suspended  by  a  cord  from  the  neck.  If  their  leggins 
were  made  with  waistbands,  they  might,  with  great 
propriety,  be  denominated  trowsers :  they  fasten 
them  with  a  cord  round  the  middle,  so  that  they  ap- 
pear to  have  a  sense  of  decency  which  their  neigh- 
bours cannot  boast.  Their  shoes  are  sewed  to  their 
leggins,  and  decorated  on  every  seam.  One  of  the 
men  was  clad  in  a  shirt  made  of  the  skins  of  the  musk- 
rat.  The  dress  of  the  women  is  the  same  as  that  of 
the  men,  except  in  their  shirts,  which  are  longer, 
and  without  the  finishing  of  a  fringe  on  their  breasts. 
Their  peculiar  mode  of  tying  the  hair  is  as  follows  : — 
that  which  grows  on  the  temples,  or  the  fore  part  of 
the  skull,  is  formed  into  two  queues,  hanging  down 
before  tlie  ears  ;  that  of  the  scalp  or  crown  is  fashi- 
^oned  in  the  same  manner  to  the  back  of  the  neck, 
and  is  then  tied  with  the  rest  of  the  hair,  at  some  dh- 
tance  from  the  head.  A  thin  cord  is  employed  for 
these  purposes,  and  very  neatly  worked  with  hair,  ar- 
t'  Icially  colored.    The  women,  and,  indee4»  some  of 


'fy) 


North'JVest  Continent  of  America*        149 


the  men,  let  their  hair  hang  loose  on  their  shoulders, 
whether  it  be  long  or  short. 

We  purchased  a  couple  of  very  large  moose-skins 
from  them,  which  were  very  well  dressed  ;  indeed, 
we  did  not  suppose  that  there  were  any  of  those  ani- 
mals in  the  country  ;  and  it  appears  from  the  accounts 
of  the  natives  themselves,  that  they  are  very  scarce.  As 
for  the  beaver,  the  existence  of  Luch  a  creature  does 
not  seem  to  be  known  by  them.  Our  people  bought 
shirts  of  them,  and  many  curious  articles,  &c.  They 
presented  us  with  a  most  delicious  fish,  which  was 
less  thai),  an  herring,  and  very  beautifully  spotted 
with  black  and  yellow :  its  dorsal  fiii  reached  from  the 
head  to  the  tail ;  in  its  expanded  state  takes  a  trian- 
gular foi  m,  and  is  variegated  with  the  colors  that  en- 
liven the  scales  :  the  head  is  very  small,  and  the 
mouth  is  armed  with  sharp-pointed  teeth. 

We  prevailed  on  the  native,  whose  language  wass 
most  intelligible,  to  accompany  us.  He  informed  us 
that  we  should  sleep  ten  nights  more  before  we  arriv- 
ed at  the  sea  ;  that  severalof  his  relations  resided  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  this  part  of  the  river,  that  in* 
three  nights  we  sho.dld  meet  with  the  Esquimaux, 
with  whom  they  had  formerly  made  war,  but  were 
now  in  a  state  of  peace  and  amity.  He  mentioned 
the  last  Indians  whom  we  had  seen  in  terms  of  great 
derision;  describing  them  as  being  no  better  thaa 
old  women,  and  us  abominable  liars  ;  which  coincided 
with  the  notion  we  already  entertained  of  them. 

As  we  pushed  off,  some  of  my  men  discharged 
their  fowliiig  pieces,  that  were  only  loaded  with  pow- 
der, at  the  report  of  which  the  Indians  were  very 
much  alarmed,  as  they  had  not  before  heard  the  dis- 
charge of  fire  arms.  This  circumstance  had  such 
an  effect  upon  our  guide,  that  we  had  reason  to  ap- 
prehend he  would  not  fulfil  his  promise.  When, 
however,  he  was  informed  that  the  noise  which  he 
had  heard  was  a  signal  of  friendship,  he  was  per- 
suaded to  embark  in  his  own  small  canoe,  though  he 
had.  been  offered  a  seat  in  ours, 
.    Two  of  his  companions,  whom  he  represented  as 

N2  ■ 


^50         ymmalofaV&ifage  through  the 

his  brothers,  followed  us  in  their  canoes ;  and  they? 
amusefl  us  not  only  with  their  native  songs,  but  with 
others,  in  imitation  of  the  Esquimaux  $  and  our  new 
guide  was  so  enlivened  by  them,  that  the  antics  he 
performed,  in  keeping  time  to  the  singing,  alarmed 
us  with  continual  apprehension  that  his  b  oat  must 
upset :  but  he  was  not  long  content  with  his  confined 
situation,  and  paddling  up  along-side  our  canoe,  re- 
quested us  to  receive  him  in  it,  though  but  a  short 
time  before  he  had  resolutely  refused  to  accept  our 
invitation.  No  sooner  had  he  entered  our  canoe,  than 
he  began  to  perform  an  Esquimaux  dance,  to  our 
no  small  alarm.  He  was,  however,  soon  prevtuled  up- 
on t»  be  more  tranquil ;  when  he  began  to  display  va- 
rious indecencies,  according  to  the  customs  of  the 
Esquimaux,  of  which  he  boasted  an  intimate  acquaint- 
ance. 9n  our  putting  to  shore,  in  order  to  leave  his 
canoe,  he  informed  us  that  on  the  opposite  hill  the 
Esquimaux,  three  winters  before,  killed  his  grandfa- 
ther. We  saw  a  fox,  and  a  ground-hog  on  the  hill,  the 
latter  of  which  the  brother  of  our  guide  shot  with  his 
Jjow  and  arrow. 

About  four  in  the  afternoon  we  perceived  a  smoke 
on  the  wesit  shore,  when  we  traversed  and  landed. 
The  natives  made  a  most  terrible  uproar,  talking  with 
great  vociferation,  and  running  about  as  if  they  were 
deprived  of  their  senses,  while  the  greater  part  of  the 
Women,  with  the  children,  fled  away.  Perceiving  the 
disorder  which  our  appearance  occasioned  among  these 
people,  we  had  waited  some  time  before  we  quitted 
the  canoe ;  and  I  have  no  doubt,  if  we  had  been  with- 
out people  to  introduce  us,  that  they  would  have  at- 
tempted some  violence  against  us  ;  for  when  the  Indi- 
ans send  away  their  women  and  children,  it  is  always 
with  an  hostile  design.  At  length  we  pacified  them 
with  the  usual  presents,  but  they  preferred  beads  to 
any  of  the  articles  that  1  offered  them  ;  particularly 
such  as  were  of  a  blue  colour ;  and  one  of  them  even 
requested  to  exchange  a  knife  which  I  had  given  him 
for  a  small  quantity  of  those  ornamental  baubles.  I 
purchased  of  them  two  shirts  for  my  hunters ;  and  at 


^orth-JVeat  Continent  of  America.        If  I 

the  same  time  they  presented  me  with  some  arrows, 
and  dried  fish.  This  party  consisted  of^^ve  families, 
t  >  the  amount,  as  I  suppose,  of  forty  men,  women, 
and  children ;  but  I  did  not  see  them  all,  as  seTeral 
were  afraid  to  venture  from  their  hiding-places.  They 
are  called  Deguthee.Dinee*^  or  the  Quarreliera, 

Our  guide,  like  his  predecessors,  now  manifested 
his  wish  to  leave  us,  and  entertained  similar  appre* 
hensions  that  we  should  not  return  by  this  passage. 
He  had  his  alarms  also  respecting  the  Esquimaux, 
who  might  kill  us,  and  take  away  the  women.  Our 
Indians,  however,  assured  him  that  we  had  no  fears 
of  any  kind,  and  that  he  need  not  be  alarmed  for  him* 
self.  They  also  convinced  him  that  we  should  return 
by  the  way  we  were  going,  so  that  he  consented  to  re- 
embark  without  giving  us  any  further  trouble ;  and 
eight  small  canoes  followed  us.  Our  courses  this  day 
were  south-west  by  west  six  miles,  south-west  by 
south  thirty  miles,  south-west  three  miles,  west  by 
south  twelve  miles,  west  by  north  two  miles,  and  we 
enca  iped  at  eight  in  the  evening  on  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  river.    . 

The  Indians  whom  I  found  here,  informed  me,  that 
from  the  place  where  I  this  morning  met  the  first  of 
their  tribe,  the  distance  over  land,  on  the  east  side,  to 
the  sea,  was  not  long ',  and  that  from  hence,  by  pro^ 
ceeding  to  the  westward,  it  was  still  shorter.  They 
also  represented  the  land  on  both  sides  as  projecting 
to  a  pomt.  These  people  do  not  appear  to  harbour 
any  thievish  dispositions  ;  at  least  we  didiiot  perceive 
that  they  took,  or  wanted  to  take,  any  thing  from  us 
by  stealth  or  artifice.  They  enjoyed  the  amusements 
of  dancing  and  jumping  in  common  with  those  we  had 
already  seen ;  and,  indeed,  these  exercises  seem  to  be 
their  favourite  diversions.  About  mid-day  the  wea- 
ther was  sultry,  but  in  the  afternoon  it  became  cold. 
There  was  a  large  quantity  of  wild  flax,  the  growth  of 
the  last  year,  laying  on  the  ground,  and  the  new  plants 
were  sprouting  up  through  it.  This  circumstance  I 
did  not  observe  in  any  other  part. 

Friday  10.    At  four  in  the  morning  we  embarkedp 


.1S2  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

at  a  small  distance  from  the  place  of  our  encamp- 
ment ;  the  river  which  here  becomes  narrower)  flows 
between  high  rocks  ;  and  a  meandering*  course  took  us 
north'Wcst  four  miles.  At  this  spot  the  banks  be- 
came low;  indeed,  from  the  first  rapid,  the  country 
does  not  wear  a  mountainous  appearance ;  but  the 
banks  of  the  river  are  generally  lofty,  in  some  places 
perfectly  naked,  and  in  ofehera  well  covered  with 
small  trees,  such  as  the  fir  and  the  birch.  We  con- 
tinued our  last  course  for  two  miles,  with  mountains 
before  us,  whose  tops  were  covered  with  snow. 

The  land  is  low  on  both  sides,  of  the  river,  except 
these  mountains,  whose  base  is  distant  about  ten 
miles  :  here  the  r"  ver  widens,  and  runs  through  va- 
rious channels,  fo^^med  by  islands,  some  of  which 
are  without  a  tree,  and  little  more  than  banks  of  mud 
and  s^d ;  while  others  are  covered  witlv  a  kind  of 
spruce  fir,  and  trees  of  a  larger  size  than  we  had  seen 
for  the  last  ten  days.  Their  banks,  which  are  about 
six  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  display  a  face 
of  solid  ice,  intermixed  with  veins  of  black  earth,  and 
as  the  heat  of  the  sun  melts  the  ice,  the  trees  fre« 
quently  fall  into  the  river. 

So  various  were  the  channels  of  the  river  at  this 
time,  that  we  were  at  a  loss  which  to  take.  Our 
guide  preferred  the  easternmost,  on  account  of  the 
Esquimaux,  but  I  determined  to  take  the  middle 
channel,  as  it.  appeared  to  be  a  larger  body  of  water, 
and  running  north  and  south :  besides,  as  there  was  a 
greater  chance  of  seeing  tliem,  I  concluded,  that  we 
could  always  go  to  the  eastward,  whenever  we  might 
prefer  it.  Our  course  was  now  west  by  north  six 
miles,  north-west  by  west,  the  snowy  mountains  be- 
ing west  by  south  from  us,  and  stretching  to  the 
northward  as  far  as  we  could  see.  According  to  the 
information  of  the  Indians,  they  are  part  of  the  chain 
of  mountains  which  we  approached  on  the  third  of 
this  month.  I  obtained  an  observation  this  day  that 
gave  me  67.  47.  north  latitude,  which  was  farther 
north  than  I  expected,  according  to  the  course  I  kept  i 
but  the  difference  was  owing  to  the   variation  of  the 


NortMVest  Continent  of  America.        15*3 

tompassf  which  was  more  easterly  than  I  imagined. 
From  hence  it  was  evident,  that  these  waters  emptied 
themselves  into  the  Hyperborean  sea  ;  and  though  it 
was  probable  that,  from  the  want  of  provision,  we 
could  not  return  to  Athabasca  in  the  course  of  the 
season,  I  nevertheless  determined  to  penetrate  to  the 
discharge  of  them. 

My  new  conductor  being  very  much  discouraged 
and  quite  tired  of  his  situation,  used  his  influence  to 
prevent  our  proceeding.  He  had  never  been,  he  said, 
at'  the  BenahuUa  Toe,  or  White  Man's  Lake  ;  and 
that  when  he  went  to  the  Esquimaux  Lake,  which  is 
at  no  great  distance,  he  passed  bver  land  from  the 
place  where  we  found  him,  and  to  that  part  where 
the  Esquimaux  pass  tlie  summer.  In  short,  my 
hunters  also  became  so  disheartened  from  these  ac- 
counts, and  other  circumstances,  that  I  was  confident 
they  would  have  left  me,  if  it  had  been  in  their  pow- 
er. I,  however,  satisfied  them,  in  some  degree,  by 
the  assurance,  that  I  would  proceed  onwards  but  se- 
ven days  more,  and  if  I  did  not  then  get  .to  the  sea,  I 
would  return.  Indeed,  the  low  state  of  our  provi- 
sions, without  any  other  considerations,  foniied  a  ve- 
ry sufficient  security  for  the  maintenance  of  my  en- 
gagement. Our  last  course  was  thirty-two  miles, 
with  a  stronger  current  than  could  be  expected  in 
such  a  low  country. 

We  now  proceed  north-north-west  four  miles,  north- 
west three  miles^  north-east  two  miles,  north-west  by 
west  three  miles,  and  north-east  two  miles.  At  half 
past  eight  in  the  evening  we  landed  and  pitched  our 
tents,  near  to  where  there  had  been  three  encamp- 
ments of  the  Esquimaux,  since  the  breaking  up  ef  the 
ice.  The  natives,  who  followed  us  yesterday,  U*ft  us 
at  our  station  this  morning.  In  the  course  of  the 
day  wo  saw  large  flocks  of  wildfov/1.     • 

Saturday  II.     I  sat  up  all  night  to  observe  the  sun. 
At  half  past  twelve  I  called  up  one  of  the  men  to  view, 
a  spectacle  which  he  had  never  before  seen ;  when, 
on  seeing  the  sun  so  high,  he  thought  it  was  a  signal 
to  embark,  and  began  to  call  the  rest  of  his  compa- 


15i  yournal  of  a  Veyag*  through  the 

nionS)  who  would  scarcely  be  persuaded  by  me/ that 
the  sun  had  not  descended  nearer  to  the  horizon,  and 
that  It  was  now  but  a  short  time  past  midnight. 

We  reposed,  however,  till  three  quarters  after 
three,  when  we  entered  the  canoe,  and  steered  about 
north-west,  the  river  taking  a  very  serpentine  course. 
About  seven  we  saw  a  ridg^  of  high  land :  at  twelve 
we  landed  at  a  spot  where  we  observed  that  some  of 
the  natives  had  lately  been.  I  counted  thirty  places 
where  there  had  been  fires ;  and  some  of  the  men 
who  went  further,  saw  as  many  more.  They  must 
have  been  here  for  a  considerable  time,  though  it  does 
not  appear  that  they  had  erected  any  huts.  A  great 
numbei-  of  poles,  however,  were  seen  fixed  in  the  ri- 
ver, to  which  they  had  attached  their  nets,  and  there 
seemed  to  be  an  elegant  fishery.  One  of  the  fish,  of 
the  many  which  we  saw  leap  out  of  the  water,  fell  in- 
to our  canoe ;  it  was  about  ten  inches  long,  and  of  a 
round  shape.  About  the  places  where  they  had  made 
their  fires  were  scattered  pieces  of  whalebone,  and 
thick  burned  leather,  with  parts  of  the  frames  of  three 
canoes ;  we  could  also  observe  where  they  had  spilled 
train  oil ;  and  there  was  the  singular  appearance  of  a 
spruce-fir,  stripped  of  its  branches  to  the  top  like  an 
English  may -pole.  The  weather  was  cloudy,  and  the 
air  cold  and  unpleasant.  From  this  place  for  about 
five  miles,  the  river  widens,  it  then  flows  ill  a  variety 
of  narrow,  meandering  channels,  amongst  low  islands, 
enlivened  with  no  trees,  but  a  few  dwarf  willows. 

At  four,  we  landed,  where  there  were  three  houses, 
or  rather  huts,  belonging  to  the  natives.  The  ground- 
plot  is  of  an  oval  form,  about  fifteen  feet  long,  ten  feet 
wide  in  the  middle  and  eight  feet  at  either  end: 
the  whole  of  it  is  dug  about  twelve  inches  below  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  one  half  of  it  is  covered 
over  with  willow  branches  which  probably  serves  as 
a  bed  for  the  whole  family.  A  space,  in  the  middle 
of  the  other  part,  of  about  four  feet  wide,  is  deepened 
twelve  inches  more,  and  is  the  only  spot  in  the  house 
where  a  grown  person  can  stand  upright.  One  side 
of  it  is  covered,  as  has  been  already  described,  and 


North-West  Ctntinent  of  America.        155 

the  other  18  the  hearth,  or  fire-place,  of  which,  how- 
ever, they  do  not  make  much  use.  Though.lt  wai 
close  to  the  wall,  the  latter  did  not  appear  to  be  burn- 
ed. The  door  or  entrance  is  in  the  middle  of  one  end 
of  the  house,  and  is  about  two  feet  and  an  half  high 
and  two  feet  wide,  and  has  a  covered  way  or  porch 
five  feet  in  length ;  so  that  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  creep  on  all  fours  in  order  to  get  into,  or  out  of  this 
curious  habitation.  There  is  an  hole  of  about  eighteen 
inches  square  on  the  top  of  it,  which  serves  the  three- 
fold purpose  of  a  window,  an  occasional  door,  and  a 
chimney.  The  under-ground  part  of  the  floor  is  lined 
with  split  wood.  Six  or  eight  stumps  of  small  trees 
driven  into  the  earth,  with  the  root  upwards,  on  which 
are  laid  some  cross  pieces  of  timber,  support  the  roof 
of  the  builaing,  which  is  an  oblong  square  of  ten  feet 
by  six.  The  whole  is  made  of  drift-wood  covered 
with  branches  and  dry  grass ;  over  which  is  laid  a  foot 
deep  of  earth.  Qn  each  side  of  these  houses  are  & 
few  square  holes  in  the  ground  of  about  two  feet  in 
depth,  which  are  covered  with  split  wood  and  earth, 
except  in  the  middle.  These  appeared  to  be  con- 
trived for  the  preservation  of  the  winter  stoc'c  of  pro- 
visions. In  and  about  the  houses  we  found  skdge 
runners  and  bones,  pieces  of  whalebone,  and  poplar 
bark  cut  in  circles,  which  are  used  as  corks  to  buoy 
the  nets,  and  arc  fixed  to  them  by  pieces  of  whale- 
bone. Before  each  hut  a  great  number  of  stumps  of 
trees  were  fixed  in  the  ground,  upon  which  it  appear- 
ed they  hung  their  fish  to  dry. 

We  now  continued  our  voyage,  and  encamped  at 
eight  o'clock.  I  calculated  our  course  at  about  north- 
west, and,  allowing  for  the  windings,  that  we  had 
made  fifty-four  miles.  We  expected,  througliout  the 
day,  to  meet  with  some  of  the  natives.  On  several 
of  the  islands  we  perceived  the  print  of  their  feet  in 
the  sand,  as  if  they  had  been  there  but  a  few  days  be- 
fore, to  procure  wild  fowl.  There  were  frequent 
showers  of  rain  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  weather  was 
raw  and  disagreeable.    We  saw  a  black  fox';  but  tree* 


156         yourtmlofa  Voyage  through  the 

were  now  become  very  rare  objects,  except  a  few 
dwarf  willows,  of  not  more  than  three  feet  in  height. 

The  discontents  of  our  hunters  were  now  renewed 
by  the  accounts  which  our  guide  had  been  giving  of 
that  part  of  our  voyage  that  was  approaching.  Accord- 
ing to  his  information,  we  were  to  see  a  larger  lalie  on 
the  morrow.  Neither  he  nor  his  relations,  he  said, 
knew  any  thing  about  it,  except  that  part  which  is  op- 
posite to,  and  not  h.r  from,  their  country.  The  Es- 
quimaux alonCf  he  added,  inhabits  its  si  >res,  and 
kill  a  large  fish  that  is  found  in  it,  which  is  a 
principal  part  of  their  food ;  this,  we  presumed,  must 
be  the  whale.  He  also  mentioned  white  bears  and 
another  large  animal  which  was  seen  in  those  parts, 
but  ouif  hunters  could  not  understand  the  description 
which  he  gave  of  it.  He  also  represented  their  ca- 
noes as  being  of  a- large  constniction,  which  would 
Gommodiously  contain  four  or  five  families.  How- 
ever, to  reconcile  the  English  Chief  to  the  necessary 
continuance  in  my  service,  I  presented  him  with  one 
of  my  capots  or  travelling  coats;  at  the  same  time, 
to  satisfy  the  guide,  and  keep  him,  if  possible,  in  good 
humour,  I  gave  him  a  skin  of  the  moose  deer,  which, 
in  his  opinion,  was  a  valuable  present. 

Sunday  13.  It  rained  .vith  violence  throughout  the 
night,  and  till  two  in  the]moming ;  the  weather  continu- 
ing very  cold.  We  proceeded  on  the  same  meandering 
course  as  yesterday,  the  wind  noith-north-west,  and 
the  country  so  naked  that  scarce  a  shrub  was  to  be 
seen.  At  ten  in  the  morning,  we  landed  where  there 
were  four  huts,  exactly  the  same  as  those  which  have 
been  so  lately  described.  The  adjacent  land  is  high, 
and  c^overed  with  short  grass  and  flowers,  though  the 
earth  was  not  thaWed  above  four  inches  from  the  sur- 
face ;  beneath  which  was  a  solid  body  of  ice.  This 
beautiful  appearance,  however,  was  strangely  contrast- 
ed with  the  ice  and  snow  that  are  seen  in  the  vallies. 
The  soil,  where  there  is  any,  is  a  yellow  clay  mixed 
with  stones.  These  huts  appear  to  have  been  inha- 
bited during  the  last  winter ;  and  we  had  reason  to 
think,  that  some  of  the  naUves  had  been  lately  therci 


North-West  Continent  of  America.        157 

as  the  beach  was  covered  with  the  track  of  their  feet. 
Many  of  the  rvmners  and  bars  of  their  sledges  were 
laid  top;ethcr,  near  the  houses,  in  a  manner  that  seem- 
td  to  denote  the  return  of  the  proprietors.  There 
werc^lso  pieces  of  netting  made  of  sinews,  and  some 
bark  of  the  willow.  The  thread  of  the  former  was 
l)laitcd,  and  no  ordinary  portion  of  time  must  have 
been  employed  in  manufacturing  so  great  a  length  of 
cord.  A  square  stone  kettle,  with  a  flat  bottom,  also 
occupied  our  attention,  which  was  capable  of  contain- 
ing two  gallons;  and  we  were  puzxled  as  to  the  means 
these  people  must  have  employed  to  have  chiselled  it 
out  of  a  solid  rock  into  its  present  form.  To  these 
articles  may  be  added,  small  pieces  of  Hint,  fixed  in- 
to handles  of  wood,  which  probably,  serve  as  knives : 
several  wooden  dishes ;  the  stern  and  part  of  a  large 
canoe  ;  pieces  of  very  thick  leather,  which  we  conjec- 
tured to  be  the  covering  of  a  canoe  ;  several  bones  of 
large  fish,  and  two  heads;  but  we  could  not  determine 
the  animal  to  which  they  belonged,  though  we  -con- 
jectured that  it  must  be  the  sea-horse. 

When  we  had  satisfied  our  curiosity  we  re-embark- 
ed, but  we  were  at  a  ioss  what  course  to  steer,  as  our 
guide  seemed  to  be  as  ignorant  of  this  country  as  our- 
selves. Though  the  current  was  very  strong,  we  ap- 
peared to  have  come  to  the  entrance  of  the  lake.  The 
^stream  set  to  the  west,  and  we  went  with  it  to  an  higli 
point,  at  the  distance  of  about  eight  miles,  which  we 
conjectured  to  be  an  island  ;  but,  on  approaching  it,  we 
perceived  it  to  be  connected  with  the  shore  by  a  low 
neck  of  land.  I  now  tiok  an  observation  which  gave 
69.  1.  north  latitude.  From  the  point  that  has  been 
just  mentioned,  we  continued  the  same  course  for  the 
westernmost  point  of  an  high  island,  and  the  western- 
tnost  land  in  sight,  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  miles. 

The  lake  was  quite  open  to  us  to  the  westward,  and 
out  of  the  channel  of  the  river  there  was  not  more 
than  four  feet  water,  and  in  some  places  the  depth 
did  not  exceed  one  foot.  From  the  shallovirness  of 
the  water  it  was  impossible  to  coast  to  the  westward. 
At  five  o'clock  wc  arrived  at  the  iiimdt  and  during 


tS8         Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


the  last  fifteen  miles,  five  feet  was  the  deepest  water. 
The  lake  now  appeared  to  be  covered  with  ice,  for 
about  two  leagues  distance,  and  no  land  a-head,  so 
that  we  were  prevented  from  proceeding  in  this  di- 
rection by  the  ice,  and  the  shallowness  of  the  water 
along  the  shore. 

We  landed  at  the  boundary  of  our  voyage  in  this 
direction,  and  as  soon  as  the  tents  were  pitched  I  or- 
dered the  nets  to  be  set,  when  I  proceeded  with  the 
English  chief  to  the  highest  part  of  the  island,  from 
which  we  discovered  the  solid  ice,  extending  from 
the  south-west  by  compass  to  the  eastward.  As  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach  to  the  south-westward,  we 
could  dimly  perceive  a  chain  of  mountains,  stretch- 
ing further  to  the  liorth  than  the  edge  of  the  ice,  at 
the  dfetance  of  upwards  of  twenty  leagues.  To  rfie 
eastward  w:;.  saw  many  islands,  and  in  our  progress 
we  met  with  a  considerable  number  of  white  partrid- 
ges, now  become  brown.  There  were  also  flocks  of 
very  beautiful  plovers,  and  I  found  the  nest. of  one  of 
them  with  four  eggs.  White  owls,  likewise,  were 
among  the  inhabitants  of  the  place  :  but  the  dead,  as 
well  as  the  living,  demanded  our  attention,  for  we 
came  to  the  grave  of  one  of  the  natives,  by  which  lay 
a  bow,  a  paddle,  and  a  spear.  The  Indians  informed 
me  that  they  landed  on  a  small  island,  about  four 
leagues  from  hence,  where  they  had  seen  the  tracks  of 
two  men  that  were  quite  fresh ;  they  had  also  found 
a  secret  store  of  train  oil,  and  severd  bones  of  white 
bears  were  scattered  about  the  place  where  it  was  hid. 
The  wind  was  now  so  high  .that  it  was  impracticable 
for  us  to  visit  the  nets. 

My  peopl*;  could  not,  at  this  time,  refrain  from  ex- 
pressions of  real  concern,  that  they  were  obliged  to 
return  without  reaching  the  sea :  indeed,  the  hope  of 
attaining  this  object  encouraged  them  to  bear,  with- 
out repining,  the  hardships  of  our  unremitting  voyage. 
JFor  some  time  past  their  spirits  were  animated  by  the 
expectation  that  another  day  would  bring  them  to  the 
Met  d* Quest  i  and  even  in  bur  present  situation  they 
doiclared  their  readiness   to   follow   me  wherever  I 


North-West  Continent  of  America.        15!) 

should  be  pleased  to  lead  them.  We  saw  several 
large  white  gulls,  and  other  birds,  whose  back  and 
upper  feathers  of  the  wing,  are  brown ;  and  whose  beU 
ly,  and  under  feathers  of  the  wing,  are  white. 


CHAPTER  V. 


The  bagsage  r  .moved  from  the  rising  of  tlie  water.  One  of  the  nets  driven 
away  by  tlie  wind  and  current.  Whales  are  seen.  Go  in  pursuit  of  them,  but 
prevented  from  continuing  it  by  the  fog.  Proceed  to  take  a  view  of  the  ice. 
canoe  in  danger  from  the  swell.  Examine  the  islands.  Descrii^e  one  of  Aem. 
Erect  a  post  to  perpetuate  our  visit  there.  The  rising  of  the  water  appears  to 
be  the  tide.  Successful  filing.  Uncertain  weather.  Sail  among  the  islands. 
Proceed  to  a  river.  Temperature  of  tiie  air  improves.  Land  on  a  small  island, 
which  is  a  place  of  sepulture.  Description  of  it.  See  a  great  number  of' wild 
fowl.  Fine  view  of  the  river  from  the  liigh  land.  The  hunters  kill  rein-deer. 
Cranb'^rries,  &c.  found  in  great  plentv.  The  appearance  and  state  of  the 
country.  Our  guide  deserts.  Large  flight  of  geese :  kill  many  of  them.  Vio- 
lent ram.  Return  up  the  river.  Leave  the  channels  for  the  main  stream.  Obliged 
to  tow  the  canoe.  Land  among  the  natives.  Circumstances  coi^rning  them. 
Their  accountof  the  Esquimaux  Indians.  Accompany  the  aatirmo  their  buts. 
Account  of  our  provisions. 

Jnfyy  1789.1  TTT 

Monday  13.  J  W  E  had  DO  sooHcr  retired  to  rest  last  night, 
if  I  may  use  that  expression,  in  a  country  where  the 
sun  never  sinks  beneath  the  horizon,  than  some  of  the 
people  were  obliged  to  rise  fwid  remove  the  baggagC) 
on  account  of  the  rising  of  the  water.  At  eight  in 
the  morning  the  weather  was  fifte  and  calm,  which  af- 
forded an  opportunity  to  examine  the  nets,  one  of 
which  had  been  driven  from  its  position  by  the  wind 
and  current.  We  caught  seven  poissons  inconnus^ 
which  were  unpalatable ;  a  white  fish,  that  proved  de- 
licious ;  and  another  about  the  size  of  an  herring, 
which  n  le  of  us  had  ever  seen  before,  except  the 
English  Chief  who  recognized  it  as  being  of  a  kind 
that  abounds  in  Hudson's  Bay.  About  noon  the  wind 
blew  hard  from  the  westward,  when  I  took  an  obser- 
vation, which  gave  69.  i4.  north  latitude,  and  the 
meridian  variation  of  the  compass  was  thirty-si^  de- 
grees eastward.* 

This  afternoon  I  re-ascendcd  the  hill,  but  could 
not  discover  that  the  ice  had  been  put  in  motion  by 
the  force  of  the  wind.    At  the  same  time  I  could  just 

•  The  loositude  \m  (luce  been  ^novere^  ty  the  d«td  leefcoinQi;  to  lie  199. 


IGO  yournal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

distinguish  two  small  islands  in  the  ice,  to  the  north- 
west by  compass.  I  now  thought  it  necessary  to  give 
a  new  net  to  my  men  to  mount,  in  order  to  obtain  as 
much  provision  as  possible  from  the  water,  our  stores 
being  reduced  to  about  five  hundred  weight,  which, 
without  any  other  supply,  would  not  have  sufficed  fop 
fifteen  people  about  twelve  days.  One  of  the  young 
Indians,  however,  was  so  fortunate  as  to  find  the  net 
Chat  had  been  missing,  and  which  contained  three  of 
the  poissons  inconnus. 

Tuesday  14.  It  blew  very  hard  from  the  north-w-sst 
since  the  preceding  evening.  Having  sat  up  till  three 
in  the  morning,  1  slept  longer  than  usual ;  but  about 
eight  one  of  my  men  saw  a  great  many  animals  in  the 
water,  which  he  at  first  supposed  to  be  pieces  of  ice. 
Abou|;  nine,  however,  I  was  awakened  to  resolve  the 
doubts  which  had  taken  place  re^'^iecting  this  extraor- 
dinary appearance.  I  immediately  perceived  that 
they  were  whales :  and  having  ordered  the  canoe  to 
be  prepared,  we  embarked  iu  pursuit  of  them..  It 
was,  indeed,  a  very  wild  and  unreflecting  enterprize, 
and  it  was  a.  very  fortunate  circumstance  that  we  fail- 
ed in  our  attempt  to  overtake  them,  as  a  stroke  from 
the  tail  of  one  of  these  enormous  fish  would  have 
dashed  the  canoe  to  pieces.  We  may,  perhaps,  have 
been  indebted  to  the  foggy  weather  for  our  safety,  as 
it  prevented  us  from  continuing  our  pursuit.  Our 
guide  informed  us  that  they  are  the  same  kind  of  fish 
which  are  the  principal  food  of  the  Esquimaux,  and 
they  were  frequently  seen  as  large  as  our  canoe. 
The  part  of  them  which  appeared  above  the  water 
was  altogether  white,  and  they  were, much  larger 
than  the  largest  porpoise. 

About  twelve  the  fog  dispersed,  and  being  curious 
to  take  a  view  of  the  ice,  I  gave  orders  for  the  canoe 
to  be  got  in  readiness.  We  accordingly  embarked, 
and  the  Indians  followed  us.  We  had  not,  however, 
been  an  hour  on  the  water,  when  the  wind  rose  on  a 
sudden  from  the  north-east,  and  obliged  us  to  tack 
about,  fiind  the  return  of  the  fog  prevented  us  from 
ascertaining  our  distance  from  the  ice ;  indeed,  from 


Ksrth-'West  Continent  bf  America.        161 

ihis  circumstance,  the  island  which  we  had  so  laitdy 
left  was  but  dimly  seen.  Though  the  wind  was  cloaey 
we  ventured  to  hoist  the  8ail»  and  from  the  violence 
of  the  swell  it  was  by  great  exertions  that  two  men 
could  bale  out  the  water  from  oiir  canoe.  We  were 
in  a  state  of  actual  danger,  and  felt  every  corres- 
ponding emotion  of  pleasure  when  we  reached  the 
land.  The  Indians  had  fortunately  got  more  to  wind- 
ward^ so  that  the  swell  in  some  measure  drove  them 
on  shorcv  though  their  canoes  were  nearly  filled  with 
water;  and  had  they  been  laden. we  should  h«^e  seen 
them  no  more.  As  I  did  nut  propose  to  .  .<sfy  my 
curiosity  at  the  risk  of  similar  dangers,  we  continued 
our  course  along  the  islands,  which  screened  us  from 
the  wind.  I  was  now  determined  to  take  a  more  par- 
ticular examination  of  the  islands,  in  the  hope  of 
meeting  with  parties  of  the  natives,  from  whom  I 
might  be  able  to  obtain  some  in'.eresting  intelligence, 
though  our  conductor  discoura^'ed  my  expectations  by 
representing  them  as  very  shy  and  inaccessible  peo- 
ple. At  the  same  time  he  informed  me  that  we  should 
probaby  find  some  of  them,  if  we  navigated  the  chan- 
nel which  he  had  originally  recommended  us  to  enter. 

At  eight  we  encamped  on  the  eastern  end  of  the 
island,  which  I  had  named  the  Whale  Island.  It  is 
about  seven  leagues  in  length,  east  and  west  by  com- 
pass ;  but  not  more  than  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  W<e 
saw  several  red  foxes,  one  of  which  was  killed.  There 
were  also  five  or  six  very  old  huts  on  tl|e  point  where 
we  had  taken  our  station.  The  nets  were  now  seti 
and  one  of  them  in  five  fathom  water,  the  current  set- 
ting north-east  by  compass.  This  morning  I  ordered 
a  post  to  be  erected  close  to  our  tents,  on  which  I  en- 
graved the  latitude  of  the  place,  my  own  name,  the 
number  of  persons  which  I  had  with  me,  and  the 
time  we  remained  there 

tVednesday  15.  Being  awakened  by  some  casual 
circumstance,  at  four  this  morning,  I  was  surprised  on 
perceiving  that  the  water  had  flowed  under  our  bag- 
gage. As  the  wind  had  not  changed,  and  did  not 
blow  with  greater  violence  than  when  we  went  to  rcstj. 

02 


i'iti 


162  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

>fre  were  all  of  opinion  that  this  circumstance'  pr©-^ 
cecded  from  the  tide.  We  had,  indeed,  observed  at 
the  other  end  of  the  island  that  the  water  rose  and 
fell ;  but  we  then  imagined  that  it  must  have  been  oc- 
casioned by  the  wind.  The*  water  continued  to  rise 
till  about  six,  but  I  could  not  ascertain  the  time  with 
the  requisite  precision,  as  the  wind  then  began  to  blow 
with  great  violence  ;  I  therefore  determined,  at  all 
events,  to  remain  here  till  the  next  morning,  though, 
as  it  happened,  the  state  of  the  wind  was  such  as  to 
render  my  stay  here  an  act  of  necessity.  Our  nets 
were  not  very  successful,  as  they  presented  us  with 
only  e^ght  fish.  From  an  observation  which  I  obtain- 
ed at  noon,  we  were  in  69.  7.  north  latitude.  As  the 
evening  approached,  the  wind  increased,  and  the  wea- 
ther tfecame  cold.  Two  swans  were  the  only  provi- 
sions which  the  h^mters  procured  for  us. 

Thursday  16.  The  rain  did  not  cease  till  seven  this 
morning,  the  weather  beingatintei'vals  very  cold  and 
impleasant.  Such  was  its  inconstancy,  that  I  could 
not  make  an  accurate  observation ;  but  the  tide  ap- 
peared to  rise  sixteen  or  eighteen  inches. 

We  now  embarked,  and  steered  under  sail  among 
the  islands,  where  I  hoped  to  meet  with  some  of  the 
natives,  but  my  expectations  was  not  gratified.  Our 
guide  imagined  that  they  were  gone  to  their  distant 
haunts,  where  they  fish  for  whale  and  hunt  tlie  rein- 
deer, that  are  opposite  to  this  country.  His  relations, 
he  said,  see  them  every  year,  but  he  did  not  encou- 
rage us  to  expect  that  we  should  find  any  of  them, 
unless  it  were  at  a  small  river  that  falls  into  the  great 
one,  from  the  eastward,  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  our  immediate  situation.  We  accordingly  made 
for  the  river,  and  stemmed  the  current.  At  two  in 
the  afternoon  the  water  was  quite  shallow  in  every 
part  of  our  course,  and  we  could  always  find  the  bot- 
tom with  the  paddle.  At  seven  we  landed,  encamp- 
ed, and  set  the  nets.  Here  the  Indians  killed  two 
geese,  two  cranes,  and  a  white  owl.  Since  we  en- 
tered the  river,  we  experienced  a  very  agreeable 
change  in  tl.e  temperature  of  the  air  j  but  this  plea- 


mce  we  en- 


29'orthAVest  Continent  of  America,         163 

sant  circumstance  was  not  without  its  inconvenience 
as  it  subjected  us  to  the  persecution  of  the  musquitoes. 

Friday,  17.  On  taking  up  the  nets,  they  were 
found  to  contain  but  six  fish.  We  embarked  at  four 
in  the  morning,  and  passed  four  encampments,  which 
appeared  to  have  been  very  lately  inhabited.  We 
then  landed  upon  a  small,  round  island,  close  to  the 
eastern  shore,  which  possessed  somewhat  of  a  sacred 
character,  as  the  top  of  it  seemed  to  be  a  place  of 
sepulture,  from  the  numerous  graves  which  we  oi 
served  there.  We  found  the  frame  of  a  small  canoe, 
with  various  dishes,  troughs,  and  other  utensils,  which 
had  been  the  living  property  of  those  who  could  now 
use  them  no  more,  and  form  the  ordinary  accompani- 
ments of  their  last  abodes.  As  no  part  of  the  skins 
that  must  have  covered  the  canoe  was  remaining,  we 
concluded  that  it  had  been  eaten  by  wild  animals  that 
inhabit,  or  occasionally  frequent,  the  island.  The 
frame  of  the  canoe,  which  was  entire,  was  put  together 
with  whalebone :  it  was  sewed  in  some  parts,  and  tied 
ill  others.  The  sledges  were  from  four  to  eight  feet 
long;  the  length  of  the  bars  was  upwards  of  two  feet; 
the  runners  Avere  two  inciies  thick,  and  nine  inches 
deep  ;  the  prow  was  two  feet  and  a  half  high,  and 
formed  of  two  pieces,  sewc'd  with  whalebone ;  to  three 
other  thin  spars  of  wood,  which  were  of  the  same 
Height,  and  fixed  in  the  runners  by  means  of  mortises, 
were  sewed  two  thin  broad  bars  lengthways,  at  a  small 
distance  from  each  other ;  these  frames  were  fixed  to- 
gether with  three  or  four  cross-bars,  tied  fast  upon 
the  runners;  and  on  the  lower  edge  of  the  latter, 
small  pieces  of  horn  were  fastened  by  wooden  pegs, 
tnat  they  might  slide  with  greater  facility.  They  are 
drawn  by  shafts,  which  I  imagine  are  applied  to  any 
particular  sledge  as  they  are  wanted,  as  I  saw  no  more 
than  one  paii  of  them. 

About  half  past  one  we  came  opposite  to  the  first 
spruce-tree  that  we  had  seen  for  some  time  ;  there  are 
but  very  few  of  them  on  the  main  land,  and  they  are 
very  small ;  those  are  larger  which  are  found  on  the 
islands,  were  they  grow  in  patches,  and  close  together. 


164  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

It  is,  indeed,  very  extraordinary  that  there  should  be 
any  wood  whatever  in  a  country  were  the  grotiird 
never  thaws  above  five  inches  from  the  surface.  We 
landed  at  seven  in  the  evening.  The  weather  was 
now  very  pleasant,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  we 
saw  great  numbers  of  wild  fowl,  with  their  young 
ones,  but  they  were  so  shy  that  we  could  not  approach 
them*  The  Indians  were  not  very  successful  in  their 
foraging  party,  as  they  killed  only  two  grey  cranes, 
and  a  grey  goose.  Two  of  them  Were  employed  on 
the  high  land  to  the  eastward,  through  the  greater 
part  of  the  day,  in  search  of  rein-deer,  but  they  could 
discover  nothing  more  than  a  few  tracks  of  that  ani- 
mal. I  also  ascended  the  high  land,  from  whence  I 
had  a  delightful  view  of  the  river,  divided  into  innu- 
merable streams,  meandering  through  islands,  some 
of  which  were  covered  with  wood,  and  others  with 
grass.  The  mountains,  that  forn\^d  the  opposite 
horizon,  were  at  the  distance  of  forty  miles.  The  in- 
land view  was  neither  so  extensive  nor  agvee able,  be- 
ing terminated  by  a  near  range  of  bleak,  barren  hills, 
between  which  are  small  lakes  or  ponds,  while  the  sur- 
rounding country  is  covered  with  tufts  of  moss,  with- 
out the  shade  of  a  single  tree.  Along  the  hills  is 
a  kind  of  fence,  made  with  branches,  where  the  na- 
tives had  set  snares  to  catch  white  partridges. 

Saturday  18.  The  nets  did  not  produce  a  single 
fish,  and  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  took  our 
departure.  The  weather  Was  fine  and  clear,  and 
we  passed  several  encampments.  As  the  prints  of 
human  feet  were  very  fresh  in  the  sand,  it  could  not 
have  been  long  since  the  natives  had  visited  the  spot. 
We  now  proceeded  in  the  hope  of  meeting  with  some 
of  them  at  the  river,  whither  our  guide  was  conduct- 
ing us  with  that  expectation.  We  observed  a  great 
number  of  trees,  in  different  places,  whose  branches 
had  been  lopped  off  to  the  tops.  They  denote  the  im- 
mediate abode  of  the  natives,  and  probably  serve  for 
signals  to  direct  each  other  to  their  respective  winteri; 
quarters.  Our  hunters,  in  the  course  of  the  day  kil? 
led  two  rein-dee r»  which  were  the  only  large  animal^^ 


^^orth'West  Continent  of  America*        165. 

Vhat  we  had  seen  since  we  had  been  in  this  river,  and 
proved  a  very  seasonable  supply,  as  our  Pemmican 
had  become  mouldy  for  some  time  past ;  though  iu 
that  situation  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  eating  it. 

In  the  vallies  and  low  lands  near  the  river,  cran- 
berries are  found  in  great  abundance,  particularly  in 
favorable  aspects.  It  is  a  singular  circumstance,  that 
the  fruit  of  two  succeeding  years  may  be  gathered 
at  the  same  time,  from  the  ^ame  shrub.  Here  was 
also  another  berry,  of  a  very  pale  yellow  colour,  that 
resembles  a  raspberry,  and  is  of  a  very  agreeable  fla- 
vour. There  is  a  great  variety  of  other  plants  and 
herbs,  whose  names  and  properties  are  unknown  to 
me. 

The  weather  became  cold  towards  the  afternoon, 
with  the  appearance  of  rain,  and  we  landed  for  the 
night  at  seven  in  th  evening.  The  Indians  killed 
eight  geese.  During  the  greater  part  of  the  day  I 
walked  with  the  English  Chief,  and  found  it  very  dis- 
agreeable and  fatiguing.  Though  the  country  is  so 
elevated,  it  was  one  continual  morass,  except  on  the 
summit  of  some  barren  hills.  As  I  carried  my  hang- 
er in  my  hand,  I  frequently  examined  if  any  part  of 
the  ground  was  in  a  state  of  thaw,  but  could  never 
force  the  blade  into  it,  beyond  the  depth  of  six  or 
eight  inches.  The  face  of  the  high  land,  towards  the 
river,  is  in  some  places  rocky,  and  in  others  a  mixture 
of  sand  and  stone,  veined  with  a  kmd  of  red  earth, 
with  which  the  natives  bedaub  themselves. 

Sunday  19.  It  rained,  and  blev/  hard  from  the  north , 
till  eight  in  the  morning,  when  we  discovered  that 
our  conductor  had  escaped.  I  was,  indeed,  surprized: 
at  his  honesty,  as  he  left  the  moose-skin  which  I  had 
given  him  for  a  covering,  and  went  off  in  his  shirt, 
though  the  weather  was  very  cold.^*  I  inquired  of 
the  Indians  if  they  had  given  him  any  cause  of  of- 
fence, or  had  observed  any  recent  disposition  in  him 
to  desert  us,  but  they  assured  me  that  they  had  not  in 
any  instance  displeased  him :  at  the  same  time  they 
recollected  that  he  had  expressed  his  apprehensions 
of  being  taken  away  as  a  slave :  and  his  alarms  were 


166  Journal  of  a  Voynge  through  the 


i-  '«! 


probably  increased  on  the  preceding  day,  when  hfcsaw 
them  kill  liic  two  rein-deer  with  so  much  readiness.  In 
the  afternoon  the  weather  became  fine  and  clear,  when 
we  saw  large  flights  of  geese  with  their  young  ones, 
and  the  hunters  killed  twenty-two  of  them.  As  they 
hail  at  this  time  cast  t'  *'r  f»:'athers,  they  could  not 
fly.  They  were  of  asm.  :  ^u.  -  and  much  inferior  in 
size  to  those  that  frequen  l^^e  v.cinity  of  Athabasca. 
At  eight, we  took  our  station  neai  :.\  Indian  encamp- 
ment, and,  as  we  had  observed  in  similar  situations, 
pieces  of  bone,  rein-deer's  horn,  &:c.  were  scattered 
about  it.  It  also  appeared,  that  the  natives  had  been 
employed  here  in  working  wood  into  arms,  utensils, 
tec. 

Monday  20.  We  embarked  at  three  this  morning, 
when  the  weather  was  cloudy,  with  small  rain  and  aft 
v^ind.  About  twelve  the  rain  became  so  violent  as  to 
compel  UB  to  encamp  at  two  in  the  afternoon.  We 
saw  great  numbers  of  fowl,  and  killed  among  us  fif- 
teen geese  and  four  swans.  Had  the  weather  been 
more  favorable,  we  should  have  added  considerable  to 
our  booty.  We  now  passed  the  river,  where  Ve  ex- 
pected to  meet  some  of  the  natives,  but  discovered  no 
signs  of  them.  The  ground  close  to  the  river  dot* 
not  rise  to  any  considerable  height,  and  the  hills  which 
are  at  a  small  distance,  are  Covered  with  the  spruce-fir 
and  small  birch  trees,  to  their  very  summits. 

Iheaday  21.  We  embarked  at  half  past  one  this 
morning,  when  the  weather  was  cold  and  unpleasant^ 
and  the  wind  south-west.  At  ten,  we  left  the  chan- 
nels formed  by  the  islands  for  the  uninterrupted  chan- 
nel of  the  river,  where  we  found  the  current  so  strong, 
that  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  tow  the  canoe  with 
a  line.  The  land  on  both  sides  was  elevated,  and  al- 
most perpendicular,  and  the  shore  beneath  it,  which 
is  of  no  great  breadth,  was  covered  with  a  grey  stone 
that  falls  from  the  precipice.  We  made  much  great- 
er expedition  with  the  line,  than  we  could  have  done 
with  the  paddles.  The  men  in  the  canoe  relieved  two 
of  those  on  shore  every  two  hours,  so  that  it  was  ve- 
ry hai*d  and  fatiguing  duty,  but  it  saved  a  great  deal 


Xbrth-West  Continent  of  America,        167 

of  that  time  which  was  so  precious  to  us.  At  half 
past  eight,  we  landed  at  the  same  spot  where  we  had 
already  encamped  on  the  ninth  instant. 

In  about  an  hour  after  our  arrival)  we  were  joined 
by  eleven  of  the  natives,  who  were  stationed  further 
up  the  river,  and  there  were  some  among  them  whom 
we  had  not  seen  during  our  former  visit  to  this  place* 
The  brother  of  our  late  guide,  however,  was  of  the 
party,  and  was  eager  in  his  inquiries  after  him ;  but 
our  account  did  not  prove  satisfactory.  They  all  gave 
evident  tokens  of  their  suspicion,  and  each  of  them 
made  a  distinct  harangue  on  the  occasion.  Our  In- 
dians, indeed,  did  not  understand  their  eloquence, 
though  they  conjectured  it  to  be  very  unfavourable  to 
our  assertions.  The  brother,  nevertheless,  proposed 
to  barter  his  credulity  for  a  small  quantity  of  beads,* 
and  promised  to  believe  every  thing  I  should  say,  if 
I  would  gratify  him  with  a  few  of  those  baubles }  but 
he  did  not  succeed  in  his  proposition,  and  I  content- 
ed myself  with  giving  him  the  bow  and  arrows  which 
our  conductor  had  left  with  us. 

My  people  were  now  necessarily  engaged  in'  put- 
ting the  fire-arms  in  order,  after  the  violent  rain  of 
the  preceding  day ;  an  employment  which  very  much 
attracted  the  curiosity,  and  appeared,  in  some  de> 
gree,  to  awaken  the  apprehensions  of  the  natives. 
To  their  inquiries  concerning  the  motives  of  our  pre- 
paration, we  answered  by  showing  a  piece  of  meat 
and  a  goose,  and  informing  them,  that  we  were  pre- 
paring our  arms  to  procure  similar  provisions ;  at  the 
same  time  we  assured  them,  though  it  was  our  inten- 
tion to  kill  any  animals  we  might  find,  there  was  no 
intention  to  hurt  or  injure  them.  They,  however, 
entreated  us  not  to  discharge  our  pieces  in  their  pre- 
sence. I  requested  the  English  Chief  to  ask  them 
some  questions,  which  they  either  did  or  would  not 
understand ;  so  that  I  failed  in  obtaining  any  informa- 
tion from  them. 

All  my  people  went  to  rest ;  but  I  thought  it  pru- 
denjtito  sit  up,  in  order  to  watch  the  motions  of  the 
natives.    This  circumstance  was  a  subject  of  their 


168  yournalofa  Voyage  through  the 

inquiry ;  and  their  curiosity  was  still  more  excited, 
when  they  saw  me  employed  in  writiiitg.  About 
twelve  o'clock  I  perceived  four  of  their  women  com- 
ing along  the  shore :  and  they  were  no  sooner  seen 
by  their  friends,  than  they  ran  hastily  to  meet  them, 
and  persuaded  two  of  them,  who,  I  suppose,  were 
young,  to  return,  while  they  brought  the  other  two 
who  were  very  old,  to  enjoy  the  warmth  of  our  fire ; 
but,-  after  stayi'  g  there  for  about  half  an  hour,  they 
also  retreated.  Those  who  remained,  immediately 
kindled  a  small  fire,  and  laid  themselves  down  to 
sleep  round  it,  like  so  many  whelps,  having  neither 
skins  or  garments  of  any  kind  to  cover  them,  not- 
withstanding the  cold  that  prevailed.  My  people  hav- 
ing  placed  their  kettle  of  meat  on  the  fire,  I  was  ob. 
liged  to  guard  it  from  the  natives,  who  made  several 
attempts  to  possess  themselves  of  its  contents ;  and 
this  was  the  only  instance  I  had  hitherto  discovered, 
of  their  being  influenced  by  a  pilfering  disposition. 
It  might,  perhaps,  be  a  general  opinion,  that  provi- 
sions were  a  common  property.  I  now  saw  the  sun 
set  for  the  first  time  since  I  had  been  here  before. 
During  the  preceding  night,  the  weather  was  so  clou- 
dy, that  I  could  not  observe  its  descent  to  the  hori- 
zon. The  water  had  sunk,  at  this  place,  upwards  of 
three  feet  since  we  had  passed  down  the  river. 

Wednesday  22.  We  began  our  march  at  half  past 
three  this  morning,  the  men  being  employed  to  tow 
the  canoe.  I  walked  with  the  Indians  to  their  huts, 
which  were  at  a  greater  distance  than  1  had  any  rea- 
son to  expect,  for  it  occupied  three  hours  in  hard 
walking  to  reach  them.  We  passed  a  narrow  and 
•  deep  river  in  our  way,  at  the  mouth  of  which  the  na- 
tives had  set  their  nets.  They  had  hid  their  effects, 
and  sent  their  young  Women  into  the  woods,  as  we 
saw  but  very  few  of  the  former,  and  none  of  the  lat- 
ter. They  had  large  huts  built  with  drift-wood  on 
the  declivity  of  the  beach,  and  in  the  inside  the  earth 
was  dug  away,  so  as  to  form  a  level  floor.  At  each 
end  was  a  stout  fork,  whereon  was  laid  a  strong  ridgcf 
pole,  which  formed  a  support  to  the  whole  structure, 


JS'orth'Wett  Continent  of  America, 


t^ 


And  a  covering  of  spruce  bark  preserved  it  from  the 
rain.  Various  span  of  difteiwt  heights  were  fixed 
within  the  hut,  and  covered  With  iiplit  fish  that  hung 
on  them  to  dry :  and  fires  were  made  in  different  parts 
to  accelerate  the  operation.  There  were  rails  also  on 
the  out8id«  of  the  building,  which  were  hung  ar«und 
with  fish,  bwt  in  a  fresh€r  state  than  those  within* 
The  spawn'  is  also  CM^eftilly  preserved  and  dried  in 
the  same  manner.  We  obtained  as  many  fish  from 
them  as  the  canoe  could  conveniently  contain,  and 
some  strings  of  beads  were  the  price  paid  for  them^ 
an  article  which  they  prefered  to  every  other.  Irdii 
they  held  in  little  or  no  estimation.  ./ 

During  the  two  hours  that  I  re;mained  here,  I  em* 
ployed  the  English  Chief  in  a  continual  state  of  in* 
(juiry  concerning  th«»e  people.  The  information  that 
resulted  from  this  conference  was  as  fqllows  : 

This  nation,  or  tribe,  is  very  numerous,  with  whom 
the  Esquimaux  had  been  continually  at  yariance,  A 
people  who  take  every  advantage  <Jf  attacking  those 
who  art  not  in  a  state  to  defend  themselves ;  and 
though  they  had  prtimised  friendkhif),  had  lately,  in 
the  most  treacherous  mjknner,  butchered  some  of  their 
people.  As  a  proof  of  this  circumstance,  the  rela- 
tions of  the  deceased  shewed'  usj  that  they  had  cut  off 
their  hair  on  the  occasion*  They  aliso  declared  their 
determination  to  withdraw  all  confidence  in  future 
from  the  Esquimaux,  and  to  collect  themselves  in  a 
formidable  body,  that  they  might  be  enabled  to  re- 
venge the  dieath  of  their  friends.  • 

From  their  account,  a  strong  party  of  Esquimaux  oe* 
casionally  ascends  this  river  in  large  canoes,  in  search 
of  flint  stonesj  which  they  employ  to  poiiii  their  spearc 
and  arrows.  They  were  now  at  their  lake  due  east  from 
the  spot  where  We  then  were,  which  was  atnogreatjdis- 
tanceover  land,  where  they  kill  the  rein-deer,  and  that 
they  would  soon  begin  to  catch  big  fish  for  the  winter 
stock.  We  could  not,  however^  obtain  any  inf^^rms- 
tion  respecthig  the  lake  in  the  dif^ction  in  which  we 
were.  To  the  eastward  and  westward  where  they  s»# 
it^  tlie  ice  breidcs  up,  but  soon  freejces  again*. 


IfO         Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


Mm 


it,i 


The  Esquimaux  informed  theiA  that  they  saw  largt 
canoes  full  of  white  men  to  the  westward^  eight  or 
ten  winters  ago,  from  whom  they  obtained  iron  in  ex* 
change  for  leather.  The  lake  where  they  met  these 
canoeS)  is  called  by  them  Belhoultuxj  Toe^  or  White 
Man's  Lake.  They  also  represented  the  Esquimaux 
as  dressing  like  themselves.  They  wear  their  hair 
short,  and  ha?e  two  holes  perfbiated, one  on  each  side 
of  the  mouth,  in  a  line  with  the  under  lip,  in  which 
they  place  long  beads  that  they  find  in  the  lake*-  Their 
bows  are  somewhat  different  from  those  used  by  the 
natives  we  had  seen,  and  they  employ  slings  from 
whence  they  throw  stones  with  such  dexterity,  that 
they  prove  very  formidable  weapons  in  the  day  of 
battle. 

We  also  learned,  in  addition  from  the  natives,  that  we 
should  not  see  any  more  of  their  relations,  as  they  had 
all  left  the  river  to  go  in  pursuit  of  rein-deer  for  their 
provisions,  and  that  they  themselves  should  engage  in 
a  similar  expedition  in  a  few  days.  Rein-deer,  bears, 
wolvereens,  martins,  foxes,  hares,  and  white  buffa- 
loes, are  the  only  quadrupeds  in  their  countiy  ;  and 
that  the  latter  were  only  to  be  found  in  the  mountains 
to  the  westward. 

We  proceeded  with  the  line  throughout  the  day, 
except  two  hours,  when  we  employed  the  sail.  We 
encamped  at  eight  in  the  evening.  From  the  place 
we  quitted  this  morning,  the  banks  of  the  river  are 
well  covered  with  small  wood,  spruce,  firs,  birch,  and 
willow.  We  found  it  very  warm  during  the  whole  of 
our  progress. 

Thur9day  23.  At  five  in  the  morning  we  proceed- 
ed on  our  voyage,  but  found  it  very  difficult  to  travel 
along  the  beach.  We  observed  several  places  where 
the  natives  had  stationed  themselves  and  set  their 
nets  since  our  passage  downwards.  We  passed  a 
small  river,  and  at  five  o'clock  our  Indians  put  to 
shore  in  order  to  encamp,  but  we  proceeded  onwards, 
which  displeased  them  very  much,  from  the  fatigue 
they  suffered,  and  at  eight  we  encamped  at  our  posi- 
tion of  the  8th  instant.     The  day  was  very  finei  ^ji 


NgytMli^eH  Cmiinent  of  America*        171 

we  employed  the  towing^  line  throughout  the  course  of 
it.  At  ten)  our  hunters  returned)  sullen  and  dissatis- 
fied. We  had  not  touqhed  any  of  our  provision 
stores  for  six  dayS)  in  which  time  we  had  consumed 
two  rein-deef)  four  swanS)  forty-five  g^ese)  and  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  fish  :  but  it  is  to  be  considered) 
that  we  were  ten  men,  and  four  women.  1  have  J- 
ways  observed)  that  the  north  men  possessed  very 
hearty  appetites,  but  they  were  very  much  exceeded  by 
those  with  me)  since  we  entered  this  river.  I  should 
really  have  thouglit  it  absolute  gluttony  in  my  people, 
if  my  own  appetite  had  not  increased  in  a  similar 
proportion. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Employ  the  towing  line.  Detcriptlon  of  a  place  where  the  Indiana  come  to  collect 
Dint.  Their  ihyneii  and  suspldom.  Current  letiens.  Appearance  of  the 
country.  Abundance  of  hare*.  Violent  itorai.  Land  near  three  lodges. 
Alarm  of  the  Indians.  Supple  of  fiih  firom  then.  Their  fabulous  account!. 
Continue  to  see  Indian  loo^ei.  Treatment  of  a  diteaw.  Misuadertuading 
with  the  natives.  The  interpreter  harangues  them.  Tlteir  accounts  similar  to 
those  we  have  already  received.  Their  curious  conduct  Purduse  some  bea> 
ver  skins.  Slioot  one  of  their  dogs.  The  consequence  of  thatact.  Apprebea* 
sions  of  the  women.  Large  quantities  of  liquorice.  Swallow's  nestt  seen  in 
the  precipices.  Fall  in  with  a  party  of  natives  killing  geese.  Circumstances 
concerning  them.  Hurricane.  Variation  of  the  weather.  Kill  great  numbers 
*  of  geese.  Abundance  of  several  kiada  of  berries.  Sute  of  the  river  and  its 
bank. 

Fri^y24.'sJ\r  five  we  continued  our  course)  but,  in  a 
very  short  timC)  were  under  the  necessity  of  applying 
to  the  aid  of  the  linC)  the  stream  being  so  strong  as 
to  render  all  our  attempts  ui  availing  to  stem  it  with 
the  paddles.  We  passed  a  small  river,  on  each  side 
of  which  the  natives  and  Esquimaux  collect  flint. 
The  bank  is  an  high)  steep)  and  soft  rock,  variegated 
with  red)  greeU)  and  yellow  hues.  From  the  conti- 
nual dripping  of  water,  parts  of  it  frequently  fall  and 
break  into  small  stony  flakes  like  slate,  but  not  so 
hafd.  Among  them  are  found  pieces  of  Petroliuniy 
which  bears  a  resemblance  to  yellow  wax,  but  is  more 
friable.  The  English  Chief  informed  mC)  that  rocks 
•f  a  simUai^iund  are  scaltered  about  the  country^  ati 


172  yournal  of  a  Voyage  .  irough  the 


!i!V>  '0 


the  back  of  the  Slave  Lake;,  where  the  Chepewyans 
calllect  c(^per.  ^ 

At  ten,  we  had  an  aft  wind,  and  the  men  who  had 
been  engaged  in  towing,  re-eiubarked.  At  twelve  we 
observed  a  lodg«  on  the  side  of  the  river,  and  its  in- 
habitants running  about  in  great  confusion^or  hurrying 
to  the  woods.  Three  mpn  waited  our  arrival,  though 
they  I'^aiained  at  sonie  distance  from  us,  with  their 
bows  and  arrows  rea<dy  to  be  employed ;  or  at  least, 
that  appeared  to  be  tJie  idea  they  wished  to  convey  to 
us,  by  continually  snapping  the  strings  of  the  former, 
and  the  signs  they  made  to  forbid  our  approach.  TJie 
English  Chief,  whose  language  tliey,  in  some  degree 
understood,  endeavoured  to  remove  their  distrust  of 
us ;  but  till  I  went  to  them  with  a  present  of  beads, 
they  refused  to  have  any  communication  with  us. 

\V*hen  they  first  perceived  our  sail,  they  took  us 
for  the  Esquimaux  Indians,  who  employ  a  sail  hi 
their  canoes.  They  were  suspicious  of  our  designs, 
and  questioned  us  with  a  view  to  obtain  some  know- 
ledge of  them*  On  seeing  us  in  possession  of  some 
of  the  clothes,  bows,  &c.  which  must  hav«  belonged 
ic  some  of  the  Dcguthee  Denees,  or  Quarrellers, 
they  imagined  that  we  had  killed  some  of  them,  and 
were  bearing  away  the  fruits  of  our  victory.  They 
appeared,  indee<l,  to  be  of  the  same  tribe,  though 
they  were  afraid  of  acknowledging  it.  From  their 
questions,  it  was  evident  that  they  had  not  received 
any  notice  of  our  being  in  those  parts. 

They  would  not  acknowledge  that  they  had  any 
women  with  them,  though  we  had  seen  them  i^in-* 
ning  to  the  woods ;  but  pretended  that  they  had  been 
left  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  river,  with 
some  relations,  who  were  engaged  in  killing  rein- 
deer. These  people  had  been  here  but  a  short  time, 
and  their  lodge  was  not  yet  completed  j  nor  had  they 
any  fish  in  a  state  of  preparation  for  their  provision. 
I  ^ave  them  a  knife  and  some  beads  for  jm  horn- wedge 
or  chisel,  with  which  they  split  their  canoe-wood. 
One  of  my  Indians  having  broken  his  paddle,  at- 
tempted to  take  one  of  theirs,  which  was  immediate- 


North'West  Continent  of  America.        IfB 

ly  contested  by  its  owner,  and  on  my  interfering  to 
prevent  this  act  of  injustice,  he  manifested  his  grati- 
tude to  me  on  the  occasion.  We  lost  an  hour  and  a 
half  in  this  conference. 

The  English  Chief  was  during  the  whole  of  the 
time  in  the  woods,  where  some  of  the  hidden  proper- 
ty was  distjo'^ered,  but  the  women  contrived  to  elude 
the  search  v.hat  was  made  after  them.  Some  of  these 
articles  were  purloined,  but  I  was  ignorant  of  this 
circumstance  till  we  had  taken  our  departure,  or  I 
should  certainly  have  given  an  ample  remuneration. 
Our  chief  expressed  his  displeasure  a*  their  running 
away  to  conceal  themselves,  their  property,  and  their 
young  women,  in  very  bitter  terms.  He  said  his 
heart  was  set  against  those  slaves  ;  and  complained 
aloud  o**  his  disappointment  in  coming  so  far  without 
seeing  the  natives,  and  getting  something  from  them. 

We  employed  the  sail  and  the  paddle  since  ten  thi* 
morning,  and  pitched  our  tents  at  seven  in  the  even- 
ing. We  had  no  sooner  encamped  than  we  were  vi- 
sited by  an  Indian  whom  we  had  seen  before,  and 
whose  family  was  at  a  small  distance  up  the  river:  at 
nine  he  left  us.     The  weather  was  clear  and  serene. 

Saturday  25.  We  emuarked  this  morning  at  a 
quarter  past  three,  and  at  seven  we  passed  the  lodge 
of  the  Indian  who  had  visited  us  the  preceding  even- 
ing. There  appeared  to  have  been  more  than  on«  fa- 
mily, and  we  naturally  concluded  that  our  visitor  had 
made  such  an  unfavourable  report  of  us,  as  tn  induce 
his  companions  to  fly  on  our  approach.  Their  fire  was 
not  extinguished,  and  they  had  left  a  considerable 
quantity  of  fish  scatteretl  about  their  dwelling. 

The  weather  was  now  very  sultry ;  but  the  current 
had  relaxed  of  its  force,  so  that  the  paddle  was  suf- 
ficient for  our  progress  during  the  greatest  part  of  the 
day.  The  inland  part  of  the  country  is  mountainous, 
and  the  banks  of  the  river  low,  but  covered  with  wood, 
among  which  is  the  poplar,  but  of  small  growth,  and 
the  first  which  we  had  seen  on  our  return.  A  pigeon 
also  flew  by  us,  and  hares  appeared  to  be  in  great 
plenty.    We  passed  many  Indian  encampments  whioh 

P  2 


174}  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


T 


we  did  not  see  in  our  passage  down  the  river.  About 
seven  the  sky,  to  the  westward,  became  of  a  steel- 
blue  colour,  with  lightning  and  thunder.  We  ac- 
cordingly landed  to  'irepare  ourselves  against  tiie 
coming  storm;  but  before  we  could  erect  our  tents, 
it  came  on  with  such  violence,  that  we  expected  it  to 
carry  every  thing  before  it.  The  ridge-pole  of  my 
tent  was  broken  in  the  middle,  where  it  was  sound, 
and  nine  inches  and  an  half  in  circumference  ;  and 
we  were  obliged  to  throw  ourselves  flat  on  the  ground 
to  escape  being  wounded  by  the  stones  that  were  hurl- 
ed about  in  the  air  like  sand.  The  violence  of  the 
storm,  however,  subsided  in  a  short  time,  but  left 
the  sky  overcast  with  the  appearance  of  rain. 

Sunday  26.  It  rained  from  the  preceding  evening 
to  tjiis  morning,  when  we  embarked  at  foiir  o'clock. 
At  eight  we  landed  at  three  large  Indian  lodges. 
Their  inhabitants,  who  were  asleep,  expressed  un- 
common alarm  and  agitation  when  they  were  awak- 
ened by  us,  though  most  of  them  had  seen  us  before. 
Their  habitations  were  crowded  with  fish,  hanging  to 
dry  in  every  part ;  but  as  we  wanted  some  for  pre- 
sent use,  we  sent  their  young  men  to  visit  the  nets, 
and  they  returned  with  abundance  of  large  white  fish; 
to  which  the  name  has  been  given  of  fioiason  inconnu  ; 
some  of  a  round  shape,  and  green  colour;  and  a  few 
white  ones;  all  which  were  very  agi-eeable  food. 
Some  beads,  and  a  few  other  trifles,  were  gratefully 
received  in  return.  These  people  are  very  fond  of 
iron-work  of  any  kind,  and  my  men  purchased  seve- 
ral of  their  arJcles  for  small  pieces  of  tin. 

There  were  five  or  six  persons  whom  we  had  not 
seen  before ;  and  among  them  was  a  Dog-rib  Indian, 
whom  some  private  quarrel  had  driven  from  his  coun- 
try. The  English  Chief  understood  him  as  well  as 
one  of  his  own  nation,  and  gave  the  following  account 
of  their  conversation : — 

He  had  been  informed  by  the  people  with  whom  he 
now  lives,  the  Hare  Indians,  that  there  is  another  ri- 
ver on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains  to  the  south- 
west, which  falls  into  the  BdhouUay  Tocy  or  White- 


Hotth-West  Continent  of  America*        175 


inconnu 


man's  Lake,  in  condparison  of  which  that  on  whose 
banks  we  then  were,  was  but  a  small  stream  ;  that 
tl\e  natives  were  very  large,  and  very  wicked,  and 
kill  common  men  wit  a  their  eyes;  that  they  make 
canoes  Urger  than  ou/s  ;  that  those  who  inhabit  the 
entrance  of  it  kill  a  kind  of  beaver,  the  skin  of  which 
is  almost  red  ;  and  that  large  canoes  often  frequent  it. 
As  there  is  no  known  communication  by  water  with 
this  river,  the  natives  who  saw  it  went  over  the 
mountains. 

As  he  mentioned  that  there  were  some  beavers  in 
this  part  of  the  country,  I  iold  him  to  hunt  it,  and  de- 
sire the  others  to  do  the  same,  as  well  as  the  martins, 
foxes,  beaver-eater,  or  wolvereen,  See.  which  they 
might  carry  to  barter  for  iron  with  his  own  nation, 
who  are  supplied  with  goods  by  us,  near  their  co'  - 
try.  He  was  anxious  to  know  whether  we  should  re 
turn  that  way  :  at  the  same  time  he  informed  us  that 
we  should  see  but  few  of  the  natives  along  the  river, 
as  all  the  young  men  were  engaged  in  killing  rei'">- 
delr,  near  the  Esquimaux  Lake,  which,  he  also  said, 
was  at  no  great  distance.  The  latter  he  represented 
as  very  treacherous,  and  added,  that  they  had  killed  one 
of  his  people.  He  told  us,  likewise,  that  someplan 
of  revenge  was  meditating,  unless  the  offending  party 
paid  a  sufficient  price  for  the  b.'Jy  of  the  murdered 
person. 

My  Indians  were  very  anxious  to  poLsess  them- 
selves of  a  woman  that  was  with  the  natives,  but  as 
they  were  not  willing  to  part  with  her,  I  interfered, 
to  prevent  her  being  taken  by  force :  indeed  I  was 
obliged  to  exercise  the  utmost  vigilance,  as  the  Indi- 
ans who  accompanied  me  were  ever  ready  to  take 
what  they  could  from  the  natives,  without  making 
them  any  return.  About  tv/elve  we  passed  a  river  of 
some  appearance,  flow;i>g  from  the  eastwartL  One 
of  the  natives  who  followed  us,  called  it  the  Winter 
Hoad  River.  We  did  not  find  the  stream  strong  to- 
day along  the  shore,  as  there  were  many  eddy  cur- 
rentii  5  we  therefore  employed  the  sail  duriny^  som^e 


fu 


tfii  yournalofa  Voyage  through  the 

Iiburs  of  it,  and  went  on  shore  for  tae  night  at  half 
past  seven. 

Monday  27.  The  weather  was  now  fine,  and  we 
renewed  our  voyage  at  half  past  two.  At  seven  we 
landed  where  there  were  three  families,  situated  close 
to  the  rapids.  •  We  found  but  few  people ;  for  as  the 
Indian  who  followed  us  yesterday  had  arrived  here 
before  us,  we  supposed  that  the  greater  part  had  fled, 
on  the  intelligence  which  he  gave  of  our  approach. 
Some  of  these  people  we  had  seun  before,  when  they 
told  us  that  they  had  left  their  property  at  a  lake  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  had  promised  to  fetch  it  before 
our  return ;  but  we  now  found  them  as  unprovided 
as  when  we  left  them.  They  had  plenty  offish,  some 
of  V.  hich  was  packed  in  birch  bark. 

During  the  time  we  remained  with  them,  which 
was  not  mora  than  two  hours,  I  endeavored  to  obtain 
some  additional  intelligence  respecting  the  river 
which  had  been  mentioned  on  the  preceding  day  ; 
when  they  declared  their  total  ignorance  of  it,  but 
from  the  reports  of  others,  as  they  had  never  been 
beyond  the  mountains,  on  the  opposite  side  of  their 
GWn  river  ;  they  had,  however,  been  irf  ^^led  that  it 
was  larger  than  that  which  washed  the  ha  ;ks  where- 
on they  lived,  and  that  its  course  was  towards  the  mid- 
day sun.  They  added,  that  there  were  people  at  a 
small  distance  up  the  river,  who  inhabited  the  op- 
posite mountains,  and  had  lately  descended  from 
them  to  obtain  supplies  of  fish.  These  people 
they  suggested,  must  be  well  acquainted  with  the 
other  river,  which  was  the  object  of  my  inquiry.  I 
engaged  one  of  them,  by  a  bribe  of  some  beads,  to 
describe  the  ciroumjacent  country  upon  the  sand. 
Till?:  singular  map  he  immediately  undertook  to  deli- 
neate, and  ace  ;vdingly  traced  out  a  very  long  point  of 
land  between  the  rivers,  tliough  without  paying  the 
least  atteiilion  to  their  courses,  which  he  represented 
as  runnin[^  into  the  great  lake,  at  the  extremity  of 
which,  as  he  had  beeii  lold  by  the  Indians  of  other 
nations,  there  was  a  Belhoullay  Couin,  or  White 
Man's  Fort.     This  I  took  to  be  Unalascha  Fort,  and 


'f^,!l;l 


'■4jy?*9- 


North-West  ContiriMn*  of  Amtrita,         Iff 

consequently  the  river  to  the  west  to  be  Cook's  River  ; 
and  that  the  body  of  water  or  sea  into  which  this  river 
discharges  itself  at  Wliale  Island,  communicates  with 
Norton  Sound.  I  made  an  advantageous  proposition 
to  this  man  to  accompany  me  acros;i  the  mountains 
to  the  other  river,  but  he  refused  it.  At  the  same 
lime  he  recommended  me  to  tlie  people  already  men- 
tioned, who  were  fishing  in  the  neighborhood,  as  bet- 
ter qualified  to  assist  me  in  the  undertaking  which  I 
had  proposed. 

One  of  this  small  company  of  natives  was  griev- 
ously afflicted  with  ulcers  in  his  back  ;  and  the  only 
attention  which  was  paid  to  his  miserable  condition,  as 
id  •  at  least  as  we  could  discover,  proceeded  from  a 
.a man,  who  carefully  employed  a  bvmch  of  feathers 
\r,  preventing  the  flies  from  settling  upon  his  sores. 

At  ten  this  morning,  we  landed  near  the  lodges 
which  had  already  been  mentioned  to  us,  and  1  or* 
dered  my  people  to  make  preparation  for  passing  the 
remainder  of  the  day  here,  in  order  to  obtain  that  fa- 
miliarity with  the  natives  which  might  induce  them  to 
a^Ford  me,  without  reserve,  the  information  that  1 
should  require  from  them.  This  object,  however, 
was  in  danger  of  being  altogether  frustrated  by  a  mis- 
understanding that  had  taken  place  between  the  na- 
tives and  my  young  Indians,  who  were  already  arriv- 
ed there.  Before  the  latter  could  disembarli,  the  for- 
mer seized  the  canoe,  and  dragged  it  on  shore,  and 
in  this  act  of  violence  the  boat  was  broken,  from  the 
weight  of  the  persons  in  it.  This  insult  was  on  the 
point  of  being  seriously  revenged,  when  I  arrived  to 
prevent  the  conse([uence  of  such  a  disposition.  The 
vii iation  of  the  compass  was  about  twenty-nine  der 
grees  to  the  east. 

At  four  in  the  afiernoon,  I  ordered  my  interpreter 
to  harangue  the  natives,  assembled  in  council  ;  but  his 
long  discourse  obtained  little  satisfactory  intelligence 
from  them.  Their  acc".  it  of  the  river  to  the  west- 
wai'd,  was  si«j?iarto  tli^u  "k  ich  we  ha<l  already  re- 
ceived; and  their  de^cripi';  ♦  of  the  inhabitants  of 
that   country,  Nvas  stiU  uiore  .^Ijsurd  and  ridiculous*. 


t^i- 


A' 


1  y«  yournal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

They  represented  them  as  being  of  a  gigantic  sta- 
ture, and  adorned  with  wings,  which,  however,  they 
never  employed  in  flying :  that  they  fed  on  large  birds, 
which  they  killed  with  the  greatest  ease,  though  com- 
mon men  would  be  certain  victims  of  their  voracity 
if  they  ventured  to  approach  them.  They  also  des- 
cribed the  people  that  inhabited  the  mouth  of  the  ri- 
ver as  posse ssfnjljjjlibe  extraordinary  power  of  killing 
with  theireyes,  and  devouring  a  large  beaver  at  a  single 
meal.  They  added,  that  canoes  of  very  large  dimen- 
sions visited  that  place.  They  did  not,  however,  relate 
these  strange  circumstances  frqm  their  own  know- 
ledge, but  on  the  reports  of  other  tribes,  as  they  them- 
selves never  ventured  to  proceed  beyond  the  first 
liiountains,  where  they  went  in  search  of  the  small» 
white  buftaklis,  as  the  inhabitants  of  the  other  side 
endeavor  to  kill  them  whenever  they  meet*  They 
likewise  mentioned  that  the  sources  of  those  streams 
which  are  tributriry  to  both  the  great  rivers,  are  sepa- 
rated by  the  mountains.  It  appeared  to  us,  however, 
that  these  people  knew  more  about  the  country  than 
me,  they  chose  to  comroupjcate,  or  at  least  reached 
as  the  interpreter,  who  had  long  been  tired  of  the 
voyage,  might  cont?J  such  a  part  cf  their  communi- 
cations as,  in  his  opinion,  would  induce  me  to  follow 
new  routes,  or  extend  my  excursions.  No  sooner 
was  the  couferen;e  concluded,  than  they  beg^n  to 
dance,  which  m  their  favorite,  and,  ejxept  jumping, 
their  only  musv  rvent.  In  this  pj^.i^time  old  and 
young,  ma  Hi;  lud  ittOdie,  continued  theii"  exertions  till 
ti\eir  streng  Jt  wiH  exitausted.  This  exercise  was  ac- 
companied by  lou'l  in  Vations  of  the  various  noises 
produced  by  the  rein-tit  er,  the  bear,  and  the  wolf. 

When  they  had  finished  their  antics,  I  desired  the 
English  Chief  to  r.  new  the  former  subjects ;  which  he 
4id  witliout  success.  I  therefore  assumed  an  angry 
air,  exp. esscd  my  suspicions  that  they  withheld  their 
information,  and  concluded  with  a  menace,  that  if  they 
did  not  give  me  all  the  satisfaction  in  their  power,  1 
would  force  one  of  them  along  with  me  to-morrow,  to 
point  out  the  road  to  the  other  river.    On  this  declar- 


antic  sta-^ 
ever,  they 
irge  birdS) 
3Ugh  com- 
r  voracity 
'  also  des- 
1  of  the  ri- 
of  killing 
at  a  single 
ge  dimen- 
ver,  relate 
iwn  know- 
they  them- 
1  the  first 
the  smally 
other  side 
!et.    They 
se  streams 
,,  are  sepa- 
,  however, 
uniry  than 
LSt  reached 
ired  of  the 
communi- 
e  to  follow 
No  sooner 
J  beg^n  to 
jumping, 
e   old  and 
certloF.s  till 
ise  was  ac- 
ous  noises 
le  wolf, 
desired  the 
;  which  he 
I  an  angry 
hheld  their 
that  if  they 
ir  power,  I 
morrow,  to 
this  declar- 


i|g|l  with  me*    Nor 
a^^  the  solicitation 


Korth^West  Continent  of  Amtrita*        If 9 

ation,  they  all,  at  one  and  the  same  moment,  became 
sick,  and  answered  in  a  very  faint  tone,  that  they  knsvr 
no  more  than  they  had  already  communicated,  and 
thai  they  should  die  if  I  took  any  of  them  away .  They 
began  to  persuade  my  interpreter  to  remain  with  them 
as  they  loved  him  as  well  as  they  did  themselves,  and 
that  he  would  be  killed  if  he  contini 
did  this  proposition,  aided  as  it  was 
of  the  women,  fail  of  producing  a  considerable  ef- 
fect upon  him,  chough  he  endeavoured  to  conceal  it 
from  me. 

I  now  found  that  it  would  be  fruitless  for  me  to  ex- 
pect any  accounts  of  the  country,  or  the  other  great 
river,  till  I  got  to  the  river  of  the  Bear  Lake,  where  I 
expected  to  find  some  of  the  natives,  who  promised 
to  wait  for  us  there.  These  people  had  actually  men- 
tioned this  river  to  me  when  we  passed  them,  but  I, 
then  paid  no  attention  to  that  circumstance,  as  I  ima- 
gined it  to  be  either  a  misunderstanding  of  my  inter- 
preter, or  that  it  was  an  invention  which,  with  their 
other  lies,  might  tend  to  prevent  me  from  proceeding 
down  their  river. 

We  were  plentiiuUy  supplied  with  fishtm^as  well  dry 
as  fresh,  by  thc-e  people ;  they  also  gathered  as  ma- 
ny hurtle  berries  as  we  chose,  for  which  we  paid  with 
the  usuul  articles  of  beads,  awls,  knives,  and  tin.     I 
purchased  a  few  beaver- skins  of  them,  which,  accord- 
ing to  th4:ir  accounts,  are  not  very  numerous  in  this 
country  4  and  th^.l  they  do  not  abound  in  moose-deer 
and  bufiEklocR.    They  were  alarmed  for  some  of  theiir 
young  men,  vho  were  killing  geese  higher  up  the  ri- 
ver, and   untreated  us  to  do  them  no  harm.    About 
sun-set  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  shooting  one  of 
their  dogs,  as  we  could  not  keep  those  animals  from 
our  baggage.     It  was  in  vain  that  I  had  remonstrated 
on  this  subject,  so  that  I  was  obliged  to  commit  the 
act  which  has  just  been  mentioned.     When  these  peo- 
ple heard  the  report  of  the  pistol,   and  saw  the  dog 
dead,  they   were  seized   with  a  very  general  alarm, 
and  the  women  took  their  children  on  their  backs  and 
ran  lato  the  woods.    I  ordered  the  cause  of  this  act 


tBO  yournalofa  Voyage  through  the 

of  seYcrity  to  be  explained,  iirith  the  assur&nce  that  ho 
wjury  would  be  oflfertd  to  themselves.  The  woman) 
however,  to  whom  the  dog  belonged,  was  very  much 
aSectedr  and  declared  that  the  loss  of  five  children, 
during  the  preceding  winter,  had  not  affected  her  so 
much  as  the  death  of  this  animal.  But  her'grief  was 
not  of  very  lon^Jbration ;  and  a.few  beads,  ^e.  soon 
assuaged  her  ^(^row.  But  as  they  can,  will^out  dif- 
ficulty, get  rid  of  their  affliction,  they  can  with  equal 
case  assume  it,  and  feign  sickness  if  it  be  necessary 
with  the  same  verbatility.  When  we  arrived  f.his 
morning,  we  found  the  women  in  tears,  from  an  ap- 
prehension that  we  were  come  to  take  them  away. 
To  the  eye  of  an  European  they  certainly  were  ob- 
jects of  disgust ;  but  tliere  were  those  among  my  par* 
ty  who  «)b8erved  some  hidden  charms  in  these  females 
which  rendered  them  objects  of  clcsii'e,  and  means 
were  found,  I  believe,  that  very  soon  dissipated  their 
alarms  and  subdued  their  coyness. 

On  the  i?pper  part  of  the  beach,  liquorice  grew  in 
great  abunvitmce,  and  it  was  now  in  blossom.  I  pul- 
led up  some  of  the  roots,  which  were  large  and  long ; 
but  the  nalpves  were  ignorant  of  its  qualities,  and 
considered  i£  as  a  weed  of  no  use  or  value. 

Tuesday  28.  » At  four  this  morning  I  ordered  my 
people  to  prepare  for  our  departure  ;  and  while  they 
were  loading  die  canoe,  I  went  with  the  English  Chief 
to  vi»i«  the  lodges,  but  the  greater  part  of  their  inha- 
bitsfflts  had  quitted  them  during  the  night,  and  those 
that  remained  pretended  sickness,  and  refVised  to  rise. 
When,  however,  they  were  convinced  that  we  did  not 
mean  to  take  any  of  them  with  us,  their  sickness 
abandoned  them,  and  when  we  had  embarked,  they 
came  forth  from  their  huts,  to  desire  that  we  would 
visit  their  nets,  which  were  at  a  small  di«tance  up  tlie 
river,  and  take  all  the  fish  we  might  find  m  them. 
We  accordingly  avaikd  ourselves  of  this  permission, 
and  took  as  many  as  wr**^  necessary  for  our  own 
supply. 

We  landed  siiortly  after  where  there  were  two  more 
lodged,  which  were  lull  of  fish,  but  without  any  vakt' 


North-Weii  Continent  of  America*        181 

bitanti,  who  were  probably  with  the  natives  whom  we 
had  just  left.  My  Indians,  in  rumaging  these  places, 
found  several  articles  which  they  proposed  to  take  ; 
I  therefore  gave  beads  and  awls,  to  be  left  as  the  pur- 
chase of  them  ;  but  this  act  of  justice  they  were  not 
able  to  comprehend,  as  the  people  themselves  were 
not  present.  I  took  up  a  net  and  left  a  large  knife  in 
the  place  of  it.  It  was  about  fouf^fethoms  long,  and 
thirty-two  meshes  in  depth  :  these  nets  are  much 
move  convenient  to  set  in  the  eddy  current  than  our 
long  ones.  This  is  the  place  that  the  Indians  call  a 
rapid,  though  we  went  up  it  all  the  way  with  the 
paddle  ;  so  that  the  current  could  not  be  so  strong 
here,  as  in  many  other  parts  of  the  river;  indeed,  if 
it  were  so,  the  difficulty  of  towing  would  be  almost  in* 
superable,  as  in  many  parts  the  rocks,  which  are  of  a 
great  height,  and  rather  project  over  the  watar,  leave 
no  shore  between  them  and  the  stream.  These  pre- 
cipices abound  in  swallows'  nests.  The  weather  was 
now  very  sultry,  and  at  eleven  w^  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  landing  to  gum  our  canoe. 

In  about  an  hour  we  set  forward,  and  at  one  in  the 
afternoon,  went  on  shore  at  a  fire,  which  we  supposed 
to  have  been  kindled  by  the  young  men,  who  as  we 
had  been  already  informed,  were  hunting  geese.  Our 
hunters  found  their  canoe,  and  the  fowl  they  had  got, 
secreted  in  the  woods;  and  soon  after,  the  people 
themselves,  whom  they  brought  to  the  water-side. 
Out  of  two  hundred  geese  we  picked  thirty-six  which 
were  eatable ;  the  rest.  M'ere  putrid  and  emitted  an 
horrid  stench.  They  had  been  kiUed  some  time  with- 
out having  been  gutted,  and  in  this  state  of  loathsome 
rcUenness,  we  have  every  reason  to  suppose  they  are 
eaten  by  the  natives.  We  paid  for  those  which  we 
had  taken,  and  departed.  At  sever  in  the  evening, 
the  weathejp  became  cloudy  and  overcast ;  at  eight  we 
encamped  ;  at  nine,  it  began  to  thunder  with  great 
^ioJence :  an  heavy  rain  succeeded,  accompanied  with 
an  hurricane,  that  blew  down  our  tents,  and  threaten- 
ed to  carry  away  the  canoe,  which  had  been  fastened  to 


tB2  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


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IK 


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tottit   trees  with  a  cod-line.     The  storm  lasted  two 
hours,  and  deluged  us  with  wet. 

Wednesday  29.  Yesterday  the  weather  was  clou- 
dy,  and  the  heat  insupportable ;  and  now  we  could 
not  put  on  clothes  enough  to  keep  us  warm.  We  em- 
barked at  a  quarter  past  four,  with  an  aft  v/ind,  which 
drove  us  on  at  a  g^reat  rate,  though  the  current  is  very 
strong.  At  ten,  we  came  to  the  other  rapid,  Ivhich 
we  got  up  with  the  line  on  the  west  side,  where  we 
found  it  much  stronger  than  when  wc  went  down; 
the  water  had  also  fallen  at  least  five  feet  since  that 
time,  so  that  sevieral  shoals  aypcared  in  the  river  which 
we  had  not  seen  before.  One  of  my  hunters  narrow- 
ly escaped  being  drowned  in  crossing  a  river  that  falls 
in  from  the  westward,  and  is  the  most  considerable, 
except  the  mountain  river,  that  flows  in  this  direction. 
We  had  strong  northerly  and  cold  wind  throughout 
the  whole  of  the  day,  and  took  our  station  for  the 
night  at  a  quarter  past  eight.  We  killed  a  goose,  and 
caught  some  young  ones* 

Thursday  30.  We  renewed  our  voyage  at  four  this 
morning,  after  a  very  rainy  night.  The  weather  was 
cloudy,  but  ^he  cold  had  moderated,  and  the  wind  was 
north-west.  We  were  enabled  to  employ  the  sail 
during  part  of  the  day,  ^nd  encamped  at  about  se- 
ven in  the  evening.  We  killed  eleven  old  geese, 
and  forty  young  ones,  which  had  just  began  to  fly. 
The  English  Chief  wa^  v^ry  ijiuch  irritated  against 
one  of  his  young  men :  that  jealousy  occasioned  this 
uneasiness,  and  that  it  was  not  without  very  sufficient 
cause,  was  all  I  could  discover.  For  the  last  two  or 
three  days  we  had  eaten  the  ^quorice-root,  of  which 
there  is  great  abundance  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 
We  found  it  a  powerful  astringent, 

Friday  o\.  The  rain  was  continual  throughout 
the  night,  ?ind  did  not  subside  till  nine  this  morning, 
%vhen  we  renewexl  our  progrep*.  The  \vtnd  and  wea- 
ther the  same  as  yesterday.  About  three  inthe  after- 
noon it  cleared  up,  and  the  wind  died  uway,  when  it 
became  warm.  At  five  the  wind  veered  to  the  east, 
and  brought  cold  along  witji  it.    There  were  plenty 


North-'lVcit  Continent  of  America,.        183 


lasted  two 

was  clou- 
we  could 
We  em- 
,'ind,  which 
rent  is  very 
pid,  "Vfhich 
where  we 
ent  down; 
.  Bin.ce  that 
rivcrwhich 
ers  narrow- 
er that  falls 
nisiderable, 
s  direction, 
throughout 
ion  for  the 
I  goose,  and 

at  four  this 
i^eather  was 
le  wind  was 
oy  the  Rail 
t  about  sc- 
old geese, 
egun  to  fly. 
ted  against 
aisioned  this 
ry  siifficieht 
last  two  or 
>t,  of  which 
f  the   river. 

throughout 
is  morning, 
tid  and  wea- 
in*the  after- 
ray,  when  it 
to  the  east, 
were  plenty 


of  hurtle  berries,  raspberries,  and  a  berry  called  Po/r/', 
which  grows  in  the  greatest  abundance.  We  were  ve- 
ry much  impeded  in  our  way  by  shoals  of  sand  and 
small  sto  les,  which  render  the  water  shallow  at  a 
distance  from  the  shore.  In  other  places  the  bank 
of  the  river  is  lofty ;  it  is  formed  of  black  earth  and 
sand,  and,  as  it  is  continually  fallings  displayed  to- us, 
in  some  parts,  a  face  of  solid  ice,  to  within  a  foot  of 
the  surface.  We  finished  this  day's  voyage  at  a 
quarter  before  eight,  and  in  the  course  of  it  killed  se- 
ven geese. 

We  now  had  recourse  to  our  corn,  for  we  had  only 
consumed  three  days  of  our  original  provision  since 
we  began  to  mount  the  current.  It  was  my  intention 
to  have  ascended  the  river  on  the  south  side  from  the 
last  rapid,  to  discover  if  there  were  any  rivers  of  con- 
sequence that  flow  from  the  westward  :  but  the  sand- 
banks were  so  numeious,  and  the  current  so  strong, 
that  I  was  Qompelled  to  traverse  to  the  opposite  side, 
where  the  eddy  currents  are  very  frequent,  which 
};ave  us  an  opportiynity  of  setting  our  nets,  and  niak- 
ing  much  more  head-way.  ^^ 

I.I'  i|iii'     I  I II    I  II       I      I 

CHAPTER  VIL 

Vpvaje  continued.  Suspect  the  integrity  of  the  interpreter.  Stars  visible. 
Springs  of  mineral  water,  and  lumps  of  iron  ore.  Arrive  at  the  river  of  the 
bear  Luke.  Coal  mine  in  a  state  of  combustion.  Water  of  the  river  dimi- 
nishtid.  Continue  to  see  Indian  encampments,  and  kill  gce»«..  &c.  Hunting 
excursions.  A  caQoe  found  on  the  edge  of  a  wood.  Attempt  to  ascend  a 
mountain.  Account  of  the  passage  to  it.  See  a  few  of  thjenanvec  Kill 
a  ln-aver  and  some  hares.  Design  of  the  English  chief.  Kill  a  wolf.  Cha.  jea- 
blt  state  of  the  weather.  Recover  the  Pemmican,  which  had  been  hidden  in 
an  island.  Natively  at  our  approach.  Meet  with  dogs.  Altercation  with 
the  Enjjlish  chief.  Account  of  the  article!;  left  by  tlie  fugitives.  Shoals  of  the 
river  covered  with  saline  matter.  Encamp  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the 
mountain.  The  ground  on  tire  on  each  side  of  it.  Continue  to  see  encaiop- 
ments  of  the  natives.  Various  kinds  of  berries.  Kill  geese,  swans,  fee.  &c. 
&C.  Corrodine  qualitv  of  the  water.  Weatlier  changeable.  Reach  the  en- 
trance of  tne  Slave  LaHp.  Dangers  encountered  on  entering^  it.  Caught  pike 
and  trout.  Met  M.  Le  Roux  on  the  lake.  Further  circumstances  till  oui'  le- 
tMrn  to  Fori  Chepewy^n.    Coaclusioo  of  the  voyage. 

AiH'Ust,  1789.1  WJ  ,        ,       , 

Saturday  Lj  YV  E  embarked  at  three  this  morning,  the 
weather  bemg  clear  and  cold,  with  the  wind  at  south- 
east.    At  three  in  the  afternoon  we  traversed  aud 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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iB4  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


Hxi^tA  to  take  the  c^oe  in  tow ;  here  was  aA  en<> 
cftmpment  of  the  nativeS)  which  we  had  reason  to  sup- 
pose they  had  quitted  the  preceding  day.  At  five  we 
perceived  a  family,  consisting  of  a  man,  two  women, 
and  as  many  children,  stationed  by  the  side  of  the  wa- 
ter, whom  we  had  not  seen  before.  They  informed 
us,  that  they  had  but  few  fish,  and  that  none  of  their 
friends  were  in  the  neighborhood,  except  the  inhabi- 
tants of  one  lodge  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and 

man  who  belonged  to  them,  and  who  was  now  occu- 
pied in  hunting.  I  now  found  my  interpreter  very 
unwilling  to  ask  such  questions  as  were  dictated  to 
him,  from  the  apprehension,  as  I  imagined,  that  I 
might  obtain  such  intelligence  as  would  prevent  him 
from  seeing  Athabasca  this  season.  We  left  him  with 
the  Indian,  and  pitched  our  tents  at  the  same  place 
where  we  had  passed  the  night  on  the  fifth  of  last 
month.  The  English  Chief  came  along  with  the  In- 
dian to  our  fire ;  and  the  latter  informed  us  that  the 
native  who  went  doM'n  pail  of  the  river  with  iis  had^ 
passed  there,  and  that  we  should  meet  with  three 
lodges  of  his  tribe  above  the  river  of  the  Bear  Lake. 
Of  th6  river  to  the  westward  he  knew  nothing  but  from 
the  relation  of  others.  This  was  the  fivst  night  since 
our  departure  from  Athabasca,  when  it  was  suffici- 
t^itly  dark  to  render  the  stars  visible. 

r^unday,  2.  We  set  off  at  three  this  morning  with 
the'  towing-line.  I  walked  with  my  Indians,  as  they 
went  faster  than  the  canoe,  and  particularly  as  I  sus- 
pected that  they  wanted  to  arrive  at  the  huts  of  the 
natives  before  me.  In  our  way,  I  observed  several 
small  springs  of  mineral  water  running  from  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  and  along  the  beach  I  saw  several 
himps  of  iron  ore.  When  we  came  to  the  river  of 
the  Bear  Lake,  I  ordered  one  of  the  young  Indians 
to  wait  for  my  canoe,  and  I  took  my  place  in  their 
small  canoe,  Tfcis  river  is  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  broad  at  this  place,  the  water  clear  and  of 
a  greenish  colour.  When  I  landed  on  the  opposite 
shore,  I  discovered  that  the  natives  had  been  there  very 
lately  from  the  print  of  their  feet  in  the  sand.     V\'<5 


ly 


Ni^t^'JVf^t  Continent  tf  4ff^^'^ica,        lf| 

contiimed  walking  till  iive  in  the  afternoon,  when  we 
saw  several  smokes  alon;^  the  shore*  As  we  natural* 
ly  concludedi'  that  the^e  were  certain  indication^ 
where  we  should  meet  the  natives  who  wer^  the  ob- 
jects of  our  search,  we  quickened  our  pace  ;  but,  in  our 
progress,  experienced  a  very  sulphureous  smell,  and 
at  length  discovered  that  the  whole  bank  was  on  fire 
for  a  very  considerable  distance*  It  proved  to  be  a 
coal  mine,  to  which  the  fire  had  communicated  from 
an  old  Indian  encampment.  The  beach  was  covered 
with  C((>als,  and  the  English  chief  gathered  some  of 
the  softest  he  could  find,  as  a  black  dye  ;  it  being  th^  ' 
mineral,  'as  he  informed  ipe,  with  which  the  natives 
render  their  quills  black. 

Here  we  waited  for  the  large  canoe,  which  arrived 
an  hou^  after  us.  At  half  past  ten  we  sjaw  several 
Indian  marks,  which  consisted  of  piecss  of  bark  fixed 
on  poles,  and  pointing  to  the  wood%  opposite  to 
which  is  an  old  beaten  road,  that  bore  'tlie  marks  of 
being  lately  frequented  ;  the  beach  also  was  covered 
with  tracks.  At  a  smaU  distance  were  the  poles  of 
live  lodges  standing  ;  where  we  landed  and  unloaded 
our  canoe.  I  then  dispatched  one  of  my  men  |md 
two  young  Indians  to  see  if  they  could  find  any  na- 
tives withm  a  day's  march  of  us.  I  wanted  the  Eng- 
lish chief  to  go,  but  he  pleaded  fatigue,  and  vthat  it 
would  be  of  no  use.  This  was  the  .first  time  he  had 
refused  ta  comply  with  my  desire,  and  jealousy,  I  be- 
lieve,  wa$  the  cause  of  it  m  the  present  instance  s 
though  I  had  taken  every  precaution  Chat  he  should 
not  have  cause  to  be  jealous  of  the  Canadian^.  There 
was  not,  at.  this  time,  tlie  least  appearance  of  sn«w 
on  the  opposite  mountains,  though  they  were  almost^ 
covered  with  it  when  we  passed  before.  Set  two 
nets,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night  the  men  and  In- 
dians returned.  They  had  b;een  to  their  first  en- 
campmentj  where  there  were  four  fires,  and  which 
had  been  quitted  a  short  time  before  ;  so  that  they 
were  obliged  to  make  the  circuit  of  several  small 
Jiakes,  which  the  natives  cross  with  their  eanoes«- 
This  encampment  was  on  the  borders  of  a  lake  which 


166  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

was  too  large  for  them  to  venture  round  it,  so  that 
they  did  not  proceed  any  further.  They  saw  several 
beavers  and  beaver  lodges  in  those  small  lakes.  They 
killed  one  of  these  animals  whose  fur  began  to  get 
long,  a  sure  indication  that  the  fall  of  ^the  year  ap- 
proaches. They  also  saw  many  old  tracks  of  the  moose 
and  rein-deer.  This  is  the  time  when  the  rein-deer 
leave  the  plains  to  come  to  the  woods,  as  the  mus- 
quitoes  begin  to  disappear  ;  I,  therefore,  apprehend- 
ed that  we  should  not  find  a  single  Indian  on  the  ri- 
ver side,  as  they  would  be  in  or  about  the  mountains 
setting  snares  to  take  them. 

Monday^  3.  We  proceeded  with  a  strong  westerly 
wind,  at  four  this  morning,  the  weather  being  cloud^ 
and  cold.  At  twelve  it  cleared  up  and  became  fine  : 
the  current  also  increased.  The  water  had  fallen  so 
much  since  our  passage  down  the  river,  that  here,  as 
in  other  places,  we  discovered  many  shoals  which 
were  not  then  visible.  We  killed  several  geese  of  a 
larger  size  than  those  which  we  had  generally  seen. 
Several  Indian  encampments  were  seen  along  the  ri- 
ver, and  we  landed  at  eight  for  the  night. 
•  Tuesday^  4.  At  four  in  the  morning  we  renewed 
our  course,  when  it  was  fine  and  calm.  The  night 
had  been  cold  and  a  very  heavy  dew  had  fallen.  At 
nino  we  were  obliged  to  land  in  order  to  gum  the  ca- 
noe, when  the  weather  became  extremely  warm. 
Numerous  tracks  of  rein-deer  appeared  oathe  lude  of 
the  river.  At  half  past  five  we  took  our  station  for 
the  night  and  set  the  nets.  The  current  was  very 
strong  all  day,  and  we  found  it  very  difficult  to  walk 
along  the  beach,  from  the  large  stones  which  were 
scattered  over  it. « 

Wednesday,  5.  We  raised  our  nets,  but  had  not 
the  good  fortune  to  take  a  single  fish.  The  water 
was  now  beconve  so  low  that  the  eddy  currents  would 
not  admit  of  setiing  them.  The  current  had  not  re- 
laxed its  strength  ;  and  the  difficulty  of  walking  along 
the  beach  was  continued.  The  air  was  now  become 
80  cold,  that  our  exercise,  violent  as  it  was,  scarce 
kept  us  warm.     We  passed  several  points  which  we 


North'West  Continent  of  America,        isy 

should  not  have  accomplished,  if  the  canoe  had  been 
loaded.  We  were  very  much  fatigued,  and  at  six 
were  glad  to  conclude  our  toilsome  march.  The  In- 
dians killed  two  geese.  The  women  who  did  not 
quit  the  canoe,  were  continually  employed  in  making 
shoes  of  moose-skin,  for  the  men,  as  a  pair  did  not 
last  more  than  a  day. 

Thursday^  6.  The  rain  prevented  us  from  pro- 
ceeding till  half  past  six,  when  we  had  a  strong  aft 
wind,  which,  aided  by  the  paddles,  drove  us  on  at  a 
great  rate.  We  encamped  at  six  to  wait  for  our  In- 
dians, whom  we  had  not  seen  since  the  mornings 
and  at  half  past  seven  they  arrived  very  much  dissa<- 
tisfied  with  their  day's  journey.  Two  days  had  now 
elapsed  since  we  had  seen  the  least  appearance  of  lib- 
dian  habitations. 

Friday^  7.     We  embarked  at  half  past  three,   and 
soonr  after  perceived  •  two  rein-deer  on  the  beach  be- 
fore us.     We  accordingly  checked  our  course  ;  but 
our  Indians,  in  contending  who  should  be  the  first  to 
get  near  these  animals,  alarmed  and  lost  them.    We, 
however,   killed  a   female    rein-deer,  and  from   the 
wounds   in  her  hind-legs,  it  was  supposed  she  had 
been  pursued  by  wolves,  who  had  devoured  her  young 
one  :  her  udder  was  full  of  milk,  and  one  of  the  young 
Indians  poured  it  among  some  boiled  corn,  whi^h  he 
ate  with  great  delight,  esteeming  it  a  very  delicious 
food.     At  fijre  in  the  afternoon  we  saw  an  animal  run- 
ning along  the  beach,  but  could  not  determine,  whe- 
ther  it  wasa  grey  fox  or  a  dog.     In  a  short  time  we 
M^ent  ashore  for  the  night,  at  the  entrance  of  a  small 
river,  as  I  thought  there  might  be  some  natives  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  plaqe.  I  ordered  my  hunters  to  put 
their  fuzees  in  order,and  gave  them  ammunition  to  pro- 
ceed on  an  hunting  party  the  next  day ;  they  were 
also  instructedtodiscover  if  there  were  any  natives  in 
the  neighboring  mountains.     I  found  a  small  canoe  at 
i\\t  edge  of  the  woods,  which  contained  a  paddle  and  a 
bow:  ithad  b(sen  repaired  this  spring,  and  the  workf 
manship  of  the  bark  excelled  any  that  I  had  yet  seen. 
We  saw  several  encampments  in  the  course  of  the  day. 


t88  yonrnaioftt  V^t^age  through  the 

The  current  of  the  river  was  very  strong)  and  along 
the  points  equal  to  rapids. 

Saturday  8.  The  rain  was  very  violent  throughout 
the  night,  and  continued  till  the  afternoon  of  this  day, 
when  the  weather  began  to  clear,  with  a  strong,  cold, 
westerly  wind.  At  three  the  Indians  proceeded  on 
the  hunting  ejtpedition,  and  at  eight  they  returned 
without  having  met  with  the  least  success ;  thoug^h 
they  saw  numerous  tracks  of  the  rein-deer.  They 
car^e  to  an  old  beaten  road,  which  one  of  them  fol- 
lowed for  some  time ;  but  did  not  appear  to  have  been 
lately  frequented.  The  rain  now  returned  and  conti- 
nued till  the  morning. 

Sunday  9.  We  renewed  our  voyage  at  half  past 
three,  the  weather  being  cold  and  cloudy  ;  but  at  ten 
it  became  clear  and  moderate.  We  saw  another  ca* 
noe  at  the  outside  of  the  wood,  and  one  of  the  Indians 
killed  a  dog,  which  was  in  a  meagre,  emaciated  con-f 
dition.  We  perceived  various  places  where  the  na- 
tives had  made  their  fires ;  for  these  people  reside 
but  a  short  time  near  the  river,  and  remove  from  ouj? 
bank  to  the  other,  as  it  suits  their  purposes.  We 
saw  a  path  which  was  connected  with  another  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  water  had  risen  conside- 
rably since  last  night,  and  there  had  been  a  strong  cur* 
rent  throughout  the  day.  At  seven  we  made  to  the 
shore  and  encamped. 

Monday  10.  At  three  tMs  morning  w&  returned  to 
eur  canoe ;  the  weather  fine  and  clear.,  with  a  light  wind 
from  the  south*  east.  The  Indians  were  before  us  in 
pursuit  of  game.  At  ten  we  landed  opposite  to  the 
mountains  which  we  had- passed  on  the  second  of  the 
last  month,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  variation  of  the 
compass  at  this  place ;  but  this  was  accomplished  in  a 
very  imperfect  manner,  as  I  could  not  depend  on  my 
watch.  One  of  the  hunters  joined  us  here,  fatigued 
and  unsuccessful.  As  these  mountains  are  the  last  of 
any  considerable  magnitude  on  the  soutii-west  side  of 
tlie  river,  I  ordered  my  men  to  cross  to  that  side  of 
it,  that  I  might  ascend  one  of  them*  It  was  near 
four  in  the  afternoon  when  I  landed,  and  I  lost  no  time 


North-West  Continent  cf  Americt 


180 


in  proceeding  to  the  attainment  of  my  object.  I  was 
accompanied  only  by  a  young  Indian,  as  the  curiosity 
of  my  people  was  subdued  by  the  fatigue  they  had 
undergone  ;  and  we  soon  had  reason  to  believe  that  we 
should  pay  dearly  for  the  indulgence  of  our  own. 
The  wood,  which  was  chiefly  of  spruce-fii*s,  was  so 
thick  that  it  was  with  great  diiRculty  we  made  our  way 
through  it*  When  we  had  walked  upwards  of  an 
hour,  the  underwood  decreased,  while  the  white  birch 
and  poplar  were  the  largest  and  tallest  of  their  kind 
I  had  ever  seen.  The  ground  now  began  to  rise  and 
was  covered  with  small  pines,  and  at  length  we  got 
the  first  view  of  the  mountains  since  we  had  left  the 
canoe  ;  as  they  appeared  to  be  no  nearer  to  us,  though 
we  ha^J  been  walking  for  three  houi*s,  than  when  we^ 
liad  sefen  them  from  the  river,  my  companion  expres- , 
sed  a  very  great  anxiety  to  return;  his  shoes  and  leg- 
gins  were  torn  to  pieces,  and  he  was  alarmed  at  the 
idea  of  passing  through  such  bad  roads  during  the  night. 
I  persisted,  however,  in  proceeding,  with  a  determina- 
tion to  pass  the  night  on  the  mountains  and  return  on 
the  morrow.  As  we  approached  them,  the  ground 
was  quite  iharshy,  and  we  waded  in  water  and  grass  up 
to  the  knees,  till  we  came  within  a  mile  of  them,  when 
I  suddenly  sunk  up  to  my  arm-pits,  and  it  was  with 
some  difficulty  that  I  extricated  myself  from  this  dis- 
agreealjle  situation.  I  now  found  it  impossible  to  pro- 
ceed :  to  cross  this  marshy  ground  in  a  straight  line 
was  impracticable  ;  and  it  extended  so  far  to  the  right? 
and  left,  that  I  could  not  attempt  to  make  the  circuit :  • 
I  therefore  determined  to  return  to  the  canoej  and  ar- 
rived there  about  midnight,  very  much  fatigued  with 
this  fruitless  journey. 

Tue-sday  U.  We  observed  several  tracks  along  the 
beach,  and  an  encampment  at  the  edge  of  the  woods, 
which  appeared  to  be  five  or  six  days  old.  We  should 
have  continued  our  route  along  this  side  of  the  river, 
but  we  had  not  seen  our  hunters  since  yesterday  morn- 
ing. We  accordingly  embarked  before  threes  and  at 
live  traversed  the  river,  when  we  saw  two  of  theni? 
coming  do\¥n  in  search  of  us.     They  had  killed  no 


190  y$um€d  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

otlher  artimala  thcAi  one  beaver^  and  a  few  hares.  Ac* 
cording  to  their  account)  the  woods  were  so  thiols 
that  it  was  impossible  to  follow  the  game  through 
■  them.  They  had  seen  several  of  the  natives'  en< 
eampments,  at  no  great  distance  from  the  river  ;  and 
it  was  their  opinion  that  they  had  discovered  Ufr 
in  our  passage  down  it,  and  had  taken  care  to  avoid 
us ;  which  accounted  for  the  small  number  we  had 
seen  on  our  return.  I  requested  the  English  Chief 
to  return  with  me  to  the  other  side  of  the  river,  in 
wder  that  he  might  proceed  to  discover  the  na- 
tives, whose  tracks  and  habitations  we  had  seen 
there  ;  but  he  was  backward  in  complying  with  my 
desire,  and  proposed  to  send  the  young  men  f  but 
I  could  not  trust  to  them,  and  at  the  same  time  "^as 
becJ^me  rather  doubtful  of  him.  They  were  stilFafraid 
lesi  I  )"  iM  obtain  such  accounts  of  the  other  river 
9*  wc  .  jnduce  me  to  travel  over  land  to  it,  aiid  that 
they  should  be  called  upoA  to  accompany  me.  I  was, 
indeed,  informed  by  one  of  my  own  people,  that  the 
English  Chief,  his  wives,  and  companions,  had  deter- 
mined to  leave  me  on  this  side  of  the  Slave  Lake,  in 
cwfder  to  go  to  the  country  of  the  Beaver  Indians ;  and 
that  about  the  middle  of  the  winter  he  would  return 
to  that  lake,  where  he  had  appointed  to  meet  some  of 
hia  relations,  who,  during-  the  last  sprmg,  had  been 
engaged  in  war. 

We  now.  traversed  the  river,  and  continued  to  trtck 
the  Indians  till  past  twelve,  when  we  lost  all  traces  of 
them }  in  consequence,  as  we  imagined,  of  their  hav- 
ing crossed  to  the  eastern  side.  We  saw  several  dogs^ 
on  both  shores  ;  and  one  of  the  young  Indians  killed 
a  wolf^  which  the  men  ate  with  great  satisfaction  :  we 
shot,  also,  ifteen  yc«ung  geese  that  were  now  beginning 
to  fly.  It  was  eight  when  we  took  our  evening  sta- 
tion, having  lost  four  hours  in  making  our  traverses. 
There  was  no  interruption  of  the  fine  weather  during 
the  course  of  this  day. 

Wcdneadajfj  13.  We  proceeded  on  our  voyage  at 
three  this  morning,  and  dispatched  the  two  young 
Indians  Rcross  the  river^  that  we  might  not  miss  any 


"       'North*West  ^Continent  of  America.        191 

«f  the  natives  that  should  be  on  the  -banks  of  it.  We 
saw  many  places  where  fires  had  been  lately  made 
along  the  beach,  as  well  as  fire  running  in  the  woods. 
At  four  we  arrived  at  an  encampment  which  had  been 
left  this  morning*  Their  tracks  were  observable  in 
several  places  in  the  woods,  and  as  it  might  be  pre- 
sumed that  they  could  not  be  at  any  ^reat  distance,  it 
was  proposed  to  the  chief  to  accompany  me  in  search 
of  them.  We  accordingly,  though  with  some  hesita- 
tion on  his  part,  penetrated  several  miles  into  the 
woods,  but  without  discovering  the  object  of  our  re^^ 
search.  The  fire  had  spread  all  over  the  country, 
and  had  burned  about  three  inches  of  the  black,  light 
soil,  which  covered  a  body  of  cold  clay,  that  was  so 
hard  as  not  to  receive  the  least  imprecision  of  our 
feet.  At  ten  we  returned  from  our  unsuccessful  ex- 
cursion. In  the  mean  time  the  hunters  had  killed  se- 
ven geese.  There  were  several  showers  of  rain,  ac- 
companied with  gusts  of  winrl  and  thunder.  The  nets 
had  been  set  during  our  absence. 

Thursday  13.  The  nets  were  taken  up,  but  not  one 
fish wias  £6und  in  them;  a.nd  at  half  past  three  we 
continued  our  route,  with  very  favourable  weather* 
We  passed  several  places,  where  &res  had  been  made 
by  the  natives,  and  many  tracks<were  perceptible  along 
the  beach*  At  seven  we  were  opposite  the  island 
where  our  Pemtnican  had  been  concealed :  two  of  the 
Iiidians  w-ere  accordingly  dispatched  in  search  of  it^ 
iind  it  proved  very  acceptable,  as  it  rendered  us  more 
independent  of  the  provisions  which  were  to  be  pb<- 
tained  by  our  fowling  pieces,  and  qualified  us  .to  get 
out  of  the  river  without  that  delay  which  our  hunters 
ivould  otherwise  have  required*  In  a  short  time  we 
perceived  a  smoke  on  the  shore  to  the  south-west,  a.t 
the  distance  of  three  leagues,  Vhich  did  not  appear  to 
proceed  from  any  running  fire-i  The  Indians,  who  were" 
a  little  way  a-head  of  us,  did  not  discover  it,  being 
engaged  in  the  pursuit  of  a  flock  of  geese,  at  which 
they  fired  several  shots,  when  the  smoke  immediate- 
ly disappeared  j  and  in  a  short  time  we  saw  several 
of  the  natives  run  along  the  shore,  some  of  whom  en- 


192  yournalofa  Voyage  through  the 


t '"  . 


^1 


tered  their  canoes.  Though  we  were  almost  opposite 
to  theiH)  we  could  not  cross  the  river  without  goin^; 
further  up  it,  from  the  strength  of  the  current ;  I 
therefore  ordered  our  Indians  to  make  every  possible 
exertion,  in  order  to  speak  with  them,  and  wait  our 
arrival.  But  as  soon  as  our  small  canoe  struck  off, 
we  could  perceive  the  poor  affrighted  people  hasten 
to  the  shore,  and  after  drawing  their  canoes  on  the 
beach,  hurry  into  the  woods.  It  was  past  ten  before 
we  landed  at  the  place  where  they  had  deserted  their 
canoes,  which  were  four  in  number.  They  were  so 
terrified  that  they  had  left  several  articles  on  the  beach. 
I  was  very  much  displeased  with  my  Indians,  who, 
instead  of  seeking  the  natives,  were  dividing  their 
property.  I  rebuked  the  English  Chief  with  some 
severity  for  his  conduct,  and  immediately  ordered  him, 
his  young  men,  and  my  own  people,  to  go  in  search 
of  the  fugitives,  but  their  fears  had  made  them  too 
nimble  for  us,  and  we  could  not  overtake  them.  We 
saw  several  dogs  in  the  woods,  and  some  of  tjiem  fol- 
lowed us  to  our  canoe. 

The  English  Chief  was  very  much  displease^  at  my 
reproaches,  and  expressed  himself  to  me  in  person  to 
that  efliect.  This  was  the  very  opportunity  which  I 
wanted,  to  make  him  acquainted  with  my  dissatisfac- 
tion, for  some  time  past.  I  stated  to  him  that  I  had 
come  ,a  great  way,  and  at  a  very  considerable  ex- 
pense, without  having  compleated  the  object  of  my 
wishes,  and  that  I  suspected  he  had  concealed  from 
me  a  principal  part  of  what  the  natives  had  told  him 
respecting  the  country,  lest  he  should  be  obliged  to 
follow  me :  that  his  reason  for  not  killing  game,  &c. 
was  his  jealousy,  which  likewise  prevented  him  from 
looking  after  the  natives  as  he  ought ;  and  that  we 
had  never  given  him  any  cause  for  any  suspicions  of  us. 
These  suggestions  irritated  him  in  a  very  high-degree, 
and  he  accused  me  of  speaking  ill  words  to  him^  he 
denied  the  charge  of  jealousy,  and  declared  that  he 
did  not  conceal  any  thing  from  us ;  and  that  as  to  the 
ill  success  of  their  hunting,  it  arose  from  the  nature 
of  the  country,  and  the  soaicity,  which  had  hitherto 


Ubrth'JVest  Continent  ofAmeritm*        rts 


appeared}  of  animals  in  it*     He  concluded  by  inform* 
ing  me,  that  he  would  not  accompany  trie  any  ftirther : 
that  though  he  was  without  ammunition,  he  could  live 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  slaves  (the  name  given  t* 
the  inhabitants  of  that  part  of  the  country,)  and  that 
he  would  remain  among  them.    His  haruigue  wat 
succeeded  by  a  loud  and  bitter  lamentation ;  and  hit 
relations  Assisted  the  vociferations  of  his  grief;  though 
they  ssud  that  their  tears  flowed  for  their  dead  friends. 
I  did  not  interrupt  theii'  grief  for  two  hours,  but  as  I 
could  nttt  do  well  without  them,  I  was  at  length  obliged 
to  soothe  it,  and  induce  the  chief  tochang<^  his  resolu-  < 
tion,  ^hich  he  did,  but  with  great  apparent  reluc- 
tance ;  when  we  embarked  as  we  had  hitherto  done* 
The  articles  which  the  fugitives  had  left  behind 
them,  on   the  present  occasion,  were  bows,  arrows 
snares  for  moose  and  rein-deer,  and  for  hates ;  to 
these  may  be  added  a  few  dishes  made  of  bark,  some 
skins  of  the  martin  and  the  beaver,  and  old  beaver 
robes,  with  a  small  robe  made  of  the  skin  of  the  lynx« 
Their  canoes  were  coarsely  made. of  the  bark  of  the 
spruce-fir,  and  will  carry  two  or  three  people.    I  or- 
dered my  men  to  remove  them  to  the  shade,  and  gaVe 
most  of  the  othfer  articles  to  the  young  Indians.     The 
English  Chief  would  not  accept  of  any  of  them*    In 
the  place,  and  as  the  purchase  of  them,  I  left  some 
cloth,   son^  small  knives,  a  file,  two  fire-steelsj  a 
con.b,  rings,  with  beads  and  awls.    I  also  ordered  a 
martin  skin  to  be  placed  on  a  proper  mould,  and  a 
beaver  skin  to  be  stretched  on  a  frame,  to  which  I  ti- 
ed a  scraper.    The  Indians  were  of  opinion  that  all 
these  articles  would  be  lost,  as  the  natives  were  %% 
much  frightened  that  they  would  never  return.    Here 
we  lost  six  hours ;  and  on  our  quitting  the  place,  three 
of  the  dogs  which  I  have  already  mentioned  followed 
us  along  the  beach. 

We  pitched  our  tents  at  half  past  eight,  at  the  en** 
trance  of  the  river  of  the  mountain  ;  and  while  the 
people  were  unloading  the  canoe,  I  took  a  walk  sdong 
the  beach>  and  on  the  shoals,  which  being  uncovered 
since  we  passed  down,  by  .tho  siidfcing  vi  the  waters, 


1 M .        Jmrnal  efa  Voyage  through  tht 


^/ 


were  now  .white  with  a  saline  substance.  I  sent  Ibf 
the  English  Chief  to  sup  with  mc*  anU  a  dram  or  two 
dlspeUed  all  his  heart-burniog  and  discontent.  He 
informed  me  that  it  was  a  custom  with  the  Chepfe* 
wyan  Chiefs  to  go  to  war  after  tb  ,;y  had  shed  tears,  in 
order  to  wipe  away  the  dis^rai  e  attached  to  sucii  a 
fe^nine  weakness,  and  that  in  the  ensuing  spring  he 
should  not  fail  to  execute  his  design  :  at  the  same 
time,  he;  declared  his  intention  to  continue  with  <  us  as 
long  as,  I  should ,  want  him.  I  took  carts  that  he 
should  carry  some  liquid  consolation  t»  his  lodge,  to 
prevent  the  return  of  his  chagrin.  The  weather  waA 
fine,  and  the  Indians  killed  three  geese.  ^  < 

Friday  14.  At  a  quarter  before  four  this  morniqg» 
we  returned  to  quv,  canoe,  and  went*  about  two  miles 
up  the  river  on  the  mountains.  Fire>  was  in  the. 
ground  on  each  side  of  it.  In  travei'sing  I  tookrsound-* 
in'gs,  and  found  five,  four  and  an.hali^  and  threeand  an 
half^  fathoms  water.  Its  streajn«  was  very  muddy,  and 
formed  a  cloudy  streak  alongthe  water  of  the  greav  :i* 
ve^ion  the  west  side  of  the  eastern  rapid,  where^the 
waters  of  the  two  rivers  at  length  blend  in  one.  It 
Was  impossible  not  to  consider  it  as  ^an  extintordinary 
circiunstance,  that  the  current  of  the  former  river 
sllfmid  not  incorporate  with  that  of  the  latter,  butflow., 
as.it  were*  '^n.  distinct  streams  at  so  great  a  distance, 
an4  till  the  contracted  state  ofthe;  channel  unites  them. 
We,  passed  s^everal  encampments  of  the  natiYes^  and 
a  river  which  flowed  in  from  the  north,  that  had  the 
appearance  of  being  navigable.  We,  concluded  our 
voyfige  of  this  day  at  half  past  Ave  in  the  afternoon* 
There  were  plenty  of  berries,  which  my  people  called 
/iojVm;  they  are  of  a  purple  hue,  somewhat  bigger 
than  a  peai  and  of  a  luscious  taste,;  there  were  also 
gop^berriQa.£M^d  a  few  strawberries. 

Saturday  15.  We  continued  our  course  from  three 
in, the  morning  till  half  past  five  in  the  afternoon. 
W^  saw  severed  encampments  along  the  beach,  till^it 
bei;§me  two,  narrow  to  admit  them;  when  the  banks 
rose  into  a  considerablf^degreeof  elevation,.  £uid  there 
wert  ntqre  jcd4x  cMtrcntst.    Thfc  Indians  kitted  twelve 


North'Weat  Continent  of  Amtrica,        195 

peese,  and  berrici  wcfre  collecieU  in  ^reat  abundance* 
The  weather  was  sultry  throughout  the  day. 

Sunday  16.  Wc  continued  our  voyage  at  a  quarter 
before  four,  and  in  five  hours  passed  the  place  where 
we  had  been  stationed  on  the  1 3th  of  June.  Mere  the 
liver  widened,  and  its  shores  became  flat.  The  land 
on  the  noi  th  side  is  low,  composed  of  a  black,  soil} 
mixed  with  stones,  but  agreeably  covered  with  the  as- 
pen, the  poplar,  the  white  birch,  the  spruce-fir,  &c. 
The  current  was  so  moderate,  that  wp  proceeded  up- 
on it  almost  as  fast  as  in  dead  water.  At  twelve  we 
paiised  an  encampment  of  three  fires,  which  was  the 
only  one  we  saw  in  the  coui*8c  of  the  day.  The  wea- 
t^r  was  the  same  as  yesterday. 

Monday  17.  We  proceeded  at  half  past  three ;  and 
saw  three  successive  encampments.  From  the  pe- 
culiar structure  of  the  huts,  we  imagined  that  some 
of  the  Red-Knife  Indians  had  been  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  though  it  is  not  usual  for  them  to  come  this 
way.  I  had  last  night  ordered  the  young  Indiana  to 
precede  us,  for  the  purpose  of  hunting,  and  at  ten  we 
overtook  them.  They  had  killed  five  young  swans  ; 
and  the  English  Chief  presented  us  with  an  eagle* 
three  cranes,  a  small  beaver,  and  two  geese.  We  en(i- 
camped  at  seven  this  evening,  on  the  same  spot  which 
had  been  our  resting-place  on  the  2^th  of  June. 

7'uesday  18.  At  four  this  morning  I  equipped  all 
the  Indians  for  an  hunting  excursion,  and  sent  them 
onward,  as  our  stock  of  provision  was  nearly  exhaust- 
ed. We  followed  at  half  past  six,  and  crossed  over 
to  the  north  shore,  where  the  land  is  low  and  scarcely 
visible  in  the  horizon.  It  was  near  twelve  when  we 
arrived.  I  now  got  an  observation,  when  it  was  61.33. 
north  lat.  We  were  near  five  miies  to  the  north  of 
the  main  channel  of  the  river.  The  fresh  tracks  and 
beds  of  buffaloes  were  very  perceptible.  Near  this 
place  a  river  flowed  in  from  the  Horn  mountains 
which  are  at  no  great  distance.  We  landed  at  five  in 
the  afternoon,  and  before  the  canoe  was  unloaded,  the 
English  Chief  arrived  with  the  tongue  of  a  cow,  or 
female  builaloc,  when  four  men  and  the  Indians  were 


1>6  Joumalof  a  VdyG^e  through  the 


dispatched  for  the  flesh  i  but  they  did  not  return  till 

it  was  dark.     They  informed  me,  that  they  had  seen 

•  several  human  tracks  in  the  sand  on  the  opposite  isl- 

^  and.    The  fine  weather  continued  ivithout  interruption. 

Wednesday^  19.  The  Indians  were  again  sent  for- 
ward in  pursuit  of  game  :  and  some  lime  being  em- 
ployed in  gumming  the  canoe,  we  did  not  embark 
till  half  past  five,  and  at  nine  we  landed  to  wait  the 
return  of  the  hunters.  I  here  found  the  variation  of 
the  compass  to  be  about  twenty  degrees  east. 

The  people  made  themselves  paddles  and  repaired 
the  canoe.  It  is  an  extraordinary  circumstance  for 
which  I  do  not  pretend  to  account,  that  there  is  some 
peculiar  quality  in  the  water  of  this  river,  which  cor- 
rodes wood,  from  the  destruc'ive  effect  it  had  on  the 
paddles.  The  hunters  arrived  at  a  late  hour  without 
having  seen  any  large  rnimals.  Their  booty  consist- 
ed only  of  three  swans  and  as  many  gdese.  The  wo- 
men were  employed  in  gathering  cranberries  and 
crowberriesj  which  were  found  in  great  abundance. 

Thursday,  20.  We  embarked  at  four  o'clock,  and 
took  the  north  side  of  the  channel,  though  *he  cur- 
rent was  on  that  side  much  stronger,  in  order  to  take 
a  view  of  th»  river,  which  had  been  mentioned  to  me 
in  our  passage  doM^nwawls,  as  flowini^  from  the  coun- 
try of  the  Beaver  Indians,  and  which  fell  in  hei-t- 
abouts.  We  could  not,  however,  discover  it,  and  it  is 
probable  that  the  account  was  referable  to. a  river 
"rhich  we  had  passed  on  Tuesday.  The  current 
■  rt'as  very  strong,  and  we  crossed  over  to  an  island  op- 
posite to  us  ;  here  it  was  siill  more  impetuous,  and 
assumed  the  hurry  of  a  rapid.  We  found  an  awl  and 
a  paddle  on  ihe  side  of  the  water  ;  the-  former  we 
knew  to  belong  to  the  Knistineaux  :  i  supposed  it  to 
be  the  chief  Merde-d'ours  and  his  party,  who  went  to 
war  last  spring,  and  had  taken  this  route  on  their  re- 
turn to  Athabasca.  Ncr  is  it  improbable  that  they 
may  have  been  the  cause 'that  we  saw  so  few  of  the 
natives  on  the  banks  of  this  river.  The  weather  was 
raw  and  cloudy,  and  formed  a  very  unpleasant  con- 
trast to  the  warm,  sunny  days  which  immediately 


North4Veat  Continent  of  America.        19f 


prec  ded  it.  We  took  up  our  abode  for  the  night  at 
half  past  seven,  on  the  northern  shores  wber«  the  ad- 
jacent country  is  both  low  and  flat.  The  Indians  kill- 
ed five  young  swans,  and  a  beaver.  There  was  an 
appearance  of  rain^ 

Friday^  2 1 .  The  weather  was  cold,  with  a  strong 
easterly  wind  and  frequent  showers,  so  that  we  were 
detained  in  our  station.  In  the  afternoon  the  Indians 
got  on  the  track  of  a  moose-deer,  but  were  not  so  for- 
tunate as  to  overtake  it. 

Saturday,  22*.  The  wind  veered  round  to  thp  west- 
ward, and  continued  to  blow  strong  and  cold.  We, 
however,  renewed  our  voyage,  and  in  three  hours 
reached  the  entrance  of  the  Slave  Lake,  under  half 
sail  ;  with  the  paddle,  it  would  liave  taken  us  at  least 
eight  houi*s.  The  Indians  did  not  arrive  till  four 
hours  after  us  ;  but  the  wind  was  sa  violent,  that  it 
was  not.  expedient  to  venture  into  the  lake ,  we  there- 
fore set  a  net  and  encamped  for  the  night.  The  wo- 
men gathered  large  quantities  of  the  fruit,  already- 
mentioned,  called  Pathagomenan,  and  cranberries, 
crowberries,  mooseberries,  fcc.  The  Indians  killed 
two  swans  and  three  geese.  i  ■ 

Sunday,  23*  The  net  produced  but  five  small  piker,, 
and  at  five  we  en^barked,  and  eiUered  the  lAe  by  the 
sume  channel  through  which  we  had  passed  from  it*. 
The  south-west  side  would  have  been  the  shortest^ 
but  we  were  not  certain  of  there  being  plenty  offish 
along  the  coast,,  and  we  were  sure  of  finding  abun<^ 
daace  of  them  in  the  course  we  preferred.  Besides, 
I  expected  to  find  my  people  at  the  place  where  I  left 
them,  as  they  had  received,  orders  to  remain  thCTe 
till  the  fall. 

We  pVldled  a  long  way  iiito  a  deep  t»ay  to  get  the  . 
wind,  and  having  ^eft  our  mast  behind  us,  we  landed, 
to  cut  another.  Wfe  then  hoisted  sail  and  were  driv- 
en on  at  a  great  rate*  At  twelve  the  wind  and  swell 
were  augmented  to  such  a  decree,  that  our  under 
yard  broke,  but  luckily  the  mast  thwart  resisted,  till 
we  had  time  to  fasten  down  the  yard  with  a  pole« 
without  lowering  sail*    We  took  in  a  large  quaatit]^* 

R  3 


198  yournal  9f  a  Voyage  through  the 

of  water,  and  had  our  mast  given  way,  in  all  proba- 
bility, we  shbuld  have  filled  and  sunk.  Our  course 
continued  to  be  very  dangerous,  along  a  fiat  lee 
shore,  without  being  able  to  land  till  three  in  the  af- 
ternoon. Two  men  were  continually  employed  in 
bailing  out  the  water  which  we  took  in  on  all  sides. 
We  fortunately  doubled  a  point  that  screened  us  from 
the  wind  and  swell,  and  encamped  for  the^  night,  in 
order  to  wait  for  our  Indians.  We  then  set  eur  nets, 
made  a  yard  and  mast,  and  gummed  the  canoe.  On 
Tisiting  the  nets,  we  found  six  white  fish,  and  two 
pike.  The  women  gathered  cranberries  and  crow- 
berries  in  great  plenty  ;  and  as  the  night  came  on, 
the  weather  became  more  moderate. 

Monday  2A,  Our  nets  this  morning  produced  four- 
teen^ white  fish,  ten  pikes,  and  a  couple  of  trouts.  At 
five  we  embarked  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  south, 
when  we  hoisted  sail,  and  proceeded  slowly,  as  our 
Indians  had  not  come  up  with  us.  At  eleven  we  went 
on  shore  to  prepare  the  kettle,  and  dry  the  nets ;  at 
one  we  were  again  on  the  water.  At  four  in  the  af- 
ternoon we  perceived  a  large  canoe  with  a  sail,  and 
two  small  ones  4  head;  we  soon  came  up  with  them, 
when  they  pvoved  to  be  M.  Le  Roux  and  an  Indian, 
with  his  family,  who  were  on  a  hunting  party,  and  had 
been  out  twenty-five  days.  It  was  his  intention  to  have 
gone  as  far  as  the  river,  to  leave  a  Ibtter  for  me,  to  in- 
form me  of  li\%  situation.  He  had  seen  no  more  In- 
dians where  I  had  left  him ;  but  had  made  a  voyage  to 
Lac  la  Marte,  where  he  met  eighteen  small  canoes  of 
the  Slave  Indian  5,  from  whom  he  obtained  five  packs 
«f  skins,  which  were  principally  those  of  the  martin. 
There  were  four  Beaver  Indians  among  them,  whol 'vd 
bartered  the  greatest  part  of  the  above-mentioned  all- 
eles with  them,  before  his  arrival.  They  informed  him 
that  their  relations  ha^  more  skins,  but  that  they  were 
afraid  to  venture  with  them,  though  they  had  been  in- 
formed that  people  were  to  come  with  goods  to  barter 
for  them.  He  gave  theise  people  a  pair  of  ice  chisels 
each,  and  other  articles,  and  sent  thr  i  away  tQ  con- 


North'West  Cdntinent  of  America.        119 

duct  their  friends  to  the  Slave  Lake,  where  he  was  to 
remain  during  the  succeeding  winter. 

We  set  three  nets,  und  in  a  short  time  caught 
twenty  fish  of  different  kindr.  In  the  dusk  of  the 
evening  the  English  Chief  arrived  with  a  most  pitiful 
account  that  he  ha('  like  to  have  been  drowned  in  try- 
ing to  follow  us ;  and  that  the  other  men  had  also  a  very 
narrow  escape.  Their  canoe,  he  said,  had  broken  on 
the  swell,  at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  but  as  it 
was  flat,  they  had'  with  his  assistance  been  able  to 
save  themselves.  He  added,  that  hv^  left  them  la- 
menting, lest  they  should  not  overtake  me,  if  I  did 
not  £ut  for  them :  he  also  expressed  his  apprehen- 
sions that  they  would  not  be  able  to  repair  their  ca- 
noe. ThU  evening  I  gave  my  men  some  rum  to 
cheer  them,  after  their  fatigues. 

Tuesday  25.  We  rose  this  morning  at  a  late  hour, 
when  we  visited  the  nets,  which  produced  but  few  fish : 
my  people,  indeed,  partook  of  the  stores  of  M.  Le  Roux. 
At  eleven  the  young  Indians  arrived,  and  reproached 
me  for  having  left  them  so  far  behind.  They  had 
killed  two  swans,  and  brought  me  one  of  them.  The 
wind  was  southerly  thioughout  the  day,  and  too 
strong  for  us  to  depart,  as  we  were  at  the  foot  of  ft 
grand  traverse.  At  noon  I  had  an  observation,  which 
gave  61.  29.  north  latitude.  Such  was  the  state  of 
the  weather,  that  we  could  not  visit  our  nets.  In  the 
afternoon  the  sky  darkened,  and  there  was  light- 
ning, accompanied  with  loud  claps  of  thunder.  The 
wind  also  veered  round  to  the  westward,  and  blew 
an  hurricane. 

Wednesday  26.  It  rained  throughout  the  night,  and 
till  eight  in  the  morning,  without  any  alteration  in  the 
wind.  The  Indians  went  on  an  hunting  excursion, 
but  returned  altogether  without  success  in  the  even- 
ing. One  of  them  was  so  unfortunate  as  to  miss  a 
moose-deer.  In  the  afternoon  there  were  heavy 
showers,  with  thunder,  <xc. 

Thursday  27.  We  embarked  at  four,  and  hoisted 
sail.  At  nine  Wv  landed  to  dress  victuals,  and.jwait 
for  M.  Lc  Boux  and  the'Indians.    At  elevets:  wq  pro- 


'^.^J^ 


SOO  JimmaltfA  Voy^e  through  the 


ceeded  with  fihe  and  calm  %teather.  At  four  in  the  af* 
tcmoon  a  light  breeise  spra&f  up  to  the  soutlbward)  to 
*which  we  spread  0ur  sail,  and  at  half  put  five  in  the 
«ftemoon  went  on  "shore  for  the  night.  Wc  then  act 
our  nets«  The  English  Chief  and  his  people  beuig 
quite  exhausted  with  fatigue,  he  this  morning  expres- 
aed  his  desire  to  remain  behind,  in  order  to  proceed 
to  tile  country  of  the  Beaver  Indians,  engaging  at  the 
kame  tifne  thdit  he  would  return  to  Athabasca  iim  the 
cours^e  of  the  winter. 

Friday  28%  It  bl«w  very  hard  throughout  the  night, 
land  this  morning,  so  that  we  found  it  a  business  of 
«ome  difficulty  to  get  to  our  nets  ;  our  trouble,  how- 
ever,  wis  t^paid  by  a  considerable  quantit)  of  white 
fish,  trout.  Sec.  Towards  the  afternoon  the  wind  in- 
ci^ased.  Two  of  the  men  who  had  been  gathering 
berries  saw  two  moose-deer,  with  the  tracks  of  buffa- 
loes and  rein-dee^.  About  sim-set  we  heari  two 
eliots,  arid  saw  a  {it%  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay  ; 
we  accordingly  made  a  large  hre  also,  that  our  posi- 
tion might  be  de^termined.  When  we  were  all  gone 
to  bed,  we  heard  the  report  of  a  gun  very  near  us, 
and  in  a  very  short  time,  the  English  Chief  prtsented 
hiiqtiself  drenched  with  wet,  and  in  much  apparent 
confusion  informed  me  that  the  canoe  with  his  com- 
paniona  was  broken  to  pieces ;  and  that  they  had  lost 
their  fowllpg  pieces,  and  the  flesh  of  a  rein-deer,  which 
they  had  killed  this  morning.  They  were,  he  said, 
at  a  very  short  distance  from  us ;  and  at  the  same 
time  requested  that  lire  might  be  sent  to  them,  as 
they  were  starving  with  cold.  They  and  his  women, 
however,  soon  joined  us,  and  were  iminediately  accom- 
modated with  dry  clothes. 

Saturday  29.  I  sent  the  Indians  on  an  hunting  par- 
ty, but  they  returned  without  success;  and  they  ex- 
l^resscd  their  determination  not  to  follow  ine  any  fur« 
ther,  from  their  apprehension  of  being  drowned. 

Sunday  30.  We  embarked  at  one  this  morning, 
and  took  from  the  nets  a  large  trout,  and  twenty  white 
fish.  At  sun-rise  a  smart  aft  breeze  sprang  up,  which 
wafted  ua  toM.  Le  Roux's  house  by  tw<^a  the  air- 


i^orth^JVest  Continmt  »f  Amerkm,        ioi 

temoon.  It  was  late  before  he  and  our  Indians  arriir- 
cd ;  when,  according  to  a  promise  which  I  had  made 
the  latter,  I  gave  them  a  plentiful  equipment  of  irou 
ware,  ammunition)  tobacco,  &c.  as  a  recompence  for 
the  toil  and  inconvenience  they  had  sustained  wi{li 
uie. 

I  proposed  to  the  English  Chief  to  proceed  to  the 
country  of  the  Beaver  Indians^  and  bring  them  to  di»» 
pose  of  their  peltries  to  M.  Le  Roux,  whom  I  intend- 
ed to  leave  there  the  ensuing  winter*  He  had  alrea- 
dy engaged  to  be  at  Athabasca,  in  the  monih  of  March 
next,  with  plenty  of  furs. 

Monday. 'M,  I  sat  up  all  night  to  make  the  necet^ 
sary  arrangements  for  the  embarkation  of  this  mom* 
ing,  and  to  prepare  instructions  for  M.  Le  Roux* 
We  obtained  some  provisions  here,  and  parted  from 
him  at  five,  with  fine  calm  weather.  It  soon,  howe- 
ver, became  necessary  to  land  on  a  small  island,  to 
stop  the  leakage  of  the  canoe,  wluch  had  been  occa^ 
sioned  by  the  shot  of  an  arro#  under  this  water*niarki 
by  some  Indian  children.  While  this  business  was 
proceeding,  we  took  the  opportunity  of  dressing  some 
fish.  At  twelve  the  wind  sprang  up  from  the  south- 
east, which  was  in  the  teeth  of  our  direction,  so  thai 
our  progress  was  greatly  impeded.  I  had  an  obser^ 
vation,  whiph  gave  62.  15.  north  latitude*  We 
landed  at  sev«n  in  the  evening,  and  pitched  our  tents. 

Se/item6er,  Tuesday  1.  We  continued  our  voyage  at 
five  in  the  morning,  the  weather  calm  and  fine,  and  pas- 
sed the  Isle  a  la  C^che  about  twelve,  but  could  not 
perqeive  the  land,  which  was  seen  in  our  former  pas- 
sage. On  passing  the  CarrebcEuf  Islands,  at  five  in 
the  afternoon,  we  saw  land  to  the  south  by  west,  which 
we  thought  was  the  opposite  side  of  the  l^e,  stretchy 
ing  away  to  a  ^rcat  distance.  We  landed  at  half  past 
six  in  the  evening,  when  there  was  thunder,  and  aA 
appearance  of  change  in  the  weather. 

Wedneaday  2.  It  rained  and  blew  hard  the  latter 
part  of  the  night.  \t  half  past  five  the  rain  Subsided^ 
when  we  made  a  traverse  of  twelve  miles,  and  took 
in  a  good  deal  of  water*    At  twelve  it  became  calm, 


38C«  jmnml  tfa  Voyage  through  the 

^1rhfn  I  had  an  observation,  which  gr<:*ve  6Xy  Sft,  novtfi 
4atitu()e.  At  three  in  the  afternoon  there  was  a  alight 
ibreese  &om  the  westward,  which  soon  increased, 
when  iwe;  hoisted  sail^  and  took  a  traverse  of  twenty- 
4fiur  mile^  ior  the  point  of  the  old  Fort,  where  we  ar- 
rived at  seven,  and  stopped  for  the  night.  This  t?:*- 
▼erse  shortened  our  way  three  leagues;  indeed  we 
.did  not;  expect  to  have  cleared  the  lake  in  such  a  short 
tinoe. 

7^ur«cf(iy,  3.  It  blew  with  great  violence  through- 
ft>ut  the  jnight,.and  at  £oiur  in  the  morning  we  embark- 
ed, when  we  did  not  make  more  than  five  miles  in 
-three  hours  without  stopping  ;  notwithstanding  we 
.were  sheltered  from  the  swell  by  a  long  bank.  We 
Aow  entered  the  small  river,  where  the  Wind  could 
Mye  no,  effect  upoivus.  There  were  frequent  showers 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  we  encamped  at  six  in 
|he  evening* 

jSriday^  4.  The  morning  was  dark  and  cloudy,  ne- 
;;verthekss-we  embarked  at  five;  but  at  ten.it  cleared 
lip*  "We  saw  a  few  fowl,  and  at  seven  in  the  even- 
ing went  ou  shore  tor  the  night. 

Saturday  S»  The  weather  continued  to  be  cloudy. 
Jkt  five  we  proceeded,  and  at  eight  it  began  to  rain 
very  hard.  In  about  half  an  hour  we  put  to  shore,  and 
were  detained  for  the^reniaining  part  of  the  day. 
,  'Sunday  6.  It  rained  throughout  the  night,  with  a 
strong  north  wind.  Numerous  flocks  of  wild  fowl 
passed  to  the  southward  :  at  six  in  the  afternoon,  the 
rain,  in  some  measure,  subsided,  and  we  embarked, 
l)ut  it  soon  returned  with  renewed  violence  ;  we  ne- 
vertheless took  the  advantage  of  an  aft  wind,  though 
it  cost  us  a  complete  drenching.  Thv  hunters  killed 
«evien  geese,  and  we  pitched  our  tents  at  half  past  six 
in  the  evening. 

Monday f  7.  We  w^ue  on  the  water  at  five  this 
morning,  with  an  head  wind,  accompanied  by  suc- 
cessive showers.  At  three  ^  in  the  afternoon  we  ran 
the  canoe  on  a  stump,  and  it  filled  with  water  before 
she  could  be  got  to  land*    Two  hours  were  ennployed 


,\ 


NorthiWn^  CofHineHt  of  Amwkd.       8^3 

in  repairing  her,'  and  at  seven  in  the  evening  ytt  tdok 
our  station  for  the-tiifght.  < 

Tuetdayi,  8.  Wc  reneired  ourvofttgt  at  half  past 
four  in  a  thick  mist  wMdi  lasted  till  ninev  when  it 
cleared  away,  and  fine  weather  succeeded.  At  thrfec  * 
in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  fir&r carryings  place, 
Portage  desJVoyest  and  encamped  at  the  upper  end  of 
it  to  dry  our  clothes,  somid  of  which  were  almost  roit»' 
ten. 

Wedne9day\f  9.    We  embarked  aefivfe  in' the  mdm- 
ing^.  and  our  canoe  watt  damaged  on  the  men's  shoul* 
ders  who   were  bearing  it  oyer  the  canl-ying^Itiee^ 
called  Portage  du  Cheiique*    The  guide  repaired  her, 
however,  while  thei  other  men  were  (employed  in  car- 
rying the<  baggage.    The-cande  wad'gUTidtti^  at  the  ' 
carry Fng-piac«^  h^xoxqA  Portage  dela'MaimagrJt*    AU' 
ter  having  passed  the  carryihg^piace^^  we  Encamped 
at  the  Dog  Riter,  at  half  past  four  in  the  Jifternoon, 
in  a  state  of  great'  fatigue.'    The^canoewas' again 
gummed,  and  paddk9^  "were^  made>  to  replae^  those  ' 
that  had  been  broken  in   ascending  the   rapids:.    A 
swan  was  the  only  animal  that  we  killed  throughout  ' 
the  day* 

Thursday^  10.  There  was  rain  and  violent  wind 
daring  the  night  i  in  thetnorninjg  the  foruiier  aubsid- 
ed  and  the  latter  increasedv  At  half  past  five  we  coh<i 
tinued  our  course  with  a  north-westerly  wind.'  At 
seven  we  hoisted  saili  in  the  forenoon  there  were 
frequent  sht>wers  ofi-ahl  and  hail,  and  in  the  after--' 
noon  two  showers  of  snow:  the  wind  was  at  this  ' 
time  very  strong,  and  at  six  in  the  evening  we  land- 
ed at  a  lodge  of  KnisteneauXf  consisting  of  three 
men  and  five  women  and  children.  They  were  on 
their  return  from  war,  and  one  of  them  was  very 
sick :  they  separated  from  the  rest  of  their 'party  in 
the  enemy's  country,  from  absolute  hunger.  After 
this  separation,  they  met  with  a  family  of  the  hostile 
tribe,  whom  they  destroyed.  They  were  entirely  ig- 
norant of  the  fate  of  their  friends,  but  imagined,  that 
they  had  returned  to  the  Peace  River,  or  had  perished 


304  ymttrntU  rfa  f^yage  thifugh  the 

lor  want  of  food.  I  gave  medicine^  the  i^^A  «nd 
a  small  portion  of  ammunition  to  the  ^i^althy  $  'whkh, 
indeed,  thejr  verf  much  wanted,  as  they  had  entirely 
lived  for  the  last  six  months  on  th(^  produce  of  their 
bows  and  arrows.  They  appeared  ta  have  been 
great  sufferers  by  their  expedition. 

Friday^  11.  It  froie:  hard  during  the  night,  and 
was  very  cold  throughout  the  day»  with  an  appear- 
«nce  of  snow.  We  embarked  at  half  past  four  in 
the  morning)  and  continued  our  course  till  six  in  the 
evening,  when  we  landed  for  the  nif  ht  at  our  en- 
campm«At  o€  the  third  of  June. 

Saturihy^  12.  .The  weather  was  cloudy  and  also 
ve^y  cold*  At  eight  we  embarked  with  a  north-east 
fdnd,  and  entered  the  lake  of  the  Hills.  About  ten, 
tfte  ynnA  veered  to  the  westward,  and  was  as  atrong 
as  we  could  bear  it  with  the  high  sail,  so  that  we  ar- 
rived at  Che  ewyan  fort  by  threis  o'clock  in  the  af- 
ternoon, where  we  found  Mr.  Macleod,  with  five 
men,  bufily  employed  i^  building  a  new  house.  Here, 
then,  we  concluded  this  voyage,  which  had  occupied 
tlie  considerable  space  of  one  hundred  and  two 
days. 

•  ttin  nu  \aA  conceived  «i  idea,  that  the  people  witiiwtiom  he  luid  beet 
•t  wat,  had  thrown  aedkioe  at  hifla,  whidi  had  cattsed>i$  present  com^aiBL  and 
Aat  be  deuiired  of  recoverf .  The  aativa  Aie  w  superititious,  that  iWi  Idea  a- 
Jone wastofficiehi  to lUlt  him.  <H  tUi  weakaeN  I  took advantue  \  and  assured 
Vm,  that  if  h|B  wotdd  Jtevet-tiiore  go  to  war  wMt  Mdi  poor  defenceteas  peoftle, 
tiiat  1  ifvould  ctue  him.   To  this  piopodtioB  he  readuy  consented*  and  on  my  g^- 


ali  occatioM  ifuuiifeiied  his  gratitude  to  mc. 


JOURNAL 

OF 

A  SECOND  VOYAGE, 

THROUGH  THE  NORTHWEST  CONTINENT 

OF  AMERICA. 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^"•"■■■•■~^^^^^^^^^^~ 
CHAPTER  L 


I«avc  Fort  Chepewyan. 
rive  at  P«a«e  Point. 
Arrive  at  the  Falls. 


Proceed  to  tlie  Peace  River.  State  of  the  lakes.  Ar. 
Tlie  reason  auirned  for  itsiwme.  IV  treather  cold. 
Description  of  the  country.   Land  at  th>e  Fnr^  called 


the  Old  Establislunent.  The  principal  building  destroyed  by  fire.  Course  of 
<he  river.,  Arrive  at  another  fort.  Some  account  of  the  natives.  Depart  from 
thence.  Course  of  the  river  continued.  It  divides  into  two  branches.  Pk>» 
ceed  alona  the  |>rinclpal  one.  Land  at  the  ])lace  of  our  winter's  residence. 
Account  of  Us  circumstances  and  inhaUianis,  &;c.  Preparations  for  erecdng  « 
fort,  »cc.  &o.  Table  of  die  weatiKr.  Broke  tlie  thermometer,  f  ro&t  sets Tn. 
Descriptivn  •(  birds. 

«rtoft<r  lairxAviNG  made  every  ncccBsary  preparation^ 
I  left  Fort  Chepewyan  to  proceed  up  the  Peace-River. 
I  had  resolved  to  go  as  far  as  our  most  "distant  settle- 
ment) which  wouid  occupy  the  remaining  part  of  th« 
season,  it  being  the  route  by  which  I  proposed  to  at- 
tempt my  next  discovery,  across  the  mountains  HBom. 
the  source  of  that  river ;  for  whatever  distance  I 
could  reach  this  fall,  would  be  d  jiroportionate  ad- 
vancement of  my  voyage. 

In  consequence  o^  this  design,  I  I'.tl  the  establish- 
ment of  Fort  Chepewyan,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Roderic 
Mackenzie,  accompanied  by  t^vo  canoes  laden  witli 
the  necessary  articles  for  trade?  we  accordingly  steered 
west  for  one  of  the  branches  that  communicates  with 
the  Peace  RiVer,  called  the  Pine  River  ;  at  the  en- 
trance of  which  we  waited  for  the  other  canoes,  in 
order  to  take  some  supplies  from  them,  as  1  had  rea- 
son lo  apprehend  that  they  would  not  be  able  to  keep 
up  with  us.  We  entered  the  Peace  River  at  seven  in 
the  morning  of  the  12th,  taking  a  westerly  course. 
It  is  evident,  that  all  the  land  between  it  and  the  Lake 
of  the  Hills,  as  far  as  the  Elk  River,  is  formed  by  the 
quantity  of  earth  and  mud,  which  is  carried  down  by 
the  sftroams  of  tlK>se  two  great  rivers.  In  this  space 
there  are  several  lakes.    The  lake  Clear  Watel*,  whidi 

S 


506  Journal  of  a  Vm/'n^e  through  the 

is  the  deepest,  Lake  VaAsieii,  and  the  Athabasca 
Lake,  Which  is  the  largest  of  the  three,  ahd  Whose  de- 
nomination in  theKnisteneaux  language,  implies,  a 
flat,  low,  swampy  country,  subject  to  inundations.  The 
two  last  lakes  are  now  so  shallow,  that,  from  the  cause 
just  mentioned,  there  is  every  reason  to  expect,  that 
in  a  few  years,  they  will  have  exchanged  their  cha- 
racter and  become  extensive  forests. 

This  country  is-  so  level,  that,  at  some  seasons,  it  is 
entirely,  overflowed,  which  accounts  for  the  periodical 
influx  and  reflux  of  the  waters  between  the  Lake  of 
the  Hills  and  the  Peace  River. 

On  the  1 3th  W  noon  we  came  to  the  Peace  Point ; 
fi'om  which,  according  to  the  report  of  my  interpre- 
ter, the  river  derives  its  name  ;  it  was  the  spot  where 
tlife  Knisteneaux  and  Beaver  Indians  settled  their  dis- 
pute ;  the  real  name  of  the  river  and  point  being  that 
of  the  land  which  was  the  object  of  contention. 

When  this  country  was  formerly  invaded  by  the 
Knisteneaux,  they  found  the  Beaver  Indians  inhabit- 
ing the  land  about  Portage  La  Loche  ;  and  the  adJQin- 
ing  tribe  were  those  whom  they  called  slaves.  They 
drove  both  these  tribes  before  them  ;  when  the  latter 
.  proceeded  down  the  river  from  the  Lake  of  the  Hills, 
in  consequence  of  which  that  part  of  it  obtained  the 
name  of  the  Slave  River.  The  former  proceeded  up 
the  river  ;  and  when  the  Knisteneaux  made  peace  with 
them,  this  place  was  settled  to  be  the  boundary. 

We  continued  our  voyage,  and  I  did  not  find  the  cur- 
rent so  strong  in  this  river  as  I  had  been  induced  to 
believe,  though  this,  perhaps,  was  not  the  period  to 
form  a  correct  notion  of  that  circumstance,  as  well  as 
of  the  breadth,  the  water  being  very  low  ;  so  that  the 
stream  has  not  appeared  to  me  to  be,  in  any  part  that 
I  have  seen,  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide. 

The  weather  was  cold  and  raw,  so  as  to  render  our 
progress  unpleasant ;  at  the  same  time  we  did  not  re- 
lax in  our  expedition,  and,  at  three  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  17th,  we  arrived  at  t'le  fells.  The  river  at  this 
place  is  about  four  hundred  yards  brpad)  and  the  fall 
about  twenty  feet  high :  the  first  carrying  place  is  eight 


North-West  Continent  of  America.        20/ 


hundred  paces  in  length,  and  the  last)  which  is  about  a' 
mile  onwardsi  is  something  more  than  two  thirds  of 
that  distance.  Here  we  found  several  fires,  from  which 
circumstance  we  concluded,  that  the  canoes  destined 
for  this  quarter,  which  left  the  fort  some  days  before  us, 
could  not  be  far  a-head.  The  weather  continued  to  be 
very  cold,  and  the  snow  that  fell  during  the  night  wafc 
several  inches  deep. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  as  soon  as  we  got  out 
of  the  draught  of  the  fall,  the  wind  being  at  north- 
east,  and  strong  in  our  favor,  we  hoisted  sail,  which 
carried  us  on  at  a  considerable  rate  against  the  cur- 
rent, and  passed  the  Loon  River  before  twelve  o'clock ; 
from  thence  we  soon  came  along  the  Grand  Isle,  at 
the  upper  end  of  which  we  encamped  for  the  night. 
It  now  froze  very  hard  :  indeed,  it  had  so  much  the 
appearance  of  winter,  that  I  began  to  entertain  some 
alarm  lest  we  might  be  stopped  by  the  ice  :  we  there- 
fore set  off  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the 
I9th,  and  about  eight  we  landed  at  the  Old  Establish- 
ment. 

The  passage  from  this  place  to  Athabasca  having 
been  surveyed  by  M.  Vandrieul,  formerly  in  the  com- 
pany's service,  I  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  give 
any  particular  attention  to  it  ;  I  shall,  however,  just 
observe,  that  the  course  in  general  from  the  Lake  of 
the  Hills  to  the  falls,  is  westerly,  and  as  much  to  the 
north  as  the  south  of  it,  from  hence  it  is  about  west- 
south-west  to  this  fort. 

The  country  in  general  is  low  from  our  entrance  of 
the  river  to  the  falls,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  feyr 
open  parts  covered  with  grass,  it  is  clothed  with  wood. 
Where  the  banks  are  very  low  the  soil  is  good,  be- 
ing composed  of  the  sediment  of  the  river  and  pu- 
tretied  leaves  and  vegetables.  Where  they  are  more 
elevated,  they  display  a  fac^e  of  yellowish  clay,  mixed 
with  small  stones.  On  a  line  with  the  falls,  and  on 
either  side  of  the  river,  there  are  said  to  be  very  ex- 
tensive plains,  which  afford  pasture  to  numerous 
herds  of  buffaloes.  Our  people  a-head  slept  here  last 
night,  and,  from  their  carelessness,  the  fire  was  com- 


96ft         Jourrud  efa  Voyage  through  the 


nunictted  to,  and  burned  down,  the  large  house,  and 
was  proceeding  fast  to  the  smaller  buildings  when  we 
arrived  to  extinguish  it* 

We  continued  our  voyage,  the  course  of  the  river 
being  south-west  by  wcbt  one  mile  and  a  quarter, 
south  by  east  one  mile,  south-west  by  south  three 
miles,,  west  by  south  one  mile^  south-south-west  two 
miles,  south  four  miles,  south-west  seven  miles  and  an 
half^  aoutii  by  west  one  mile,  north-north-west  two 
miles  and  an  half,  south  five  miles  and  a  quarter, 
south-west  one  mile  and  a  half,  north-east  by  east 
three  miles  and  an  half,  and  south-east  by  east  one 
inile» 

We  overtook  Mr.  Findlay,  with  his  canoes,  who 
iraa  encamped  near  the  fort  of  which  he  was  going  to 
take  the  charge,  during  the  ensuing  winter,  and  made  ev- 
ery necessary  preparative  for  a  '^coming  appearance  on 
our  arrival  the  following  morning.  Although  I  had. 
been  since  the  year  1787  in  the  Athabasca  country,  I 
had  never  yet  seen  a  single  native  of  that  pait  of  it 
which  we  had  now  reached. 

At  six  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  90th,  we  landed 
lifcfore  the  house,  amidst  the  rejoicing  and  firing 
of  the  people,  who  were  animated  with  the  pVospect 
of  again  indulging  themselves  in  the  luxury  of  rum>. 
of  which  they  had  been  deprived  since  the  beginning 
of  May  ;  as  it  is  a  practice  thoughout  the  north-west, 
neither  to  sell  or  give  any  rum  to  the  natives  during 
the  summer.  There  was  at  this  time  only  one  Chief 
with  his  people,  the  other  two  being  hourly  expected 
with  their  bands  :  and  on  the  2  1st  and  22,  they  all  ar- 
rived except  the  war  Chief  and  fifteen  men.  As  they 
very  soon  expressed  their  desire  of  the  expected  re- 
gale, I  called  them  together,  to  the  number  of  forty- 
two  hunters  or  men  capable  of  bearing  arms,  to  offer 
some  advice,  which  would  be  equally  advantageous  to 
them  and  to  us,  and  I  strengthened  iiy  admonition 
with  a  nine  gallon  cask  of  reduced  rum,  and  a  quantity 
of  tobacco.  At  the  same  time  I  observed,  that  as  I 
should  not  often  visit  them,  I  had  instanced  a  greater 
degree  of  liberality  than  they  had  been  accustomed  to. 


T^Orth-Wett  Continent  of  America, 


9cm 


The  number  of  people  belonging  to  this  establish- 
ment amounts  to  about  three  hundred,  of  which  sixty 
are  hunters.     Although  they  appear  from  their  lan- 
guage to  be  of  the  same  stock  as  the  Chepewyans,  they 
differ  from  them  in  appearance,  manners,  and  cus- 
toms, as  they  have  adopted  those  of  th'.ir  enemies, 
the    Knisteneaux :   they    speak  their    language,    at 
well  as  cut  their  hair,  paint,  and  dress  like  them,  and 
possess  their  immoderate  fondness  for  liquor  and  to- 
bacco.    This   description,    howeverj  can  be  applied 
only  to  the  men,  as  the  women  are  less  adorned  -e- 
ven  than  those  of  the  Clicpewyan  tribes.     We  could. 
not  observe,  without   some   degree  of  surprise,    the.* ' 
contrast  between   the  neat  and  decent  appearance  of 
the  men,  and  the  nastiness  of  the  women*     I  am  dis-- 
posed,  however,  to  think  that  this  circumstance  is  ge- 
nerally owing  to  the  extreme  submission  and  abase- 
ment of  the  latter :  for  I  observed^,  that  one  of  the 
Chiefs  allowed  two  of  his  wives  more  liberty  and  fa-  . 
miliarity  than  were  accorded  to  the  others,  as  well  as. 
a  more  becoming  exterior,,  and  their  appearance  wa» 
proportionably  pleasing.     I   shall,  however,  take  a. 
fixture  opportunity  to  speak  more  at  large  on  this,  sub- 
ject. 

There  were  frequent   changes^  of  the   weather  ih* 
the  course  of  the  dayj  and  it   froze  rather  hard  in 
the  night.     The  thickness  of  the  ice  in  the  morning 
was  a  sufficient  notice    for  me  to  proceeds     I  accord- 
ingly gave  the  natives  some  good  oounsel  as  might 
influence  their  behavior,  communicated  my  directions 
to  Mr.  Findlay  for  his  future  conduct,  and  took  my 
leave  under   several'   vollies  of  musketry,    on    the 
morning  of  the  2Sd»    I'  had  already  dispatched  my 
loaded  canoes  two  days  before,  With  directions   to- 
continue  theirprogresa  without-waiting  fbr  me.     Our 
course    was  south-SoUth-eaat  one  mile  and  an  half,, 
south  three  quarters ;  east  seven  miles  and' an  half,, 
veering  gradually  to  the  west  four  miles  and  an  half.. 
South-east   by    south  three  miltsj,  south-east  three 
miles   and   an   half,  east-southr-east  to   Long   Point, 
threcmiles,  southr west: one  mile  and  a  quarter^  casSt 

S2 


210  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

by  notth  four  miles  and  three  quai^ters,  >vest  three 
jnilos  and  a  half,  west-south-west  one  mile,  east  by 
south  five  miles  and  a  half,  south  three  miles  and 
three  quarters,  south-east  by  south  three  miles,  east- 
south-east  three  miles,  east-north-ea,st  one  mile,  when 
there  was  a  river  that  flowed  in  on  the  right,  east 
two  miles  and  a  half,  east-south-east  half  a  mile, 
south-east  by  south  seven  miles  and  an  half,  south 
two  miles,  south-south-east  three  miles  and  an  half; 
in  the  course  of  which  we  passed  an  island  south 
by  west,  where  a  rivulet  flowed  in  on  the  right,  one 
mile,  east  one  mile  and  an  half,  south  five  miles, 
south-east  by  south  four  miles  and  an  half,  south- 
west one  mile,  south-east  by  east  four  miles  and  an 
half,  west-south-west  half  a  mile,  south-west  six  miles 
tnd  three  quarters,  south-east  by  south  one  mile  and 
an  half,  south  one  mile  and  an  half,  south-east  by 
south  two  miles,  south-west  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  south-east  by  south  two  miles  and  an  half,  east 
by  south  one  mile  and  three  quarters,  south  two 
miles,  south-east  one  mile  and  an  half,  south-south- 
east half  a  mile,  east  by  south  two  miles  and  an 
half,  north-east,  three  miles,  south-west  by  west 
short  distance  to  the  establishment  of  last  year,  east- 
north-east  four  miles,  south-south-east  one  mile  and 
three  quarters,  south  half  a  mile,  south-east  by  south 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  north-east  by  east  one  mile., 
south  three  milts,  souih-south-east  one  mile  and  three 
quarters,  south  by  east  four  miles  and  an  half,  south- 
west three  rniles,  south  by  east  two  miles,  south  by 
west  one  mile  and  an  half,  south-west  two  miles, 
south  by  west  four  miles  and  an  half,  south-west  one 
mile  and  an  half,  and  south  by  east  three  miles. 
Here  we  arrived  at  the  forks  of  the  river ;  the  eastern 
branch  appearing  to  be  not  more  than  half  the  size  of 
the  western  one.  We  pursued  the  latter,  in  a  course 
south-west  by  west  six  miles,  and  landed  on  the  first 
of  November  at  the  place  which  was  designed  to  be 
my  winter  residence  :  indeed,  the  veather  had  been 
so  cold  and  disagreeable,  that  I  was  more  than  once 
apprehensive  of  our   being  stopped  by  ths  ice,  and) 


NortfhWe^t  Con/tin^  ^f  4^rfca.        2X1 

after  all)  it  rq^u(r^4  the  utmost  exertioi>s  of  whiph 
my  men  were  capable  tp  prevent  it  ;  so  that  on  their 
arrival  they  were  quite  exhausted.  Nor  were  their 
labors  at  an  end,  for  there  was  not  a  single  hut  tp 
receive  us :  it  was,  however,  now  in  my  power  to 
feed  and  sustain  them  in  a  more  comfortable  man- 
ner. 

December,  We  found  two  men  here  who  had  been 
^ent  forward  last  spring,  for  the  purpose  of  squar- 
ing timber  for  the  erection  of  an  house,  and  cutting 
pallisades.  Sec.  to  surround  it.  With  them  was  the 
principal  Chief  of  the  place,  and  about  seventy  mei>> 
who  had  been  anxiously  waiting  for  our  arrival,  an^ 
received  us  with  every  mark  of  satisfaction  and  re,« 
gard  which  they  could  e^rpress.  If  we  might  judge 
from  the  quantity  of  powder  thai  was  wasted  on  our 
arrival,  they  certainly  had  not  been  in  want  of  ani* 
munition,  at  least  during  the  summer. 

The  banks  of  the  river,  from  the  falls,  arc  in  ge- 
neral lofty,  except  at  low,  woody  points,  accidental"- 
iy  formed  in  the  manner  I  have  already  mentioned  : 
they  also  displayed,  in  all  their  broken  parts,  a  face 
of  clay,  intermixed  with  stone  ;  in  some  places  th^rQ 
likewise  appeared  a  black  mould. 

In  the  summer  of  1788,  a  small  spot  was  cleared 
at  the  old  establishment,  which  is  situated  on  ^  bank 
thirty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  was  sown 
with  turnips,  carrots,  and  parsnips.  The  first  grew 
to  a  large  size,  and  the  others  thrived  very  well.  An 
experiment  was  also  made  %vith  potatoes  and  cab- 
bages, the  former  of  which  were  successful  :  but  fpr 
want  of  care  the  latter  failed.  The  next  winter  the 
person  who  had  undertaken  this  cultivation,  suffered 
the  potatoes,  which  had  been  collected  for  seed,  to 
catch  the  frost,  and  none  had  been  since  brought  to. 
this  place.  There  is  not  the  least  doubt  but  the  soil 
would  be  very  productive,  if  a  proper  attention  was 
given  to  its  preparation.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  1787, 
when  I  first  arrived  at  Athabasca,  Mr.  Pond  was  set- 
tled on  the  baiiks  of  the  Elk  River,  where  he  remain- 


»I2  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the       - 

ed  for  three  yearS)  and  had  formed  as  fine  a  kitche* 
garden  as  I  ever  saw  in  Canada.  * 

In  addition  to  the  wood  which  flourished  below 
the  fall,  these  banks  produce  the  cypress  tree,  arrow- 
wood,  and  the  thorn.  On  cither  side  of  the  river, 
though  invisible  from  it,  are  extensive  plains  which 
abound  in  buffaloes,  elks,  wolves,  foxes,  and  bears. 
At  a  considerable  distance  to  the  westward,  is  an  im- 
mense ridge  of  high  land  or  mountains,  which  take  art 
oblique  direction  from  below  the  falls,  and  are  inha- 
bited by  great  numbers  of  deer,  who  are  seldom  dis- 
turbed, but  when  the  Indians  go  to  hunt  the  beaver 
in  those  parts  ;  and,  being  tired  of  the  flesh  of  the  lat- 
ter, vary  their  food  with  that  of  the  former.  This 
ridge  bears  the  name  of  the  Deer  Mountain.  Op- 
posite to  our  present  situation,  are  beautiful  mea- 
dows, with  various  snimals  grazing  on  them,  and 
groves  of  poplars  irregularly  scattered  over  them. 

My  tent  was  no  sooner  pitched,  than  I  summoned' 
the  Indians  together,  and  gave  some  of  chem  about 
four  inches  of  Brazil  tobacco,  a  dram  of  spirits,  and 
lighted  the  pipe.  As  they  had  been  very  trouble- 
some to  my  predecessor,  I  informed  them  that  I  had 
heard  of  tneir  misconduct,  and  was  come  among 
them  to  inquire  into  the  truth  of  it.  I^  added  also, 
that  it  would  be  an  established  rule  with  me  to  treat 
them  with  kindness,  if  their  behavior  should  be  such 
as  to  deserve  it ;  but,  at  tiie  same  time,  that  I  should 
be  equally  severe  if  they  failed  in  those  returns  which 
I  had  right  to  expect  from  them.  I  then  presented 
them  with  a  quantity  of  rum,  which  I  recommended 
to  be  used  with  discretion^  and- added  some  tobacco^ 
as  a  token  of  peace.  They,  in  return,  made  me  the 
fairest  promises ;  and  having  expressed  the  pride  they 
felt  on>l>eholding  me  in  their  country,  took  their  leave. 

I  now  proceeded  to  examine  my  situatipn  ;  and  it 
was  with  gr.eat  satisfaction,  I  observed,  that  the  two 
men  who*  had  been  sent  hither  some  time  before  us, 
to  cut  and  square  timber  for  our  future  operations, 
had  employed  the  intervening  period  with  activity  and^ 
skill.    They  had  formed  a  sui&cient  quantity  of  pal« 


J^orth'West  Continent  of  America.         219 


lisades  of  eighteen  feet  long,  and  seven  inches  in  dia- 
meter, to  inclose  a  square  spot  of  an  hundred  and 
twenty  feet ;  they  had  also  dug  a  ditch  of  three  feet 
deep  to  receive  them  ;  and  had  prepared  timber^ 
plank^  Sec.  for  tJ^  erection  of  an  house. 

I  was,  howew,  so  much  occupied  in  settling  mat* 
ters  with  the  Indians,  and  equipping  them  for  their 
winter  hunting,  that  I  could  not  give  my  attention  to  any 
other  object,  till  the  7th,  when  I  set  all  hands  at  work 
to  construct  the  fort,  build  the  house,  and  form  store- 
houses. On  the  preceding  day  the  river  begau  to  run 
with  ice,  which  we  call  the  last  of  the  navigation. 
On  the  1  Ith,  we  had  a  south-west  wind,  with  snow. 
On  the  1 6th,  the  ice  stopped  in  the  other  fork,  which 
was  not  above  a  league  from  us,  across  the  intervening 
neck  of  land.  The  water  in  this  branch  continued  to 
flow  till  the  2  2d,  when  it  was  arrested  also  by  the 
frost,  so  that  we  had  a  passage  across  the  river,  which 
would  last  to  the  latter  end  of  the  succeeding  April. 
This  was  a  fortunate  circumstance,  as  we  depended 
for  our  support  upon  what  the  hunters  could  provide 
for  us,  and  they  had  been  prevented  by  the  running 
of  the  ice  from  crossing  the  river.  They  now,  how- 
ever, very  shortly  ^procured  us  as  much  fresh  meat 
as  we  required,  ttiough  it  was  for  some  time  a  toil- 
some business  to  my  people,  for  as  there  was  not  yet 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  snow  to  run  sledges,  they 
were  under  the  necessity  of  loading  themselves  with 
the  spoils  of  the  chase. 

On  the  27th  the  frost  was  so  severe  that  the  axe*, 
of  the  workmen  became  almost  as  brittle  as  glass. 
The  weather  was  very  various  until  the  2dof  Decem- 
ber, when  my  Farenheit's  thermometer  wa?  mjured 
by  an  accident,  which  rendered  it  altogether  useless. 

The  following  table,  therefore,  from  the'  16th  of 
Noven^ber,  to  this  unfortunate  circumstance,  is  tha 
only  correct  account  of  the  weather  which  I  can  offer. 


ai4  youmal  of  a  Voyage  through  th& 


5                          '               ?3    Mont^  and 
n                                             5«        Y^r. 

»o-^SS!3^tSSS8J2gS35:55     I  Date. 

<O<C^'^CX}Q0  ^OOOOQp^XOOQC^QOOO        1  HOUFi  A*  M< 

5;k>s;^u                     1  b<dMO. 

tSSi»k>i^                »«^S*>oiS^S     1  *W"*  0. 

w 

(A 

H 

'   m 

Wind. 

Cl  0.0-0.0.0.2.0.     B:        " 

O    q' i-f*  nj' r*' JS'rt    O          El                '^ 

Weather. 

5!«SEo«3J3S>S?o5t3i3^sfc5>3     1  Hour. 

w        jk©                        o     1  below  0. 

SCw     tow    ctSSKS5S8S     )  above  0. 

M(/3 

! 

»! 

li    1 

Wind. 

clear 

ditto 

cloud 
clear 

cloud. 

Weather. 

«/iW'*OiO)0)0'.aoi»oio>aoioio>oj4  Hour,  P.  M. 

«5    ©to-                              1  below  0. 

g5;-j    «o       C^^So-c+ies     1  above  0. 

««^2 

ISH 

Wind-- 

, 

o.2.g.D.i,aC2.a     £2.     C.0.2.0-G. 
5'  o  «' "'  fi"  ?^'  !>  O      o     c  S'  re  ft'  o 

Weather. 

i 

strong  wind. 

at  10  last  night  1  bel»w  0. 

River  stopped. 

Ice  drove,  &  water  rises. 

Ice  drove  again. 

Snowed  last  night  2  inc. 

After  dark,  overcast. 
Do.  a  little  wind,  S.W. 

3  inc.  snow  last  night 

» 

i 

In  this  situation,  removed  from  all  those  ready  aids 
which  adds  so  much  to  the  comfort,  and  indeed  is  a 
principal  characteristic  of  civilized  life,  I  was  under 
the  necessity  of  employing  my  judgment  and  expe- 
rience in  accessary  circumstances,  by  no  means  con- 
nected with  the  habits  of  my  life,  qr  the  enterprise 
in  which  I  was  immediately  engaged.  I  was  now  a- 
mong  a  people  who  had  no  knowledge  whatever  of  re- 


North'West  Continent  of  America.        215 


eady  aids 
ieed  is  a 
'as  under 
and  expe- 
eans  con- 
nterprise 
IS  now  a- 
ver  of  re- 


medial application  to  those  disorders  and  accidents  to 
which  a  man  is  liable  in  every  part  of  the  globe)  in 
the  distant  wilderness,  as  in  the  peopled  city.     They 
had  not  the  least   acquaintance  with   that  primitive 
medicine  which  consists  in  an  experience  of  the  heal- 
ing virtues  of  herbs  and  plants,    and  is  frequently 
found   among  uncivilized  and  savage  nations.     This 
circumstance  now  obliged  me  to  be  their  physician 
and   surgeon,  as   a  woman  with    a  swelled  breast, 
which  had  beeri  lacerated  with   flint   stones  for   the 
cure  of  it,  presented  herself  to  my  attention,  and  by 
cleanliness,  poultices,  and  healing  salve,  I  succeeded 
in  producing  a  cure.     One  of  my  people,  also,  who 
was  at  work  in  the  woods,  was  attacked  with  a  sud- 
den pain  near  the  first  joint  of  his  thumb,  which  dis- 
abled him  from  holding  an  axe.     On  examining  his 
arm,  I  was  astonished  to  find  a  narrow  red  stripe,  a- 
bout  half  an  inch  wide,  from  his  thumb  to  his  shoul- 
der; the   pain  was  violent,   and  accompanied   with 
chilliness  and  shivering.     This  was  a  case  that  ap- 
peared to  be  beyond  my  skill,  but  it  was  necessary  to 
do  something  towards  relieving  the  mind  of  the  pa- 
tient, though  I    might  be  unsuccessful  in   removing 
his  complaint.     I  accordingly  prepared  a  kind  of  vo- 
latile liniment  of  rum  -and  soap,  with  which  I  order- 
ed his  arm  to  be  rubbed,  but  with  little  or  no  effect. 
He  was  in  a  raving  state   throughout  the  night,  and 
the  red  stripe  not  only  increased,  but  was  also  accom- 
panied witi.  the  appearance  of  several  blotches  on  his 
body,  and  pains  in  his  stomach:  the  propriety  of  tak- 
ing bome  blood  from  him  now  occurred  to  me,  and  I 
ventured,  from    absolute   necessity,  to  perform  that 
operation  for   the  first  time,  and  with  an  effect  that 
justified  the  treatment.     The  following  night  afford- 
ed him  rest,  and  in  a  short  time  he  regained  his  for- 
mer health  and  activity. 

I  was  very  much  surprised  on  walking  in  the  woods 
at  such  an  inclement  period  of  the  year-,  to  be  saluted 
with  the  singing  of  birds,  while  they  seemed  by  their 
vivacity  to  be  actuated  by  the  invigorating  power  of  a 
more  genial  season.     Of  these  birds  the  male   was 


SIB  youtnal  of  a  Voyage  through  thi 


something  less  than  the  robin  ;  part  of  his  bodjr  is  of 
«.  delicate  fawn  color,  and  his  neck,  breast,  and  bel- 
ly, of  a  deep  scaiiet ;  the  'vings  are  black,  edged 
with  fawn  color,  and  two  white  stripes  running 
across  them;  the  tail  is  variegated,  and  the  head 
crowned  with  a  tuft.  The  female  is  smaller  than 
the  male,  and  of  a  fawn  color  throughout,  except  on 
the  neck,  which  is  enlivened  by  an  hue  of  glossy  yel- 
low. I  have  no  doubt  but  they  are  constant  inliabit- 
«Lnts  of  this  climate,  as  well  as  some  other  small  birds 
which  we  saw,  of  a  grey  color. 


CHAPTER  II. 


RenioTcd  from  the  tent  to  the  house.  Build  habitations  for  the  people.  Tlie  hard- 
ships they  suffer.  Violent  hurricane  Singular  circumstances  attending  it.  The 
commencement  of  the  new  year.  An  Indian  cured  of  a  dan:  eruus  wound. 
Stateofth- weather.  Curious  customs  among  tlic  Indians,  on  the  de.ith  of 
a  relation.  Account  of  a  quarrel.  An  Indian's  reasoning  on  it.  Murder  of 
one  of  the  Indians.  The  cause  of  it.  Snine  account  of  the  KiKky  Mountain 
Indiarts.  Curious  circumstances  res^iec ting  a  woman  iiv  labour,  &c.  A  dis- 
pute between  two  Indians,  w4iich  arose  from  gaming.  An  account  of  one  of 
their  games.  Indian  superstition.  Mildness  of  the  season.  Tlie  Indians  pre- 
pare snow  shoes.  Singular  customs.  Further  account  of  their  manners,  lite 
slavish  state  of  the  women.  A  ppcarancc  of  spring.  Dispatch  canoes  with  the 
trade  to  Fort  Chepewyan.    Make  preparations  for  the  voyage  of  discovery. 

u^fwiSr  23.11  THIS  day  rcmoved  from  the  tent  into 
the  house  which  had  been  erected  for  me,  and  set  all 
the  men  to  begin  the  buildings  intended  for  their  own 
habitation.  Materials  sufficient  to  erect  a  range  of 
live  houses  for  them,  of  about  seventeen  by  twelve 
feet,  were  already  collected.  It  would  be  considered 
by  the  inhabitants  of  a  milder  climate,  as  a  great  evil) 
to  be  exposed  to  the  weather  at  this  rigorous  season 
of  the  year,  but  these  people  are  inured  to  it,  and  it 
is  necessary  to  describe  in  some  measure  the  hard- 
ships whieh  they  undergo  without  a  murmur,  in  order 
to  convey  a  general  notion  of  them. 

The  men   who  are  now  with  me,  left  this  place  in 
the  beginning  of  last  May,  and  went   to  the   Rainy 
Lake  in  canoes,  laden  with  packs  of  fur,  which,  from 
the  immense  length  of  the  voyage,  and  other  concur- 1 
ring  circumstances,  is  a  most  severe  trial  of  patience 


body  is  ot 
t,  and  bel- 
ick,  edged 
es  running 
I  the  head 
nailer  than 
,  except  on 
r  glossy  yel- 
ant  inhabit- 
small  birds 


people.  T^ehard' 
'esattendingvt.  The 
dan:  erous  wound, 
s,  on  the  death  of 
'  on  it.  Murder  of 
le  Rocky  Mounta\n 
abour,  &c.  A  dis- 
1  account  of  one  ot 
I.  TJie  Indians  pre- 
their  manners.  l]je 
iiih  canoes  with  the 
age  of  discovery. 

the  tent  into 
e,  and  set  all 
for  their  own 
t  a  range  of 
jn  by  twelve 
be  considered 
s  a  great  evil, 
goi'ous  season 
I  to  it,  and  it 
Lire  the  hard- 
rmur,  in  ordev 

[t  this  place  in 
to  the  Rainy 
which,  from 
other  concur- 
ialof  patience! 


No'rth'Wefit  Continent  of  Amerka*        Itlf 

und  perseverance :  there  they  do  not  remain  a  suffici- 
ent time  for  ordinary  repose,  when  they  take  a  load 
of  goods  in  exchange,  and  proceed  on  their  return, 
in  a  great  measure,  day  and  night.  They  had  been  ar- 
rived near  two  months,  and,  all  that  time,  had  been  con- 
tinually engaged  in  very  toilsome  labor,  with  nothing 
more  than  a  common  shed  to  protect  them  from  the 
frost  and  snow.  Such  is  the  life  which  these  people 
lead  ;  and  is  continued  with  unremitting  exertion,  till 
their  strength  is  lost  in  premature  old  age. 

The  Canadians  remarked,  that  the  weather  we  had 
on  the  25th,   26th,  and  27th  of  this  month,  denoted 
such  as  we  might  expect  in  the  three  succeeding 
months.     On  the  29th,  the  wind  being  at  north-east, 
and  the  weather  calm  and  cloudy,  a  rumbling  noise 
was  heard  in  the  air  like  distant  thunder,  when  the 
sky   cleared  away  in  the  south-west ;  from  whence 
there  blew  a  perfect  hurricane,  which  lasted  till  eight* 
Soon  after  it  commenced,  the  atmosphere  became  so 
warm  that  tt  dissolved  all  the  snow  on  the  ground ; 
even  the  ice  was   covered  with  water,  and  had  the 
same   appearance  as  when  it  is  breaking  up  in  the 
spring.     From  eight  to  nine  the  weather  became  calm, 
but  immediately  after  a  wind  arose  from  the  north- 
east, with  equal  violence,  with  clouds,  rain,  and  hail, 
which  continued  throughout  the  night,  and  till  the 
evening  of  the  next  day,  when   it  turned  to  snow. 
One  of  the  people  who  wintered  at  Fort   Dauphin, 
in  the  year  1780,  when  the  small-pox  first  appeared 
there,  informed  me,  that  the  weather  there  was  of  a 
similar  description. 

January  l,  17^3.  On  the  first  day  of  January,  in 
conformity  to  the  usual  custom,  awoke  me  at  the  break 
of  day,  with  the  discharge  of  fire-arms,  with  which 
they  congratulated  the  appearance  of  the  new  year. 
In  return,  they  were  treated  with  plenty  of  spirits, 
and  when  there  is  any  flour,  cakes  are  always  added, 
to  their  regales,  which  was  the  case  on  the  present 
occasion. 

On  my  arrival  here  last  fall,  I  found  that  one  of  the 
young  Indians  had  lost  the  use  of  his  right  hand  by 

T 


218  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

the  bursting  of  a  gun,  and  that  his  thumb  had  been 
maimed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  hang  only  by  a  smaH 
strip  of  flesh.  Indeed,  when  he  was  brought  to  me, 
his  wound  was  in  such  an  offensive  state,  and  emitted 
such  a  putrid  smell,  that  it  required  all  the  resolu- 
tion I  possessed  to  examine  it.  His  friends  had  done 
every  thing  in  their  power  to  relieve  him  ;  but  as  it 
consisted  only  in  singing  about  him,  and  blowing  upon 
his  hand,  the  wound,  as  may  be  well  imagined,  had 
got  into  the  deplorable  state  in  which  I  found  it.  I 
was  rather  alarmed  at  the  difficulty  of  the  case,  but  as 
the  young  man's  life  was  in  a  state  of  hazard,  I  was 
determined  to  risk  my  surgical  reputation,  and  accpr- 
dingly  took  him  under  my  care,  i  immediately  form- 
e4  a  poultice  of  bark,  stripped  from  the  roots  of  the 
spruce-fir,  which  I  applied  to  the  wound,  having  first 
washed  it  with  the  juice  of  the  bark :  this  proved  a 
very  painful  dressing :  in  a  few  days,  however,  the 
wound  was  clean,  and  the  proud  fiesh  round  it  destroy- 
^*  I  wished  very  much  inthis  state  of  the  business  to 
have  separated  the  thumb  from  the  hand,  which  I 
well  knew  must  be  effected  before  the  cure  could  be 
performed ;  but  he  would  not  consent  to  that  opera- 
tion, till,  by  the  application  of  the  vitriol,  the  flesh  by 
which  the  thumb  was  suspended,  was  shrivelled  al- 
most to  a  thread.  When  I  succeeded  in  this  object, 
I  perceived  that  the  wound  was  closing  rather  faster 
than  I  desired.  The  salve  I  applied  on  the  occasion 
was  made  of  the  Canadian  balsam,  wax,  and  tallow 
dropped  from  a  burning  candle  into  water.  In  short, 
I  was  so  successful,  that  about  Christmas  my  patient 
engaged  in  an  hunting  party,  and  brought  me  the 
tongue  of  an  elk :  nor  was  he  finally  ungrateful. 
When  he  left  me  I  received  the  warmest  acknow- 
ledgments, both  from  himself,  and  his  relations  with 
whom  he  departed,  for  my  care  of  him*  I  certain- 
ly did  not  spare  my  time  or  attention  on  the  occasion, 
as  I  regularly  dressed  his  wound  three  times  a  day, 
during  the  course  of  a  month. 

On  the  5th  in  the  morning  the  weather  was  calm, 
«lear,  and  very  cold ;  the  wind  blew  from  the  south- 


west, i 
thaw, 
wind  1 
wherei 
produt 
if  it  bl( 
the  coi 
brings 
tribute 
of  the 
fie  Oct 
from  us 
they  p{ 
not  tinr 
Thci 
this  tin 
of  the  ( 
lodge, 
and  sut 
especia 
terprett 
informc 
custom 
was  a  V 
trude  I 
their  loj 
the  dec< 
his  war 
solemn 
confirm 
in  ordei 
and  friei 
such  oc 
pusillan 
sonal  to 

The 
hunt  at 


•  When  t 
other,  whei 
an  occasion 
tog  in  good 
Cet  la  escba: 


North-West  Continent  of  America.        219 

west,  and  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon  it  began  ta 
thaw.  I  had  already  observed  at  Athabasca,  that  this 
wind  never  failed  to  bring  us  clear^  mild  weather, 
whereas,  when  it  blew  from  the  opposite  quarter,  it 
produced  snow.  Here  it  is  much  more  perceptible,  for 
if  it  blows  hard  south-west  for  four  hours,  a  thaw  is 
the  consequence,  and  if  the  wind  is  at  north  east  it 
brings  sleet  and  snow.  To  this  cause  it  may  be  at- 
tributed, that  there  is  now  so  little  snow  in  this  part 
of  the  world.  These  warm  winds  come  off  the  Paci- 
fic Ocean,  which  cannot,  in  a  direct  line,  be  very  far 
from  us  ;  the  distance  being  so  shorty  that  though, 
they  pass  over  mountains  covered  with  snow,  there  is 
not  time  for  them  to  cool. 

There  being  several  of  the  natives  at  the  house  at 
this  time,  one  of  them,  who  had  received  an  account 
of  the  death  of  his  father,  proceeded  in  silence  to  his 
lodge,  and  began  ta  fire  off  his  gun.  As  it  was  night, 
and  such  a  noise  being  so  uncommon  at  such  an  hour, 
especially  when  it  was  so  often  repeated,  I  sent  my  in- 
terpreter to  inquire  into  the^  cause  of  it,  when  he  was 
informed  by  the  man  himself,  that  it  was  a  common 
custom  with  them  on  the  death  of  a  near  relation,  and 
was  a  warning  to  their  friends  not  to  approach,  or  in- 
trude upon  them,  as  they  were,  in  consequenfce  of 
their  loss,  become  careless  of  life.  The  Chief,  to  Whoiti 
the  deceased  person  was  also  related,  appeared  with 
his  war-cap  on  his  head,  which  is  only  worn  on  these 
solemn  occasions,  or  when  preparing  for  battle,  and 
confirmed  to  me  this  singular  custom  of  firing  guns, 
in  order  to  express  their  grief  for  the  death  of  relations 
and  friends.*  The  women  alone  indulge  in  tears  on 
such  occasions ;  the  men  considering  it  as  a  mark  of 
pusillanimity  and  a  want  of  fortitude  to  betray  any  per- 
sonal tokens  of  sensibility  or  sorrow. 

The  Indians  informed  me,  that  they  had  been  to 
hunt  at  a  large  lake,  called   by  the  Ilnistenc  lux,  the 

•  When  they  are  drinkinj;  together,  they  frequently  present  their  guns  to  each 
other,  when  any  of  the  parQes  have  not  other  means  of  procuring  rum.  On  such 
an  occasion  tliey  always  discharge  their  pieces,  as  a  proof,  I  imagine,  of  tlieir  be<- 
uxg  in  good  order,  and  to  determine  the  auantUy  of  liquor  ibey  may  propose  to 
get  w  cjichaoge  lor  them. 


320  Journal  of  a  Voyage  thfottgh  ike 

.Slave  Lake,  which  derived  its  name  from  that  of  itg 
original  inhabitants,  who  were  called  Slaves.  They 
represented  it  us  a  large  body  of  water,  and  that  it  lies 
about  one  hundred  uikI  twenty  miles  due  east  from 
this  placer  It  is  well  known  to  the  Knisteneaux,  who 
are  among  the  inl^^^bitants  of  the  plains  on  the  barks 
of  the  Saskatehiwine  river  ;  for  formerly,  when  they 
used  to  come  to  make  war  in  this  country,  they  came 
in  their  canoes  to  that  lake,  and  left  them  there ;  from 
thence  there  is  a  beaten  path  all  the  way  to  the  Fork, 
or  east  branch  of  this  river,  which  was  their  war-road. 
January  M),  Amongthe  people  who  were  now  here, 
there  were  two  Rocky  Mountain  Indians,  who  declar- 
ed, that  the  people  to  whom  we  had  given  that  deno- 
mination, are  by  no  means  entitled  to  it,  and  that  their 
country  has  ever  been  m  the  vicinity  of  our  present 
situation.  They  said  in  support  of  their  assertion, 
iliat  these  people  were  entirely  ignorant  of  those  parts 

^  which  are  adjacent  to  the  mountain,  as  well  as  the  na- 
vigation of  the  river ;  that  the  Beaver  Indians  had 
greatly  encroached  upor  them,  and  would  soon  force 
them  to  retire  to  the  foot  of  these  mountains.  They 
represented  themselves  as  the  only  real  natives  of 
that  country  then  with  me :  and  added,  that  the  coun- 
tryi  and  that  part  of  the  river  that  intervenes  between 
this  place  and  the  mountains)  bear  much  the  same  ap- 
pearance as  that  around  us :  that  the  former  abounds 
with  animals,  but  that  the  course  of  the  latter  is  inter- 
rupted near,  and  in  the  mountains;  by  successive  ra- 
pids and  considerable  falls.  These  men  alpo  informed 
me,  that  there  is  another  great  river  towards  the  mid- 
day sun,  whose  current  runs  in  that  direction,  and  that 
the  distance  from  it  is  not  great  across  the  mountains. 
The  natives  brought  me  plenty  of  furs.  The  small 
quantity  of  snow,  at  this  time,  was  particularly  favor- 
able for  huiijting  the  beaver,  as  from  this  circum- 
stance, those  animals  could,  with  the  greatest  facility, 
be  traced  from  their  lodges  to  their  lurking  places. 

On  the  12th  our  hunter  arrived,  having  left  his  mo- 
ther-in-law, who  was  lately  become  a  widow  with  three 
sm&U  children,  and  in  actual  labour  of  a  fourtht    H«r 


tforth-Weit  Continent  of  America.        3S1 

daughter  related  this  circumstance  to  the  women  here, 
without  the  least  appearance  of  concern,  though  she 
represented  her  as  in  a  state  of  great  danger,  which 
probably  might  {Sroceed  from  her  being  abandoned  in 
this  unnatural  manner.  At  the  same  time  without 
any  apparent  consciousness  of  herown  barbarous  neg- 
Ugence ;  if  the  poor,  abandoned  woman  should  die, 
she  would  most  probably  lament  her  with  great  out- 
cries, and,  periiaps,  cut  off  one  or  two  joints  of  her 
fingers  as  tokens  of  her  grief.  The  Indians,  indeed, 
consider  the  state  of  a  woman  in  labour  as  among  the 
most  trifling  occurrences  of  corporeal  pain  to  which 
human  nature  is  subject,  and  they  may  be|in  some 
measure,  justified  in  this  apparent  insensibility  fronv 
the  circumstances  of  that  situation  among  themselves. 
It  is  by  no  means  uncommon  in  the  hasty  removal  of 
their  camps  from  one  position  to  another,  for  a  woman 
to  be  taken  in  labour,  to  deliver  herself  in  her  way^ 
without  any  assistance  or  notice  from  her  associates 
in  the  journey,  and  to  overtake  them  before  they 
complete  the  arrangements  of  their  evening  station,, 
with  her  new-born  babe  on  her  back. 

I  was  this  morning  threatened  wi:h  a  very  unplea- 
sant event,  which,  however,  I  was  fortunately  enabled 
to  controU.  Two  young  Indians  being  engaged  in  one 
of  their  games,,  a  dispute  ensued,^.  which  rose  to  such 
an  height,  that  they  drew  their  knives,  and  if  I  had 
not  happened  to.  have  appeared,  they  would,  I  doubt 
not,  have  employed  them  to  v«ry  bloody  purposed. 
So  violent  was  their  rage,  that  after  I.  had  turned' 
them  both  out  of  the  house,  and  severely  reprimanded 
them,  they  stood  in  the  fort  for  at  least  half  an  hour, 
looking  at  each  other  with  a  most  vindictive  aspect^ 
and  in  sullen  silence. 

The  game  which  produced  this  jstate  of  bitter  en- 
mity, is  called  that  of  the  Platter,  from  a  principal 
article  of  it.  The  Indians  play  at  it  in  the.  following 
manner. 

The  instruments  of  it  consist  of  a  platter,  or  dish,^.. 
made  of  wood  or  bark,  and  six  round,  or  square,  but^ 
fiat  pieces  of  metal)  wood,  or  stone^  whose  sides.  err<- 


^23  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  tht 

Kurface  are  of  difierent  colors.  These  are  put  into 
,the  dish,  and  after  being  for  some  time  shaken  toge- 
ther) are  thrown  into  the  air,  and  received  again  in 
the  dish  with  considerable  dexterity  -,  when,  by  the 
number  that  are  turned  up  of  the  same  mark  or  color, 
the  game  is  regulated.  If  there  should  be  equal 
numbers,  the  throw  is  not  reckoned ;  if  two  or  four) 
the  platter  changes  hands. 

On  the  13th,  one  of  these  people  came  to  me,  and 
presented  in  himself  a  curious  example  of  Indian  su- 
perstition. He  requested  me  to  furnish  him  with  a 
remedy  that  might  be  applied  to  the  joints  of  his  legs 
and  thighs,  of  which  he  had,  in  a  great  measure,  lost 
the  use  of  for  five  winters.  This  aflliction  he  attri- 
buted 10  his  cruelty  about  that  time,  when  having 
fo^nd  a  wolf  with  two  whelps  in  an  old  beaver  lodge, 
.  he  set  fire  to  it  and  consumed  them. 

The  winter  had  been  so  mildj  that  the  swans  had 
but  lately  left  us,  and  at  this  advanced  period  there 
was  very  Utile  snow  on  the  ground  :  it  was,  how  ever, 
at  this  time  a  foot  and  a  half  in  depth,  in  the  environs 
of  the  establishment  below  this,  which  is  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  seventy  leagues. 

On  the  28th  the  Indians  were  now  employed  in 
njaking  their  Enow-shoes,  as  the  snow  had  not  hitherto 
fulien  in  a  sufficient  quantity  to  render  tliem  necessary. 

February  2.  The  weather  now  beqame  very  cold, 
and  it  froze  so  hard  in  the  night  that  my  watch  stop- 
ped ;  a  circumstance  that  had  never  happened  to  this 
watch  since  my  residence  in  the  country. 

There  was  a  lodge  of  Indians  here,  who  were  ab- 
solutely starving  with  cold  and  hunger.  They  had 
Wely  lost  a  near  relation,  and  had>  according  to  cus^ 
tom,  thrown  away  every  thing  belonging  to  them, 
and  even  exchanged  the  few  articles  of  raiment  which 
they  possessed,  in  order,  as  I  presume,  to  get  rid 
of  every  thing  that  may  bring  the  deceased  to  their 
remembrance.  They  also  destroy  every  thing  be- 
longing to  any  deceased  person,  except  what  they 
consign  to  the  grave  with  the  late  owner  of  them. 
3Ve  had  some  diflkulty  to  make  tliem  comprehend 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        9J3 

that  the  debts  of  a  man  who  diet  should  be  discharg- 
ed) if  he  left  any  furs  behind  him  :  but  those  \w\\o 
understand  this  principle  of  justice^  and  profcsH  to 
adhere  to  it>  never  fail  to  prevent  the  appearance  of 
any  skins  beyond  such  as  may  be  necessary  to  satisfy 
the  debts  of  their  dead  relation. 

On  the  8th  I  bad  an  observation  for  the  longitude* 
In  the  course  of  this  day  one  of  my  men,  who  had 
been  some  time  with  the  Indians,  came  to  inform  me, 
that  one  of  them  had  threatened  to  stab  him  ;  and  on 
his  preferring  a  complaint  to  the  man  with  whom  he 
now  lived,  and  to  whom  I  had  given  him  in  charge, 
he  replied,  that  he  had  been  very  imprudent  to  play 
and  quarrel  with  the  young  Indians  out  of  his  lodge, 
where  no  one  would  dare  to  come  and  quarrel  with 
him  ;  but  that  M  he  had  lost  his  life  where  he  had 
been,  it  woulr*  )iave  been  the  consequence  of  his  own 
folly.  Thus,  :ven  among  these  children  of  nature, 
it  appears  that  a  man's  house  is  his  castle,  where  the 
protection  of  hospitality  is  rigidly  maintained. 

The  hard  frost  which  had  prevailed  from  the  begin- 
ning of  February,  continued  to  the  1 6th  of  March, 
when  the  wind  blowing  from  the  south-west,  the  wea- 
ther became  mild. 

On  the  2 2d  a  wolf  was  so  bold  as  to  venture  among 
the  Indian  lodges,  and  was  very  near  carrying  off  a 
child. 

I  had  another  observation  of  Jupiter  and  his  satel« 
lites  for  the  lowgitude.  On  the  1 3th  some  geese 
were  seen,  and  these  birds  are  always  considered  as 
the  harbingers  of  spring.  On  the  1st  of  April  my 
hunters  shot  five  of  them.  This  was  a  much  earlier 
period  than  I  ever  remember  to  have  observed  the  vi- 
sits of  wild  fowl  in  this  part  of  the  world.  The  wea- 
ther had  been  mild  for  the  last  fortnight,  and  there 
was  a  promise  of  its  continuance.  On  the  5th  the 
snow  had  entirely  disappeared. 

At  half  past  four  this  morning  I  was  awakened  to 
be  informed  that  an  Indian  had  been  killed.  I  ac- 
cordingly hastened  to  the  camp  where  I  found  twa 
women  employed  in  rolling  up  the  dead  body  of  ^, 


JW4         youmdl  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

'  man,  called  the  White  Partridge,  in  a  beaver  robe, 
which  I  had  lent  him.  Me  had  received  four  mor- 
tal wounds  from  a  dagger,  two  within  the  collar-bone, 
one  in  the  left  breast,  and  another  in  the  small  of  the 
back,  with  two  cuts  across  his  head.  The  murderer, 
who  had  been  my  hunter  throughout  the  winter,  had 
^ed  ;  and  it  was  pretended  that  several  relations  of 
the  deceased  were  gone  in  pursuit  of  him.  The  his- 
tory of  ihis  unfortunate  event  is  as  follows  :— 

1  hese  two  men  had  been  comrades  for  four  years  ;, 
the  murderer  had  three  wives :  and  the  young  man 
who  was  killed,  becoming  enamoured  of  one  of  them,, 
the  husband  consented  to  yield  her  to  him,  with  the 
reserved  power  of  claiming  her  as  his  property,  when 
it  should  be  his  pleasure.  This  connection  was  unin- 
terrupted for  near  three  years,  when,  whimsical  as  it 
may  appear,  the  husband  became  jealous,  and  the 
public  amour  was  suspended.  The  parties,  howe- 
ver, made  their  private  assignations,  which  caused 
the  woman  to  be  so  ill  treated  by  her  husband,  that 
the  paramour  was  determined  to  take  her  away  by 
force  :  and  this  project  ended  in  his  death.  This  is 
a  very  common  practice  «mong  the  Iridians,  and  ge- 
nerally terminates  in  very  serious  and  fatal  quar- 
rels. In  consequence  of  this  event  all  the  Indians, 
went  away  in  great  apparent  hurry  and  confusion,  and. 
in  the  evening  not  one  of  them  was  to  be  seen  about 
the  fort. 

The  Beaver  and  Rocky  Mountain  Indians,  who^ 
traded  wUh  us  in  this  river,  did  net  exceed  an  hun- 
dred and  fifty  men,  capable  of  bearing  arms;  two 
thirds  of  whom  called  themselves  Beaver  Indians. 
The  lattt  •  differ  only  from  the  former,  as  they  have,, 
more  or  less,  imbibed  the  customs  and  manners  of 
the  Knisteneaux.  As  I  have  already  observed,  they 
are  passionately  fond  of  liquor,  and  in  the  moments 
of  their  festivity  will  barter  any  thing  they  have  in 
their  possession  for  it. 

Though  the  Beaver  Indians  made  their  peace  with. 
thev^Knisteneaux,  at  Peace  Point,  as  already  men- 
tioded,  fet  they  did  not  secure  a  state  of  amity  f rom< 


I 


North-West  Continent  of  America,  225 

•thers  of  the  same  nation,  who  had  driven  away  the 
natives  of  the  Saskatchiwine  and  Missinipi  Rivers, 
and  joined  at  the  head  water  of  the  latter,  called  the 
Beaver  River  :  from  thence  they  proceeded  west  by 
the  Slave  Lake  just  described,  on  their  war  excur- 
sions, whicli  they  often  repeated,  «ven  till  the  Beaver 
Indians  had  procured  arms,  which  was  in  the  year 
1782.  If  it  so  happened  that  they  missed  them,  they 
proceeded  westward  till  they  were  certain  of  wreak- 
ing their  vengeance- on  those  of  the  Rocky  Mountain, 
who  being  without  arms,  became  an  easy  prey  to 
their  blind  and  savage  fury.  All  the  European  arti- 
cles they  possessed,  previous  to  the  year  1780,  were 
obtained  from  the  Knisteneaux  and  Chepewyana,  who 
brought  them  from  Fort  Churchill,  and  for  which 
they  were  made  to  pay  an  extravagant  price.  *     •' 

As  late  as  the  year    1786,  when  the  tirst   traders 
from  Canada  arrived  on  the  banks  of  this  river,  the 
natives   employed   bows    and  snares,  but  at  present 
very  little  use  is  made  of  the  former,  and  the  latter 
are  no  longer  known.     They  still  entertain  a  great 
dread  of  their  natural  enemies,  but  they  are  since 
become  so  well   armed,    that  the   others   now   call 
them   their  allies.    The   men  are   in  general  of  a 
conivriy  appearaoce,  and  fond  of  personal  decoratioi^^i  „ 
The  women  are  of  a  contrary   disposition,  and  thwi^ . 
slaves  of  the  men  :  in  common  with   all  the  IndiaAf| 
tribes  polygamy  is  allowed  among  them.     They  are   ■ 
very   subject  to  jealousy,  and  fatal  consequences  fre-' 
quently  result  from  the  indulgence  of  that  passion, 
But  notwithstanding  the  vigilance  and  severity  which 
is  exercised  by  the  husband,  it  seldom  happens  that 
a  woman  is  without  her  favorite,  who,  in  the  absence 
of  the  hucband,  exacts  the  same   submission,    and 
practises   the    same  tyranny.     And  so  premature  is 
the  tender  passion,  that  it  is  sometimes  known  to  in» 
vigorate  so  early  a  period  of  life  as  the  age  of  eleven 
or  twelve  years.     The  women  are  not  very  prolific  ; 
a  circumstance  which  may  be  attributed,  in  a  great 
measure,  to  the  hardships  that  they  suffer,  for  except 
tt  hw  sjnaU  4o^s,  the^  alone  perform  that  labor 


326  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


which  is  allotted  to  beasts  of  burthen  in  other  coun- 
tries. It  is  not  uncommon,  while  the  men  carry  no* 
thing  but  a  gun,  that  their  wives  and  daughters  follow 
with  such  weighty  burdens,  that  if  they  lay  them 
down  they  cannot  replace  them,  and  that  is  a  kind^ 
ness  which  the  men  will  not  deign  to  perform ;  so 
that  during  their  journeys  they  are  frequently  oblig- 
ed to  lean  against  a  tree  for  a  small  portion  of  tempo- 
rary relief.  When  they  arrive  at  the  place  which 
their  tyrants  have  chosen  for  their  encampment,  they 
arrange  the  whole  in  a  few  minutes,  by  forming  a 
curve  of  poles,  meeting  at  the  top,  and  expanding 
into  circles  of  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  diameter  at  the 
bottom,  covered  with  dressed  skins  of  the  moose  sew- 
ed together.  During  these  preparations,  the  men  sit 
down  quietly  to  the  enjoyment  of  their  pipes,  if  thejr 
happen  to  have  any  tobacco.  But  notwithstanding 
this  abject  state  of  slavery  and  submission,  the  wo- 
men have  a  considerable  inflr^nce  on  the  opinion  of 
the  men  in  every  thing  except  their  own  domestic 
situation. 

These  Indians  are  excellent  hunters,  and  their  ex- 
ercise in  that  i^je^acity  is  so  violent  as  to  reduce  them 
in  general  to  a  very  meagre  appearance.  Their  reli- 
gion is  of  a  very  contracted  nature,  and  I  never  wit- 
nessed any  ceremony  of  devotion  which  they  had  not 
borrowed  from  the  Knisteneaux,  their  feasts  and  fastis 
being  in  imitation  of  that  people*  They  are  more  vi- 
cious and  warlike  than  the  Chepewyans,  from  whence 
they  sprang,  though  they  do  not  possess  their  self- 
ishness, for  while  they  have  the  means  of  purchasing 
their  necessaries,  they  are  liberal  and  generous,  but 
when  those  are  exhausted  they  become  errant  beg- 
gars :  they  are,  however,  remarkable  for  their  ho- 
nesty, for'in  the  whole  tribe  there  were  only  two  wo- 
men and  a  man  who  had  been  known  to  have  swerved 
from  that  virtue,  and  they  were  considered  as  objects 
of  disregard  and  reprobation.  They  are  afflicted  with 
but  few  diseases,  and  their  only  remedies  consist  in 
binding  the  temples,  procuring  perspiration,  singing, 
'  4Wid  Wowing  on  tliQ    sick  pei'son,  or  affected  part*. 


cere  mo: 


mon  wi 


Nbrth'West  Continent  of  America*        227 


When  death  overtakes  any  of  them,  their  property, 
as  I  have  before  observed,  is  sacrificed  and  destroyed  ; 
nor  is  there  any  failure  of  lamentation  or  mourning 
on  such  occasions  :  they  who  are  more  nearly  relat- 
ed  to    the  departed  person,  black   their  faces,  and 
sometimes  cut  oft'  their  hair  ;  they  also  pierce  their 
arms  with  knives  and  arrows.     The  grief  of  the  fe- 
males is  carried  to  a  still  greater  excess ;  they  not  on- 
ly cut  their  hair,  and  cry  and   howl,  but    they   will 
sometimes,    with   the   utmost    deliberation,  employ 
some  sharp  instrument  to  separate  the  nail  from  the 
finger,  and  then  force  back  the  flesh  beyond  the  first 
joint,  which  they  immediately  amputate.     But   this 
extraordinary  mark  of  afHiction  is  only  displayed  on 
the  death  of  a  favorite  son,  an  husband  or  a  father* 
Many  of  the  old  women  have  ao  often  repeated  this 
ceremony,   that  they  have  not  a  complete  finger  re- 
maining on  either  hand.     The  women  renew  their 
lamentations  at  the  graves  of  their  departed  relatives 
for  a  long  succession  of  years.     They  appear,  in  com- 
mon with  all  the  Indian  tribes,  to  be  very  fond  of  their 
children,  but  they  are  as  careless  in  their  mode  of 
swaddling  them  in  their  infant  state,  as  they  are  of 
their  own  dress  :  the  child  is  laia  down  on  a  board, 
of  about  two  feet  long,  covered  with  a  bed  of  moss,  to 
which  it  is   fastened  by   bandages,  the  moss  being 
chr^nged  as  often  as  the  occasion  requires.     The  chite 
of  the  nation  has  xxo%  less  than  nine  wives,  and  chil- 
dren in  proportion. 

When  traders  first  appeared  among  these  people, 
the  Canadians  were  treated  with  the  utmost  hospitali- 
ty and  attention  ;  but  they  have,  by  their  subsequent 
conduct,  taught  the  natives  to  withdraw  that  respect 
from  them,  and  sonietimes  to  treat  them  with  indig- 
nity. They  differ  very  much  fron^  the  Chepewyans 
and  Knisteneaux,  in  the  abhorrence  they  profess  of 
any  carnal  communication  between  their  won^en  and 
the  white  people.  They  carry  their  love  of  gaming^ 
to  excess  ;  they  will  pursue  it  for  a  succession  of 
days  and  nights,  and  no  apprehension  of  ruin,  nor  in- 
Quence  of  domestic  affection,  will  restrain  thorn  from 


228  yournal  of  a  Voyage  through  -the 

the  indulgence  of  it.  They  are  quick,  livclif,  active 
people,  with  a  keen,  penetrating,  dark  eye  ;  and  though 
they  are  very  susceptible  of  anger,  are  as  easily  ap- 
peased. The  males  eradicate  their  beards,  and  the 
females  their  hair  in  every  part,  except  their  heads, 
where  it  is  strong  and  black,  and  without  a  curK 
There  are  many  old  men  among  them,  but  they  arc 
in  general  ignorant  of  the  space  in  which  they  have 
been  inhabitants  of  the  earth,  though  one  of  them  told 
me  that  he  recollected  sixty  winters. 

An  Indian  in  some  measure  explained  his  age  to 
me,  by  relating  to  me  that  he  remembered  the  oppo- 
site hills  and  plains,  now  interspersed  with  groves  of 
poplars,  when  they  wer^  covered  with  moss,  and  with- 
out any  animal  inhabilant  but  the  rein-deer.  By  de- 
grees, he  said,  the  face  of  the  country  changed  to  its 
present  appearance,  when  the  Elk  came  from  the  east, 
and  was  followed  by  the  buffaloe  ;  the  rein-deer  then 
retired  to  the  long  range  of  high  lands  that,  at  a  con- 
siderable distance,  run  parallel  with  this  river. 

On  the  20th  of  April,  I  had  an  observation  of  Ju- 
piter and  his  satellites,  for  the  longitude,  and  we  were 
now  visited  by  our  summer  companions  the  gnats  and 
musquitoes.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  which 
was  yet  covered  with  ice,  the  plains  were  delightful ; 
the  trees  were  budding,  and  many  plants  in  blossom. 
Mr.  Mackay  brought  me  a  bunch  of  flowers,  of  a 
pink  color,  and  a  yellow  button,  encircled  with  six 
leaves  of  a  light  purple.  The  change  in  the  appear- 
ance of  nature  was  as  sudden  as  it  was  pleasing,  for 
a  few  days  only  were  passed  away  since  the  ground 
was  covered  with  snow.  On  the  25th  the  river  was 
cleared  of  the  ice. 

I  now  found  that  the  death  of  the  man  called  "the 
White  Partridge,  had  deranged  all  the  plans  which  I 
had  settled  with  the  Indians  for  the  spring  hunting. 
They  had  assembled  at  some  distance  from  the  fort, 
and  sent  an  embassy  to  me,  to  demand  rum  to  drink, 
that  they  might  have  an  opportunity  of  crying  for 
their  deceased  brother.  It  would  be  considered  as  an 
extreme  degradation  in  an  Indian  to  weep  when  sober, 


North-West  Continent  of  America.        2529 


y,  active 
id  though 
;asily  ap- 
,  and  the 
nr  heads, 
It  a  curU 
t  they  are 
they  have 
them  told 

his  age  to 
the  oppo- 
1  groves  of 
i,  and  with- 
r.  By  de- 
nged  to  its 
m  the  east, 
i-deer  then 
It,  at  a  con- 
iver. 

tion  of  Ju- 
tid  we  were 
»  gnats  and 
iver,  which 
delightful ; 
in  blossom, 
jwers,  of  a 
;d  with  six 
he  appear- 
.easing,  for 
I  the  ground 
river  was 


but  a  state  of  intoxication  sanctions  all  irregularities* 
On  my  refusal,  they  threatened  to  go  to  war,  which, 
from  motives  of  interest  as  well  as  humanity,  we  did 
our  utmost  to  discourage  ;  and  as  a  second  message 
was  brought  by  persons  of  some  weight  among  these 
people,  and  on  whom  I  could  depend,  I  thought  it  pru- 
dent to  comply  with  the  demand,  on  an  express  con- 
dition, that  they  would  continue  peaceably  at  home. 

The  month  of  April  being  now  past,   in  the  early 
part  of  which  I  was  most  busily  employed  in  trading 
with  the  Indians,  I  ordered  all  our  canoes  to  be  re- 
paired with  bark,  and  added  four  new  ones  to  them, 
when  with  the  fars  and  provisions  I  had  purchased, 
six  canoes  were  loaded  and  dispatched  on  the  8th  of 
May  for  Fort  Chepewyan.    I  had,  however,  retained 
six  of  the  men  who  agreed  io  accompany  me  on  my 
projected  voyage  of  discovery.    I   also   engaged  my 
hunters,  and  closed  the  h)]^iiie$&  of  the  year   for  the 
company  by  writing  try  pul>|io  and  private  dispatches* 
Having  ascertained,  by  various  observations,  the 
latitude ;.  ^  this  place  to  be  56.  9.  north,  and  longitude 
\\7,  35.  15.  West:— on  the  9th  day  of  May,  I  found 
that  my  aerometer,  was  one  hour  forty-six  minutes 
slow  to   apparent  time ;  the  mean  going  of  it  I  had 
found  to  be  twenty-two  seconds  slow   in  twenty-four 
hours*    Having  settled  this  point,  the  canoe  was  put 
into  the  water  ;  her  dimensions  were  twenty-five  feet 
•  long  within,  exclusive  of  the  curves  of  stem  and  stern, 
twenty-six  inches  hold,  and  four  feet  nine  inches  beam. 
At  the   same  time  she  was  so  light,    ctiat   two  men 
could  caiTy  her  on  a  good  road  three  or  four   miles 
without  resting.     In  this  slender  vessel,   we  shipped 
provisions,  goods   for   presents,   arms,   ammunition, 
and  baggage,  to  the  weight  of  three  thousand  pourj^ds, 
and  an  equipage  of  ten  people,  viz.  Alexander  Mac- 
kay,   Joseph    I^andry,    Charles   Duoette,*    Francois 
3e«ulieux,   Baptist  Bisson,  Francois  Courtois,   aad 
Jacques  Beauchamp,  with  two  Indians  as  hunters  and 
interpi-eters.     One  of  them,  when  a  boy,  was  used  to 
be  so  idle,  that  he  obtained  the  reputable  name  of 

*  Jos«pK  LsBdryand  Clurlei  Ducctte  were  with  lae  ia  nif  former  voyage. 


ii'l 


23£)        ..jfournalofa  Voyage  through  the 

Cancre,  which  he  still  possesses.  With  these .  per- 
sons, I  embarked  at  seven  in  the  evening.  My  win- 
ter interpreter,  with  another  person,  whom  I  left  here 
to  take  care  of  the  fort,  and  supply  the  natives  with 
ammunition  during  the  summer,  shed  tears  on  the 
reflection  of  those  dangers  which  we  might  encoun- 
ter in  our  expedition,  while  my  own  people  offered 
up  their  prayers  that  we  might  return  in  safety 
from  it. 


CHAPTER  III. 


•Proceed  on  the  voyage  of  discovery.  Beautiful  sceneiy.  The  canoe  too  heavHf 
laden.  The  country  in  a  state  of  combustion.  Meet  with  a  hunting  parry. 
State  of  the  river,  &c.  Meet  with  Indians.  See  the  tracks  of  bear 
and  one  of  their  dens.  Senlimcnt  of  an  Indian.  Junction  of  tlie  Bear  River. 
An|>earance  of  tlie  country.  State  of  the  river.  Observe  a  fall  of  timber. 
Abundance  of  animals.    See  some  bears.    Come  in  sight  of  the  roclcy  moun- 

'  tains.  Tlie  canoe  receives  an  injury  and  is  repaired.  Navigation  dangerous. 
Rapids  and  fal>s.    Succession  of  difficulties  and  danj^ers. 

^hursdayl'.  }  W^«^  began  our  voyage  with  a  course  south 
by  west  against  a  strong  current  >4ne  mile  and  three 
quarters,  south-west  by  sout^i^^ne  mile,  and  landed 
before  eight  on  an  island  for  the  night. 

Friday  10.  The  weathei  was  clear  and  pleasant, 
though  there  was  a  keenness  in  the  air ;  and  at  a  quar- 
ter past  three  in  the  imorning  we  continued  our  voy- 
nge,  steering  south-^west  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
south-west  by  south  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  south 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  south-west  by  south  one 
quarter  of  a  mile,  south-west  by  west  one  mile, 
south-west  by  south  three  miles,  south  by  west 
thriee  quarters  of  a  mile,  and  south-west  one  mile. 
The  canoe  being  strained  £i*om  its  having  been  very 
heavily  laden,  became  so  leaky,  that  we  were  oblig- 
ed to  land,  unload  and  gum  it-  As  this  circumstance 
'took  place  about  twelve,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  tak- 
ng  an  altitude,  which  made  our  latitude  55.  58.  48. 

When  the  canoe  was  repaired  we  continued  our 
course,  steering  south-west  by  west  one  mile  and  an 
half,  when  I  had  the  misfortune  to  drop  my  pocket- 


compa* 
west  fo 
steep  ai 
river, 
the  cli; 
reddish 
ish  earl 
stone, 
the  gro 
white  J 
are  sev< 
the  afte 
led  an  < 
formed 
From 
west  sid 
most  bei 
rises  at  i 
inginwi 
val,  or  p 
ing  spac 
cipices  1 
as  the  e 
tre  of  n 
and  ani 
poplars 
tervals 
faloes  : 
and  the 
buft*aloe 
were  fri 
elks  woi 
stance, 
verdure 
ing  fast 
rind  of  t 
rising  or 
scene,  w 
describe 
of  high 
soft  biro 


North-West  Continent  of  America*        2Jl 


noe  too  heavrtf 


compass  into  the  water  ;  west  half  a  mile,  west-south- 
west four  miles  and  an  half.  Here  the  banks  are 
steep  and  hilly,  and  in  some  parts  undermined  by  the' 
river.  Where  the  earth  has  given  way,  the  face  of 
the  cliffs  discovers  numerous  strata,  consisting  of 
reddish  earth  and  small  stones,  bitumen,  and  a  grey-] 
ish  earth,  below  which,  near  the  water  edge,  is  a  red 
stone.  Water  issues  from  most  of  the  banks,  and 
the  ground  on  which  it  spreads  is  covered  with  a  thin 
white  scurf,  or  particles  of  a  saline  substance  :  there 
are  several  of  these  salt  springs.  At  half  past  six  in. 
the  afternoon  the  young  men  landed,  when  they  kit- 
led  an  elk,  and  wounded  a  buffaloe.  In  this  spot  we 
formed  our  encampment  for  the  night. 

From  the  place  which  we  quitted  this  morning,  the 
west  side  of  the  river  displayed  a  succession  of  the 
most  beautiful  scenery  I  had  ev^r  beheld.  The  ground 
rises  at  intervals  to  a  considerable  height,  and  stretch- 
ing inwards  to  a  considerable  distance  :  at  every  inter- 
val, or  pause  in  the  rise,  there  is  a  very  gently -ascend- 
ing space  or  lawn,  which  is  alternate,  with  abrupt  pre- 
cipices to  the  sumtnit  of  the  whole,  or,  at  least  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  distinguish.  This  magnificent  thea- 
tre of  nature  has  all  the  decorations  which  the  trees 
and  animals  of  the  country  can  afford  it ;  groves  of 
poplars  in  every  shape  vary  the. scene  ;  and  their  in- 
tervals are  enlivened  with  vast  herds  of  elks  and  buf- 
faloes :  the  former  choosing  the  steeps  and  uplands 
and  the  latter  preferring  the  plains.  At  this  time  the 
buffaloes  were  attended  with  their  young  ones,  who 
were  frisking  about  them :  ana  it  appeared  that  the 
elks  would  soon  exhibit  the  same  enlivening  circum- 
stance. The  whole  country  displayed  an  exuberant 
verdure  ;  the  trees  that  bear  a  blossom,  were  advanc- 
ing fast  to  that  delightful  appearance,  and  the  velvet 
rind  of  their  branches  reflecting  the  oblique  rays  of  a 
rising  or  setting  sun,  added  a  splendid  gaiety  to  the 
scene,  which  no  expressions  of  mine  are  qualified  ta 
describe.  The  east  side  of  the  river  consists  of  a  range 
of  high  land  covered  with  the  white  spruce,  and  the 
soft  birch,  while  the  banks  abound  with  the  alder  and 


232  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

the  willow.  The  water  continued  to  rise,  and  the 
current  being  proportionably  strong,  we  made  a  great- 
er use  of  setting  poles  than  paddles. 

Saturday  1 1.  The  weather  was  overcast.  With 
a  strong  wind  a-head,  we  embarked  at  four  in  the 
morning,  and  left  all  the  fresh  meat  behind  us,  but 
the  portion  which  had  been  assigned  to  the  kettle;  the 
canoe  being  already  too  heavily  laden.  Our  course  was 
west-south-west  one  mile,  where  a  small  river  flowed 
in  from  the  east,  named  Quiscatina  Sefiy^  or  River  with 
the  High  Banks ;  west  half  a  mile,  south  half  a  niilc, 
south-west  by  west  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  west  one 
mile  and  a  quarter,  south-west  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
aouth-scuth-west  half  a  mile,  and  west  by  south  a 
mile  and  a  half.  Here  I  took  a  meridian  altitude, 
^hich  gave  55.  56.  3,  north  latitude.  We  then  pro- 
ceeded west  three  miles  and  an  half,  west-south-west, 
where  the  whole  plain  was  on  fire,  one  mile,  west  one 
mile,  and  the  wind  so  strong  a-head,  that  it  occa- 
sioned the  canoe  to  take  in  water,  and  otherwise  im- 
peded our  progress.  Here  we  landed  to  take  time, 
with  the  mean  of  three  altitudes,  which  made  the 
watchs  low,  1.  42.  10.  apparent  time. 

We  now  proceeded  west-south-west,  one  mile  and  a 
quarter,  where  we  found  a  Chief  of  the  Beaver  Indi- 
ans on  an  hunting  party.  I  remained  however,  in  my 
canoe,  and  though  it  was  getting  late,  I  did  not  choose 
to  encamp  with  these  people,  lest  the  friends  of  my 
hunters  might  discourage  them  from  proceeding  on 
the  voyage.  We,  therefore,  continued  our  course, 
but  several  Indians  kept  company  with  us,  running 
along  the  bank  and  conversing  with  my  people,  who 
were  so  attentive  to  them,  that  they  drove  the  canoe 
on  a  stony  flat,  so  that  we  w^re  under  the  necessity  of 
landing  to  repair  the  damages,  and  put  up  for  the 
night,  though  very  contrary  to  my  wishes.  My  hun- 
ters obtained  permission  to  proceed  with  some  of  these 
people  to  their  lodges,  on  the  promise  of  being  back 
by  the  break  of  day ;  though  I  was  not  without  some 
apprehension  respecting  them.  The  chief,  however, 
and  another  man,  as  well  as  several  people  from  the 


North'West  Continent  of  America*        231 

lodges,  joined  us,  before  we  had  completed  the  repair  f 
of  the  canoe ;  and  they  made  out  a  melancholy  storyf 
that  they  had  neither  ammunition  or  tobacco  sufficient 
for  their  necessary  supply  during  the  summer.  I  ac-' 
cordingly  referred  him  to  the  Fort,  where  plenty  of- 
those  articles  were  left  in  the  care  of  my  interpreter!^ 
by  whom  they  would  be  abundantly  furnished,  if  they 
were  active  and  industrious  in  pursuing  their  occupa- 
tions. I  did  not  fail,  on  this  occasion  to  magnify  the 
advantages  of  the  present  expedition;  observing,  at 
the  same  time,  that  its  success  would  depend  upon  the 
fidelity  and  conduct  of  the  young  men  who  were  retain- 
ed by  me  to  hunt.  The  chief  also  proposed  to  borrow  my 
canoe,  in  order  to  transport  himself  and  family  across 
the  river :  several  plausible  reasons,  it  is  true,  sug- 
gested themselves  for  resisting  his  proposition  ;  but 
when  I  stated  to  him,  that,  as  the  canoe  was  intended 
for  a  voyage  of  such  consequence,  no  woman  could  be 
permitted  to  be  embarked  in  it,  he  acquiesced  in  the 
refusal.  It  was  near  twelve  at  night  when  he  toak  Knst 
leave,  after  I  had  gratified  him  with  a  present  of  to- 
bacco. 

Sunday^  12.  Some  of  the  Indians  passed  the  night 
with  us,  and  I  was  informed  by  them,  that,  according  tof 
oiir  mode  of  proceeding,  we  should,  in  ten  days,  get  as. 
far  as  the  rocky  mountains.  The  young  men  now  re- 
turned, to  my  great  satisfaction,  and  with  the  appear- 
rance  of  contentment :  though  I  was  not  pleased  when 
they  dressed  themselves  in  the  clothes  which  I  had. 
given  them  before  we  left  the  Fort,  as  it  betrayed  some 
latent  design..  * 

At  four  in  the  morning  v/e  proceeded  on  our  voy- 
age, steering  west  three  miles,  including  one  of  our 
eourse  yesterday,  north-west  by  north,  four  mileSf 
west  two  miles  and  &  half,  north-west  by  west  a  mile, 
and  a  half,  north  by  east  two  miles,  north-west  by 
west  one  mile,  and  north-north-v/est  three  miles.  Af- 
ter a  continuaJtion  of  ou»  course  to.the  north  for  a  mile>' 
and  a  halfj  we  landed  for  the  night  on  an  island  where: 
several  of  the  Indians  visited  us,  but  unattended  bw 
....      U2-  -J 


234  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


their  women,  who  remained  in  their  camp)  which  was 
at  some  distance  from  us. 

The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  during  the  two 
last  days,  is  very  much  elevated,  but  particularly  in 
the  latter  part  of  it,  and,  on  the  western  side,  pre- 
sents, in  different  places,  white,  steep,  and  lofty  cliffs. 
Our  view  being  confined  by  these  circumstances,  we 
did  not  see  so  many  animals  as  on  the  10th.  Between 
these  lofty  boundaries,  the  river  becomes  narrow,  and 
in  a  great  measure  free  from  islands  ;  for  we  had  pas- 
sed only  four  ;  the  stream,  indeed,  was  not  more  than 
from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  yards  broad ; 
whereas,  before  these  cliffs  pressed  upon  it,  its  breadth 
was  twice  that  extent  and  besprinkled  with  islands. 
We  killed  an  elk,  and  fired  several  shots  at  animals 
firom  the  canoe. 

The  greater  part  of  this  band  being  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Indians,  I  endeavored  to  obtain  some  intelligence 
of  our  intended  route,  but  they  all  pleaded  ignorance, 
and  uniformly  declared,  that  they  knew  nothing  of  the 
country  beyond  the  first  mountain  ;  at  the  same  time, 
they  were  of  opinion,  that,  from  the  strength  of  the 
current  and  the  rapids,  we  should  not  get  there  by  wa- 
\  ter  i^,|jjpugh  they  did  not  hesitate  to  express  their 
iJbx|in^'  at  the  exj)^dition  we  had  already  made. 
^.  I^ini^ulred  with  some  anxiety,  after  an  old  man  who 
liad'^akeady  given  me  an  account  of  the  country  be- 
yond the  limits  of  his  tribe,  and  was  very  much  dis- 
appointed at  being  informed,  that  he  had  not  been  seen 
for  upwards  of  a  moon.  This  man  had  been  at  war 
on  another  large  river  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountain, 
«nd  described  to  me  a  fork  of  it  between  the  moun- 
tains ;  the  southern  branch  of  which  he  directed  me 
to  take ;  from  thence,  he  said,  there  was  a  carrying- 
place  of  about  a  day's  march  for  a  young  man  to  get 
to  the  other  river.  To  prove  the  truth  of  his  relation, 
he  consented,  that  his  son,  who  had  been  with  him  in 
those  parts,  should  accompany  me,  and  he  according- 
ly sent  \iXm.  to  the  fort  some  days  before  my  depar- 
ture; but  the  preceding  night  he  deserted  with  ano* 
th«r  young  man,  whose  application  to  attend  me  a&  a^ 


Nort/^We9t  Continent  of  America.        235 


hunter,  being  refuseif,  he  persuaded  the  other  to  leave 
me.  I  now  thought  it  right  to  repeat  to  them  what  I 
had  said  to  the  chief  of  the  first  band,  respecting  the 
advantages  which  would  be  derived  from  the  voyage, 
that  the  young  men  might  be  encouraged  to  remain 
with  me ;  as  withoutthem  I  should  not  have  attempt- 
ed to  proceed. 

Monday  1 3.  The  first  object  that  presented  itself  to 
me  this  morning  was  the  young  man  whom  I  have  al- 
ready mentioned,  as  having  seduced  away  my  intended 
guide.  At  any  other  time  or  place  I  should  have 
chastised  him  for  his  past  conduct,  but  in  my  situa- 
tion it  was  necessary  to  pass  over  his  offence,  lest  he 
should  endeavor  to  exercise  the  same  influence  over 
these  who  were  so  essential  to  my  service.  Of  the  de- 
serter he  gave  no  satisfactory  account,  but  continued 
to  express  his  wish  to  attend  me  in  his  place,  for  which 
he  did  not  possess  any  necessary  qualifications. 

The  weather  was  cloudy,  with  an  appearance  of 
rain  ;  and  the  Indians  pressed  me  with  great  earnest- 
ness to  pass  the  day  with  them,  aad  hoped  to  prolong 
my  stay  among  them  by  assuring  me  that  the  winter 
yet  lingered  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  :  but  my  object 
was  to  lose  no  time,  and  having  given  the  chief  some 
tobacco  for  a  small  quantity  of  meat,  we  embarked 
at  four,  when  my  young  men  could  not  conceal  their  cha- 
grin at  parting  with  their  friends,  for  sb  long  a  period 
as  the  voyage  threatened  to  occupy.  When  1  had  as- 
sured them  that  in  three  moons  we  should  return  to 
them,  we  proceeded  on  our  course,  west-north-west, 
Irnlf  a  mile,  west-south-west  one  mile  and  a  half,  west 
by  <iorth  three  miles,  north-west  by  west  two  miles 
and  an  half,  south-west  by  west  half  a  mile,  south- 
south-west  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  south-west  a  mile^ 
and  a  half*  Here  I  had  a  meridian  altitude,  whick 
gave  56.  17.  44.  north  latitude. 

The  last  course  continued  a  mile  and  an  half,  south. 

by  west  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  south-west  by  south. 

three  milesrlu^d  an  half,  and  west^south-west  two  miles. 

and  an  half.     Here  the  land  lowered  oh  both  sides^ 

f  with  an  increase  of  wood,  and  displayed  great  numbers. 


236  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

of  animals.  The  river  also  widened  from  three  im 
five  hundred  yards,  and  was  full  of  islands  and  flats. 
Having  continued  our  course  three  milesi  we  made 
for  the  shore  at  seven,  to  pass  the  night. 

At  the  place  from  whence  we  proceeded  thii»  morn- 
ing a  river  falls  in  from  the  north ;  there  are  also  seve- 
ral islands,  and  many  rivulets  on  either  side,  which  are 
too  small  to  deserve  particular  notice.  We  perceived 
along  the  river  tracks  of  large  bears,  some  of  which 
M*ere  nine  inches  wide,  and  of  a  proportionate  length. 
We  saw  one  of  their  dens,  or  winter  quarters,  called 
watee,  in  an  island,  which  was  ten  feet  deep,  ii>ie  feet 
high,  and  six  feet  wide  ;  but  we  had  not  yet  seen  one 
of  those  animals.  The  Indians  entertain  great  appre- 
l^ension  of  this  kind  of  bear,  which  is  called  the  grisly 
bear,  and  they  never  venture  to  attack  it  but  in  a  party  of 
at  least  three  or  four.  Our  hunters,  though  they  had 
been  much  higher  than  this  part  of  our  voyage,  by 
land,  knew  nothing  of  the  river.  One  of  them  men- 
tioned, that  having  been  engaged  in  a  war  expeditioui; 
his  party  on  their  return  made  their  canoes  at  some 
distance  below  us.  The  wind  was  north  throughout 
the  day,  and  at  times  blew  with  considerable  violence» 

The  apprehensions  which  I  had  felt  respecting  the 
young  men,  were  not  altogether  groundless,  for  the 
eldest  of  them  told  me  that  his  uncle  had  last  night 
addressed  him  in  the  following  manner  t— "  My  ne- 
phew, your  departure  makes  my  heart  painful.  The 
white  people  may  be  said  to  rob  us  of  you.  They 
are  about  to  conduct  you  into  the  midst  of  our  ene- 
mies, and  you  may  never  more  return  to  us.  Were 
you  not  with  the  Chief,*  I  know  not  what  I  should  do,  but 
he  requires  your  attendance,  and  you  must  follow  him." 

Tuesday  14.  The  weather  was  clear,  and  the  air 
sharp,  when  we  embarked  at  half  past  four.  Our 
course  was  south  by  west  one  mile  and  an  half,  south- 
west-by  south  halE  a  mile»  south-west..  We  here 
found  it  necessary  to  unload,  and  gum  the  canoe, 
in  which  operation  we  lost  an  hour  r  when  we  pro* 

*  These  people,  as  well  a&  the  the  natives  on  this  side  of  Lake  Wiaii»c,givetlit^ 
merCaVitite  agent  that-distinguisticd'appeUativQ. 


North'West  Continent  of  America.        237 

•ceded  on  the  last  course  one  mile  and  an  half*     I 
now  took  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave  56.  II.  19. 
north  latitude)  and  continued  to  proceed  west- south- 
west two  miles  and  an  half.  Here  the  Bear  River,  which 
is  of  a  large  appearance,  falls  in  from  the  east ;  west 
three  miles  and  an  half,  south>south-we»tone  mile  and 
an  half,  and  south-west  four  miles  and  an  half)  when 
we  encamped  upon  an  island  about  seven  in  the  evening. 
During  the  early  part  of  the  day,  the  current  was 
not  so  strong  as  we  had  generally   found  it,   but  to- 
wards the  evening  it  became  very  rapid,  and  was  bro- 
ken by  numerous   islands.     We   were    gratified^   as 
usual,  with  the  sight   of  animals.     The  land  on  the 
west  side  is  very  irregular,  but  has  the  appearance  of 
being  a  good  beaver  country  ;    indeed,  we  saw  sop  t 
of  those    animals   in  the    river.     Wood  is  in  great 
plenty,  and  several  rivulets  added  |their  streams  to 
to  the  main  river.     A  goose  was  the  only  article  of 
provision  which  we  procured  to-day.     Smoke  was  seen 
but  at  a  great  distance  before  us. 

Wednesday  15.  The  rain  prevented  us  from  con- 
tinuing our  route  till  past  six  in  the  morning,  when 
our  course  was  south-west  by  west  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  ;  at  which  time  we  passed  a  river  on  the  left» 
west  by  south  two  miles  and  an  half.  The  bank  was 
steep)  and  the  current  strong.  The  last  course  con- 
tinued one  mile  and  an  half,  west-south-west,  two 
miles,  where  a  river  flowed  in  from  the  right,  west  by 
south,  one  mile  and  an  half,  west-^north-west,  one 
mile,  and  west  by  north  two  miles.  Here  the  land 
takes  the  form  of  an  high  ridge,  and  cut  our  course^ 
which  was  west  for  three  miles,  at  right  angles.  Wc 
now  completed  the  voyage  of  this  day. 

In  the  preceding  night  the  water  rose  upwards  of 
two  inches,  and  had  risen  in  this  proportion  since 
our  departure.  The  wind,  which  was  west-south-west, 
blew  very  hard  throughout  the  day,  and  with  the 
strength  of  the  current,  greatly  impeded  our  pro- 
gress. The  river,  in  this  part  of  it,  is  full  of  islands ; 
and  the  land,  on  the  south  or  left  side,  is  thick 
\vith  wood*    Several  rivulets  also  fall  in  from  that 


fe38         Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


r-. ,. 


quarter*  At  the  entrance  of  the  river  which  we  pas- 
sed) thore  was  a  quantity  of  wood)  which  had  been, 
cut  down  by  axes,  and  some  t;  the  beaver*  This 
fall)  however,  was  not  made,  in  the  opinion  of  my  peo- 
ple, by  any  of  the  Indians  with  whom  we  were  ac- 
quainted. 

The  land  to  the  right  is  of  a  very  irregular  eleva-  ' 
tionand  appearance,  composed  in  some  places  of  clay, 
and  rocky  cliffs,  and  others  exhibiting  strata  of  red, 
green  and  yellow  colours.  Seme  parts,  indeed,  offer 
a  beautiful  scenery,  in  some  degree  similar  to  th?t 
which  we  passed  on  the  second  day  of  our  voyage, 
and  equally  enlivened  witi^  the  elk  and  the  buffaloe» 
who  were  feeding  in  great  numbers,  and  unmolested 
|)y  the  hunter.  In  an  island  which  \re  passed,  there 
w^s  a  large  quantity  of  white  birch,  whose  bark  might 
be  employed  in  the  construction  of  canoes. 

Thursday  i  3.  The  weather  being  clear,  we  re- 
embarked  at  four  in  the  morning,  and  proceeded  west 
by  north  three  miles.  Here  the  land  again  appeared 
as  if  it  run  across  our  course,  and  a  considerable  river 
discharged  itself  by  various  streams.  According  to 
the  Rocky  Mountain  Indian,  it  is  called  the  Sinew 
River.  This  spot  would  be  an  excellent  situation  for 
a  fort  or  factory,  as  there  is  plenty  of  wood,  and 
every  reason  to  l)elieve  that  the  country  abounds  in 
beaver.  As  for  the  other  animals,  they  are  in  evi- 
dent abundance,  as  in  every  direction  the  elk  and  the 
buffaloe  are  seen  in  possession  of  the  hills  and  the 
plains.  Our  course  continued  west-north-west  ♦h^'^c 
miles  and  an  half,  north-west  one  mile  and  an  half, 
south-west  by  west  two  miles  ;  (the  latitude  was  by 
observation  56.  16.  54.  north),  west  by  north  half  a 
mile,  west-north-west  three  quarters  of  a  mile  ;  a 
small  river  appearing  on  the  right,  north-west  one 
mile  and  an  half,  west  by  north  half  a  mile,  west  by 
south  one  mile  and  an  half,  west  one  mile  ;  and  at  se- 
ven we  formed  our  encampment. 
.  Mr.  Mackay,  and  one  of  the  young  men,  killed 
two  elks,  and  mortally  wounded  a  buffaloe,  but  we 
•nly  took  a  part  of  the  ilesh  of  the  former.    The  land 


9fth-W     est  Continent  of  Amerka,         239 

-above  the  spot  where  we  encamped,  spreads  into  an 
extensive  plain,  and  stretches  on  to  a  very  high  ridge, 
which,  in  some  parts,  presents  a  face  of  rock,  but  is 
principally  covered  with  verdure,  and  varied  with  the 
poplar  and  white  birch  tree.  The  country  is  so 
crowded  with  animals  as  to  have  the  appearance,  in 
some  places,  of  a  stall-yard,  from  the  state  o^  the 
ground,  and  the  quantity  of  dung  which  is  scattered 
over  it.  The  soil  is  black  and  light.  We  this  day 
taw  two  grisly  and  hideous  bearsi. 

Friday  17.  Jt  froze  during  the  night,  and  the  air 
was  sharp  in  the  rooming,  when  we  continued  our 
course  west-north>west  three  miles  and  an  half,  south- 
west by  south  two  miles  and  an  half)  south-west  by 
west  one  mile  and  an  half,  west  three  quarters  of  a 
milC)  west-south-west  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  and 
Aouth'West  by  south  one  mile  and  an  half.  At  two  in 
the  afternoon  the  rocky  mountains  appeared  in  sight, 
with  their  summits  covered  with  snow,  bearing, south- 
west by  south  :;  they  .formed  a  very  agreeable  object 
to  every  person  in  the  canoe,  as  we  attained  the  view 
•f  them  much  sooner  than  we  expected.  A  small  ri- 
ver was  seen  on  our  right,  and  we  continued  our  pro- 
gress sputa-west  by  south  six  miles,  when  we  landed 
at  seven,  which  was  our  usual  hour  of  encampment. 

Mr.  Mackafy)  who  was  walking  along  side  of  the 
river  discharged  his  piece  at  a  buffaloe,  when  it  burst 
near  the  muzale,  but  \vithout  any  mbchievous  con^ 
sequences.  On  the  high  grounds,  which  were  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  we  saw  a  buffaloe  tear- 
ing up  and  down  with  great  fury,  but  could  not  distin- 
guish the  cause  of  his  impetuous  motions;  my  hun- 
ters conjectured  that  he  had  been  wounded  with  an 
arrow  by  some  of  the  natives.  We  ascended  several 
rapids  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  saw  one  bear. 

Saturdayy  18.  It  again  froze  very  hard  during  the 
night,  and  at  four  in  the  morning  we  continued  om* 
voyage,  but  we  had  n«t  proceeded  two  hundred  yards, 
before  an  accident  happened  to  the  canoe,  wich  did 
not,  however,  employ  more  than  three  quarters  of  au 
hour  to  complete  the  repair.    We  then  steered  south 


340  jQurnal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


i^^JV•'^*'<V- 


.4iW 


by  west  xmt  mile  and  three  quarters,  south-west  by 
^feutti  tlir«e  miles,  sfmUK-4v«irt  h)iivrestt>a«'i:niiefind'a 
j^liartei^  w^i  by  tioiUh  t^reeqiuMrtevs  olF4[ilinile«»!Mmth- 

^^%  f|fiie  nile  aiiiiaii  baAf,  sdutliAfiaiitliFr'w^ti  JvJtoit 
liiif^ls ;  a^  fintaUlronlof'  witeHiffotesMhe  ^Ti^bVdiirec 
m^eff  mvl  iiniialf,^liei^tbejqanas^itjtack(ao<ttiiSfta*<ii^ 
fl^^  |^eefia|tui^fprt»db&tely  oif  Be^rib  IhAibJEiftleBiJMreiiiflD 
fC|e^^  |bat  Alifce  /m^sftntr  ^la4«£H^.  ttdlDlMdc^.i  axoeptili 
V-mail  f{iQ% /on  vrbioh^eiigntritnl'  tovUi^iDsdlitisasIft. 

ii«ise  tbe^  i}roke«>pai^ao£iit  istbomj/thofjMirfaot  ^i^tifc 
je^^Atcpv  <;>  byiv^hiih  «t>i»tirlvaitliewd>  vcmchei^^'iooBveni- 
v«»ltf  siun^tifpi.  |t.#cqairifed[f  howeteiv'  innin  hmxus  ito 
f^Mnp^te^be  re]>airj  ilwrheii  tiie  viaatfaer  lAi^qamerdifric 

^hpweiver^  itontinuedf^he  thst^t*iAtf»8:^iral(iiti't]iiiI«{ti9iid 

at  six.  in  tkie  evoaif%  M^e  w@rciicdmpi^led  br^^tlud  rahi 

'to  iatid  fbiF:the'ntghid.r     A.turp  -hm-A--^ -^  .-^  h  tV'      ,d^ 

i    iAbout  »ooD  iwe?  hod  landed  oa  fiii  inland  where  thete 

'mt^^  «ight  lod ges  of;  last  y eaK    Tbfl^  nittiyes  hsA  ftt- 

pai^  jbark  here  for  live  canbesi^  itfii^  there  <ift  a  tosid 

alopg  t|iQ   hills  whith  they  iitad  paired.     Branches 

'w^^r^jC^iiV  at^;  broken  along  U  ;  and  they  ihad'  ^Iso 

fJrffH^I  i^vto  H«k  |?f  tlie  vtrefes^rlOigs^  the  i  interior 

-  .Tij|d„i>^4^kJ»rm^  arpart  of  theii^  food.  *        ?   I 

t-aJPfeS  Ctijfrentwas^ery^  strong  ^.roughttoe  whole  6f 

J^fld^y^  tM(|d>|tl|e  fpming,4ip- along  some  of  the  banks 

ys^fi  rei^ered  veryt- 'dangerous,    from  the  ctrntinual 

imllin^  of  IfKTge  stoHes  from  the  upper  parts  of  them. 

;tit]^f  iP^ce  apfkears  to  be  a  particular  pass  for  animals 

,;^f;i^ss,tl:\«^  riv(E^i^9  cis^'^bere  are  paths  leading  to  it  on 

bptl^Mdfis,  every  ^n  yards. 

l,.j,J[f^  thec^^uraepf  the  day  we  saw  a  ground  hog,  and 
iwot  q^finorants.  The  earth  also  appeared  in  several 
pl^Qef  to  have  been  turned  up  by  ^he  bears  in  search 
<^  roots.  , , 

Sunday  19.  It  rained  very  hard  in  the  early  |)art 
of  the  night,. but  the  weather  became  clear  towards 
the  morning,  when  we  embarked  at  our  usual  hour* 
As  the  Gutrent  threatened  to  be  veiy  strcmg,  Mr. 


North'West  Continent  of  America.       341 

Mackay,  the  two  hunters,  and  myself  went  on  ahotey 
in  order  to  lighten  the  canoe,  and  a&cended  the  hills» 
which  are  covered  with  cypress,  and  but  little  encum- 
bered with  underwood.     We   found   a  beaten  path^ 
and  before  we  had  walked  a  mile  fell  in  with  an  herd 
of  buffaloes,  with  their  young  ones  ;  but  I  would  not 
suffer  the  Indians  to  fire  on  them,   from  an   appre- 
hension that  the  report  of  their  fowling-pieces  would 
alarm  the  natives  that  might  be  in  the  neighborhood  ; 
for  we  were  at  this  time  so  near  the  mountains,  as  to 
justify  our  expectation  of  seeing  some  of  them*  We, 
however,  sent  our  dog  after  the  herd,  and  a  calf  was 
soon  secured  by  him.    While  the  young  men  were 
skinning  the  animal,  we  lieard  two   reports   of  fire- 
arms from  the  canoe,  which  we  answered,  as  it  was  a^ 
«ignal  for  my  return :  we  then  heai^  anoUier,  and  im* 
mediately  hastened  down  the  hill«  with    our   veal^ 
through  A  very  close  wood.    There  we  met  one  of 
th^  men,  who  informed  us  that  the  canoe  was  at  a 
small  distance  below,  at  the  foot  of  a  very  strong  ra- 
pid, and  that  as  several  waterfalls  appeared  up  the  n- 
ver,  we  should  be  obliged  to  unload  and  carry.     I  ac- 
cordingly hastened  to  the  canoe,  and  was  greatly  dis- 
pleased that  so  much  time  had  been  lost,  as  I  had  gi- 
ven previous  directions  that  the  river  should  be  fol- 
lowed as  long  as  it  was  practicable.     The  last  Indians 
whom  we   saw  >  had   informed  us,  that  at  the  first 
mountain  there  was  a  considerable  succession  of  ra- 
pids, cascades  and  falls,  which  they  never  attempted 
to  ascend  ;  and  where  they   always  passed   overland 
the  length  of  a  day's  march.     Myjnen  imagined  that 
the  carrying  place  was  at  a  smaii  distance  below  us, 
as  a  path  appeared  to  ascend  an   hill,    where  thcru 
were  several  lodges,  of  the  last  year's  construction. 
The  account  which  had  been  given  me  of  the   rapids, 
was  perfectly  correct :  though  by  crossing  to  the  other 
side,  I  must  acknowledge  with  some  risk,  in  such  an 
heavy-laden  canoe,   the  river  appeared  to  me  to  be 
practicable,  as  far  as  we  could  see ;  the   traverse, 
therefore,  was  attempted,  and  proved  successful.  We 
now  towed  the  canoe  along  an  island,  and  proceeded 

X 


4 


24f3  youmatofa  Voyage  through  the 


without  arty  considerable  difitcultv  till  we  reached  the 
esliremity  c^it,  when  the  line  could 'be  no  longer  em- 
jiiofed ;  aiid  in  endeavoring  to  tlca^  the  'tx>int  of  the 
tlAiUid,  ^We  tanodwias  driven  with  «uchv5olencc  on  a 
stbtify  fthorer  AS  tb  receive  considferable-injtjiry.  We 
itoMrt^ployed  <^vcry  exei^on  iif  ottr  jiower' to'  repur 
tfi^  bit ach  ih^t  had  been  inad^,  as  well  asf  to  dty  Ifich 
artiiiHs8etf*iM»«i%  aiYiibnlimihf^dktt  *  reqtiired  it ; 
we  thett'tftoiipoWed^ the? irYi^t  rifcrblfe^i;*  jjoint,  when 
t^W-toaded,' imd  cbrttirined  our  cMirse  kboirt  three 
qiiartei%  of  a  milci  •  We  tbiiW  how  'profcted  no  fur- 
ther on  this  6!de  of  the  ^ter,  and  the  ^  traverse  !  was 
rendcjred  esctremely  d^nftg«^i*uis,' not  oifly  itoiti  the 
stt-cngth  of  the  turtertti  boit^by^the  <ick«feades'juM  l^low 
ji^j  which  if  v^e^liad^t  ainqri^  them,  Woufld  hai^e^^Sn- 
Yblvet!  us  M(4i^e  caiioe  hi  pne  tbmnibn  detftructioh. 
We  'had  no  other  alteiiiiative-  than  to  return  hy  the 
stlme  course  we  came,  or  to  hazard  the  traverse,  the 
liver  on  this  side  being  bounded  by  a  range  of  steep, 
over*hanging  rOcHs^  beneath  which  the  current  was 
diriven  on  with  resistless  impetuosity  from  the  cias- 
cades.  Here  are  sever^;!  iskinds  of  solid  rock,  cover- 
ed vvilh  ^  small  portion  of  verdure,  which  have  been 
worn  aWay  by  the  constant  force  of  the  current,  and 
oocii^otistUy,  as  I  presume,  of  ice,  at  the  waiter's  edge, 
so  a)^  t(}  b0  r^ttced  in  that  part  to  one-fourth  the  ex-* 
te**  of  1;he^pper  surface ;  presenting,  as  it  were,  so 
ma^y  large  tables,  eich  of  which  was  suppo^ted^  by 
a  pedestm  6i  a  more  circumscribed  projection.  They 
are  very  elevated  for  such  a  situation,  and  afford  ap 
asylumfpr  geese,  vhich  were  at  this  time  breeding  on 
themi  By  eroisising  from  one  to  the  other  of  these 
islands,  we  eame  at  length  to  the  m^u  traverse,  on 
which  we  ventured,  and  were  successful  in  our  pas- 
sag  Mr*  Macfcay,  and  the  Indians,  who  obseved 
our  manoeuvres  from  the  top  of  a  rock;,  were  in  con- 
tinual alarm  for  our  safety?  with  which  tjieir  own,  in- 
deecT  may  be  said  to  have  been  nearly  connected, 
howf  er,  the  dangers  which  we  encountered,  were 
very  .mich  augmented  by  the  heavy  loading  of  the 
canoe* 


NorthAVest  Continent  of  America.        243 


When  we  had  effected  our  passage,  the  current  on 
the  westside  was  almost eqiially  violent  with  that  fron» 
whence  we  had  just  escaped,  hut  the  craggy  bank  be# 
ing  somewhat  lower,  w^  were  gabled,  with  a  line ^| 
sixty  fathoms,  to  tow  the.  canoe,  till  \ire  cS|ii\e  tq; thQ 
"oot  of  the.fnost  rs^ptd  ct^ca^e^we  hft^i^i^hefltQ  ^^• 
tIeFe.,w,^i  uqbja4e4,  .anifiawied  «>Y^?y  );l)i|t^  y/over  % 
ropky  Pflin,^9t  ^E|j|iv|»4^,^  t,Yf€^ty  p9^^9*  IWMrK 

t^  l^^^^m^m^  »f^^«*?l^j|*x1l^^  4»P>!^  ^i9»y  P^<^Bl« 
who  wecc^^iot  iijc^jp^^^atf^jr  fB^  asce^kded;  the 

ban|e»  wluQ^  was  th^revK^a^^JN^d^ed)  fi^/ar  as  we  CQiri4 
see  it,cpinp^^^^^o^,icl^]^  ^n^^nd.a  ycUovf  gra:^e)- 
My  presenl^i"  «9#»ORl7  ^«W  i»^  cl/»vate4ft  tiiat,  the.  men , 
who  jwere  c<]Hi|)ingrUp^,^^r^|iQ^i  poipt^  ,c^  not  hear 
me,  though  t^ai^d.  ti^ithjfrji^/^^ithf  l^f^^i^tiifioaL  stojen 
of  my,^iTo|cj^;.^  ,lightei>;tH<^  canoe,  yfvpaift  ftf  ;Hf/  J^r 
dmg^,,  ,^4n4  h^r;^  I,  wuld  not  tnit^re%<Jt  yritli.  'x^\x^ 
anxiety,  on  the  h**#rd .  9f',|»y  ^nterpfj^^e  .i  ^n«|  ^ fajise 
step  of  those  who^er^s^iaclik^d  to  .ih«  line,  or  the 
breaking  of  the  lin^  iiaelf,  vou|d  h»v^  at  OuOc  con« 
signed  the  canoe,  and  every  thing  it  coiatainedi  to  in- 
stant destruction ;  ^  it,  however,  ascended  the  .rapid  in 
perfect  security,  .but  Dew  dioigers  imihediately  pre- 
sented themselves,  ,fj»r  stones,  hotfa  »m^l  cMid  gjreat, 
were  continually  rolling  from  the  banl^,  so  fi|  lo  rep? 
der  the  situation  of  those iwho  were, dragg^ig^th^tCar 
noe  beneath  it  extremely  perilous  i  besidesi  tj^y  rinfj^e 
at  every  step  in  danger,  from  tof^  steepike&si  .of,  ^ : 
ground,  of  falling  «iato  the  wi^v  y  nor  was  ro^  S9^* 
citude  diminished  by  my  being  i^ejBess|ii?il|t.  ifsoAyed 
at  times  from  the  sight  of  them*  ( >  v  (;. 

In  our  passage  through  the  woods,  we  came  to  «n 
inclosure,  which  bad  been  formed  by  ,^|]|€^  natives,  for 
the  purpose  of  setting  scjares  for  tibe;;«lk,sai^4(  oif 
which  we  could  not  discover  Uie  extei^t.  /^ftejif  we 
had  travelled  for  some  hours  through  thefpreatt  which 
consisted  0f  the  spruce,  birch,  and  thf  hurgestppplaini 
I  had  ever  seen,  we  sunk  down  upon  the  riv^r,^  where 
the  bank  is  low,  and  near  the  foot  of  a  ..mountain  ; 
between  which,  and  a  high  ridge,  the  rive?  flows  in 
a  channel  of  about  one  hundred  yards  broad  :  tl^ough 


1 


V 


244  Jmrnal  of  a  Voyagt  through  the 

at  a  small  distance  beldWy  it  ruahes  on  between  per- 
pendicular  rocks,  where  it  is  not  much  more  than 
half  that  breadth.  Here  I  remained  in  gi^at  anxiety, 
expecting  the  arrival  of  the  canoe,  and  after  some 
time  I  sent  Mr<  Mackay  with  «ne  of  the  Indians  down 
the  river  jTi  search  of  ;it|  ;an4!^ith^  Wat  other  I  went  up 
it  to  examine  what  wie  raig:ht^^pett  inthat  quarter. 
In  nbout  a  mile  and  aha)l  Ir^aiinC)  to  d  pavt  where  the 
river  >vashe^  Mie  feejt  .of  lof^yt  i^reciptces)!  and  present- 
ed, in  th^  fpriftfof  r4pids  aiMl  pajsoadesy  a  sutcession 
of  difiieuUiea  to  pur  navigation*;  A^  the ;canoe  dtdnot 
cometn»ight  we  retacnedtfLivd  from  the  plaee  wherel 
had  separated  with  Mr*  JM^Hay,  w«  saw  the  men  car- 
rying it  over  a«mall  rocky)poait»  We  met  them  at 
thr  entrance  of  the  narrow  f^hannel  already  ^  mention* 
^  ed  ;  t^0ir  difUcnVtif^  ha4  been  gmat^  indeed,  aoid  the 
canoe  had  been  broken^  bm  they  hiM^  persevered  with 
soGceasi  and  having  passed  tiie  carry  ing-plaoey  we 
proceeded  with  the  line  as  far  as  I  had  already  been, 
wben  we  crossed  over  and  encamped  on  tb?  opposite 
beach,  bat  there  was  no  wood  on  this  side  of  the  wa- 
ter, as  the  fuljaiient  country  had  been  entirely  overrun 
by  fire.  We  saw  several  elks  feeding  on  the  edge  of 
the  opposite  precipice,  which  was  upwards  of  three 
hundred  feet  in  height. 

Our  i^ourse  to-day  was  about  saiUh'South- west  two 
milea  and  an  half*  sout^h*west  half  a  mile,  south-west 
by  south  one  mile  and  an  half,  south  by^west  half  a 
mile,  south-west  half  a  mile,  and  west  one  mile  and 
an  half*  There  was  a  shower  of  hail,  and  some  rain 
from  flying  clouds.  I  now  dispatched  a  man  with  an 
Indian  to  visit  the  rapids  abcve,  when  the  latter  soon 
left  him  to .  pursue  a  beaver,  which  was  seen  in  the 
shallow  Walter  on  the  inside  of  a  stony  island  ;  and 
though  Mr.^  Mackay,  and  the  other  Indian  joined  him, 
the  animal  escaped  from  their  pursuit.  Several  others 
were  seen  in  the  course  of  the  day,  which  1  by  no 
means  expected,  as  the  banks  are  almost  every  where 
so  much  elevated  above  the  channel  of  the  river.  Just 
as  the  obscurity  of  the  night  drew  on,  the  man  re- 
tuj'ued  with  an  account  that  it  would  be  impracticable 


t<$!^s4  several  |K)ifits|  Its  ^elt'ftil^tf  >^ti^6r4d|»citidlng 
ppomontofies.'' .'-'-rr  !>;■'-     .■;;    v- n:  ?-   ,i^  .;■'■.■.  ^r  .•i.'tf>,. 

iMbwdBytSO;:   :'ni«'w«*«h^  trft«^dcftH^#kli  W^^tiiy^ 

no^in  s«rhMk:  «M«iHff H  "^H  ttMne^r^  < ' '  Vb^'  hiciiaiiy  ^' 

to  b&fivoQiiped  within^ H  *mi  oT^l^d  |^^i  -  W4idrt  tb<? 
canoe  l^wRfl^^Rerpfitii^tfdl  ^^^clohUAif^  t(y«(^^it  'atoni|^' 
the  wWkki  ten  t1»^;  ne^itl^  pttttit^* :  %Hciii»^iiir«^  «ittb6<t4l>^ 
ed,  as  it»  buld  hdt,  at^-present^  make  any  firrthii^: 
use  of  the  ime,  vb^t^g^  tAGti^'  ^the '  toetw  4iS  i  totKudf 
high  i&Mnd  of  stone  till  WH  eam6  to  a  smaili  seiniy^ 
baf.  As  we  had  ffkvady  damaged  the  ciujOe^  anditttd'' 
every  reason  totfatnVth^  she  soon  woftAcI  "^akmUGli^ 
greater  injury,  it  betamd  n6<;essat^  f«^nlS'l^  ifil^)^^ 
ourselves  with  bark,  as  our  provision-oflth^inki^NdtM'^ 
article  was  almost  exhausted  ;  two  i^en  W6iPifcMib6t&dl^- 
ingly  sent  to  procure  ill  Who  soon*  t^Ulq^e>d'«rMtliF^?iM^ 
necessary: store*  «?w<af  .v*l>"f«  a»  brmMim.  oiio  iiiuoi'.  yd 
^  Mr.  Mickay,  andthe  Indi&tts  wh<^  had  b6ettdn  i^hd*i^t^ 
since  we  brokethe  canoe,  were  pre v^ritedfit>inco*ft.lh^^ 
to  us  by  the  rugged  and  impassable  stoteo^  th^^ir&u>iM$;^^ 
We,  therefore,  again  resumed  om  csourse  wi*h' Ihfe^a'*'*  ^ 
sistance  of  poles,  with  which  ♦we  pushed  dnw«rd*kiBf-^ 
we  came  beneath  a  precipice,  ivhete  We  cwiW-^ol^flte^* 
any  bottom  ;  so  that  we  Were  a^ain  6blig^<t  t&kk.^^^'^ 
course  to  the  line,  the  management  of  WhieW^ttSfi^efii^" 
dered  not  only  difficult  but  dangerous,  a*tbfe  nveh  eri#.'' 
ployed  in  towing  v/ere  under  the  necessity  ci£  psasi*)^  ■ 
on  the  outside  of  trees  that  gi'ew  on  th^6dgte  of' Che 
precipice.  We,  however,  surmounted  tibis^ifiTei^^y^^ 
as  we  had  done  many  others,  andthc  people  who -haii' 

X  2 


a46         Journal  of^  Vof/age  thrmgh  th^'i 


^  ~ 


\ften  walkmjf  <)v«t»  lBn#  nd^  jiyl'n«d  H»/>AThey  also 
hftd  hiet  \vith  theiir  o^&taicles  in[pft««ihg*  thetiloiiifotaiiu 
It"*i6^  (iecatne  ne^ee Mary  for  ri^6  ttiake  a  trnvvrae, 
^AkH  ^^e  w^tor  w«i»  so  fApkl^thftt  ioni«*af,tbe  fpettplb 
ltrttyp«d  thefrt'stilvei^to  fhdir  'tthiftsfJtKat4hejr;*:inight 

eiSent'  hiik^&ii^($'tOKtlM  ^cQJfii«6f  i9ltiKhithC}P^»etadtlslf 

vtir  ^at  fiovtFed  in  fi^tkW(t1<l^ldf^:{«^Do^f  imi«  Oniti  eit- 

but  as  the  curri6M^Wdai4M«^r^lMi%,^(^f  liiKl  beMi 

i^ft^li^ent  in  nerfpf n^jpy  this  office ;  it  proved,  how- 

ever,  sufficrefitTy^plifWgfttirTor-ffleeT  tieriimrand  if  it 

had  not  happened/ |h||*^t|Qcp£t|be^men,  from  absolute 

fatigue  had  remained  and  held  tne  end  of  the  line,  we 

fhould  have  been.dopriyed^-Qfbtv/ery  ,n>eana  of  pj'ose* 

n^  i4i^  vo5^ge)  ad  >?^ll  :tis  pf  'pr^ettt  subsist- 

^,^yfC*i,v.  4i^|r  :JiMtwiihstandiii^  the  state  of 'my  iiriind  on 

'isuch^  Idk  alarming  circumstaticev  and  aifi  intervieniog 

I  elottd  that  ra^criiupted  me,  llfife  altitjide  which  I  took 

?Jhii^t)^eii,^ijfiit^  prpvtia  to  1)t  tqliir,ia1?ly  9<JiTeciii  andsgave 

56.  north  latitude*'    Our  last  cotine  - wi^  .seut([MW>uth^ 

west  two  miles  %nd  a  quarter.  k-^  .., 

^mbjf^  n6^  cdkinufed  ■out  toilsotbc  4nd^ perilous  pro- 

.^^gr^^  Mrith  flhi  line  W^t  by  norths  and  a*  we  ^procccd- 

^"e"d  tfib  ta^idity  of  the  cfurrerittncrefetsed,  s^tshat  iti  the 

'^^ritici^bfftird  miles  ^t  wcrfe  obliged  to  uMoad  fdur 

'^^Vimetr^ 'atitl  idatry  evcty  tiling  but  the  canoe  *.-  indeed, 

'^Irf'ftiliif  pflfe^iss,  it'\vail  with  thte  tiliriost  difficulty  that 

we  could  prevent  her  from  being  dashed  to  pieces 

^^Mitt^  Vfie  Vbfeks  by  tlie  violence  of  the  eddies*    At 

"'^-^v^  We  liid  I)t*6teedfed  to  where  the  river  was  onecon- 

*^,^ilUed  i'^idi     Here  We  again  took  every  thing  out  of 

^''^the  canoe,  iriorclev  to  tow  her  up  with  the  line,  though 

'■^^iiiei^k8tn4t*e  so  shelving  as  greatly  to  increase  the 

"^'f^^^t  1in#  iawird  of  that  operation.     At  length,  how- 

^^^-feferitWt4iiatJoh  of  the  water  was  so  greats  tbat  ». 


pt 


NortffWest  CantinttU  tf  Amrkiu.      2^' 


wav£  striking  on  the  bow  of.  the  canoe>  brokie!  thf  HOCf 
andi  fiUtd  ut ; with:  inexpreMihie  iUsmay^  m  it  «ppe|if n 
ed  rimpoasiblethat  the  veesel  could  escape  froi^i  being 
dk^hed  40  i;nece«)  i^nd/ those;  who  were  in  her  ^^om  {Wt 
riijliing^  >  *  iXnotheiv  wftve,  <  (however,  ,more  propiti^uf : 
t]wiivihed6jinnQri;4r)»f«ilieV!QUt  ofthf^tM^bling  watery 
f(fc  ftbat'j^e/  irtenl  W0ve  qi»bkd  t/^i  brings  her  j«f^re|.iuia 
Jbhotgh  jq)w^h»4!;bef^$ft9m«d/c<Qyifrt,irp9f:H9  >by.(>^|^ 
«velH  ^mhfiil»r«tft 

<hoivi«vfiii,  in;fNtflkla'At»t|(>frfHQ^jth^  ^l^alfirii^  .thai. fit 
iwoUkkMQk  oal^ihwY^^^^^  laitaiiffi^iUiiKjbv^  f  in?k^rH4<;i^t 
to  hftYto  pco()(f8edrW»y:mislhm']iifOfiYei9f  i^t^  ppeiseni,  par^- 
tiouhirl|riik**b«*jriwi^)ahflire  ami*  w^iWr^.jYgxpufd  ^je^, 

/ww»  «««Jwbiit)B,pfc«ft|^f,|piaiwpgiVnj(ify        vtUnB^wi ' 

nv/  ,mUm\)  '}{>  bfi-?  ■:tf*i  bT.><l  htu:  l  'jn^'i-rri  .lu-rf  -^ff^ (.♦':'<    ' 


JTO 


4Ui.' 


'\*ayi 


pre* 


i./teB^puiUt  qC  th< 
Ddth«tt.   Aravc 


i  all:  tides.  >  «rer«ra*i»o«,TO»jte  to  fiUmip^  d*  .«oM«uinM..-^  .     „    ,   .  - 
ascent  with  the  canoe  and  baggage.   Tbe  trees  that  are  found  Vnert.   Arave 

r'£i>#^^^i^if  asj'iv^^trs^ve?  ^fe'Si-JJiSiSfM 


fT    river,  ^fen^  a'iefteV'd'oWti 


fMtTjtibe  diwp^j:agewiewtei;4Wl&c;uJ;jl^  arv^dan- 
gers,  which  had  hiterto  attended  tl^e?  ps^gfrj^ss"  p|,  ,qur 
enterprize,  should  have  exdteda,w]sh,JM^^%yjff^:of 
those  who. were  engaged  in  jt,tQ,(]l^si^9;)t|^Uf  J^H^^pur- 
suit,  might: be  naturally  ex^ct;Qd  p,^iy^ ^eedft  be- 
gan to  be  mattered  Oft  Ulji^4^ji  that  tji/^  waf  i^o^7;aI« 
ternative  but  to  j^tum^joi r  t^ii  ifwfy,q  \Jliic^J  av^ 

Instead  of  paying  any  attspntioa  lo  thi?^^  |0}^;n^urs, 
I  desired  those  who  had  uttered  them  tQi^^ert'|hem- 
selves  in  gaining;  an  ascent  of  the  hill,  ,a^f.enc^p 
there  for  the  night.    Iii  the  jr*ean.  time  t  ,aet^0^^with 


one  of  the  In^ans,  aAd  though  I  continu^4  W»y^.fxa- 
mination  of  the  river  almost  as  long  as  |her^  y^4  any 
light  to  assist  me,  I. could  see  no  ^Qid  of  tHi, Rapids 


248  yourntd  ofn  Voyage  through  the 


'  and  cascades ;  I  was»  therefore,  perfectly  satisfied, 
that  it  would  be  impractkable  M>  proceed  an)r  further 
by  watev.  We  retuffnf4'  from  thia  reoonnoitiring'  ex^ 
cursion  very  much  fatigued,  with^ovr  shoes  vrom  out 
an4  wounded  feet;  w^en.1  £»un4  that/by  ft^Utpg tifeesi 
on  the  dfi^Uvity  oiB  ■.  the  iir»trhilW/.ntf;pe«p^«i  htd  Qmv*<] 
triyed;  to 'ascend' it*;.'.'"  •^  :v  r  v  •  •o'(f[  oj    ?.fu.i'>i  I  cv--;  oii^ 

From  th«  place  whe^re;  l*  h^  \  UJmhi  /lh»  laltitufte  at!  t 
noon,  to  ithe^tLce:V!^het*(B^ivie;ip«ui«  otin  likn4B%)itheBi^t 
ver  i»  noi'm<>re  l3haa!6AyayardfiiTridetiA}id)floi!nbe«i.» 
tweeo  stupendous  rocKt<  froM  whence  hii9»ii)agmictitsS 
sometin^s  tuinbie  down,   M^d   &l]Jligp/i!oiBv.sueh  «fii> 
height)  dash  into  small  stcmOs.  nf  iUil  5liar|j  points,  ■■  ai^dr  ^ 
form    the    b'^ch   bet^ieen^  tht/  iitobky;  peojcidioiifcit 
Along  the  face  of  sojoaedf  these-  pneQifpiobBi^.thc3*tjip4^i 
pears  afitratum  of  a  bitumienoiisrftiib^taMceriiUiicH'^re*  > 
se  mbles  coal }   thou  gh  while .  aomfe )  bf  the '  pibcies  «»f  it ; , 
appeared  to  be  excellei^  fuieli  /others  cesuited  for .  a'' 
considerable  time,  the  action  of  fire,  and  did  hot  emit 
th^  least  flame*    The  whole  of  this  day's   course 
would  have  been  altogether  impracticable,  if  the.  w»* 
ter  had  been  higher,  which  must  be  the  case  at  cer- 
tain seasons.     We  saw  also  several  encampments  of 
the  Knlsteneaux  along  the  river,  which  must  have 
been  foraned  by  them  on  their  war  eaccursiomt ;  a  deci- 
ded proof  of  the  savage,  blood-thirsty  disposition  of 
that  people  ;  as  nothing  less  than  such  a  spirit  could 
impel  them  to  enicounter  the  difficulties  of  this  almost 
inaccessible  country,  whose  natives  are  equally  tmoH- 
fending  and  defenceless. 

Mr.  Mackay  informed  me,  that  in  passing  over  the 
mountains,  he  observed  several  chasms  in  the  earth 
that  emitted  heat  and  smoke,  which  diffused  a  sttong 
sulphureous  stench.  I  shoul4  certainly  have  visited 
this  phscnomenon,  if  I  had  been  sufficiently  qualified 
as  a  naturalist,  to  have  offered  scientific  conjectures 
or  observjations  thereon. 

Tueiday  21.  It  rained  in  the  morning,  and  did 
not  cease  till  about  eight,  and  as  the  men  had  been 
very  fatigued  and  disheartened,  I  suffered  them  to 
continue  their  rest  till  that  hour.    Such  was  the  state 


turn, 


NoHh'W^^  Continent  of  America.'      S40 

of  the  river)  as  I  have  already  observed)  that  no  alter- 
native was  left  as  ;  nor  did  any  means  of  proceedihg^ 
present  themselves  to  us>  but  the^ passage  of  the  moun« 
tain  over  vrhich  We  wtte  to  carry  the  canoe  as  well  ai 
the  baggaige.  As  this  was  a  very  alarming  enter"* 
prizC)  i  dispatchf^' Mr4  Mackay  with  three  men,  and 
the  two  Indians,  to  proceed  in  a  straight  course  from 
the  top  ofuhe  moantainv  knd  to  keep  the  line  of  the 
river  till  they  should  find  It  navigable.  If  it  should  be 
their  opinion,  that  there  was  no  practicable  passage  in 
that  direction*  two  of  them  were  instructed  to  return, 
in  order  to  make  their  report ;  while  the  others-  were 
to  go  in  search  of  the  It^an  carrying-place.  While 
they  were  engaged  in  this  excursion,  the  people  whd^ 
remained  with  me 'Were  employed  in  gumming  the 
canoC)  and  making  handles  for  the  axes*  At  noon  I 
got  an  altitude^  which  made  dur  latitude  5G.  0.  8*  At , 
three  o'clock  had  time)  when  my  watch  was  slow  t.  3  U 
32.  apparent  time.  ^ 

At  sunset)  Mr.  Mackay  returned  with  one  of  the 
men,  and  in  about  two   hours-  was  followed  by  the 
others.     They  had  penetrated  thick  woodS)  ascended 
hills,  and  sunk  into  vallies,  till  they  got  beyond  the  ra- 
pids, which)  according  to  their  calculation,  was  a  dis- 
tance of  three  lee^ucs^    The  two  parties  returoed  by 
different  routes,  but  they  both  agreed,  that  with  all  its 
difficulties,  and  they  were  of  a  very  alarming  naturey^- 
the  ouCwaixl  course  was  that  which  must  be  pt^fer^v  ' 
red.     Unpromising,  however,  as  the  account  of;  Uieir 
expedition  appeared,  it  did  not  sink  them  into  a. state 
of  discouragement:  and  a  kettle  of  wild  rice,; Sweet- 
ened with  sugar,  which  had  been  prepared  for  their  r^^ii. 
turn,  with  their  usual  regale  of  rum,  sooii  renewedri 
that  courage  which  disdained  all  obstacles  that  threot^i  r 
ened.our  progress ;  and  they  went  to  rest>  with^a  iiilla. 
determination  to  surmount  them  oft  the  morrow.     I 
sat  up,  in  the  hope  of  getting  an  ol>servationi  of  Jupi- 
ter and  his  first  satellite,  but  the  cloudy  weather  pre- 
vented my  obtaining  it. 

,    ^Vedneaday  22.     At  break  of  day  we  entered  on  tlw^v, 
extraordinary  journey  which  was  to  occupy- the  re- 


iSO         yournalo/a  VoyMge  through  the 

maining  part  of  it.  The  men  began,  without  delay,  to 
<;ut  a  road  up  the  mountain,  and  as  the  trees  were 
but  of  small  growth,  I  ordered  them  to  fell  tho^e 
which  they  found  convenient,  in  such  a  manner,  that 
they  might  fall  parallel  with  the  road,  but|  at  the  same 
time,  liot  separate  them  entirely  from  the  stumps,  so 
that  they  might  form  a  kind  of  railing  on  either  side. 
The  baggage  was  nowbrought  from  the  water-side  to 
our  encampment.  This  was  likewise  from  the  steep 
shelving  of  the  rocks,  a  very  perilous  undertaki  g,a8 
one  false  step  of  any  of  the  people  employed  m  it, 
would  have  been  instantly  followed  by  JEalliog  head- 
long into  the  watev.  When  this  important  object  was 
attained,  the  whole  of  the  party  proceeded  .  with  no 
small  degree  of  apprehension^  to  fetch  .the  c^oe, 
which,  in  a  short  time,,  was  also  bro^bt  te^.  the  en- 
campment;  and,  as  soon  as  we  had  recovered  from 
our  fatigue,  we  advanced  with  it  \ip  the  mountain, 
having  the  line  doubled  and  fastened  successively  as 
we  went  on  to  the  stimips,  while  a  man  at  the  end 
of  it,  hauled  it  round  a  tree,  holding  it  on  and  shifting 
it  as  we  proceeded ;  so  that  we  may  be  said,  with 
strict  truth,  to  have  warped  the  canoe  up  the  moun- 
tain ;  indeed,  by  a  general  and  most  laborious  exer- 
tion, we  got  every  thing  to  the  summit  by  two  in  the 
afternoon*  At  noon,  the  latitude  was  56.  0.  47. 
north*  At  iive,  I  sent  the  men  to  cut  the  road  on- 
wards, which  they  effected  for  about  a  mile,  when 
they  returned. 

The  weather  was  cloudy  at  intervals,  with  showers 
and  thunder.  At  about  ten,  I  observed  an  emersion 
of  Jupiter's  second  satellite ;  time  by  the  achrometer 
8.  32.  30.  by  which  I  four.-d  the  longitude  to  be  120. 
29.  30.  west  from  Greenwich. 
.  Thuraday  T3,  The  weather  was  clear  at  four  this 
morning,  when  the  men  began  to  carry.  I  joined  Mr. 
Mackay,  and  the  two  Indians,  in  the  labor  of  cutting 
a  road.  The  ground  continued  rising  gently  till  noon, 
when  it  began  to  decline  \  but  though  on  such  an  ele- 
vated situation,  life  could  see  but  little,  as  mountains 
of  a  still  higher  elevation)  and  covered  with  anowy 


klay,  to 
es  were 
n  tho^e 
ler,  that 
;he  some 
i^upa,  »o 
her  side, 
r-side  to 
;ho  steep 
ak=   g»a8 
ed   111  it) 
ng  head- 
bjcct  was 
iWitk  no 
e  c^oC) 
%  the  cn- 
irtsd  from 
nountaiU) 
isively  as 
yt  the  end 
I  shifting 
jaid,  with 
le  moun- 
)us  cxer- 
vo  in  the 
6.  0.  47. 
I  road  on- 
ile,  when 

I  showers 
emersion 
;hroineter 
o  be  ISO. 

four  this 
oined  Mr» 
)f  cutting 

till  noon, 
;h  an  ele- 
nountains 
ith  Bnow> 


North-West  Continent  qf  America*        951 

were  seen  far  above  us  in  every  direction.  In  the  af- 
ternoon the  ground  became  very  uneven ;  hills  and 
deep  defiles  altemately  presented  themselves  to  us* 
Our  pmgresS)  however,  exceeded  ifty  expectation} 
and  it  was  not  tilt  four  in  the  afternoon  that  the  carri- 
ers overtook  us.  At  five,  m  a  state  of  fatigue  that 
may  be  more  readily  conceived  than  expressed,  we 
encamped  ncftt  a  rivulet  or  spring  that  issued  from  be- 
neath a  large  mass  of  ice  and  snow. 

Our  toilsome  journey  of  this  day  I  computed  at 
about  three  milc^ ;  along  the  first  of  which  the  land  ia 
covered  with  plenty  of  wood,  (Consisting  of  large  trees, 
encumbered  with  little  underwood,  through  which  it 
was  by  no  means  difficult  to  open  a  road,  by  following 
a  well-beaten  elk  path  ;  for  the  two  succeeding  miles 
we  found  the  country  overspread  with  the  trunks  of 
trees,  laid  low  by  fire  some  years  ago ;  among  which 
large  copses  had  sprung  up  of  a  close  growth,  and  in- 
termixed with  briars,  so  as  to  render  the  passage 
through  them  painful  and  tedious.  The  soil  in  the 
woods  is  light  and  of  a  dusky  color  ;  that  in  the  burn- 
ed country  is  a  mixture  of  sand  and  clay  with  small 
stones.  The  trees  are  spruce,  red-pine,  cypress,  pop- 
lar, white  birch,  willow,  alder,  arrow-wood,  red- 
wood, Hard,  service-tree,  bois  pioant,  &o.  I  never 
saw  any  of  the  last  kind  before.  It  rises  to  about  nine 
feet  in  height,  grows  in  joints  without  branches,  and 
is  tufted  at  the  extremity.  The  stem  is  of  an  equal 
size  from  the  bottom  to  the  too,  and  does  not  exceed 
an  inch  in  diameter  ;  it  is  covered  with  small  prickles, 
which  caught  our  trowsers,  and  working  through 
sometimes  found  their  way  to  the  flesh.  The  shrubs 
are,  the  gooseberry,  the  currant,  «U)d  the  several 
kinds  of  briars.  * 

Friday  24.  We  continued  our  very  laborious  jour- 
ney, which  led  us  down  some  steep  hills,  and  through 
a  wood  of  tall  pines.  Afler  much  toil  and  trouble  in 
bearing  the  canoe  through  the  difficult  passages  which 
we  encountered,  at  four  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived 
at  the  river,  some  hundred  yards  above  the  rapids  or 
falls,  with  all  our  baggaget    I  compute  the  distance 


252  y^urtuxlofa  Voyage  through  the 


of  this  day's  progress  to  be  about  four  miles  ;  indeed) 
I  should  have  measured  the  whole  of  the  way,  if  I  had 
not  been  obliged  to  engage  personally  in  the  laboi*  of 
making  the  road.  But  after  all)  the  Indian  carrying 
way,  whatever  may  be  its  length,  and  I  thii^.  it  can> 
nc .  exceed  ten  miles,  will  always  be  found  more  safe 
and  expeditious  than  the  passage  which  our  toil  and 
perseverance  formed  and  surmounted* 

Those  of  my  people  who  visited  this  pface  on  the 
21st,  were  of  opinion  that  the  water  had  risen  very 
much  since  that  time.  About  *  wo  hundred  yards  be- 
low us,  the  stream  rushed  with  ah  astonishing  but  si- 
lent velocity,  between  perpendicular  rocks,  which  are 
rotmore  than  thirty-five  yards  asunder  £  when  t^e  wa> 
tei  is  high,  it  runs  over  those  rocks,  in  acha3melthree 
times  that  breadth,  where  it  is  bounded  by  far  more 
elevated  precipices.  In  the  former  are  deep,  round 
holes,  some  of  which  are  full  of  water,  while  others 
are  empty,  in  whose  bottom  are  small  round  stones, 
as  smooth  as  marble.  Some  of  these  natural  cylinders 
would  contain  two  hundred  gallons.  At  a  small  dis- 
tance below  the  fiist  of  these  rocks,  the  channel 
widens  in  a  kind  of  zig-zag  progression  ;  and  it  was 
really  awful  to  behold,  with  what  infinite  force  the 
water  drives  against  the  rocks  on  one  side,  and 
with  what  impetuous  strength  it  is  repelled  to  the 
other:  it  then  falls  back,  as  it  were,  into  a  more 
straight  but  rur;ged  passage,  over  which  it  is  tossed 
in  high,  foaming,  half-iormed  billows,  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  follow  it. 

The  young  men  informed  me  that  this  was  the 
place  where  their  relations  had  told  me  that  I  should 
meet  with  a  fail  equal  to  that  of  Niagara:  to  excul- 
pate them,  however,  from  their  apparent  misinforma- 
tion, they  declared  that  their  friends  were  not  accus- 
tomed to  utter  falshoods,  and  that  the  fall  had  pro-r 
bably  been  destroyed  by  the  force  of  the  water.  It  is, 
however,  very  evident,  that  tliese  people  had  not 
been  here,  or  did  not  adhere  to  Jthe  truth»  By  the 
number  of  trees  which  appeared  to  have  been  felled 
with  axeS)  we  discovered  that  the  Knisteneau^,  or  some 


plaint 
oblige 
small 
tinuec 
West- 
miles, 
chain 
south 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        253 

tribes  who  are  known  to  employ  that  instrument,  had 
pasted  thiai  way*  •  Ws^pasjisd  through  a  snare  inclo- 
tore^  butaawBO  anbtialsy  ^i^gh^the  country^fi;^^  ve^ 
ry  igHicb:<imeis^tedi)by^ti^f  ir,;i]]a£lMu>  ..  ,  -> 
Hii'dmuniaif.Akl  5IIJ  r^inwl  J^rft«Kho,vit,  the  nigiit)  ipd 
tiH^wislWiithfelflBy  ^  jvhyiie  ^^.bi^siaefta  ^  preparing 
j|««at tend  inmil pdlcf f.\ii«)d tlWil»it|»e,9a^Qe iQarder, 
1»«i  itiAiSfld  swiA9  wsfiegmqhffrp  tUih  ^  ifi..th% after- 
noon. J  now  4itlftdMidi^»i>  lM9^^.p«t^^  a  «t«al,.  ilint, 
b^aAM  UMl(ptiicJ[r  fnffiiig  AjiiiclcHt^rtO;  ^^Q^|e,vW^'«l^  I 
'^*^««i^^iaMdelbJt»r*tok©Rii>C,WW^'  %9  tj^  natives. 
WHtef  liM».7in&biaii^itiit$^^rribi|g^ept,  pne  of  ipy 
Mtiiff^ntiifi'wyhttmiislitinN^^fe^  ^ebCFibedunder^^e 
tHlei  t^thtta^aincfe^rAddfAT^dii^^^^^^  a  small, 

tdvuOi  pwtv  of }gbcBtti3Vbo0t  s^wiHi.#  9ne  ei^d  m.^he 
for^^fiU^tibradbK^hifiblhii  i«fU'ai^a:  \i^  4q  .pipk  ,th» 
liiMIrd^  o|itbo£{^iaii0»4  ^:'^i9iv^eit%^r^«^  mf:^ ^^iraB 
&h^J6nii)tem  «£;a  ianmti»y  4il>QHtidiog  i»  anim^^^^^ 
water  liad  tktbrv*  diii*H)^4>iii'iSt|t^  here), one  foot  and 
an  half  perpeMi'^oljcc  height* 

We  hbvrembarktfd^^iadoiUr  course  was  nortj^^^west 
one  tiftile-and  throe 'qunrtera*  There  were  mo\ui^tains 
on  fill  sides  ol  ys,  which  were,  cove  red  with  sp^wi 
on^i»^rtioulArf  pn/the  south  sideioCtthejJPiverij^jrciBe 
to  a-  i^eat  height.  1  Wle.  vcontimied  to  p»oe«ed j^west 
thre€f  'quaisters  of  u  milof  nQrtl^^;ei»t;.QQ0.snii^j,;^d 
'wesl-&o>QSEliiwest?  a  qtisirter  ofa.mU^^uivhenv^fti  ©n- 
camp^d  for  (the  night.    ,Tbe   Gancre  >i»iU.ed  a^ ^mall 

<SwnrfJy>  26.  The  Weathier  wa»"-cleftr  and.  sharp, 
and  between  tiiree  and  four  in  the  G&gjrHing  we  re- 
newed our  voyage i  our  first  course  being  west  by 
soath  threfe  miles  aiid  an  halff  when  the  me»>!CP;m- 
pkined  of  the  cold  in  their  fingei's,  as  thsy-  were 
obliged  to  push  on  Uie  canoe  with  the  pole»i(  Here  a 
small  river  flowed  in  from  the  north*  We  trow., con- 
tinued to  steer  west-"south-weBt  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
west-north-west  a  mile  and  an  half,  and  west  two 
miles,  when  we  found  owrselves  ou  a  i^aralleLwith  a 
chain  of  mountains  on  both  sides  the  river,i  running 
south  and  north.     Tlie  river,  both  yesterday  a»d  the 

Y 


S54         Journal  of  a  Votfage  through  tht 

early  part  o(today,  was  from  four  £6  eight  hundTed 
yards  wide,  and  full  of  islands^  but  was  at  this  time 
diminished  to  about  two  hundred  yards  broad,  and 
free  from  islands,  with  a  smooth  but^rong  current. 
Our  next  course  was  south-west  V^o  mites>  when  we 
encountered  a  rapid,  and  sbw  an  encaihpment  of  the 
Knisteneaux.  We  now  proceeded  notUi-west  by  wrst 
one  mile,  among  islaoids  south«west  by  west  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  south-south-east  one  mile,  veered 
to  south-west  through  islands  three  miles  and  an 
half,  and  south  by  east  half  a  mile*  Here  a  river 
poured  in  on  the  left,  which  wus  the  most  considera- 
t}le  that  we  had  seen  since  we  had  passed  the  mountaitn. 
At  seven  in  the  evening  we  landed  and  encantped. 

Though  the  sun  had  shone  upon  us  throughoiit  the 
day,  the  air  was  so  coldi  that  the  men,  though  active- 
ly^mployed)  could  not  resist  it  without  the  aid  of 
their  blanket  coats*  This  circurAstsmce  might  in 
some  degree  be  expected  fnim  the  sUrrounding 
mountains,  which  were  covered  with  ice  and  snow-; 
but  as  they  are  not  so  high  as  to  produce  the  extreme 
cold  which  we  suffered,  it  must  be  more  particularly 
attributed  to  the  high  situation  of  the  country  itself, 
richer  than  to  the  local  elevation  of  the  mountains, 
the  greatest  height  of  which  does  not  exceed  fifteen 
huQdred  feet  ;  though  in  general  they  do  not  rise  to 
half  that  altitude.  But  as  I  had  not  been  able  to  take 
aAi  enact  measurement,  I  do  not  presume  upon  the 
accuracy  of  my  conjecture.  Towards  the  bottom  of 
these  heights,  which  were  clear  of  snow,  the  trees 
were  putting  forth  their  leaves,  while  those  in  the 
middle  region  still  retained  all  the  characteristics  of 
winter,  and  on  their  upper  parts  there  was  little  or 
no  wood* 

Monday  27.  *  The  weather  Was  clear  and  we  con» 
tinned  our  voyage  at  the  usual  hour,  when  ^q  suc- 
cessively found  several  rapids  and  points  to  impede 
our  progress.     At  noon  our    latitude  was  66.  5.  54. 

•     *  From  thig  day,  to  the  4Ui  June  the  counei  of  my  vo}'age  are  onvltted,  «$  I  lost 
.the  book  that  contained  them.    I  was  in  the  habit  uf  Mmetimcs  indulging  myself 
with  a  short  doze  in  the  canoe,  and  I  imagine  tlat  the  blanches  of  tlic  trees  brush- 
ed my  book  fiom  me,  wlieu  1  was  in  sucEa  tiiMtioni  which  ^endcis  UiC  accuuut 
*^4  these  few  dajs  lc»  distinct  ibfa  usual, 


North-West  Continejii  of  Amcrkct-,        2a5 

noi  th.  The  Indians  killed  a  stag ;  and  one  of  the 
men  who  went  to  fetch  it  was  very  much  endangered 
by  the  rolling  down  of  a  large  stone  from  the  heights 
above  him. 

Tueiday  28.  The  day  was  very  cloudy.  The 
mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  river  seemed  to  have 
^unk,  in  their  elevation,  during  the  voyage  of  yester- 
day. To-day  they  resumed  their  former  altitude,  and 
run  so  close  on  either  side  of  the  channel,  that  all 
view  was  excluded  of  every  thing  but  themselves. 
This  part  of  the  current  was  not  broken  by  islandsr; 
but  in  the  afternoon  we  approached  soit'C  cascai*  ^ 
which  obliged  us  to  carry  our  canae  and  its  lading  tor 
several  hundred  yards.  Here  we  observed  an  en- 
campment of  the  natives,  though  some  time  ha^ 
elapsed  since  it  had  been  inhabited.  The  greater  part 
of  the  day  was  divided  between  heavy  showers  and 
small  rain  ;  and  we  took  our  station  on  the  shore 
about  six  in  the  evening,  about  three  miles  above  the 
last  rapid. 

Wedneaduy  29.  The  rain  was  so  violent  through- 
out the  whole  of  this  day,  that  yre  did  not  venture  to 
proceed.  As  we  had  almost  expended  the  contents  of 
a  rum^keg,  and  this  being  a  day  which  allowed  of  no 
active  employment,  I  amused  myself  with  the  experi- 
ment of  inclosing  a  letter  in  it,  and  dispatched  it  down 
the  stream,  to  take  its  fate.  I  accordingly  introduced! 
a  written  account  of  all  our  hardships,  &c.  carefully 
inclosed  in  bark,  into  the  small  barrel  by  the  bung- 
hule,  which  being  carefully  secured,  I  consigned  this 
epistolary  cargo  to  the  mercy  of  the  current. 

'Ihuraday  SO.  We  were  alarmed  this  morning  at 
the  break  of  day,  by  the  continual  barking  of  our  dog, 
who  never  ceased  from  running  backwards  and  for- 
ward in  the  rear  of  our  situation ;  when,  however,  the 
clay  advanced,  we  discovered  the  cause  of  our  alann 
to  proceed  from  a  wolf  who  was  parading  a  ridge  a 
few  yards  behind  us,  and  had  been  most  probably  al- 
lured by  the  scent  of  our  small  portion  of  fresh  m.eat» 
The  weather  was  cloudy,  but  it  did  not  prevent  us 
from  renewing  our   progi*ess  at  a  very   early  houi^ 


256  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  tht! 

A  considerable  river  appeared  from  the  left,  and  we 
pontinueid  our  course  till  seven  in  the  evening,  when 
we  landed  af  night  where  there  was  an  Indian  en- 
campment. 

Friday  31.  The  morning  was  clear  and  cold,  and  the 
current  very  powerful.  <>n  cn.»saing  the  mouth  of  a 
river  that  {lowed  in  from  the  right  of  us,  W€  were  ve- 
ry ^much  endangered  ;  indeed)  all  the  rivers  which  I 
have  lately  seen,  appear  to  overflow  their  natural  li- 
mits, as  it  may  be  supposed,  from,  the  melting  of  the 
mountain  snow.  The  water  is  almost  white)*  the  bed 
of  the  river  being  of  lime-stone.  The  mpuntains  are 
one  solid  mass  of  the  sape  materials,  but  witliout  the 
least  shade  of  trees,   or   decoration   of  foliage*     At 

^  nine  the  men  were  so  cold  that  we  landed,  in  order 
to  kindle  a  fire,  .which  was  considered  as  a  very  un-  ^ 
common  circumstance  at  this  season  ;  a  small  quan- 
tity of  rum,  however,  served  as  an  adequate  substi- 
tute ;  and  the  current  being  so  smooth  as  to  admit 
of  the  use  of  paddles,  I  encouraged  them  to  proceed 

•  without  any  further  delay.  In  a  short  time  an  exten- 
sive view  opened  upon  us,  displaying  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  ihat  was  heightened  by  the  calmness 
of  the  weather,  and  a  splendid  sun.  Here  the  moun- 
tains^ jylwch  were  covered  wi*h  wood,  opened  on  either 
side,  so  that  we  entertained  the  hop^  of  soon  leaving 

'<>  them  behind  us.     When  we  had  got  to  the  termina- 

.  tjon  of  this  prospect,  the  river  was  barred  with  rocks, 
forming  cascades,  and  small-islands.  To  proceed  on- 
ward«,  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  clearing  a  nar- 
row passage  of  the  drift  wopd,on  the  left  shore.  Hero 
the  view  convinced  us  that  our  late  hopes  were  with- 
out foundation,  as  there  appeared  a  ridge  or  chain  of 
mountains,  running  south  and  north  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach. 

On  advancing  two  or  three  miles,  we  arrived  at  the 
fork,  one  branch  running  ^bout  west-north-west,  and 
the  other  aouth-south'Cast,  If  1  had  been  governed 
by  my  own  judgment,  I  should  have  taken  the  former, 
as  it  appeared  to  me  to  be, the  most  likely  to  bring  us 
nearest  to  the.p*irt  where  I  wished  to  fall  on  the  Pa- 


North^West  Continent  of  America,        2Si 


cific  Ocean,  but  the  old  mail)  whom  I  have  already- 
mentioned  as  having  been  frequently  on  war  expedi- 
tions in  this  country,  had  warned  me  not,  on  any  ac- 
count, to  follow  H,  as  it  was  soon  lost  in  various 
branches  among  the  mountains,  and  that  th^re  was 
ho  great  river  that  ran  in  any  direction  near  it ;  but  by 
following  the  latter,  he  said,  we  should  arriye  at  a 
carry]ng-place  to  another  large  river,  that  did  ^ot  ex- 
ceed a  day's  march,  where  the  inhajbitants  build  hou- 
,ses,  and  live  upon  islands.  There  was  so  much  ap- 
parent truth  in  the  old  man's  narrative,  that  I  de- 
termined to  be  governed  by  it ;  for  I  did  not  entertain 
the  least  doubt,  if  I  could  get  into  the  other  river, 
that  I  should  reach  the  ocean. 

I  accordingly  ordered  my  steersman  to  proceed  at 
once  to  the  east,  branch,  which  appeai*ed  to  be 
more  rapid  t.ian  the  other,  though  it  did  not  pos- 
sess an  equal  breadth.  These  circumstai  oes  dis- 
posed my  men  and  Indians^  the  latter  in  particular 
being  very  tired  of  the  voyage,  to  express  their  wish« 
es  that  I  shoiild  take  the  western  braq^ch,  especially 
when  they  perceived  the  difficulty  of  stemming  the 
current  in  the  direction  on  whjch  I  had  determined. 
Indeed,  the  rush  of  the  water  was  so  powerfulv  that 
we  were  the  greatest  part  of  the  afternoon  in  getting 
two  or  three  miles— a  very  tardy  and  mortifying  pro- 
gress, and  which,  with  the  voyftge,  was  openly  Wie? 
crated  by  many  of  those  who  were  engagitd  ill  it  ^ 
and  the  inexpi*essible  toil  these  people  had  eiidured|  iis 
well  as  the  4angers  they  had  encountered,  riequired 
some  degree  of  consideration;  I  therefore  employed 
those  arguments  which  were  the  best  calculated  to 
calm  their  immediate  discontents,  as  well  as  to  en- 
courage their  future  hopes,  though,  at  the  same  time, 
I  delivered  my  sentiments  in  such  a  manner  as  to  con- 
vince them  that  I  was  determined  to  proceed. 

On  the  1st  of  ^une  we  embarked  at  sun-rise,  and 
towards  noon  the  current  began  to  slacken  ;  we  then 
put  to  shore,  in  order  to  guija  the  canoe,  when  a  me-, 
ridian  altitude  gave  me  55.  42.  16,  north  latitude* 
We  then  continued  our  course,  and  towards  theeven* 


tS%         yourhat  tfd  Voyage  through  tfth 


\n%  the  current  begafft  to  i^ecover  its  foriwcr  strength. 
Mr.  MflcRtiy  And  th6  Indiatns  had  already  diseihbvrk- 
tAy  X6  walk  and  lighten  th6  bodt.  At  sun-s^tj  we  en- 
tatnp^d  on  a  poiht,  being  the  first  dry  lawd  which  had 
been  found  on  this  sid6  the  river^  that  was  fit  for  om* 
DUrpoSe,  sinee  our  peojpile  went  6n  sihtnre.  in  the 
^ndrnifig  We  passed  a  large  fapid  riTcir,'  thtlt  flowed  ih 
from  the  right.  ( 

In  n6  part  of  the  riorth-w^t  did  I  see  so  much  bca- 
^er-work,  withih  an  equal  distance,  as  in  the  course  of 
this  day.  In  skrttte  pTice^  they  had  cut  down  several 
acres  of  Targe  pbplat^  {  dnd  -^t  saw  also  a  great  num- 
ber of  these  active  ai^d  sagacious  animsils.  The  tim6 
which  these  wonderful  cfeatureS  allot  for  their  tabo^rtf, 
•ivhetherih  erecting  their  curiou6habijtationS|  or  proi^id- 
ing  food,  is  the  whole  of  the  ihtirval  between  the  6et- 
ting  and  the  rising  iuri. 

Towards  thfe  diisky  j>aft  of  thi  fevening  tre  heitrd  sfc- 
teral  disthlirg^s  frolH  the  fbwHng  plee^S  of  tmr  peo- 
ple, which  we  answered,  to  itifd^m  th^m  of  Our  situa- 
tion ;  and  some  tlnife  aft^r  it  w^sdark,  ^h^  arrived  in 
an  e(|ual  state  of  fatigue  ahdaiUriii:  th^y  Dfreft  illso  ob- 
liged to  swim  ati'biiS  a  chaitn^l  in  oVder  i6  |get  to  uSi 
^  ^e  Wer^  sitiiatM  oii  ilA  HMtAi  thbUgh  Wfe  Mfkte  ig- 
tkfiittitii  of  the  circtiiri&tdntfej  till  they  came  to  iriforiri 
us.  Ohe  of  tlfe  Iiidi^hs  #as  pbsitir^  thdt  h^  heatd  the 
discharge  G^  fire-artris  abbVe  oUr  ^iicainpmetit  \  aUd  on 
tompamfg  the  niiiiiBlr  of  otir  diichVges  ^ith  theirs^ 
there  appeared  tb  be  sonte  fbuhdation  for  his  alarm^ 
as  we  imagined  that  we  had  heard  t"tvo  reports  more 
ihan  they  ackho^ledjged ;  and,  in  thfeir  tu^n,  declared 
that  they  heard  twice  the  nurttbcr  of  ihos^  which  we 
kiiew  hsd  prbceeded  from  us.  The  Indians  Were 
the^blTore  certain,  that  the  Rhistcneaux  must  be  ih  our 
titii^ity,  on  a  wateit^editibh,  dnd  consccjuently,  if  they 
were  numerous,  we  should  hkve  had  no  reason  to  ex- 
pect the  least  mercy  from  thehi  in  (his  diStaht  coun- 
try. Though  I  did  hot  belleVe  that  circuthstance,  or 
that  any  of  the  natives  could  be  in  pbssession  of  fife- 
arms,  I  thought  it  riglit,  at  att  fevents,  we  sh6uld  be 
jJi^ared.    Otir  ftisecs  i^crc>  tl^^f ^forej  prim^  ^d 


•}oad«d|  And  having  extinguidhed  our  fire^  each  of  in 
took  his  station  at  the  foot  of  a  tree,  where  we  passed 
tti  uneasy  and  Restless  night. 

Th6  sticoefidihg  morning  being  clear  and  pleasant, 
W6  pJr6c^eded  at  an  early  hour  against  a  rapid  current, 
ifttirsected  by  islands.  About  eight  vre  passed  two 
itv%t  treis,  whosjj  roots  having  been  undermined  by 
the  current,  had  recently  fallen  into  th*  river ;  and,  in 
<ny  opinioh,  the  crash  of  their  fall  had  occasioned  the 
niHSe  which  caused  our  late  alarm.  In  this  manner  the 
Wafer  ravages  the  islands  in  these  rivers,  and  by  driv- 
ing down  grfeat  qfuantities  of  wood,  forms  the  fdunda* 
tionS  of  othferSi  The  men  were  so  oppressed  with  fa- 
tigue, that  it  was  itccessary  they  should  encamp  at  six 
\ti  the  afternoftn.  We,  therefore  landed  on  a  Sandy 
iiHand*,  which  iS  a  very  uncommon  object,  as  the  great- 
er part  of  the  islands  consist  of  a  bottom  of  round 
stones  and  gravtl,  covered  from  three  to  ten  feet  with 
mud  and  old  drift-wood.  Beaver-work  was  as  fre- 
quently seen  a«  6n  the  preceding  day. 

On'  the  3d  of  luhe  we  renewed  our  voyage  With 
fhe'risiHg  fiuha  At  noon  I  obtained  a  meridian  alti- 
titu!cte,  which  gave  55.  22.  3.  north  latitude.  I  also 
ttKiV.  tim«^  and  the  watch  was  slow  I.'  30.  14.  appa- 
rent time.  According  to  my  calculation,  this  place  is 
jlbbui  twfentj'-five  miles  sOuth-east  of  the  fork.* 


CHAPTER  V. 

Continue  our  ^of^.  AaiVjr  ftjg.  ThA  wdter  i^s^  Succession  of  ^M^k.  ^r6- 
|re!»ive  account  of  this  oraiKh.  l«eave  the  canoe  to  proceed*  and  ascend  ttn 
hill  to  reconnoitre.  Ciimt)  a  tre£  to  extend  my  view  of  the  country.  Return 
to  tlic  river.  The  canoe  not  arrived.  Gta  in  search  of  it  fotrcTrie  Ifea^  nliui- 
quitpes,  &c.  Increasiiig  anxiety  respecting  the  canoe.  It  at  length  appean. 
viol6dt  sttfrfiT.  Circamstitncesofo'ilr  p'ifbgFesS.  Forced  to  haul  the  c^iroe  i&p 
the  stream  by  the  branches  of  trees.  Succession  of  courses.  Wild  parsnips 
along  tlie  river.  Expect  to  meet  with  natives.  Courses  continued.  Fall  in 
witl)  some  natives.  Our  jntercounie  with  theni.  Account  of  their  dresi,  arms, 
ytensils,  manners,  &c.  New  discouragements  and  difficulties  present  them- 
Jel^es. 

Tuesday 4,]  yy  z  embarked  this  mofniiig  at  foiir,  in  a 
very  heavy  fog*    I'he  vrater  had   been  continually 

.;  *  I  shall  now  proceed  with  my  usual  regylaiityj  wlU(;li,  as  I  have  alreadr  men- 
ttoned,  tas  been,  for  Softie  ddjs,  suipeuided,  fnnnibe  ioss  of  my  book  o|<«MktH- 

tlOD. 


260         Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

rising}  and  in  many  places^  overflowed  its  banks* 
Tht  current  aho  'wa»so  strongs  that  our  prt>gre8S  was 
•  very  tedious,  and  required  tiie  most  laborious  exer* 
tions.  Our  course  was  this  day,  south-sou th-east  one 
mile,  9outh-90uth*\vest  half  a  mile,  south-ea&t  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  north-east  by  cfsSt  ihrce  quarters 
of  a  mile,  south-east  half  a  '  $  "vt^uth-east  by  south 
one  mile,  south-south-ea'st  ot  iiii;  afnd  three  quar- 
ters, south-east- by  south  half  a  ^JleV'  c%  by  south,  a 
quarter  of  a'mile,  «iouth-ea&t  three  ^ai»ter»  of  a  mile, 
north -east  by  east  half  a  mile,  ea«t  by  north  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  south  east  half  a  mile,  south-east  by 
south  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  south-east  half  a  mile, 
north-east  by  east  half  a  mile,  north-north-east  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  to  south  by  east  one  mile  and  an 
»«  half.  We  could  not  find  a  place  jBt  for  an  encamp- 
ment, till  nine  at  night,  when  we  landed  on  a  bank  of 
g^ravel,  of  which  little  more  appeared  above  water 
than  the  spot  we  occupied.  '     •^' 

Wednesday  5.  This  morning  we  found  our  canoe 
and  baggage  in  the  water  which  had  continued  rising 
during  the  night.  We  then  gummed  the  canoe^  as 
we  arrived  at  too  late  an  h»ur  to  perform  that  opera- 
tion on  the  preceding  evening.  This  necessary  bu- 
siness being  completed,  we  traversed  to  the  north 
shore^  where  I  disembarked  with  Mr.  Mackay,  and 
the  hunters,  in  order  to  ascend  an  adjacent  mo«ntain, 
with  the  hope  of  obtaining  a  view  of  the  interior  part 
of  the  country.  I  directed  my  people  to  proceed 
with  all  possible  diligence,  and  that,  if  they  met  with 
any  accident,  or  found  my  return  necessary,  they 
should  fire  two  guns.  They  also  understood,  that 
when  t^hey  should  hear  the  same  signal  from  me,  they 
were  to  answer,  and  wait  for  me,  if  I  were  behind 
them. 

Whence  1  ad  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  hill, 
we  found  that  it  extended  onwards  in  an  even,  level 
country  ;  so  that,  encumbered  as  we  were,  with  the 
thick  wood,  no  distant  view  could  be  obtained  ; 
I  therefore  climbed  a  very  lofty  tree,  from  w^hose  top 
I  discerned,  on  the  right,  a  rid^e  of  mountains  cover- 


^6rth'West  Continent,  of  America.        26 1 

ed  with  snoW)  bearing  about  north-west ;  from  thence 
another  ridge  of  high  land,  whereon  no  snow  was  vi- 
sible, stretched  towards  the  south  ;  between  whiph, 
and  the  snowy  hills  on  the  east  side^  there  appeared 
to  be  an  opening,  whi^l)»,>fje  determined  to  be  the 
course  of  the  rive^f     ^\nn  ;» 

Having  obt^iQedi  Ml  the  satisfaction  that  the  nature 
of  the  place  wpuld  R^w^i',,  we  proceeded  forward  to 
overtake  the  can^,; ^nd  after  a  warm,  walk,  cwne 
down  upon  the  vxv^ry  when  we  discharged  our  pieces 
twice,  but  receive^!  i>o  answering  signal.  I  was  of 
opinion,  that  the.  canqe  /was  before  us,  while  the  In- 
dians entertained  an  opposite  notion.  I,  however» 
crossed  another)  point  of  land,  and  came  again  to  the 
water-side  about  ten.  Here,  we  had  a  long  view  of 
the  river,  whiph  circumstance  excited,  in  my  mind, 
some  doubts  of  mj  former  sentiments.  We  repeated 
our  signals,  but  without  any  return ;  and  as  every 
moment  now  increased  my  anxiety,  I  left  Mr.  Mac- 
kay  and  one  of  the  Indians  at  this  spot  to  make  a 
large  fire,  and  send  jjranches  adrift  down  the  current, 
as  notices  of  our  situation,  if  the  canoe  was  biehind 
Us  i  and  proceeded  with  the  other  Indian  across  a 
very  long  point,  where  the  river  ihakes  a  considera- 
ble bend,  in  order  that  I  might  be  satisfied  if  the  ca- 
noe wa.s  a-head.  Having  been  accustomed,  for  the 
last  fortnight  to  very  cold  weather,  I  found  the  heat 
of  this  day  almost  insupportable,  as  our  ^Yay  Jay  over 
a  dry  sand,  which  was  relieved  by  no  shade,  but  such 
as  a  few  scattered  cypresses  could  afford  us.  .  Abopijl^, 
twelve  we  arrived  once  more  at  the  river,  and.  tlie 
discharge  of  our  pieces  was  as  unsuccessful  as  H  had 
hitherto  been.  The  water  rushed  before  us  wit|i  un- 
common velocity  ;  and  we  also  tried  the  experim.eht 
of  sending  fresh  branches  down  it.  To  add  to  tiie 
disagreeableness  of  our  situation,  tlie  gnats  and  mus- 
quitoes  appeared  in  swarjms  to  torment  us.  When 
we  returned  to  our  compMiions,  we  found  that  they 
had  not  been  contented  with  remaining  in  the  posi- 
tion where  I  had  left  them,  but  had  been  three  or 
foul'  miles  down  the  river,  but  were  come  back  to 


262         Journal  of  a  VoyMge  through  the     . 


their  station,  without  having  made  any  discovery  of 
the  people  on  the  water. 

Various,  very  unpleasing  conjectures  at  once  per- 
plexed and  distressed  us.  The  Indians,  who  are  in- 
clined to  magnify  evils  of  any  and  every  kind,  had  at 
once  consigned  the  canoe  and  every  one  on  board  it 
^o  the  bottom  ;  and  were  already  setting  a  plan  to  re- 
turn upon  a  raft,  as  well  as  calculating  the  number  of 
nights  that  would  be  required  to  reach  their  home. 
As  for  myself,  it  w*  I  be  easily  believed,  that  my 
mind  was  in  a  state  o'i  extreme  agitation  :  and  the  im- 
prudence of  my  conduct  in  leaving  the  people,  in 
such  a  situation  of  dangerous  and  toilsonie  exertion]^ 
added  a  very  painful  mortification  to  the  severe  ap- 
prehensions I  already  suffered  :  It  was  ah  act  of  in- 
discretion which  might  have  put  an  end  to  the  voy- 
age that  I  had  so  much  at  heart,  and  compelled  me 
at  length  to  submit  to  the  scheme  which  my  bimters 
had  already  formed  for  our  return. 

At  half  past  six  in  the  evening,  Mr.  Mackay  and 
the  Cancre  set  off  to  proceed  down  the  .  river,  as  far 
as  they  could  before  the  night  came  on,  and  to  conli- 
nue  their  journey  in  the  morning  to  the  place  \>(here 
we  ha,d  encamped  the  preceding  evening.  I  also  pro- 
posed to  make  my  excursion  upwards ;  and,  if  we 
both  failed  of  success  in  meeting  the  canoe,  it;  was  a-^ 
greed  that  we  should  return  to  the  place  w^er^  we 
now  separated.  * 

la  this  situation  we  had  wherewithal  to  drink  in 
plenty,  but  with  solid  food  vje  were  totally  unprovid- 
ed. We  had  not  seen  even  a  partridge  throughout 
the  day,  and  the  tracks  of  rein-deer  that  wq  h^d  dis- 
covered, were  of  an  old  date.  We  were,  however, 
preparing  to  make  a  bed  of^e  brunches  of  trees, 
where  we  should  have  had  no  other  canopy  than  that 
afforded  us  by  the  heavens,  when  we  heard  a  shot, 
and  soon  after  another,  which  was  the  notice  agreed 
upon,  if  Mr.  Mackay  and%ie  Indian  should  see  the 
canoe  ;  that  fortunate  circumstance  was  also  confirm- 
ed by  a  return  of  the  signal  from  the  people*  I  ^as, 
kowevep)  so  fatigued  from  the  heat  of  the  day,  as  well 


as  mc 
that 

ing  i 

cold  i 

with 

dark 

drenc 

fected 


overy  of 

)nce  per- 

>  are  in- 
d)  had  at 
i  board  it 
Ian  to  rc- 
lup^bctr  oC 
ir  home. 

that  nay 
d  the  im- 
3eople,  in 

exertioDjt 
eve  re  ap- 

act  of  va- 

>  the  vay- 
pelled  me 
ly  bimter* 

ickay  and 
ver,  as  far 
d  to  conli- 
ice  \yhere 

aUo  pro- 
mdj  if  we 

it;  was  a-f 
wher^  we 

drink  i» 
wnprovid- 
hroughout 
Qh^d  dis- 
howcver, 
of  trees* 
than  that 
rd  a  shot, 
ice  agreed 
}d  see  the 
o  confirm- 
i,    I  AvaS) 

ty,  ^S  well 


•    N^rth'West  Continent  of  Amniea,         1W3 

as  incommoded  from  drinking  so  much  coUl  water, 
that  I  did  not  wish  to  remove  till  vSe  following  morn- 
ing \  but  the  Indian  made  such  bitter  compltunts  of 
cold  and  hunger  which  he  suffered,  that  I  complied 
with  his  solicitations  to  depart ;  and  it  was  almost 
dark  \(rhen  we  reached  the  canoe,  barefooted,  and 
drenched  with  nain.  But  these  inconveniencies  af- 
fected me  very  little,  when  I  saw  myself  once  more 
surrounded  with  my  people.  They  informed  me, 
that  the  canoe  had  been  broken  ;  and  that  they  had 
this  day  experienced  much  greater  toil  and  hardships 
than  on  any  former  occasion.  I  thought  it  prudent  to 
affect  a  belief  of  every  representation  that  they  made, 
and  even  to  comfort  each  of  them  with  a  consolatory 
dram  :  for,  however  difficult  the  passage  might  have 
been,  it  was  too  short  to  have  occupied  the  whole  day, 
if  they  had  not  relaxed  in  their  exertions.  The  rain 
was  accompanied  with  thunder  and  lightning. 

It  appeared  from  the  various  encampments  which 
we  had  seen,  and  from  several  paddles  we  had  found, 
that  the  natives  frequent  this  part  of  the  country  at 
the  latter  end  of  the  summer  and  the  fall.  The  course 
to-day  was  nearly  east-south-east  two  miles  and  an 
half,  south  by  west  one  mile,  south- south-east  one 
mile  and  an  half,  east  two  miles,  and  south-east  by 
south  one  mile. 

Thuraday  6.  At  half  past  fbur  this  morning  we 
continued  our  voyage,  our  courses  being  south-east 
by  south  one  mile,  east  by  south  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  south-east  by  east  two  miles.  The  whole  of 
this  distance  we  proceeded  by  hauling  the  eanoe  from 
branch  to  branch.  The  current  was  so  siring,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  stem  it  with  the  paddles :  the  depth 
was  too  great  to  receive  any  assistance  from  the  poles, 
and  the  bank  of  the  river  was  so  closely  lined  with 
willows  and  other  trees,  that  it  was  impossible  to  em- 
ploy the  line.  As  it  was  pft^t  tr-^lve  before  we  could 
iind  a  place  that  would  allow  of  our  landing,  I  could 
not  get  a  meridian  altitude.  We  occupied  the  rest 
of  the  day  in  repairing  the  canoe,  drying  our  clothes, 


264  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


and  making  paddles  and  poles  to  replace  those  which 
h:ad  been  broken  or  lost. 

Friday  7.  The  morning  was  clear  and  calm  ;  and 
since  we  had  been  at  this  station  the  water  had  risen 
two  inches ;  so  that  the  current  became  still  stronger ; 
and  its  velocity  had  already  been  so  great  as  to  justify 
ouir  despair  in  getting  up  it,  if  we  had  not  been  so 
long  accustomed  to  surmount  it.  I  last  night  observ- 
ed an  emersion  of  Jupiter's  first  satellite)  but  inad- 
vertently went  to  bed,  without  committing  the  exav  t 
tinve  to  writing  :  if  my  memory  is  correct  it  was  8. 
18.  10.  by  the  time-piece.  The  canoe,  which  had 
been  little  better  than  a  wreck,  being  now  repaired, 
we  proceeded  east  two  miles  and  a  quarter,  south- 
south-east  half  a  mile,  south-east  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
when  we  landed  to  take  an  altitude  for  time.  We 
continued  our  route  at  south-east  by  east  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile,  and  landed  again  to  determine  the  lati- 
tude, which  is  55.  2.  51.  To  this  \  add,  2*  45.  souths 
ing,  which  will  make  the  place  of  taking  aUitude  for 
time  55.  5.  36.  with  which  I  find  that  my  time-piece 
was  slow  1.  32.  23.  apparent  time  j  and  made  the  lon- 
gitude obtained  122.  35.  50.  west  of  Greenwich^ 

From  this  place  we  proceeded  east  by  south  fo^-r 
miles  and  an  half,  east-south-east  one  mile  and  an  half, 
in  which  space  there  falls  in  a  smalt  river  from  thj 
east ;  east  half  a  mile,  south-east  a  mile  and  an  half, 
east  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  encamped  at  seven  o'clock. 
Mr.  Mackay  and  the  hunters  walked  the  greatest  part 
of  the  day,  and  in  the  course  of  their  excursion  killed 
a  porcupine.*  •  Hiere  we  found  the  bed  of  a  very  large 
bear  quite  fresh.  During  the  day  several  Indian  en- 
campments were  seen,  which  were  of  a  late  erection. 
I'he  current  had  also  lost  some  of  its  impetuosity  du- 
ring the  greater  part  of  the  day. 

Saturday  8.  It  rained  and  thundered  through  the 
night,  and  at  four  in  th^  moniing  we  again  encoun- 
tered the  current.     Our  course  was  east  a  quarter  of 

•  We  had  been  pbliged  to  indulge  our  hunters  witii  sitting  Idle  in  the  canoe,  lest 
their  being  compel  led  to  share  in  the  labor  of  navigating  it  sliould  disgust  and  Unve 
them  from  us.  We,  tliereforo,  emjiloyed  tiiem  as  tnudi  as  possUe  on  shore,  as 
wdi  tu  procure  ptuvisiuns  astu  li^iiten  the  canoe. 


Korth-West  Continent  of  America.        265 


►8C  which 

aim  ;  and 
had  risen 

stronger ; 
,s  to  justify 
ot  been  so 
;ht  observ- 
,  but  inad- 

the  cxavt 
;t  it  was  8. 
which  had 
T  repaired, 
rter,  south- 
r  of  a  mile, 
:ime.  We 
three  quar- 
inethe  lati- 
,45.  south* 
aUitude  for 

time-piece 
ade  the  lon- 
uwichr 

south  fovr 
^nd  an  half, 
er  from  th§ 
and  an  half, 
iven  o'clock, 
greatest  part 
.irsion  killed 

a  very  large 
Indian  en- 
ate  erection. 
>etuosity  du- 

through  the 
rain  encoun- 
*a  quarter  of 

lie  in  the  canoe,  lest 
d  disgust  and  dnv« 

oM^e  on  Jhorci  * 


ft  miity  round  to  south  by  east  along  a  very  high, 
white,  sandy  bank  on  the  east  shore,  three  quarters 
of  a  mile,  south-south-east  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  south- 
t  touthowest  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  south-south-east  one 
milfl  and  a  quavter,  south-east  two  miles,  with  a  slapk 
current,  southT^fuit  by.  east  two  miles  and  a  quarter, 
east  a  quartei;  ol^  a  mile,  south-south-east  a  quarter 
of  a  miley  soiJi^h-east  .by  south  four  miles  and  an  halff 
.'AOUth*east  qne  milei  and  an  luilf,  south-south-west  half 
a  miles  east>northreast  l^alf  a  mile,  east-south-east  a 
quarter  of  a  mi|e.  soutl^-eastby  so^th  one  niilc,  south* 
e^sl^l^yeast  haM  anjile,  ^ast  by  south  three  q^ar^ers 
ot  a  mile«  whjeu  ^he  mountains  were  in  full  view  in 
this  dircctioii^i,  anfj.  eastward.     For  the  three  last  days 
we  could  only  see  them  &.%  short  intervals  and  long 
•  distances  ;  but,, till   then,  they  were   continually  in 
sight  pn  either  side,  from  our  entrance  into  the  fork. 
Those  to  the  left  were  at.  no  great  distance  frotn  us. 
For  the  last  two  days  we  had  been  anxiously  look- 
ing out  for  the  carryingrplace,  but  could  not  discovei^ 
it,  and  our  only  hope  was  m  such  infarmation  as  we 
should  be  able  to  procure  from  the  natives.     All  that 
remained  for  us  to  do,  was  to  push  forwards  till  the 
river  should  be.  no  longer,  navigable  :  it  had  now,  in- 
deed, overflowed  its  banks,    so  th^t  it  was.  «ight  at 
night  before  ve  could  discover  a  place  to  encamp. 
Having  found  plenty  of  wild  parsnips,  we  gathered  the 
tops,  and  boiled  them  with  pemmican  for  our  supper. 
Sunday  9.     The  rain  of  this  morning  terminated 
in  an  heavy  mist  at  half  past  five,     hen  we  embarked 
and  steered  south-east  one  mile  aiul  a  half,  when  it 
veered  north-.north-east  half  a  mile,   south-casl  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,. east  by  south  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,    east-south-east   a  quarter  of    a  mile    south- 
south-east  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  south-east   by   east 
one  mile,    north-east   by    east  half  a   mile,    south- 
east by  east  half  a  mile,   south-east  by  south  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  south-east  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
east  by   south  half  a  mile,  south-east  by   east  half  * 
.mile,  east-north-east  three  quarters  of  a  mile,,  when  it 
veered  to  south-south-east  half  a  mile,  then  back  to 


260  y<mmalqf  a  V'otfagt  through  iht. 

east  ( when  a  blue  mountaiti,  clear  of  snow,  appeared 
a-he«d)  one  mile  and  an  half;  northeast  by  east  half 
a  mile,  east  by  north  one  mile,  when  it  veered  to 
aoroth-ieast    half  a  mile,  then  on  to  north-west  three 
»^«arters  of  a  niile,  and  back  to  north-east  by  east  half 
a  mile,  southby  west  a  quarter  of  fa  mile,  north-east  by 
letfst  to  ncrth^noi'th-east  half  a  mile,  south-Bontlireast  a 
iquarter  of  a  mile,  and  estst  by  north  h«lf  a  mile  :  here 
we  pcrceivcJd  a  ^toell  of  fire ;  and  in  a  short  time 
ii^v^  peopled  in  the  wood»,  as  if  it)  a,  state  of  gi^at 
cohfufcion,  which  was  occasiotried,  as  we  afterwards 
understood,  by  their  discovery  of  us.    At  the  same 
time  this  unexpected  circumstance  produced  some  Wt" 
tie  discomposure  among  ourselves,  as  our  arnvs  were 
not  ih  a  state  of  preparitiron,  and  we  were  as  yet  un- 
able to  ascertain  the  number  of  tflie  pbrty*     I  consider- 
ed, th€rt  if  there  were  but  few,  it  would  be  needless  to 
pursue  them,  as  it  would  not   be  probable  that  we 
should   overtake  them    in    these  thick  woods  j    and 
if  they  were  numerous,   it  would  be  an  act  of  ^reat 
imprudence  to  make  the  attempt,  at  least  during  their 
present  alarm.     I   therefore  ordered  my  people  to 
Strike  off  to  the  opposite  side,  that  we  might  see  if 
any  of  them  had  sufficient  courage  to  remain  j  but, 
before  we  were  half  over  the  river,  which,  ip  this  part, 
is  not  more  than  an  hundred  yards  wide,  two  men  ap- 
peared on  a  I'ismg  ground  overagaiii?^  us,  brandishing 
their  speai% displaying  their  bow3  and  arrows,  and  ao- 
<dGmpanying  their  hostile  gestures  with  loud  vocifera- 
tioiis.     My  interpreter  did  not  hesitate  to  assure  them 
*hat  they  might  dispel  their  apprehensions,  as  we  were 
white  people,  who  meditated  no  injury ,  but  were,  on 
the  contrary,  desirous  of  demonstrating  every  mark 
|0f  kiridness  and  friendship.     They  did  not,  however, 
setin  -disposed  to  confide  in  cur  declarations,   and 
^adtualiy  threatened,  if  we  came  over  before  they  were 
more  ftrlly  satisfied  of  our  peaceable  intentions,  that 
Ihey  would  discharge  their  arrows  at  us.  This  was  a 
decided  kind  of  conduct  which  I  did  not  expect ;  at  the 
sarae  time  I  readily  complied  \vith  their  proposition, 
|U^d  f^fter  some  time  had  passed  in  hearing  and  an- 


,  appeared 
^  east  half 
veered  to 
west  three 
y  east  half 
rth-ea«tby 
>i:)th-east  a 
nile :  here 
&hort  time 
t^  of  great 
afterwards 
t  the  same 
d  some  iit- 
arms  were 
iw  yet  un- 
Icpnsider- 
needle&s  to 
le   that  we 
oods  J    and 
ct  of  ^reat 
uring  their 
people  to 
light  see  if 
main  j  but, 
in  this  part, 
vo  men  ap- 
jrandishing 
ws,  and  ac- 
id voeifera- 
issure  them 
as  we  were 
at  were,  on 
every  mark 
»t,  however, 
itions,   and 
ethey  were 
utions,  that 
This  was  a 
pect ;  at  the 
proposition, 
ing  and  an- 


North'West  Continent  of  Atnetica*        %^!f 

sweriiig  their  questions:,  they  consented  to.  our  landing, 
though  not  without  betraying  very  evident  symptomsi 
of  fear  and  distrust.  They*  however,  laid  aside  their 
Aveapons,  and  when  I  stepped  forward  and  took  eacli, 
of  them  by  the.handv  one  of  them*  but  with  a  very 
tremulous  actlony  ^i^w  hia  knife<  from  his  skeve>  ^nd 
presented  it  to  me  as  a  mark  of  bis  Bubmission  to  my 
*  will  and  pleasure.  On  oiir  first  hearing  the  ngise  of 
these  people  in  the  woodsy  we  displayed  ouv  fla^, 
which  was  now  shown  to  them  as  a  token  of  friend- 
ship. They  examined  us,  and  every  thing  about  4is» 
with  a  minute  and  suspicious  attention.  They  had 
heard,  indeed,  of  white  men,  but  this  was  tlie  first 
time  that  they  had  ever  seen  an  human  b^ing  of  a 
complexion  different  from  their  own.  The  party  had 
been  herd  but  a^w  hours  j  nor  had  they  yet  erected 
their  sheds  ;  and,  except  the  two  men  now  with  ui, 
they  had  all  fled,  leaving  their  li^le  property  behind 
them.  To  those  which  had  given  us  such  a  proof  of 
their  confidence,  we  paid  the  most  conciliating  at- 
tentions in  our  power.  One  of  them  I  sent  to  recal 
|iis  people,  and  the  other,  for  very  obvious  reasons, 
we  kept  with  us.  In  the  mean  time  the  canoe  was 
unloaded,  the  necessary  baggage  carried  up  the  hiil, 
and  the  tents  pitched*     v  , ,,  ;,,;,'. c 

Here  I  determined  trt  remain  till  the  Indiana  be- 
came 80  familiariaed  with  us,  as  to  give  all  the  intel- 
ligence v^hich  We  imagined  might  be  obtained  fronx 
them.  In  fact,  it  had  been  my  intention  to  land  where 
I  might  most  probably  discover  the  carrying-place, 
which  was  our  more  immediate  object,  and  undertake 
marches  of  two  or  three  days  in  different  directions, 
in  search  of  another  river.  If  unsuccessful  in  this 
attempt,  it  was  my  purpose  to  continue  ray  pjrogre^js 
up  the  present  river,  as  far  as  it  was  navigable,  ^nd  if 
ve  did  not  meet  with  the  natives  to  instruct  us  in  our 
further  progress,  I  had  determined  to  return  to  the 
folk,  and  take  the  other  branch,  with  the  hope  of  bet- 
ter fortune. 

It  was  about  three  intlie  afternoon  when  we  landed, 
and  at  five  the  whole  party  of  Indians  were  a&sembj«d. 


i 


268  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

It  consisted  only  of  three  men,  three  women,  and  se- 
ven or  eight  boys  and  girls.  With  their  scratched 
legs,  bleeding  feet,  and  dishevelled  hair,  as  in  the 
hurry  of  thetr  flight  they  had  le'''  their  shoes  and  leg- 
gins  behind  them,  theyi  dis|)layed  a  most  wretched  ap- 
pea;rance  :  they  wer«  consoled,  howevbr,  with  beads, 
and  other  trifles,  which  deemed  to  plosLsethcm  ;  they 
had  pemmican  also  gi^ven  them  to  eat,  Which  was  not 
imwelcome  ;  and,  in  otir  opinion,  at  least,  superior  to 
their  own  provision,  which  consisted  entirely  of  dried 
fish.  When  I  thouglit  that  they  were  sufliciently  com- 
posed, I  sent  for  the  men  to  my  tent,  to  gain  such  in- 
formation respecting  th&  country,  as  I  concluded  it 
was  in  their  power  to  afford  me.  But  my  expecta* 
lions  were  by  no  means  eatisfled  i  they  said  that  they 
iffere  not  acquainted  with  aayriver  t-othe  westward,  but 
thatithere  was  one  from  whence  they  were  just  arriv- 
ed, over  a  carrying-place  ofeicven  days  march,  which 
they  represented  as  being  a  branch  only  of  the  river 
before  us.  Their  iron-work  they  obtained  from  the 
people  who  inhabit  the  bank  of  that  river,  and  adja- 
cent lake,  in  exchange  for  beaver-skins,  and  dressed 
moose  skins.  They  represented  the  latter  as  travelling, 
during,  a  moon,  to  get  to  the  country  of  other  tribes, 
whor  live  in  houses,  with  whom  they  traffic  for  the 
same  commodities;  and  that  these  also  extend  their 
jpurnies  jn  the  same  manner  to  the  sea-coast,  or,  to  use 
their  expression,  the  Stinking  Lake,  where  they  trade 
with  people  like  us,  that  come  there  in  vessels  as  big  as 
islands*  They  added,  that  the  people  to  the  westwa  'd., 
as  they  have  been  told,  are  very  numerous.  Thoaa 
who  inhabit  the  other  branch  they  stated  as  consisting 
of  about, forty  families,  while  they  themselves  did  not 
amount  to  more  than  a  fourth  of  that  number ;  and 
were  almost  continually  compelled  to  remain  in  their 
strong  holds,  where  they  sometimes  perished  with 
cold  and  hunger,  to  secure  themselves  from  their  ene- 
mies, who  never  failed  to  attack  them  whenever  an 
Opportunity  presented  itself. 

This  account  of  the  country,  from  a  people  who  \ 
Uftd^very  reason  to  swppQSj^  w^re   w^U  ^ccju^int^d 


North4Vei  t  Continent  of  Amcr'r.a,  369 


with  every  part  of  it,  threatfefte^l  to  disconcert  the 
project  on  which  my  heart  was  set,  and  -a  which  rriy 
whole  mind  was  occupied.  It  occurred  to  me  howe- 
ver, that  from  fear,  or  other  rtiotives,  tliey  might  be 
tardy  in  their  cotnmunication ;  I  theiefore  assured 
thesa,  that  if  th«y  wonld  dhect  me  fo  the  river  which 
I  described  to  them,  I  would  c^me  in  large  Tess^!s, 
Kke  those  thiit  their  fieiffhboiirs  had  dtscribcd,  to  the 
mouth  of  it,  and  bring  theni  airms  a^yd  ammunition  in 
exchange  for  thu  produce  of  their  country  ;  so  that 
they  might  be  able  to  defend  themselves  as^ainist 
their  enemies,  a-nd  no  longer  remain  in  that  abject, 
distl^S3cet  and  fo^itive  stale  iti  which  they  then  Itved'. 
I  added  al«o,  that  in- the  m<ian  time,  if  tht,^  \\oiikl  oA 
my  return,  accompany  me  below  the  itiountains,  to  a 
country  which-  was  very  abundant  in  aiiitnals,  I  would 
furnish  them,  and  their  coWipamorif»,  with  e\ery  thinij; 
they  might  want ;  and  make  peace  betwe<in  them  and 
th«  Beaver  Indian?.  But  all  these  promises  did  not  ap- 
pear to  advance  the  object  of^  my  inquirites,  and  they 
fetilt  persisted  in  their  ignorance  of  any  such  river  as 
I  had  mentioned,  that  discharged  itse?f  into  the  Sea. 

In  this  state  of  perplexity  and  disappointment,  va- 
rious projects  presented  themselves  to  my  mind, 
which  were  no  sooner  formed,  than  they  wei*e  oisco- 
veired  to  be  impracticable,  and"  were  consequently 
abandoned.  At  one  time  I  thought  of  leaving  th^  ca- 
noe, and  every  thing  it  contained,  to  go  over  land, 
and  pursue  that  chain  of  connection  by  which  these 
people  obtaintheir  iron- work:  but  a  very  brief  coursei 
of  reflection  convinced  me  that  it  would  be  impossi- 
ble for  OS  to  carry  provisions  for  o»jr  support  through 
amy  considerable  part  of  such  a  journey,  as  well  as 
presents,  to  secure  us  a  kind  reception  among  thie  na- 
tives, and  ammunition  for  the  service  of  the  hunters,* 
and  to  defend  ourselves  against  any  act  of  hostility. 
At  another  time  my  solicitude  for  the  success  of  the 
expedition  incited  a  wish  to  remain  with  the  naiivtfs, 
and  go  to  the  sea- by. the  way  they  had  described  ;  but 
the  accomplishment  of  such  a  journey,  even  if  no 
uccident  should  intei-pose,  would  have  required  a  por-- 


1' 


I^yo         yourml  of  a  Vdyagg  thmigh  tAe 

'  tion  of  time  which  it  was  not  jn  my  power  to  bjstdw* 
Jn  my  present  state  of  information,  to  proceed  further 
,  Up  the  river  was  considered  as  a  fruitless  waste  of  toil- 
some exertion  :  and  to  return  unsuccessful,  after  all 
our  labour,  sufferings,  and  dangers,  was  an  idea  too 
painful  to  indulge.  Besides,  I  could  not  yet  aban- 
don the  hope  that  the  Indians  might  not  yet  be  suf- 
ficiently Composed  and  confident,  to  disclose  their 
real  knowledge  of  the  country  freely  and  fully  to  me. 
Nor  was  I  altogether  without  my  doubts  respecting 
the  fidelity  of  my  interpreter,  who  being  very  much 
tired  of  the  voyage,  might  be  induced  to  withhold 
those  communications  which  would  induce  me  to  con- 
tinue it.  I  therefore  continued  my  attentions  to  the 
natives,  regaled  them  with  such  provisions  as  I  had, 
indulged  their  children  with  a  taste  of  sugar,  and  de- 
termined to  suspend  my  convers3*:lon  with  them  till 
the  following  morning.  On  my  expressing  a  desire 
to  partake  of  their  fish,  they  brought  me  a  few  dried 
trout,  well  cured,  that  had  been  taken  in  the  river 
which  they  lately  left.  One  of  the  men  also  brought 
me  five  beaver  skins,  as  a  present. 

Monday  10.  The  solicitude  that  possessed 
mind  interrupted  my  repose ;  when  the  dawn  appi 
cd  I  had  already  quitted  my  bed,  and  was  waiting 
with  impatience  for  another  conference  with  the  na- 
tives. The  sun,  hov/ever,  had  risen  before  they  left 
their  leafy  bowers,  whither  they  had  retired  with  their 
children,  having  most  hospitably  resigned  their  beds, 
and  the  partners  of  them,  to  the  solicitations  of  my 
young  men. 

I  now  repeated  my  inquiries,  but  my  perplexity  was 
not  removed  ^y  any  favorable  variation  in  their  an- 
swers. About  nine,  however,  one  of  them,  still  re- 
;naining  at  my  fire,  in  co  a  ^ersation  with  the  interpre- 
ters, 1  understood  enough  of  his  language  to  know 
that  he  mendoned  something  about  a  great  river,  at 
the  same  time  pointirg  signl'icantly  up  that  which  was 
befoi-e  us.  On  my  inquiring  of  llic  interpreter  res- 
pecting ihat  expreFsion,  I  was  informed  that  he  knew 
of  a  large  river  that  runs  towards  the  mid-day  sun,  ^ 


r-v 


.cij.  ■ 


:o  b  jstb\r# 
id  further 
ite  of  toil- 
,  after  all 
n  idea  too 
yet  aban- 
et  be  suf- 
ose  their 
lly  to  me. 
especting 
iry  much 
withhold 
ne  to  con- 
ns to  the 
as  1  had, 
•,  and  de- 
them  till 
r  a  desire 
few  dried 
the  river 
o  brought 

ssed  r-v 
n  apj  ^.ar 
i  waiting 
h  the  na- 
they  left 
with  their 
leir  beds, 
ns  of  my 

exity  was 

their  an- 
,  still  re- 
interpre- 
;  to  know 
river,  at 
I'hich  was 
reter  res- 
he  knew 
iay  sun,  t^ 


lyfot  ih-West  Continent  of  A/nerica,        2Ti 

branch  of  which  fiowed  near  the  source  of  that  which 
we  were  now  navigating ;  an  i  that  there  were  only 
three  small  lakes,  and  as  many  carrying-places,  lead- 
ing to  a  small  river,  which  discharges  itself  into  the 
great  river,  but  that  the  latter  did  not  empty  itself  into 
the  sea.  'The  inhabitants,  he  said,  built  houses,  lived  on 
islands,  and  were  a  numerous  and  warlike  people.  I 
desired  him  to  describe  the  road  to  the  other  riter,  by 
delineating  it  with  a  piece  of  coal,  on  a  strip  of  bark, 
which  he  accomplished  to  my  satisfaction.  The  opi- 
nion that  the  river  did  not  discharge  itself  into  the 
sea,  I  very  confidently  imputed  to  his  ignorance  of  the 
country. 

My  hopea  were  now  renewed,  and  an  object  pre- 
sented itreif  which  awak&ned  my  utmost  impatience. 
To  faciliti  te  its  attainment,  one  of  the  Indians  was 
induced,  by  presents,  to  accompany  me  as  a  guide  to 
the  tlrst  inhabitants,  which  we  might  expect  to  meet 
on  the  small  lakes  in  our  way.  I  accordingly  resolv- 
ed to  depart  with  all  expedition,  and  while  my  people 
were  makirg  every  necessary  preparation,  I  employed 
myself  in  writing  the  following  description  of  the  na- 
tives around  me. 

They  are  low  in  stature,  not  exceeding  five  feet  six 
or  seven  inches ;  and  they  are  of  that  meagre  appear- 
ance [which  might  be  expected  in  a  people  whose  life 
h  one  succession  of  difficulties  in  procuring  subsist- 
ence. Their  faces  are  round,  with  high  cheek  bones  i. 
and  their  eyes,  which  are  small,  are  of  a  dark  brown 
color ;  the  cartilage  of  their  nose  is  perforated,  but 
without  any  ornaments  suspended  from  it ;  their  hair 
is  of  a  dingy  black,  hanging  loose  and  in  disorder  over 
their  shoulders,  but  irregularly  cut  in  the  front,  so  as 
not  to  obstruct  the  sight ;  thf  *r  beards  are  eradicated, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  straggling  hairs,  and  their 
complexion  is  a  swarthy  yellow. 

Their  dress  consists  of  robes  made  of  the  skins  ©C 
the  beaver,  the  ground-hog,  and  ; '.  re-n-deer,  dressed 
in  the  hair,  and  of  the  luoose-^AiU  v*  [:  \out  it.  All  of 
them  are  ornamented,  with  a  fnng  ',  v/hile  some  of 
them  have  ta-ssds  Jmngirig  down  tiit;  :v?-*imsj  those  ol 


2^2  y&urnat  afa  Voyogt  through  ihe 

thft  grauncVhc^  are  dccoriLtod  on  the  fur  side  with  the 
tails  of  the  animal),  which  they  do  not  separate  from 
thenif  Their  garments  they  tie  aver  the  shoulders, 
and  faaten  them  KMtnd  the  middle  with  a  belt  of  green 
skin,,  whieh  i&  as  stiff  as  horn*  Their  leggins  arc 
long,  and  if  they  were  topped  with  a  waistband,  might 
be  ealled  trowsers  i  they^  as  weH  a»  their  6hoc%  are 
inad«l*of  dressed  moose,  elk,  o¥  rein-deer  skini.  The 
organs,  of  generations  they  leave  imcovered. 

The  women  differ  little  in  their  dress^  from  the 
men,  except  in  the  addition  of  an  apvon,  whiidli>  is^»- 
tened  round  the  waist,  and  hcuigs  down>  to  the  knees. 
They  are  m  general  of  a  more  lusty  make  thaw  the 
ether  sex,  aad  taUey  in  proportion,  but  infinitely  their 
inferiors  i:k  ckanMne&s.  A  bl^ok  artificial  stripe 
evosses  the  face  beneath  the  eye,  from  car  to  ear, 
which  I  fi4'8t  took  for  scabs,  from  the  accumulation  of 
dirt  on  ii?-  Their  hair,  which  is  longer  than  thrt  ef 
the  men^  is  divided  from  t^le-  forehead  to  the  a'own, 
and  di;awn  back  in  long  pJait^^*  behind  the  earat.  They 
have  also  a  few  white  beadiv,  which  they  gvt  where 
they  procure  their  ii'^n  r  they  are  fiwn  a  line  t&  an 
inch  in  length,  and  are  worn  in  their  eara,  but  are  not 
ofi  European  manufacture.  These,  with  bi^acelets 
made  of  horn  and  bone,  compose  all  the  ornaments 
which  deoor£M;e  tlieir  p«rsoms.  Necklaces  of  the  gris- 
ly or  whita  bear's  claws,  are  »vorn  exclusively  by  the 

Tiieir  arms  consist  -f  bew:  made  of  cedar,  six  feet' 
in  length,  with  a  sJi>:t  iixjn  foike  atone  end,  and' 
serve  occasionally  as  a  ^pea;\  >  heir  arrows  are  well 
made,  barbed,  and  pointed  '»vuh  uon,  flint,  stone,  or 
bone;  they  are  feathered,  and  ft<m  two  to  two  feet' 
and  an  half  in  length.  They  hav«  tNvo  kinds  of  spears, 
but' both  are  doubleedged,  ainl  of  well-  polisiicd  iron  ; 
one  of  them  is  about  twelve  inches  Ibng,  and' tvvo 
wide  ;  the  other  about  half  the  width,  and'  two'-thirds 
of  the  length '5  the  shafts  of  the  first  ai^e  eight' feet 
in  length,  and  the  latter  six.  They  have  also  speare 
made  of  bone.  Their  knives  consist  of  pieces  of  iron, 
bUaped  wid  handled  by  themseivw.     Their  ases^  are 


a 
he 

udewhhtli^ 
paratc  from 
e  &houlderS) 
ek  of  green 
leggins  arc 
bandr  mtgbt 

fthoes^  are 
skin-  The 
sd. 

&  from  the 
vhidfi*  is  £ai»- 
>  the  knees, 
e  than'  the 
initeljr  their 
[icisil  strips 
I  car  to  ear, 
imulation  of 
ian   thrt  of 

the  ci'Gwn, 
ara.  fhey 
g«;t  where 
line  t&  an 
but  are  not 
h   biTWjelets 

ornaments 
of  the  g»r«- 
iveijt  by  the^ 

lar,  six  feet' 
\G  endi  and' 
W9  are  well 
t,  stone,  or 
to  two  feet' 
&  of  spears, 
Isiied  iron  ; 
g,  and'  tvvo 
i'  two-thirds 
s  eight'  feet 
also  speare 
rces  of  ironj 
nraxes^are 


Xbrth'West  Continent  of  America,        2TS 

Bomething  like  our  adze,  and  they  use  them  in  the 
same  manner  as  we  employ  that  instrument.  They 
were,  indeed,  furnished  with  iron  in  a  manner  that  I 
could  not  have  supposed,  and  plainly  proved  to  me 
that  their ,  communication  with  those  who  communi- 
cate with  the  inhabitants  of  the  sea-coast,  cannot  be 
very  difficult,  and  from  their  ample  provision  of  iron 
weapons,  the  means  of  procuring  <it  must  b(f  of  a 
more  distant  origin  than  I  at  first  conjectured* 

They  have  snares  made  of*  green  skins,  which  they 
cut  to  the  &ize  of  sturgeon  twine,  and  twist  a  certain 
number  of  them  together;  and  though  when  com- 
pleted, they  do  not  exceed  the  thickness  of  a  cod- 
line,  their  strength  is  sufi&cientio  hold  a  moose-deer: 
they  are  from  one  and  an  half  to  two  fathoms  in  length* 
Their  nets  and  fishing-lines  are  made  of  willow^bark 
and  nettles;  those  niade  of  the  latter  are  finer  and 
smoother  than  if  made  with  hempen  thread.  Their 
hooks  are  small  bones,  fixed  in  pieces  of  wood  split 
for  that  purpose,  and  tied  round  with  fine  watape, 
which  has  been  particularly  described  in  the  former 
voy£^e.  Their  kettles  are  also  made  of  watape,  which 
is  so  closely  woven  that  they  never  leak,  and  they  heat 
water  in  them,  by  putting  red-hot  stones  into  it. 
There  is  one  kind  of  tiiem,  made  of  spruce-bark> 
which  they  hang  over  the  fire,  but  at  such  a  distance 
as  to  receive  the  heat  without  being  in  reach  of  the 
blaze  ;  a  very  tedious  operation.  They  have  various 
dishes  of  wood  and  bark ;  spoons  of  horn  and  wood, 
and  buckets :  bags  of  leather  and  net-work,  and  bas- 
keti  of  bark,  some  'jC  which  hold  their  fishing-tackle, 
wMle  others  are  contrived  to  be  carried  on  the  back. 
They  have  a  browl^  kind  of  earth  in  greajt  abundance, 
with  which  they  rub  their  clothes,  not  only  for  orna- 
ment, but  utility,  as  it  prevents  the  leather  from  be- 
coming hard  aft^r  it  has  been  wetted.  They  have 
spruce  bark  in  great  plenty,  with  which  they  make 
their  canoes,  an  operation  that  does  not  require  any 
great  portion  of  skill  or  ingenuity,  and  is  managed  in 
the  following  manner  ; — The  bark  is  taken  off  the  tree 
til?  whple  l^ng^th  of  the  intended  cahoe,  which  is  com^ 


'-■' 


a74         yoittmal  of  a  Voyagt  thrwgh  ih§ 


itionl3r  about  eighteen  feot,  and  is  sewed  with  watape 
at  both  ends  ;  two  kths  are  then  laid,  and  ilxed  along^ 
tSie  edge  of  the  ba?k  whieh  forma  the  gunwale  ;  in 
these  are  fixed  the  barS)  and  against  them  bear  the 
ribs,  or  timbers,  that  are  cut  to  the  length  to  which 
the  bark  can   be  stretched  i    and  to  give  additional" 
strengfth)  str){>&  of  weod  are  laid  between  them  :  to 
make  the  whole  watertight,  ^ffi  is  abundantly  Em- 
ployed.   These  vessels  carry  from  t«^o  to  ftVe  pioplei 
Canoes  of  a  similar  construction  wert!  Used  by  the 
Beaver  Indians  within  these  few  yeafs,  but  they  now 
very  generally  employ  those  made  of  the  bark  of  the 
birch-tree,  which  arp  by  far  more  durable.    Their 
.paddles  are  about  six  feet  long,  and  about  one  foot  is 
occupied  by  the  blade^  which  is  in  the  ^hape  of  an 
'''  heart.      .'-     ri'tcf'^ici  (i-^m  bm  li^Miirc  t*"'-^^*!  *-j^**v'  ■" 

ViPrevious  to  our  departure,  thfe  natives  haii  caught 
a  couple  of  ti*out,  of  about  six  pounds  weight,  which 
they  brought  me,  and  I  paid  ihcm  with  beads.  They 
likewise  gave  me  a  net,  made  of  nettles,  the  skin  of 
a  moose-deer,  dressed,  and  a  white  horn  in  the  shape 
of  a  spoon,  which  resembles  the  horn  of  the  buffaloe 
of  the  Copper- Mine  River  j  but  their  description  of 
the  animal  to  which  it  belongs  does  not  answer  to  that. 
My  young  men  also  got  two  quivers  of  excellent  ar- 
rows, a  collar  of  white  bear's  claws,  of  a  great  length, 
horn  bracelets^  and  other  articles,  for  which  they  re- 
ceived an  ample  remuneration. 


^iffiTTi^llTWir^*! 


CHAPTER  VI, 


COB^nue  (bevaj'ai^..  $uteof  ttie  river.  Succession  of  e«uK««.  Sentiment  of 
the  guide.  Conical  mountain.  Coniinu4tipn  yt  tomses.  Leave  the  inuin 
brknolu  inter  •fcotbar.  Description  of  it.  SHw  beaver.  Enter  a  lake.  Ar- 
ri»c  at  the  uupgr  source  of  the  Uniigiih,  or  Peace  HJver.    J^and  apd  cross  (oa 

C'-seeo«d  lake,  local  circums(ances,  Proceed  tea  third  lake.  Enter  a  river. 
£pxUU5ter  various  difiicultiet.    \n  d.ifvjer  of  being  lost.    The  circumstances 

'  of  that  situi-tion  describe!.  Alarm  iud  dissaijsfaQtioH  among  the  people. 
They  »  e  at  length  compoted.  The  canoe  repaired.  Roads  cut  through  -woods. 
Pass  morasse?.  The  gutdc  deserts.  After  a  succeujon  of  diiHcultl(?l|  dangi'ri> 
and  toikome  marches,  we  arrive  at  the  jrcat  rive^. 

*B«el793.  7   A  ,     , 

Aiattday  io.s  £\T  ten  we  Were  ready  to  embark.    I  then 
tookleaveof  the  Indians,  but  encou ragged  them  to  expect 


ith  watape 
Ixed  alongf 
inwale  ;  in 
n  bear  the 
h  to  which 
additional" 
them :  to 
dantly  Unl- 
ive peoples 
led  by  the 
t  they  now 
)ark  of  the 
)le.    Their 
one  foot  is 

hape  of  an 

.''■'• 

had  caught 
ght,  which 
ids.  They 
the  skin  of 
n  the  shape 
he  buffuloe 
scription  of 
wer  to  that, 
xcellent  ar- 
reat  length, 
ch  they  rc- 


%  SenMtnenJ  of 
-eave  the  vamn 
nler  a  lake.  Ar- 
ind  4n(i  cross  ioi> 
e.  Enter  a  river, 
he  circumstancps 
ung  Uie  people, 
t  through  woods. 
KUlti«»j  dangers, 


k.     I  then 
into  expect 


NorthAVeat  CentinerJ  tf  Amtrica,       578 

us  in  two  moons,  and  eacpi^ased  an  hope  that  I  should 
find  them  on  the  road  with  any  of  their  relutioni 
whom  they  might  meet.  1  also  returned  the 
beaver-tkint  to  the  man  who  had  presented  them  to 
me,  desiring  him  to  take  care  of  tliem  till  I  cam« 
back)  when  I  would  purchase,  them  of  him*  Our 
guide  ex|)re3ae4  p)uch  Ie«s  oonceni  abotH  the  under- 
takijng  m  which  h«  had  engaged^  than  his  com- 
panipn^)  wjbo  appeared,  to  be  affected  with  great  soli- 
citude for  his  safety.  joh.>H7i»'ffoa  nwi 

We  now  pushed  off  the  canoe  from  the  bank)  and 
proceeded  easft  half  a  mile,  when  a  riter  flowed  in 
from  the  left,  about  half  as  large  as  that  which  we 
were  navigating.  ,  W  e  continued  the  same  course 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  when  we  missed  two  of  our 
fowlmg  pieces,  which  had  been  forgotten,  and  I  sent 
their  owners  back  for  them>  who  wei^  absent  on  this 
eiTand  upwards  of  an  hour.  We  now  proceeded 
north-ea^  by  east  half  a  mile,  north-eaKt  by  north 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  when  the  current  slackened  t 
there  was  a  verdant  spot  on  the  left,  where,  from 
the  remains  of  some  Indian  timber-work,  it  appeared 
that  the  natives  had  frequently  encamped.  Our  next 
course  was  east  one  mile,  and  we  saw  a  riige  of 
mountains  covered  with  snow  to  the  south-east.  The 
land  on  our  right  was  low  and  marshy  for  three  or 
four  miles,  when  it  rose  into  a  range  of  heights  that 
extended  to  the  mountains.  We  proceeded  east- 
south-east  a  mile  and  an  half,  south-east  by  east  one 
mile,  east  by  south  three  quarters  of  a  niile,  south-east 
by  east  one  mile,  east  by  south  half  a  mile,  north-east 
by  east  one  mile,  south-east  half  a  mile,  east-north-east 
a  mile  ami  a  v]iiarter,  south-south-east  half  a  mile,  nortk- 
north-east  a  mile  and  an  half  ;  here  a  river  flowed  in 
from  the  left,  which  was  about  one  fourth  nart  as 
large  as  that  which  received  its  tributary  waters. 
We  then  continued  east  by  south  half  a  mile,  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  south  of  the  above  riv<y% 
The  course  now  veered  'short,  south-west  by  west 
thi'ee  quarters  of  a  mile,  east  by  south  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  south  half  a  milct  south-east  by  south  >iuklf  a 


aro         journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


inUe)  south' west  a  quarter  of  a  mile^  east  by  south  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  veered  to  west-north-weat  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  south-west  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  east- 
•louth-east  one  quarter  of  a  mile,  east  one  sixth  of  a 
mile,  suuth-south^west  one  twelfth  of  a  mile,  east- 
south-east  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  north-east  by  east 
one  third  pf  a  mile,  east  by  north  one  twelfth  of  i  a 
mile,  north-east  by  east  one  third/ of  a  mile,  .east  one 
aUte^nth  of  a  mile,  south-east  >  one  ^twelfi^i  6ft iai  mile, 
porth-east  by  east  one  twelfth  of  ,ai>mile,  east  one 
•eighth  of  a  mile,  and  east«south-«ast  half  a  mile,  when 
we  landed  at  seven  o'clock  and  encamped*  During 
the  greatest  part  of  the,  diatauce  we  came  ito-dtiy,  the 
^river  runs  close  under  the  mountains  ooithe.lefL.  ■-  ■ 
>^  'lueeUdij  11.  ,  Th^  .morning  .was  qleac  anditcold. 
"  ^.On  my  interpreter's  encouraging  the  guide  to  dispel 
*,all  apprehension,  to  maintain  his  fidelity  tome^-and 
Tiot  to  desert  in  the  night,  "  How  is  it  possible  for 
;"  me,"  he  replied,  "  to  leave  the  lodge  of  .the  Great 
."  Spirit ! — When  he  tells. me  that  he  has  no  further 
.**  occasion  for  me,  I  will  then  return  to  my  children." 
As  we  proceeded,  however,  he  soon  lost,  and  with 
'good  reason,  his  exalted  notions  of  me. 

At  four  we  continued  our  voyage,  steering  east  by 
south  a  mile  and  an  half,  east-south-east  half  a  mile. 
A  river  appeared  on  the  left,  at  the  foot  of  a  moun- 
"tain  which,  from  its  conical  form,  my  young  Indian 
stalled   the  Beayer   Lodge    Mountain.     Having  pro- 
ceeded south-south-east  half  a  mile,  another  river  ap>- 
|leared  from  the  right.     We  now  came  in  a  line  with 
the  beginning  of  the  mountains  we  saw  yesterday ; 
Others  of  the  same  kind  ran  parallel  with  them  on  the 
left  side  of  the  river,  which  was  reduced  to  the  breadth 
61*  fifteen  yards,  and  with  a  moderate  curr.int.  . 
i';,  "^,^;i^9w  steered  east-north-east  one  eighth  of  a  mile, 
South-east  by  south  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  east-south- 
"tCaSt  one  sixth  of  a  mile,  south-west  one  eighth  of  a 
hiile,  east-south-east  one  eighth  of  a  mi'e,  south-south- 
east one  sixth  of  a  mile,  north-east  by  east  one  twelfth 
*of  a  mile,  east-south-eivst  half  a  mile,  south-west  by 
west  one  third  of  a  mile,  south-south-east  one  eighth 


i^r  a  n 

iiortli-c 

fourth  ( 

north-e 

ou  the 

of  roun 

mits,  ^ 

withe  re 

the    hij 

twelfth 

mile,  s( 

east  by 

ver  fell 

sixth  of 

twelfth 

one  thir 

south -w 

east  hal 

south  a 

half  a  n 

north  pi 

a  mile, 

quarters 

water,  t 

derto  st 

an  hour 

east-nor 

fiouth  a 

a  mile,  i 

one  sixt( 

east  a  ^ 

south-8o 

mile,  no 

fiouth-ea 

one  twel 

fiom  th< 

south   b 

€Jghth  o 

cast  by  r 

south-ea 

<>ne  fourt 


ty  south  a 
»t  a  quar- 
ile,    caat- 

sixth  of  a 
lile,  cast- 
ftl-  by  cast 
elfth  oCia 
i,i«east  one 

(jfiflimile, 
,  east  one 
Cttile*  when 

to-day,  the 

and !  tcold* 
e  to  dispel 
to  'iwei.  and 
possible  for 
[".the  Great 
I  no  further 
r  children." 
L    and  with 

ing  east  by 
half  a  mile, 
af  a  moun- 
ung  Indian 

aving   pro- 
ler  river  ap^ 

a  line  with 

yesterday  ; 
them  on  the 

the  breudth 

rent. 

ithof  amile» 
east-south- 

eighth  of  a 
south-sou  ih- 
one  twelfth 
3uth.-west  by 

,t  one  eighth 


ijf  a  mile)   »outh-4outhriMr«st  pf)<e  quarter  of  a  mile;, 
iiurtl\-east  one    sixth   of  a  nuifC)  south  by  west  ooic 
fourth  of  a  mile,  east  three  quaiters   (»f  a  mUe^  and 
north-east  one  qucrter  of  a  mile,     ilere  the  mountain 
ou  the  left  appeared  to  be  composed  of  a  succcfistoa 
of  round  hills,  covert  with  wood  filfuost  to  their  Aiun* 
mitS)  which  were  white  with  snow,  and  crowr<ed  with 
withered  trees*     We  now  steered  east,  in.  a  dinC  with 
the    high    lands  on    the  right  hve  miles  ;  north  one 
twelfth  of  a  mile,  north-east  by  north  one  eighth  of  a 
mile,  south  by  east  one    sixteenth  of  a  milei,  north<> 
east  by  north  one  fourth  of  a  mile)  where  another  ti- 
ver  fell  in  from  the  right  ;  north-east  by   east  one 
sixth  of  a  mile,  east  two  miles  and  an  half,  south  one 
twelfth  of  a  mile,  north-east  half  a  mile,  south-eaM: 
one  third  of  a  mile,  east  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  souths 
south-west   one   sixteenth    of  a   mile,  north-east  hy 
east  half  a  mile,  east  one  mile  and  threie  quarters^ 
south  and  south-west  by  westihalf  a  mile,  north-east 
half  a  mile,  south  one  third  of  a  mile,  north-east  by 
north  one  sixth  of  a  mile,  east  by  souUi  onefburttecif 
a  mile,  south  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  south-east  thre^ 
quarters  of  a  mile.     The  canoe  had  taken  in  so  niuch 
water,  that  it  was  necessary  for  us  to  land  here,  in  or- 
der to  stop  the  leakage,  which  occasioned  the  delay  of 
an  hour  and  a  quarter,  north-east  a  quaifter  of  a  milei 
east-north-east  a   quarter   of  a  mile,  south-east   by 
touth  a  sixteenth  of  a  mile,  east  by  south  a  twelfth  m 
a  mile,  north-east  one  sixth  of  a  mile,  '^ast-south-eas^ 
one  sixteenth  of  amile,  south-twest  half  a  mile,  north- 
east a  quaiiter  of  a  mile,  east  by  south  half  a  mile, 
south-south-eaat  one   twelfth    of  a  mile,  east  half 
mile,  north-east  by  north  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  south-^ 
south-east  a   quarter  of  a  mile,  north-east  by  north 
one  twelfth  of  a  mile,  m  here  a  smail  river  flowed  in 
from  the  left,  south-^ast  by  east  one  twelfth  of  a  mile, 
south   by    east   a  quarter   of  a  mile,  south-east  one 
eighth  of  a  mile,  east  one  twelfth  of  a  mile,  north- 
east by  north  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  south  half  a  mile^ 
south-east  by  south  one  eighth  of  a  mile,  north-east 
one  fourth  of  a  mile,  ^uth«>east  by  east,  and  soutli-  s 

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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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IfTB  journal  6fu  V^(^  through  the 

#^$tby  south  bnfethiM  of  a  telle;  ealUf-sdtath-east,  and 
north-north'-e&st  dne  third  of  si  mt!e,  arid  sbtith  by 
m^t^  east  and  eafet-tiorth-east  one  eighth  of  ^  mile. 

Herf;  we  qiiitted  the  thai^  tli^f^ndi,  wMth,  accord- 
1^^  to  the  infortnaticMl  of  oiif  ^  gftitde,*  fertrilnatw  at  a 
f ^^rt  distaiice^  #h^re  it  Is  ^i6p|^<^d  bt-tiie  afrtov  i;v4iich 
covera  the  moqritaths.  'Th  tht^  yaftib  %!fetioti  ifiiaivai. 
i^yyi^i^  jkp^ars  tbte  of' Vttl-f^^ekt depth,  artd'fe 
lullof  spow,  tii^at  rises  iii^^lj^*  te  tti^ 
Ji^ttd^?^lii  fpiTns  a  i^seryoif  of  itii€Jlf  iitlffidifeht'  to  'fdi«- 
Ijisli » ,  fiver  wheneVcr  tih^i^  Wi.  ttod^t'fete  d%rfe6  -  bf 
h^f^.,  the  ^^fanth  wHch  =1*^^  f^ft  i^^A^fibt,  *ttt  this 
$m^x  ^rej'thah  teii'^ai^dis^'tlf'ottdl  Whll^  Aat  whifch 
%^  /entered  was  stilt 'feais.  'tJe^' the  ci/rr<!nt  ^os  Vc- 
mpMvBifi^  =aii4«tK^  'ch^iM#rW*^eahd^riftg'V  th«*»^^ 
i  loniistiipes  foj^d  li  dliMfcclft  ' i&^'it^^^  the  tfk\<it  Ibti 

f^f  ,f  amsdl  lake  or^hd^iif^dtlt^^t^^  one  m         t'his 

(Bntimce  by  the  river  iiftcy  thfe  klce  wis  almost  cIJ0«Il- 

fd,Mp  by  a  quawtity  of  drift-wood,  Which  app&ai»e#  to 

ii^l^'to  be  an  ^ktraordihiary  circumstaTide;  1>^t  I  after- 

iMT^ds  found  that  it  fklls  down  frbin  ^thife  fhoufiital^s. 

irii«  water,  however,  was  so  Mgh,  ihitt  tiwi  xoontry 

.IpTjas^eioitir^Iy  oYerfloWed,  And  Wfe;tftiS*fcd  With  tht^ea- 

HOj^u-among  the   branches  of  fi'ees.    The  priticlpal 

.  jf  pod,  alon^  the  banks  is  spruc^/  intCrtiiiixC^^wlth  a  i^w 

;9Fliite  bicch,  growing  oii  detached* spbts,  the  inierVen- 

>|i)g>P^es  beii^g  covered  with  willow  and  fttder.    We 

,.|idy!ftncc4  about  a  ini|e  in  thelak6^  and  took' up  our 

slal^uofi  for.  th)e  iiight  at  an  old  Indian  ehcampnient; 

Here  we  expected  to  meet  with  natives^  but  were  dis- 

,.  s^pp^tited :  but  our  i^uide  encouraged  us  with  the  hope 

of  ai^il>g  8on>e  on  the  morrow.     We  saw  beaver  in 

ljJ|i<^tCj0^se  of  the  afternoon^  but  did  not  discharge  our 

J.  nieaeS)  fr^mi  fear  of  ala;rmin||;  th^  inhabftants ;  there 

ojiypriei  alsa  iawjuis  in  great  numbers,  with  geese  and 

^^^l^S)  which  we  did  not  di^urb  for  the  same  reason. 

.We  observed  also  the  tracks  of  moose-deer  that  had 

proased  the  river  ;  and  wild  parsnips  grew  here  in 

abund^^ce,  which  have  been  already  mentioned  as  a 

gratefiil  Viegctable.    Of  birds,  we  saw  blue  jays,  yel- 


le 


)forth'We8tCo^tir{entvpf>  America,        %79 


ttr-east,  and 
tl  sbuth  by 
iif  'il  mile, 
eh,  accord- 
rilnates  at  a 
^iMfir  w4iich 
ttbtikieiVai. 
?p«Hi  artd'is 

teht  to  fdi«- 
3  deig^reebf 
h6t,^at  thi* 
tiiat  whifch 
^nt^as  ve- 
fig:^  thafwe 
f  tahoe'^bH 
ti%  Wrtraiice 
mile*  I'his 
nbst  clioAlt- 
ip|^eai'ed:'to 
Mwx.  I  ttfttt*- 
ihbtifitd^s. 
Ii€l  codtttry 
irith'  th«  >ca- 
e  ptififclpal 
I'wi^  a  few 
re  interVen- 
fclder.  We 
lok'  up  our 
campment; 
It  were  dis- 
ith  the  hope 

beaver  in 
charge  our 
iQtB;  there 

geese  and 
me  reason, 
er  that  had 
iw  here  in 
tioned  as  a 
c  jays,  yel- 


low birds,  and  one;  beautiful  j^umming^bfird;  of  the 
first  and  last>  I  |u4  notiseen  ai^y  sioce  I  hkdbeipniti' 
thQinorthtwesi*  ,'-.,'.  'J'  ,  '''■/i'V;.;  ' 

Wednesday  \^,  The  weather  w^  the  laniii  at •/<*$-; 
t^pday^  and  we  prQcee4ed « |}etlw^en  Uiree '  aiid  ^ur 
init!l»&-^iocniiig.  We  took  up  the  neC:iii^ieli;)*rc  bwl 
set  the  pf>ffii^duig  evening,  when  it  contatixied^  iirt^f , . 

oii#f«w.i|i|(ie„,fiisl|^  .Qne^.p;^rP|»  a»?<i,t^re&  J^*^*  llNe  l«Jkc 
is «^u|  t^wfq  mileA  in  le^S^  eakt Sy^^f]^^  i^fr^L 
threes  (to/eve^undrcd  yarS^  >,ide.\  Tliis  t'ct^iti^«i 
the  higiiestan^  ^quthefj^m^^i *^<^  ^X\iiJ^t\fi^% 
or i  Peace ^iyer,  l^t^4|5  i(^.^4rfii0rtiij1oiii^^ 
weat  of . <ati?enwici\|  lyii^^  'ii. wiWtk: c0i^^t 

thro^b  ,a,.  lyast  ^xtje^i^*bf  ^^i^ii^^^f ■  wcet)HEfl^  tHIi^ 
largefm^Tfl  in  4ta^  progr^sp*  and  piil^y%  tl^tt^^h  tBc 
Sl|iv«  jUake^ > epj^itiesitself ifiio  \li^ motxl^ Olei^^h 
7,Q^,»erth^  latitude?,!  ai^d,*i?ou,i  i'3^.  wfcit  ^rittidlii  \« 
i -  We  landed ,  aad.u^lo^^^ed^  wHer^  We  'h\iXkf  a  fafi^a^ifi 
pftth  leading  over  .^^Ipi^iridge  of  liuid  j^  hiitt-^ 

dred  and  seye»teenj.pajce4»  ip  leng;th  to ;  ailbth^  siikiill 
lake.  The  distajojce  .betWeeii  the.  t^16  ifiLOutitainfs  At 
this  place  it  <abput.  a  ^quarter  o^ ^m^'^  f6tk,f  l^*^' 
picea  presenting  themselves  ,on  %»t)&  ^H^*  A  Ijiy 
large  spruce  trees  aQ4  li^rds  wei^e  scattlered  dl^^'the 
cari'yit^-plsice.  ^j^i^  were  also  Willows  atehjj^'ttte 
Side  ^L  t|ie.  !«*teri»  with  p|^^^  gjrasi  attd  Vi6^. 
The  i)atiirf»  ][u4lQfk  t^eir  iol^ 
kets  hai^ipg,  oti  t^e  treps,  whjtli  cinit^ed  Viili^iiMIs^ 
articles*  From  xh<^  latter  I  td^k  vi^iii^^ ac(»i(&))^lis» 
a  goat'*  hpm»  ^  a  kind  o%  "^0^  t#P>  ^^  %iifoh, 
as  ou^  guid^t.  informed, piey  tile  ^^imd-hbg  i^^t^^.; 
1  left,  however,  in  exchange^  -  a  ktiif^,  ^.sbhiief-  tiife- 
steels,  beads,  awls,  *  8?c,,  l|erc|  two  StreaiSw  *  t#tfiBle 
down  the  rocks  from  th^  right,  iiidlpit  ^Cfiiifiieiv^s 
in  the  lake  which  we  had  left  ^Whlt^  tWbiftttrertfl^ll 
from  the  opposite  heights,  and  '^Hde  ihtVtll^-l^e 
which  w«  were  approaching  ;  ttii  ^  bciijg  the^  hig^Y^st 
point  of  land  dividing  these  viratersj  and  Wii  a>^B  Ihfew 
going  with  the  stream.  This  lake  runs  i«  the  sitfee 
course  as  tlie  last,  hut  is  rather  nufrbweH  ^nd  tiot 
«aore  than  hal£  the  length.     We' wbre  obli^  to. 


%m        .ydtemM  df>a\V$^^  tftmigtk'  tki' 


ck^  ftw^y  8i|»ki>ftffloa(tti%  drift^vodd  tor  g^  to  the  fcarrt- 
ryingp-i^labe)  oye:r.\Kbi^h  is«  beotete  palb^of  only  an 
hupdred  and  ^eventy-iive  paces  long.  ¥i^  kddtftemt^* 
ties{iteeh&  'by  *«t  Bmalktn\ref^  wbUlii^ilf;it|iO  >ciiaHi^ 
Wei^  tkQt iDteriliptc^ Uy  laq;^  tmts i Unit  bid; lidlen 
across  it,r  wciiUd  J^Tt^  ludmUUd  o£  oi^r.  ^anto&i  ^Uiv  all 
itSiisci^a|l[.^ft^^,  «9padiisieMr /ittdeed?  miglie^iaJ^ebd^n 

(Ml^e  ^i^t;.   HT^iri^  «(«>;  eWfterv^'A  iaa^e  f(iuinuty  of 
thiols i^fdl^n^  $qpni  oi;i^^k^i o£  Mtaorid  taate  tt&<l smell. 

cdi^fse,>a|i,4^I^Ct|iJt:  thef.teiriie  .sis»f^      tbiit>wbkh  we 
htiKl  jnst^  }^i  #i  4 ,  frcNga^»wl\eI}ee  we  tpassid  mtt> «  small' 
Hv»ir)i  tb|fcti^(ira9»9Qf^lt  o£ikH|p^  wbokl)  afi  to  cinpk)/ 
soiAe  jtifi^s^  W4  ivquaw  sem^  ej&et«fm>,  to.  forces 
4  pas)iag<^    i^$,1)1m^  «itff«lia«^k  liffovded-^ii)  tndr^  wa- 
ter tblia  >\7a»  jttst  sufBckM  tbiboas  th«  6fint}c^|  but  \€ 
was  s^)tt)  increased  btf  many^  axnall^  Mi^djtms  w  hkh 
camfi  M  broken  rills  do watiw^rugged  &td«s^  "of  tYst 
itoimtaiiiis,  attd^^repe:  ftarnished^  %»  E^atUf^aer  by^tke 
nteltanf  of  tb«  sflbwv    Tfaie«$^  aceessdi^   atidaml^a 
liad  all  t|^  celdmess  ^  ice^"  Our  eoiir&o  ^omtrnQedto 
be  obstr^sctied  by  banks  of  gravel,  «»<  >  <lVei^  a»  trees 
MThich 'ki;a4  faHeki  across  th^  rivets.     We'were  QbHg;ed 
to  fi:>i;<fs,^up  way.  tbiough  the  one,  a^d  to^  cut  thtooifgh 
tbe  p|{r<;%  €K  »  g^r/^at  eKpensp  of l»hi4f  an^  troilbkiv     Ift 
msW)^  ]ilkc9^(he  6i]nfefit;wa$:ats&^vek*y  va^.  tiiid  me- 
a»dc^Hii^.    •  Au  |(}u r  in  Yh 6  aftc4:noot>,  <  \r0  sto]»pedf  to 
lanlfaK^  juid  eturryH  and   aU  flv^  Ave  entered  a-  stwAft 
roi^iifi  l^ke  of  aboitt  one  titird  of  a  mile  in  diameoer. 
Fi^^fti  ^t;!)^ .  1^^  kk«  ( to^^  i^\&  k,  ^  I  thifikt  vn'  tt  straight 
^inftr  <Q9^^  ^  south  sifK  mitesv  tliough  it  w  trwico  tbiat 
dic^t^nfce  >y^  tbe  wl»ding  of  the  river.     We  ag>am  en- 
Iteretd  tjbe  riv^^,  ^^btcli  so!Oii  i^an  wttlk  great  rapidity, 
aind  tiiahM  iMpetuottsly  ovetf  a  bed  of  flat  st«ni«s^   At 
h'aU' past  siu  we  werfe  stopped  \^  two  large  ti-ees  that 
Riy  wjros**  tli0  riverj  attdf  it  w^  wiib  great  dilfici«lity 
Ihat  the  eano(j  vvtts  prtfvemed  fi-om  driving  agaiawt 
them,  fiei^we  UAldadedandformed^OurencaffiipmeiKii. 
The  Weather  Wa4  dlouldy  a»d  raw,  and  as  the  cit- 
cumstftiUie^ of  tlils  day's  V6yage  bod  composed  1119  ta 


be 


m 


)k  ihe  fcarr*- ' 
f  only  an 

rildjidi«n 
Vmkbt  all 

iiOn  tke 
lAntity  of 
Mxlsmell. 

nrbiGh  we 

x>  employ 

o  force  a 
more  wa- 
if^ I  but  it 
IS  whkh 
&i»  "of  tlnti 
Ct  by  tbe 
tidatnl^a 
ilniQ«clPto 

ai^  trees 
e'  olslt^ed 
tthto^gk 

Ibtev     I  ft 

jMidme- 
o|>ped<  to 

a-  9i»s(Hf 

atraigfel. 
urico  tfeSat 
ig>am  en-. 
vapidity, 
^«s;.  At 
rets  tbat 
diliiciiiility 


npmeiKt. 
the  cit- 
ed IS^tOi 


I^orth'Wm  ComtHenr  iff  America.         28 1 

be  frequenUf !  in  the  ivhtepf 'whicli  'Wai^  coM  Ws  ice, 
*  we.  were  fthnoifc  in  4  heouiUbed'  stu^  ^  Sdme  df  the 
ciMople  vrhe»ibad9Biiie^atK<^t%'t6  lightcfi  the  danoe,  ex- 
^peritBc^ jgireMidifikulty'  > im,  teaching  vis,  ftiom  ihe 
,  xtlgg^  ittaJte  of !  itm  oonntry^.  $!  it  >wiiiji^f  hideicid «  almost 
t4  diy%'  wljAD  ifaey;  «tqriir«d4    «W0  hUd^M  ■isboiier  latidH 
t«  Ih4n  X:>»cn4Hro  i^ni  dbwji  ttlieiiH^eri  t^*  4riQg<  kh^  s6the 
«4iccflttnt.of[;ltft  -^Mk^uiastaneett^'tAa^  r  ii^i|g;ke  fbi!-i[ii'  a 
^rjudi^nflt^t  ofjtlit  djl&enltiev  witich  liMght  ttwiitt  t)ji^  bn 
I nhe snofitifr ;}  taiditbrn^v b#^hC4bft^k;> a  {bMfi£il;detMl 
vofjpapll  «urr«ntsitfall6if^tii«<^  4and|di1gd'iK6nW    At 
>thi9  >pl»ice  iotir.guidc)  mm^Sm%i4?  e^fdfbt  v^t^pK^ijriti  ^f 
4ifl«0Ator.  ^  :i  iw$;hfid^eeniiW^y f i«t|jc|riiiftrtitdc^  jli  g^g 
4oivn>Mime^  oft  the  K9i|iMlm!t|i'il.8^<:i]ldei^pt<iesslid  i^ 
^^px^yt^lo  r^AiirtN'j  I|0iBho9V«di>m  «' moat^liiiiii,  %t  iko 
,S^jref^t  di»tan(Cj9^.iiiibt))h  M^rvjf^tjaitntfti^  ^4ein|||:^^^e 
iotiiiber  ^i^  o£  »it»vei^  itild  lnliichWt4cfD[i|>ti(bs  ititlf/^ 
4ii Thur04f^if:i\^, I lAtian^ feasrly  iiiptjir^ i]it»'  iii<tif!^g  < tfie 
men  begaivto>9uta-nMd,iin'drdehta  c^tfj^  tli^  ei^be 
and  lading  beyotid  the  rapklr;  aii4>l>3r  s^eit;tkey;trere 
•ready*    That  business  w<|S8o<m|  effect^  and  th^  ca^ 
noe.  re-ltkdenj  to  proceed  witli  the  curfjefnt  whic^h '  ran 
with  gre^t  rapi4iity,.  f  fai  e  tieir  ^^jUght^^ ^tS  it  w^ 
my  intention  t0  wok.  with  ^ciie^of  thA^-peiople^j;'  mit 
thpse  in  the  boat  wjiihu  gi^.^  same^tiidsii'  tetjiiigked 
me  tQenib^rkt  deelaring»at  .tf.-e  saitio  titn^f  t^t'if 
they  peiifhed)  I  should  penal|>^^tlvtH^^^^l^  did  f^t 
then  imagine  in  how.  shoit;  a  i^rio<^jthi^ir  ilp^i^^k^^. 
sions  would  be  justified^    We  jafU}orqiiy{tly^pv»h^^bfi; 
and  hod  proce(9ded  but  a  shQfft  wayrwhlen ^ ^^  ttahi^p 
struck,  apd  notwithstanding;  aUypf^ex<^rl|Qn§Jlhi'Vi<7. 
lence   of  the  current  was  so  gveat,  ^as  ;t6i -dHVe  ^r 
sidewfya  down  the  river j  and  break  l^er:  by  thfe  fii^ 
bar,  when  I  instantly  jumpied  into.tjte  litttWO"! ' iWdPt^^ 
men  followed  my  example ;,  but  befbrei  #cf  fetmlfl  i?et 
her  straight,,  or  stop  ber^  we  cainp;Jtocdi9i|fer-  i^^ 
so  that  we  were  abl^gied,  to.re-ermbaiit'witK  th^otmb?t 
precipitation.     Ope  of  the  men  wha  Was  not  suffici- 
ently active,  wj^  leftta  get  on  shore  in  the  be^t  thatir 
n^r  in  his  power. .  We  h$ul  hardiy  r^^^ined  our^itu-^ 
^on  wbea^ we  drove  against  fk  'rock  which  ih^tiereA 


U2      ptm^^Mm^tmf^h  the 


atse  tteiiv  of  tfre  canto  iir  iwih  a»ilnafin«rv  thmt  ii  hM 

Gtkl^  liy  th«  gH*iwirie»^80  that  thectUei^TYHUY  covid  no 

longof^  keep  hit  pta^e.    The  viofenc^  of  ikisr  stvol^e 

dtove'  us*  to   the  o{>posite  $ide  ^1  thie  river,  which  is 

but  narrow,  'WheA'thtt  boi^  m«t  \^lif  tike  saon^l&ite  as 

diesleni!.     At  thill^Yn««(ent  tho   fertrmi^  teiaed;  on 

some  bvalithe^  of  a  smtfil  tvee^  in  the  hope  oflboriM^- 

iTwg  u^  ^life  eanctev  but  suoh  was  thoir  elasticiiift  th«t, 

in  a  tnannfOY  m^  ^et^ly  <*e9cri1>cAr  1»*  was  jerked  on 

shore  in  an  h^f^^,  a4fd.w4fih  a  d«gree<of'  vYoteottt  that 

threat^ne^  ijfhT  ?4^M>AieiniYi^  v^BttS  we  h«d  na  thne  t» 

/tuffii  £K6ttk  0u¥  \B»#i^  s^l«k»»  tOi  enquire  whin  Itad  be. 

vfallefi  hiiti^^  ^^ifi  a  ftn^t  t«iomentsy"  ^wc^  oame  across  a 

t5aa<5«dt^  wMdh' ^rok«  kJV^fat  targu-holeamtaitr. hot** 

toirt'of'tedatt«<ef^Tid  4tairte*all  the  baps,^c3tcept.oi« 

behfifW  the*  iic^kfl^  Jeali^    If  this  acci?J«nt,  how«vcr, 

ha^wdt  hate|»etKftfi^^t*t^  v«s««l  must  haVe  been  hre- 

Xt^v^Wftiytxit^y'^Thk  wreck  *teeoihiist  ^a*  Pnr  the 

4^al»r,  ^«^aij^iafOW:,#^^^^     Ike  seeersinany ;  who 

had  beeW  cOi^til^lS^^  to^  atibluloif  his  place,  mi^  had  not 

tecOi^red  fr^  Mfe  friglitf  ^aSfed  out  to^  his  compa^ 

mdns^  td*itivi'i!Tft*i*ifSd*vt^.  Mf  peremptory  e^Bimanda 

smbei^acd^  tfii^fffetets  <6t*  Hi*  fear^   and  they  >all  held 

Ik/t  tc^  Hfti^Mkf  te^^Mch  fortftitate  fes^krtion  we 

'  fi^WaS  miii'^WfrfP'  ifliomd  ofh**wi^e'  hate  been 

daiiicd  agkittst^t^  r6cks  1^  the  for60  of  the  watery 

Qt'^^tf^m^M^tSmi    M  Aiii  tonditioii  we 

.#ii%'fiS(?^d^sthf^lftAi8i^  yai'dS,  alid  etwy  yard 

lomm  ^mWi^^mm^^Mi ;  b^*  at  K-Ufth,  we  moat 

Ifc^Mii^^  gM*fe«^tt  Jmaiiei*^  ^met  aftd  a  small  eddyv 

:«^^iii^W^f^  ^tt^^  «(y  KK*e  a  sti^,  from  the 

ySM  ^tf/e  ^nefs^'i^stttaroh  ifhe  steAcSj  raster  thaa 

lr?A  ^hy  IsMto^^  Mtrtiligth*     Fo^ 

th6^dilFm^^^a««*««^i  tbi^  ^re  f  Wished  to 

ihc  mmosti  as  Kfe  ^i^  dfekth  dfepettdcd  oft  the^.    This 

alariHinf  sct^^  w^  aW  Iti  terrors  aihd  dai^rsjoceu- 

tnc^obiy  ti'i^^  iiS!KQm^  iM  id  the  preterit  suapeti- 

£<&  oFtr^fe  ^itt^  to  tf^  pio^Vt  ettshorfe  to  eott»e  to 

our  as^m^e^i  ift«  t*»*^  iii^memately  obteyedthe  taxs^^ 

ffA:':vmm^f^iW^f^^i^^^tts  Vras  tlw  «*bt  with  us  $ 

be  feid  l^ipltitrti^rt ti'Ofld «ie  exH-aordftBtty  jferifc 


Ifyri/hWwf  CdntkttiU  rf  Anmka.       ag5 


^kib  witkh  he  yHm-  ihtwvH  mii  of  tib«  boM^  and  Jutt  ds 
tre  \rere  bcgflMMiig  to- tiike  our  effBctt-otit  el  the  wa- 
ter, ht  ap^ftfed  to  give  hid  assistance.  Tho  ItuUans* 
whei^  tbry  saw  olfT'  dvplerabler  utvatton,  instead  of 
making' t)iel«a»l(eirfitt  lo  help^  ua,  sat  tto^i^n  and , gave 
vent  tot^ibtlr  t4»iirs«r  I  n^iis  on  Use  outside  #fth^cttno«, 
irh«tfe  lire vifknicdfeill'eYtcytiiui^- was  got  fn^  fliltore)  in 
»  stale  «£.gfeitt  i^aib  imm:(h0  !«^t>e4Ao  eol4  of  the 
watet>v4e^^l>ai^/at.lef^t)i^  it^was  wHh  ditteultj^  |^j9ftuld 
standi  ironii  Ibei  beiictmlletl  idate  0|ijByl|i»4j»f-  nVyt' 

The;  losm<  1ir«l  5e<ona)d»rab}»>>  mA  is^portant)  $»r  H 
consifeteA  df limti^hfib:;  stf)fii;,0^bl^l|s«ftnd^onte«f  quit 
furnkmre  ?  but  Ihes^^QoBfHldraiCi^ni  weire  iforgo^t^n  ih 
the  inipres8io»j^:tifjQ^|iib^a«i»l9Ufrj^8^p«,  0\fv  fir^t 
inqiiirfrvma  a,AiMr(!th«r  ftt^s^tV^-ijp^niviyirhPiT^in  ^hiff^r^ 
xnomeiit  ^fdani^Vy^^}!^  leftjia  get  on  »hoi^  amd  in 
it  short  tifAe)\«bb  j»^f>fafaiic9  rf|i»ov)^4  mat.  wn^tj. 
We  hail»  h^idi^eiTi  «M*t0if|iQd  l»0'  T)erso»aI  in|^ry  of 
eonaeqi^nfle)  and  i0y  .i^rt^fies^  SQ«{i|e4  to  be.iti  t^« 
greater  proporlion*;         r    :    »       ,     >  ;  < 

All  the  dif^reikt  >arti€les  wpte  tiovr  spread  out  to 
drjrw  Tli«  powder  h|kd  fortunate^  receivfd  nodi^tna^; 
and  aU  my  Instfumept^  hfid  escaped.  Indeedi  ,wheA 
my  peoplef  began,  to  roQOVdr  from  their  alaxni;  and  to 
enjoy,  a,  sense  o^  «|i|ety,  jonne  of  th^pn,  if  <S9t  aU,.  S*ere 
by  no  meams  9^py  fiJr  pur  JiU^  m^fairt|LiB^^^^fp<ciiifi  ^fh* 
hope  thcit  i^iinust  f  ut  a  petiod,  to  our  wyiie^'^r^cih- 

sunk- in  the  Tiv0t)|  ;jlt  didnot^  ittde«^  seem  poss^i^v 
to  them  that  we  eovild  prdeeod  ^ind^*,  tjtie^<9^^irp™-i 
stances*  I  listened)  howcTef)  to  the  ppseryatio^s  that 
\rere  made  o&  the  occasion  withoi^it  iH^plyii^if  U>  tlvemy. 
till  their  panic  was  dispelled,  and  they  bad  goi  tlic^* 
selves  Wann  and  cQmfortaht«^  Vfiih  an  hteftrl^,  ^^e^li 
and  mm  ^ough  to  raise  the^r  spiritsiV; .  "^'  laarmn 

X  then  addressed  thciviT  by  reeonii)^en(&^||  Inem  a^ 
tobti  thcmhful  i&r  th^ii*  latit  very  narrow  escape*^  ^i.^<!>*'' 
stated,  that  the  navigatloa  was  not  impracticable  ih  it- 
Self,  but  from  our  ignorance  of  its  coniM^e  a  and  thkt  <duv* 
late.  expeneii£«  wouid  enable  us  to  pursue  ^ur:  voyage 
nrhh  greater  secu4ty«    I  broiught  to  their  reoc^l^ctioo^ 


t  1 


u 

If 


284         Journal  of  a  Voyage  thrdtigh  the 

that  I  did  not  deceive  them)  and  that  they  were  made 
acquainted  with  the  diflUculties  and  dangers  they  must 
expect  to  encounter,  before  they^  engaged  to  ac(;om- 
pany  me*  I  also  urged  the  honot  of  conquering  dis- 
asters, and  the  ^agrace  that  wovUd  ^Ut^Q^  them,  on 
their  return  home,  without  haying  p^pt^dned  th^  object 
of  the  expedition.  Nprdid  I  fail  to  me^tipn  l;hc  jqou- 
rage  and  resphitibn  whicji  wis  the  p^<;uliar  l^p^st  of 
the  North  Mjpii  »  and  that  I  d^pp4ed  ,o|ij^  them  ^  ^Jiat 
ttitmient,  for  the  niaint^n^nc,e ,  <i^  Itheirtchar^c^J^H.wI 
quieted  their  apprehensibp  as |'o  tjpte los^  oi,  the  bwl- 
lets,  by  bringing  to  their  reqpile^lion  thai,  w^i&^V:h»d 
Shot  from  which  they  ini^^t  be  mianufacmrfi4r  ,  I  ,ftt 
the  same  time  acknoi^lfdged  ^he  diSi^ultyi  oj^.  respir- 
ing the  wreck  of  the  canpe,  b^t  conjE^^f^  ^^^  °W>  lf¥^^^ 
aftid  exertion  to  piit  it Jp inch  a-  state  a^i  wowjia  cf^rry 
tis  on  to  where  w6  might  procure  l^ark,  and  build, a 
new  one.  In  short,  my  harangue  pi^odvced  the  desi- 
red effect,  and  a  very  general  absent  appeared  to  go 
wherever  I  should  lead  the  way.  , 

Various  opinions  were  offered  in  the  pe^sent  pos- 
ture of  affairs,  and  it  was  rather  a  general  ><fish  that 
the  wreck  should  be  abandoned,  and  all  the  lad^^g  par- 
ried to  the  river,  which  our  guide  informed  us  was  at 
no  great  distance,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  woo^at  where 
he  believed  there  was  plenty  of  bark.  This  prQJwt 
seemed  not  to  promise  that  certainty  to  ''rjiichi  look- 
ed in  my  present  operations;  besiiies,  I  - h%d  my 
doubts  respecting  the  views  of  my  ^uide  and  conse- 
quently coiild  not  confide  in  the  representation  he 
made  to  me.  I  therefore  dispatched  two  of  the  xnen 
at  nine  in  the  morning,  with  one  of  the  young  Indi- 
ans, for' I  did  hot  venture  to  trust  the.  guide  out  of 
my  sight,  in  search  of  bark,  and  to  endeavor,  if  it 
were  possible  in  the  course  of  the  day,  to  pc^ietrate  to 
the  great  river,  into  which  that  before  us  discharges 
itself  in  the  direction  which. the  guide  had  communi- 
cated. X  now  joined  my  people,  iacwdsr  to  repair, 
as  well  as  circumstances  would  admit,  our,  wreck  of  a 
Cianoe,  And  I' began  to  set  them.  the.  example* 
.At  nooa  I  hadniv  altitude!  yihich  gave  54*  2  3.  north 


ire  made 
\^y  must 
o  acQom- 
;ring  dis- 

thcm.  on 
th^objj^ct 

'^l^pft^  of 

p^.  restjPT- 
i  our  Mall 
)i|ld  c^rry 
Q^:l^uU4a 
\  the  4ew- 
ired  to  go 


s.-^<>- 


psent  po8- 
Mfish  that 

adlng  car- 
US  was  at 

ods.w^i'c 
is  project 

ch  ripok- 
had  mjr 
ind  conse- 
tatioii  he 
the  men 
rting  Indi- 
ide  out  of 
vor,  if  it 
pettalie  to 
lischarges 
communi- 
to  repair, 
reck  of  a 

j»  <   '  ■ 
23^  north 


Jfyfih-West  Centinenf  ttf  Ametistu        afaf^ 

latitucte.  At  fourih  the  iftertiotfti  I  t<Mr)k  tiimt,  wltH 
the  hope  that  in.  the  night  I  might  obtnln  aft  obterva-' 
fion  of  Jupiter  and  his  seittllites,  but  I  had  not  a  suf- 
ficient horizon,  ft  owi  the  propintjtiity  of  th«  mot^rt- 
tains.  The  result  of  my  ctikuktion  for  lime  wtia  K 
38.  3a.  s1o\ir  apparent  time* 

It  now  grew  late,  and  the  ptfdpk  who  had  beett 
sent  on  the  excursion  already  meniionetl,  Vere  not  yet 
returned  ;  about  ten  o'clock,  however,  1  heard  a  nWrt 
halloo,  and  1  very  gladly  returned  the  signal.  In  a' 
abort  lime  our  yoi»ng  Indian  anived  with  a  small  tttVi 
oi  indifferent  bairh :  he  was  oppressed  with  fatigufe' 
ts\6  hunger,  and  his  clothed  torn  to  rags :  he  hac^ 
parted  with  the  othfep  two  me^  at  sun-set,  who  held 
walked  the  whole  day,  in  a  dreadful  counti^,  without 
procuring  any  good  bark,  or  being  able  to  get  to  thef 
la^rge  riVer*  Hts  account  of  thie  riyer',  on  whose  banki' 
w«  were,  couW  not  be  more  ttfifaVbrable;  or  dtscouBag-* 
infp ;  it  had  appeared  to  him  to  b^  Iktl^  more  thaiV  tt 
succession  of  iallft  and  rapids,  With  occai^iohal  inler-^ 
vuptions  of  fallen  trees* 

Our  guide  became  so  dissatisfied  and  troubled  ifK 
mind,  that  we  could  not  obtain  from  him  any  regt^lar 
account  of  the  cbuntry  befoi^o  tits.  All  we  could  col-' 
lect  from  Kim  w»i^  that  ttiift  river  into  whi^tthi^ 
empties  itietf  i»  but  a  branch  of  a  large  riv«9r/ath0 
great  foric  jbeing  at  Ao  great  dist^hce  lN>m  tile  coi^^ 
ence  of  this;  and  tliat  hef  krtew  of  n,o|aJ<e,  or  largji 
body  of  still  waler,  in  the  mihii^  ol  >  tlfese  rirei^Sj, 
To  thr»  account  ©f  thfc  country,  lie  addipd'  s<i|rt^ 
straiige^  fenciful,  b*rt  terrifying  desctiptlonsf,  o;f  the 
natives,  si>milar  to  thos«  whieliir^re  H^entionec^  iri  j^f^ 
Ibrmer  voyage.  .^ 

We  had  an  esoapri  tlhii  day,  WMch  t  ttttip^  Jfdd  %i 
the  many  irii^fineed  of  good  rortiihe  whicb  I  expeii- 
ehced  m  this  perilous  expedition.  TH^  poirdS^r  ha4 
been  spread  owt,  X»  the  am^rant  erf  eighty  potmd^ 
weight,  ta  receive  the  air;  al»^,  in  this,  situation,  one 
of^  the  men  cavekssly  and*  composedly  walked  across 
it  wifth  a  liglited  pi^  ill  Ms  mouth,  but  without  an^ 
ill  consequences  resulting  from  such  an  act  of  cfinji^ 


886  youmat  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

nal  negligence.    I  need  not  add  that  one  spark  might 
have  put  a  period  to  all  my  anxiety  and  ambition* 

I  observed  several  trees  and  plants  on  the  banks  of 
this  riverf  which  I  had  not  seen  to  the  north  of  thcr 
latitude  63,  such  as  the  cedar,  maple,  hemlock,  Ice. 
At  this  time  the  water  rose  fast,  and  passed*  on  with 
the  rapidity  of  an  arrow  shot  from  a  bow. 

Friday  14.  The  weather  was  fine,  clear,  and  warm, 
and  at  an  early  hour  of  the  morning  we  resumed  our 
repair  of  the  canoe.  At  half  past  seven  our  two  men 
returned  hungry  and  cold,  not  having  tasted  food,  or 
enjoyed  the  least  repose  for  twenty-four  hours,  with 
their  clothes  torn  into  tattersy  and  their  skin  lacerated 
in  passing  through  the  woods.  Their  account  was 
I  the  same  as  that  brought  by  the  Indian,  with  this  ex- 
ception, that  they  had  reason  to  think  they  saw  the 
river,  or  branch  which  our  guide  had  mentioned ;  but 
they  were  of  opinion  that  from  the  frequent  obstruc- 
tions in  this  river,  we  should  have  to  carry  the  whole 
way  to  it,  through  a  dreadful  country,  where  much 
time  and  labor  would  be  required  to  open  a  passag*^ 
through  it* 

Discouraging  as  these  accounts  were,  they  did  not, 
however,  interrupt  for  a  moment  the  task  in  which  wc 
were  engaged,  of  repairing  the  canoe  *,  and  this  work 
r«ne  contrived  to  complete  by  the  conclusion  of  the 
day»  The  bark  which  was  brought  by  the  Indian, 
with  some  pieces  of  oil-cloth,  and  plenty  of  gum,  en- 
abled us  to  put  our  shattered  vessel  in  a  condition  to 
answer  our  present  purposes.  The  guide  who  has 
been  mentioned  as  manifesting  continual  signs  of  dis- 
satisfaction, now  assumed  an  air  of  contentment, 
which  I  aittributed  to  a  smoke  that  was  visible  in 
the  direction  of  the  river;  as  he  naturally  expected, 
if  we  should  fall  in  with  any  natives,  which  was  now 
very  probable,  from  such  a  circumstance,  that  he  should 
be  released  from  a  service  which  he  had  found  so 
irksome  and  full  of  danger.  I  had  an  observation  at 
iu>on)  which  made  our  latitude  54.  23.  43.  north.  I 
.  also  took  time,  and  found  it  to  slow  apparent  time  1* 


Hforth'West  Continent  of  Amcrlat,        287 

•  Saturday  15.  The  weather  continued  the  same  as 
the  preceding  day,  and  according  to  the  directions 
which  I  had  previously  giveO)  my  people  began,  at  a 
Ttry  early  hour,  to  open  a  raad,  through  which  we 
might  carry  a  part  of  our  lading  ;  as  I  was  fearful  of 
risliing  the  whole  of  it  in  the  canoe,  in  its  present 
weak  state,  and  in  a  part  of  the  river  which  is  full  of 
sHoaU  and  rapids.  Four  men  were  employed  to  con- 
duct; her^  lightened  as  she  was  of  twelve  packages. 
They  prassed  several  dangerous  places,  and  met  with 
various  obstructions,  the  current  of  the  river  be^ 
ing  frequently  ttopped  by  rafu  of  drift-wood,  and  fal>> 
len  treesy  so  that  after  fourteen  hours  hard  \9h0r  wt 
had  not  made  more  than  three  miles.  Our  course 
was  sputh-tast  by  east  as  we  had  not  met  with  any  ac- 
cident,, the  nven,  appeared  to  feel  a  renewed  courage 
to  continue  th«ir  voyage.  In  the  morning,  however, 
one  of  the  crew,  whose  name  was  Beauchamp,  pe- 
remptorily refused  to  embark  in  the  canoe.  This  be- 
ing tlie  first  example  of  absolute  disobedience  which 
had  yet  appeared  during  the  course  of  our  expedition, 
I  t:Souid  not  have  passed  it  over  without  taking  some 
very  severe  means  to  prevent  a  repetition  of  it ;  but 
as  he  had  the  general  character  of  a  simple  fellow, 
among  bis  companions,  and  had  been  frightened  out 
of  what  little  sense  he  possessed,  by  our  late  dangers, 
I  rather  preferred  to  consider  him  as  unworthy  of  ac- 
companying us,  and  to  represent  him  as  an  object  of 
ridicule  and  contempt  for  his  pusillanimous  behavibr ; 
though,  in  fact,  he  was  a  very  useful,  active,  and  la- 
borious man. 

At  the  close  of  the  day  we  assembled  round  a  blaz- 
ing fire  ;  and  the  whole  party  being  enlivened  with 
the  usual  beverage  which  I  ^supplied  on  these  occa- 
sion^, forgot  their  fatigues  and  apprehensions  ;  nor 
did  they  fail  to  anticipate  the  pleasure  they  should  en- 
joy in  getting  clear  of  their  present  difficulties,  and 
gliding  onwards,  with  a  strong  and  steady  stream, 
which  our  guide  had  described  as  the  characteristic 
of  the  large  river  we  soon  expected  to  wnter. 

Sunday  16.    The  fine  weather  continued,  and  we 


ymtrtml  f/'a  Voyage  thrcv^h  iki 


^ 


b«(l^  our  vork)  as  we  had  done  ihf  prece^inf^  day  ; 
^me  were, occupied  in  opening  a roadt  ptbera  wert 
carrying)  .and  the  rest  employed  in  condiKting  M>e  fta- 
nqe.  I  was  of  the  &rst  party)  and  aoo*  discovere<l 
^at  we  had  encainped  ab^ut  half  a  mile  above  teve- 
'|ud  /alU)  O'Ver  which  we  coukl  not  attempt  to  run  the 
fS^HQOr  UgHtciH^d  even  as  she  was*  This  circumstance 
j;eadweid '  it  necessary  that  the  road  should  be  m«4c 
j»Q^i«ptly  wide  to  admit  the  Qa#oe  to  ppss  ;  a  tedip 
puaand  l;oij»0cae  work*  In  running  her  down  a  rapid 
abfve  th^  faU««  an  h^W  was  broken  in  her  bottomi 
ivhioh  o«casiuned  a  considerable  delay>  as  we  wert 
d^sti^tf  ol^thp  mMf-rials  necessary  for  her  effectual 
reparation.  On  my  being  informed  of  this  mislbr- 
(uKefJ^FetMrBfdf  and  ordei:<ed  Mr.  Maokay»  with  two 
lA^i^iMb  to  quit  their  occupation  in  making  the  roadi 
^n4  eoida^vor  to  .penetratte  to.  the  greab  river,  accord* 
ing  to  M\^  direction  which  the  guide  had  conununi- 
caticdy  n^ithout  paying  any  attention  to  the  course  of 
^e  river  before  us. 

.«i«When  the  people  had  repaired  the  canoe  in  the  best 
manner  they  were  ablei  we  conducted  her  to  the  head 
of  jthe  tails  j  she  was  then  unloaded  and  taken  out  of 
tI)|E(>^at^r)  >vhen  >Me  carried  lii^r  forsa  considerable  dis- 
|a,^c;^^t)M'ough,a  low,  swampy  country*  I  appointed 
four  xpii^t^  tQ,  thi^.  laborious  office,  which  they  exeout'* 
ea,A^  t^  peri^^f,  their  Jives*  for  the  canoe  was  now 
^^i^pme(.&Q  h^vy^from  the  additional  quantity  of  bark 
ai^di  gu;^  nepfts^ary  to  patch  her  ;vp»  that  two  men 
could  not  carry  her  more  than  an  hundred  yardS} 
w^tlQUt  being  relieved  ;  and  as  their  way  lay  through 
^e|^  i^u^,  l/«!hich  wa^  rendered  more  difficult  by  the 
y^l^'^janil^proftrate  trunks  of  trees,  they  wqre  every 
iippi^ei^t^  fiix^ ^^i^er  of  falling;  and  beneath  suqh  a 
we^g^t^  QI>e  f^iae  step  might  have  been  attended  with 
^^  j^|m!||^qil^l](Cf^»  The  other  two  men  and  mysjelf 
^^^f^i.^^J^i^%  a^s  we  could)  with  the  lading.  Thus 
$a  >^e|blluil  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,, to 
die.  tei^mination  pf  the  ix>ad  that  had  been  made 
mbrhipg.  Here  Mr.  Mackay  and  the  Indian  j 
US)  after  "having  b^n  at  the  riYer,  which  t)ie^  xt^^t^ 


tcr»  wert 
ig  U>e  9A' 
i»coverc<l 
ove  %evf 
o  run  th« 
umstance 
b^  tniulc 

m  a  rapid 
r  bottomi 

we  wcrt 
>  effectual 
is  mislbro 
;  with  two 

the  roadi 
r,  accord* 
commnni* 

:C0i]r8e  of 

in  the  best 
o  the  head 
ken  out  of 
erable  dis- 
appointed 
;y  exeout- 
e  was  now 
ity  of  bark 
t  two  men 
i^ed  yardt) 
ly  through 
wit  by  the 
wrere  eveiTi' 
th  such  a 
ended  wiHh 
md  mysjelf 
ng.     Thus 
f».to 
nade 
ian 
hey  rejrtrb*' 


Ntrth'Jfett  CcrUineni  ofAmeriocu         Sat 

tented  as  rather  lafK*.  They  had  also  observed*  that 
Ihe  lower  part  of  the  river  before  us  was  so  fuil  of 
fallen  wood,  that  the  attempt  to  clear  a  passage 
throtigh  it  would  be  an  unavailing  hbour.  The  conn* 
try  through  which  they  had  passed  was  morass,  and 
almost  impenetrable  wood.  In  passing  over  one  of 
the  embarrdfl,  our  dog,  which  was  following  them,  fell 
in,  and  Itittts  Mrith  greact  difficulty  that  he  was  saved, 
as  the  current  had  carried  hmi  under  the  Anil* 
They  broug^ht  with  them  I'wo  geese,  which  had  been 
fthot  in  the  course  of  thdr  erpedition.  To  add  to 
our  perplexities  atrd 'dmbarrcssments,  we  were  pierse- 
cuted  by  ihusquitoer.  and  Mind*flie«,  tiiroi%h  the 
whole  of  the  day. 

The  extent  of  our  jovrmef  Mra«  not  more  thiui  two 
miles  south-east;  and  sio  much  fatigue  and  pidit  hlid 
been  suffered  iti  the  course  of  it,  that  my  peoplt^  as 
might  be  expected,  looked  forward  to  ai  cOhtinVittrioi^ 
of  it  with  discouragement  and  dismay*  "  1  wati,  iti- 
deed,  informed  that  murmurs  prevailed  among  them, 
of  which,  however,  I  took  no  notice.  When  we 
were  assembled  together  for  the  ni^ht,  I  ga:Ve  each  Kit 
them  a  dram,  and  in  a  short  .time  th^  retlided  tti  thi; 
repose  which  they  so  much  required".  We  cd^M  dis- 
cover the  termination  of  the  mmttitaii^s  at  ti  donl{^4> 
rable  distance  on  either  side  of  Us,  whibhy  aJbi^|n*dMg 
to  my  conjecture,  marked  the  ^ours^  tt»f  the  j^ea| 
river.  Oh  the  niountaltis  to  the  ea[st  ther^  #ere  ii^V^- 
ral  iires,  as  their. smokes  Were  Very  Visible  tb  ds.'  ^]^ 
cessive  heat  prevailed  throughout  the  day.        '        '  ~"' 

Monday  \7.  Having  sat  up  till  tt^elVe  la^t  'tilifilf/ 
which  had  be^n  my  constant  pra;ictice?  idnce  We  hk^^ 
taken  our  present  guides  1  awoke  lif i*.  'Siuekij^^W 
watch  him  in  turn.  I  then  laid  down  to  re«^^  li^^! W 
three  I  was  awakened  to  be  informed  that  h(^  hi(d^^« 
serted.  Mr.  Mackay,  with  whom  I  wns  di^hiaflB^^ 
on  this  occasion,  and  the  6ahcre,  accompa^leaif '^^^ 
went  in  search  of  him,  but  he  had  mkd<i^  £!i^ 
^e :  a  design  which  he  had  for  s<>m«^  titne'ine^il*' 
t|||d)  though  I  had  done  every  ihitig  in  my  po^^f  td^ 
induce  him  to  remain  with  ihe. 

3b 


390  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


^  This  miafortune  did  not  produce  any  r^IaSation  in 
6,\ir  exertions.'  At  an  early  hour  of  the  morning  w« 
ip^ere  all  employed  in  cutting  a  passage  of  ihree  cjuar- 
fei^  of  a  mile,  through  which  w^  cjuTied^  our  canoe 
^U;  cargo,  when  we  put  her  into.thr  w^r  with  her 
Ikd!ng,  but  in  a  vei^  shoit  ti me  wer^  stti^ed  by  the 
dVii|-'wood,  and  were  obliged  to  land  and^' carry.  In 
rajbirt/We  i^i^ued  our  alternate  journies,  by  'tand^and 
^^^J^  ^^^^  f'^^*'*^^'^  ^re  could  proceed  ifto  fur<iliier$^ 
l^tH^th^'  va^ibus  small,  unnai^igable  channels  kitp. 
wmch  the  river  branched  in  every  direetionV;  ajrid  no 
o^eii^'ni^e  of  getting  forward  now  renrained  for  \]i> 
bttt  b^  tutting  a  road  across  a  tieck  of  landw  I  ^accwrd- 
ingly  disp|itched  two  men  to  ascertain  thfe  exact  die- 
^6,e,  Ui^d  wt  er  ployed  the  interval  of  thettr  ab^hce 
iii^^  tihlbMdthg  and  getting  the  canoe  out  of  thb  w«lep4 
B^'^at  ^i,5lrt;  in  the  evening  when  We  arrived  at  tbe^ 
i^k  of 'the  great  rivef.  This  jbumiey  was  three  quaii- 
^' oT  d  mile  cstst  north-east,  through  a  continued 
sWaijbp,  where,  in  many  places,  we  waded  up  to  the 
xHiddte*  qf  our  thighs.  Our  cimrse  in  a  small  river 
was  about  sovith-east  by  east  th^e  miles.  At  length 
vt^  enjoyed,'  after  all  ouL^oil  and  anxiety,  the  inexpres^ 
sible  ^atisffeiction  of  finmng  ourselves  on  the  bank  of  a 
n^lgsble  river,  oh  the  west  side  of  the  first  great  ra^^ 
offfiilhkitis. 

■^  op  'baa 
'3 


CHAPTER  VII. 


nljl;Iit,  Proceed  on  the  great  river.  Circumstances  of  it.  Account  Of 
ro^invesr  Co|ne  to  rapids,  observe  several  smokes.  See  a  flight  of  white 
ducks.  Pats  over  a  carrying-place  widi  the  canoe,  &c.  The  difficulties  of 
f  :thai{>aitaec. ,,  Abundance  of  wild  onk>ns.    Re-embark  on  the  river.    See  some 


'  q( die nst^es.  .They  desert  tlieir camp,  and  riyinio  the  woods.    Courses con- 

'^liiioed'TciU  a  redde^r,  iicc.    CircutnstaHce^  of  the  river.    Arrive  at  an  In- 

;  r  dkn  babU»0<^ti.    Deacription  of  it    Account  of  a  curious  ma^iiine  to  catch 

'   tm.    Land  to  prcJcure  baik  for  the  puq)ose  of  construed n;;  a  new  canoe. 

-  •■XtmxM^t  qt»a«ttfi(  of  Penmiican  for  provision  on  our  return.    Succession  of 

cmuKs.    Meet  with  soipe  of  the  natives.    Our  intercourse  yciih  them.   Their 

' '  'i^-aiatlon  iespectiiig  the  river,  and  the  coustry.      Description  of  those 

rf«Jfl>  18. }  It  rained  thioughout  the  night,  andftiH  se- 
ven. ,:n  the  morning  ;  nor  was  I  sorry  that. the  wea- 
tWgave  me  an   excuse  for  indulging,  m^^^people 


NoriMVest  Continent  of.  AmertciL        291 


with  that  additjonal  rest,  which  their  fatigm  ^  during 
the  last  tliree  days,  rendered  so  cdmfortable  to  Uii<^x|u  , 
Beljore  eight,  however,  we  Were  on  the;  ns^atery,  9^4^ 
driven  on  by   a  strong   current,  wh^h  we  st^re^* 
east-south-east  half  a  mile,  south-west  by  souChh^f^ff;, 
mile,  so!Uth^outh-east  half  a  mile,  south-west,  Iv^Il^jB. 
mtle^>w^nt,rouhd  to  nprth^\(^est  half  a,mi)Le,,.i^a9l    ^ 
soutlhtS(9uthreast  three  quarters  oCa  mile«  $|pum-s( 
wdst  haifc  ft ;  riiile,  sputh  by  east,  a  quact^  ot  ^,^ 
and    south-west  by   south  three  quarte^ri, of., ^4  |^||^y' 
Here  tire  water  had  fallen  considerably,  so  tiifjt  se:vg7, 
raT  mud  and  sand-banks  w^re  vis^fj.  , /jjjg^^  -^m  ^^^^ 
so  an  hill  a-head,  west-souths-west^, ,  ;>i*^'»i}rti|>  kmn 
The  weather  was  so  ha*y  that  w^.co|4^)iii?t-§^t; 
acrosi  the  river,  which  i.»  h^re  abp^i  twq  .h^^f-eg; 
yaifd9  Wide*     Wfi  apw  proceeded  sputh  'x^.^'^e^^'.^n^- 
third  of  a  miley  when  we  saw  a  consldjer^^  |[^^; 
tity  of  beaver  work  along  the  batiks,  ^rm^r^- 
w^st  half  a  mile,  south-west  by  west  one  xnile  9^4  a^^^ 
half,  soutfa-south>West  one  third  of  a  mile,  wel^^  |)jf 
south  one  third  of  a  mile')  south  by  ea|^  haji^'s^  miicf 
^fountains   rose  on  the  left,  immediately;  abpye^  llj^ 
river,  whose  summits  were  covered  with  siiow ;  soufj^. 
west  half  a  mih)  South  a^uarjtff  of  a  mll^|,^^i^^ 
east  one  third  of  a  mile,  soiith-sodth-west  ]^|ra  i^lliij^; 
Here  are  several  islands,  we  then  veered  to  west* by ^ 
south  a  thirdN^a  tilile,  sPOth-<outit*tMt"  mmaih  of  a 
mile»     On  the  right,  the  land  is  high,  rocky,  and  co-' 
vered  with  wood,  west-south-west' one  mile,  a  smalf 
river  running  in  from  the  south-ea8t>  south^we^^jt  .li^^f 
a  mile,  south  threie  quarters  of  a  ihilt*  soti^li^i^st) ' 
half  a  mile,  south  by  west  half  a  mik.' Hem:* -w 
point  protrudes  from  the  leftj  and  narrowi*  ih^'lfli^er 
to  an  hundred  yards  ;  south-east  hilf  a  mja^^' ^a^tl^ty 
south  one  eighth  of  a  mile.     The   current;  now' was 
very  strong,  but  perfectly  safe,  south-esMt  by  sout&lah 
eighth  of  a  mile,  west  by  north  one  third  of  a  niile, 
south  by   west  a  twelfth  of  a  mile,    south-w^st  onp 
fourth  of  a  mile.    Here  the  high  land  terminates  oh 
one  side  pf  the  liver,  while  rocks  rise  to  a  cohsiidera- ' 
iile  jlieight  immediately  above  the  other,  and   the; 


^    Mmii^T^^'^''^^^^^ 


d^jUfiri^)  ,^?^*P*  ^^  **>  huiiclredi  ^n^  fifty  jrard?,  w.99^ 
dV  ^^jAtii  oijf '  mUej^  T*?«  riy«r  pow  narrows  ,4gaia 
b«ii^^^  rt)Ck$^^Q^^^  rnoderatc  tej^ljt;  ^ortWnbrtii-. 
<H^f  ,4fi  eij^iitti  of ^  fi  ipile,   vetered   ^o  ,  south  east  ai^i 

tibii,  wcsV^ne  mile.    A  &maU river flQ;v?f4,w%9^^ 

tefit  s%||ARid,  a];i4  wf  pi-o.ce,^di^d  ,^uy^-j^i9>it^jiw$*|^. 
tttree  (jtJarlers  ofii  inile,  apMtji-jw^t.tbr^  ^^rii^r^o^ 
a  ^^^?>  i<Mith  by  ea^t  uiree^  g^a|:tetB  ^f  a^  ^^>i  ^P^jt 
e4sft  by  east  one  mile,  wbj^n  \tT|Bf;rfdgf'aduaUy  to  v^fist,-, 
nortb-westhalf  amil^j^the  rivw  Heing;  full  oif)slandf#, , 
W^  j^|M>cce(ieidd^e  north,  witfj  iiV^l|^ jpurrent,  the  f ivef. 
p^jO^jting;  1^  beautiful  ^heet.  ojf  vv^ter  {pr  a  flvlp  a^ »5H ! 
^^^<>v^fi^est,hy  west  cmij jniW;w^?^pr^^ 
b^uCaW^  round  to  sputh<«|^f ^  o^i^  liiilp^.^if e;^t(| 

by  nKh  oiie  mile,  south-east  one  ja[]iij(e,  i^est  byjiof'ti^,; 
tjiree  (^u^rtera  of  a  inile,.  south  one  eiKlffh  of  a  ffu^i 
wiiW  \f e  came  to  an  Indian  cabin  of  late  er^tion* 
l:i(yir)|  W^s  tbei^r^at  fork  whioh  out  guide  bad  infocmi^uf^, 
an^  iytji^eared  lobe  the  iargeBt  branch  from  the  ^tith-.  ^ 
cMj  ^  It  t^  about  half  a  mite  in  breadth,  and  aBaHmeat 
tl&Tof^  of  ala)s.e.  The  current  wafa   ery  slaci^,  and  we 
got  %t(x  the  middle  of  the  channel,  whep  we  stieered^ 
wfest,  anci  M>un4®4  i*^  ^i^^®?"'  fee^  water.     A  ridge  of 
hi|fh  land  bow  sitretched  on,  as  it  were,  across  our  pre- , 
seiit  (|lrection :  this  courae  was  three  miles*    We  then 
pi^Ocieeded  west-^south-west  two  miles^  suid  sounded  in 
tWfnty-foiir ,  feet  water.     Here  the  river  narrowed  and 
the  jpurrent  increased.    We  then  continued  our  course 
«t0b-iiortb-weH  ^^ree  i^u^rtera  of  milo,  s^  jjiwfdl  ^iy^v 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        293 


irds*  wt<rt| 

Uy  to  \jr,«;^- ., 

e  er^tion* : 

I  the  ftovitfe-*)^ 

id  a6&umea< 

LC^,  and  we 

we  steere^J 

A  ridge  of 

IBS  our  pre-. 

We  then 

sounded  in 

rrowed  and 

our  course 


)  I 


falling  in  form  the  north-cadt.     It  now  veei'ed  to  south 
by  wes*  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  west-south-west  fpur 
miles  and  an  half,  west  by  north  one  mile  andaqufir-, 
ter,  nbrth-w6st  by  westone  mile,  west  a  mile  arid  a  ^Wf^rj*^ 
ter :    the  land  was  high  oil  both  sides,  and  the  fiyp^ 
narrowed  to  an  hundred  and  fifiv,  ori;>vo  hund  re^  y ardf( ; 
ndrth-'west  thr^-e  quarters  of  a  n>ile/  south-west  jjy^' 
«otlth  t#o  itiiWs  and  iri  Half :  l^fe  its  Weadtli  agftii^ 
mqrcMed}  south  by  West  o^e  mm^,  weft-soutl^-wes^ 
halra'mrle,  sduth-West  by  ^oii^h  tnreeTriile^,  -  souj^- 
south-ed^t  otie  mile,  with  a  sttiklt  i^iver  ruhmng  in  ft^n| . 
the  Mt;  south  Wij;h  a  strong  ctrri^eht  ope  pail?,  'tl^eJl^ 
6ast  tht^^  ^tjartei^bf  amilie,  sbuth-wipst  one  mi)le,so^^^ 
south-ea^i  u  ttiili^  'W&  aii  half •,  the  fo^ir  lastdfistfitM;^' 
being  a  contiriiijil'tTa.pid ;  sdiitb-'west  by  west  oricjpj^i^ 
ea«t-north-east  aiiriile  and  an  ii^f,  es^st-sQUtK-ea^t  o^ 
mile,  where  a  smairrtter  flowed  iii  oh  the  right )  sQutl^-  ^ 
west  by  sotith  two  miles  iahd  aii  half,  wheiii   apiotherl 
small  river  appeared  ftdiii  the  same  (Quarter  j  south  by 
east  half  a  mile,  and  south-west  by  west  one  niile  and 
a  quarter:  here  we  landed  for  the  night.    When  w^ 
had  passed  the  Istst  river  we  observed  smpke  risiqg 
from  it,  aS"  If  produced  by  fires  that  had  b^ien  'rejih, 
lighted;  1  thei*efore  concluded  that  there  weneriativea  * 
on  its  banks;  but  I  was  unwilling  to  fatigue  ?i^7,'p^,'i^j, 
pie,  hy  pulling  back  against  the  current  iri  pirqejv^to^ 

go  j.i  search  of  them.  ■^i^^c>%'H^i 

This  river  appeared,  from  its  high  water-mark,  "ta . 
hf.ve  fallen  no  more  than  one  foot,  while  the  smaller 
branch,  from  a  similar  measurement,  had  sunk  two 
feet  and  an  half.  On  our  entering  it,  we  saw  a  flbcl;^ 
of  ducks  which  were  entirely  white,  except  tha  bijlt 
and  part  ef  the  wings.  The  weather  was  cold '  anS 
raw  throughout  the  day,  and  the  wind  south-west. 
We  saw  smoke  rising  in  columns  from  many  jparta 
of  the  woods,  and  I  should  have  been  more  an:^i6u$ 
to  sefe  the  natives,  if  there  had  been  any  person  with 
me  who  could  have  introduced  me  to  them;  bjit  as 
'hat  object  could  not  then  be  attained  without  c0nsir> 
derable  loss  of  time,  I  determined  to  pursue  the  na-, 
▼igation  while  it  continued  to  be  9o  favorable,  and  to 

Bb9 


1^       ^Aurml  ^jfa  ^<^ofre  $hroiigkfAei- 

iprait  till  my  returix»  if  no  very  ccmvenient  Qpportumi|^ 

offered  in  the  menn  time)  to  engage  in  an  intercourse 

IKiththem*  ^  ,;„;.; 

Wedkeaday  49.     The  morning  was  foggy*  apd  ai 

thrie  we  were  on  the  waler.     At  half  pa^t;  that.  bour« 

OUT  ooui'se  waa  east  by  south  three  ^narters  o£  aimUtt. 

«  «Ma}l  river  flowing  ito  from. the  right*  :  .We  thoU 

^oceedcd  south  by  easi  half  a>  lafuls^  aul  JM>utlh-«oil!ii|t9 

%e4ta  mile  an4  an  half*   iDucin^  i  the  last  distsMeV 

clouds  of  thick  smoke   rose  from  the  woodS)  ithal^ 

dm^kened  the  atmosphere^  accompankftd  with  a  strong 

ciiddtir  of  the  giiin  of  cypress  and  idne  s^^ruceTfir.  Our 

tidurses^  eontinuedto  be spoth-wtst a  mile  and  a  quai^ 

ter,  north-west  by  west  ttiree  i^aariters:«l'  a  mile,  jtouithh 

I  ^itouth-east  a  mile  and  a  quartet^  east;tfaBee  ^wdxsrs'fyr 

«  ipile)  south-west  one':miile^n.\ittsti  iiy  aoiiijth  tthr«& 

-quarters  of  a  mile,  south-esatby  sovilDth^ee  quaiiteili 

of  a  milOv  south  by  west  }^a|f.ft:taile^-iveSt.b^  south 

three  quarters  of  a  mile,  south  by  West  tw<o  miles  and 

txi  half*    In  the  last  course  there  was  an  island)  and 

it  appeared  to  me  that  the  main  ^anoel  of  the  river 

hiaid  formerly  been  on  the  other  side  of  itb     The  banks 

"^i^ere  here  composed  of  high  white  ^  Uffs,  eToonrncd  wilh 

^  pinnacles  in  very  grotesque  shapes.    Wo'  continue^ 

tti^'SfieeV'SOUthHejjLst  by  south  a  mile  and  ushalf^i  sMith 

'iy^f  «Mi'  hitif  a  mtile^  east  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  aou^* 

j'tostl>y  east  one  mile,  soutli  by  east  three  ^arter^ol;  a 

mile,  south-east  by  east  one  mile,  south-south'^east 

'  liialfa  mile,  east  one  mile  and  a  quarter,  south  by  east 

■'i^i  a  mile,  east  a  mile  and  an  half^  south-south-east 

f^lHrott  tniles,  and  south-west  three  quarters  of  a  mile* 

^^IH'the  last  course  the  rocks  contracted  in  ;such  a  man* 

-)  tB^^on  both  sides  of  the  river,  as  to  afford  the  appear* 

^I^kiitl  of  the  upper  pai^t  of  a  fall  or  cataract.  .Under 

^'l^is  apprehension  we  landed  on  the  left  shore,  where 

fi^it  found  !ft  kind   of  foot-path,  imperfectly  traced^ 

^^'^^iroiUgh  which  we  (o^pj^tured  that  the  natives  occa** 

!  lijiiontdlly  passed  their  oanoes  a^id  baggage*     Qu  e^am-> 

J^^ing'^the  course  of  the  river,  hQwever^  there  did  no^ 

Opfpear  to  be  any  f^ll  as  we  expected ;  but  thi  rapid^ 

^mJste  of  4eQtt|Hl€f%bA^  length,  s^id.  impaw^bl^'fof  % 


Nat^Weti  Cmlmnt  of  4«f  ri(^        «» 


I^ht  caii9«;    -We  baidrtherefovet  no  altematWo  ibut  to 
widen  i^bt-rood  Ba  as  ]^a  admit  ithepassag!^  of  our  tAn 
noC)  ^vhichwas  now  carried  with  great  difficulty:  avt 
lir^iyi  Iter  /frequont^ repairs) « and  not  alW'ay b  of  the  ubu-  . 
atitmtenials«li£r  #ei§ht  was  ftuohi  ^hat  she  cracked 
aiMf^^bi'dke'^n  ithft  ;9hdtilderaL  qf  the  men  who  bov(» 
berU  .-^Tlie  liyb^r«aDdfatfgufe«£thift  undertftkingtlirom 
rS^k^JIB^itvHihPtif  beggass^all  de8eri|Jt«on))  wh^A'^r^at 
l%ii|4th:!itoftq<ienid  |hi6(a{&ictiiig>paisa^^  ofltaboutthaU 
l|i|ktil0i,U>v>err  a)ri(tck7(aikdimost  riiggetl  hi&r'Qur  eoum^ 
Wfiun^soiit2ht«niltlK<i»t^>:  Hearer  Il^ook  a  merildiaA  jiMi^ 
t^^y'whvch>fg^JVG>!itkii($f3^4iSi^iipKi<,  faerih  latitude*  t/W:#!<» 
hdw»  Vitif^'dw)sli  f ome  dimeito  <put  •  otfr^canoe  ^ifv  9i  ^n^i^ 
t|^<^  cairry;  ua:  nflii»!fds4i  u0UB>c<nirte  WM  }S0UtIiif>»i 
VfuarUn^  «^ .  a^mUei<^to  ^kftrnei^ttcarryin^plaQQ  i . wIm«I& 
waS'n^Uiing  ifibr&lhanoaTDckjr.  plant  about:  twjifi»][t)ip 
itettg^hiofjthi'oakiD®.  vicpnmtihecKtelanity  of  thkfiQif^: 
to  ch^  Kbeky  'and  ahuoat  perpendicular  bank^  thftt  fom 
'4in  tbO  appcrsiCe^ar^,  tifs  not  more  ^an  forty (Oy^Jlij^ 
yard^     The  great  body  of  water,  at  tbc^  sa^«  ti|i]^ 
tumbling' in  iuceessive  cascades  along  the  fyp^xiWFVf- 
4|ig-place,  rolls  thnougb -this  narrow  passagi^  in  tt^f^Sfiy 
i  ttu  pbid  cuiTenty  i  i^od  f^  <xi :  whirlpeok*     Oxk  thil  b^P^ 
bpf^thncTivei^  there (^Aa  groat  plt^ntf  i>f  wil^t.D8ii9l^> 
Aiwhkh)  when tnuxedn up  Iwith  4>ur c  pf$nisuM>a]}|ifj9ji%)ia 
i^reat^  impcqyenient  of^  ^  i  thqeugh^  ^y^.  ipsodn^^c^^ 
1/ physical  efRectxi^  our  appe^tes,  :#hAQhi  Wtt»:ira^«eii»- 
:?;^x>n^enienttQ  the  state  of  ourprovisiiasas.!/  •  ??  .'Aiin 
'i<    If  ere  we  embarked)  and  it^eiWd  £Ki>uthr^»^  k^If^t 
i' three  quarters  of  a  mile.     Wenowsa^aJiiMk^  <)|^e 
♦vthore  ^  but  before  we  could  reach  ladtd^ib^^fKal^yi^hfcl 
'deserted  ti^ir-campv  whicb  appeased' '^o  ksl  *«f  oild 
"liot  no  luor^  l^haa  two  families.     My  twoi^tVi«l^-¥l^e 
1  instantly  dispatched  in  seerok  of  th<^n\«>r^4ttlll](d^i-> 
?  Wing  their  tracks,  they  soon  ovfa^o$^>il|^«i  ii<fmi 
their  language  was  mutually  unintelligibly^  |tn4«#ll 
attempts  to  produce  a  friendly  comi|iiU>nic9,ti«i^,W!^Fe 
fruitless.    They  no  soone^r  perceived  my  youogj^siw^n; 
r  thanr  tliey  prepared  their  bows  and  aiiqwsandrli^e 
i^igns  for  them  not  to  advance  ;  and .  tiiey.  tl^Q^gi^  it 
prudent  to  desist  from  pcqqeiifl^i  tl^ougj^  9£»tij|^t:^ 


»*' 


?(' 


296      '    ymrnalof  a  Voyafie  through  the 

the  natives  had  dischareed  five  arrows  at  them)  which, 
hbwever,  they  avoided,  by  means  of  fhc  trees.    When 
Ihey  returned  with  this  account,  1 1  ery  much  r'  gret- 
ted  that  I  had  not  accompanied  them  :  as  the je'  fit^y- 
pie  could  not  be  at  any  very  great  distance^  I  tobli' 
Mr.  Mackay,  and  one  of  tht  Indians -vrilh  me  in  ori^ 
der  to  overtake  them,  but  they  had  got  so  fiii^  that  it^ 
would  have ,  been  iftijjrudeht  m^'i>e  to  Wave'FdUo#«id' 
them«     My  Indians,  who,  I  beliiveVwer^  teiirtftedrit*' 
the  manner  in  which  thiese  native*  received  them,  in-^^* 
formed   me  that,    be aTides  their  bOWs,    ari*6w&,  an^' 
spears,  they  were  armed  With  long  knives^  *ind  that' 
they  accompanied  their  strange  antics  wkh  menacing *• 
actions  and  loud  shoutings.    On  mv  return^  I  fbund 
my  people  indulging  their  curiosity  m  examiftiiig  the' 
bags  and  baskets  which  the  natives  had  left l)6hfnd them* 
Some  of  them  contained  their  fishing-tackle  ;^  such  ai^- 
nets,  lines.  Sec.  others  of  a  smaller  sfise  were  filled- 
with  a  red  earth,  with  which  they  paint  themselves. ' 
In  several  of  the  bags  there  were  also  sundry  articles 
of  Which  we  did  not  know  the  use.     I  prevented  my" 
men  from  taking  any  of  them  ;  and  for  a  few  articles 
of  mere  curiosity,  which  I  took  myself,  I  left  such 
things  in  exchange  as  wo<ild  be  much  more  useful  to 
their  owners.  > 

At  four  we  left  this  place,  proceeding  with  the 
stream  south-east  three  quarters  of  a  mile,'east-80uth-^^ 
east  one  mile^  south  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  south- 
south-west  one  mile,  south  by  east  three  quarters  of 
a  mik,  south-southeast  one  mile,  soiith-south-west' 
two  miles,  south*south-east  three  miles  and  a  quarter,, 
east  by  north  one  mile,  soiUh-south-ea^  one  mile  and' 
a  quarter,  with  a  rapid,  south-south-west  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile,  south  one  mile  and  an  half,  south-east 
one  mile  and  a  quarter,  south  three  quarters  of  a  mile,' 
and  south-south-east  one  mile  and  an  half.  At  half 
past  seven  we  landed  for  the  night,  where  a  smaU 
river  flowed  in  from  the  right.  The  weather  was 
showejpy,  accompanied  with  several  loud  claps  of 
thunder.  The  banks  were  overshadowed  by  lofty  firs, 
and  wide-spreading  cedars* 


which  9 
When 
Pv'-gret*- 
»e  i>eo- 
I  tool- 
!  in  01*^ 

jm,  Jn^^^ 
ITS,  and 
iid  that* 
macing 
I  fbdhd 
t^the' 
cltKem^ 
such  ail 
>e  fiUed- 

articleAt 
cd  mjT^ 
articles 
ft  such 
icful  to 

th  the 
;-«outh- 
south- 
ters  of 
th-west 
quarter,. 
Lile  and 
e  quar- 
ith-east 
a  mile, 
At  half 
%  smaU 
er  was 
aps  of 
»fty  firs, 


I] 


Thursday  20.  « Xhe  morfiing  vuis  fdggf)  apd  .  at 
half  past  four  we  procQ^de^  with  a  south  wind,  Aputb* 
eaat  bj  eajit  jbwo  n^Ues,  sou^h^soitthrcaat  two  milM  ind 
an  hal£^ ,  and  aoUt) ^-aouthr w^ ,  twOt  naifi%  ^^*j  PS 
ws^  lio  MvcVihaii.  w#^(;ouiUlr  not  ^ff  tl^e  )ei^4h  (^  cprt 
caiioei,  rwjb^lis  ^QntUire0,^urrprogrf ss  dt^geipcms^  ^  \r» 
migi^,|iayfs^:c(E»m«  j|ii4^f;i^y:up99  ^jc^sca^^^^r  violent 
r»eiArai;.Q«>\o^J^ir-Pv^uf«e  ,;<jra»r:>ft*t-^apih-w«»t<  ^, 

Being  ^los*  in  witl^^tjb&lcl't.banlB  <oC:  ^hi*  rivtur^  we  pert 
c«4v<ed  tw*»i.?Fe44^r  %t,t^  vei^  fjdg^  pf  the  wfvt^  j 
\VQ,J^lf^pqi^ofnt^f!i?(biap4'Wou|>d^  th9eth«r>,wh|# 

fo(^Wji|l  |thft.?ji5^^4^j;d  .*|»m}a»  ^^hich  they  spottcaugh^ 
an^i^n^^iM^fJWki^  ^h^^;j%09i^i^er  i»  ^bie  W9<^4»»);^f,  »^ 
dog*  .w)¥i^M^MnB4!^f?^v*w<*inpt  4i*^rbe$i,ik'  lf^5(^ 
the,  9W»hc5f  pf  J  ti^^. itr^vcJia  it  ^pp^aced'  thaV  tlM»3F  ; 
abpuii4ed  ink  t^4f  c^Y\try«    They  ajre  not  eo  Urge  Apt  -^ 
the  el)^  of  (the  Peace  RivjE^ry  but  are  the  vea^  reddeef^., 
which  I  never  aair  iin  the  naith^  though  I  ha?e  beent  i 
told  that  they  are  ta  be  found  in  great  numbers   itli 
the  plfunt  along  the  Red^  or   Aa^niboin  River*,    S'be 
bai^  hack  bqeu;  stjripped  off  m^y  of  the  spru^e-treeS)^ 
aivd  oarru^d  4W^|ia%,I  piresMmed,  by  ihp  n§|tiy4SvftM^(>; 
the  purpose  of  covering  their  cabins.  We  no^9rg9%^%\ 
vei)ifioi\^ajboar|d>^u^«ontinued  our  voyf^e,|oujM^?Fe/^t 

one  in4lf ,  *pwthia^le  and  an  Mfr  a^dwea^  ,9«^  W^ji«i-; 
Here  the  i^ountcy -phanged  its  apfpearfjace f  ;>h^  )H^lfl^ 
were  butof  a  inpderate  height,  from  wJb,^t>c^ti^esx^U^!^., 
condnued  gradually  rising  ta  a  consider^l^.^jstai^f^i  j 
covered  \vith  poplars  and  cypressef^,  b^t?;?wM^lipuifinjr^r* 
kind  of  uuderwood.  .  There  are  also  sevemi|]^^(P9^|»,;  - 
which  the  river^  that  is   here  about  th^if^  h\y;^|^  ^ 
yards  in  breadth^  sometimes  overflows,  and,l|7|l^  ^ii^t^^^ 
with  the  liard,  the  soft  bitch,  the  spruce)-j!^|(]^iW>^; 
low.    For  some  distance  before  we  qanifttfltj^^pai^f 
of  the  river,  our  view  was  confined  within  veir^;  J^ugfv.^: 
ged,  irregular,  and  lofty  banks,  which  Were  varie^'i^it^  > 
the  poplar,  different  kinds  of  spructt-lir,  sn\fdl  bif0j^,( 
trees,  cedars,  alders,  and  several  speoieaof  t^e  w^j^if^.^ 
Qur  neibt  60urs«  waa  south*we«t  l^y  ,w«jlt  41^  |^e||^; 


'^fr^ — 


t98  Journal  of  a  Voyage  thtcfugh  the ' 

wlien  we  landed  at  a  deserted  houiet  which  was  the 
the  only  Indian  habitation  of  this  kind  that  I  had  seen' 
on  this  side  of  Mechilimakina.  It  was  about  thirty  feet 
long}  and  twenty  wide^  with  three  doors,  three  feet 
high  by  one  foot  and  an  half  in  breadth.  Frorn  this' 
and  other  circumstance^,  it  appears  to  haVe  been  con-^ 
fttructed  for  three  families.  There  were  also  three 
fire-'places,  at  equal  distances  from  each  other  f  and 
the  beds  were  on  either  s^e  of  them.  Behind  the 
beds  was  a  narrow  space  in  the  form  of  a  manger,  and 
somewhat  elevated,  which  was  appropriated  to  the  pur<^ 
pose  of  keeping  fish.  The  wall  of  the  house,  which  was 
five  feet  in  height,  was  formed  of  very  strait  spruce 
timbers,  brought  close  together,  and  laid  into  each 
other  at  the  corners.  The  roof  was  supported  by  a  ridge 
pole,  resting  on  two  upright  forks  of  about  ten  feet 
high ;  that  and.  the  wall  support  a  certain  number  of 
spars,  which  are  covered  with  spruce  bark;  and  the 
whole  attached  and  secured  by  the  fibres  of  the  ceitar. 
One  of  the  gable  ends  is  closed  with  split  boards ;  the 
other  with  poles.  Large  rodd  are  also  fixed  across  the 
upper  part  of  the  building,  where  fish  may  hang  and 
dry.  To  give  the  walls  additional  strength,  upright 
posts  are  fixed  in  the  ground,  at  equal  distances,  both 
within  and  without,  of  the  same  height  as  the  wall, 
and  firmly  attached  with  bark  fibreip.  i|0penings  ap- 
pear also  between  the  log^  in  the  waU,  for  the  purpose, 
as  I  conjectured)  of  discharging  their  arrows  at  a  be- 
sieging enemy ;  they  would  be  needless  for  the  pur- 
pose, of  givbig  light,  which  is  sufficiently  afforded  by 
fissures  between  the  logs  of  the  building,  So  that  it  ap- 
peared to  be  constructed  merely  for  a  summer  habi- 
tation. There  was  nothing  furtheV  to  attract  our  at- 
tention in  oy  about  the  house,  except  a  large  ma- 
chine, whicH  must  have  rendered  the  taking  off  the 
roof  absolutely  necessary,  in  order  to  have  introduced 
it.  It  was  of  a  cylindrical  form,  fifteen  feet  long,  and 
four  feet  and  an  half  in  diameter  :  one  end  was  square, 
like  the  head  of  a  cask,  and  a  conical  machine  was 
fixed  inwards  to  the  other  end,  of  similar  dimensions; 
at  the  extremity  of  which  was  an  opening  of  about 
seven  inches  diameter*      . 


North'Wttt  Cpntinent  tf  Amerka,        ^fjQ 


ras  the 
ad  seen 
riy  feet- 
ee  feet 
)m  thU' 
;en  con- 
10 -three 
ler  V  and 
tind  the 
iger,  and 
the  pur- 
hich  \»aft 
it  spruce 
nto  each 
>y  a  ridge 
t  ten  feet 
umber  of 
,;  and  the 
the  cellar. 
>ards ;  the 
across  the 

hang  and 
1,  upright 
incesjboth 
I  the  wall, 
enings  ap- 
le  purpo8e» 
W8  at  a  be- 
3r  the  pur- 
afforded  by 
)that  it  ap- 
mtner  liabi- 
ract  our  at- 
,  large  ma- 
ung  off  the 
;  introduced 
et  long,  and 

was  square, 

nachine  was 
dimensions*, 
ing  of  about 


This  machine  was  certainly  contrived  to  set  in  thc^ ' 
river^  to  catch  large  fish  \  and  very  well  adapted  to 
that  purpose ;    ^s  when  they  are  once  in,  it  must  b^ 
impossible  fot  them  to  get  out^   unless  they  shou|,4 
have  strength  sijfiicient  to  breM^  thro^^h  \U    \%  'ivt^t 
xttade  bndng  pieces  of  split  W6pd,  rounded  io  the,9i(2|t«t 
of  a  <sina)ll  finger,  and  placed  at  the  distapcf  of  9m 
ineU  isunder^  6n  six  hoops ;  to  ihis  yrr  ^ded,  |L  kim(|: 
of  !)ooe  t>ii\\i  same  materiilsi^ii^o  w^ich*it  ^tmy  to> 
SJ^K^dsi^d  (hat  the  fish  are  driven,  when  ^hey  a?e  to  pc^ 
taktsn  6ut.    The  houi^e  Was  Uti  in  such  apparent  ^ir- 
defe^'is  tb  mark  t^e  desig^ijl  6f  iU  owners  to  ref urn  mr 
thcK    It  ansi^^^:^  dvery 'Wrticular  the,  description^ 
gitenfWbi^  our  late  gt]i<^^,  except  tliai  it  was  not  si^t 
tikatcd'dnanfslahd. 

^^iVe  left  this  ;^lae^,  and  steered  south  by  east  qhc 
n^!l€i  e^d  k^Uiaiter  when  We  passed  where  there,  l^a^j 
been  atitfttt^r  l^bse^  of  Wiil(!ih  the  ridge-pole  and  su^^ 
porters  alone  retnaimsd :  the  ice  had  probably  carried 
away  the  bodyof  it.    The  bank  was  at  this  ^e  cp^, 
vered  with  watet',  ^d  a  small  river  flowed  inonthc^ 
left.    On  a  point  wi^  observed  an  erection  that,  had  the 
appearance  of  a  t6ttpib  ;  it  was  in  an  oblong  form,  c6^ 
vered*  and  very  neatly  walled  with  hark.    A  pple  ^ft%, 
fixed'near  it^  to  ^hidi,  at  the  height  of  ten  or  tw^]|;^j; 
feet,  a  piecie' df  bark  W^X  litt^ehed,  w1)ich  was  prohja^; 
biy  a  memorial,  or  symbol  of  distinction.    Qur  next, 
course  was  south  by  west  two  miles  and  an  half,  when 
we  saw  an  house  on  an  island,  south-east  by  east  one 
mile  and  three  quarters,  in  which  we  ©bserved  ano- 
ther island,  with  an  house  iTpon  it.     A  river  also, 
flowed  from  the  right,  and  the   land  was   high  and, 
rocky,  and  wooded  with  the  epinette. 

Our  canoe  was  now  become  so.  crazy »  that  it  was  a< 
matter  of  absolute  necessity  to  construct  another  |i 
and  as  from  the  appearance  of  the  country  .there  <was^ 
reason  to  expect  that  bark  was  to  be  found,  wp  Jandedi 
at  eight,  with.the  hppe  of  procuring  ,it.  I  accordingly;^ 
dispatched  four  men  with  tljiat .  commissionj  wd  at. 
twelve  they  returned  with. a  ^ufiicient  .qu^tlty  to^ 
make  thc^  bottom  of  a.  canoe  o^  five  .fathojm  in  lengthy 


J'- 


900  JourtHdofa  Voyage  ^     "^gh  tht 


K<. 


1', 


and  {bur  feet  and  an  half  in  height.  At  noon  I  had 
an  observation,  which  gave  me  9'3.  17.  28.  north 
latitude. 

We  now  continued  our  voyage  80Uth*east  by  south 
one  mile. and  an  hall^  east-south-east  one;  mile)  east- 
north-east  half  a  milfiy  south-east  two  mileS)  south* 
east  by  south  one  mile,  south*«aft  six  miles,  aod 
cast*north^east.  Upre  the  river  narrows  between  two 
steep  rpckS|  and  a  rapi<\;|ucce^d^^^  wtuch  was  so  vio^ 
l«nt  tKat  we  di4  ,  no^  yentiiK  ^.^i^,,  it.  I  therefore 
ordered  the  loaidiing  (p^^^ji  takc^jm^  ^^^t  canoe,  but 
she^  was  fiLwJbiec^iin^  Vp  heayy..tn|it  t^ie  m'ei^  pre^rred 
vunninfe  the'  {•apid*  toj>  t^^'  carry ipg.  h«P    oVerland* 

them 
hiistened 
to  ii^ait 
,^     ,  ,^tp^'ctcd.    The  wat 

tier  wp  s6  Al^hg,  that  although, th«y  kept  clear  of 
th^  rocHs,  the  tanoe  filled,  and  in  this  state  they 
drove  half  wa^  down  the  rapid,  but  fortunately  she 
did  not  overset  f  and  having  got  her  into  an  eddy, 
th^  emptied  her,  and  in  an  half-drowned  condition 
a(rrHred  safe  on  shore.  The  'cat*i;'ying-{^ace  is  about 
half  a  hlile  ovet*,  with  an  Indian  path  across  it.  Mr. 
Miicklfiy,  ahd  tKi[  hunters,  saw  some  deer  on  an  island 
abdVfe  thb  Va^id;  and  hi^  that  discovery  been  made 
befdVe  ^he  departure  6f  the  canoe,  there  is  Iittlfe  doubt 
but  we  should  have  added  a  considerable  quantity  of 
venison  to  our  stock'  of  provisions.  Our  vessel  was 
in  such  a  'Wi'etched  condition,  as  I  have  already  ob- 
served, that  it  occasioned  a  delay  of  three  hours  tb 
put  her  in  a  condition  to  proceed.  At  length  we  con- 
tinueid^  bur  former  course,  east-north'^ast  a  mile  and 
an  haOif,  when  we  passed  an  extensive  Indian  encamp- 
meht  ^  east-iotith-east  one  mile,  where  a  small  river 
i^ppeared  on  the  lef^ ;  south-east  by  south  one  mile 
and  three  quarters,  east  by  south,  half  a  mile,  east  by 
north  one  mile,  and  s&M^ another  house  on  an  island ; 
south  hSif  a  mile,  west  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 
aouth-West  half  a  milti  iirliere  the  cliff)i  of  white  and 


Xirth^WfH  CfHiiHtnt  xf  Amertta,        9ifi 


I  ha4 
nort)i 

f  south 

5,  ea»t- 

south- 

cen  two 
J  so  vio^ 
ficrcforc 
^oe,  but 
Tarred 
iVerlAnd* 
p  propo- 
of.thcm 
hastened 
,  to  v^ait 
The  Mr t^ 
►t  clear  of 
tate  they 
\ately  she 
an   cddyy 
condition 
i  it  about 
i  it.    Mr. 
i  an  isVand 
ecn  made 
ittk  doubt 
■jijantity  of 
[vessel  vra» 
llready  ob- 
;  hours  to 
h  we  con- 
^  iriile  and 
[n  encamp- 
'unall  river 
one  tnile 
le,  feast  by 
an  island; 
of  a  milCj 
^hite  and 


red  clay  appe^Hsd  Kke  the  ruins  of  ancient  cntki* 
Oi»r  canoe  now  veered  gradually  to  east-north-eaA 
one  mile  and  an  half}  when  we  landed  in  a  itQirm  of 
fain  and  thunder,  where  we  perceived  the  remains  of 
Indian  housec.  It  was  impossible  to  determine  tht 
¥pind  in  any  part  of  the  day,  as  it^ctme  a^head  in  all 
•ur  directions. 

J^'ridau  31.  A«  I  wai  ttrv  s«tnible  of  the  dMRcuH^ 
«f  procuring  provisiohs  in  im  country,  I  thoug|ht  it 
prudent  to  giAtrd  against  any  possibility  of  distvess  of 
that  kind  on  our  return  ;  I  therefore  orde^red  ninety 
pounds  weight  of  pemmican  to  be  buriied  in  an  hokV 
sufficiently  deep  to  admit  of  a  fire  oi^r  it  wilhouf  do- 
ing any  injury  to  our  hidden  treasure,  and  which 
w^d,  at  the  same  time,  secure  it  from  the  natives  of 
the  country,  or  thewfld  animals  of  the  woodt* 

The  morning  was  very  cloudy,  and  at  four  o'clfibk 

we   renewed  our  voyage,  steering  south  by  east  0^6 

mile  and  a  quarter,  east-south-east  half  a  mile>  tntk 

by  east  one  mHe  and  an  half,  east  half  a  mile,  souths 

east  two  miles,  where  a  large  river  flowed  in  from  th6 

left,  and  a  smaller  one  fromtbe  right.    We  then  ooh<> 

tinued  south  by  <ii^st  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  east  by 

south  a  mite  and   an  hdif,  south  three  quaiters  of  iL 

,  mile,  south-east  by  east  one  mile,  i(6uth  by  east  kaS£ 

a  mile',  soutli^east  three  quarters  6f  a  mile,  south- 

east  by  south  half  a  mile,  south-ea^t  by  eait  half  d 

mile,  the  di^  of  blue  and  yellow  ttay,  displaying 

the  same  grotesque  shapes  as  th6se  which  we  passed 

yesterday,  south-south-east  a  milfe  and  an  half,  south 

by  east  two  miles.    The  latitude  by  dbservation  warf 

S3.  47.  51.  north. 

Here  we  perceived  a  smaU  rieW  canoe,  that  had 
been  drawn  up  to  the  edge  o^  the  woods,  and  so6n  af* 
ter  another  appeared,  with  one  man  in  it,  which  came' 
out  of  a  small  river.  He  no  80<>Qer  saw  ui  than  he 
gave  the  whoop,  to  alarm  his  friends,  who  immedi- 
ately appeared  on  the  bank^  <armed  with  bows  and  ar- 
rows, and  spears.  They  were  tMiily  habited,  and 
displayedt  the  most  outrageous  an^Sk  Though  they 
were  certainly  in  a  stute  of  great  n^prebension,  t^iaf 


50*       .  Jouriiai  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


I 


manifested  by  their  gestures  that  they  were  resolre^ 
to  attack  us,  if  we  should  venture  to  land.     I  there- 
fore ordered  the  men  to  stop  the  way  of  the  canoe, 
and  even  to  check  her  drifting  with  the  current,  as  it 
would  have  been  extreme  folly  (o  have  approached 
thes^  savages  before  their  fury  hiid  in   some  degree 
•Ubsided.     My  interpreters,  who  understood  thei k"  lan- 
fuag<,  informed  me  that  thef  threatened  ils  Aiiih  in- 
•tant  death  if  we  drew  nigh  the  shore ;  and  they  fol- 
lowed The  menace  by  discharging  a  volley  of' tirh)Ws, 
some  of  which  fell  short  of  the  canoe,  and  dtheris  pas- 
.■ed  over  it,  so  that  they  fortunately  did  us  no  injury. 
As  we  had  been  carried  by  the  ctirfcnt  below  thic  spot 
where  the  Indians  were,  I  ordered  my  people  to  pad- 
die  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  without  the  least 
appeara^ice  of  confusion,   so  that  they   broti^ht  me 
abreast  of  them'-     My  interpreters,   while  we  were 
within  hearing,  had  done  every  thing  in  their  power 
^0  pacify  them,  but  in  vain.     We  also  observed  that 
they  had  sent  off  a  canoe  with  two  men,  down  the  ri- 
ver, as  we  concluded,  to.  communicate  their  alarm» 
and  procure  assistance.  This  circumstance  determin- 
ed me  to  leave  no  means  untried,  that  might  engage 
u^  in  fl  friendly  intercourse  with  them,  before  they 
ac()uii^ed  additional  security  and  confidence,  by  the  ar- 
rival of  their  relations  and  neighbours,  to  whom  their 
situation  Would  be  shortly  notified. 
.,  '^I  therefore  formed  the  following  adventurous  pro- 
Jectj  which  was  happily  crowned  with  success.     I  left 
the  cahoe,  and  walked  by  myself  along  the  beach,  in 
order  tb  induce  some   of  the  natives  to  come  to  me, 
which,^  I  imagined  they  might  be  disposed  to  do,  when 
they  saw  m^  alone,  without  any  apparent  possibility 
of  i'eKf^iVin^  assistance  from  my  people,   and  vould 
c(jrtsc<luently  imagine  that  a  communication  with  me 
was  not  a  service  of  danger.     At  the  same  time,  in 
order  to  possess  the  utmosc  security  of  which  my  si- 
tuation was  susceptible,  I  directed  one  of  the  Indians 
to  slip  into  the  woods,  with  my  gun  and  his  own,  and 
to  conceal  himself  from  their  discovery  ;    he  also  bad 
•rders  to  keep  as  near  me  as  possible,  without  being 


'^> 


NorthAVeat  Continent  of  America,        30k 


,  1  ihere- 
the  cano©» 
rrent,  a»  it 
pproached 
tie  degree 
dthe?flan- 
lis  >+ith  in- 
I  they  fol- 
of  arrtws, 

bthcrt  t»a»- 
s  no  ti^ury. 
ow'  the  spot 
f>ple  to  pad- 
iutthe  Icait 
broof^ht  me 
1^  we  were 
their  power 
)acrved  that 
down  the  ri- 
their  alarm, 
:e  determin- 
ight  engage 
before  they 
e,  by  the  ar- 
whom  their 

nturoua  pro- 
cess.   I  left 
le  beach,  in 
come  to  me, 
to  do,  when 
possibility 
and  would 
ion  with  me 
me  time,  in 
(vhich  my  «i- 
f  the  Indians 
his  own,  and 
he   also  bad 
ithout  being 


\ 


teen  ;  and  if  any  of  the  nattvei  should  venture  across, 
and   attempt  to  shoot  me  from  the  water,  it  was  his 
instructions  to  lay  him  low  :  at  the  same  time  he  was 
particularly  enjoined  not  to  fire  till  I  had  discharged 
one  or  both  of  the  pistols  that  I  carried  in  my  belt. 
If,  however,  any  of  them  were  to  laud,  and  approach 
my  person,  he  was  immediately  to  join  me.     In  the 
mean  time  my  other  ioterpi'cter  assured  them,  that 
we  entertaioeid  thejppst  friendly  aisposi^on,  wjiich  I 
coD/uipedl  by,,|^cb  sigtiais  as  I  cpnceived  would  b» 
comprehended  by  tl)^m«.  I  had  ^t,  indeed,-  ^een  longj^' 
at  my  station,  and  my  Indian  in  aj^buah  bc;hind  me^^ 
when  i,wo  pf  .^^  patives  came  off  in,  a  canoe,  but  jstop** 
ped  whei^,the;y   had  got  lyithin  ,Hn  huiui^'ed  yards  o^f 
me.    I  made  signs  for  theo^  ^o  landt  and  i^  an  ih- 
ducemept,  displayed  looking-glasses,  beads,  and  other 
alluring  trinl^ts*     At  leng^ht  but  with  Qvery  mark  of 
extreme  apprehension,  .they  i^pprqached  the  shore«' 
stern  foremost,  but  would  not  venture  to  lai^d.     1  now 
made  them  a  present  of  some  beads,  with  wlvich  they 
were  going  to  push  off,  when  I  renewed  my  entrea- 
ties, and  after  some  time,  prevailed  on  them  to  come^ 
ashore,  and  sit  down  by  me.     My  hunter  now  thought^ 
it  right  to  join  me,  and  created  some  alarm  ii>  my  new 
acquaiptance*    It  was,  however,  soon,  Te^ioveq;;  an4' 
I  had  the  satisfaction  to  fbd^that  he  and  t^ese  V^^^\t 
perfectly  understood  each  other.    Iinstructfd,him.to' 
say  every  thing  that  might  tend  to  soothe  their  tears, 
and  win  their  confidence.  .  I  expressed  my  wish  tp^ 
conduct  them  to  our  canoe,  but  they  decjined  fny  of- 
fer ;  and  when  they  observed  some  of  my  jp.eople  com^ 
ing  towards  us,  they  requested  me  to  let  them  return ; 
and  I  was  so  well  satisfied  with  the  progress,  I  h^? 
made  in  my  inteixourse  with  them,  that  I  did  not  he-^ 
&itate  a  moment  in   complying,  with  th^eir  desire. 
Duri  g  their  short  stay,  they  qbserved  us,  anq  every 
thing  about  us,  with  a  mixture  of  admiration  and  as- 
tonishment.    We  could  plainly  distinguish  that  their 
friends  received  them  with  great  joy  on  their  return, 
and  that  the  articles  whieh  they  carried  back  wit^ 
them^  were  examined,  with  a  general  and  eager  curi'^i 


W         yommi  of  a  Voyage  through  tk^ 

qtity ;  tUey  also  a^eared  to  hold  a  consultation,  which 
lasted  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  the  result  was, 
s^n  invitbtjon  to  come  over  to  them,  which  was  cheer* 
fully  accepted.  Nevertheless,  on  our  landing,  they 
b«tray«4  evident  signs  of  confusion,  which  arose,  pro- 
h»k)ly  from  tjlje  quickness  of  our  movements,  as  the 
prpspQct  of  %  fi^endly  eomjcnunication  had  so  cheered 
t^e  spirUaof  my  people*  thatth|ey  p^iddled  across  the 
river  witlithqvtirost  expedition.  ,  The  two  men,  how- 
ever, y(iio  had  been  with  us^  appeared  veo-y  naturally, 
to  possess  t^e  greatest  share  of  courage  on  the  occa- 
sipn,  ai>d  were  ready  to  rectivp  us  on, our  landing; 
\i^t  our  demeanor  soon  dispelled  all  their  appi'ehen- 
ftion^i  and  the  most  familiar  comnumication  tpok  place 
between  ii^r  When  I  had  secured  their  confidence, 
by.  the  di^tril^utioa  of  trink&ts:  among  them,  and  treat- 
^  the  children  with  jsugar,  I  instructed  my  interpre- 
ters to  collect  every^  |iec^s&ary  information   in  theiv 

p«ower  to  afford  me.  .i.„3r?  ^M' 
•^  Recording    to    their   account,    this    river,  whose 

cjiurse  is  very  extensive,  runs  towards  the  mid-daf 
sup  ;  and  that  at  its  mouth,  as  they  had  been  inform- 
ed, white  people  were  building  houses.  They  repre- 
sfil^d  Ua  current  to  be  uniformly  strong,  and  that  in 
t{iree  pliices  It  was  altogether  impassible,  fi'om  the 
fi^Us^i^  ra>pid3,  which  poured  along  between  perpen- 
(jy^;u)ar,  mcks  that  were  much  higher,  and  more  rug- 
Uiedilian  any  we  had  yet  seen,  and  would  not  admit 
ftf  any  passage  over  them.  But  besides  the  dangers 
aj]i4  difficulties  of  the  navigation,  they  added,  that  we 
/should  have  to  encounter  the  inhabitants  af  the  coun- 
try, who  were  very  numerous.  They  also  represent- 
ei/l  their  immediate  neighbors  as  a  very  malignant 
ra,cej  who  lived  in  large  subterraneous  recesses  ;  and 
when  they  were  made  to  understand  that  it  was  our 
jdesiigi)^  to  proceed  to  the  sea,  they  dissuaded  us  from 
proBecuting  our  intention,  as  we  should  certainly  be- 
come a  sacrifice  to  the  savage  spirit  of  the  natives. 
These  people  they  described  as  possessing  iron,  arms, 
and  utensils,  which  they  procured  from  their  neigh- 
Iwrs  to  the  Y/e&tward,  and  were  obtained  by  a  Ojpm-. 


Nbrth-JVest  Continent  of  AmericM,        90S 


on,  which 
csult  was, 
iras  cheer- 
iing,  they 
iTOse,  pro- 
itS)  as  the 
io  cheered 
^cro&s  the 
men,  how- 
'  naturaUyf 
El  the  occa- 
ir  landing; 
'.  appi'ehen- 
ntpok  place 
confide  nee» 
^  and  treat- 
ty  interppe- 
Mi  in  thei» 

iver,  whose 
he  mid-day 
lecn  inform- 
rhey  repre- 
and  that  in 
ie>  fvomthc 
iFecn  perpen- 
1  more  rug- 
not  admit 
the  dangers 
dedv  that  we 
of  the  coun- 
,0  represent- 
y  malignant 
cesses  ;  and 
t  it   was  out 
ded  us  from 
certainly  be- 
the  natives, 
g  iron,  arms, 
their  neigh- 
ed by  a  Cjp«i^ 


Miercial  progress  from   people   like  ourselves   who 
brought  them  in  great  canoes.   - 

Such  an  account  of  our  situation,  exaggerated  as  it 
might  be  in  some  points,  and  erroneous  in  others,  was 
suf&ciently  alarning,  and  awakenea  very  painful  re- 
flections ;  nevertheless  it  did  not  operate  on  my  mind 
^oasto  produce  any  change  in  my 'briginal  detenni- 
nationi  Mjr  fitst  objefct^  therefdr^i  wks '  tb  persuade 
two  of  these  people  to  accirfmpahy  ixie,  ftat  they 
mightTsfecure  for  us  a"  favot*abIe  reception  from  their 
neighbors*  To  this'  proposition-  they  assented,  but 
expressed  some  degree  of  dissatisfaction  at  the  imtne> 
dtate  departure,  fer^hrch'We  Wiere  making  prepara- 
tion ;  but  when  We  were  ready  to  ejiter  the  canbe^  a 
small  one  was  seen  doubling  the  point  below,  with 
three  men  in  it.  We  thought  it  pirudent  to  wait  for 
their  arrival)  and  they  proved  td  be  some  of  their  re- 
lations, who  had  received  the  alarm  from  the  messen- 
gers, which  I  have  already  mentioned  as  having  been 
sent  down  the  river  for  that  purpose,  and  wtio  had 
passed  on,  as  we  were  afterwards  informed,  to  ex- 
tend the  notice  of  our  arrivak  Though  these  people 
saw  us  in  the  midst  of  their  fiiendsj  they  displayed 
the  most  m^acing  actions,  and  hostile  postures.  At 
length,  however,  this  wild,  savage  spirit  appeared  to 
subside,  and  they  were  persuaded  to  Iknd.  Ohd  tof 
them,  who  was  a  middle  aged  person,  whose  a^Hia- 
tions  h€Ld  been  less  frequent  than  those  of  his  cbmpa- 
nlons,  and  who  was  treated  with  particular  re^pett  by 
them  all,  inquired  who  we  weTe,  whence  we  pame, 
whither  we  were  going,  and  what  wats  the  motive  of 
our  coming  into  that  country^  When  his  friends 
had  satisfied  him  as  far  as  they  were  abk,  respecting 
us,  he  instantly  advised  us  to  delay  our  departure  for 
that  night,  as  their  relations  below,  haying  been  by 
this  time  alarmed  by  the  messengers,  who  had  been 
sent  for  that  purpose,  would  certainly  oppose  our  pas- 
sage, notwithstanding  I  had  two  of  their  own  people 
with  me.  He  added,  that  they  would. all  of  them  be 
here  by  suH-set,  when  they  would  be.  convinced)  as. 
.  Cc2     .  ^ 


•f*« 


'mmmftft* 


!■■»    "M'l 


mim 


W06         fouffwi  of  a  V^oyage  through  tkt 

he  waS)  that  we  were  gtx>d  people,  and  meditated  m 
iU  designs  against  them. 

'^  Such  were  the  reasons  which  this  Indian  urged  in 
fiiTor  of  ouv  remaining  tilUhe  next  morning' f  and 
they  were  too  well  fotlnded  for  me  to  hesitate  ki  oom^ 
plying  i^ith  them  i^  de^ides^  b^  ptoldn^ingiinf  stajr 
till  the^next  nidming^Ut  hki^  pMbafMe  that  t'^iglu 
obtain  >6me'1mpore&dt  intelligence!  ^i^^^ctinf  the 
country  through  Which  1^  Waste  'pMii'Ait  the  p««r« 
pie  v^ho  inhabited^  \^'4  itotordit^Iy  opderttdithieica- 
noe  tobe  unioadedV't&ken  but  of  the  water,  ahdgum. 
med.  My  tent  was  alsti^  ^pitchied^  <aa^^  the>  JiatiTite 
wei^  ttbw  become  so  fami^r,  thait^l  #as  obU^d^^^  <to 
iet  theiTi  knovr  '^  wish'tb  be>ll6fie  tod  Undisturbed* 
My  first;  liptilic|H6i^  t^t^r 'hatite  whoni>  1  ii ate  al- 
Tea<!^  iiar^euiariy  niiAtiiMied^'was  to  obtcdn^  fN>m4«im 
euch  a  phtn  6f  the  ri^^^ii^  he  tlh^itild  be  enabled  to 
■0ire  me  ;  and  he  comi^ied  with^^  tMtt^  i-e^iiiMft'  ^ith  a 
degree  of  readiness  aqid  jnteyigence  that  evidently 
Proved  it  was  by  no  meana  a  hew  business  to  him. 
In  order  to  acquire  the  best  information  he  could 
'communicate)  I  assured  him,  if  I  found  his  account 
covrect)  that  I  would  either  relum  myself)  or  send 
•them  to  them>  iftfith  ^aiUch  articles  >»the|  appeared 
to(;,^|^ti  |»a^cu1iMrl!r:^  ft  and  ammunnion,  with 
which"  tlwy  wo«id  be^  a^  onemies 

from  tuTading  them.  I  obtained,  hoW<^fir» j(io  ^ddi- 
•tion  to  what  I  already  knew»  but  that  the  country 
below^t^  ashlar  as  he  was  acquainted  with, it,  afbound> 
cdihi^iiiald^and^  that  the  river  produced  plenty  of 

Esh*-^  i"."?'rtijjel  y=n..    'l.v*A'*-  -f^ir-i    r-'-  .-'  ■■        ■  ■jm-'':i     .        .    •■ 

<  Oir  cfai^oe  was  now  become  so  weak,  leaky,  and  un« 
miaAag^tible,  that  it  became  a  matter  of  absolute  ne^ 
cesi^yWiee^^tfHict-  a  new  one  j  and  I  bad  been  in- 
form<$dj  thM:if>j7e  delayed  that  important  work  tiilwe 
l^t'ftti^lier  ^doim  die  riter,  we  should  not  be  able  to 
procure  bark.  I  therefore  dispatched  two  of  my  people 
with  luflndiait)  in  search  of  that  necessary  materiaU 
The '#eiLthaf9'^as«6^  cloudy  that  I  couid  not  get  an  ok* 
vervattim** 

*  Tlk9  olMnrvMiM  Mjfmj  meaOoatit  (  iot  os  mr  Ktum 


■^■. 


North^Wesi  Omtment  of  Amiriea*       aOT 


Ated  M 

irged  in 
ig  J  ttsd 
;  in  com'* 
•mf  stajr 
I'Wig^ 
)ttag<  tiie 
th«^po<»- 

hd  g«i«- 

.lifg&d  to 
littuT^Md. 

labled  to 
i«t'  ^ith  a 
evidently 
i^to  him* 
he   could 
B  accouhtl 
')  or  send 
'^ppetored 
ti<«»  vrith 
r  onemies 
^  K^offtddi- 
e  country 
t,  jfbound- 
iplenty  of 

y,  andun-^ 
►solute  ne* 
Ibecn  in- 
ork  till  we 
be  able  to 
lay  people 
-materiaU 
get  an  ok* 


r  I  pasted  the  rest  of  the  day  inconveiyiing  withthee^ 
people  ;  they  consisted  of  seven  families,  contaiiungf 
eighteen  men.;  toy  were  clad  iic  leather,  AndhiS 
some  hearer  and  rabbit^in  blankets/^  Tl|ey  had  not 
been  k>&g>  itrrived  iiVithin.  piURt  .of  the  €Ountr|!^  ^'^^^ 
they  propeai4  f40  fMts»  ithe  ^iM^mcr,  ta,cal)ch^sb>  ,wr 
thdr .  winter  pii0«iiM>i|  y-  fert  ^hifh  iP^l^ppse  v  thcyv  w^re 
prop^cifig;  HMiihines.s^«|^|^ito)rt«^,jfi|ichji^  foi;^m 
the.  fif»ttln4iai^4)ai^^  .Wfii^AwrafidifHscfibedi  .  The  fish 
whieh ihe|K iliake  i)i4Jbi(iii>«rie  largf^  a^  Q«|lyf?i#ii  t^f 
pant  oi  jtjh^  »ilKer  .«!  ?«rttW»rv7^»»on|i,^  ^J^Jea^jp!^^ 
differ  veryf  liltkb  iS#^i4|)  iH^|^ra%  their  ap(«aninpQ, 
langt^^  or  mai|n«fjf|«  ffpsf^^  ^iiockyy^p^mi^nJn' 
ditM^Hi  W^tiafin^vfi!fffik<l  spii^i^  seiM^^of  ^r^  jf- 
turnodrwith.^  C[ert|H%)qHapiti(^i  <rf  j^u  bl^fijIi^^^qTr/Tin- 
diffiereolikiMv'o  W©^»erfi#p^  grafted  jtat^lkjie  arriy- 
al  of:;ikny  oivthenative*^  ]|!l)i9i»,v¥n%ffi^(^tlod  Ait»%« 
iowcr  part.of  the  wejr*:v.  «,<,{  t| ,n<j,.->^  -j^  '■ 


■  rr 


.li;-.. 


latt  of 


CITAPTElt  VIK. 

Icneir  our  W]||««v  i^^mtMyM'bj'  t#o  «tf  tiw  iitti««.  Mw^tUit^xmeK 
BneF<)«cripnoii  of  fflem,    Aocoant  of  <Mir  confeMnce  wM^iMM&»  iMi  Mm 

eve  of  dw  country.   The  narrative  of  a  female  pfWiMci-.  ~i 
f  tititatiol^  H^eahseik  oTlhe  ttengqw^iof  *ro jWim*/  Q)>«|f«     _. 
m  journey. .  Rftaro  mp. jtlw  nver.   Sucoenion  of  Mmn-  Md  fhfionltln. 
Uuidda aaiyUmIt(A»lUaii»lher^noc.        ^•;-^:3/0  'TrniJ^r  ,      i   ^ 

SoMrii^fs.l^^'r  "stx  in  the  monrmtig  wev;piWMCjQeded.<ia 
our  ToyAge»  with  two  of  the  IndiitfiSv  onei^f  th<qp%|ip  jt 
small)  pointed  canoe,  made  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Esquimaux,  and  the  other  in  our  o^o  l^'i  precau- 
tion wiM. necessary  in  k  two*fo)d  poiiiti of  iriew^, i^itl^e 
small  canoe  could  be  sent  arhead  |o  apeakjio' f^iy  ^^iT 
the  natives  that  might  be  seen  down  tb^^riyeciyva^ 
thus  divided)  would  not  be  easy  for  theip  botb  t9/mftke 
theik'  escape.  Mr*  Madcay  also  einbarke^i  with,^it^e 
Indian,  which  seemed  to  i^fford  him  great  si^s|^9t)pp, 
und  he  was  thereby  enabled  to  keep  ^s  comj^aoy  jvtth 
diminution  of  labor.  «      \  >  .-^r    -? 

Our  courses  was  «outh-sottth<^cast  a  mile  and  a  han^ 


•mmum 


•*•• 


908         youmal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

south-east  half  a  mile)  south  bj  east  four  miles  and  an 
half^  south-east  by  south  half  a  mtle^  south  by  west 
half  a  mile,  southteast  by  east  one  mile^  south-south- 
west a  mile  and  an  half)  south  by  east  one  mile  and  a 
quarter.  The  country,  on  the  right,  pretfented  a  very 
be&uttful  8j)pjarant6  r  it  rosie'at^rst^ther  abruptly 
to  the  height  of  tWentyvfi Ve^  ^t,  •  ifrhen  the  jireci^ce 
was  sucoeeckd-'by,  iih  hiclin4d't>l«ilV%o  the^ibot  df  4ii6^ 
ther  st^p ;  Whieh  *vm  followed  by  anothteli^  eieteM  of 
gentiv  rising  ground  i  •"  theste-  ^bjlsdts,  -  Wfcrith  '  Wcire . 
shaded  with  groires  6f  €ry'preseritin^'?th'cthselVes:  al- 
ternately to  a  cohMderablfe'  distanc«i^  <''  f 

We  now  landed  neai^^^fiin  houses  the  roof  i^  which 
alone  appeared  above  gromifd  ;  but  it  W^s  d^6rted  by 
its  inhabitants  who  had  been^t^med'at  ouf  approadbi 
We  observied  several  men  in  the  seednid  'steep,  who 
displayed  the  same*  postures,  and  menacing'  ac&eiis 
as  those  which  we  have  so  lately  described.  Our 
conductors  went  to  them  immediately  on  an  embassy 
of  friendship,  and,  after  a  Very  vociferous  discdursef 
one  of  them  was  persuaded  to  com^  to  us,  but  pre- 
sented a  very  ferbcious'^  asp'^ct :  the  rest,  who  were 
seven  in  number,  soon  followed  his  example*  TJsey 
held  their  bows  and  arrows  in  their  hands,  and  ap- 
peared in  their  garments,  which  were  fastened  round 
the  fneck,  but  left  the  right  arm  free  for  action.  A 
cord  fastened  a  blanket,  or  leather  covering  under  the 
right  arm-pit)  so  that  it  hung  upon  the  lelt  shoulder^ 
^nd  -might  be  occasionally  employed  as  a  target,  that 
would  turn  an  arrow  which  was  nearly  spent.  As  soon  as 
they  hadjrecovered  from  their  apprehensions)  ten  wo- 
men made  their  appearance,  but  without  any  children^ 
whonl^  I  imagine,  they  had  sent  to  a  greater  distance, 
to  be  out  of  reach  of  all  possible  danger.  I  distributed 
a  few  prosents  among  them,  and  left  my  guides  to  ex-^ 
plain  to  them  the  object  of  my  journey,  and  tiie 
friendliness  of  my  designs,  with  which  they  had 
themselves  been  made  acquainted  ;  their  fears  being^ 
at  length  removed,  I  gave  them  a  specimen  of  the 
use  to  which  we  applied  our  fire-arms :  ai  the  same 
time;  I  calmed  their  astonishmenti  by  the  assurance, 


^rthWeat  Continent  of  America*        99/^ 


es  and  an 

by  west 

Lth'BOUth- 

lile  and  a 

ed  a  very 

abruptly 

preci^ce 

eiftteMbf 

ith  *  W^WJ 
selves:  al- 

<)lf  which 
ssesrted  by 
appvoadh^ 
,teep,  whp 
ig'  acdons 
^d.    Our 
[I  embassy 
dTiscOurser 
5,  but  pre* 
who  were 
U.     They 
and  ap- 
:ned  i!ound 
LCtion.     A 
und«F  the 
shoulder, 
arget,  that 
As  soon  as 
IS,  ten  wo- 
f  children, 
distance, 
iistributed 
ides  to  ex- 
,  and   the 
they    had 
ears  being' 
cien  of  the 
,  the  same 
assurance) 


ilat,  though  we  could  at  once  destroy  those  who  did  > 
us  injury,  we  could  equally  protect  tiiose  who  shew- 
ed us  kindness*    Our  stay  here  dad  not  exceed  half 
an  hour,  and  we  left  these  people  v/ith  fovorafale  im- 
pressions of  us.      ;  . .,  ' 

•  Frona  this  place .irei -ste^sed  east  by  north  half  a 
mi|e>  iM»«th  by  east  thre^  •qnaft^r  pf  a  F^iie,  and 
south  f>y,  weslia .  i^iJ^B/aii^^li^  ih^fi  wh^o  iwis.  landed 
agai)i»'}Oj|fi  senriiig;  sp^e  ^pf  <  ^he  iiatlvea  on .  the>  h'^h 
gi!auad,rwbose  !.f^pearaQcen^a»  mo^f  wilfi  and,leto- 
ciou%^han *»y *wfic?ii^^^ l^d/yietseen,  ■  .indeed  1  was 
under  some  appreheiiWNaith^iourgiiidesb^ho  VAnt 
to  conciliate  „tkeni)tg .us,  .wp^Id  ,haMc  hlW^ »  prey   to 
their,  ofl^rage  ,^ii7f  r  At ;  Ici^ht  however,  they  were 
per^Uf^^ed  tff-  entertain  a.  mere, iffiy/orable  apAAioa  of  us, 
and  they  appirpache^j  u§  o^e  after  an(»ther«  to  the 
nuffiiiber  of  sixteen  m^,  ^^14/ several;  %iriaB)enr  I  fhocdt 
hands  ii^^i^i«iiaf|ls^;«n4d«iMr6d  my-iMerprete^ 
explain;  that  satutaUon  SiS  a  toheQ j  of  fnend^ip*    As 
this  was  not  a  place  wliere  we  could  remain  with  the 
necessary  convemence,  I  proposed  to  proceed  fur- 
ther, in  search  of  a  more  commodious  spot.    They 
hnmediately  invited)  us   to  pass  th^   nighl  at  Uieir 
lodges,,  which  wefe  at  <  no  great  d^tanee,  and  pro- 
mised)  afctthe  same  timey  that  they  WQt|ld»  im  <^ 
mormngi  ^send  two^meii'  to  intro^uoe'us  ti^  ,thei«|i^ 
nationv  -  who  were  very  numerous^  and  ill^sposei  to- 
wards strangers*    As  we  were  pushing,  from  -the 
shore,,  we  were  very  *a«eh  surprised  at  liearing  a 
woman  pronounce  several  words  in  the  Unisteneaux 
language.    She  proved  to  be  a  fitocky-Mountain  na- 
tive, so  that  my  interpreters  perfec<iy  understood  her* 
She  infprmed  us  that  her  country  is  at  -  the  forHs  lof 
this  nver,  and  that  she  had  been  takei^  prispnerby 
the '  Knisteneaux,  who   had  carried  her  acrPijfi^e 
mountains.     After  having  passed  the  greatest  part  ni 
the  summer  with  them,  she  had  contrived  to  escape, 
before  they  had  reacned  their  p\m  country,  and  'had 
re-crossed  the  mountains,  when  she  expected  to ,  meet 
her  own  friends  ;  but  after  suffering    all  the  hard* 
ships  incident  to  such  a  jonmef:>  she  had  been  tpl^eit 


SIQ  Journtttofa  V§yage  through  thr 

by  a  war-party  of  the  people  with  whomishe  then  wasy 
who  had  driven  her  relations  from  the  siver  into  th« 
mountains.  She  had  since  been  detained  by  her  pre* 
sent  husband)  of  whom  she  had  no  cause  to  complains 
nevertheless  she  expressed  a  strong  desire  to  return 
to  her  own  people.  I  presented  her  with  se,verai 
useful  ^licleS)  and  desired  her  to  comedo  me  atth« 
lodges,  which  she  '  read%  engag«^d  to  do.  "^e  ar- 
rived tMiher  before  the  Indians^  ah^  .landed,  ,ai>,)w<t 
had  pixin^ised.  It  was  now  ne,||r  tweiye  at  no9n,  but 
on  attenl^tin^'to  take  aA  altitude  I  fojopd  theuigle. 
toojCTfcatTor  m^  jsextant.  ^  .  *  r  1  v  -b^  * 
The  natives  whom  We  ha^  already,  scejpi,  and,  sey^n 
ral  6thers,;,  soipn  joined  us,  witli  a  greater  number  of 
womidnthan,!  had  yet  seehi  b^t  I  did  not,  observe 
the  fem^^  prisoner  .^moiig  |beix|«  73?^^  w^re  jthic- 
ty-five^f  them,  and  my  remiyinipg  j^pe  o^preisentft 
was  not  suMcl'ent  to  enabiie  n^ie  ipj.^jVery  liberal  tq 
so  manV^i^^E|i^ts*^v  A  the  ip^irl  fotifi{?l four  ol 

'  the'liSjqltmi^liation,  and  a  ^Qcky-l^ountiun  Indian^ 
who  had  be0n  Mfitji,  tb^np^Jfoi:  sonxe.  iim^*    As  he  wat 
understood  by  my  interpreters,  apd  was  himself  wellr 
acquainted  with  the  languaj^e  of  the  strangers,!  poa- 
seseed  the  means  of  obtainmg  every  inibrniation  re-; 
specting  the  country,  which  it  might  be  in  their  pow- 
er to  afford  m^.     For  this  purpose   }  selected 'an  el- 
derly, man,  froiii  the'  four  strangers,  whose   counte- 
nance had  pre|>ossessed  me  in  his  fay  or.    I  stated  to. 
these  people,  as  tbaid  already  ^one  to  those  from/ 
whom  1  had  hitherto  derived  informatipn,  the  objects 
of  my  voyage,  and  the  very  great  advantages  which: 
they  wbuljd  receive  from  my  successful  termination  of » 
it.     They'  expressed  themselves  very  much  satisfied 
at  my  comraui^ication,  and  assured  me  that  they  would 
not  deCeiv(6iii6'  respecting  the  subject  of  my  inquiry. 
An  old  i/na|i  al^6,  who  appeared  to  possess  the  charac- 
ter of  a  chiefj  declared  hi^  wish  to  see  me  retijrn  tohis 

)  Iand,'and  that  his  tSvo  young  daughters  should  ^hen  be 
at  my  disposal.  1  now  proceeded  to  request  the  native, 
whom  I  had  particularly  selected,  to  commence  his 
Information,  by  drawing  a  sketch  of  the  country  upon- 


then  wai^ 
r  into  th« 

her  pre- 
omplain» 
to  return 
h  several 
[Qe  at  th« 

^  A/^e  .a.r-- 

no9^,  bui' 
the  angle. 

'*  * ' 

and  sev^r- 
number  of 
tfei.,f|baerve 
\i^^re  ,tl>ii;«. 
i>|prQsent» 
^  lU^eral  t<^  ^ 

atpafour  ol 

Mn  Indian^ 
As  he  was 
imsclf  wellr 
;er»,  I  po»- 
tnation  re» 
their  por- 
ted'an  el-: 
counte- 
I  stated  to. 
iCMse  fron\> 
e  objects 
,g^s  whicU; 
inationofv 
satisfied 
they  would 
ly  inquiry, 
he  charac- 
ti^rn  to  bis 
lid  then  be 
the  native, 
iinence  his 
luntry  upon- 


iforihWeat  Continent  of  America*        5tt 

a  large  piece  of  bark,  and  he  immediately  entered  oti 
the  work,  frequently  appealing  tq,  and  sometimes  ask* 
ing  the  advice  of,  those  around  him.  He  described 
the  riter  as  running  to  the  east  of  south,  receiving 
many  rivers,  and  every  six  or  eight  leagues  encum- 
•beitd  Wittt  falU  and"  rapids^' some  of  ^hich  were  very 
dangerotis,  iind  six  of  theni  imjpracti^able.  The  car- 
ryih^-jj/lac^li  h^  represenied  as  of  great  length,  ^d 
p^si=ngt'oV«!f  hills' and  fountains.  He  depicted  the 
lands  bf  three  othisr  tHb'esJ  i?i  succession,  Who  spoke 
different  latvi^aires.  Beybhd  them  he  knew  notjiing 
either  of  the  river  pr  country,  only  that  it  was  still  a 
Jong  way'tb  the'  seal  knd  that,  as  he  heard,  there  was  a 
lake^lsefbre  thty  reached  the  water,  whicn  the  natives 
did  not  'drink.  As  far  as  his  knowledge  of  the  river  ex- 
tendidd'tbe  country  on  the  either  side  was  level,  in 
m^ny'pUfces  without  W66d,  and  abouhding  in  red  deer* 
and  some  of  a  ^mall  fkllow  kind.  Few  of  the  natives) 
he  saidj  would  come  to  the  banks  for  some  time  ;  but 
that  at  a  certain  season  they  "would  arrive  there  in  greiat' 
numbers,  to  fish.  They  now  procured  iron,  brass,  cop- 
per, and  trinkets,  frdim  the  westward ;  but  formerly 
these  articles  were  obtained  from  the  lower  parts 
of  the  river,  though  in  small  quantities.  A  knife 
was  produced  which  had  been  brought  from  that  quar- 
ter. The  blade  was  ten  inches  long,  and  an  inch  and 
an  hidf  broad,  but  with  a  very  blunted  edge.  The 
handle  waS  of  hOrrt.  We  understood  that  this  instril*^ 
ment  had  been  obtained  from  white  men,  long  before 
they  had  heard  that  any  came  to  the  westward.  One 
very  old  man  observed,  that  as  long  as  he  could  re- 
member, he  was  told  of  white  people  to  the  southward; 
and  that  he  had  heard,  though  he  did  not  vouch  for 
the  truth  of  the  report,  that  one  of  them  had  made  an 
attempt  to  come  up  the  river,  and  was  destroyed* ;  , , 
These  people  describe  the  distance  across  the  coun- 
try as  very  short  to  the  western  ocean  ;  and  accor^r 
ing  to  my  own  idea,  it  cannot  be  above  five  or  six 
degrees.  If  the  assertion  of  Mr.  Mears  be  Cirtnect, 
it  cannot  be  so  far,  as  the  inland  sea  which  he  men- 
tions within  Nootka,    must  come  as  far  east  as  \%f^ 


wkp 


^li|G;««4tf  ,Ml^7  ftvfli4ed  the  mounoatiM,  keepiR|  along 
.|j|«tlMFhuvlt  between  Jihe«H  many  ^TtB'dfvrlitfih  Art 
-i^iffk '^9  fremr^Kwdf .^  Atsording  to  tbeiv  tdcouat) 
'^^>>|«]i^^  «o  oilcn  tiiivelled  b^jr  thetti^-tbniMllMtPfVtli 
lit ,f49^«^iliroiiehouti  tbc  vhoU'  JAQBiNry^-^tikb  4lct 

i^M^i^^mmi  Hllk«  »ixtJiigbtii4»<tel«Oi«liK>#lf0re  they 
inctJt  t>he  people  who  bcirteriroRi  braaf^6(ip(Mrr,  beads, 

fe^\ft^  t^oh  ^  ^9H%cAl\^mm^itnA  kwtkvy  beai*, 
li  ,^B»,   tt|i4  mmXvu^Hmfhio  3>he6SMM  *»  about 
f  ^l|h^;9^wijE|i^i0f  t^Nfo^l^  give 

JWN?J^#*  ^BB  ei^rand^ilBJi^  Itld^^i^lifinMc  «r  right 
^fd(#r.i^h^hi^0y  Cii(»pjf)^v;aa''a^  ^h«ii  thd 

Jffi^i^  f^r%^oj[|Fiii3lhe>iAtbmattritor  iiitloi pointa  -fo^ 
|^i)|.f|r49)K%j^9p^^9«  i>9e&db  ,4h«Bfrvtti*ed  iron 
A*iefw4«j5H»*^b«fi«i^  ii9r»%iitl|c«eJ»p<*po8C8* 
3f|if  pppiiec  a|p4b«ii9».li»r  tottfidit  hiiltoiooQKn^iann* 

j^e|  .aj»o>  iKMpt  <li^r  «i!mcH^^ 
^acl.befii^  jtiSofVapii^  ^^li^tottt'^vikitii^tliey '^eettw  trade 
yr^^]j|^,t|i^t  ihf0  while  Jh9«iik;|from'wh*mtheic  icicles 
^  :^tei|)CK^  were'biit^ltUng  faiouiseft  at  th^  dMflUioe 
^e)^dayi^,pft^p9igjh!^jfli^hoy  !fi»ntheplitcii^ 
fes^ifj[^(i  l^^jfillti  r^Jthfikb  ippin»tjieyi4ai  Apip*w.<^* 

d^i>^^]*^^^ilc%Vf  !^  tliat^hey  WMild«ittd  fovtbi  ftiUald 
|)^oi|)f^/»y)|)09i  |>|fkw  yje»tenla]^%iiti  £  t^ceived^lMi^ 
y^vkf  ^tc3(mYPJ»9WerA':  thtyiprobabili^lt^Nlheit^^ 
il^^th^i  iXwm  pur  dea^  to  talie  her  fMiA^Us^tHH  t 
^fUFt  Jb^VKey^Ti!  very  nwcb  disappointeda^'being  pr6<^ 
Yf)9^],iroixir  )iaving/^«n  ititernew  with' her^  t&  sM 
Vf^ifl^tii^yp  glvenmera oocreet ocectunt  bf  HM' ootliitry 
j^^ffjd  ^t^Q  r  forlfcf  qC  the  river,  at  wctt  w^oi  the  paib)' 
l^roju^lfl^  ?i>ou|»taiuf)  fi-ora  them,  f^^"^^  -^  ' 
^  )}i^y^  people  had  listened  vrith  great  afttentidn  to  Che 
B^t^ofi  whiich  had  been  given  me,  and  it  seemed  W 
l^e  ;tbeir  Qpinioni  that  it  would  be  absolute  madness  tO' 
4tJtesint)t  a,  passage  thuougk  so  many  savage  and  bar-' 
l^ouB  nations^  ^y  situation  may,  indeed,i  bis '  more 
«^y  Qoi^aeiy^ed  j^an  espBcaaod  si  had  ^no'  ibbre  thaar 


u 


Morth'Weit  Contineni  of  America,        S13 


Itic  along 
)  afjcouAtf 

Here  tUey 
^gfy  beads* 
Bttef»befti*» 
,  «a  about 

IB  «b  right 
jfiuitd  iron 

Ft»e$^»80iro©- 

tectt*  trade 
lesoatticies 

^j^oottiitry 
of  thepaWy 

jtrtibnto^* 
seemed  ttf 
madness  to 
[age  and  bar-" 
tdji  bU'  iflore 
10  ittore  th^ 


thirty  dayv  provUion  remaining,  exclnsire  of  8U<ih 
•uppliea  as  I  might  obtain  from  the  natives,  and  the 
toil  of  our  hunters,  which,  howerer,  was  so  prebaHous 
as  to  be  a  matter  of  little  dependence  ;  besidMj  our 
ammunition  would'  spon  be  exhausted,  partlicularly 
t>ur  ball,  of  which  we* had  not  mdrethan  an  hundred 
^nd  .fifty,  and  about  thirty  pounds  w«i^Ht  of  shoti 
which,  indeed,  might  be^onvcrtcd  hito  buHett^^hdibgfa 
with  great  wastes  '    .  «       '     't  ' 

The  mor^  liieard  of «ihe  rivei*,  tl^e  more  I  #is  con- 
vinced it  cpidd  not  empty*  itselfinto  the  oceab  to  the 
iiorth^of  what  is  called  the  'Riret  of  the  West,  io  tliat 
with  it^  Hidings  J  the  distance  must  be  irei^  great* 
Such  being  the  disouraging  circuitistances  of  Day  si* 
tuation>  which  were  now 'heightened  by  the  dhKHHi- 
tents  of  myipepple,  i  'cbdld  not^t  be  alailned  iM^  the 
Idea  of  attempting'^to  get  to  the^dlscharge  of  suJch  a 
rapid,  especially  When  I  reflected  on  the  tardy  pro- 
gress of  my  retun»  up  it^  eveii  if  I  should  meet  witii 
no  obstruction  froi^  the  natives  i  a  eircumstSnce  not 
very  probable,  from  the  numbers  of  them  which  would 
then  be  on  the  river ;  and  whom  I  could  have  n.a  op- 
portunity of  conciliating  in  my  passage  down,  for  the 
reasons  which  hare  been  already  mentioned.    At  all 
events,  I  must  give  :up  every  expectation x>f  retiirhing 
this  season  to  Athabasca.    Such'  were  toy  reflections 
At  this  period  ;   but  instead  of  doutinuing^  to  Indulge 
them,  I  determined  to  prOceed  with  resblutibnf,  al^ 
set  future  events  at  defiance.  At  the  same  time  I  suf- 
fered myself  to  nourish  the  hope  thit  1  might  be  ablfr 
to  penetrate  with  more  safety,  and  in  a  shorter  period, 
to  the  ocean  fby  the  inland,  westetih  communication*^ 

To  carry  this  project  into  execution  I  must  hkvc 
returned  a  considerable  distance  up  the  rit^,  "Which 
would  necessarily  be  attended  wi<9i  arery  seribo^  iii- 
converience,  if  I  passed  over  every  other;  as  m  a 
voyage  of  this  kind,  a  retron^ade  motion  could  hot 
fail  to  cool  the  aixlor,  slacken  the  seal,  and  weiedcen 
the  confidence  of  those,  who  have  no  greater  induce- 
ment m  the  undertaking,  than  to  fiaUov  the  conductor 
of  it.    Such  was  the  state  of .  my  mind  at  this  period!^ 

Dd 


114       .^mrMlijfu  rffimge  threii^t^^^lft^ 

Illk4r  such  the  circurnstAncts  by  which  .U  wat  dUtres- 
»«d  and  difttraiQted. 

:, .,  To  the  people  who  had  given  me  the  foregoing  in- 
yfOFmation,  I  preheated  sonae  b^ad*,  which  they  pre- 
icrred  to  any  other  articles  in  my  pot^esBion,  and  I 
ir«^*Tipen8ed  in  t]ie  same  mapner  two  of  them  who 
jct^munnnicated  to  joi^  t^e  following  vocabulary  In  the 
.|M\§^*gf»  oCtjte  JSfaga^ler  j^nd  Atnah  tribe*. ^y^'  '^'*:' 


Wa.*'''  on/i  ,oj.c  'gjMn»,M,w J  :,<:,«,.   gtej  j,^..,^.  )^fj 


I'onguef 


Etr, 


'^    -^  *-—  3^¥n»>i.    ,      ^  '  I    $quatquai». 


„4a, 

Kettai|l7« 


-,»-3L 


lottghbudt 


iitheboincBb. 
Isbquoinab. 

Amaig. 

ThU-«Jy«Jj. 


Thr  Atnak  language  has  np.  afiinity  to  aay  with 
^htch  1  aiti' acquainted  ;  buttle  Nagailer differs  very 
kittle  f^pm  that  8t¥>lien  by  the  Beaver  Indians,*  and  is 
-  Silnliost  the  some  as  that  of  the  Chepewyans.*.,,^   ;,, . 
L'.  r  We  had  &  thunder  storm  with  heavy  rain;  and  in 
-the  evemng  yrk^k  it  had  subsided)  the  Indians  amused 
ua.il^ithsiaging  md  dancing}  in  which  they  were  join- 
^'^ridiobjFthe^oung  women.    Four  men  now  arrivj^d) 
whom  we  had.  not!  yet  see^  ;  tbey  had  left  their  fami- 
'*■  ikes:  at^  jKiBte  distance  in  the  country,  and  expressed  a 
'  Htesire  tiiial^ire  should  visit  them  there. 
ic  Sunday  Qdf    After  a  restless  night,  I  called  the  Indi- 
ums togetbsr,  firom  whom  I  yesterday  received  thq  intel- 
:ligefice  i^hich  had  been  already  mentioned,  in  the  hope 
vtfa«tlmlght  obtain  some  additional  information*  From 
^'.KktGisiSonA^t  account  they  did  not  make  the  least  de- 
viotiaoiiL  ibttt' ^X  inlbnaed  me  further,  that  where 


igoing  i«»- 
thcy  pre- 
lon,  and  I 
hem  who 
lary  In  the 

4_fi   !>>:?'■ 

-{l     .ltd 
{[no 

loih. 


!b. 

to  ftuy  with 
differs  very 
ianf,  andis 

rain*,  and  in 
iana  amused 
_y  werejoin- 
Qow  arriv/ftd, 
t  their  fami- 
expressed  a 

tllcdtheXndi- 
ivedth^intel- 
•djinthehope 
(lation.  From 
the  least  de- 
•,  that  vrhere 


39brth'Wiest  Continent  )^^)iiklffi^.       til 

they  kf^  this  river,  a  smati  one  from  tlie  westwlird 
CallH  into  it,  whi<;h  was  navigable  for  their  canoetdlfk^ 
xDf;  four  days,  and  from  thfiice  they  slept  brut  two 
nig'hts,  to  get  to  the  people  vitK  whom  they  trade,^ait^ 
who  have  wooden  canoes  m'uch  larger  than  ours,  ih 
whi^ii  they  go  down  a  river  tb  the  sea.  1  hey  Conti- 
nued to  ihfoi^tti  me,  that  if  f  wetrt'that  way,  We  mwtt^ 
leave  our  ow"!*  c^iioi^  behind  iis  J  but  th^y  th^g^tH 
probable  that  Uiibse  people Sv^^^  ^imish  us  with  ano- 
ther. From  thence  they  stat^  ,khe  di&tance  to  ^Iw 
only  one  day's- voyage  with  the  current  tothelASb^ 
whose  water  i»  fiaubeous,  and  wjiere  they  had  h^i^lti 
that  great  canoi^  came  two  winters  ago,  and  thai  llM 
people  beloo^iltg  to  them,  bro^a^  great  quantiti^a  <if 
goods  and  bufh  houses.  '*\"M  '^'*!«r 


At  th£  commencement  of  t)j(i>  Conversation,  If 
very  muci;i,  SUtrp^ized  by  the  fpHowing  questiod^ 
one  of  the  Indft(ns :  <«  What,V  demanded  he,  <Vcih 
**  be  the  reason^  that  you  ar«  s^  jparticular  iftid  itk^ 
**  ous  in  your  liiquires  of  us  res^^^ing  a  knowlec^ 
•*  of  this  country  :  do  not  you  wh^te  men  know  eveiy 
"  thing  in  th<^  world?"  TWa  interrogatory,  ly^ 
so  very  unekpebted,  that  it  occa^oned  some  hesltl^ 
tion  before  T  Could  answer  it.  At  length,  how«>TeaS'i 
replied)  thatiVc^  cert&inly  w^re  «€qli;dnted  witH  the 
pHnbipal  cirttjmstan^e^  of  every  part  of  the  Iroiflii  | 
that  Ikhew  ifh6tt  the  sea  is,  and  wheiis  1  myself  th^n 
was,  but  that  I  did  not  dxactlyimdersiaml  what  okrttft'* 
oles  might  interrupt  me  in  gettifvg  to  it,  with  Which 
he  and  his  relations  must  be  \^ell  acc^uatQited,  as  they 
had  so  frequently  surmounted  tliem.  Thus  I  icatu- 
nately  preserved  the  impression  in  their  miiids^bfclhe 
superiority  of  white  people  ov6t  themselvesy  .mmiw 

It  was  now,  however,  absolulely  liecesssry  tiiaf  I 
should  come  to  a  final  determination  whici^  roots^ito 
take  ;  and  no  long  interval  of  reflection  \?fts  em^^Ioy- 
cd,  before  t-  preferred  to  go  over  land :  th<e  c^imfiara* 
tive  shortness  and  security  of  sueha  joiimey,  nytfre 
alone  sufficient  to  determine  me.  i  accordingly  pro.^ 
posed  to  two  of  the  Indians  to  accompM^y  me^  lAid 
one  oi  them  readily  assented  to  my  p^poidtion*   > 


>xf 


3td         y^umal^a  Vo^ge  through  thtt 

I  now  called  those  of  my  people  about  roe,  who  had 
no(  been  present  at  my  consuLtatiMi  with  the  natives  f 
and  after  passing  a  warm  eulogium  on  their  fortitude^ 
patience,  and  peraeverancc)  I  stated  the  diflicultiea 
^at  threatened  our  coailDuing  to  nai^igate  the  rivert 
the  length  of  time  it  i^ould  require*  awl  the  scanty 
pcovitdonwe!  had  ft>r  such  a  voyage  :Jthea'procead<» 
fid  for  the  foregouag  rcasooftito^propoivea^' shorter 
noute,  hy  trying  the  ovfir-land  road  .toithe  sea.  ^t 
the  same  time,  as  I  knew  firont  expOrioiK:;e»  and  dif*> 
ficulty  of  retaining  gaidt^tand  as  manycircumstatfces 
migUt  occur  to  pri^fe^t  our  progress  in  that  directioD, 
}  declared  my  resolution  not  to  attempt  it,  unless  they 
^Quld  engage,  if  we  could  not,  after  all  ;prDceed  over 
land,  to  r«tum  with  me^  and  continue  oar  i  voyage  to 
t^e  discharge  of  the  waterst  iwbaitieMer  the  distance 
might  be.  At  all  events,,  I  declared,  in  the  most  so«- 
kom  manner,  that  X  would  not  abandon  my  design 
of  reaching  the  sea^if  I  made  the  attemptalone,  and  that 
I4kl  notd«»pair  of  returning  in  safety  to  my  fiiendsv 

This  .proposition  met  with  the  most  cealous  return^ 
and  they  unanimously  assured  me,  that  they  were  as 
willing  now  as  they  had  ever  been,  to  abide  by  my  re* 
folutiomiip whatever  they. might  be,  and  to  follow  me 
wjiifrever  X  should  go.  I  therefore  requested  themtd 
pi^epaiie  for, an  immediate  departure,  and  at  tibd  same 
tiin^  gave  notice  to  the  man  who  had  engaged  to  be  our 
gU^de,  to  be  in  readiness  to  accompany  us.  When 
our  determination  to  retuun  up  the  river  waii  made 
liQown,  several  of  the  natives  took  a  very  abrupt  de- 
parture ;  but  to  those  who  remained,  I  gave  a  few 
us«^l  articles,  e^i^plaining  to  them  at  the  aame  time, 
tlie  advantages  that  would  result  to  them,  if  their 
iwlations  conducted  me  to  the  sea,  along  such  a  road 
aiS  they  had  described*  I  had  already  given  a  moose 
b^in  to  some  of  the  women  for  the  purpose  of  making 
^Mnes,  which  were  now  brought  us ;  they  were  weU 
8«wed.but  ill  shaped,  and  a  few  beads,  were  consider- 
ed as  %  suflicient  remuneration  for  the  skill  employed 
ou  them.  Mr.  Mackay,  by  my  desire,  engraved  my 
name^  and  the  date  of  the  year  on  a  tr<e. 


» ' 

i 

6,  who  ha* 
le  natives  ^ 
r  fortitude^ 
difiicultiea 
the  river» 
L the scanty 
tx, '  peocead-* 
rat'  shorter 
le  sea*    -At 
Xt  and  dlf*- 
cumstaitces 
nt  directkioi 
,  unless  they 
rDCAcd  over 
rh  voyage  to 
he   distaDce 
he  most  so*- 
I  my  design 
3ne)  and  that 
my  friends'i 
klous  return^ 
hey  were  as 
dc  by  my  re* 
follow  me 
attd  them  t6 
at  the  same 
gedtobeour 
us.     When 
er  waii  made 
y  abrupt  de- 
^ave    a  few 
same  time* 
icm>  if  their 
8Uth  a  road 
ven  a  moose 
se  of  making 
y  were  well 
,re  consider- 
ill  employed 
ingraved  mj 


,    /ffwrthfWeat  Continent  of  An^erica*  317 

When  we  w«re  ready  fb  depart,  our  giitde  pvop«i- 
•d,  for  the  sake  of  expedition,  to  go  over  land  to  hie 
kxlge,  that  he  might  gel  there  before  tia,  to  mtike 
soma  necessary  paepArtion  for  his  journey.  I  didtibi 
altogether  relish  hit '^^i|^f' but  wub  d^iged  to  cOrt- 
senfe )  1  thoaght  it  prtidetif)  hlowef>6ii,  't6  send  M.  MMr 
kayvind.and  the-Oe^Indlanralot^  wHh  him.  Oltr 
place^ai  veAdcavoH^,  w«8  thr  sttbtetr&neous  hiratt 
WhidhrwepMsed  y«iit«rdal|$ry^i''^''<  i  ^  f  >«i^>  »'' •  "  ""^ 
>  At  ten  in  the  nMmiA^>W«  t<ttihM9i«d*y  WMf  IPe'ht  tt^  tff% 
currevt  imudi  fastev'thaH)  I  ex^eied  With  such  a  crft- 
eyvtwacAiasnhaitwhkhci^^tMl'  We  mM  our  peo- 
ple at  thehous^  atrhiKi'bc'en'  appGinted  t  but  the  nidt- 
an  stiliroentiiHied  1:6  perfist'  go^g  >>h  by  IMi^i  and  Vt 
would'hare'beenileddlesSfbr  mentor  oppoti^  him;^'  TAk 
[Nvceededj! 'therefore,  With  h)s  fovmif  cotnpahbhs, 
whom  I  desip^«lio  keep  him  hi  good  huihout'^y  titTf 
reasonable  gvatifkationA  They  were  also  Aiirnittl^fd 
vriAh  a  few  articles  that  might  be  of  use  if  they  shoulA 
meet  with  strangers.  ^ ' 'i  ^  ■ 

In  a  short  time  after  W  had  left  the  houscy  I  sawk 
wooden  canoe  coming  down  the  river,  with  three' na- 
tives in  it,  who  as  soon  as  they  perceivcd^s,  madfc 
i^m-  the  ehore,  and  hurried  into  the  woodi^  Oti»  par- 
sing tbdir  vessel,  we  discovered  it  to  be  one  Of  ttokie 
Wihioh  W^  had  se ks^  OL  the  lodges.  A  Severe  gust  of 
wirid,  with  rain,  came  from  the  south-south-'ea^S^ 
This  we  found  ta  be  a  very  preValent  wind  in  these 
parts.  We  soon  passed  another  wooden  canoe  dt^wft 
stern  foremost  on  the  shore;,  a  circumstance  which 
we  hadnot  hitherto  observed.  T-hei  men  worked  v^iry 
hard,  and  though  I  imagined  we  went  a-heaA¥ii*^'fft8t, 
we  cou4d  not  reaoh  the  lodges,  but  liandiftd^'lbr  the 
mght  at  nine,  close  to  the  ^ncatnpment  of  twofl^- 
lies  of  the  natives  whom  we  had  formerly  seen'^^at  tlie 
lodges.  I  immediately  went  and  sat  dowh  With  th6*fi^ 
when  they  gave  some  roasted  fish ;  two  of  hiy  iiieil 
who  ftfllowed  me  were  gratified  alsd  with  %omfe  ot 
theii«  provisions.  The  youngest  of  the  two  nativai 
now  quitted  the  *ed,  'aftd  fTidnot  retuni  during^the 
time  I  remained  there*    I  endeavoned  to  ex^lala  to.  the: 


4iS        .  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


other  by  signs,  the  cause  of  my  sudden  return,  whicb 
he  appeared  to  understand.  In  the  mean  time  my 
tent  was  pitched,  and  on  my  going  to  it,  I  was  rather 
lurprised  that  he  did  not  follow  me,  as  he  had? been 
constantly  with  me  during  the  day  and  night  li  had 
passed  with  his  party  ongoing  down^'^aWe,  li«wever, 
went  to  rest  in  a  state  of  pejrfect  acficuriity  f  ^0r  had  we 
the  least  apprehension  for  the  safety  of  our  people 
Hrho  were  gone  by  land.      ,.     -  -.    f 

Monday  2-4.  We  were  in  Ofuir  canoe  by  four  this 
morning,  and  passed  by  the  Indian  hut,  onrhich  ap- 
peared in  a  state  of  perfect  tranquillity.  .We  soon 
came  in  sight  of  the  point  where  we  firtt  saw>  the  na- 
tives, and  at  eight  were  much  surpviaed'  and  disap- 
pointed at  seeing  Mr.  Mackay,  and  oui'  twio  Indians 
coming  alone  from  the  ruins  of  an  house  that  had 
been  partly  carried  away  by  the  ice  cmd  water,  at  a 
short  distance  below  the  place  Wihere  we  had  appoint- 
ed to  meet*  Nor  was  our  surprise  smd  apprehension 
diminished  by  the  alarm  which  was  painted  in  their 
countenancea^  When  we  had  landed,  they  informed 
me  that  they  had  taken  refuge  in  that  places  with  the 
determinating  to  sell  their  lifes,  which  they  consider- 
ed in  the  ttost  ixnminent  danger,  as  dear  as  possiblev 
In  a;  very  short  time  after  they  had  left  u^,  they  met 
a^  party  of  the  Indians,  whom  we  had  known  at  this 
place,  (\nd  vi^re  probably  those  whom  we  had  seen  to 
land  from  their  canoe.  They  appeared  to  be  in  a  state 
of  eKtremerage,'and  had  their  bows  bent,  with  their 
atrows  across  them.  The  guide  stopped  to  ask  them 
tOine  questions,  which  my  people  did  not  understand, 
%nA  th«n  set  off  with  his  utmost  speed.  Mr.  Mackay, 
ind^eitty  did  not  leave  him  till  they  were  both  exhaust- 
ed 'wlih  tfmning.  When  the  young  man  came  up,  he 
then  Barid)  thatfiiome  treacherous  design  was  meditated 
Itgainst  themv  a^  he  was  induced  to  believe  from  the 
^4)c!arat}on  of  the  natives,  who  told  him  that  they  were 
g0ltig  to  do  mischief,  but  refused  to  name  the  enemy. 
^We  guide  then  conducted  them  through  very  bad  ways, 
9a  iast  as  they  could  run ;  and  when  he  was  desired 
tQ  skck^n  his  pac^  hp;  an&wer^d  thtit  they*  might  Ibl- 


^ 


JS^otithWest  Cmtinent  of  Amefu^a,       51« 


etuni)  which 
in  time  my 
I  was  rather 
he  had)  been 
ni^ht  lihad 
Ko,  iiowever, 
^^(irJMi^  we 
E^eur  people 
^    r    . 
by  four  thi» 
it,  ^hich  ap- 
^.    We  soon 
i  saw  the  na- 
d'and  dlsap- 
v  two  Indians 
»use  that  had 
I  water,  at  a 
I  had  appoint- 
apprehension 
inted  ih  their 
hey  informed 

lacei  with  the 
hey  coflbider- 
r  as  ijossiblev 
u*,  they  met 
tnown  at  this 
e  had  seen  to 
)  be  in  a  state 
nt,  with  their 
\  to  ask  them 
»t  understand, 
Mr.  Mackay, 
both  exhaust- 
ft  came  up,  he 
ivas  meditated 
eve  from  the 
hat  they  were 
e  the  enemy, 
ery  bad  ways, 
was  desired 
ley  might  ibl- 


vtow  -hiffl  in  any  manner  they  pleased,  but  tharlili  w^it^ 

impatient  to  get  to  his  family,  in  order  td  prepare 

shoes,  and  other  necessaries,  for  hir  journey.    They 

kdtd .  riisAs  how^er^ think  it  ptnsdent  to^  '^tiit'  himy  tiDid  Ite 

Iwdufiinot  stbpkvtikKtenmt:pig!hC    On  passing' ^tfiusk 

vthat^woifbuilat^y  ihtide^  they  i^gan^  b^  ^«&rious^r 

-ida^aiied$:and  on^  inquifiikg  of  >  the^'^uide  whtf^e  «key 

iftqnvi  hsf  |)0B^ei|dciddiotiio icmderotand  th0m<^    Th4^ 

then  all  laid  down,  exhausted  with(&tif^,  ^uid  with' 

out  anyt kind  o£ -coKreriiig ::/tkffy 'vWre  cbtd^  wet,  and 

faun|py^vi3i^tidkrcd  not  light  f>.<fit«^  frcpn^he  theap^*6' 

ihensEoilk'of  afiifeim;niyj i  /Fiiis.  ^otifcntltes^pdt they  left 

at' thiitdawa  of  dtqr^ and,i&n 'their  arrifal ^l^4iieiodge«, 

£(nifid  tihem'dcs«irtcd;ihe  property 4^1  ilieladlaM^lieM 

iag favatAered; abbu^  <as  if;abandtoe^ufoi^  e^veib>>  1Fh0 

igulde  then  made  iiwo  or  three  tnpiH«to>^lheiWQOda, 

caHing^UUnidy.andbellowiag  Ipkea  madman*'    Atlen^^ 

he  set  off  in  the  same  disec^oii  a»  theyxame^  tmdliad 

not   since  appeared.  ^.To  heighten  their  naseigr,  ^ 

they  did  not  find  usr  at  the  place  ap^inttdf^^ey  coii^ 

eluded  that  we  Were  all  destroyed,  and  had»lrQady 

formed  their  plan  to  take  to  the  woods,  andtross  in  as 

direct- a  line  lasi-jthoy,  could  procead,  to  theawatenjtf 

the  Peape  River,  a  sdb<»iie(  which  couldctNEily^liei -silg^- 

gested  by  despair*    They  intended  to  iiam  v^attedfiir 

us  till  noon,  and  if  we  did  not  appear  by.jth'^  t^fi,{t9 

have  entered  without  further {ddayiOj^'llMNrldespecaftp 

expedition^    ;:'.S  v  ^ -■  5^>  >f^-l"  .'MiXm  nodn  m'0'\k-\iv\-S. 

This  alarm  among  the  nadves  ^wasftu  vety;  tmejc^ 

pected  as  well  as  perilous  event,  and  my  |)owers;cif 

conjecture  were  exhausted  in  ^searching  ioir  tbe  c^t'so 

of  \u     h  general  panic  seised  all  arouftd  me^.  aiMJl  ^y 

further  prosecution  of  the  voyage  wa9  noW'  co|Miidei^4 

by  them  as  altogether  hopel^sSi  and(impraoti<>ftble% 

But  without  paying  the  least  attention  tpc  their  ^pinifr 

ons  oir  surmises^  I  ordered  them  t0  take  e,very  ,t,hip|g 

out  of  the  canoe?  except  six  packages  :  when>;|thMt 

was  done,  I  left  four  men  to  take,  care  of  the  ladiOg;^ 

and  returned,  with  the  others  to  our  camp,  &%  last' 

night,  where  I  hoped  to  find  the  two  men,  with^  t^oir- 

familifS)  whom,  we  had  seen  thfire>  ^d  t^  bQjk))l!^  W 


r 


'330  ymima^ of  a  Voyage  tkMUgh  the 

bnng^  them  to  lodge  with  us,  -when  I  shossk!  wait  tli« 
iMUe  of  this   xnyiuterious   business.      Tlits  ppojeet, 
however,  was  disappointed,  for  th^se  peiiple'  had  q\ikit- 
ted  their  sheds  ia  the  silence  of  the  might,  <  «imL  had 
not  taken  a  Mngle^  artiole  of  thmii<pi<operty  w^th>tliette; 
These  perfHitxing  circumstaacea  made  a  dsep^  iwi- 
pression  on  my  mind,  not^as  to  our  ammedrate'sajei^, 
for  X  entertained  notth&)e«uitappmh«naiocL  of  thiSiiliW 
diansd  had  hitherto  «een^&ve»if^/ their.;  wholeiifore^ 
should   have  been  combined  ta  attack  us,  but  th<»se 
untoward  events  seemed  to  tibveatlenihe  prodecHtfon 
«>f  my  journey  ;  and  i  coald  not  vefteot  onlhe^  poS^^ 
bility  of  such  a  disappoiiUMient  %iit!  with^  sensations 
Kttle  shott'of  agon^.     WhMevier  tni^titita/ve%e«ii 
the  wavering  disposition  of  the  peof^^oirifopmehoi^ 
ea»ons,  they  were>tiow  dectdeid  in  ttieUr/f^opiniOinfilrt^ 
Ho  the  necessity  of  returning^  loitikontst  ^la^fqinA^ 
ii^en  we  came  back  to^ih^m  their  ory  yiwii^-**^  Im-idi 
^rte^eMbark,  «n  1  be  gone.*^  •  This,  hibw^vev^icwm^^^ 
ikyt  my  desigir,  t^nd  in  a  mo^  |i^t'«mp«isry'Cd»e  tkltik^ 
I  usually  employed,  they  were  ordered  ik^unlotfd^h^ 
canoe,  and  take  her  out  of  the  water.    Oii  exacuhiin^ 
our  property,  several  ardcles  s^ipearcd  to>'be  misi^gff^ 
which  the  Indimns  must  have  pupJ^oSned,  ati^  «t6d!ng> 
them  were  an  axe,  two  knives,  and  theyeun^^mentft/ 
bag  of  medicines.     We  now  took  a  position  thttt^wsf  <» 
th^b^st  calculated  for  defence,  got  our  arms  in  toitt-^' 
plete   order,  filled  each  man^s  flask  of  pe^d^,  ttn4^ 
distributed   an  hundred  bullets,  ^Hich  Were  alt  that 
remained,  while   some  were  ^mploy^d  in  melting 
downf  ihot  to  fnakemore.     The  weather  wassbdoudf 
thaf  I  hatd  not  an  opportunity  of  taking  an  dbsei^*^ 

Whiie  w^  we're  eiikployed  in  making  these  prepa- 
rations, we  saw  an  Indian  in  a  canoe  come  down  the' 
river^  ^nd  li^d  at  the  huts,  which  he  began  to  exa- 
mine* On  perceiving  ns  he  stood  still,  as  if  in  a 
state  of  suspense,  when  I  instantly  dispatched  one  of 
my  Indians  towards  him,  but  no  persuasions  could 
induce  him  to  have  confidence  in  us ;  he  even  threat- 
ened that  he   would  hasten  ta  join  his  friendsj  who> 


ihe 

d  wait  tii€ 
is  pitojeet) 

i«laep^  ^^ 

i  of 'ilif&«Ihi. 

riiole^ifoi^fe 

but  %h^^ 

sentaetions 

eKasAihtiivg; 

ns  In  toifb" 

re  all*  that 

it"  melting 

ssb  daud  f 

an  dbsefi*'^ 

6se  pi'epa- 
!  down  the 
an  to  exH- 
as  if  in  a 
li«d  one  of 
ions  conid 
^en  threat- 
ends,  ivh9> 


I/hrth'West  Continent  of  America.        32t 

iwould  come  and  kill  us*  At  the  conclusion  of  this 
menace  he  disappeared.  On  the  return  of  my  youngs 
mani  with  this  accouiU  of  the  interview,  I  pretended 
to  discredit  the  wbole^  and  attributed  it  to  his  own  «p- 
prehenitonv  and  alarms.  This^  however,  he  denied* 
and  ajsked,  ^vith;a  look  and  tone  of  reiscntment,  wbe« 
th^  hp  l»d;eiyfer  told  me  a  li«r^2  <  TJiougJI  he  wai^bliC  a . 
young  imaii^'  he  isatd^ohei  had<been  onrwrar  excorsiona 
beforeihexarasf  with' fi&ev)  and  tfaat4]»  Should  no  longer 
conaider  me  as  >  fM  wisei  >iiia9^  ^whicb  he  had  hitherttf . 

.  ij^O;  add:ta  dnr  distresses  Ire  had  not  an  ounee  of 
gum  for  1he:vepanitioit  ef:thexeinbef  and  not  one  dT 
the.  :men  hadi  i  rsufficient <  ooumge  to  >  venture  i|^  th6 
woods  to.0oUd<sti  it.  ;  In  thia  |^rple!]qng>it4MXiftri  en- 
terU)lnQd!4hep)h^p;e;;ths^'ittil!he- course)  of  the  nig^ 
sfmecOffthft  naliybs;  ilirituld  return^  ^fte  take  away  a  ^lartt 
a|  least  n£^  the  tihlngsjwhidh  they   had  left  behind 
themy  as  they  bad   gone  «««ay  wiUiout  the  coverin|g»- 
necessary  to  defend  them  from  the  weather  and  the^ 
flies.     I  there&re- ordered   the  canoe  to  be  loaded, 
and  dropped  to  an  old  house,  one  sideof  which^/with^ 
its  rQO!l^..had^bee A  carried  away  by-the   water  ;<butA 
the  three  remaining  ai^gles  were  auffiicient  to*  shelter^ 
us  from  th«  ^OQda»  >  I  then  ordered  IWo  sti^ng  plw 
quota  tabe  driven  into  tihe  ground,  to.wluGlirtheioa^ 
noe  w^  faatened,  so  that  if  we  #ere.hard  flresa^d^^ 
had  only  to  step  on  board  and  push  off*    \^«^er#^^ 
under  th«  necessity'  of  making  a  smoke  to  keepj^fF 
the  swarms  of  Siea,  which  wo^4  ^^^  etherwiscl  toiH 
mentedua;  but  we  did  not  venture  to  excite  >a>tbte^ 
as  it  would  have  been  a  mark  for  the; arrovrft'oC^t^. 
enemyr    Mr*  Mackay   uidmyaelf,  witl»  thv^eimfill^ 
kept  alternate  watch,  and  allowed  the  Indians  to  4<^ 
as  they  fancied*    I   took  the  i^rst  wfttch,  afld<  <^e; 
others  laid  down  in  their  clothes  by  us*     I  also,  pla^i 
ceda  ccntinel  at  a  small  distance,  whi>  was  relieved 
every  hour.     The  weather  waa  cloudy,  with  tho^iieri 
of  rain« 

Tueadaif  35.    At  one  I  called  up  the  watch,  andlaid  > 
down  to  a  small  portion  of  br<^«n  rea^*  Al!^ml 


$^         yournal  of  a  Voyage  through.  th§ 


arose}  and  as  t^he  situation  which  we  left  yesterday^ 
vas  preferable  to  that  which  we  then  occiupied,  I  de- 
termined to  return  to  it.  Oti  our  arrival  Mr.  Mackay 
informed  me  that  the  men  had  expressed  their  di^sa* 
tisfaction  to  him  in  a  very  unreserved  manne|>,andbad 
in  very  strong  t€>rhi»4^cl^red  their  resolution  ti^  fol- 
low i&«  B©  fuMhco*  ih  my  fir^^ed  intetpriz^V  ;I  fiiA 
not apptfais  k^wi^h  td'havei-ecelvdd  siich coiji^nitint- 
catioiul  IroM^'hitti^  ahU  ci^ntihiield  to  e^t)ioy  iiiy  wW^l^ 
tjhou^hu  in  oon^vitibg  itxdaliM^d^bfltig  albbut  ai^^dn- 

riliattnn  with   thi>  #iAtLi^<»ttIij[krlii^K  (^1>«nj^(W>^i^1/)  <>n^Mllk 


ciliatlon  with  the  hatWeft^  %hidH  'laldn^^Hl^dtilde^fti^ 

me  tor<proc«i»e  <gii,iii«kdBi  ^^Uhbiit  '#[i<lse  ^tiit^M')t 

would  be  impostiibl^  fov  ftire  to  pHic^etf^^iin  iHy  dajr- 

^ng  project  would  end  in  disappointment.  ;.' . 

Atitwtl#«»  w«  si^w  i'liiiifi  6\Bf2^ihf  i^TtH  thi^'i^tjrlam 

upoa^yaft,  and  he  tnU9it^l»lb^c^dVJi4^.d'U8  ¥>e^^   ^4 

perceived  liinir  as  1m^  way  1«0l4Kb^  '^17'  hard  id  ^et  t^ 

thier  opposite  i&hbi^«,W^Ns^  hd '  i^k  t^de^d*  ^H4^  i^* 

st«At|y  fled  into  the  w^(M)ds«^^^^I  ndw  hati  a  iheridhif^ ' 

altitude)  which  gave  6Q#  93'.  liiiftiiral  horiEon  (the  ;iii. 

gle  being  more  than  the  sexia^t  could  measure  witiv 

the  artificiaf  hori9on)  one  sale  and  an  half  distant  *, 

s^d  the.  eye  five  feet  aiove  ihelevel/of  the  w^ter;^  gav& 
*3.v4flrfc,5^.)Borth; latitude.  -vt^tiTi  =ii>viw*  uMm'  ■^'^<'fi, 

Whil^  I  waa^  thus  employed;  tlifclii^eh'lpade^  ikk 
canoe  wiiho<}t  JBtavIng  received  ^ais]^.  or*der^i£|foiiV  txi^t 
BMm§  tbi$  was  the 'first  liikieiheyh^'^e^i^i'edtd'act 
in  swib  a  decided  manner)  J  naltnraily  cbhcluded^  that 
toy  had  preconcerted  a  plan  for  'their  return-"  i 
thflltight  ft  i^udem»  howeve?*  to  take  nonottcte  of  this 
ti?i^ina<ic|iony  and  to  wait  the  issue  of  future  circute« 
atani^^v  At  this  -mom^iit  our  Indians  perceived  a 
person 'in  the  ed^  of  the  woods  above  «s,  and  they 
wecii  imniiedtaie^  disf^atched  to  discover  who  it  wiisk 
^^flerafhgortali&eiiK^e  they  returned  with  ayoungwo« 
xnfMA  Whom  we  1^  s^ien  before  :  her  language  was  not 
eieiirly  comprehended  by  us,  ^o  that  we  could  not  learn 
I  from  her,  at  least  with  any  degree  of  certainty,  the 
cause  of  this  unfortunate  alarm  that  had  taken  place 
Amoag  the  natives.  She  told  us  that  her  errand  was, 
Ipic^^  soiQ^  thitt^a  whkli  she  luidleft  behind  hei^; 


-^Mi^  otte  of  tire  aojfs  ithom  we  foowd  Utt^  appeared 
to  acknowledge  het  a»  mi  mispress.  Wtt  Insated  her 
^Ji f*^  kindBcss,  gave  her  sometbittg  to  eat,  and 
added  a^ present  of  sttch  articles  as  We  thooghi  might 
pl<^  h^r.  On  her  expiessii^  a  w»h  to  leave  03, 
wf  r^adiljr^coasciHcd  to  h<|p  departore,  and  indulged 
V^  hope  that  her  recep(ti(?n  would  indue*  the  native* 
to,  return  m  j^^ace,  and  jgi^  ^%  an  opportunity  tt>  eon- 
yince  them,  th^  w^  l,a<4  no  JioaiHc  designa  whatever 
^^W^i^¥^?^r  On  l|??kving  us,  she  w«i$  up  the  i4vcr 
f  WPg^  ^^8  .fk.«ii^e  article  of  her  owa,  and  the 
^^T^^^T  J^^^^Wwaaclsangeabic  *Hfo«ghout 
tfip  c^y ,  ,a|id,  thitre-.i^re  aevetal  fihiwi'^ei*  In  ibe  eoutae 

,,  ^f"^'^?*^  ?  TP''?^^aj!|iatetit  aiij;iet|r  prevaiJed  among 
the  |^opl«  foplheirj^pj^lif©,!  app^red  to?be  whoUy' 
Ipattpntii^Ci^q  i^,  ^d  at,  eight  in  tJbe  evenitig  I  ordered 
foup  ttten.  t^,»^p  ^  th«?  canetef  which  b    \  teen  load- 
ed Sar  several  hours,  and  ^rppd^wn  w  out  ^iwrd- 
Lpuse,  and  mj^  cpinmand  was  imaiediately  obe-'ed^ 
thp  rest  of  us  proceeded  there  by  land.    When  I  was 
yet  at  *  ediisiderable ;  distance  from  the  housej  md 
^ougiititimpofisiblefpr  an  arrow  10  reath  it,  having 
a  bow  and  a  quiver  m  my  hand^  I  very  imprttdemly  let 
W  an,fti^w<,/^^hen,  tpniy  astomshment  and  infinite 
al^in,  i il»fia?]4Jit  atjrike>a  iQgof  the  bou3e^  ^  The  men 
who  h«dju^l«nd«4  imagMed  that  they  we*t!  atta^^ 
ed  byan  ei^my  rfroai  tbe  wotjfls.    :f  heiih  cortfusion 
was  in  ja»port3on  to  their  imaginary  danger,  and  on 
my  amyal  I  ^uad  that  the  arrow  ^ad  passed  m^hib 
a  foot  qfonejoltbe  men  i  tliough  it  lytdnopdiiii.,the 
weapon  mcredible  as  it  may  appear,  had  entered  <m 
hard,  dr>  log  of  wood  upwardss  of  attindi^     Butthk 
was  not  all  :  for  the  men  readily  a^t^aUM  themsekes 
of  this  ci rcumstance,  to  remark  up«i  the  danger  of 
remaining  in  the  |)ower  of  sa  people  possessed  of  such 
me^ns  tf destruction.     Mr.  MaGkayimvbkgtb*  first 
watch^  I  laid  myself  down  in  4ny  cioak* 

IVednenday  26.  About  midnight  a  rustling  noise  was 
heard  in  the  woods  which  created  a  general  alarm, 
and  1  was  awakened  to  be  informed  of  the  circttHi?- 


524  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

stance,  but  heard  nothing.  At  one  I  took  my  turn  of 
the  watch,  and  our  dog  continued  unceilsing  to  run 
backwards,  and  forwards  along  the  skirts  of  the  wood 
in  a  state  of  restless  vigilance*  At  two  in  the  mornings 
the  centinei  informed  me,  that  he  saw  something  like 
an  human  figure  creeping  along  on  all-fours  about 
fifty  paces  above  us.  After  some  time  had  passed  in 
our  search,  I  at  length  discovered  that  his  informa- 
tion was  true,  and  it  appeared  to  me  that  a  bear  had 
•  occasioned  the  alarm  i  but  when  day  appeared,  it 
proved  to  be  an  old,  grey-haired,  blind-man,  who  had 
been  compeUed  to  leave  his  hiding  place  by  extreme 
hunger,  being  too  infirm  to  join  in  the  flight  of  the 
natives  to  whom  he  belonged.  When  I  put  my  hand 
on  this  object  of  decaying  nature,  his  alarm  was  so 
great,  that  I  expected  it  would  have  thrown  him  into 
conviilsions.  I  immediately  led  him  to  tSUT  fire  which 
had  been  just  lighted,  and  gave  him  something  to  eat, 
which  he  much  wapted,  as  he  had  not  tasted  food  for 
two  days.  When  his  hunger  was  satisfied,  and  he 
had  got  warm  and  composed,  I  requested  him  to  ac- 
quaint me  with  the  cause  of  that  alaitn  which  had  ta- 
ken place  respecting  us  among  his  refations  and 
friends,  whose  regard  we  appeared  t«  have  conciliated 
but  a  few  days  past.  He  replied,  that  very  soon  after 
we  had.  left  them,  some  natives  arrived  from  above, 
who  informed  them  that  we  were  enemies;  and  our 
unexpected  return,  in  cUrect  contradiction  to  our  own 
declarations,  confirmed  them  in  that  opinion.  They 
vrere  now,  he  said,  so  scattered,  that  a  considerable 
time  would  .elapse,  before  they  could  meet  again. 
We  gave  him  the  real  history  of  our  return,  as  well 
as  of  the  deserUon  of  our  guide,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  stated  the.  imposstbility  of  our  proceeding,  un- 
less we  procured  a  native  to  conduct lus.  He  replied, 
that  if  he  had  not  lost  4us  sight,  fie  would  with  the 
greatest  readiness  have  accompanied  us  on  our  jour- 
ney. He  also  confirmed  the  accoXmts  which  we  had 
received  of  the  country,  and  the  route  to  the  west- 
ward. X  did  not  neglect  to  employ  every  argument% 
Jnmy  power,  that  be  jnight  be   persuaded  of  ciidr 


he 

k  my  turn  of 
laing   to  run 
of  the  wood 
the  morning 
mething;  like 
l-fours  about 
lad  passed  in 
his  informa- 
,t  a  bear  had 
appeared,   it 
tan,  who  had 
>  by  extreme 
flight  of  the 
put  my  hand 
larm   was^  so 
•own  him  into 
tfur  fire  which 
aething  to  cat, 
Mted  food  for 
isfied,  and  he 
ed  him  to  ac- 
wbichhad  ta- 
refations    and 
^ve  conciliated 
ery  soonafiter 
A  from  aboTC, 
ies;   and  our 
on  to  our  own 
►inion.     They 
a  considerable 
I  meet  again. 
stum»  as  well 
i,  at  the  same 
•oceedingf  un- 
.    He  replied, 
ould  with  the 
s  on  our  jour- 
wbich  we  had 
:c  to  the  wcst- 
/ery  argument* 
tuadcd  of  €^ 


lffcr^*We9t  Continent  ttf  America.        325 

friendly  disposrtlons  to  the  inhabitents  wheresoever 
we  miglit  meet  them. 

^/A^s^rmt  \Y»  perceiTed  a  canoe  with  one  mm  in 
itontOse  opposite  side  of  ^e  river,  ^and  at  our  request, 
^•!>e^  6*il«irTO«»  <;atM  tothim  to  come  to  us,  but  Ite  m^ 
^^^'^^P^^^jm^yffm  and  continued  his  coun«^&St  as 
Ifitjlfll^jNjJBte^wiioiJie  current. «.  He  was  consi- 
ai^o^W  %  sWP*))ii«irjnK«f  antl  J^^*s  cortfirmedinthat 
W^^W»ft».|r^nj  IrAtm mr*  wooden  'canoe  dHfting^  with 
^n  ^ym^iShmci'm  ^ddtel^^ti  shbre,"^  whotr'it  was 
llWH%*fih^  ^ffliMifiMiiiat  iowriofthfc  tiat^^fef^lgiit 
^  Wrwf^^iW  taMgto,  the»efbl^j  httve  been  ait 
mmmitmvi>^'»fii  ^  perfwps^fidal  tb  the  future  sue- 
^m^  Wtinmik/n^kmfffr4^>im.it9!A  ^i^ted  these 
mmmti^Pri^kv}^  migtiMiiiifOWglr  IfeAi*^  hivc*eitipIoyed 
mm  wm^m^mArki^iaj^ift^^iHsk^  %stw  tt*fclrate, 
,ii.^m^^m»i^ j^kOnnamd^  Wte, ^ffia#.  *bifte of Itte -na- 
|?»c»*^^Qn»fcli»drta6elitlitertr¥N«%  f^  thC-rttcr, 

wid-^hos^Hheitt  ItM^ima^  hiiA  fefl^tfecir  late  8t»- 
Hpnto^thw  ft'nMt  in  tfic*|*lit4rt,  Which,  when  dri- 
ed, iormt  I,  emisiienilili^«rttole  m  ttwnr  wirfferstock 
^t^ppQwalftlls..  m  Ipd -a  womaiii  fifr^fd,  %m  him» 
9iflif^9l9e44(^^sM  «s  wtikinridOnfg  th*  snttMdjaihin^ 
fiyfer,i.b»t  whenM  dallfed^^htfriie  i^tfiV^d^hd  B*iS\^r; 
^  llnttiiie^ild^  |ireb«biy  lte«'1!ty^oi  feopfei    He 

inforteflil  ree,*  als<%  mm  h«H^^ic«fed^  aN^SM^t^blc 
number  olhis^tvibe  td  com^'ok fheiipptr  «irtWi!he 
fii?erto.cai«dfc  fish  fbrthelpij)ftt^fettt^'luppoW,'  ^A  to 
•ut*.  theitt-for  their 'Winter  Jtoi«e  j-'<ithong  #fti6m^^e 
JMid  .«9on-iinilw«^brot^rt;«  ^--i-  '>^'^'^''<t^v^i''>^^^^^^  -*^*'''^' 
M  consequence  ^  ihe«e  *<iiiriWtfnftj4Vi6ri^,  'I  kern- 
ed it,aiic^gethferf«nn^e»a<7''  tHt>i^'^tiiomi4e  it 
this  pla6»v  andi iftfowned?<llt?i«W i*ftffl»%^^^^  j^^t 
Jteortippanyi  meifor  >  <he  pu^s^-dr^iJiA^ 
histfpiendaiand  reIlti6AB,  and  ^t  'ff%fe^*ef  *iwtK  W 
son  9r  brother*,  I  deptrm^miAmi^^  kM^Mi 
them,  »op:  soine  trf  their  ?ai^y,^4h^f  tit  a1 '^guides 
HI  ;o«rmeditate«l«xpMition.  ^ll^^ih^prtbeiJ  WwftS- 
-es  ito.^  exeused  tfdmthli  ^fct^*-,  #tf1ti  other  cii^ 
eumstances  WB  sh<>uldi  not  haVr^iiisfSttk  6li  it,  lidtf  si- 
tuated as  we  were,  we  could  not  yield  to  his  request. 

Ee 


526         yournalofa  Voyage  througii  the 

At  seven  in  the  morning  we  left  this  ^iMity  which  I 
liamed  Deserter's  Hiver,  or  Creels*  Our  blind  guide 
was,  howevery  so  averse  to  continuing  with  us,  that  I 
was  undei^he  very  disagreeable  necessity  of  ordering 
the  men  to  carry  him  into  the  cfuipe  -,  a^d  this  was 
the  fir»t  act^ringiny  vpy^e,  th^tji^d  thp  seihbiance 
of  vioki^tdei^ng..  |ie  coiitinufid  to  gi>jeal(i  in  a  verjf 
loud  tpne^^wli^^  iie  rej^i)^^(^,  aecyr^iA^  to  his  cdn- 
jecturct  .ne^^'enoi^gj^  to  t^e  caipp  to  t^/h^ard,  but* hi 
a  lan^wa^ ,thgit pur ,  i^^tOTJ^eters  ^^'^P^  ^undei'Staiid. 
On  awkiiPfg  l^^iji^'i^rj^at  hjc'^M^j  M^^  he  dMnot 

speak  4na,,I^jtijgui^eJtn,qwn  tp  us,  he  r6t>Ue'd.  that 
the  woiufkA  und^rstopd,  'luiii;  better  Jii  thiit  which  he 
tipoke,  ftn|d  h^  f^^c^ested  her^  to 

come  for  ium  to  the  c^rjriiig-Place.  Where lie  cxpcicl- 
(ed we shPuW^eki^e  hiiS-l. i^^l^^  "■^.^^  -'^'' 
■  At  length  our  c9Xipt'^}0^m^M^  m'li 
was  absolutely  unfit  for  service ;  and  it  was  the  unre- 
mitting employnteiit  of  otu^  t>erson  to  k«ep  her  clear 
of  water :  we,  therefore,  inquired  of  the  old  man 
where  we,  could  conveniently  obtain  the  articli^  ne- 
cessary to  build  a  new,  one ',  ai)d  we  undef%tbpd  from 
him,  that,  lit  some  distaiiice  u|>the  riv;er,  we  should 
find  plenty  o^b^  and  c^dar.;^^^  ,,     , 

At  ten,  being  ajt  the  foot  Pf  a  ittmd%  we  ktiyr ,  k  smaH 

T--  f. 'J    ...    .»     .  ■      .,i  ^'.s  .■■'.      ■:'''m  rill' '"(Wtri  .'ill'  .'      LI 

canoe  coming  .down  with ,  two  i^^  m  it*  ,  We  ll\9ught 
it  would.,  ^iijupossibie  Ipr^th^m  tp  ef^^^  '^TPt 

£ore  struc^  off'  fromi  tiie  ,^hpre  with  ^'  desigfn  to  iilter* 
cept  thenoi,  directing  the  old  man,  it  the  same  timcy 
to  address  them  ;  but  th^y  no  sooner  petteived  us, 
than  they  steered  into  the  strength  of  the  curteht, 
where  I  thought  that  they  must  inevitably  parish; 
but  their  attention  appeared  to  be  engrossed  by  the  si- 
tuation of  their  canoe,  and  they  escaped  without 
making  us  the  least  reply.   . 

About  three  in  the  afternoon  we  perceived  a  lodge 
at  the  entrance  of  arousderable  river  on  the  right,  as 
"^ell  as  the  tracks  if  people  in  the  mud  at  the  mouth 
pf  a  small  river  ozk  the  left.  As  they  appeared  to  be« 
fresh,  we  landed  and  endeavored  to  trace  them,  but 
without  success.     We  then  crossed  over  to  the  lodge. 


bui 

ceecl 

M^c 

Well 

to  eh 

bere( 

spru 

videc 

but 

pitch 

nred 

had 

been  i 

one 

A  net 

end 


5e»  which  I 
sUnd  guide 
1  us,  that  I 
of  ordering 
d  tl^id  was 

semblance 
liLi)i>ven( 
tohlft  c^t>: 
lardt  b'tft'in 
under^aiid. 

Jie  did  not 
feiiUetd,  that 
it  which  he 
ard  himi  to 
eheexpec)^ 

IS  the  unrc- 
!p  her  clear 
\t  old  man 
articles  ne- 
iAtbpd  from 
we  should 

^aiwasmaH 
■yy^eth^ugKt 
[,>ndthere- 
igh  to  inter- 
j  same  timet 
►erceived  us, 
the  curtetit, 
tablv  parish; 
i^d  by  the  si- 
ipeU  wi^out 

eivcd  a  lodge 
the  right,  as 
at  the  mouth 
>peared  to  be« 
:e  them,  but 
to  the  lodge, 


Ndrth^Wtst  Continent  of  Ameriecu.        9Vf 

which  was  deserted,  but  all  the  usual  furniture  of 
such  buildings  remained  untouched. 

Throughout  the  whole  of  this  day  the  menhadbeen 
in^a  state  of  extreme  ill-humor,  and  as  th^y  did  not 
choose  openly  to  vent  it  upon  me,  they  disputed  and 
quarrelled  among  themselves.  '  About  sun-set  the 
cande  struck  i|pon  the  stump  of  a  tree,  which  broke  a 
large  hole  in  her  bottom  :  a  circumstance  that  gave 
them  an  opportunity  to  let  l«»c4e  thfir  discontents 
without  reserve.  I  If  ft  them  as  soon  as  we  had  land<r 
ed,  and  ascended  on  <  lb  vated  bank,  in  a  state  of  mind 
which!  scarce  wish  to.  recollect,  and  shall  not' attempt 
to  describe.  At  this  place,  there  Was  a  sitbterraneous 
house,  where  I  determined  to  pass  the* night.  The 
water  had  risen  since  we  passed  down,  and  it  was 
with  the  utmost  exertion  that  we  came  up  several 
points  in  the  eoursef  of  the  day. 

thursday  27i^  We  embarked  at  half  past  foni', 
witl)  tery  favorable  weather,  and  at  eigfht  we  landed, 
wheire  there  was  an  appearance  6f  bur  being  able  to 
procure  bark  j  we,  however,  obtained  but  a  small 
quantity,  ^ttwehre'we  Went  6n  shore  a^n,  and  col- 
lected as  much  as  was  necessary  fdr  oill^'purp^Ose.  ■  ik 
now  rem'aijied  for  its  to  fix  on  a  proper  place  for 
building  another  canoe,  as  it  was  impossible'tb  pro- 
ceed with  our  old  one,  whith  was  become  an  absolute 
Wreck.  At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  a  spot 
^eli  adapted  to  the.  business  in  which  we  were  alwut 
to  engage.  It  was  on  a  small  island  not  much  incum- 
bered with  wobdj^though  there  was  plenty  of  the 
spruce  kind  o#  the  opposite  land^  which  was  only  di- 
vided from  us  by  a  small  channel.  We  now  landed, 
but  bjfefore  the  canoe  was  unloaded,  and  the  Vsnt 
pitched,  a  violent  thunder-storm  came  on,  accompa- 
nied with  rain,  which  did  not  subside  till  the  night 
had  closed  in  upon  us.  TWO  of  our  men  who  bad 
been  in  the  woods  for  axe-handles,  saw  a  deer,  and 
one  of  them  shot  at  it,  but  unluckily  missed  his  aim* 
A  net  Was  also  prepared  and  set  in  the  eddy  at  the^ 
end  of  the  island. 


338         y^ttrnal  of  a  Voifoge  tkrougii  Ug 


CHAPTER  IX* 


AMm  |ii«Mirtldamlo,|)iO)ld  %  fMio$.  Kniagein  ttitt  tiapoitant  woiti.  If  pi«i» 
certl»W»th|rfptexp*(iitlon.  TlieRUulJ'Wrho  had  dfcierceid  arrive*  with  anothet 
ladian.  He  eoinnH»ninit«ff>Krecik^:e  (nteUig^nrf .  They  take  an  »|Ypor(unitf 
to  quit  the  itbind.  Comulcte  the  cutoe.  Leave  fhe  iilana,  which  waiouw  nam- 
ed %e  Caneebland.  Onliij^eH  M  ^tH«  petmks  on  ibiirt  oUowanoe.  Acouunf 
oHfae  qaviiyttien.    UiQicalt  alr.eBtef.a  raoiQ.    Fre«b  perpttrxltiet.    Continua 

'  nurvoiaieup  me  nver.  Meet  the  ^de  and  some  of  his  friend*.  Conceal 
•ome  fi eoi^iioan  and  (Mher  arfidesv  Klulie  prepaiatluni  tor  procaediiic  over 
iami.    CodeaVdr  tn  icciUB  tb^  aao6e  tljU  our  reuu-n.    Proceed  on  our  journey. 

,    VariourctftamOMoaftOfiti: 

iS>  ml  At  a  v«ry  early  hour  of  the  morning  every 
ipan  -qrftB  vrnffloyti  in  x^kitig  prepaiTations  for  tmiid* 
l^ganotliw  canoe)  and  different  part^o^' went  in  tearcb 
pf  W^^  ^"^<^PC)  mkI  gfuoa.  At  tWo  in  t)ie  aCterAoon 
they  a|i  returned  succesiiful*  eaicept  tlhe  collectera  of 
(uni)  and  ef  tliat  article  H  wastleaced  we  shoukl  not 
obtain  here  a  sufiicieiit  i&i^f4;  'f<H'  our  iimnediatcf 
McantsB*  After  a'  necessary  portion  of  time  allotted  for 
teft'eshfneQt^  each  bc>|^  his  respecHv«  work.  I  had 
^n  altitvideat  nooo)  which.in»de  Ma  in  53.  ^.  3^  north 
latitude* 

•  Saturday  29,    The  wei^hfi*  continued  Ip  ^<i  fino* 

At  five  we  renewed  our  labcur,  and  the  c&ooo  was  got; 

in  a  state  of  considerahle  £br>vardnesa*    The  condue-* 

tor  of  t^e<  worky  tho)i|^  a  gt>od  .man^  was  remaiKabUi 

iov  the  tardiness  of  hi?  operatioAs^  whattiver  th«:y 

might  Ue*  .and  more  4it^posed  to  eat  than  to  he  active ; 

lit  tlwrefbret  toak  this  opportunitT  of  unfolding  xof 

^ontiments  to  hinir  an4  thereby  disc<we  ring  to  all 

arounct  loe  the,  r^id,  state  qf  .rny  mind^  aiyi  t^ft  resolu^* 

tWns-l  h^fownfi'^'-f'^'pniy  futuEo  condifcjt. '  After  re» 

proacluAig  hiiaf*  f=^**  his  general  iinacllvity,  put  paiticu* 

i«i«4^  oiv  tlie  prcTjent  occasion,,  when  our  time  was  so 

l^clous»  I  xKi^ntioned.  tlte  apparent  want  of  economy 

both  of  l^in>s^lf  and  hia  con^panions,  in  the  Wtklie  ol 

ptoTi^oQS*    I  informed  hin^  that  I  ^m^^  ryf4-  tdtogether 

a  stranger  to  tl^cir  late^  conversationsi  ifom  w^enc^ 

i  dffQw. the  conclusion  that  they  wished  toptit: an  eod» 

t9t^0  voyage^    U  thptwere  so,  J  e3(|>resse49iy  wisA 

that  ihey.  Wviuld  be  explicit,  and  tcMni^"  at  onc^i  of 

their  determination  to  follow  me  uo  longer.    1  con- 


NorttuWeat  Continent  o/America*         329 

cladedf  however,  by  assuring  him,  that  whatever 
plan  they  had  meditated  to  pursue,  it  was  my  fi^cepl 
and  unalterable  determination  to  proceed,  in  spite  of 
every  difficulty  that  might  oppose^  6r  dagger  that 
should  threkteoi  the.  The  man  was  v^y  muck  mor- 
tified at  lAy  luidrtsisiAg  this  remonidtraiice  Iemu^ 
Wiitm ;  and  replied,  that  hq  <|[|4.  not  dqi^erVe^Tigiy ^is- 
titeksure  more  uum  di^  rest  of ^hem.  My  yA^!^  |>c- 
iiriiig^'  toswtdr^dj'  '^hb  'cbiiV^riatioti  dropped,'  and  -  ihc 
work  went  on.  i    r  ,p  ;  ,, 

.  About  tw<^  in  the  laftemiM  msenf  iht  Hiek  f>iltesi v^ 
ed  a  canoe  witktwp  of  thenlativev  itfit^'tcTiiliiligr  along 
th6;  inside  of  the  island,  <bttt !  the  wattr  htih^  '^hallbw, 
it  turned  badk,  and  we  Imagined' tl^t  Mk^fyiefccMhgus 
they  had'takenthe  idarm  }'bttt  we  weMAgrtf^bly  sur- 
prised on!  seeing  theii  come  up  btt  the'bufs^^of  the 
isUnd»  wheawe  retoghisiBd  our  gii5d«,  and  dde  6^the 
natives  whom^  we:  had  already  tettn.-  TheH^rmer  be- 
gun immediately  to  apok>^e  for  hUi  c6ndb<it,'and  as- 
Mured  me  that  smce  h^  had  left  me,  his  whole  time 
had  been  employed  in  searching  after  hb  family,  who 
had  been  sei^d  with  the  general  panic,  that  had  been 
occasioned  by  the  false  reports  of  thie  people  who  had 
first  fled  froiti  tts^  He  said  it  was  genei^lly  ippr^hend- 
ed  by  tihtt  natives  that  twc  had  been  Unfi^ieridiy  W-their 
relations  above,  who  #ere  expected  tipdntlM  liVer  in 
greit  Bumbera  at  this  time  rand'  thdt'  thai*!^  of'  the 
Atnah  or  Chin  nation,  had  tome  iip  ttib'iivef  l^^here 
we  had  been,  in  the  hope  of  stieing  Ua^  tOifd  iw'ere  very 
much  displeased  with  him* and  his  frtendafiW  having 
neglected  to  give  ^em  ati  eaHy^fi^ti^eif^otlr  arrival 
there.  He  added,  that  the  tw6  hieti  #hom  we  had 
seen  yesterday  or  the  day  before,  ^ete  just  returned 
from  their  rendezvous,  with  the  liatiVes  of  the  sea- 
coast,  and  had  brought  amesfsag^  fro|i>  hi^  brother- 
in-law  that  he  had  a  new  axe  for  hini,  and  not  to  forj. 
get  to  bring  a  moose  skin  dressed  in  exchabge,  whicli 
he  actiiailly  hdd  in  his  canoeV  He  expected  to  meet 
him,  ;he  said,  at  the  otlier  end  of  the  carry ing-place. 

This  was  as  pleasing  intelligence  as  we  had  reason 
to  expect,  and  it  is  almost  surperfliioustQ  obseirve  that 

£c2 


^30         yournul  of  a  Voyagt  through  tf» 


we  BtoQcl  in  gres^t  need  of  it.  I  hml  a  sneffidiui  alti- 
tude) which  cuve  53*  3*  7.  north  iatitudfi<^  '  I  al44p  took 
tltnc  in  the  tore  and  afternoon^  thatgav.e  a  mean  •£  !• 
37*  4^*  Achrometer  alow  apixarent  tiov^,  which,  with 
an  observed  imqiersion  of  Jupiter's  first  BatclUte,  made 
our  longitude  132.  4a  west  of  Greenwich* 

The  blind  old  man  gave  a  v<ry  favor^^e^  account 
of  us  to  hi^  friendS)  and  they  a\\  t^ree  wore  very  mer- 
ry together  during  the  whole  of  the  afternoon.  That 
our  guide,  however,  mig^t  not  e«cape  from  us  during 
the  night,  I  doteimined  to  Wiatch  him* ' 

Sunday  30.  Our  strangerg  vxn^nKX&d  themselves 
with  great'good-Jnumonr' througbouMhe  day*  Ac^ 
coriling  to  their  iufbrmation  we  Ishould  6nd  their 
TriendB^  aboye  and  beldfwtho  carrying-place*  .They 
inexttioned,  also,  that  sqii^q  pf  them  were  9pt  of  th:eir 
tHhfr,  but  art. '  allied  to  Ith^  pebplb  of  th/s  salt  cQast> 
who  trade  wk^  the  white  xiftjm.*  I  had  ^  mevidian  al« 
titudet,  thai  gave  $3.  ^.  17.  north  latitude. 

\fuljffl  MpnH^y  1.  Lastnij^htl  had  the  first  watch, 
when  ones  of  my  Indians  proposed  to  sit  up  with  me^ 
at  he  umie.rsjtopd,  from  the  old  man's  conversatiouy 
that  he  intended,  ^v\h!^  course  of  the  nighty  to  maki^ 
his  escape*.  Ajccprdingly  ajt  elevten  I  extinguished 
my  light,  and  sat  quietly  in  mx  tent,  from  whence  \ 
cotild  obserV4^  the  motions  of  the  natives.  About 
twelve,  th^V8;h  the  night  was  rather  dark,  I  observed 
th6  old  man  <reepin^  on  hi»  hands  and  knees  to.wards 
the  water  ^ide.  We  actjordingly  foUo^yed  him  very 
quietly  tQ. the  canoe,  a^i4  he  woufd  have  gone  aws^y 
with  it,  if  he  had  not. been  interrupted  in  his  design* 
On  upbraiding  him  for  his  tteachprows  conduct,  .whei> 
he  had  been  treated  with  so  much  kindness  by  ua, 
he  denied  the  intentipn  of  which  vire  accused  l)im» 
and  declared  that  his  sole  object  was  to  assuage  l^i^ 
thirst.  At  length,  however,  he  acknowledged  thq 
Unith,  and  when  we  brought  him  to  the  fire,  his 
fi-ieuds  who  now  awoke,  on  being  informed  of  what 
had  passed,  reprobated  his  conduct,  and?  asked  J\in^ 
how  he  CGuW  expect  that  the  white  pco|)le  w,oul^ire- 
iuru   to  Chis  country,  if  they  expevi^nieed  SHCh  iH?^ 


52. 


grateful  trcfttment.  The  g^ide  taid»  ibr  hia  part,  be 
was  not  a  woman,  and  would  never  ruu  i\^%y  ikf^oti^h 
fear.  But  notwithstanding  ihii^  cpunageoua  declfra- 
tion,  at  one  I  awakened  Mr.  Mackay^  relativd  to  hi  in 
what  had  passed)  and  rtqaeated  hinv  not  to  iDdu)g.# 
himself  in  sleep  till  I  shouM  rise.  It  was  sevea  bcr 
fore  I  awoke,  and  on  quitting  my  tent  I  \ya«  surpri^r 
ed  at  not  seeing  the  guiriec  and  hi^  companion,  and 
i|iy  apprehensions /wei^e  tntrc:;5od  when  I  ob8ecve4 
that  the  canoe  wf&  vQmore^f  :froqiits  Ut^  situation^ 
To  my  inquiries  eif^r  thenii  some  of  the  men  very 
composedly  ai^»wered  th^t  they^  werc)  goi^  up  the.  ri« 
ver,  and  ht^d  UClithe /Old  man  behind}  thenif  Mj^* 
Mackay  also  told  met^thatwhUo  he  wa*  huskily  em<* 
ployed  on*  the  canpQy  Ihoyi  hadjgot  to  the;  point  before 
he  had  observed  tlUm  depanum;:  T^  intfrproier 
now  infopmed  lae  that  ajt  the  dawn  of  day  the  guidA 
had  e)tpTea«ed  his  desigo^.  M<s0oii^;«fi,the  sua  was  up* 
to  go,  and  wait  fpr  u%  wt^^ne  be  might  find  his  friends* 
I  hoped  this  nught  be  tmq  :  but  that  n^^y  people 
should  suifcr  them  to^  depart' without  giving  kw  no- 
tice, was  a  circumstsMice  <tibi^  Awakened  v«)i}ypaiiilki) 
reflections  in  my  br^a^t*.  "^hfi  weather  WM  clear  in 
the  forenoon.  My  observa^^oi^ithia  day  gave  ^3.  2^ 
^?.  north  latitude- 

At  five  ip  the  after^iopn  our  vesael  wtvs  completed^ 
and  re^^y  for  servicfi^  Sihe.  proved  9^  stroqger  somI 
better  boat  thhp  4hQ  pl4  Qne):  though  had  it.  not  beehi 
for  the,  gum.  obtained  from  the  latter)  it  would  have 
been  a  matter  qf  grpat  diflRculty  tp  have  procured  a» 
sufficiency  qf,  thf^t  art)Qle  tp  have  prevented  her  fromt 
leaking.  The  remaijnder  of  the  day  was^  employed 
Vy  the  people  ip  cleanii>g  and  refreshing  tlieroselves^r 
as  they  h^d  enjoyed  no  rela3i;ation  from  their  labor 
since  we  landed  pi^  this  i^pot. 

The  old  m^p,  haying  nUtpifestcd  for  various,  ancV 
probably,  very,  fajlacious  reasons,  a,  very  great  aver^ 
sion  to  accompany  us  aay  ft^therr  it  did  not  appeao: 
thajt  there  was,  ^ny  n^essi^y  tp  fprce>  his  tinclinatickn.> 
W^  npw  put  pwr  nmv*  ia  py4^r»  which  was  sdon  ac-« 


'..:   1,.;.  iji 


tm         yournalofa  Voyage  through  the 

complished,  as  they  were  at  rU  times  a  general  ob- 
jibct  of  attention. 

-    Tueiday  3;     It  rained  throughout  the  night,  but 
at  half  past  three  w    were  ready  to  embark*  when  I 
offered  to  conduct  the  old  man  where  he  had  suppos- 
ed We  should  meet  his  frieudsy  but  he  declined  the 
piro^sltion.,    I  therefore  directed  a  few  pounds  o^^ 
pemmiean  to  be  left  with  l^m,  foir  hisinvmediat^.supr*  y 
pbrt, '  and  tooK  leave  9f  him   and  the  ptacej  wbiffhi.  ^  \ 
n)iihed  Canoe  Island*     During  oi?r  stay  J-hen^Ve  rj»ad 
htkfi  itai6st ,  qnieliy "tp^rmented  by  ITies,  partiqujl^ly  the  -, 
sat^-dy,  iyiiich'  I  l  m  clisp^^e^  to  cqnsidc?  ^  tW  most  ■ 
torm^ntin|^  ihscct  of  its  size  in  naj:>ire*   ,  Twa^  also 
c<an]^erte^  to;^vit  the  pe<6pW  li^n  short  allowance^  4Uid 
cd;ifih&.thei^  .to  tWo  xAe^s  i-dayy  ai^gi^ation  pecu* - 
liltrty  dffi^naw?^  W  a  Csrti^i  One9i:Uiese  , 

Rj^eals Ayas  com^^ed 6f  theclrifid  roiiyjs, o^Ffish,  pound<-  ; 
ed,  and  boiled  in  watet|  thickened  with  a  small  quah* 
tKy  of  Hour,  and  fatteii«d  with  abifcfgrianv  These 
articles,  being  brought  to  the  consistenoy  of  anhasty- 
puddingfproduced  a  substantial  andnot  unpleasant  diish*^ 
The  natives  are  very  careful  of  the  rows  of  fish,  which: 
they  dry,  and  pre  serv  e  in  baskets  made  of  bark.  Those 
we  lised  were  found  jn'  tl^  huts  pf  the  first  people 
who  fled  from  Us.  Duriiig  our  abode  in  Canoe  Island^ 
thC^W^.te^^hlilthree  pefpendicutar  feet.  I  now  gave 
the^tAetf  a  dt^ameachi^x  which  opioid  not  but  be  con- 
sidered, at  this  timV,  as  a  very  comfortable  treat. 
Tl^fe^  w<4r<e^  indeed,  in  high  spirits,  when  they  per- 
cetved'the  superior  excellence  of  the  new  veiisel,  and 
reflettffd  that'  it  Was  the  work  of  their  own  hands. 

At  eleven  we  arrived  at  the  rapids,  and  the  forc- 
msui,  wiio  had  not  forgotten  the  fright  he  suffered  on 
cotfiing  down^  it,  pHroposed  that  the  canoe  and  lading 
8h|>uld  be  carried  over  the  mountain.  I  threatened 
hini  with  taking  the  office  of  foreman  on  myself,  and 
suggested  the  evident  change  there  was  in  the  appear- 
ance of  the  Wt&ter  since  we  passed  it,  which,  upon  ex- 
amination, had  sunk  four  feet  and  an  half.  As  the 
witer  did  not  seem  so  strong  on  the  west  side,  I  de- 
termined to  cross  over,  having  first  put  Mr.  Mackay>, 


IfvftMVest  CtmHnent  of  Amnrki*         f-83 


eneral  ob- 

night,  but 

rk»  when  I 

Ad  suppos- 

eclined  the 

pounds  pi  J 

edUt^  ,8Up?*  V 

be,  wbW^f  V 
iereVert>ftd 

iqul^arly  the 
E^(.|bf  most  ; 
.i-wa^alsa  , 
)wmice|  ^and 
latiaii  pe^Ui'j : 
>np  pf.thes*  , 
Bsh,  pound'- ; 
sQiaU  q!tiah» 
ianv    These 
0^  an  hasty* 

Eeasant  dish*^ 
■fish,  which 
irk.    Those 
first  peoj^Je 
inoe  Island^ 
^npwg^ve 
jut  be  con- 
I'table  treat, 
n  they  per- 
veissel}  and 
lands. 
1  the  fore- 
suffered  on 
und  lading 
threatened 
nyself,  and 
the  appear- 
,  uponex- 
f.     As   the 
side,  I  dc* 
ir.  Mackay^ 


and  onr  two  hunters,  on  shore,  to  try  the  woods  for 
game.     We  accordingly  traversed,  and   got  up  closed 
along  the  rocks,  to  a  considerable  distance,  with  the* 
paddles,  when  we  couldproceed  no  fairer  without  as^ 
ststance  from  the  line;  and  to  draw  it  across  a  perpen*> 
dicular  rock,  for  the  distance  of  fifty  fathoms^  appear-' 
ed  to  be  an  insurmouiitable  bbstacle; ,  The  geoo'al 
opinion  was,  to  return,  and  carry  oh  the  other' side ; 
1  desired^  however,,  two  of  the'  men  to  take  the  line, 
which  was  seventy  i&th^ms  iii  length,  wit^  a  amaU*^ 
noU  of  barkt   and  litide^vor  to  climb  up  the:  rocksy: 
from  whence  they  weise  U>  de^c^nd  on  the  other  side- 
of  that  which  opposed  oar  pcpgress ;  they  were  theni 
to  fasten  the  end  of  the^^ne tbthe  rollof bai^k,  whichi 
the  current  voiild  bring  to  4is;  this  being  effected,: 
they  wouU  be  able- to  di'aw  us  up.     This  v^as  an  en» 
terprize  of  difl&cuity  and  danger,  but  it  was  crowned* 
with  success;  though  to  get  to  the  water's  edge  abdve» 
the  men  were  obliged  to  let  1:hemqelves  down  with  tbn: 
line,  run  round  a  tree,  from  the  summit  of  the  roclu 
By  a  repetition  of  the  same  operation,  we  at  lengtii^ 
cleai*ed  the  rapid,  with  the  additional  trouble  oi  car<< 
pying  the  caaoe,  and  unloading  at  two  cascades.     We^ 
were  not  more  than  two  hours  getting  up  this-difficuU? 
part  of  the  river,  including  the  time  cmployedin  re** 
pairing  an  hole  which  had.  been  bco]^n  in  the  canoey 
by  the  negligence  of  the  steersman. 

Hetfe  we  expected  to  meet  with  the  natives,  but  Dlter« 
was  not  the  least  appeai!ance  of  them,  except  that  ther 
guide,  his  companion^  aiid  two  others,  had  appai%nt- 
ly  passed  the  carrying-place*  We  saw  several  fish 
Uiap  out  of  the  water,  which  appeared  to  be  of  the 
salmon  kind.  The  old  man,  indeed,  had  informed  u» 
that  this  was  the  season  when  the  large  fish  begin  to> 
ootne  up  the  river.  Qur  hunters  returned,  but  had 
not  seen  the  track  of  any  animal.  We  now  continu** 
ed  our  journey  ;  the  cunient  was  not  strong,  but  we 
met  with  Sequent  inipediments  from  the  fallen  trees, 
which  lay  along  the  banks.  We  landed,  at  eight  in  the 
evening  ;  and  suffered  indescribable  incouvenienoei 
.  fr^m  the  flies. 


1534         yourml  of  a  Voyage  thrmgkthe  t^ 


■  Wednesday  3.  It  had  rained  hard  in  the  night,  andt 
there  was  some  small  rain  in  the  morning.  At  four 
we  entered  our  canoe*  and  at  ten  we  came  to  a  small 
river,  which  answered  to  the  description  of  that  whose 
course  the  natives  said,  thev  follow  in  their  joumies 
towards  the  sea-coast ,  we  therefore  put  into  it,  and' 
endeavored  to  discover  if  our  guide  had  landed  here  i  ' 
but  there  were  no  traces  of  him  w  of  any  others. 
My  former  perplefxities  were  now  renewed.  If  I  pas- 
iied  this  river,  it  was  probable  that  I  might  miss  th^ 
liatives;  and  I  had  reason  16  suspect .  tH^t  ni^  men 
would  not  consent  to  return  thither.  As  foir  attemptt 
ing  the  woods,  without  a  guide,  to  introduce  ustotlu^ 
lllit  inhabtt&Tkts,  »uch  a  determination  would  be  little 
jkhort  of  absolute  iiiadness.  At  length,  after  much 
painful  reflection,  I  reeolved  to  come  at  once  toja  full 
ex^M^tion.  with  my  people,  and  I  experienced  aeon- 
i|i^||P»#^;^ireltef  from  this  resolution.  Aocordingly, 
aftec^pet^ti%  Ahe  promise  they  had  so  lately  made 
ipe^  jpQtl^  P^^ng  back  up  the  river,  I  i-epresented 
toihtpiiilk^  this  appeared  to  me  to  be  th^  .ippt  from, 
which,  the  natives  todk  tlieir  departure  for  the  sea 
coast,  and  added,  withal,  that  I  was  determined  tQ 
try  it  J  for  though  our  guide  had  left  us,  it  was  possi- 
ble that,  while  we  were  making  die  necessary  prepja- 
fations,  he  or  some,  others  might  appear,  to  relieve 
Us  fi^bm  our  present  difficulties,  t  now  found,  to  my 
great  satisfaction,  that  they  had  not  come  to  any  fix- 
ed determination  among  themselves,  as^me  of  them 
immediately  assented  to  undertake  the  woods  with 
me.  Others,  however,  suggested  that  it  might  be 
bettfer  to  proceed  a  few  leagues  further  up  the  river, 
in  expectation  df  finding  our  guide,  or  procuring  ano- 
ther, and  that  after  all  We  might  return  hither. 
This  pl&n  I  very  readily  agre^  to  adopt,  but  before  I 
left  this  place,  to  which  I  gave  the  name  ofthe  West- 
Hoad  River,  I  sent  some  of  the  men  into  the  woods,  in 
diffe^'ent  directions,  and  went  some  distance  up  the 
river  itself,  which  I  found  t-^  bis  navigable  only  for 
sm^l  canoes*  .  Two  of  the  men  found  a  good  beaten 


ini 


I-' 


night,  an^ 
.    At  four 
to  a.  small 
that  whose 
;ir  journies 
ato  it,  aiid 
ided  here  ;•] 
my  others* 
.    If  X  pas- 
it  ttiiss  the 
It  mjr  men 
oir  aittemptf 
ce  us  to  th^ 
lid  be  little 
xitGt  much 
ice  to;a  full 
need  a  coiv- 
ocordingly, 
iately  made 
i-epresented 
5  IPpt  fptwn. 
for  the  sea 
ermined  to 
t  wasi  possi- 
sary  prepa- 
,  to  relieve 
ind,  to  my 
to  any  fix- 
me  of  them 
woods  with 
t  might  be 
pthe  river, 
curing  ano- 
irn  hither. 
>ut  before  I 
ftheWest- 
ewpods,  in 
nee  up  the 
e  only  for 
;ood  beaten 


IfoHh-Wesi  Contineni  i^  Amtrka.       h^S 

path,  leading  up  an  hill  just  behind  us,  which  I 
imagined  to  be  the  great  road. 

At  four  in  th^  afternoon  we  left  thisplace,  proceed- 
ing up  the  r^veri  and  had  not  been  upon  t$6  wat€f 
more  than  thret  qtt^tt^e^s  of  4if  houiV  I'^heti  we  si^  tw^ 
<:aiiods  ccrthql^  ivrfth  ^hie  iBtr^jairi* '  No  soofter'd^  ti^ 


gu  ^  , 
W^tn^Wm  6f  j^itited  biek^r  rdbtf^  46'  th4t  H^ 
ieklfceij*'  ktie^  hhtf  %  hii  fineli^riih^it   'l!fe  itt; 
stihtl)^  deiilf«*diis  tti  ittil^ow^^^th^I^llH^  ii<it4^ 

^(Mii'^^'^^Mdh^^  Htm^mii^ih^  ihit  U 

hkiikeithf^fj^ki'^  a' ft^ai^  W^  hottOtiibfe  condurfi 
The  itV^^e^fliiiih^ed  uWv^h^ihe  m^tMni^te  ati 
ten^h;  aiid'  twobf  th^iuT  as  t  was  now  tnfpriAed,  be- 
longed to  ihrjpeopte  whom  we  first  iaw,  uM'  whofled 
with  so  much  alarm  from  us  .They  told  me,  alsoj^  that 
they  were  so  terrified  on  that  occasiou,  as  not/td  a|>^ 
proach  theb  hiits  f6t  two  dkys^  and  that  wlien  they 
ventured  thither,  they  foutid  the  gref jit^r  jpart  of '^h^if 
pr6perty  deitrt)yed,  by  the  fire  i^iining  In  the  ground.. 
Aec6i:^iAg  to  their  account*  they  Vfcre  6f  a  difTfereht' 
tn1)e,  thoci|^h  r  fbund  no  diffei^hc^  in'  their  Yad^age 
from  that  pf  thie  Natalias  or  Cainiers.     Thfey  arc  c3- 
led  Nascud  Denee.    Their  lodgiek'wiei'e  at  some  idis^ 
tance,  on  a  small  lake,  where  they  take  tiSh,  and  If! 
our  guide  had  not  gotie  for  them  iher<^;  We  ilwi^ilfd  Aot' 
have  seen  ait  human  being  on  the  rltkr.'  .  Tlhey  in-r* 
forined  me  that  the  road' oy  their"  il^bit;a|^bii  is  the 
fihoitest,  and  they  proposed  that  We  shoutd  taH<c,  (t* 
Thursday  A,  At  lin  early  hoW  thi^  mO'r^iing^^^ 
the  suggestion  of  our  guidejwepTOceededtometarwd-v 
ing-place  that  leads  to. the  strangers ' lodges.  /Qfpi" 
great  difiiculty  here  was  to  pfocUre  a  teiripoi^ary  Bef»-»' 
ration  from  our  compainy,  in  order  to  hide  some  aru-^' 
cles  we  could  not  carry  with  u5»  and  which  'ii  "<vou(dI 
iiave  been  imprudent  to  leave*  iil  the  power  of  the  na- 
tives.   Accordingly  Mr.  Ma^kay,  and  one  of  our  Indi* 


836        .  y$ur1kittf»  V^agethr€i^h  th¥ 


Mif  embari^ed  ivkh  llietn^  and  soecrt^  «iit-'ttfmir 
sight.  At  our  first  hid ing-plaee  we  .teft^  bag^  atftm^ 
micMi)  wsigftiiitf  nifktcsty  ^oiiMidS)  tw4)'  bft^  of  f^ild 
lice,  tUMl' a  gallon:  keg'  oC  gun  po^v^eri"  Pre^kn^'to 
our  :futliDs^  thestt  fttHiclej^  iA-'  tiie  gt4und,  H^'  ralMl 
thesA"^  4it=  «in  clotltf'  and  drtsB^e^lcli»iiJ6v.  ^  >ln^ ;  ^•i»- 

we  )fl<i  UM^bMfk^ftitidiiiti<«d%^^^   |li8iWe;^<tfid^«ti^ 

H«te:^lt  iMkk  &6e<iJMsr]f<  fbat'We'iiihoUV^ 
noe,  an4  whatever  we  couki  not  carry  cm  otd^bdtSI^.  'Hi 
the  fip6t.pl»^f4)ke»if(gii^,  ^]^i»l^^  «l»^,^iiHlich 
the  canoe >1»iis  |>lfy6ed4}ol^^j[lt^^^^j^^WA^  aOOk^  ttfjr 
ii  povevi^g;  of^sm«Htr«eS'^«hi'bi^i»«ft^«df«6it^^^^^ 
|«om  th«#«i^  <  W^'tto  buitt'i^'tiUb^lYglt^ 
ten  feet  by ^v«^^  ^e^logsi  Wh^^^W^i^aifced^d.- 
ry  artiels  It^wAsnec^s^arf  ^r'ua  ter^a^^  here,lsHlia 
covered  the  whdle  with 'Jatgb  piecesr  of  timbei** 

White  we  were  eagerly*  ein|>toyfect  innhls  'tyecfessary 
business,  oiu*  guide  and  his  tonyi^ni^Tm^i^^re  e^titar 
patient  to  be  gone^  that  we  could  not  peYSuMde^the^* 
mer  to>  wait^till  we  wwc  :p#et>a*^  iftji!  o**rcfe|)ftHwc 
and  we  bad  solne  diflici^f  ^  ift  peirj!tkdMl|  ti»M^  W 
the  nativ«»^«(» rema^iS  wh6  had  und^t^o«f  f^'eloMttct 
us  where' th^  fnide  he^  proffriseH  to  w«it^ouri^iTaI. 

At  n0onv v^e^  wei*e  in  it^tatt  of  f^rt^ar&tiii^n  to  enter 
the  wftods^  an  \indertaking  of  which  I  shall  not  here 
give  any  ptel«ininary  opinion,  but  leave  those  who 
readit  to  jiu^e  for  theniselves. 

We  c«r)«itfdi0li  our  backs  £our  bags  and  an  half  of 
pemmtc^,  wetghingfromeighty^fiveto  ninety  pounds, 
each  f  ft^cilie  ^N^th  ni^  instruments,  a  parcel  of  goods 
for  ppeB^t^  weighing  ninety  pounds,  and  a  parcel 
contaiiAing^iminumtibn  of  the  same  weight.  EacKof 
the  Ciinadibifs  had  a  biirden  of  about  ninety  pounds, 
with  ^j^^i  ■  a^d  some  ammunition.  The  Indians  had 
about^mtijr-fiv®^  pounds  weight  of  pemmican  to  carry, 
besides- their  gun)  die*  with  wiuch  they  were  very  much 


<.u.:- 


lid' elOJ^idttct 

tibn  lo  enter 
hall  not  here 
e  thoae  who 

nd  an  half  o£ 
inety  pounds, 
fsccl  of  goods 
ind  a  pared 
;ht.  Each-of 
tiety  pounds^ 
^Indanshad 
lean  tocarry- 
;re  leery  much 


JJbrtMTrit  Contmertt  of  Amerkm,        af»y 

^fl^atisfied)  and  if  they  had  dared,  would  hate  instant-; 

Sr  left  us.     They  had  hitherto  been  very  much  in- 
tilged>  but  the  moment  was  now  arrived  when  :n* 
dulgence  was  no  longer  practicable.    My  crwn  load, 
and  tiiat  of  Mr.  Mackay,  consisted  nf  twenty-two' 
pounds  of  pemmican,  some  rice,  a  little  sugar,  Set. 
amounttug  in  t^e  whole  to  about  seventy  potmds  each^ 
besides  our  arms,  and  ammunition*  I  had  also  th)e  tid^ 
of  mj  telescope   swung  across  my  shoulder,'  which 
was  a  troublesome  addition  to  my  burthen.  It  was  de- 
termined that  we  shoulQ  content  otirselves  with  two ': 
meals  a-day,  which  were  regulated  without  difilcul^ ' 
t*'^  as  our  provisions  did  not  require  Uw  ceremony  ' 
of  cooking. 

'  In  thb  state  of  eqtripment  we  began  our  journey, 
as  I  have  already  mentioned,  abput  twelve  at  noon, 
the  commencement  of  which  was  a  steep  asceht  of 
about  a  mile  ;  it  lay  along  ^  weN^beaten  path,  but  the 
country  through  which  it  led  was  mgged  and  ridgy, 
and  fuH  of  wood.  When  we  were  iit  a  state  of  ex- 
treme "heat,  from  the  toil  of  our  journey,  the  rajtl '' 
came  on,  and  continued  till  the  evening,  and.  even 
when  it  ceased,  the  underwood  continued  its,  drip-' 
ptngs  upon  us.  *       ■  ^ 

About  half  past  six  vre  arrived  at  an  ImHan  camp, 
of  three  fires,  where  we  found  ottr  guide,  and  on  his*  ' 
recommendation  we  determined  to  rermam  therie  for 
the  night.    The  computed  distance  of  this  day  V  jour* 
ney  was  about  twelve  geographical  miles ;  the  course  ' 
about  west.  ' 

At  sun-set  an  elderly  man  and  three  other  natives 
joined  us  from  the  westward.  The  former  boUe  a 
lance  that  very  much  resembled  a  Serjeant's  halberd. 
He  had  lately  received  it,  by  way  of  barter,  from  the  " 
natives  of  the  sea-coast,  who  proctired  it  from  the 
white-men.  We  should  meet,  he  said,  with  many  of 
his  countrymen,  who  had  just  returned  from  thence. 
According  to  his  report,  it  did  not  require  more  than  six 
days  journey  vfor  people  who  are  not  heaviljr  l&den,  to 
reach  the  country  of  those  vrith  whom  they  bartered 
their  skins  for  iron,  Sec.  and  from  thence  it  is  not  quite' 

F  f 


MUt'*'^ 


*Mh.  *       ymtrnal  of  a  Voyage  through '  the ' 

two  day^s  march,  to  the  sea.  They  proposed  to  send  ' 
two  young  mc^n  on  before  us,tq  notify' to  the  different 
tribes  that  we  were  approaching)  that  they  might  not 
bo  surprised  at  our  appearance,  ai^  be  disposed  .to 
offer  U|S  a  friendly  reception.  This  Wjas  a  measnre . 
which  .lAp^o^ld  .not  bi^t  approv^v  anj^iendei^yored  by 
bope  811^  pri^Bients  ta  preposse^^oMr  couriers  in  our 

These  people  live  but  poQirly  i^^  Jhti  $eMon,  mAA- 
cf^  ;  i^opure  n9 1  prpi4sioi;\  from,  them)  ;but ,  a  ;fe W . 
ft^Uji  4rfjB4  fish  ji^J  think,  of  the  ^arpkiiid.  .Tltey  > 
h|k4  seji^^ral  European  articles ;  and  one  qf  .them  ^sid. 
a.,str^p,9f  firi  which  appeared  to  me  to,  l^pf  the  set^ 
otj^r.  He  obtained  it  from  the  natives  of. the  coast), 
aii^^l^]|)ilPge0  it  wi|h.ji^  for.iipie,  j^<5^5^^§^^ 

hWi^vfVitired  to  rest  in  a^  much  security  as  if  we  had ; 
be;en  long  habitiiated  toa  cpnfidence  in  our  present  as.fi 
SQf^iates:  indeed  we  had  no  alternative  i  for  so  great 
were  the  fatigues  of  the  day  in  our  mode, of  travelling, 
that  >ve,were  in  great  need  of  rest  at  night.   , 

Ftiday  5.  We  had  no  sooner  laid  ourselves  down  . 
to  resVlast  night,  than  th^  natives  began  to  sing,  in  a 
manner  very  different  from  what  1  had  been^  accus- 
tomed'to.  hear  among  savages.  It  was  not  accompa- 
nied either  with  dancing,  drum,  or  rattle;  bi;it, con- 
sist^ of  soft,  plaintive  tones,  and  a  modulatiqq  that 
wa9,,Tather  agreeable ;  it  had  somewhat  the  air  o| 
c^r^h  music t  As  the  natives  had  requested  me  not.ta  - 
quit  them  at  a  very  early  hour  in  the  morning,  itwaaj; 
fixe  Jjfefojre  I  desired  that  the  young  men,  who  were  to 
prj9cef\d  with, us,  should  depart,,  when  they  prepared 
to^et  off;  but,  .on  calling  to  our  guide  to  conduct  us, 
h^  said,  that  he  4id  not  intend  to  accompany  .us  any 
furtheTy  **  the  young  men  would  answer  our  purpose 
as  well  as  himself.  I  knew  it  would  be  in  vain  to  re- 
monstratp  with  him,  and  therefore  submitted  to  his 
caprice  without  a  reply.  However,  I  thought  proper 
to  inform  him,  that  one  of  my  people  had  lost  his  dag, 
or  pdignafd,  and  requested  his  assistance  In  the  re- 
covery pf  it.    He  asked  me  what  I  would  give  him  to  ^ 


North^Veat  Continent  o/Amfrlea.       *9W 


conjure  it  b&ek'ag^h  ;  and  a  knife  was  agreed  tb  ISe 
thfe  prtcc  of  his  ne'cromaQtic  exertiont.  iAccordingljr, 
all  the  dags  iitid  knives  in  the  place  Wete  gathered  to- 
gethe^)  atid  tht?  liatives  formtfd  a  circle  rourid  them  ; 
the  dohjiiperallo-  remained  in  the  middle.  ■  Whten  thift 
pttrt  of  th^^^ctf^mlbny  wasarratiged,  he  beg|an4o^4ibg, 
tfttJ^nest  §«iirtihg  ih^fhe tJhorlBs ;  and  after^  ^mt  tira« 
he  produced 'the  poignard  which  was  stuck  in  the 
gr6*tfidi  and  returned  it  tbinfei'  ^  Hv  ;*'  .i>!  - 
'  At  seyeti  we  'were  ready  to  dcpairt :  y^'htWl ■Wai 
sitrprked  to  Wpar  our  latfe'  guide  ^vopokti '  ^ttifut'  iariy 
wiHditatitki  Jtm  dUr^rtj  ^^6  reiium*  hri^ofiict^V  fehd  K« 
akCtUatiy  c6nd«ctedtJ8  asfiir  as  a  srhall  lak<^r  TV'hefre  W0 
fi;>ttQd  ai^^nbamp'mfcht  of  tht'ee  fsimitteSi-^'  Th*»  young 
li^^ho^had  undei'taktn  to  cond^tt  ii8*rea*e^  not  well 
ondtii^ood  by  my  interpi'et«'Si  w4io  continued  to  be  So 
<}f^lea^ed  ^ith  their  jburtoefy,  that  they  |)ferformed 
this  JjaH  df  thei¥  duty '^ With  gi«ekt  reluctance;  I  cn- 
dJe4Vored  tb^ersuade  aii  elderly  h^fih  of  thlS' eitcanipe- 
nt'ent  to  a,ccompany  us  to  tlte  ncict  tribl^,  btit  no  in^ 
ducement  of  itiiiie  could  prerait  oh  hfmf  to  comply 
with  my  i^ish<i:9*  ^*  I  waS)  thet^fore,  obliged  to  content 
myself  with  'the  guides  I  had  already  engaged)  for 
whom  We  Wie re  obliged  to  Wait  some  time,  till  they 
had  provided'  shoes'  for  their  -joiirhfeyi  •'  I  i exchanged 
two^  halfpence  here,  one  of  his  present  Majesty,  and 
the  othetof  the  statie of  Miiisachusett'*  Bay,  coined 
in  17^87.     Tb«y  liiing  aftornaments  in  childwn's  cars; 

•My  situation  here  was  riendered  rather'  unpleasant 
by  the  treati!^ent .  which  my  hunters  tCfceived  from 
these  people.  The  former,  it  appeared,  We fte  consi^- 
dered  as  belonging  to  a  tribe  who  inhabit  the  moun^ 
tains,  and  are  the  natural  enemies  of  the  latter.  We 
had  also  been  told  by  one  of  the  nativts,  of  a  very 
stem  aspect,  that  he  had  been  stabbed  bf  a^  relation 
of  theirs,  and  pcnnted  to  a  scar  as  a  pro6f  df  it.  I 
was,  therefore,  very  glad  to  phroceed  on  niy  jotimey. 

Our  guides  conducted   us  along   the  lake  through 
thick  woods,  and  without  any  path,  for  abont  a  mile 
and  an  half,  when  we  lost  sight  of  it.     This  piece  of 
water  is  about  three  miles  long  and^tie  bFoad*    W« 


9^         yourmi  tfa  Vptfuge  throtigk  tk^ 


then  croued  a  crpdi  and  entered  upon  a  bcatott 
tr|u:k»  tbrough  an  open  countrjr^  sprinkled  with  cy- 
prcs»  trees.  At  twelve  ^he  sky  i>ecaiiie  bla^k,  and 
aakcsavy^ust  witfi  win  shnrtly  .foll»wad>  wiiich  con* 
tinned  K^r  up vard»  of  an  koun  When  mt  {leroci ved 
tbe  approaeiiiBg  stArntt  we  .fij^ed  our  .ifaip,^)Ii^t  oiU 
ck>tlv  lo.  Ncreeo  *»  t^Dom  W  Qnx  renew^il^  ouv  march, 
A»,  tl)e  bualif!«  ifsere/Teny;  w«t4  I^lcsieed  our  guidest 
the^*  li^v&n(fAQjbnrdsn^>toiWAUL  in  front,,  axkd'  beat 
%\k^ffv  as  they  went  :  this  task^Jaeyti^'hiOce  ^  deolifiw; 
and  .4ascof<Ungi]^>iii  undertook  itn  <  ■  Our  Jtoad  aaw  la^ 
along^a  k<ke>  .iind>act:bt>sa  creek  thkt  can  into  itw  Tfa^ 
gviidjas  idTormed  7ne»  that  ti^  part  of  the  ^countrf 
abomids  r^  beaver;  many  <tn4is  wero  seqa  abing  the 
jpoad^wlikhj^d  iieen  set  jfor  lynxes  and  xnartetia* 
^bfwt  A.^qQarter  of  a  intl&  £iioi|i  4.he  place  i^hera'  we 
had  been  stop|^<hf  the  i:ain^  tkii  grduii4*tas  ^wtvered 
with'  hail^  an4'  as?  ? ^ire  advancdd^  the^  haiUstones  Imt 
jl^ease^  insizBf  some  of  then*  being  as  bag  as  snuskein 
bailf*  In  this  manner  was  the  ground  whitened  for 
upwards  of  two  miiesr  Atftv«  in  the  afternoon  we 
lE^rriyed  at  ^le  banks  of  another  lake,  wh«n  it  again 
tJijreatened  rain  ;  and  we  had  already  be«n  sufficiemly 
wetted  in  tke  couii^e  of  the  day^  t0  look  witli  compla- 
ceivi^  towards  a  repetitlpn  of  it  t  w^  a«ctM*clingly  fix- 
ed! Miiir  sked)  the  rain  continuing' wttlvg^At  violence 
tl^agklhe  remainder  of  the  day  »  i^  w««^  therdor^^ 
,d([0^9nin«iidr  ^^t  we  should  s^p  here  iov  tl^  nights  '> 
;  tki  the  coiisse  nf  tlie  day  we  pissed  tMree  Winter 
^utM';  they  eonsistod  of  low  waJIs,  with  e  ridge^palei 
cowered  wirlv  the  branches  pf  the  CSahadian  baUam* 
tree.  One  of  my  men  had  a  violent  pain  in  his  knee, 
^nd  I  asked  the  guides  to  take  a  share  of  hii^buMeii, 
eslh^y  J^ad  nothing  to  carry  but  their  beaver  robes, 
f^nfi&iHiws  und  arrows^  but  they  could  not  be  m«ide  toi 
|ind<^rst»9d  «i|  word  of  my  request. 

Sat%frdkif  ^«  hx  four  this  morning  I  arose  from  my 
bed^  such  as  it  was.  As  we  must  have  been  in  a  most 
unfortunate  predicament,  if  our  guides  should  have 
deserted  «f  in  the  night,  by  way  of  security,  I  pro- 
posed %q  th9  youtig^st  of  them  to  sleep  witk  mei  and 


'm 


he  retdilf  coai«nte4.  Thew  ^o|^1iiiv«  noxKnreriii^ 
^^  tbvir  bcfKvev  gAnneiits,  nd  tlHit  of  my  cdrnpt^ 
^iim  m^  a^nctti  df  vermin.  I,  liowerer)  tpretd  it 
undeftui*  HOd^iMillllhiglikicl  down  upon  it.  wecofered 
^niBseNm  wtclitiifVcttmMct*eloi^»    My  coitt|>«ttbii'^ 

«ritiiffed<mMPtHwiiiyiiMflMe  of  smeUiiig^  ow^yoiV^irfthlft 
^ifiMingv  tkraAtttlMd  t& Im^iTEii^  my  mt»f>%airth«e 
i«e*iii)ciiiieiM:ei  yitldbd/ta)i»y}fii&%^ef'<imdii'|iAi«ediiL 
^iittKi.i0f60iii»d.-l»ep08eb.l^Bi  a  ri/  .  ♦ttr»-v  x-'f^3\>s  ni»fii 
y^J  toQktti«leadittioui»ntei^i«ihlM|]d|ni^y«i^ 
lit'llrdiP  ^  cioaar  ^&  b(nsichi6«  o£  lie  ii»et -^iMIoir^  sub- 
timijed  «o-l«ttte  upon  tliaii^  d W«  prbceedMi  #£tll^i^ 
|M^ild«.expeditlmif  t^emigh^klevdieiNi^^  liilib'l^ 
UttltfUndet'Ki^Boil  i:  tlDe  hitgcr  tveeti  tnicf  «fi4itfer(ir 
fcindvM -At  lialf<pate>eigkt<  wfi  foUmpoh^iie  f^ad^^^^ 
ivt  fint  iiitctdtdt|i  hA:r^itidQeli^)hM^jiwii^^ 
ttid  mint  be^iOimtcr  JbbaiiitHkt  svMob  W  iUilif:;ii;A»Q|. 
Icd<r    THiB  Wi6rt-foiw|rrivii#i^t^too  ifti^hi^riiii^ 
faig  through  II  v«lb^.  WelmdiiQi  moftlH     atiff^ 
ter  iineo  our  «ttcaampiiuBtit  of  lj»t  nighti  iinditii«^ 
we  were  afflicted  mitii  Tiolentthkil^  the  Hv»r  wMrRt 
ftU€h  a  distance  ftom^uai  and  ^tiiie   dfia^diilnfeo^lt  sa 
teng  and  steepi  that  we  Wtoe  compelledslo  i\^m^n^ 
fied  with  catering  our  }oiiging]t0dfttttfmiifd»iti  ^1^ 
appeafic^jtt^  b^inor|p<«)ai(^tt4n>  therflw^  )lei!^  tlmd  at 
^•^idiseh»irg)^  The  Wiaar  aocotiiiti^tiiat  ifriiiffuivM^ 
blft^foft iheir  Hi&anoci,  i%  I  belibvey / perfied^ioorr^.. 

Oitf^  guidiss^now  totd  UH  that  asltlMgnMed.  ^wltofiirery 
gOQ^  aiMlvvHeB  tracedy  they  ^wimiId)praooed(<«#iiiibvii, 
the  nftxt  tribe  that  we  were  comitigte  ^  "ma  iMbtiiat* 
^on  waa  ofa  very  Unplelaiint  natnrelp  asCit  would 
have  been  easy  £»*  tfaenito  turU!fiffi4hifeofJMKlIal  an 
hundred  yards  from>  us v  and)  w|ieftliw3tfiuidxP^aed 
Ihenm  to  Fetum  hotn&.  I  pmposed  thai  onciofi]^ 
ahoiild  remain  with  as»j  While  t£w4»o£ni|r  pebpte  shbold 
leaVa  their  loads  behind  and  aocon^any)  tlie^  other  to« 
the  lodges.  But  they  wonl4  lat  stay  to-hear  our  per* 
suasions,  and  were  soon  out  of  sight* 

I  now  desired  the  Cancro  to  leave  his  burden,  take^ 
ft  small  quantity  of  provision,  with  hia  An&a«iulhlaibK 

EC  a 


143 


Journal  of  a  Voyagig  through  ft) 


ket,  and  follow  me.    I  also  told  my  men  to  come  otf 
as  fast  as  they  could,  and  that  I  would  wait  for  them 
as  soon  as  I  had  formed  an  acquaintance  with  the  n*- 
tives^of  the  country  before  ua.     We  accordingly  fol- 
lo^ycd  Qur  guides  with  aU  the  cxpedito^  In  our  pow- 
er, but  di4  ^ot  overtake  them  tiU.  Wft  owne  tc  a  fami- 
lyof  ii^tives,  coni^^ny  of  one  man,  two  women, 
and  sixphiWren,  with  whom  we, found, then*.   :Thes« 
peppif  t>?ti-ayed,  no  signs  of ,  fip^r  ivi  <Hir  appeAnmce, 
and  the  man  willingly  ^ppversed  with^  my  interpreter, 
to  whom  he^  made  himself  jnort  intelligiMe*  than  our 
guides  had;been  able  to   do.    Tihey,  however,  had 
informed  him  <>r  the  object  of  pwr  iwtrney.    He 
pgin.fxjd  put  to  us  one  of  his, ,  wi  ws„  iWlw  Wft*.  %  native 
^  fhe  spa-coast,  ^h^ch  v*9^not'ft  Tery:  great,  diatftace* 
from^usp    This  woman,  wap  .moisei  i^ipiiMd  toi  corpu- 
l^^cy  f h|ui  any  we  ha4  yet;  seem -^m^A  ol loin  i»tamVe, 
with  an  ob|ong  ^kqc,;  gr^y  eyef,  a«4iai  Oatri^h  nose* 
§j^  was  decorated  with  ornam(?nta  of  y^om  fcinds^ 
such  as  large  blue  beada»  either  pendaojt  froim  her 
eari^,  encircling  her  neck,  or   braided,  in  her  hair  r^ 
she  also  wore  bracelets  of  bras?,  copper  and  horn>' 
Her  garments   consisted   of  a  kind  of  tjunic,  which 
was   covered  with   a  robe  of  matted  bark,  fringe^ 
round  the. bottom  with  »k(nof  the  9ea  ottw.*    Node  oC 
tl^^  women  whom  I  had  jieeniainee^  w*  toroMed  the: 
mp^mtaip^  wqr^  thist  kind  of<  tunie^;  ^Kftir  rblankbts  be- 
ing .m^jrely  ,giqt  round  the  wft»t»    ^0  had  learned 
the  language  of;  her  husband'^  tribe,  and  confirmed 
this  account,    that  we  were  at  no  'great  distance  frorn^ 
the  seaf     They  were  c^  their  way,  she  said,  to  the 
great  river  to.^sb.     Age  seemed  to   be  an  object  of 
griei^tveneraUonftmong  these  people,  for  they  carried  an 
old  woman  by  turpd  on  their  backs,  who  was  quite  blind 
andjnfirm,  from  the  very  advanced  period  of  her  life* 
Our  people  having  joined  us  and  rested  themselves, 
I^reqjULested  our  guides  to  proceed,  when  the  elder  of 
thi^m  told  me  that  he  should  not  go  any  further,  but 
that  these  people  would  send  a  boy  to  accompany  hi& 
bcother,iiuid  I  began  to  think  myself  rather  fortu- 
nate, Uiat  ,we  were  not  deserted  by  them  all.> 


J/orih'Weii  Continent  of  Amitrtca.        S48 

About  nooti  we  'psiritd,  and  in  two  hotirs  we  came 
fip  with  two  men  and  their  families  :  when  we  first 
saw  them  they  were  nitting  down,  as  if  to  rest  them- 
selves ;  bnt  no  sooner  did  they  perceive  us  than  they 
ros«'  up  and  seized  f heir  arm!(*  The  boys;  who'  Were 
bchiiid  us  immediately  tin  forwards  and  spdke  to 
them^  when  they  laid  by  their  arms,  and  received  us 
asfrtdndsr  Thtfyhtid'heeit  eating  green  bt;rriei  and 
drittd  ifith*;'  Wt  had/  indeed^  statx^ely  joined  tW^em^ 
wheiii^;  ^romiui'  aiid '  a  boy  6ame  'fh>m  the  river  with 
w^iterv^  i^hitBh  th^J^ry  hOspitiftly  gitW  ut  to  dHpk. 
TkA  pibople  4}f  this'  |krt3r'  had  a '  Very  sickly  appttar- 
ahde,  whicli>  might  have  be^  th^ '  cotlsequ^nct  of  dis- 
easeyo?  that  itSdlehc^  'ivhiiih  is  so' natural  to  them^ 
or>olboth«  One  of  the^  wOMleA  had  a  tattooed  line 
aloQg  the  chin^  ofthe  samtilen^hat  her  mouth. 

^IThe  ladsiioW  informed  me  th^c  they  would  go  no 
fuptber/'bu&tliatt^iesemcti  w^uld  take  their  places  f 
and  theypiarfecd  from  their  families  with  as  little  appa> 
rent  com^ernvAs  if  they  were  entire  strangers  to 
each  other;  One  of  them  was  very  well  understood 
by  my  interpreter,  and  had  resided  among  the  na» 
tives  of  the  sQa-coasty  whom  he  had  left  but  a  Ihort 
time.  Accordinjg  tp  his  informatirn,  we  werte  ap- 
proaching a  river,  *  which  was  neither  large  nor  long, 
but  whose  banks  areinh^brted;  and  th^t  iti  the^bay 
which  the  sea  forms  at  the  moiith  of-  ^,  ft  great  wood- 
en canoe,  with-  White  people,  arrives  about  the  time 
when  the  leares  begin  to  grow:  I  presufiie  it^  the 
early  part  of  May.  ■'" 

After  we  parted  with  the  la<st  people,  Wte  came  to"^ 
an  uneven,  hilly,  and  swampy  country,  through 
which  our  way  was  impeded  by  a  considerable  Dum- 
ber of  fallen  trees.  At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  were 
overtaken  by  a  heavy  shower  of  rain  and  htUlV- and 
being  at  the  same  time  very  much  fatigued,  we  en- 
camped for  the  night  near  a  small  creek.  Our  course, 
till  we  came  to  the  river,  was  about  south-west  ten- 
miles,  and  then  west  twelve  or  fourteen  miles.  I' 
thought  it:  prudent  by  way  of  security,  to  submit  to 
the  same  inconveniences!  Uave  already  de^ctrbed^ and' 


shared  the  bearer  robe  of  one  of  mgr  ^^iiides  dormg  the 
night. 

Sunday  7»  I  vaa  so  biiiiiy  employed  in  collecting 
intclUgence  from  our  conductors,  that  I  Utt  night  k>r- 
Ifot  to  wkid  up  mf  time-piece,  and  it  was  the  only  in^ 
•taQ<:e  of  tuch  an  act  of  negligence  tlnce  I  left  Fort 
Chepewyan,  on  the  1 1  th  of  latit  October.  At  Ave  we 
ilttittod  4>ur  station,  and  proceeded  across  two  moun<. 
SainBt  covered  with  spruce,  poplar,  white  birch,  and 
Other  trees.  Wc  then  descended  into  a  level  country, 
Srhere  we  found  a  good  road,  thr  ugh  woods  of  cy- 
IHress.  We  then  came  to  two  sm  ^ill^kes,  at  the  dis- 
tante  of  about  fourteen  miles.  Course  about  west. 
Through  them  t^e  rlv<er  passes,  and  our  road  kept  in 
»  paciudkl  line,  with  it  on  a  range  <kf  elevated  ground. 
On  observing  some  peqple  before  us,  put  guides  has* 
^cned  to  meet  them,  and  on  their  approach,  one  of 
them  stepped  forward  ^ith  an  axe  in  kis  liandf  Tbia 
party  cpnsisted  only  of  a  man,  two  women,  and  the 
same  number  of  children.  Tbe  eldest  of  the  womea^ 
who  probably  was  the  man's  mother,  was  engaged, 
when  we  joined  them,  in  clearing  a.  circular  spot,  of 
«bout  five  feet  in  diameter,  of  the  weeds  that  infested 
it ;  nor  did  our  arrival  interrupt  hei^  employment, 
^bich  was  sacred  to  the  memory  ojf  Uie  dead.  The 
spiot  t|9  whiph  her  pions  care  was  devoted*  contained 
tb^  g^ve  of  an  husbaad,  and  a  son,  an4  whenever 
9he  passed  this  way,  she  always  stopped  to  pay  thia 
tribute  of  affection* 

,  As  soon  as  we  had  taken  our  morning  allowance^ 
wfi  a^t  forwards,  and  about  three  we  perceived  more 
i^ople,  be^xie  us.  After  some  alarm  we  came  up. 
wj^b  tip^ni^;  TJiey  insisted  of  seven  men,  as  many 
WPiipi^n,  and  sq,vet^  children^  Here  I  was  under  the 
aepessijty  of  procuring  another  guide,  and  we  conti-* 
nued  our  route  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  till  six 
in  the  evening,  when  we  crossed  it.  It  was  knee 
deepi  and  about  an  hundred  yards  over.  I  wished 
now  to  stop  for  the  night,  as  we  were  all  of  us  very 
much  fatigued,  but  our  guide  recommended  us  t6 
'  proceed  onwards  to  a  family  of  hi&  friendS)^  at  a  small 


iJ'ortluWeat  Continefit  of  America, 


34K 


daring  the 

i  coUecting 
It  night  lor- 
^c  only  in<- 
1  left  Fort 
At  five  we 
two  mouii- 
\  birch,  and 
irel  countrf, 
roods  of  cy- 
I,  at  the  dit- 
ibout  west, 
■oad  kepi  in 
bted  ground, 
guides  has^ 
)ach,  one  of 

e%  (^d  ^^^ 
the  womea^ 
as  engaged > 
liar  spot)  of 
hat  infested 
m{doyiaent> 
dead.  The 
\,  contained 
4  whenever 
to  pay  thia 

aUowance^ 
ceived  more 
ve  came  uj^* 
^n,  as  many 
IS  under  the 
d  we  conti'' 
Lver,  till  six 
was  knee 
I  wished 
L  of  us  very 
ended  us  i& 
s^  at  a  small 


distance  from  thence,  where  we  arrived  at  half  past 
seven.  He  had  gone  forward,  and  procured  us  a 
welcome  and  quiet  reception.  There  being  a  net 
hanging  to  dry,  I  requested  the  man  to  prepare  and 
set  it  in  the  water,  which  he  did  with  great  expedition, 
and  then  ]^re8ented  me  with  a  few  stmatf,  dried  AaIi. 
Our  course  was  south-west  about  twelve  miles,  part  of 
which  Was  an  eKtensive  sWMn'p^  that  was  seldom  lest 
than  knee  deep.  In  the  couri»^  of  the  Afternoon  we' 
had  several  showers  of  rain.  1  had  attempted  to  take 
an  altitude,  but  it  was  plist  meridian*  Tht  Watei*  of 
the  river  before  the  lodge  was  quite  sftill,  and  expand-: 
ed  itself  into  the  form  of  a  ttmall  lake*  in  many  olhtof*^ 
placet),  indeed,  it  had  a«w\imed  the  same  form. 

Mondmj  8.  It  rallied  throughout  the  niglit,  ttnd  it 
was  seven  in  the  morning  before  thie  weather  wowM 
allow  us  to  proceed.  The  guide  bi'ought  me  flvo 
small,  boiled  fish,  in  a  platttr  made  of  bark  ;  some  iA 
them  were  of  the  carp  kind,  and  the  rest  of  a  speciei 
for  which  I  am  not  qualified  to  furnish  a  name.  Hav^ 
ing  dried  our  clothes,  we  set  off  on  our  march  about 
eight,  and  our  guide  very  cheerfully  continued  to  ae* 
company  us  ;  but  he  was  not  altogether  so  ihtelligibfo 
as  his  predecessors  in  ou?  service.  We  learned froiit 
him,  however,  that  this  lake  through  virhich  the  rWtJf 
passes,  extends  to  the  foot  of  the  mdudtain,  alvd  tftat 
he  expected  to  meet  nine  inen,  of  a  tribe  4v1tt<^h  i^^ 
habits  the  north  side  of  the  river.     -'>  ^^^'  ^^^^^  ^A*. 

In  this  part  of  our  journey,  we  '^tr<t  sllrprized  With 
the  appearance  of  several  reguUr  basohs,  ^tntid'-  of 
them  furnished  with  water,  and  the  6ther«  empty  1 
their  slope  from  the  edge  to  the  bottom  formed  tiii'tthJ' 
gle  of  about  forty-five  degi'ces,  and  thdr  pferif)^dt6tt<' 
iar  depth  was  about  twelve  feeti  Thoafe  tSi^  d^lairli- 
ed  water,  discovered  gravel  near  their^edgiA',"W^hlfi 
the  empty  ones  were  covered  With  grask  arid  life*%d| 
among  which  we  discovered  mustard  and  mint.  Yfiet'd 
were  also  several  places  from  whence  the  water  appeitt% 
to  have  retired,  which  arc  covered  with  the  st^e'scjil 
and  herbage.  t^'yv^n^   d')orfr 

We  now  proceeded  along  a  very  uneven  cd^iit^f  i 


tfKP^"' 


^846 


Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


\ 


y.  I 


the  upper  parts  of  which  were  covered  with  pop- 
lars, a  little  under-wood,  and  plenty  of  grass :  the  in- 
tervening vallies  were  watered  with  rivulets.  From 
these  circumstances,  and  the  general  appearalice  of 
vegetation,  I  could  not  account  for  the  apparent  ab- 
sence of  animals  of  every  kind*  * 

At  two  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  largest 
river  we  had  seen,  since  we  left  our  canoe,  and  which 
forced  its  way  between  and  oyer  the  huge  stones  that 
opposed  its  current.  Our  course  was  about  south- 
south-west  sixteen  mil^s  along  the  river,  which  might 
here  justify  the  title  of  a  lake.  The  road  was  good, 
and  our  next  course  which  was  west  by  south,  brought 
us  onward  ten  miles,  where  we  encamped,  fatigued 
and  wet,  it  having  rained  three  parts  of  the  day.  This 
river  abounds  witli  fish,  and  must  fall  into  the  greater 
river  further  down  than  we  had  extended  our  voy- 

Tuesday  9.  A  heavy  and  continued  rain  fell  through 
great  part  of  the  night,  and  as  we  were  in  some  mea.- 
sure  exposed  to  it,  time  was  required  jto  dry  our 
clothes  ;  so  that  it  was  half  past  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing before  we  were  ready  to  set  out.  As  we  founcl 
the  country  so  destitute  of  game?  and  foreseeing  the 
difficulty  of  procuring  provisions  for  ovf;  return,  I 
thought  it  prudent  to  conceal  half  a  bag  of  pemmi- 
can  ;  having  sent  off  the  Indians,  and  all  my  people 
except  two,  we  hurried  it  under  the  fire  pla.ce,  as  we 
had  done  on  a  foriner  occasion.  We  soon  overtook 
our  party,  and  continued  our  route  along  JLhc  river  or 
lake.  About  twelve  I  had  an  altitude,  but  it  was  in- 
accurate from  the  cloudiness  of.  the  weather.  We 
continued  our  progress  till  five  in  the  afternoon,  when 
the  water  began  to  narrow,  and  in  about  half  an  hour 
we  came  to  a  ferry,  where  we  found  a  small  raft.  At 
this  time  it.  began  to  thunder,  and  torrents  of  rain 
soon  followed,  which  terminated  our  journey  for  the 
day.  Our  course  was  about  south,  twenty-one  miles 
from  the  lake  already  mentioned.  We  now  disco- 
vered tops  of  the  mountains,  covered  with  snow,  over 
Tery  high  intermediate  land.     We  killed  a  whitehead 


u 


-+•■1, 


North-West  Continent  of  Am§ric(U        34y 


I  with  pop- 
\<s^ :  the  in- 
ets.  From 
pearaYice-of 
pparent  afe- 

,  tht  largest 
;,  and  which 
stones  that 
^bout  south- 
which  might 
kd  was  good, 
mth,  brought 
»ed,  fatigued 
le  day.  This 
)  the  greater 
led  our  voy- 

k  fell  through 
n  some  mea.- 
to   dry  our 
I  the   morn- 
A.8  we  found 
)reseeing  the 
-r,  return,  I 
y  of  pemmi- 
U  my  people 
place,   as  we 
)on  overtook 
5  the  river  or 
)ut  it  was  in- 
eather.     We 
ernoon,when 
;  half  an  hour 
nail  raft.  At 
•rents  of  rain 
urney  for  the 
ity-one  miles 
now  disco- 
h  snow,  over 
1  a  whitehead 


and  a  grey  eagle,  and  three  gr^y  partridges  ;  we  saw 
also  two  otters  in  the  river,  and  several  beaver  lodges 
along  it.  When  the  rain  ceased,  we  casght  a  few 
small  fish,  and  repaired  the  raft  for  the  service  of  the 
ensuing  day. 

Wednesday  JO.  At  an  early  hour  of  this  morning 
we  prepared  to  cross  the  water.  The  traverse  is  about 
thirty  yards,  and  it  required  five  trips  to  get  us  all 
over.  At  a  short  distance  below,  a  small  river  falls  - 
in,  that  comes  from  the  direction  in  which  we  were 
proceeding.  It  is  a  rapid  for  about  three  hundred 
yards,  when  it  expands  into  a  lake,  along  which  our 
road  conducted  us,  and  beneath  a  range  of  beautiful 
hills,  covered  with  verdure.  At  half  past  eight  we 
came  to  the  termination  of  the  lake,  where  there  were- 
two  hotises  that  occupied  a  most  delightful  situation, 
and  as  they  contained  their  necessary  furniture,  it 
seemed  probable  that  their  owners  intended  shortly  to 
return.  Near  diem  were  several  graves  or  tombs,  to 
which  the  natives  are  particularly  attentive,  and  ne- 
ver suffer  any  herbage  to  grow  upon  them.  In  about 
half  an  hour  we  reached  a  place  where  there  were 
two  temporary  huts,  that  contained  thirteen  men,  with 
whom  we  fowid  our  guide  who  had  preceded  us  in 
order  to  secure  a  good  reception.  The  buildings  were 
detached'  from  each  other,  and  conveniently  placed 
for  fishing  in  the  lake.  Their  inhabitants  called  them;- , 
selves  Sloua-cuss-Dinais,  which  denomination,  as  far 
as  my  interpreter  could  explain  it  to  me,  I  understood 
to  mean  Red-fish  Men.  They  were  much  more 
cleanly,  healthy,  and  agreeable, in  their  appearance, 
than  any  of  the  natives  whom  we  had  passed ;  never-. 
theless,  I  have  no  doubt  that  they  are  the  same  people, 
from  their  name  alone,  which  is  of  the  Ghepewyan 
language.  My  interpreters,  however,  understood  ve- 
ry little  of  what  they  said,  so  that  1  did  not  expect 
much  information  from  them.  Some  of  them  said  it 
was  a  journey  of  four  days  to  the  sea,  and  others  were 
of  opinion  that  it  was  six  ;  and  there  were  among 
them  that  extended  it  to  eight ;  but  they  all  uniform- 
ly declaimed  they  had  been  to  the  coast.   They  did  not 


34^ 


youmal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


entertain  the  smallest  apprehension  of  danger  fro»% 
us,  and,  when  "we  discharged  Qur  pieces,  expressed 
no  sensation  but  that  of  astonishment,  which,  as  may 
be  supposed,  we  proportionably  increased  when  o»e 
of  the  hunters  shot  an  eagle,  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tariCe.  At  twelve  I  obtained  an  altituele,  which  made 
our  latitude  53-  4.  ?2.  novth^  being  not  so  far  south  as 
I  expected.  ,^r 

X  now  went,  accompapied  by  one  of  my  men,  an 
interpreted)  and  the  gnide,  to  visit  seme  huts  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile. ,  On  our  arrival  the  inhabitants 
presented  us  with  a  dish  of  boiled  trout,  of  a  small 
kind.  The  fish  would  have  been  excellent  if  it  bad 
not  tasted  of.  the  kettle,  which  was  made  of  the  bark 
of  the. white  spruce,  and  pf  the  dried  grass  ynxh 
which  it  was  boiled.  Besifdes  t^iskind  of  trout,  red 
and  white  carp  and  jub^ayf^^e^mly^sh  I  saw  as  the 
produce  of  these  water.w ..^jjijj  j,^^;  ^v/^  f;  • 
t  These  people  appeared  tq,  jive  ift  ^  state  of  compa- 
rative comfort :  they  t^ike  a  greater  share  in  the  la- 
bor of  the  women,  than  is  common  among  the  savage 
tribes,  and  are,  as  I  was  informed,  content  with  one 
wife.  Though  this  circumstance  may  proceed  rather 
from  the  diSculty  of  pro»iring  si^sistence,  than  any 
ha.bitua.1  aversion  to  polygamy. 

My  present  guide  nxm  informed  me,  that  he  could 
not  proceed  any  further,  a:;d  i  accordingly  engag- 
ed t^^  of  these  people  to  succeed  him  in  that  of- 
fijce, ;  but  when  they  desired  us  to  proceed  on  the 
beaten  path  without  them,  as  they  could  not  set  off  tiH 
the  following  day,  I  determined  to  stay  that  night,  in 
order  to  accommodate  myself  to  their  convenience.  I 
distributed  some  trifles  among  the  wives  and  children 
of  the  men  who  were  to  be  our  future  guides,  and  re- 
turned to  my  people.  We  came  back  by  a  different 
way,  and  passed  by  two  buildings,  erected  between 
four  trees,  and  about  fifteen  feet  from  the  ground, 
which  appeared  to  me  to  be  intended  as  magazines 
for  winter  piovisions.  At  four  in  the  afternoon,  we 
proceeded  with  considerable  expedition,  by  the  side 
of  the  lake>  till  six,  when  w&  came  to  the  end  of  it; 


ang^r  fro*^ 
y  expressed 
ich,  as  may 
d  when  o»e 
idcrable  dis- 
-wliiGh  made 
\  far  south  aa 

Tky  men,  an 
,e  h«t&  at  the 
>  inhabitants 
t,  of  a  SUB  all 
entif  it  had 
&  of  the  bark 
i  grass  with 
of  trout,  red 
1 1  saw  as  the 

ate  of  compa- 
are  in  the  la- 
,ng  the  savage 
itent  -with  one 
ffCceed  rather 
nee,  than  any 

i 

that  he  could 
iingly  cngag- 
im  in  that  of- 
roceed  on  the 
I  not  set  offtitt 
that  night,  in 
nvenience.    I 
s  and  children 
uides,  and  re- 
by  a  different 
;Gted  between 
the  ground, 
as  magazines 
afternoon,  wc 
1,  by  the  side 
the  end  of  it* 


Korth'West  Continent  of  America*        34© 

vre  then  struck  off  through  a  much  less  beaten  track, 
and   at  hulf  pait  seven  stopped  for   the  night.     Our 
course  wae  about  west-south-west  thirteen  miles,  and 
west  six  miles. 

Thursday  1 1'.  I  passed  a  most  uncomfortable  nf  jhc ; 
the  Srst  part  of  it  1  was  tormented  with  flies,  and  in 
the  lattier  deluged  with  rain.  In  the  morning  the  wea- 
ther cleared,  and  as  soon  m  our  clothes  were  dried, 
we  proceeded  through  a  nwyrass.  This  part  of  the 
country  had  been  laid  waste  by  fire,  aiKl  the  fallen 
trees  'adjfed  t6  the  pairi  and  perplexity  of  our  way.  An 
high,  ro<ji^  Hd^e  stretched  a'oag  our  '  '..  Though 
the  rain  returned,  we  continued  ourprogjcsn  till  noon, 
when  otir  guides  took  to  some  trees  for  shelter.  We 
then  spread  our  oil-cloth,  and,  with  some  difikulty, 
made  a  fire.  About  two  thtx  rain  ceased,  when  w« 
continued  our  journey  through  the  same  kind  of 
country  which  we  had  hitherto  passed.  At  half  past 
three  we  came  in  &ight  of  a  lake ;  the  land  at  the  same 
time  gradually  rising  to  a  range  of  mountains  whose 
tops  were  covered  with  snow.  We  noon  after  observed 
two  fresh  tracks,  which  seenied  to  s^irprise  our  guides^ 
but  they  supposed  them  to  have  lleen  made  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  country,  who  were  come  into  t^irspart 
of  it  to  fish.  At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  were  so  wi^^and 
cold  (for  it  had  at  intervals  continued  to  rain)  that  we 
were  compelled  to  stc^  for  the  night.  We  passed  sev^ii' 
rivulets  and  a  creek  in  this  day's  journey.  As  I;  iiad 
hitherto  regulated  our  course  by  the  sun,  I  coUld  not 
form  an  accurate  judgment  of  this  routie,  as  Wd  had 
not  been  favored  with  a  sight  of  it  duriitg  thetia;^J- 
but  I  imagine  it  to  have  been  nearly  in  the  sam«^  tiirfeb- 
tion  as  that  of  yesterday.  Our  distance  couldhbthavis' 
been  less  than  fifteen  miles.  -l 

Our  conductors  now  began  to  complain  of  our  mode 
of  travelling,  and  mentioned  their  intention  of  leaving, 
us  ;  and  ray  interpreters,  who  were  equally  dissatisfi- 
ed, added  to  our  perplexity  by  their  conduct.  Be- 
sides, these  circumstances,  and  the  apprehension  that 
the  distance  from  the  sea  might  be  greater  than  I  had 
imatgined,  it  beca;Tiu  a  matter  of  real  necessity  that 


(mn-- 


550  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  tht 

we  shouUV.begin  to  diminish  the  consun>ption  cf  our 
provisions,  and  to  subsist  upon  two-thirds  of  our  al- 
lowance ',  a  proposfttioin  which  was  as  unwelcome  to 
my  peoplC)  as  it  was  i^ecessary  to  be  put  into  immcf 
diatii  practice*      ■  fi-i. 

Friday  12,  At  lia(f  past  five  this  morning  we  pro-* 
needed  pn  our  journey  y,  with  cloudy  weather,  and  when 
we  <;aiBr  to  the  end  bf  the  kike,  several  tracks  were 
visible  that  led  to  thtf»side  of  the  water  ;  from  which 
circumstance  I  concluded,  ^hat  some  of  the  natives 
w«re  fishing  along  the  banks  of  it.  /This  lake  is  not 
inore  than .  three  miles  long,  and  iibout  one  broad. 
We  tUen  passed  four  smaller  lakeSv^^c  ^^o  first  being 
on  our  right,  and  those  which  "preceded  on  our  left. 
Asxnall  river  also,  flowed  across  our  way  from  the 
right,  and  we  passed  it  over  a  bes^ver-dam.  A  larger  lake 
now  iLpp'^ed  on  our  right,.and  the  mountains  on  each 
side  of  us  were  covered  with  snow.  We  afterwards 
came  to  another  lake  on  our. right,  and  soonreached  a 
river,  which  our  guides  informed  us  was  the  same 
that  we  had  passed  on  a  raft.  They  said  it  was  navi- 
gable for  canoes  from  the  great  river,  except  two  ra- 
pi  Is,  one  of  which  we  had  seen.  At  this  place  it  is 
upwa^s  of  twenty  yards  across,  and  deep  water.  One 
ofjj^ie; guides  swam^^  over  to  fetch  a  raft  which  was  on 
thia; opposite  side;  and  having  increased  its  dimensi- 
o^y  we  cro&sed  at,  two  trips,  except  four  of  the  men, 
who  preferred  swimming. 

Here  our  conductors  renewed  their  menace  of  leav- 
ing u«(,  and  X  was  obliged  to  give  them  several  articles, 
and  promise  more,  in  order  to  induce  them  to  conti- 
nue till  we  could  procure  other  natives  to  succeed 
them.^  At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  forded  the  same 
ri>er>^nd  being  with  the  guides  at  some  distance  be- 
fore the  rest  of  the  people,  I  sat  down  to  wail  for  them, 
and  no  sooner  did  they  arrive,  than  the  former  set  off 
with  so  much  speed,  that  my  attempt  to  follow  them 
proved  unsuccessful.  One  of  my  Indians,  however, 
who  had  no  load,  overtook  them,  when  they  excused 
themselves  to  him  by  declaring,  that  their  sole  motive 
foi   leaving  us  was,  to  prevent  the  people,  whom  they 


he. 

►tion  cf  our 
8  of  our  al- 
welcome  to 
into  immei* 

ling  we  pro-* 
er,  and  when 
:racks  were 

from  which 
fthe  natives 
i  lake  IS  not 
:  one  broad, 
ro  first  being 
on  our  left, 
ray  from  the 
A  larger  lake 
ains  on  each 
e  afterwards 
)on  reached  a 
as  the  same 

it  was  navi- 
xept  two  ra- 
Ls  place  it  is 
water.  One 
vhich  was  on 

its  dimensi- 

of  the  men, 

inaceof  leav- 
veral  articks, 
lem  to  conti- 
s  to  succeed 
ded  the  same 

distance  be- 
vait  itbr  them, 
^rmer  set  oif 

follow  them 
BUis,  however, 
they  excused 
ir  sole  motive 

,  whom  they 


North'West  Continent  of  America,        351 

expected  to  find,  from  shooting  their  arrows  at  us.  At 
seven  o'clock,  however,  we  were  so  fatigued,  that  we 
encamped  without  them  :  the  mountains  cov»^red  with 
snow,  now  appeared  to  be  directly  before  us.  As  we 
were  collecting  wood  for  our  fire,  we  discovered  a 
cross  road,  where  it  appeared  that  people  had  passed 
within  seven  or  eight  days.  Iti'- short,  our  situation 
was  such  as  to  afford  a  just  cause  of  Sdartn,  dnd  that 
of  the  people  with  me  was  of  a  tiitttr^  to  defy" itilme- 
diate  alleviation.  It  was  necessary,  hbWevei',  for  me 
to  attempt  it ;  and  I  rested  my  pbinci^les  of  4nc«^- 
ragement  on  a  representation  of  oui^  past  perplexities 
and  unexpected  relief,  and  endeavored  to  excite  in 
them  the  hope  of  similar  good  fortune.  I^  sti^ed  to 
them,  that  we  could  not  be  at  a  great  distance  from 
the  sea,  and  that  there  were  but  few  natives  to  p&ss, 
till  we  should  arrive  atHohg  those,  w^ho,  being  accus- 
tomed to  visit  the  sea  coast,  and.  having  seen  white 
people,  would  be  disposed  to  treat  us  with  kindness. 
Such  was  the  general  ienor  of  the  reasoning  I  employ- 
ed on  the  occasion,  and  I  wa^  happy  to  find  that  it 
was  not  offered  in  Vain*    >-itv**  i*^  ^'*  t/^^^r  . 

The  weather  had  beeh  dlbiid^  tilT' three  in  the  a^<fer- 
noon,  when  the  sun  appeared ;  but  suriHJunded,  as  we 
were,  with  snow-^clad  mountainiy  the  air  beoiime  so 
cold,  that  the  violence  of  our  exercise  was  not  si^Iicient 
to  produce  a  comfortable  ^gree  of  wanttti>.f  :  Ouif 
course  to-day  was  from  west  to  souths  and  at'  leaist 
thirty-six  miles.  The  land  in  general^  was  very  barren 
and  stony,  and  lay  in  ridges,  with  cyprcss-trees  scatter- 
ed over  them.  We  passed  several  swamps,  where  we 
saw  nothing  to  console  us  but  a  few  tracks ^f  ^eei^i"' 

Saturday  13.  The  weather  this  mOrning  wa»^leftr, 
but  CDld,  and  our  scanty  covering  was  nbt  %uffkietit 
to  protect  us  from  the  severity  of  the  nights  -Abotit 
five,  after  we  had  warmed  ourselves  at  a  l«rg«  fire, 
we  proreeded  on  our  dubious  journey.  In  {^om  an 
hour  wc  came  to  the  edge  of  a  wood,  when  we  |»er- 
ceived  an  house,  situated  on  a  green,  spot,  and  by  the 
side  of  a  small  river.  The  smoke  that  issued  from 
it  informed  us  that  it  was  inhabited.    I  immediately 


352  yournal  of  a  Votfage  through  the 

pushed  forward  toward  this  mansion,  while  my  people 
were  in  such  a  state  of  alarm  that  they  followed  me 
with  the  utmost  reluctance.  On  looking  back  I  per- 
ctived  that  we  were  in  an  Indian  defile,  of  fifty  yards 
in  length.  I,  however,  was  close  upon  the  hous^  be- 
fore the  inhabitants  perceived  us,  when  the  women 
and  children  uttered  the  most  horrid  slirieks,  and  the 
only  man  who  appeared  to  be  with  them,  escaped  out 
of  a  back  door,  which  I  reached  in  time  to  prevent  the 
women  and  children  from  following  him.  The  man 
fled  with  all  his  speed  into  the  wood,  and  I  called  in 
vain  to  my  interpreters  to  speak  to  him,  but  they  were 
so  agitated  with  fear  as  to  have  lost  the  power  of  ut- 
terance. It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  distress  and 
alarm  of  these  poor  people,  who  believing  that  they 
were  attacked  by  enemies,  expected  an  immediate 
massacre,  which,  among  themselves,  never  fails  to 
follow  such  an  event* 

Our  prisoners  consisted  of  three  women,  and  seven 
cliildren,  which,  apparently  composed  thiee  families. 
At  length,  however,  by  our  demeanor,  and  our  pre- 
sents, we  contrived  to  dissipate  their  apprehensions. 
One  of  the  women  then  ini'orm«d  us,  that  their  peo- 
ple, with  several  others,  had  left  that  place  three  nights 
before,  on  a  trading  journey  to  a  tribe  whom  she  cal- 
led Annah,  which  is  the  naine  the  Chepewyans  give 
to  the  Knisteneaux,  at  the  distance  of  three  days.  She 
added  also,,  that  from  the  mountains  before  us,  which 
were  covered  with  snow,  the  sea  was  visible  ;  ami  ac- 
companied her  information  with  a  present  of  a  couple 
of  dried  fish.  We  now  expressed  our  desire  that  the 
man  might  be  induced  to  return,  and  conduct  u-s  in 
the  road  to  the  sea.>  indeed,,  it  was  not  long  be- 
fore he  discovered  himself  in  the  wood,  when  he  was 
assured,  both  by  the  women  ajid  onr  interpreters,  thai 
we  had  no  hostile  design-  against  him  ;  but  these  as- 
svurances  had  no  e&ct  ia  quieting  his  apprehensions. 
I  then  attempted  to  ga  tO'  him  alone,  and  showed  him 
a  knife,  beada^  ^«  ^  induce  him  to  come  tu  m,e,  but 
he,  in  return j  made  an  hostile  display  of  his  bovr  and 
arrows  ^  arad,.  having  for  a  time  exhiiiited  a  variety  of 


\e 


NorthAVest  Continent  of  America,        353 


:  my  people 
bllowed  me 
back  I  per- 
f  fifty  yards 
e  hous>i  be- 
the  women 
jiks,  and  the 
escaped  out 
I  prevent  the 
,  The  man 
I  I  called  in 
Lit  they  were 
lower  of  ut- 
distress  and 
ig  that  they 
I  immediate 
5ver  fails  to 

n,  and  seven 
it-ee  familits. 
ind  our  prc- 
prehensiotts. 
at  their  peo- 
three  nights 
lom  she  cal- 
jewyans  give 
ee  days.  She 
n'C  us,  which 
ble  ;  and  ac- 
it  of  a  couple 
esire  that  the 
conduct  u-s  in 
aot  long  be- 
when  he  was 
rpreters,  thait 
but  these  asr- 
>prehensions. 
I  showed  him^ 
LC  to  me,  but 
his  bow  and 
I  a  variety  of 


strange  antics,  again  disappeared.  However,  he  soon 
presented  himself  in  another  quarter,  and  after  a  suc- 
cession of  parleys  between  us,  he  engaged  lo  come 
and  accompany  us. 

While  these  negociations  were  proceeding,  I  pro- 
posed to  visit  the  fishing  machines,  to  which  the  wo- 
men readily  consented,  and  I  found  in  them  twenty 
small  fish,  such  as  trout,  carp,  and  jub,  for*  which  I 
gave  her  a  large  knife  ;  a  present  that  appeared  to  be 
equally  unexpected  and  gratifying  to  her.  Another 
man  now  came  towards  us,  from  an  hill,  talking  aloud 
from  the  time  he  appeared  till  ht  reached  us.  The 
purport  of  his  speech  was,  that  he  threw  himself  upon 
our  mercy,  and  we  might  kill  him  if  it  was  our  plea- 
sure, but  that  from  what  he  had  heard,  he  looked  ra- 
ther for  our  friendship  than  our  enmity.  He  was  an 
elderly  person,  of  a  decent  appearance,  and  I  gave 
him  some  articles  to  conciliate  him  to  us»  The  first 
man  now  followed  with  a  lad  along  with  hipi,  both  of 
whom  were  the  sons  of  the  old  man,  and,  on  his  ar- 
rival, he  gave  me  several  half-dried  fish,  which  I  con- 
sidered as  a  peace-offering.  After  some  conversation 
with  these  people,  respecting  the  country,  and  our 
future  progress  through  it,  we  retired  to  rest,  with 
sensations  very  different  from  those  with  v^hich  we 
had  risen  in  the  morning.  The  weather  had  beM)  ge- 
nerally cloudy  throughput  the  day,  and  wTiert  die  sun 
was  obscured,  extremely  cold  for  the  se'asoil/  Atrioon 
I  obtained  a  meridian  altitude,  which  g2|iye  52.  5iJ. 
53.  north  latitude.  I  likewise  took  time  iii  the  after- 
noon. 

Sunday  14.  This  morning  we  had  a  bright  sun, 
with  an  east  wind.  These  peope  examined  their  fishing 
machines,  when  they  found  In  them  a  great  number 
of  small  fish,  and  we  dressed  as  many  of  them  as  we 
''>ould  eat.  Thus  was  our  departure  retarded  until  se- 
ven, when  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  accompanied 
by  the  man  and  his  two  sons.  As  I  did  not  want  the 
younger,  and  should  be  obliged  to  feed  him,  I  request^ 
ed  of  his  father  to  leave  him,  for  the  pui-pose  of  fish- 
ing for  the  women.    He  replied,  that  they  were  ac- 

Gg2 


354  Journal  cfa  Voyage  through  the 

customed  to  fish  for  themselves,  and  that  I  need  not 
be  apprf^hensive  of  their  encroaching  upon  my  provi- 
fiions,  as  they  were  used  to  sustain  themselves  in 
their  joumies  on  herbs,  and  the  inner  tegument  of  the 
bark  of  trees,  for  the  stripping  of  which  he  had  a  thin 
piece  of  bone,  then  hri!vr:iny  by  his  side.  The  latter 
is  of  a  glutinous  ry^Xviy  of  a  clammy,  sweet  taste, 
and  is  generally  .  eic  ^d  by  the  more  interior  In- 
dians as  a  delicacj  rath'^r  than  an  article  of  com- 
mon food.  Our  guide  info.Aed  me  that  there  is  a 
short  cut  across  the  mountains,  but  as  there  was  no 
trace  of  a  road,  and  it  would  shorten  our  journey  but 
one  day,  he  should  prefer  the  beaten  way. 

We  accordingly  proceeded  along  a  lake,  west  five 
miles.  We  then  crossed  a  small  rivetv^^d  passed 
through  a  swanip,  about  south-west,  yhen  we  began 
gradually  to  ascend  for  some  time  till  we  gained  the 
summit  of  an  hill,  where  we  had  an  extensive  view  to 
the  south-east,  from  which  direction  a  considerable 
river  appeared  to  flow,  at  the  distance  of  about  three 
miles:  it  was  represented  to  me  as  being  navigable 
for  canoes.  The  descent  of  this  hill  was  more  steep 
than  its  ascent,  and  was  succeeded  by  another,, whose 
top,  though  not  so  elevated  as  the  last,  afforded  a  view 
of  the  range  of  mountains,  covered  with  snow,  which, 
according  to  the  intelligence  of  our  guide.,  terminates 
in  the  ocean.  We  now  left  a  small  lake  on  our  left, 
then  crossed  a  creek  running  out  of  it,  and  at  one  in 
the  afternoon  came  to  an  house,  of  the  same  construc- 
.  tion  and  dimensions  as  have  already  been  mentioned, 
but  the  materials  were  much  better  prepared  and 
finished.  The  timber  was  squared  on  two  sides,  and 
the  bark  taken  off"  the  two  others ;  the  ridge  pole  was 
also  shaped  in  the  same  manner,  extending  about 
eight  or  ten  feet  beyond  the  gable  end,  and  support- 
ing a  shed  over  the  door :  the  en^  of  it  was  carved 
into  the  similitude  of  a  snake's  head.  Several  hiero- 
glyphics and  figures  of  a  similar  workmanship,  and 
painted  with  red  earth,  decorated  the  interior  of  the 
building.  The  inhabitants  had  left  th^  house  but  a 
abort  time,  and  there  were  several  bags  or  bundles  in 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        355 


[  need  not 
my  provi- 
nselves  in 
tientofthe 
had  a  thin 
The  latter 
eet  taste, 
nterior  In- 
le  of  corn- 
there  is  a 
>re  was  no 
aurney  but 

,  west  five 
ind  passed 
we  began 
gained  the 
ive  view  to 
msiderable 
ibout  three 
]  navigable 
more  steep 
her,,  whose 
:ded  a  view 
ow,  which, 
terminates 
on  our  left, 
1  at  one  in 
,e  construc- 
mentioned, 
ipared  and 
sides,  and 
je  pole  was 
ling   about 
id  support- 
vas   carved 
^eral  hiero- 
mship,  and 
jrior  of  the 
louse  but  a 
•  bundles  in 


it,  which  I  did  not  suffer  to  be  disturbed.  Near  it 
were  two  tombs,  surrounded  in  a  neat  manner  with 
boards,  and  covered  with  bark.  Beside  them  several 
poles  had  been  erected,  one  of  which  was  squared, 
and  all  of  them  painted.  From  each  of  them  were 
suspended  several  rolls  or  parcels  of  bark,  and 
our  guide  gave  the  following  account  of  them; 
which,  as  far  as  we  could  judge  from  our  imperfect 
knowledge  of  the  language,  and  the  incidental  errors 
of  interpretation,  appeared  to  involve  two  different 
modes  of  treating  their  dea  ;  or  it  might  be  one  and 
the  same  ceremony,  which  we  did  not  distinctly  com- 
prehend :  at  all  events,  it  is  the  practice  of  these  peo- 
ple to  burn  the  bodies  of  their  dead,  except  the  larger 
bones,  which  are  rolled  up  in  bark  and  suspended 
from  poles,  as  I  have  already  described.  According 
to  the  other  account,  it  appeared  that  they  actually 
bury  their  dead ;  and  when  another  of  the  family  dies, 
the  remains  of  the  person  who  was  last  interred  are  ta- 
ken from  the  ^rave  and  burned,  as  has  been  already 
mentioned ;  so  that  the  members  of  a  family  are  thus 
successively  buried  and  burned,  to  make  room  for  each 
other ;  and  one  tomb  proves  sufficient  for  a  family 
through  succeeding  generations^  There  is  no  house 
in  this  country  without  a  tomb  in  its  vicinity.  Our 
last  course  extended  about  ten  miles. 

We  continued  our  journey  along  the  lake  before 
the  house,  and,  crossing  a  river  that  flowed  out  of  it, 
came  to  a  kind  of  bank,  or  weir,'  formed  by  the  na- 
tives, for  the  purpose  of  placing  their  fishing  ma- 
chines, many  of  which,  of  different  sizes,  were  lying 
on  the  side  of  the  river.  Our  guide  placed  one  of 
them,  with  the  certain  expectation  that  on  his  return 
he  should  find  plenty  of  fish  in  it.  We  proceeded 
nine  miles  further,  on  a  good  road,  west- south- west, 
when  we  came  to  a  small  lake :  we  then  crossed  a  ri> 
ver  that  ran  out  of  it,  and  our  guides  were  incontinu-^ 
al  expectation  of  meeting  with  some  of  the  natives. 
To  this  place  our  course  was  a  mile  and  an  half^  in 
the  same  direction  as  the  last*  At  nine  at  nip^ht  we 
crossed  a  river  on  rafts,  our  last  distance  bein^  about 


356  Journal  of  a  Voyage  Virough  the 

four  miles  south-east,  on  a  >vinding  r6ad,  through  a 
swampjr  country,  and  along  a  succession  of  small  lakes. 
We  were  now  quite  exhaustedf  and  it  was  absolutely- 
necessary  for  us  to  stop  for  the  night.  The  weather 
being  clear  throughout  the  day,  we  had  no  reason  to 
complain  of  the  cold.  Our  guides  encouraged  us 
with  the  hope  that,  in  two  days  of  similar  exertion, 
we  should  arrive  among  the  people  of  the  other  na- 
tion. 

Atondav  15.  At  five  this  morning  we  were  again 
in  motior .  and  passing  along  a  river,  we  at  length 
forded  it.  This  stream  was  not  moi-e  than  knee  deep, 
about  thirty  yards  over,  and  with  a  slony.  bottom.  The 
old  man  went  onward  by  himself,  in  the  hope  of  fall- 
ing in  with  the  people,  whom  he  expected  to  meet  in 
the  course  of  the  day.  At  eleven  we  came  up  with 
him,  and  the  natives  whom  he  expecffed,  consisting  of 
five  men,  and  part  of  their  families.  They  received 
us  with  great  kindness,  and  examined  us  with  the 
most  minute  attention.  They  muse,  however,  have 
been  told  that  we  were  white,  as  our  faces  no  longer 
indicated  that  distinguishing  complexion.  They 
called  themselves  Neguia  Dinais,  and  were  come  in  a 
different  direction  from  us,  but  were  now  going  the 
same  wayj.tothe  Anah-yoe  Tesse,  or  River,  and  ap- 
peared tobe  very  much  satisfied  with  our  having  join- 
ed them.  They  presented  us  with  some  fish  which 
they  had  just  taken  in  the  adjoining  lake. 
•  Here  I  expected  that  our  guides,  like  their  prede- 
cessors, would  have  quitted  us,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
they  expressed  themselves  to  be  so  happy  in  our 
company,  and  that  of  their  friends,  that  they  volunta- 
rily, and  with  great  cheerfulness,  proceeded  to  pass 
another  night  with  us.  Our  new  acquaintance  were 
people  of  a  very  pleasing  aspect.  The  hair  of  the 
women  was  tied  in  large,  loose  knots  over  the  cars, 
and  plaited  with  great  neatness  from  the  division  of 
the  head,  so  as  to  be  included  in  the  knots.  Some  of 
tliem  had  adorned  their  tresses  with  beads,  with  a  ve- 
r)'  pretty  effect.  The  men  were  clothed  in  leather, 
their  hair  was  nicely  combed,  and  their  complexion 


he 


Morth'West  Continent  of  America,         357 


,  through  a 
small  lakes. 
s  absolutely 
he  weather 
10  reason  to 
ouraged  us 
,ar  exertion, 
ie  other  na- 

:  were  again 
ft  at  length 
n  knee  deep, 
ottom.  The 
hope  of  fall- 
rl  to  meet  in 
ime  up  with 
::onsisting  of 
jey  received 
us  with  the 
fwever,  have 
es  no  longer 
on.  Ti)ey 
I'e  come  in  a 
w  going  the 
ver,  and  ap- 
having  join- 
fish  which 

their  prede- 
he  contrary, 
[)py  in  our 
;hcy  volunta- 
ded  to  pass 
miance  were 

hair  of  the 
^er  the  cars, 
&  division  of 
s.  Some  of 
[s,  with  a  ve- 
l  in  leather, 

complexion 


was  fairer,  or  perhaps  it  my  be  said,  with  more  pro- 
priety, that  they  were  more  cleanly,  than  any  of  the 
iratives  whom  we  hud  yet  seen,  'llieir  eye?,  though 
keen  and  sharp,  are  not  of  that  dark  color,  so  general- 
la  observable  in  tlie  various  tribes  of  Indians ;  ttiey 
were,  on  the  contrary,  of  a  grey  hue,  with  a  tinge  of 
red.  There  was  one  man  amongst  them  of  at  least 
six  feet  four  inches  in  height  ;  his  manners  were  affa- 
ble, and  he  had  a  more  prepossessing  api>carance 
than  any  Indian  I  had  met  with  in  my  journey  :  he 
was  about  twenty-eight  years  of  uge,  and  was  treated 
with  particular  respect  by  his  party.  Every  man, 
woman,  and  child,  carried  a  proportionate  burden, 
consisting  of  beaver-coating  and  parchment,  as  well 
as  skins  of  the  otter,  the  marten,  the  bear,  the  \ynxi 
and  dressed  moose-skins.  The  last  tlvey  procure 
from  the  Rocky-Mountain  Indians.  According  to 
their  account,  the  people  of  the  sea-coast  prefer  them 
to  anjf  other  article.  Several  of  their  relations  and 
friends,  they  said,  were  already  gone,  as  well  pro- 
vided as  themselves,  to  barter  with  the  people  of  the 
coast  ;  who  barter  them  in  their  turn,  except  the 
dressed  leather,  with  white  people,  who,  as  they  had 
been  informed,  arrive  there  in  large  canoes. 

Such  an  escort  was  the  most  fortunate  circumstance 
that  could  happen  in  our  favor.  They  told  us,  that 
as  the  women  and  children  could  not  travel  fast,  we 
slkmld  be  three  days  in  getting  to  the  end  of  our  jonr- 
ney  ;  which  must  l>e  supposed  to  have  been  very 
agreeable  information  to  people  in  our  exhausted 
condition* 

In  about  half  an  hour  after  we  had  joined  our  new 
acquaintance,  the  signal  for  moving  onwards  was  giv- 
en by  the  leader  of  the  party,  who  rociferated  the 
words,  Huy,  Huy,,  when  his  people  joined  him  and 
continued  a  clamorous  conversation.  We  passed 
along  a  winding  road  over  hills,  and  through  swampy 
vallies,  from  south  to  west.  We  then  crossed  a  deep, 
narrow  river,  which  discharges  itself  into  a  lake,  on 
whose  side  we  stopped  at  five  In  th«  afternooti,  for 
the  night,  though  we  had  reposed  several  time's  sinc^ 


w 


M 


. 


358  yournal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

twelve  at  noon  ;  so  that  our  mode  of  travelling  had 
undergone  a  very  agreeable  change.  I  compute  the 
distance  of  this  day's  journey  at  about  twenty  miles* 
In  the  middle  of  the  day  the  weather  was  clear  and 
sultry. 

We  all  sat  down  on  a  very  pleasant  green  spot,  and 
were  no  sooner  seated  than  our  guide  and  one  of  the 
■  party  prepared  to  engage  in  play.  They  had  each  a 
bundle  of  about  6fty  small  sticks,  neatly  polished,  of 
the  size  of  a  quill,  and  five  inches  long  :  a  certain 
number  of  these  sticks  had  red  lines  round  them  ;  and 
as  many  of  these  as  one  of  the  players  might  find 
convenient  were  curiously  rolled  up  in  dry  grass,  and 
according  to  the  judgment  of  his  antagonist  respect- 
ing  their  number,  and  marks,  he  lost  or  won.  Our 
friend  was  apparently  the  loser,  as  he  parted  with  his 
bow  and  arrows,  and  several  articles  which  I  had  given 
him. 

Thursday  \6,  The  weather  of  this  morning  was 
the  same  as  yesterday  ;  but  our  fellow-travellers  were 
in  no  hurry  to  proceed,  and  I  was  under  the  necessity 
of  pressing  them  into  greater  expedition,  by  repre- 
senting the  almost  exhausted  state  of  our  provisions. 
They,  however,  assured  us,  that  after  the  next  night's 
sleep  we  should  arrive  at  the  river  where  they  were 
going,  and  that  we  should  there  get  fish  in  great 
abundance.  My  young  men,  from  an  act  of  impru- 
dence, deprived  themselves  last  night  of  that  rest 
which  was  so  necessary  to  them.  One  of  the  stran- 
gers asking  them  several  questions  respecting  us,  and 
concerning  their  own  country,  one  of  them  gave  such 
answers  as  were  not  credited  by  the  audience  ;  where- 
upon he  demanded,  in  a  very  angry  tone,  if  they  thought 
he  was  disposed  to  tell  lies,  like  the  Rocky-Mountain 
Indians  ;  and  one  of  that  tribe  happening  to  be  of  the 
party,  a  quarrel  ensued,  which  might  have  been  at- 
tended with  the  most  serious  consequences,  if  it  had 
not  been  fortunately  prevented  by  the  interference  of 
those  who  were  not  interested  in  the  dispute. 

Though  our  stock  of  provisions  was  getting  so  low, 
I  determined,  nevertheless,  to  hide   about  twenty 


I^orth'lVest  Conilnent  of  America,         S59 

pounds,  of  petnmicafif  by  way  of  providing  against 
our  return.  I  therefore  left  two  of  the  men  behind^ 
with  directions  to  bury  it,  as  usual)  under  the  place 
where  we  had  made  our  fire. 

Our  course  was  about  west-south-west  by  the  side 
of  the  lake)  and  in  about  two  miles  we  cam^  to  the 
end  of  it*  Here  was  a  general  halt,  when  my  men 
overtook  us.  I  was  now  informed,  that  oome  pcoj,!; 
of  another  tribe  were  sent  for,  who  wished  very  much 
to  see  us,  two  of  whom  would  accompany  us  over  the 
mountains  ;  that,  as  for  themselves,  they  had  changed 
their  mind,  and  intended  to  follow  a  small  river 
which  issued  out  of  the  lake,  and  went  in  a  direction 
very  diflFerent  from  the  line  of  our  journey.  Thia 
was  a  disappointment,  which,  though  not  uncommon 
to  us,  might  have  been  followed  by  considerable  in« 
conveniences.  Tt  was  my  wish  to  continue  with  them 
whatever  way  they  went ;  but  neither  my  promises 
or  intreaties  would  avail ;  these  people  were  not  to 
be  turned  from  their  purpose  ;  and  when  I  represent* 
ed  the  low  state  of  our  provisions,  one  of  them  an- 
swered, that  if  we  would  stay  with  them  all  night,  he 
would  boil  a  kettle  of  fish-roes  for  us.  Accordingly, 
without  receiving  any  answer,  be  began  to  make  pre- 
paration tp  fulfil  his  engagement.  He  took  the  roes 
out  of  a  bag,  and  having  bruised  them  between  two 
stones,  put  them  in  water  to  soak.  His  wife  then 
took  an  handful  of  dry  grass  iu  her  hand,  with  which 
she  squeezed  them  through  her  fingers  j  in  the  mean 
time  her  husband  was  ei  \ployed  in  gathering  wood  to 
make  a  fire,  for  the  purpose  of  heating  stones.  When 
she  had  finisiied  her  operation,  she  filled  a  watape- 
kettle  nearly  full  of  water,  and  poured  the  roes  into 
it.  When  the  stones  were  sufficiently  heated,  some 
of  them  were  put  into  the  kettle,  and  others  were 
thrown  in  from  time  to  time,  till  the  water  was  in  a 
state  of  boiling;  the  woman  also  continued  stirring 
the  contents  of  the  kettle,  tiH  they  were  brought  to 
a  thick  consistency  ;  the  stones  were  then  taken  out, 
and  the  whole  was  seasoned  with  about  a  pint  of 
strong  rancid  oil.    The   smell  of  this   curious  dish 


•tl.'*-*^ 


3^  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

was  sufficfient  to  sicken  me  without  tasting  it,  but  the 
hunger  of  my  people  surmounted  the  nauseous  meal. 
When  unadulterated  by  the  stinking  oil,  tliese  boiled 
roes  are  not  unpalatable  food.  j. 

In  the  mean  time  four  of  the  people  yiVo  Iv^d  been 
^jcpiected,  sirrivedjanfl;  according  to  thje  accpunt  given 
fif  j:he^,,  were  of  tW^p  ti;'it)es  whom 'I  '|ia(i  not  yet 
I^Qwn.  After  some  ConV^ii^tibn,  tli^y ,  pr6pO;^d, 
that  I  should  continue  my  route  by  their  houses  ;  but 
tihe  old  guide,  who  was  now  preparLng  tb  leave  us,  in.^ 
formed  me  that  it  would  lengthen  my  journey  ;  and 
by  his  advice  I  proposed  to  them  to  conduct  us  aliang 
.  the  road  which  had  been  gilready  mai^ked  out  to  tis. 
This  they  undertook  wiUioup  thjq  least  hesitation ; 
and,  at  the  ssimetlme)  poihted  oui  to  ihe  the  pass  in 
the  mountain,  beoinng  south  by  *  east  by  compass. 
Here  I  had  a  meridian  altitude,  ^nd  took  time. 

At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  parted  with  our  late 
fellow-travellers  in  a  very  friendly  nlanner,  and  im*. 
iiaediately  forded  the  river.  The  wild  pai*snip,  which 
luxuriates  oh  the  borders  of  tjje  lakes  and  rivers,  is  a 
favorite  food  of  the  natives  :  they  roast  the  tops  of 
this  plant,  in  their  tender  state,  ov6r  the  fire,  and 
ta,i?:ing  off  the  outer  rijad,  they  are  then  a  very  pala- 

We  nmy  centered  the  woods,  and  some  time  after 
ajfriyed  on  tiie  banks  of  another  river  that  flowed 
frofn the  mountain,  which  we  also  forded,  ♦he  coun- 
try §oon  after  we  left  the  river  was  swampy  ;  and  the 
fii'e  having  passed  through  it,  the  number  of  trees, 
which  had  fallen,  added  to  the  toil  of  our  journey.  In 
a'  short  time  we  began  to  ascend,  and  Continued  as- 
cfe^ncing' till  nine  at  night.  We  walked  upwards  of 
fourteen  miles,  according  to  my  computation,  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  though  the  straight  line  of  distance 
might  not  be  more  than  ten.  Notwithstanding  that 
we  were  surrounded  by  mountains  covered  with  snow, 
we  were  very  much  torf  lented  with  musquitoes. 

Wednssday  17.  Before  the  sun  rose,  our  guides 
siimmoged  us  to  proceed,  when  we  descended  into  a 
beautiful  valley,  watered  by  a  small  river.    At  eight 


herd 
time 


ther. 


it,  but  the 
eous  meal. 
Iiese  boiled 

0  hid  been 
:qWfit  ^iveu 
a^  bt>t  jjet 

prdpbs'ed, 
ipuses  ;  but 
eave  us,  iiip 
irney  ;  and 
ict  us  along 

1  out  to  \is. 
hesitation; 

the  pass  in 
ly  compass, 
ime. 

th  our  late 
er,  and  irn^ 
snip*  which 
rivers,  is  a 
the  tops  of 
le  fire,  and 
a- 


a  very 

'  *  '^  r 

time' after 
that  flowed 

4.'he  coun- 
jy  ;  and  the 
er  of  trees, 
journey.  In 
)ntinued  as- 

upwards  of 
ation,  in  the 
e  of  distance 
landing  that 
i  with  snow, 
uitoes. 

our  guides 
ended  into  a 
fr.     At  eight 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        3M' 

w<s  came  to  the  termination  of  it,  where  we  saw  a 
great  number  of  moles,  and  began  again  to  ascend; 
We  BOW  perceived  mai»y  ground-hogs,  and  heaixl 
them  whistle  in  every  direction.  The  Indians  went 
in  pursuit  of  them,  and  soon  joined  us  with  a  female 
and  her  litter,  almost  grown  to  their  full  size.  They 
stripped  otr  their  skipS)  and  gave  the  carcases  to  my 
people*  They  also  puljedup  a  root,  which  appeared 
like  a  bungh  o£wh^te  berries  of  the  size  of  a  pea;  its 
shape  was  that  of  a  fig,  while  it  had  the  color  and 
taste  of  a  potatoe. 

We  now  gained  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  and 
found  ourselves  surrounded  by  snow.     But  this  circum- 
stance is  caused  rather  by  the  quantity  of  snow  drift* 
ed  in  the   pass,  than  the  real  height  of  the  spot  as 
the  surrounding  mountains  rise  to  a  much  higher  de- 
gree of  elevation.    The  snow  had   become  so  rom-: 
pact  that  our  feet  hardly  made  a  perceptible  impres- 
sion on  it.     We  observed,  however,  the  tracks  of  an 
herd   of  small  deer  which  must  have  passed  a  short 
time  before  up.  and  the  Indians  and  my  hunters  went 
immediately  in  pursuit  of  them.     Our  way  was  now 
nealy   level,  without  the  least  snow,  and    not  a  tree 
to  be  seen  in  any  part  of  i^-     The  grass  is  very  short, 
and  tie  soil  a  reddish   clay,  intermixed  with  smaUi 
stones.     The  face  of  the  hills  where  they  ^re  not  eii- 
livened  with  verdure,  appears  at  a  distance  as  if  fire 
had  passed  over  them.     It  now  began  to  hail,  snow, 
and  rain,  nor  could  we  find   any  shelter  but   the  lee-j 
ward  side  of  an  huge  rock.     The  wind  also  rose  intor 
a  tempest,  and  the  weather  was  as  distressing  as  any  > 
I  had   ever   experienced.     After   an  absence  of  an 
hour  and  an  half,  our  hunters  brought  a  small  doe  of 
the  rein-deer  species,  which  was   all  they   had  killed, 
though  they  fired  twelve  shots  at  a   large   herd  oiy 
them.     Their  ill  success  they  attributed  to  the  wea- ' 
ther.     I  proposed  to  leave  half  of  the  venison  in  the  • 
snowj  but  the  men  preferred  carryinj*"  it,  though  their  • 
strength   was   very  much  exhausted.     We. had  been  ■ 
so  long  shivering  with  cold  in  this  situation,  that  we 
very  glad  to  renew  our  march.     Here  and  there  wert 

Hh 


Ml 


i^Afi'  'I 


t^i  youmdl  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


fcattfcred  a  few  crowberry  bushes  and  sthited  wiHcMKrs  j 
the  former  (rf  which  had  not  yet  blosbomed. 

Before  us  app  ^rieda  stupendous  mountain,  wliose 
stiow-clad  summit  was  lost  in  the  clouds  ;  between  it 
and  our  immediate  course,  flowed  the  river  to  which 
we  vrer©  goin)g'.  '  'Fhe  I ndians*  informed  us  that  it  was 
at  no  gritat  distance.  As  soon  as  we  could  gather  a 
Efficient  quantity  efwood,  we  stopped  to  dress  some 
of  our  venisbn  ;  and  it'  is  almost  superfluous  to  add, 
that  we  made  an  heartier  meal  than>  we  had  done  fbr 
many  a  day  before.  To  the  comfort  which  I  haVe 
just  mentioned.  I  added  that  of  taking  off  my  beard, 
as  well  as  changing  my  linep,  and  my  people  follow- 
ed the  humanising  example.  We  then  set  forwards, 
and  came  to  a  large  pond,  on  whose  bank  we  found  a 
tdmb,  but  lately  made,  with  a  pole,  as  usual,  erected 
beside  it,  on  wiiich  two  figures  of  birds  were  painted, 
and  by  them  the  guides  distinguished  the  tribe  to 
vhich  the  deceased  persdn  belonged.  One  of  them, 
very  unceremoniously,  opened  the  bark  and  shewed 
us  the  bones  which  it  contained,  while  the  other 
threw  down  the  pole,  and  having  possessed  himself 
of  the  feathers  that  were  tied  to  :t,  fixed  them  on  his 
own  head»  I  therefore  conjectured,  that  these  fune* 
ral  memorials  belonged  to  an  individual  of  a  tribe 
at  enmity  with  them. 

We  continued  our  route  with  a  considerable  degree 
of  expedition,  and  as  we  proceeded,  the  mountains  ap- 
peared to  withdraw  from  us.  The  ountry  between 
them  soon  opened  to  our  view,  which  apparently  ad- 
ded to  their  av/ful  elevation.  We  continued  to  descend 
till  wc  came  to  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  from  whence 
our  giiides  discovered  a  river  to  us,  and  a  village  on  its 
banks.  This  precipice,  or  rather  succession  of  pre- 
cip^ices,  is  covered  with  large  timber,  which  consists 
of  the  pine,  the  spruce,  the  hemlock,  the  birch,  and 
other  trees.  Our  conductors  informed  us,  that  it  abound- 
ed in  animals,  which,  from  their  description,  must  be 
wild  goats.  In  about  two  hours  we  arrived  at  the  bot- 
tepna,  where  there  is  a  conflux  of  two  rivers,  that  issue 
fisam  the  mountains.     We  crossed  the  one  which  was 


North-Wefit  Continent  of  Amtrk€t. 


:w 


ed  willows  \ 

taitv,  whose 
between  it 
er  to  wliich 
I  that  it  was 
Id  gather  a 
dress  some 
ions  to  add, 
lad  done  fbr 
hich  I  have 
r  my  beard, 
ople  foiiow- 
et  forwards, 
we  found  a 
aal,  erected 
ere  painted, 
he  tribe  to 
•ne  of  them, 
and  shewed 
i  the  other 
jed  himself 
them  on  his 
these  fune* 
1  of  a  tribe 

rable  degree 
oimtains  ap- 
try  between 
parently  ad- 
i  to  descend 
•oia  whence 
tillage  on  its 
sion  of  pre- 
lich  consists 
J  birch,  and 
lat  it  abound- 
on,  must  be 
d  at  the  bot- 
s,  that  issue 
e  which  was 


to  the  left.  They  are  both  very  rapid,  and  continue 
»o  till  they  unite  their  currents,  forming  a  stream  oC 
about  twelve  yards  in  breadth.  Her«  the  timber  wf.s 
also  very  large ;  but  I  could  not  learn  from  our  coft* 
ductors  why  the  most  considerable  hemlock  trees  wf;re 
stripped  of  their  bark  to  the  tofis  of  them*  I  conelud* 
cd,  indeed,  at  tliat  time,  that  the  inhabitants  tanneid 
their  leath*er  with  it.  Here  were  also  th*  largest  Aii4 
loftiest  elder  and  cedar  trees  that  I  had  evci'  seen.  W<j, 
were  now  sensible  of  ^^n  entire  change  in  the  cHmat<$$ 
and  the  berries  were  quite  ripe.  x    ^c''    ■•    V^^^^f 

The  sim  was  about  to  set,  when  our  conductors  left 
us  to  follow  them  as  wtU  as  we  could.  Wc  were  pre* 
vented,  however,  from  going  far  astray,  foyive  were 
hemmed  in  on  both  sides,  and  behind  by  sucf  bar* 
rjer  as  nature  never  before  presented  io  my  .iiew># 
Our  guides  had  the  precaution  to  mark  the  load  for 
us,  by  breakiag  the  branches  of  trees  as  they  passed. 
This  small  river  must,  at  certain  seasons  risf  to  an 
vuicomuion  height  uud  strength  of  current  most  pro* 
Ijably  on  the  malting  of  the  snow  j  as  we  saw  a  large 
quantiLy  oi  drift  wood  lying  twelve  feet  above  the  im- 
mediaie  level  of  the  river.  This  circumstance  im- 
peded our  progress,  and  the  protn^ding  rocks  ivm* 
queptly  force^i  -u<8  to  pass  through  the  water.  It  was 
now  dark,  without  the  least  appearance  of  houses^ 
though  it  would  have  been  impossible  ^to  have  «eeii 
them,  if  there  hud  been  any,  at  the  distance  of  tv/en* 
ty  yards,  fron\  the  thickness  of  the  woods.  My  meiv 
were  anxious  to  stop  for  the  night ;  indeed  the  fa.-* 
tigue  they  had  sufieied  justified  the  pro|)osal,  and  I 
left  thcTi  to  their  choice  j  but  as  the  anxiety  of  my 
mind  impelled  me  forwards,  they  contiimed  to  foItoiiV! 
me,  till  1  found raycelf  at  the  edge  of  theAVoOds  ;  ftndii 
notwithstanding  the  remonstrances  that  v/ere  m?dje# 
I  proceeded,  feeling  ro'Jier  than  seeing  my  way,  liU 
I  arrived  at  an  house,  and  soon  discovered  several 
fires,  in  small  huts,  with  people  busily  employed  iw 
cooking  their  fish.  1  walked  ir^to  one  of  them  wiiib<% 
oui,  the  least  ceremony,  threv/  down  my  burden,  aed* 
iUUr   shaking   hands   with   soine  of  the  peopk).  sat 


i64  Journal  of  a  Voyage  thr&iigh  the 

,  down  upon  it.  They  received  me  without  the  least 
appearance  of  surprise,  but  soon  made  signs  for  me 
to  go  up  to  the  large  house,  which  was  erected,  on 
upright  posts,  at  some  distance  from  the  ground. 
Abroad  piece  of  timber  with  steps  cut  in  it,  led  to 
the  scaffolding  evdn  with  the  floor,  and  by  this  cu- 
rious kind  of  ladder  I  entered  the  house  at  one  en4  ; 

^'and  having  passed  three  fires,  at  equal  distances  in 
the  middle  of  the  building,  t  was  received  by  scVeral 
peoplev  sitting  upon  a  very  wide  board,  at  the  upper 
end  of  it.  I  shook  hands  with  them,  and  seated  my- 
self bfeside  a  man,  the  dignity  of  whose  countenance 
induced  me  to  give  him  that  preference,  I  soon  dis- 
covered one  of  my  guides  seated  a  little  aiove  me, 
with  a  neat  mat  spread  before  him,  which  I  suppo<>ed 
16  be  the  place  of  honor  and  appropriated  to  stran- 
gers. In  a  short  time  my  people  arrived,  and  placed 
themselves  near  me,  when  the  man  by  whom  I  sat, 
immediately  rose,  and  fetched,  from  behind  a  plank 
of  about  tour  feet  wide,  a  quantity  of  roasted  salmoii. 
He  then  directed  a  mat  to  be  place*!  before  me  and 
Mr.  Mackay,  who  was  now  sittir^/  hy  me.  When 
this  ceremony  was  performed,  he  brc\;ght  a  salmon 
for  each  of  us,  and  half  an  one  to  each  of  my  men. 
The  ^me  plank  served  also  as  a  screei>  for  the  beds, 
whither  the  women  and  children  were  already  reti- 
red ;  but  whether  that  circumstance  took  place  on 
our  arrival,  or  was  the  natural  consequence  of  the 
late  hour  of  the  night,  I  did  not  discover.  The  signs 
of  our  protector  seemed  to  denote,  that  wc  might 
s*eep  in  the  house,  but  as  we  did  not  understand  him 
\vith  a  suflicient  degree  of  certainty,  1  thought  it  pru- 

.  dent,  from  the    fear  of   giving  offence,  to   order  the 

-men  to  In  ike  a  fire  without,  that  we  might  sleep  by 
itV  When  he  observed  our  design,  he  placed  boards 
for  Ui,  that  wc  migh*-  not  take  our  repose  on  the 
bare  grounc-.*  and  ordered  a  fire  to  be  prepared  for 
m.  We  had  not  been  long  seated  round  it,  when  we 
rer*'ived  a  large  dish  of  salmon  roes,  pounded  fine, 
and  beat  up  with  water,  so  as  to  have  the  appearance 
of  a   Cicank     Nor  waii  it  -  wit  lout  some  kind  of  ses 


ino; 


It  the  least 
igns  for  me 
erected,  on 
he  ground. 
a  it j  led  to 
by  this  cu- 
lt one  end  j 
listances  in 
I  by  several 
it  the  upper 

seated  my- 
:ountenance 

^,  soon  dia- 
e  aiove  me, 

I  supposed 
ted  to  straii- 
;  and  placed 
whom  I  sat, 
ind   a  plank 
.ted  salmon. 
)re  me   and 
ne.     When 
it  a  salmon 
ji  my  men. 
for  the  beds, 
already  reti- 
)ok  place  on 
uence  of  the 
The  signs 
it    we  might 
lerstand  him 
)ught  it  pru- 
to   order  the 
ght  sleep  by 
laced  boards 
[jose  on  the 
)repared    for 

it,  when  we 
)ouKded  fine, 
e  appearance 

kind  of  se&' 


NorthAVest  Continent  of  America,         365 


sonLng  that  gave  it  a  bitter  taste.  Another  dish  soon 
followed,  the  p.incipal  article  of  which  was  also  sal- 
mon roes,  v/ith  a  lavge  proportioij  of  gooseberries, 
and  an  herb  that  appeared  to  be  sorrel.  Its  acidity 
rendered  it  more  agreeab!fe  lo  my  taste  than  the  for- 
mer preparation.  Having  been  regaled  with  these 
delicacies,  for  such  they  were  considered  by  that  hos- 
pitable spirit  which  provided  them,  we  laid  rarselves 
down  to  rest,  with  no  other  canopy  than  the  sky  ;  but 
I  never  enjoyed  a  more  sound  and  refreshing  rest, 
though  I  had  a  board  for  my  bed,  and  a  billet  for  n^y 
pillow. 

Thursday  1 8.  At  fire  this  morning  I  awoke,  and 
Ibund  that  the  natives  had  lighted  a  fire  for  us,  and 
were  sitting  by  it.  My  hospitable  friend  immediate- 
ly brought  me  some  berries  and  roasted  salmon,  and 
his  companions  soon  followed  his  exampk.  The  for- 
mer, which  consisted  among  many  others,  of  goose- 
berries, whirtleberries,  and  raspberries,  were  the 
iinest  I  ever  saw  or  tasted,  of  their  respective  kinds. 
They  also  brought  the  dried  roes  of  fish  t  »  eat  with 
tlie  berries. 

Salmon  is  so  abundant  in  this  river,  that  these  peo- 
ple have  a  constant  and  plentiful  supply  of  that  excel- 
lent fish.  To  take  them  with  more  facility,  they  had, 
with  great  labor,  formed  an  embankment  or  weir 
across  the  river  for  the  purpose  of  placing  their  fish- 
ing machines,  which  they  disposed  both  above  and 
below  it.  I  expressed  my  wish  to  visit  this  extraor- 
dinary work,  but  these  people  are  so  superstitious, 
that  they  would  not  allow  ir-e  a  nearer  examination 
than  I  could  obtain  by  viewing  it  from,  the  bank. 
The  river  is  about  fifty  yards  in  breadth^  and  by  ob- 
serving a  mai  fish  with  a  dipping  net,  I  judged  it  tdi 
be  about  ten  fcei  deep  at  the^  foot  of  the  fall.  The 
weir  is  a  work  of  great  labor,  and  contrived  witlv 
considerable  ingeriirity..      It  was  neoi*  four  feet  above 


the  level  of  the  wat.jr, 
ly   the  height  oi  ihr  ; 
mine  it.     The  stv  nir. 
i};.    It  is  consti'ucti^d  ! 


at  the  time  I  saw  it,  and  near- 

ank  on  which    I   stood  to  exa- 

«  stopped  nearly  two  thirds  hy 

)i  fixing  small  trees  in  the  bed 

Hli;i 


36G  jfourhal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


of  the  river  in  a  slanting  position  (which  could  be 
practicable  only  when  the  water  is  much  lower  than  I 
saw  it)  with  the  thick  part  downwards  ;  over  these  is 
laid  a  bed  of  gravel,  on  which  is  placed  a  range  of 
lesser  trees,  and  so  on;  alternately  till  the  work  i« 
brought  to  its  proper  height.  Beneath  it  the  machines 
are  placed,  into  whkhthe  salmon  fall  when  they  at* 
tempt  to  le^)  over*  On  either  side  there  is  a  large 
frame  of  timber-rwork  six  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
upper  water,  in  which  passages  are  left  for  the  salmon 
leading  directly  into  the  machines,  which  are  taken 
up  at  pleasure.  At  the  foot  of  the  fall  dipping  nets 
are  also  successfully  employed,   i-,  .j;\.  i    tv>    ;. . 

The  water  of  this  river  is  of  the  color  of  asses  milk, 
which  I  attributed  in  part  to  the  limestone  that  in 
many  place  a  forms  the  bed  of  the  river,  but  pjincipal- 
ly  to  the  rivulets  which  fall  from  the  mountains  of  the 
same  mate  vial.  ii  i&sd  r^>lr^'>3C|  tjsriJ  lo  wje? 

These  people  indulge  an  extreme  superstition  re-' 
specting  their  Tish,  as  it  is  apparently  their  only  animal 
food.  Flesh  they  never  taste,  and  one  of  their  dogs  hav- 
ing picked  and  swallowefl  part  of  a  bone  which  we  had 
left,  was  beaten  by  his  master  till  he  disgorged  it. 
One  of  my  peopie  also  having  thrown  a  bone  of  the 
deer  into  the  river,  a  native,  who  had  observed  tlie 
circumstance,  immediately  dived  and  brought  it  up, 
and  having  coniigned  it  to  the  fire,  instantly  pra^eied- 
ed  to  wash  hi  o  polluted  hands.  't  -^^  ?c;  • 

-  As  W'.  .yere  i^nll  at  some  distanrA"?  from  thr^  sea,  I 
-made  ap^A.catiorj  to  my  friend  to  procure  us  a  canoe 
or  two,  '^^ich  i;tiopb  to  conduct  us  thither.  Aftef  he 
had  made  varicv  ^  e  tubuses,  I  at  lengtli  comprehend<;d 
that  his  only  objection  was  to  the  embarking  veniscn 
in  a  canoe  on  their  river,  as  the  fish  would  instantly 
smell  it  and  abai*4on  them,  so  that  he,  his  friends,  and 
relatjimsj  must  starve.  1  soor  eased  his  apprehensions 
on  tfcut  poii^c,  and  desired  to  know  what  I  must  do 
with  the  venison  that  remained,  when  he  told  me  to 
give  it  to  one  of,  the  strangers  whom  he  pointed  out  io 
jae,  ae  being  of  a  tribe  that  eat  fleih.  1  now  request- 
itdiumtafqmshme  with  some  fresh  salmon  in  its  raw 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        367 


I  could  be 
wer  than  I 
er  these  is 

range  of 
B  work  is 
:  machines 
;n  they  at> 

is  a  large 
:vel  of  the 
:he  salmon 

are  taken 
pping  nets 

Bssesmilk^ 
ne  that  in 
;  piincipal- 
ains  of  the 

•stition  rc- 
inly  animal 
rdogshav- 
iich  we  had 
gorged  it. 
•one  of  the 
served  the 
u^ht  it  up, 
y  pra%efid- 


.)  < 


r,   =rt^«^t-r■J 


thr:  sea,  I 
us  a  canoe 
Aftef  ht 
iprehend<;d 
ng  veniscn 
d  instantly 
riends,  and 
rehensions 
I  must  do 
told  me  to 
nted  out  io 
)W  reqaest- 
n  in  its  raw 


state ;  but  instead  of  complying  with  my  wish,  he 
brought  me  a  couple  of  them  roasted,  observing,  at  the 
same  time,  that  the  current  was  very  strong,  and 
would  bring  us  to  the  next  village,  Where  our  wants 
would  be  abundantly  supplied.  In  short,  he  reqUesti 
ed  that  we  would  make  haste  to  depart.  This  was  ra- 
ther unexpected  after  so  much  kindness  and  hospitali* 
ty,  but  our  ignorance  of  the  language  prevented' u^ 
from  being  able  to  discover  the  cause.        '    '     '  'i  '^' 

At  eight  in  the  morning,  fifteen  men  armed^  the 
friends  and  relations  of  these  people,  arrived,  by  land, 
in  consequence  of  notice  sent  them  in  the  night,  iiii* 
mediately  after  the  appearance  of  our  guides.  They 
are  more  corpulent  and  of  a  belter  appearance  than 
the  inhabitants  of  the  interior.  Their  language  total'' 
ly  different  from  any  I  had  heard ;  the  Atnah  ov 
Chin  tribe,  as  far  as  I  can  judge  from  the  very  littlci 
I  sa^y  of  that  people,  bear  the  nearest  resemblance  t® 
them.  They  appear  to  be  of  a  quiet  and  peaceable 
character,  and  never  make  any  hostile  incursions  into 
the  lands  of  their  neighbors. 

Their  dress  consists  of  a  single  robe  tied  over  the 
shoulders,  falling  down  behind,  to  the  heels,  and  be- 
fore, a  little  below  the  knees,  with  a  deep  fringe  round 
the  bottom.     It  is  generally  made  of  the  bark  of  the 
cedjf  tree,  .which  they  prepare  as  fine  as   hemp  : 
though  some  of  these  garments  are  interwoven  with 
strips  of  the  sea-otter  skin,  which  give  them  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  fiir  on  one  side.     Others  have  stripei  of 
red  and  yellow  threads  fancifully  introduced  toward 
the  borders,  which  have  a  very  agreeable  effect.     The 
men  ha*e  no  other  covering  than  that  which  I  have 
descr:"r»ed,  and  they  unceremoniously  lay  it  aside  wheii^ 
they  find  it  convenient.     In  addition  to  this  robe,  the* 
women  wear  a  close  fringe  hanging  down  before  them 
about   two  feet  in  length,    and  half  as  wide.     When 
they  sit  down  they   draw  this  between  their  thighs^' 
They  wear  their  hair  so  short,  that  it  requires  lit  .ie 
care  or  rombing.     The  men  have  theirs  in  plaits,  an»l' 
being  smeared  with  oil  and  red  earth,  instead  of  a  coml»' 
they  have  a  small  ^tick  hanging  by  a  string  fpom  oRe 


368  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the . 

of  the  locks,  which  they  employ  to  alleviate  any  itch- 
ing or  irritation  in  the  head.  The  color  of  the  eye  iii 
grey  with  a  tinge  of  red.  They  have  all  high  cheek- 
bones, but  the  women  are  more  remarkable  for  that 
feature  than  the  men.  Their  houses,  arms,  and  utei>- 
sihl  shall  decribe,  hereafter. 

>  1  presented  my  friend  with  several  articles,  and  al- 
so ^listributcd  some  among  others  of  the  natives  who 
had  been  attentive  to  us.  One  of  my  guides  had  been 
very  serviceable  in  procuring  canoes  for  us  to  proceed 
on  our  expedition ;  he  appeared  also  to  be  very  desir- 
ous of  giving  these  people  a  favorable  impres-Zuon  of 
us;  and  I  was  very  much  concerned  that  he  should 
leave  me  as  he  did,  without  giving  me  the  least  no- 
tice of  his  departure,  or  receiving  the  presents  which 
I  had  prepared  for  him,  and  he  so  well  deserved.  At 
noon  I  had  an  observation  which  gave  52.28*  li* 
north  longitude. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Continue  our  journey.  Embark  on  a  river.  Come  to  a  weir.  Dexterity  of  the 
natives  in  passing  it.  Arrive  at  a  viilage.  Alarm  occasioned  among  the  na- 
tives. The  aubse(|uent  favorable  reception,  accompanied  with  a  banquet  of  ce- 
remony. Circumstances  ol  il.  Descri)>tion  of  a  vilUi^e,  its  houses,  atid  place) 
of  devotion.  Account  of  the  customs,  mode  of  livin»,  and  superstition  of  the 
idhabit:m6..  DeicripUon  of  the  cluePg  canoe.  Leave  tlie  place,  and  proceed 
on  ourvoyage. 

i7«}.'ii\T  one  in  the  afternoon  we  embarked,  with  our 
small  baggage,  in  two  canoes,  accompanied  by  seven 
of  the  natives.  The  stream  was  rapid,  and  ran  up- 
wards of  six  miles  an  hour.  We  came  to  a  weir,  such 
as  i  have  already  described,  where  the  natives  landed 
us,  and  shot  over  it  without  taking  a  drop  of  water. 
They  then  received  us  on  board  again,  and  we  con- 
tinued our  voyage,  passing  many  canoes  on  the  river, 
some  with  people  in  them,  and  others  empty.  We 
pj'oceeded  at  a  very  great  rat^  for  about  two  hours  and 
an  half,  when  we  were  ii  '  med  that  we  must  land, 
as  the  village  was  only  at  a  short  distance.  I  had 
iaiagiaed  that  Uie  Canadians   who  accompanied  mt. 


Hwrih'West  Continent  of  America,        te9 


were  the  most  expert  canoe-men  in  the  world,  but  they 
are  very  inferior  to  these  people,  as  they  themselves 
acknowledged,  in  conducting  those  vessels. 

Some  of  th^ndians  ran  before  us  to  anmouncc  our 
approach,  when  we  took  our  bundles  and  followerfv 
We  had  walked  along  a  well  beaten  patli,  through  a 
kind  of  copt)ice,  Avhcn  we  were  infbrmed  of  the  arri- 
val of  our  couriers  tit  the  houses,  by  the  Ibiid  and  coii^? 
fused  talking  of  the  inhabitants.  As  we  approached 
the  edge  of  the  wood,  aiid  were  almost  in  sight  of  the 
houi^QS,  the  Indiatls  who  were  before  me,  made  signs 
for  me  to  take  the  lead,  and  that  they  would  follow. 
The  noise  and  confusion  of  the  natives  nowseemed  to 
increase,  and  when  we  came  in  sight  of  the  village^ 
we  saw  them  running  from  honse  to  house,  some  arrni 
ed  with  bows  aftd  arrows,  others  mth  spears,  and  iWtt- 
ny  with  axes,  as  if  in  a  state  of  great  alarm.  This 
very  unpleasant  an.d  unexpected  circumstance,  I  at- 
tributed to  our  sudden  arrival,  and  the  very  short  no- 
tice of  it  which  had  been  given  them.  At  all  events, 
I  had  but  one  line  of  conduct  to  pursue,  which  was 
to  walk  resolutely  up  to  them,  without  manifesting 
any  signs  of  apprehension  at  their  hostile  appearance. 
This  resolution  produced  the  desired  effect,  for  as  we 
approached  the  houses,  the  greater  part  of  the  people 
laid  down  their  weapons,  and  came  forward  to  meet 
us.  I  was,  however,  soon  obliged  to  stop,  from  the 
number  of  them  that  surrounded  me.  I  shoo^  hands, 
as  usual  with  siich  as  were  the  nearest  to  me,  wheii 
un  elderly  man  broke  through  the  crowd,  and  took 
me  in  his  arms  ;  another  then  came,  who  turned  Mm 
away  without  the  least  ceremony,  and  paid  me  the 
same  compliment.  The  latter  was  foHowed  by  a 
young  man,  whom  I  understood  to  be  his  soin.  These 
embraces,  which  at  first  rather  Airprised  me,  T  soofi 
founel  to  be  marks  of  regard  and  friendship.  The 
crowd  pressed  with  so  much  violence  and  contention 
to  get  a  view  of  us,  that  we  could  not  move  in  any  di- 
rection. An  opening  was  at  length  made  to  allow  k 
person  to  approach  me,  whom  the  old  man  made  tne 
understand  was  another  of  his  sons.     I  instantly  step- 


JfO  Jourmilofa  Voyage  through  the 


pert  forward  to  meet  him,  and  presented  my  liMnd^ 
whercvipon  ho  broke  tlic  string  of  a  very  hi;!»d>ion\i», 
robe  of  sea-otter  skin,  which  he  had  on,  unci  covered 
me  with  it.  ThiH  was  as  flattering  ^Jneceptjion  vm  I 
could  posRibly  receive,  especially  us  I  consid<;red  Jiini 
to  be  the  eldest  son  of  the  chief.  Indetd  it  appe;aed 
tf>  me  that  we  had  been  detained  here  for  the  purpoBtj 
6f  giving   him  lime  to  bring  the  roLc  with  whicja  he 

had  presented  me.  '  j.'t,  '  IHV  '     "C"'J 

•  •  The  cliief  now  made    sigiis  for  us  to  follow  him^ 
and  he  conducted  us  through  a  narrow  coppice,  forswi- 
veral  hundred  yards,  till  vc  came  to  an  house  built  oi> 
the   ground,    which    was   of  larger  dimensions,  und 
formed  of  better  materials  than   any    I  had  hitherto 
seen ;  it  >i**as  his  residence.     We  were  no  sooner  i^^'-j 
rived  there,  than,  he  directed  mats  to  be  spreail  before 
it,  on  which  we  were  told  to  take  our  seats,  when  the; 
men  of  the  village,  who  came  to  indulge  their  curi-« 
osity,  were  ordered  to  keep  behind  us.     In  our  front 
other  mats  were  placed,  where  the  chief  and  Ins  coui\- 
sellors    took  their   seats.     In  the   intervening  3pace» 
mats,  which  were  very  clean,  and  of  a  much  neater 
workmanship  than  those  on  wliich   we  sat,  were  als>a 
spread,  and  a  small  roasted  salmon  placed  before  ea^h 
of  U8»     When  we  had  satislied  ourscl,ve$  with  the  lishj, 
one  of  the  people  who  came  with  us  from  the  la^tvil* 
lage   approached,  witli  a  kind  of  ladle  in  one  hand, 
containing  oil,  and  in  the  other  something  that  re- 
sembled'the  inner  rind  of  the  cocoa-nut,  but  of  alight-  , 
e.r  color ;  this  he  dipped  in  the  oil,  and  having  eat  it, 
indicatiid  by  his  gesliu'es  how  palatable  he  thought  it. 
lie  then  presented  me  with  a  smidl  piece  of  it,  whiclv 
*I  chose  to  taste  in  its  dry  state,  though  the  oil  was  free 
from  any  unpleasant  smell.  A  square  cakeof  tliis  was 
next  produced,  when  a  man  took  it  to  the  water  near 
the  house,  and  having  thoroughly  soaked  it,  he  return- 
edi  and,  after  he  had  pulled  it  to  pieces  like  oakuniy 
put  it  into  a  well-made  trough,  about  three  feet  long, 
nine  inches  wide,   and  five  deep ;  he  then  plentifully 
sprinkled  it  with   salmon  oil,  and  manifested  by  his 
own  example  that  wc  were  to  eat  of  it.    I  just  taste4 


it,  and 
the  oth 
The  rh 
Ceivefi  • 
sidcred 
examin 
of  the 
put  intc 
inches 
this  ton 
great  le 
spectin^ 
atrippet 

In  th 
hours*  i 
ing  all 
them,  V 
which  t] 
at  the  f( 

At  lei 
and  go 
receptio 
young  c 
which  1 
that  app 
presents 
a  pair  c 
clipping 
that  pur 
tribiitior 
who  ha( 
howevei 
for  it  is 
not  a  pe 
of  an  ini 

We  V 
salmon, 
but  coul 
though  1 
cords,  \ 
They  W( 


'.■»•♦ 


my  luincV 

U  covered 
>t4on  ai  I 
l(;recl  iiiiTi 
uppe;a«il 
e  puvpore 

illow  hiiTiy 
ice,  for  &e- 
»u  built  on 
iions,  and 
1  hithccto 
boonev  i^r-j 
zod  beior^i 
,  when  .^1)0 
heir  curi-» 
,  our  iVoiit 
liis  couiv 
ing  space, 
ich  neuter 
were  als»a 
efore  ea^h 
h  the  iUh, 
lie  lu^t  vil«" 
one  haofU 
g  that  i^e- 
of  a  light-  , 
ing  cat  it, 
.bought  it. 
f  it,  whicU 
il  was  free 
if  tliis  was 
vater  near 
hereturn- 
Le  oakum) 
feet  long, 
plentifully 
>ted  by  his 
Just  Uisteti 


}^orth'We8t  Continent  of  America,         371 

it,  and  found  the  oil  perfectly  sweet,  without  which 
the  other  ingredients  w<,»)ld  have  been  very  insipid* 
The  chief  partook  of  it  with  avidity,  af*er  it  had  re* 
<!eivoci  .in  additional  <piantity  of  oil.  Thi»  dish  is  con-* 
sidcred  by  these  people  aa  u  great  delicacy  ;  ami  on 
examination,  1  discovered  it  to  consist  of  the  inner  rind 
of  the  hemlock  tree*  taken  off  early  in  summer,  an4 
put  into  a  frame,  which  shapes  it  into  cakes  of  fiftcejn 
inches  long,  ten  broad,  and  half  an  inch  thick  ;  and  in 
this  form  1  should  suppose  it  may  be  presci'ved  for  ^ 
great  length  of  time.  This  discovery  satisfied  me  re<» 
stpecting  the  many  hemlock  trees  which  I  had  observed 
airipped  of  their  bark. 

In  this  situation  we  remained  for  upwards  of  three 
hours9  and  not  one  of  the  curious  natives  left  us  dur- 
ing all  that  time,  except  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve  of 
them,  whom  the  chief  ordered  to  go  and  catch  fish, 
which  they  did  in  greet  abundance,  with  dipping  nets, 
at  the  foot  of  the  weir. 

At  length  we  were  relieved  from  the  gazing  crowd, 
and  got  a  lodge  erected,  and  covered  in  for  oup 
reception  during  the  night.  I  now  presented  the 
young  chief  with  a  blanket,  in  return  for  the  robe  with 
which  he  had  favored  me,  and  several  other  articlesi 
that  appeared  to  be  very  gratifying  to  him.  I  also 
presented  some  to  his  father,  and  amongst  them  was 
a  pair  of  scissors,  whose  use  I  explained  to  him,  for 
clipping  his  beard,  which  was  of  great  length  ;  and  to 
that  purpose  he  immediately  applied  them-  My  dis- 
tribution of  similar  articles  was  also  extended  to  thers, 
>vIio  had  been  attentive  to  us.  The  communication,!! 
however,  between  us  was  awkward  and  inconvenient, 
for  it  is  wa§  carried  on  entirely  by  signs,  as  there  was  , 
not  a  person  with  me  who  was  qualiiied  for  the  offio^n 
of  an  interpreter.  ' -^di 

We  were  all  of  us  very  desirous  to  get  some  fresh 
salmon,  that  we  might  dress  them  in  our  own  way, 
but  could  not  by  any  means  obtain  that  gratification, 
though  there  were  thousands  of  that  fish  strung  on 
cords,  which  were  fastened  to  stakes  in  the  river. 
They  were  even  averse  to  our  approaching  the  spot 


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373  Journal  ofn  Voyage  through  the 


t  Vt:  *-i 


where  tlicjr  dean  and  preitare  IfaemfortheitoimcAt^ 
ing.  They  had,  indeed,  taken  our  ketUe  from  us»  lest 
we  should  employ  it  in  getting  water  froixk  the  ny«r  \ 
and  they  assigned  as  the  refeson  for  Ihis  pre<:^Uon» 
that  the  salmon  dislike  the  smell  of  iron*  At  1^ 
same  time  ithey  supplied  ns  with  wooden  hf»xr%phich 
were  capable  of  hcddi^any  Auid*>  aT^oiCkf  the jgfien  that 
went  to  fiBh><in  a^camie  capubl^nf  c0nUitiing^ten.^9«« 
pie,  returned  with  a  full  lading  of  sslm^n^.thAtweif^- 
ed  from  miL  to  fc^ty  pounds,,  thobgfaivthe^^f  gutter 
part  of  the43i  were  under  twetbty.  ,  lOtey.iWnM^iiitf^y 
Strang  the  whole  of  thein,  as  Ihave'akread]Kin:enlion«d» 
in  the  river.   ^  ::  .    '*:'.'•  i  .':A'i>^  or- -^   ■■:  b-j  "■•].. 

I  now  made  the  touirof  ;th^iniUage»whi<i]|[i  ^onttsl^ 
^f  four  elevated  hbu^s^andaeyesKl^iiiii  /oojtli^;  gt^nd, 
foesidfts  a  constdevahte  numbei^nfi^thfirtbuildingfiii^^ 
sheds,  wtiich  are  used  only  aaikttchens^'ftliid^platesiior 
curing  their  fish.  The.£Drmer>arcebnstructed by;  fix- 
ing a  certain  number  of  posts  in  the  earth,  on- some  of 
which  are  laid,  and  to  others  are  fastened,  the  support* 
ers  of  the  floor,  at  about  twelve  feet  above  thbsurffuce 
of  the  ground  :  their  length  is  from  anv hundred  to  an 
hundred  and  twenty  feet,  and  they  are^bout  forty  £eet 
in  Ibreadth*  Along  the  centre  are  built  three,  four,  nr 
five  heat'ChSr  ^cA*  the  twoi-foid  purpose  ofgiving  Wacmth, 
and  dressing  their  iish.  T^e  whole  length  of  the 
building  oh  either  'side  is  divided  by  cedar  planks, 
into  partitions jor  apartmvents  of  seven  feet  square^in. 
the  froM  of  which  there  ai'e  boards,  about  three  feet 
wide,  over  which,  though  they  are  not  immoveably 
fixed^  the  inmates  Qf  these  recesses  generally  pass, 
when  they  go  t6  rest*  The  greater  part  of  them  are 
intended  fdr  that  purpose,:  and  such  are  covered  w;ith 
boards,  ad  ihe  height  of  the  wall  of  the  house,  which 
is  about  seven  or  eight  feet,  and  rest  upon  beams  that 
stretch  across  the  building.  On  those  also  are  placed 
the  chests  which  contain  their  provisions,  utensils, 
and  whatever  ihey  possess.  The  intermediate  space 
is  sufiicient  for  domestic  purposes.  On  poles  that  run 
along  the  beams,  hang  roasted  fish,  and  the  Vffhoie , 
buildmg  is  well  covered  with  boards  and  bark,  except; 


North'-Wegt  Ccntinent  6f  America.        Hn 

within  a  few  inche&  <Jf  the  ridge  pole ;  where  opeli 
«^e&  «ng  IcCt  ^fi  leach  side  to  let  in  light  and  emit 
the  »moke*     At  the  end  of  the  house  tlmt  fi>cnts  the 
riv^)  is  li  narrow  scaftbldin^}  which  U  also  ascended 
by  a  pieeb  otf  timber^ with  ste|)s  cut  in  it;  andateacH 
c^rneVof  this  erection  the«e  are  upeningsv  for  the  in- 
hfthiMi^'iift  lea^e  natuf  e.'    ^s'  it  doeft  not  appea^r  to  be 
€1  dt6tc/m^'4t«Ang^  them  <^  reinove  tltese  he^  of  e%> 
oresntfntal^iidth^  it  maf.be. «s|^pQ9edAhttt^^  «ffium 
<l^nrot;.iB[Hnof '  thcffn*>  v.mbpA  Hoi  r-  'ijiw  h^.'^'j.;r>*>-^  >  >fn' 
Vf^fl^l^  h»^se&^  <whieb  r^st  on  the  g<ro«ind,  are  btiilt  i^ 
tftt'%amft^«naterials,  and  oii  thb  same  plan.    A  slop-  . 
i^%  iX.i^  tlnieEt^  riies  tn^  ei  f5ro8Bv|He6e  e€  timber,   sup- 
ported by  two  forks,  joins  also  to  the  main  building, 
jfor  thoie  purposes  which  ileefd  not  be  repeated* 
'^  When  We  weee  fiwrwaiuded  by  thte  natives  on  o«f 
iKrriviilf  £  ominted  «iktyvfitre  linettV  a^'d-  several  of  thezia 
may   b^slGtoppvsed  to  'have  been  dv^nl;  I  cannot, 
therefotfe^  cailculate  the  inhabitants  of  this  viHage  at 
less  than  two  hundred  soqIs^ 

The  people  who  accompanied  \18  hither,  from  th6 
•other  villagt^  had  given  the  Chief  a  very  particular  ac- 
count of  every  thing. they  knew  concerning  us  :  I  was, 
therefore,  requested  to  produce  my  astronomical  in- 
istruments  {  nor  could  1  have  any  objection  to  aflfbrd 
them  this  &Btis£akction^  as  they  would  necessarily  add 
to  our  importance  in  theii^  opinion.  ;      n 

^  Near  the  house  <if  the  Ghiet  I  observed  sevei^al  <^ 
long  squares,  of  about  twenty  feet  by  eight.ArThe|' 
w^re  made  of  thick  cedar  boards,  which  were  joinefi 
with  8oi  nnich  neatness,  that  I  at  first  tllought  they^ 
w«rtj  dne  piece.  They  Wiere  painted  with  hiero- 
glyphics, and  figures  of  different  animals,  and 
with  a  degree  of  correctness  that  was  not  to  be  ej^ 
pected  from  such  an  uncultivated  pcople*^^  I  could  ndt 
learn  the  use  of  them,  but  they  appeared  to  be  calciv- 
lated  for  occasional  acts  of  de%<bti<^n,  or  sacHftce, 
which  all  these  tribes  perform  at  least  twice  in  thfe 
year,  at  the  spring  and  fall.  I  was  confirmed  in  this 
opinion  by  a  large  building  in  the  middle  of  the  vil- 
lage, which  I  at  tirst  took  for  the  half-finish^  fraiklft 


574  Jou  mat  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


of  an  house.  The  ground-plot  of  it  was  fifty  feet  by 
forty-five ;  each  end  is  formed  by  four  stout  post^ 
fixed  perpendicularly  in  the  ground.  The  comer 
opiBS  >re  plain,  and  support  a  beam  of  the  whole 
lengthy  having  three  intermediate  props  on  each  side, 
hutof  a  larger  $i;^e)  and  eight  or  nine  feet  in  height. 
The  two  center  post9ii  at  each  end,  are  two  feet  and  an 
liajif  in  dianneteri  and  carved  into  human  figure;^,  sup- 
porti^ng,twp  ridge  poles  on  their  heads,  at  twelve  feet 
from  ,the  ground.  The  figures  at  the  upper  part  of 
this  square  represent  two  persons,  with  their  hands 
upon  their  knees,  as  ifihey  supported  the  weight 
with  pain  and  difilculty  :  the  others  opposite  to 
.them  stand  at  their  ease,  with  their  hands  rest- 
ing, oji  their  hips.  In  the  »ra  of  the  building 
^' there  wer^  the  remains  of  several  fires.  The  posts, 
poleSf  and  figures,,  were  painted  red  and  black  ;  but  the 
89ulptur^  of  these  people  is  superior  to  their,  painting. 
Jl*\iday  \  9.  Soon  after  I  had  retired  to  rest  last 
night,  the  chief  paid  nie  a  visit  to  insist  on  my  going 
to  his  bed-companion,  and  taking  my  place  himself; 
but,  not\^ithstanding  his  repeated  entreaties,  I  resist- 
ed this  ofiering  of  his  hospitality. 

P  At  an  early  hour  this  morning,  I  was  again  visited 
by  the  chjef,  in  company  with  his  son.  The  former 
con);|>lained  of  ,a  pain  in  his  breast ;  to  relieve  his  suf- 
fgjrjings  1  gave  him  a  few  drops  of  Turlington's  Bal- 
sam, ^oii  a  piece  of  sugar ;  and  I  was  rather  surprized 
to  se&him  t^ke  itwitho^ut  the  least  hesitation.  When 
he.had  taken  my  medicine,  he  requested  me  to  follow 
hi|Xi|a^d  conducted  me  to  a  shed,  where  several  peo- 
ple wei^  assembled  round  a  ^ick  man^  who  was  ano- 
ther of  his ;  sons.  They  immediately  uncovered  him, 
an^  shp.w^dump., a  violent  ulcer  in  the  small  of  his 
back,  in  the  fo^jle«t:  state  that  can  be  imagined.  One 
of,  his  l^ne^^s  was  also  afilicted  in  the  same  manner. 
Tbis^^unhappy  nian  was  reduced  to  a  skeleton,  and, 
from  his  appearance,  was  drawing  near  to  an  |:nd  of 
h^a  pains.  They  requested  that  I  would  touch  him, 
and  his  father  was  very  urgent  with  me  to  administer 
medicine :  but  he  was  in  such  a  dangerous  state,  that 
1  thought  it  prudent  to  yield  no  further  to  the  impor- 


1 


N^orth'West  Continent  of  America,        373 

tunities  than  to  give  the  sick  person  a  few  drops  of 
Turlington's  Balsam  in  some  water.  1  therefore  left 
him,  but  was  soon  called  back  by  the  loud  lamenta- 
tions of  the  women,  and  was  rather  apprehensive  that ' 
some  inconvenience  might  result  from  my  compliance  ■ 
with  the  chief's  request.  On  my  returii  I  fouiid  the 
native  physicians  busy  in  practising  their  skilland  art 
on  the  patient.  They  blew  on  him,^nd  then  whistled ; 
at  times  they  pressed  their  extended  fingers,  vrith  all  . 
their  $tren^th  on  his  stomach  ;  they  also  put  their  fore 
fingeris  doubled  into  his  mouth,  and  spoutetl  water 
from  their  own  with  great  violence  into  his  face';  To 
support,  these  djiferatiortk,  the  wretched  stifFerer  was 
held  up  in  a  sitting  posture  ;  and  when  they"  were  con- 
cluded, he  was  laid  dowiiand  covered  with  a  new  robe 
made  of  the  skins  of  the  lynx.  I  had  observed  that 
his  befly  arid  bi^c^t  "W^re  cdve red  with  scars,  and  I 
understbbd  thiat  thty  were  caused  by  a  custom  preva-^ 
lent  among  them,  of  applying  pieces  of  lighted  touch- 
wood to  their  flesh,  in  order  to  relieve  pain  or  demon- 
strate their  courage.  He  was  now  placed  on  a  broad 
plank,  and  carried  by  six  men  into  the  wood»,  where  I 
was  invited  to  accompany  them.  I  could  not  conjecture 
what  would  be  the  end  of  this  ceremony,  particularly 
as  T  saw  one  man  carry  fire,  another  an  axe,  and  a 
third  dry  ^vood.  I  was  indeed,  disposed  to  stispect 
that,  as  it  was  their  custom  to  burn  the  dead,  they  in- 
tended to  relieve  the  poor  man  from  his  pain,  and  per- 
form the  last  sad  duty  of  surviving  affection .  When 
they  had  advanced  a  short  distance  into  the  wood,  they 
laid  him  upon  a  clear  spot,  and  kindled  a  fire  against 
his  back,  when  the  physician  beg&n  to  scarify  the  ul- 
cer with  a  very  blunt  instrument,"  the  cruel  pain  of 
which  operation  the  patient  bore  with  incredible  reso- 
lution.   The  scene  afflicted  me  and  Heft  it. 

On  my  return  to  our  lodge,  I  observed  before  the 
door  of  the  chief's  residence,  four  heaps  of  salmon, 
each  of  which  consisted  of  between  three  and  four 
hundred  fish.  Sixteen  women  were  etoployed  in 
cleaning  and  preparing  them.  They  first  separate  the 
bead  from  the  bodyi  the  former  of  which  they  boil  ; 


31^  JmrnoJ^ofa  Foy^  through  th9 


if'-' 

t}|py  It^en  9Utt^e  Utter  down  the  buck  qn  cftch  side  of 
\^  bqne»  let^ving  one  third  of  tihe  fish  adhering  to  it, 
and  afterwaixlft  ta^e  out  the  guts.     The  bone  is  roastt- 
(£:4  A>x  immediate  use*  and  the  other  parts  are  dreased 
il^  thi^9aine  mannei*)  but  with  more  attention}  fur  fu^ 
twi*e  provisipi]!.  VVhili?  they  are  before  the  &•&  trough* 
a,re  placed  upderthftj^  to  receive  the  oil*    Jhj?  rooa 
are  ^H9.c¥trefyiiK  pi'e^erved)  and  form  a  favorite  article 
.of  Vh^jj?  food. 
.  ^fter  I  ha4  obierved  these  cuUnMy  preparations,  I 
pal(i  a  visit  to  the  (^hiefj   who  presented  me  with   a 
roasted  salmon;  he  then  opened  one  oi  ,hu»  chests, 
an4  tooH  oiiiof  it  a  garment  of  blue  cloth,  decorated 
witi)  br£|8&  buttons  :  and  another  ofa  flowered  cotton, 
^whicb  I  supposed  were  Spanish  ;  it  had  been  trimmed 
%Tith   leather  fringe,  after  the    fa^ion  lof  their  own 
ck>a]|L&«    Copper  and   brass,  are,  ia  great  estimation 
funong  them)  and  of  the  former-  they  have  great  plen- 
ty ;  they  point  their  arrows  and  spears  with  it,  and 
wori^  it  up  into  personal  ornaments  ;  such  as  collars, 
ear-rings,  and  bracelets,  which  tlvey    wear  on  their 
wrists,  arms,   and  legs.     I  presume  they  hnd  it  the 
mo^t  advantageous  article  of  trade  with  the  more^  in- 
land  tribes*     They  also  abound  in  ivoA.   .l)>awsome 
of  Jil^ic.t.wist4jd  collar*  pf  that  nactai  which  weighed 
up|iy4^s  pf  twelve  pounds.     It  U  g*aei*ally-  in  bars  of 
fourteen  inches  in  length,  and  one  inch,  three. qiiai'ters 
wi^ei  ,  TU«  bf assu  ia  in  thin  squares  j  theiE  Qopper  is 
iq  Wge  pieces,  and  some  of  it  appeared  ta  be   old 
stillf  iCjUt  mfc.     They  have  various  trinkets  {  but  theiF 
mai^ui^tyred  iron  consists  only  of  poniards  and  dag- 
gftr>.    ^bn^e  pfthe  C<>Pine»*  have  very  neat  handle*, 
vyjkth  A  fiiAver  qqini  of  a,  quarter  or  eighth  of  a  dollar 
iiK^  pa  t)),^  en.d  e^  them*     The  blades  of  the  latter 
are,fromte% to  twelve  inches  in  length)  aod  about  four 
in^:^^  >i:o;ad  .%t  the  top,  iVom  which   they  gradually 
lessen  into  a  point* 

When  I  produced  my  instruments  to  take  an  alti- 
tude,! was  desired  not  to  make  use  of  them.  I  could 
not  then  discover  the  cause  of  this  request,  but  I  ex- 
perienced the  good  effect  of  the  apprehension  which 


)h9 

«ftieh  side  of 
hering  to  it, 
K)fie  13  ro^sit- 

ajrti  clFeased 
ition*  fur  film 
I  fii-e  irQughft 
Thj?  rao» 
vorit^  ^rt^P^ 

rparations,  I 
me  with  a 
f  ,hij»  chaats, 
tih,  decorated 
vvered  cotton* 
»t:pn  trimmed 
Off ^  their  own 
^t  f(8timatioa 
(c  great  plen- 

with  it,  and 
ch  as  coUarH) 
ear  on  their 
cy  find  it  the 

the  n\Qtf[  in- 

.|i  )iaw  3ome 
lich  weighed 
illy,  ip  bai's  of 
h»'jS}e.<iuaners 
td^si  Qopper  i& 
ed  ta  be  old 
;*j  but  theiF 
ipd^  and  dag« 
Qeat  handleai, 
tli  of  a  dollar 

ojf  th»«  latter 
^nd  about  four 
t»ey  gradually 

)  take  an  altii 
em.  I  could 
est,  but  I  ex- 
Lension  which 


North-West  Continent  of  America,       J}7T 

they  occasioned,  as  it  was  very  effectual  in  hastening 
m^  departure.  I  had  applied  several  times' to  t|ie 
chief  to  prepare  canoes  and  people  to  take  me  and  my 
party  to  the  sea,  but  very  little  attention  had  bieenj^aftl 
to  my  application  till  noon ;  when  I  was  informed  that'a 
canoe  was  properly  equipped  for  my  vova^e,  and  that 
theyoung^  thief  would  accompany  me.  ihowdiscdvfct- 
ed  that  they  had  entertained  tio  ^ei*sonftl  idar  bf  tli^ 
instrtiitients,  hut  wtre  apprehensive  that  the  op^pi- 
tion  of  them  might  frighten  the  salmon  ft^tlt  that  pat^ 
of  the  river.  The  observation  taketi  in  Khxi  tillage 
gave  me  52.  25.  52.  north  latitude.  "^^  mm^^ihA 

In  compliance  with  the  chiefs  request^  I  desirieci  ihiy 
people  to  take  their  bundles,  and  la^  them  down  on 
the  banks  of  the  river.  In  the  mean  time  I  went  to 
take  the  dimensions  of  his  large  canoe*,  in  which,  It 
was  signified  to  me,  that  about  ten  winters  ag6,  he 
went  a  considerable  distance  towards  thib«mid-day  sun, 
with  forty  of  his  people,  when  he  saw  two  large  ves- 
sels full  of  such  men  as  myself,  by  whom  he  was 
kindly  received  ;  they  were,  he  said,  the  first  white 
people  he  had  seen.  They  were  probably  the  ships 
commanded  by  Captain  Cook.  This  canoe  was  built 
of  cedar,  forty-  five  feet  long,  four  feet  wide,  and  three 
feet  and  a  half  in  depth.  It  was  paintedblack,  and  deed- 
rated  with  white  figures  of  fish  of  diffei^nt  kihdV. 
The  gunwate  fore  and  aft,  was  inlaid  with  the  tetthdf 
the  sea-otter.*  ,       ''*'"' 

When  I  returned  to  the  river,  the  native  whowefb 
to  accompany  us,  and  my  people,  Were  already  in' thb 
canoe.  The  latter,  however,  informed  me,  that' dhiK 
of  our  axes  was  missing.  I  immediately  applied  t6 
the  chief,  and  requested  its  restoration  ;  but  1)e  would 
not  understand  me  till  I  silt  myself  down  on  a  stdnei 
with  my  arras  in  a  state  of  preparation,  and  mad^  it 
appear  to  him  that  I  should  not  depart  till  the  sioleh 
article  was  restored.     The  village  was  immediately 

*  As  Captain  Cook  hai  mentioned,  that  the  people  of  the  iea-coBfl|!  lA&mti, 
theircanoes  with  human  teethi  I  wai  more  particular  in  mykiquiriei;  the  retult 
of  MThich  wai,  the  moit  tatisfactory  proof,  that  he  wai  miitaken  t  btit  m  mtotake 
arcse  from  the  very  great  retemblance  there  is  between  hunaa  tcetb  and  thaw  «1 
the  i>ea<«ttev. 

I  ii2 


S7B 


Jourftal  of  a  Voyttge  through  thi 


m  a  state  of  il)sroar,  and  tome  danger  was  apprehended 
frcym  the  conrusion  thai  prevailed  in  it.  The  axe, 
however,  which  had  been  hidden  under  the  chief's 
canoe,  was  soon  returned.  Though  this  instranient 
was  not,  in  itself,  of  sufficient  value  to  justify  a  dis-- 
pute  with  these  people,  I  apprehended  that  the  sufifer^ 
ing  them  to  keep  it«  after  we  had  declared  its  loss 
might  have  occasioned  the  loss  of  every  thing^we  car* 
ried  Vwth  us,  and  of  oar  lives  also.  My  people  were 
dissatisfied  with  me  at  the  moment .  but  1  thought 
myself  right  then,  and,  I  think  now,  that  the  circum* 
stances  in  which  we  were  involved,  justified  the  mea* 
sure  which  I  adopted. 


^^^immmmm'. 


\r 


CHAPTER  Xt. 


i,..->rl 


tiktiUm  ou/  voyage.  Clrcuflastances  of  thi  riven  lAtfd  it  flifc  fiobse  ht  a  Chif f. 
Entisftainea  t^  hUn.  Carrfed  down  the  river  with  great  rapidity  to  another 
ho^se.  Received  with  kindness.  Occupations  of  tlie  inhabitants  on  its  banks. 
Lea-^e  the  canoe  at  ?>  fall.  Pass  over  land  to  another  villa^.  Some  account  of 
it.  Obtaiti  a  view  of  an  arm  of  the  sea.  Lose  our  doe.  Procure  anotlier  ca> 
Hoe.  Airive  at  the  artto  »3f  the  sea.  Circumstarices  of  it.  One  of  our  gftiJdes 
returns  home.  Coast  along  a  bay.  Some  description  of  it.  Meet  with  Indians. 
Our  communication  with  them.  Their  susiiicious  conduct  towards  lis.  Pass 
iinwards.  Detenriine  the  latitude  and  longittuie.  Retiirn  to  the  river.  Dan* 
gerpus  encounter  with  the  Indians.    Proceed  on  our  juurney. 

SAtwiay  \i,\  ^t  one  in  thfc  afternoon  we  renewed  our 
voyage  in  a  lai^e  canoe,  with  fevir  of  the  natives.  We 
found  the  river  almost  one  continued  rapid,  and  in 
half  an  h<Kir  we  came  to  an  house,  where,  however^ 
we  did  not  land,  though  invited  by  the  inhabitants* 
In  about  an  hour  we  arrived  at  two  houses^  where  we. 
were,  in  some  degree,  obliged  to  go  on  shore,  as  we 
Were  informed  that  the  owper  of  tliem  was  a  person 
of  consideration^  He  indeed  received  and  regaled  us 
ill  the  same  manner  as  at  the  last  village  \  and  to  in- 
ei%aae  his  conseq^uehce^  he  produced  many  European 
ftiticlesy  and  among  them  were  at  least  forty  poutida 
weight  of  old  copper  stills.  We  made  our  stay  as 
i^ort  as  possible,  and  our  host  embarked  With  us.  In 
a  v^'y  short  time  we  w«re  carried  by  the  rapidity  of 
thte  current  to  tii^other  house  of  very  large  dimei\sion% 


pprehended 
The  axe^ 
the  chief'a 
iiistruEnent 
stify  a  di»-' 
t  the  Sfuffeiv 
ed  its  loss 
lin^we  car* 
leople  were 
:  I  thought 
the  circum* 
ed  the  mea* 


In- 

hottse  of  a  Ghirf, 
^pidity  to  another 
itants  on  its  banks. 

Some  account  of 
ocure  anotber  ca^ 
One  of  our  gftiides 
Meet  with  Indiantk. 
t  towards  us.  Past 
to  the  river.  Dano 
r. 


renewed  our 
natives.  We 
apid,:and  in 
e,  however, 
inhabitantS4 
a>  where  we. 
ihore,  as  we 
as  a  person 
id  regaled  us 
:  f  and  to  in- 
ly European 
orty  pounds 
our  stay  as 
with  us.  In 
!  rapidity  o£ 
i  dimension^ 


North^West  Continent  of  America^        379 

which  >tas  partitioned  into  different  apartments^  and 
whose  doors  wer^  on  the  side.  The  inhabitants  re- 
ceived us  with  great  kindness ;  but  instead  of  fish, 
they  placed  a  long,  clean,  and  well  made  trough  be- 
fore us,  fiill  of  berries.  In  additition  to  those  which 
we  had  already  seen,  there  were  some  block,  that 
vere  larger  than  the  hurtle-berry,  and  of  a  richer  fla- 
vor :  and  others  white,  which  resembled  the  blackber- 
ry in  every  thing  but  color.  ^lere  we  saw  a  woman 
with  two  pieces  of  copper  in  her  under  lip,  as  des- 
cribed by  Captain  Cook.  I  continued  my  usual  prac- 
tice of  making  these  people  presents  in  return  for  their 
friendly  reception  and  entertainment* 

The  navigation  of  the  river  now  became  rtiore  dif- 
ficult, frtffin  the  rtuw«Sfmti9  clwametf mtawhteh  it  was 
divided,  without  any  sensible  diminution  in  the  velo- 
city of  its  current.  We  soon  readied  another  house 
of  the  common  size,  where  we  were  well  received  j. 
but  whether  our  guides  had  informed  them  that  yift 
were  not  in  want  of  any  thing,  or  that  the]^  were  de- 
ficient in  inclination,  or  perhaps  the  means,  of  being 
hospitable  to  us,  they  did  not  offer  us  any  refresh-, 
ment.  They  were  in  a  state  of  busy  preparation. 
Some  of  the  women  were  employed  in  beating  and 
preparing  the  inner  rind  of  the  cedar  bark,  to  which 
they  gave  the  appearance  of  flax.  Others  were  spin-^ 
ning  with  a  diiltaff  and  spindle.  One  of  them;  wa« 
weaving  a  robe  of  it  iiitermlxed  with  the  8tripet:.«rf 
the  sea*<>tter  skin,  on  a  frame  of  adequate  con^rivaifco' 
that  was  placed  against  the  side  of  the  house.  The 
men  were  fishing  on  the  river  with  drag-nets  between 
two  canoes.  These  nets  are  forced  by  poles  to  the 
bottom,  the  current  driving  them  before  it ;  by  which 
means  the  salmon  coming  Up  the  river  aire  intercept^ 
ed,  and  give  notice  of  their  being  taken  by  the  strug- 
gles they  make  in  the  bag  or  sleeve  of  the  net*  There 
are  no  weirs  in  this  part  of  the  river,  as  I  suppote^ 
fh)m  the  numerous  channels  into  which  it  is  divided,, 
The^'machines,  therefore,  are  placed  along  the  banks, 
and  Consequently  these  people  are  not  so  well  sup« 
plied  with  fish  as  the  village  which  has  been  already 


380         Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

described)  noc  do  they  appear  to  possess  the  same 
industry.  The  inhabitants  of  the  last  house  acconi' 
panied  ub  in  a  lar^e  canoe.  They  recommended  us 
to  leave  ours  here^  as  the  next  village  was  but  at 
a  small  distance  from  us,  and  the  water  more  rapid 
than  that  vdiich  we  had  passed.  They  informed  us 
also,  that  we  were  approaching  a  cascade.  I  directed 
them  to  shoot  it,  and  proceeded  myself  to  the  foot 
thereof,  where  I  re*embarked,  and  w^  went  on  With 
great  velocity,  till  we  came  to  a  fall,  where  we  left 
our  canoe,  and  cariied  our  luggage  along  a  road 
through  a  wood  for  some  hundred  yards,  when  we 
came  to  a  village,  consisting  of  six  very  large  houses, 
erected  on  pallisades,  rising  twenty<livc  feet  from 
the  ground,  which  differed  in  no  one  circumstance 
ifrom  those  already  described,  but  the  l^eight  of  their 
elevation*  They  contained  only  four  men  and  their 
families.  The  ruhX  of  the  inhabitants  werie  with  us 
and  in  the  small  houses  which  we  passed  higher  up 
the  river.*  These  people  do  not  seem  to  enjoy  the 
abundance  of  their  neighbors,  as  the  men  who  re- 
turned from  fishing  had  no  more  than  five  salmon  ; 
they  refused  to  sell  one  of  them,  but  gavt  rae  one 
roasted  of  a  very  indifferent  kind.  In  the  houses 
there  were  several  chests  or  boxes  containing  differ- 
ent articles  that  belonged  to  the  people  whom  -we 
had  lately  >  passed.  If  I  were  to  judge  by  the  heaps  of 
filth  beneath  these  buildings,  they  must  have  been 
erected  at  a  more  distant  period  than  any  which  we 
had  passed.  From  these  houses  I  could  perceive  the 
termination  of  the  river,  and  its  discharge  into  a  nar- 
row arm  of  the  sea. 

As  it  was  now  half  past  six  in  the  evening,  and  the 
weather  cloudy,  I  determined  to  remain  here  for  the 
night,  and  for  that  purpose  we  possessed  ourselves 
of  one  of  the  unoccupied  houses.  The  remains  of 
our  last.meal,  which  we  brought  with  us,  served  for 
our  supper,  as  we  could  not  procure  a  single  fish 
from  the  natives.     The  course  of  the  river   is  about 


*  Mr.  Johnstone  came  to  these  bousei  the  firu  daj  of  the  pieceding  month. 


he 

:8s  the  same 
mse   accom- 
mmended  us 
;  was   but  at 
more  rapid 
informed  us 
I  directed 
to   the  foot 
irent  on  With 
here  we  left 
ong    a    road 
rls,  when  we 
arge  houses, 
2    feet   from 
:ircumstahce 
igbt  of  their 
!n  and  their 
i^erie  with  us 
:d  higher  up 
to  enjoy  the 
I  en  who  re- 
ive salmon  ; 
gavt  file  one 
the   houses 
lining  differ- 
5   whom  we 
the  heaps  of 
\t  have  been 
y   which  we 
perceive  the 
i  into  a  nar- 

ing,  and  the 
here  for  the 
ed  ourselves 

remains  of 
^  served  for 

single  fish 
^er  is  about 

cding  montlk 


North'Weit  Continen  i  of  Amer  iea,         3tl 

westf  and  the  distance  from  the  great  village  upwards 
of  thirty-six   miles.     There   we  had  lost  our  dog>  |^ 
circumstance  of  no  small  regret  to  mt* 

Saturday  20.  We  rose  at  a  very  early  hour  thit 
morning,  when  I  proposed  to  the  Indians  to  run 
down  our  cahoe,  or  procure  another  at  this  place.  To 
both  these  proposals  they  turned  a  deaf  ear,  as  they 
imagined  that  I  should  be  satisfied  with  having  com» 
in  »ight  of  the  sea.  Two  of  them  peremptorily  re- 
fused to  proceed  )  but  the  other  ttvo  havini^  consented 
to  cont'mue  with  us,  we  obtained  a  larger  canoe  than 
our  former  ono^  and  though  it  was  in  a  leaky  frtate 
we  were  glad  to  possess  it. 

At  about  eight  we  got  out  of  the  river,  which  dis* 
charges  itself  by  various  channels  into  an  arm  of  the 
sea*  The  tide  was  out,  and  had  left  a  large  space  co« 
vered  with  sea-weed.  The  surrounding  hills  were  iu« 
volved  in  fog*  The  wind  was  west,  which  wasarhead 
of  us,  and  very  strong  ;  the  bay  appearing  to  be 
from  one  to  three  miles  in  breadth.  As  we  advanced 
along  the  land  we  saw  a  great  number  of  sea-otters. 
We  fired  several  shots  at  them,  but  without  any  suc- 
cess from  the  rapidity  with  which  they  plunge  under 
the  water.  We  also  saw  many  small  porpoises  of  di* 
vers.  The  White-headed  eagle,  which  is  common  in 
the  interior  parts  ;  seme  small  gulls,  a  dark  bird 
which  is  inferior  in  size  to  the  gull,  and  a  few  sijiBll 
ducks,  were  all  the  birds  which  presented  Ih^in^ 
selves  to  our  view. 

At  two  in  the  afternoon  the  swell  was  so  high,  >a?id 
the  wind,  which  was  against  us,  so  boisterous,  that 
we  could  not  proceed  with  our  leaky  vessel,  we  there- 
fore landed  in  a  small  cove  on  the  right  side  of  th« 
bay.  Opposite  to  Us  appeared  another  small*  bay^iin 
the  mouth  of  which  is  an  island,  and. w^re,  accords 
ing  to  the  information  of  the  Indians,  a  river^  dit^ 
charges  itself  that  abmmds  in  salmoB. 

Our  young  Indians  now  discovered  a  very  etide 
disposition  to  leave  us  $  and,  in  the  evening,  one  of 
them  made  his  escape.  Mr.  Mackay,  however,  with 
the  other,  pursued  and  brought  him  back  i  but  as  it 


382  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

■was  by  no  means  necessary  to  detain  him,  particular- 
ly  as  provisions  did  not  u)>ound  with  us,  i  i^avc  him  a 
small  portion,  with  a  pair  of  shoes,  which  were  ne- 
cessary for  this  journey,  and  a  silk  hun  .^erchief,  tel- 
ling him  at  the  same  time,  that  he  miyi^ht  ^^o  and  in- 
form his  friends,  that  we  should  also  rciurti  in  three 
nights.  He  accordingly  left  us,  and  his  companion, 
the  young  Chief,  went  with  him. 

When  we  landed,  the  tide  was  i.oing  out,  and  at  a 
quarter  past  four  it  was  ebb,  the  water  having  ilillen  in 
that  short  periodelcvcnfeet  and  an  half  since  we  left  the 
river,  not  a  quarter  of  an  hour  had  passed  in  w  hich  we 
did  not  see  porpoises  and  sea-otters.  Soon  after  ten 
it  was  high  water,  which  rendered  it  necessary  that 
ji^ur  baggage  should  he  shifted  several  times,  though 
•xMlt.till  some  of  the  things  had  been  wetted. 

jWe  were  now  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  looking 
for  fresh  water,  with  which  we  n'ere  plentifully 
supplied  by  tlie  rills  that  run  down  from  the  mountains* 
When  it  was  dark,  the  young  Chief  returned  to  us 
bearing  a  large  porcupine .  on  his  back.  He  first 
cut  the  animal  open,  and  having  disencumbered  it  of 
the  entrails,  threw  them  into  the  sea  ;  he  then  singed 
its  bfwln,  and  boiled  it  in  separate  pieces,  as  our  keftle 
was  not  sufficiently  capacious  to  contain  the  whole :  nor 
1^  he  gato  rest,  till,  with  the  assistance  of  two  of  my 
)le  who  happened  to  be  awuke,  every  morsel  of  it 
roured* 
flattered  myself  with  the  hope  of  getting  a 
Tnce  of  the  moon  and  stars,  but  the  cloudy  weather 
continually  disappointed  me,  and  I  began  to  fear  that  I 
should  fail  in  this  important  object ;  particularly  as  our 
provisions  were  at  a  very  low  ebb,  and  we  had,  as  yet, 
jDo  reason  to  expect  any  assistance  from  the  natives. 
Our  stock  w^,  at  this  time,  reduced  to  twenty  pounds 
weight  of  peinti^ican,  fifteen  pounds  of  rice,  and  six 
founds  of  flour^^mong  ten  half-starved  men,  in  a 
^aky  vessel,  and  on  a  barbarous  coast.  Our  course 
from  the  ri^r  was  about  west-south-west)  distance 
ten  miles,     %  .   *  .  ' 


fium 

ingit 

diculai 

Mr.  M 

which 

regale, 

fish. 

that  he 

ing  to 

from  t 

after  I 

water, 

med  P( 

seven  n 

and  an 

often  c 

tain  the 

whethe 

nels  of 

for  taki 

along  tl 

an   hall 

north  th 

run  noi 

south-w 

from  thi 

(where 

From   t 

left  app< 

Unde 

iifteen  r 

as  if  pre 

former  < 

fear  of 

young  r 

tion  coni 

the  samt 

spoke  th 

ent    ace 

had  in  o 

dain«  Oi 


}J'orth'lVe8t  Continent  of  America,         383 


ar'icular- 
ive  him  a 
were  ne- 
;hicf,  tel- 
)  and  in- 
1  in  three 
mpanion, 

i.::    i*^    -'^1 

f'«nd'ata 
^  lUllen  in 
Ae  left  the 
which  we 
1  after  ten 
%sury  that 
;b,  though 

»f  looking 
plentifully 
nountnins* 
rned  to  uft 
I  He  first 
ered  it  of 
icn  singed 
our  kertle 
;vhole :  nor 
twoof  mjr 
Lorsel  of  it 

getting  a 

ly  weather 

fear  that  I 

irly  as  our 

ad^asyety 

Le  natives. 

■ty  pounds 

6)  and  six 

len,   in  a 

ur  course 

t)  distance 


flunday  21,  At  forty  minutes  past  four  this  morn- 
ing it  was  low  water)  which  made  fifteen  feet  perpen- 
dicular height  below  the  high-watermark  of  last  night. 
Mr.  Mackay  collected  a  quantity  of  small  muscles, 
which  we  boiled.  Our  people  did  not  partake  of  this 
regale,  as  they  are  wholly  unacquainted  with  sea  shell- 
fish* Our  young  chief  bein;;  miusing,  we  imagined 
that  he  had  taken  his  flight,  but,  as  we  were  prepar- 
ing to  depart,  he  fortunately  made  his  appearance 
from  the  woods,  where  he  had  been  to  take  his  rest 
after  his  feast  of  last  night.  At  six  we  were  upon  the 
water,  when  we  cleared  the  small  bay,  which  we  na- 
med Porcupine  Cove,  and  steet*ed  west-south-west  for 
seven  miles,  we  then  opened  a  channel  about  two  miles, 
and  an  half  wide  at  south-south-west,  and  had  a  view 
often  or  twelve  miles  into  it.  As  I  could  not  ascer- 
tain the  distance  from  the  open  sea,  and  being  uncertain 
whether  we  were  in  a  bay,  or  among  inlets  and  chan- 
nels of  islands,  I  confined  my  search  to  a  proper  place 
for  taking  an  observation.  We  steered,  therefore, 
ulong  the  land  on  the  left,  west-north-west  a  mile  and 
an  half  ;  then  north-west  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  and 
north  three  miles  to  an  island ;  the  land  continuing  to 
run  north-north-west,  then  along  the  island,  so'iitji- 
south-west  half  a  mile,  west  a  mile  and  an  half,  arid 
from  thence  directly  across  to  the  land  on  the  left 
(where  I  had  an  altitude)  south-west  three  miles.  * 
From  this  position  a  channel,  of  which  the  island  we 
left  appeared  to  li^e  a  cheek,  bears  north  by  east. 

Under  the  lanerav!^  met  with  three  canoes,  with 
iifteen  men  in  them,  and  laden  with  their  moveables, 
as  if  proceeding  to  a  new  situation,  or  returning  to  a 
former  one.  They  manifested  no  kind  of  mistj:ustor 
fear  of  us,  but  entered  into  cbnversation  with  our 
young  man,  as  I  supposed,  to  obtain  some  infoi'ma- 
lion  concerning  us.  It  did  not  appear  that  Jhey  were 
the  same  people  as  those  we  had  lately  seen,  as  they 
spoke  the  language  of  our  young  chief,  with  a  differ- 
ent accent,  They  then  examined  every  thing  we 
had  in  our  canoe,  with  an  air  of  indifference  and  dis- 
dain. One  of  them  in  particular  made  me  understand^ 

*  The  Cape  or  Point  Menzics  of  Vancou^. 


««r*»"' 


084  Journal  ofd  Voyage  through  the 

/with  an  air  of  insolfiice^  that  a  large  canoe  had  lately 
bfien  in  this  bay,  with  people  in  her  like  me,  and  that 
one  of  thtm,  whom  he  Cdlled  Manibah,  had  fit-ed  on 
him  and  his  friends,  and  then  JBcHtina  had  struck  him 
on  the  back,  with  the  flat  part  of  his  sword.  He  also 
mentioned  another  name,  the  articulation  of  which  I 
could  not  determi.ie.  At  the  same  time  he  illustrated 
these  circumstances  by  the  assistance  of  my  gun  and 
sword  ;  and  I  do  not  dtubt  but  he  well  deserved  the 
treatment  which  he  described.  He  also  produced  se- 
Vcral  European  articles,  which  could  not  have  been 
lopg  in  his  possession.  Fi'om  his  conduct  and  ap- 
pearance, I  wished  very  much  to  be  rid  of  him,  and 
'  flattered  myself  that  he  would  prosecute  his  voyage, 
<J  which  appeared  to  be  in  an  opposite  direction  to  our 
course.  However,  when  I  prepared  to  part  from 
them,  they  turned  their  canoes  about,  and  persuaded 
my  young  man  to  leave  me,  which  I  could  not  pre- 
vent. 

We  coasted  ajong  the  land* at  about  west-south- 
west for  six  miles,  and  iiaiet  a  canoe  with  two  boys  in 
it,  who  were  dispatched  ^^lummon  the  people  on  that 
part  of  the  coast  to  join  theiii.  The  troublesome  fel- 
low now  forced  himself  into  my  canoe,  and  pointed 
out  a  narrow  channel  on  thv  opposite  shore,  thut  led 
to  his  village,  and  requested  us  to  steer  towards  it, 
■Which  I  accordingly  ordered.  His  importunities  now 
*  became  very  irksome,  and  he  Wj^ted  to  see  every 
.  thing  we  had,  particularly  my  itM*uments  concern- 
ing which  he  must  have  rccei^ppF  information  from 
my  young  man.  He  asked  for  my  hat,  my  handker- 
chtfi^  and,  in  short,  every  thinghe  saw  about  me.  At 
the  same  time  he  fr^uently  repeated  the  unpleasant 
intelligence  that  he  Mul  been  shot  at  by  people  of  my 
color.  At  some^jjKance  from  the  land  a  channel 
opened  to  us,  atl^Pl^-^^'^^'t  ^Y  west,  and  pointing  that 
A  way,  he  made  me  understand  that  Macubah  came 
there  with  his  large  canoe.  When  we  were  in  mid- 
channel,  I  perceived  some  sheds,  or  the  remains  of 
old  buildings,  on  the  shore  ;    and  as,    from  that  c?r- 

*  Named  hj  VaRcoarer  King's  island. 


cumsti 

tril^ht 
liiake  i 
miles  1 
We 
sitiiatic 
oVergjiH 
there  \ 
lion  as 

Vftt^  s< 

taiiled 
We  wer 
many  c 
very  ^j 
tated  a] 
€'d  my  i 
desired 
td  be  pi 
themsel 

Wei 
of  a  ro( 
twice  o 
ihg  oiir 
attackei 
the   mc 
to  irrita 
no  soon 
several 
visitors 
compan 
tlon  to 
sun-set 
ties,  by 

Anot 
stout  w 
contain! 
that  wa 
manded 
could  n( 
actually 
broad 


NoHhAVest  Continent  ofAtnefku.  fld5 


had  lately 
:,  and  that 
d  fited  on 
struck  him 
.  He  also 
of  which  I 
;  illustrated 
\y  gun  and 
served  the 
oduced  se- 

have  been 
ct  and  ap- 
)f  him,  and 
his  voyage, 
tion   to  our 

part  from 
1  persuaded 
lid  not  pre- 

weat-south- 
two  boys  in 
ople  on  that 
ilesome  fel- 
and  pointed 
3 re,  th'dt  led 
towards  it, 
unities  now 
)  see  every 
kts  concern- 
nation  from 
ny  handker- 
bout  me.  At 
i  unpleasant 
)eople  of  my 
a    channel 
pointing  that 
acubah  came 
ivere  in  mid- 
e  remains  of 
)m  that  cfr- 


cumst&nce,  I  thought  it  t  ^babl^  that  soitie  Eiirctpfean^ 
tnl^ht  have  been  there,  1  directed  my  Pteersm'ah  to 
iriake  for  that  spot.  The  traverse  is  Upwards  of  three 
miles  north-west. 

We  landed,  and  foUnd  the  ruins  of  a  village,  in  a 
situation  calculated  for  defence.  The  place  itself  was 
oVer^ixiWli  with  weeds,  arid  in  the  centre  of  the  houseii 
there  Was  a  temple^  of  the  sumie  form  and  construc- 
tion as  that  I*  described  at  the  large  village^  We 
wer^  96oti  followed  by  ten  canoes,  each  of  Which  con- 
tained front  threle  to  s\%  men.  They  inforn.ed  lis  that 
we  itere  expiectedr  at  the  tillagis^  where,  we  should  see 
maiiy  of  theitt.  Ft&m  their  general  deportment  I  was 
very  appriehensivc  that  some  hostile  design  was  medi- 
tated agaih^t  us,  and  for  the  first  time  I  at kiiovir legg- 
ed my  sLpp^hensions  to  my  people.  I  accordingly 
desired  them  to  be  very  much  Upon  their  giiard^  and 
td  be  prepared  if  atiy  violence  was  offered  to  defend 
themselves  to  the  last. 

We  had  no  sooner  landed,  thaft  we  took  possession 
of  a  rockj  where  there  was  riot  aipdfee  for  niore  than 
twice  our  number,  and  which  admitted  of  our  defend- 
ing oui'selves  With  advantage,  in  case  We  should  be 
attacked.  The  people  in  the  three  first  ceinoes^  were 
the  most  troublesome,  but,  after  doing  thejjr'  Vitmost 
to  irritate  us,  they  Went  away.  They  were,  hoWevcfj 
no  sooner  gone,  than  an  hat,  an  handkerchief) 
several  othfer-articl6s,  were  missing.  The  rest  of  0llr 
visitors  continued  their  pressing  invitations  to  ac- 
company them  ti  their  village,  but  finding  our  resolu- 
tion to  decline  them  Was  nbt  to  be  shaken,  they  about 
sun-set  relieved  us  frorti  from  all  further  importuni- 
ties, by  their  departure. 

Another  canoe,  however,  soon  arrived,  witfc  seven, 
stout  well-looking  men.  They  brought  a  box,  which 
contained  a  very  fine  sea-otter  skin,  and  a  goat-skin, 
that  was  beatifully  white.  For  the  former  they  de- 
manded my  hanger,  which,  as  may  well  be  supposed, 
could  not  be  spared  in  our  present  diiuation,  and  they 
actually  refused  to  take  a  yard  and  an  half  of  common 
broad  cloth,   with  some  other  articles,  for  the  skin« 

Kk 


386  yournal  of  a  Voyage  th  rough  thi 

which  proves  the  unreflecting  improvidence  of  oui? 
E^uropean  traders.  The  goat-skin  was  so  bulky  that 
I  did  not  offer  to  purchase  it.  These  men  also  to.d 
me  that  Macubah  had  been  there,  and  left  his  ship  be- 
hind a  point  of  land  in  the  channel)  south-west  from 
us ;  from  whence  he  had  come  to  their  village  i  ^  boats, 
"which  these  people  represented  by  imitating  our  man- 
ner of  rowing.  When  I  offered  them  what  they  did 
not  choose  to  accept  for  the  otter-skin,  they  shook 
their  heads,  and  very  distinctly  answered  "  No,  no." 
And  to  mark  their  refusal  of  any  thing  we  asked  from 
them,  they  emphatically  employed  the  same  British 
monosyllable.  In  one  of  the  c.aioes  which  had  left 
us,  there  was  a  seal,  that  I  wished  to  purchase,  but 
^could  not  persuade  the  natives  to  part  with  it.  They 
had  also  a  fish,  which  I  now  saw  for  the  first  time.  It 
was  about  eighteen  inches  in  length,  of  the  shape 
and  appearance  of  a  trout,  with  strong,  sharp  teeth. 
We  saw  great  numbers  of  the  animals  which  we  had 
taken  for  sea-otters,  but  I  was  now  disposed  to  think 
that  a  great  part  of  them,  at  least,  must  have  been 
seals. 

The  natives  having  left  us,  we  made  a  fire  to  warm 
ourselves,  and  as  for  supper,  there  was  but  little  of 
that,  for  our  whole  daily  allowance  did  not  amount 
to  what  was  sufficient  for  a  single  meal.  The  wea- 
ther was  clear  throughout  the  day,  which  w^s  suc- 
ceeded by  a  fine  moon-light  night.  I  directed  the 
people  to  keep  watch  by  two  in  turn,  and  laid  myself 
down  in  my  cloak.   , 

Monday  22.  This  morning  the  weather  was  clear 
and  pleasant  ;  nor  had  any  thing  occurred  to  disturb 
us  throughout  '^e  night.  One  solitary  Indian,  in- 
deed, came  to  us  with  about  half  a  pound  of  boiled 
seal's  flesh,  and  the  head  of  a  small  salmon,  for  which 
he  asked  an  handkerchief,  but  afterwards  accepted  a 
few  beads.  As  this  man  came  alone,  1  concluded 
that  no  general  plan  had  been  formed  among  the  na- 
tj-es  to  annoy  us,  but  this  opinion  did  not  altogether 
calm  the  apprehensions  of  my  people. 

Soon  after  eight  in  th«  looming,  I  took  five  alti- 


North-West  Continent  of  America.        387 

Itides  for  time,  and  the  mean  of  them  was   36"  4b'  at 
six    in   the   afternoon,    58.    34.  time,  by  the   watch, 
which    makes    the  aerometer  slow    apparent    time 
1^  21™  44^. 

Two  canoes  now  arrived  from  the  same  quarter  as 
the  rest,  with  several  men,  and  our  young  Indian 
along  with  them.  They  brought  a  very  few  small 
sea-otter  skins,  out  of  season,  with  some  pieces  of 
raw  seal's  flesh.  The  former  were  of  no  value,  but 
hunger  compelled  some  of  my  people  to  take  the  lat- 
ter, at  an  extravagant  price.  Mr.  Mackay  lighted  a 
bit  of  touch  wood  with  a  burning  glass,  in  the  cover 
of  his  tobacco-box,  which  so  surprised  the  natives,  that 
they  exchanged  the  best  of  their  otter-skins  for  it. 
The  young  man  was  now  very  anxious  to  persuade 
our  people  to  depart,  as  the  natives  he  said,  were  as 
numerous  as  musquitoes,  and  of  a  very  malignant 
character.  This  information  produced  some  very 
earnest  remonstrances  to  me  to  hasten  our  departure, 
but  as  I  was  determined  not  to  leave  this  place,  ex- 
cept I  was  absolutely  compelled  to  it,  till  I  had  as- 
certained its  situation,  these  solicitations  were  not 
repeated. 

While  I  was  taking  a  meridian,  two  canoes  of  a 
larger  size,  and  well  manned,  appeared  from  the  main 
south-west  channel.  They  seemed  to  be  the  fore- 
runners of  others,  who  were  coming  to  co-operate 
with  the  people  of  the  village,  in  consequence  of  the 
message  sent  by  the  two  boys,  which  has  been  already 
mentioned  ;  and  our  young  Indian,  who  understood 
them,  renewed  his  intreaties  for  our  departure,  as 
they  would  soon  come  to  shoot  with  their  arrows,  and 
liurl  their  spears  at  us.  In  relating  our  danger,  his 
agitation  was  so  violent,  that  he  foamed  at  the  mouth. 
Though  I  was  not  altogether  free  from  apprehensions 
on  the  occasion,  it  was  necessary  for  me  to  disguise 
them,  as  ray  people  were  panic  struck,  and  some  of 
them  asked  if  it  was  my  determination  to  remain 
there  to  be  sacrificed  I  My  reply  was  the  same  as 
their  former  importunities  had  received,  that  I  would 
not  stir  till  I   had  accomplished  my  object }  at  tW 


•^.^8  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

sarr.e  time,  to  humor  their  fears,  I  consented  that 
they  should  put  every  thing  into  the  canoe,  th?it  we 
nilg^it  be  in  a  state  of  preparation  to  depart.  The 
two  canoes  now  approached  the  shore,  and  in  a  short 
time  fivp  men,  with  tliejr  families,  landed  very  quiet- 
ly frpnfi  them  with  much  apparent  admiration  and 
astonishnicnt.  My  altitude,  oy  an  artificial  horizon, 
gave  52°  2K  33";  that  by  the  natijral  horizon  was 
42*^  2f/  48"  north  latitude.* 

These  Indians  were  of  a  different  tribe  from  those 
which  I  had  already  seen,  as  our  guide  did  not  under- 
jjtand  their  language.  I  now  mixed  up  some  vermi- 
lion in  melted  grease,  and  inscribed,  in  large  charac- 
ters, on  th  south-east  face  of  the  rock  on  which  we 
had  slept  last  night,  this  bri^f  memorial — "  Alexander 
**  Mackenzie,  from  Canada,  by  land,  the  twenty- 
"  second  of  July,  one  thousand  seven  hun4red  and 
*'  ninety-three." 

As  I  thought  that  we  were  too  near  the  village,  I 
consented  Jto  leave  this  place,  and  accordingly  pro- 
ceeded north-east  three  miles,  \vhen  we  landed  on  a 
I)oint,  in  a  small  cove,  where  we  should  not  be  readi- 
ly seen,  and  could  not  be  attacked  except  in  pur 
fron^. 

Aiifiong  other  articles  that  had  been  stolen  from  us, 
at  our  lust  station,  was  a  sounding-line,  which  }.  in- 
tended to  have  cniployed  in  this  bay,  though  I  should 
not  probably  have  found  the  bottom,  at  any  distances 
fi  om  the  shore,  as  the  appearance  both  of  the  water 
and  land  indicated  a  great  depth.  The  latter  display- 
ed a  solid  rock,  rising,  as  it  appeared  to  me,  from 
three  to  seven  hundred  feet  t^ipove  high-water  mark. 
AVhere  any  soil  was  scattered  about^  there  were  ce- 
dars, spruc^^firs,  wi^ite  birch,  and  other  trees  qf  large 
growth.  From  its  precipices  issued  streams  of  fi^c 
water,  ^s  cold  as  i^e. 

Tiie  two  canoes  which  we  had  left  at  ou^  last  sta- 
tion followed  us  hither,  and  vhen  they  wf  re  prepar- 
itig  to  depj^rt,  oi^r  young  chief  enibarked  with  them. 


'  Va^  I  f^u^  ^  ]^  ti\5  chf e|^.  oi  y»9cottV«r's  9\^(^H4f  9^.^ 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        38S 


I  was  determined,  however,  to  prevent  his  escape, 
and  compelled  him,  by  actual  force,  to  come  on  shore, 
for  1  thought  it  much  better  to  incur  his  displeasure, 
than  to  suffer  him  to  expose  himself  to  any  untoward 
accident  among  strangers,  or  to  return  to  his  father 
before  us.  The  men  in  the  canoe  made  signs  for  hin* 
to  go  over  the  hill,  and  that  they  would  take  him  on 
board  at  the  other  side  of  it.  As  I  was  necessarily 
engaged  in  other  matters,  1  desired  my  people  to  take 
care  that  he  should  not  run  away ;  but  they  peremp- 
torily refused  to  be  employed  in  keeping  him  against 
his  will.  I  was,  theVefore,  reduced  to  the  necessity 
of  watching  him  myself. 

I  look  five  altitudes,  and  the  mean  of  them  was  29. 
23.  48.  at  3.  5.  53.  in  th^  afternoon,  by  the  watch, 
which  makes  it  slow  apparent  time 

ih    22'°  38* 
Iif  the  forenoon  it  was      1     21     44        2     44     22  ' 


Mean  of  both 

difference  nine  hours  going  of  the  time-piece  slow 


I      22 


11 
8 


1      22      19 


I  observed  an  emersion  of  Jupiter's  third  satellite, 
which  gave  8**  32'  21"  diliference  of  longitude.  I 
then  obaerved  an  emersion  of  Jupiter's  first  satellite, 
which  gave  8.  31,  48.  The  mean  of  these  observa- 
tions is  8°  32'  2*  which  is  equal  to  128.  2.  west  of 
Greenwich. 

I  had  now  determined  my  situation*  which  is  the 
most  fortunate  circumstance  of  my  long,  painful,  and 
perilous  journey,  as  a  few  cloudy  days  would  have 
prevented  me  from  ascertaining  the  final  longitude 
of  it.* 

*  Mr,  Meares  was  undoubtedly  wrong  in  the  idea,  so  earnestly  insisted  on  by  him, 
in  his  voyage,  that  tlieie  was  a  nurth-west  practicable  passage  to  the  southward  of 
sixty-nine  degrees  and  an  half  of  latitude,  as  I  flatter  myself  lias  been  proved  by 
njy  former  voyage.  Nor  can  I  refiain.frora  expressing  my  surprise  at  his  assertion, 
that  there  was  an  inland  sea,  or  archi|)elago,  or  great  extent,  between  the  islands 
of .  Nootka  and  the  main,  about  the  latitude  where  I  was  at  this  time.  Indeed,  I 
have  been  informed  that  Captain  Grey,  who  commanded  an  American  vessel,  and 
on  whose  authority  he  ventured  this  opinion,  denies  that  he  had  given  Mr.  Meares 
any  such  information.  Besides,  the  contrary  is  indubitably  proved  by  Captlitt. 
Yancotiver's  survey,  from  which  no  appeal  can  be  made. 

Kk2 


a^O         jfoumulefa  Voyage  thrwgh  the 

At  twelve  it  was  high  water,  but  the  tide  did  not  come 
within  a  foot  and  an  half  of  the  high  water  m%rk  of 
last  night,  /aq  soon  as  I  had  completed  my  ofiserva- 
tions,  we  left  this  place  ;  it  was  ihen  ten  o'ciocsli  in 
the  evening. 

We  returned  th;;  same  way  that  we  came,  and 
though  the  tide  was  running  out  very  strong,  by  keep- 
)|ig  close  in  with  the  rocks,  we  proceeded  at  a  consi- 
derable rate,  as  my  people  were  very  anxious  to  get 
4>Dt  of  the  reach  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  coast. 

Tuesday  23.  During  our  course  we  saw  several 
ires  on  the  land  to  the  southwai*d,  and  after  the  day 
dawned,  their  smokes  were  visible.  At  half  past  four 
this  morning  we  arrived  at  our  encampment  of  the 
)  night  of  the  2l8t,  which  had  been  named  Porcupine 
Cove.  The  tide  was  out,  and  considerably  lower  than 
we  found  it  when  we  were  here  before  ;  the  high- 
water  mark  being  above  the  place  where  we  Irad 
made  our  fire.  This  fluctuation  must  be  occasioned 
by  the  action  of  the  wind  upon  the  water,  in  those 
narrow  channels. 

As  we  continued  onwards,  towards  the  river,  we 
saw  a  canoe,  well  manned,  which  at  first  made  from 
us  with  great  expedition,  but  afterwards  waited,  as  if 
^Q  reconnoitre  us  ;  however,  it  kept  out  of  our  way, 
and  allowed  us  to  pass.  The  tide  being  much  lower 
than  when  we  were  here  before,  we  were  under  the 
necesnity  of  landing  a  mile  below  the  village*  We 
observed  that  stakes  were  fixed  in  the  ground  along 
the  bay,  and  in  some  places  machines  were  fastened 
to  them,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  to  intercept 
the  seals  and  otters.  These  works  are  very  extensive, 
and  u»ust  bave  been  erected  with  no  common  labor. 
The  only  bird  we  saw  to  day  was  the  white-headed 
eagle.* 

Our  guide  directed  us  to  draw  the  canoe  out  of  the 
reach  of  the  tide,  and  to  leave  it.  He  would  not  wait, 
however,  till  this  operation  was  performed^  and  I  did 
not  wish  to  let  him  go  akne.     1  therefore  followed 

t  Tltii  bajr  wsu  now  named  Matkenzic's  Outlet.^ 


Ihrth'West  Continent  $f  America*        3^ 


id  not  come 
ji*  mfrk  of 
ly  ot)»erv^- 
i  o'cloclii  in 

came)  and 
f,  by  keep- 
at  a  consi> 
ous  to  get 
:oast* 

LW  several 
erthe  day 
ilf  past  four 
cnt  of  the 

Porcupine 
lower  tban 

the  high- 
^  we  Wad 
occasioned 
:r,  in  those 

;  river,  we 
made  from 
waited,  as  if 
f  our  way, 
luch  lower 

under  the 
lage.  We 
>und  along 
re  fastened 

intercept 
r  extensive, 
imon  labor, 
tiit^-heade^ 

I  out  of  the 
lid  not  wait, 
tj  and  I  did 
re  followed 


him  through  a  bad  raa«l  encumbened  with  ttn^erwooid. 
When  we  had  quitted  the  wood,  at¥i  were  in  sight  of 
the  houses,  the  young  man  being  about  fifteen  or 
twenty  paces  before  me,  I  was  surprised  to  see  two 
men  running  down  towards  me  from  one  of  thelnoiusfiSy 
with  daggers  in  their  hands,  and  fuiy  in  tiitir  aspect. 
From  their  hostile  appearance,  I  could  not  doubt  of 
their  purpose.  I  therefore  stopped  short,  threw  doMii 
my  cloak,  and  put  myself  in  a  posture  of  defence, 
with  my  gun  presented  towards  them.  ,  Fortunately 
for  me,  they  knew  the  effect  of  fire-arms,  and  instaa^- 
ly  dropped  their  daggers,  which  were  faat^ied  by  a 
string  to  their  wrists,  and  had  before  been  held  in  a 
menacing  attitude.  I  let  my  gun  also  fail  into  my 
left  hand,  and  drew  my  hanger.  Several  others  soon 
joined  Ihe^n,  w1k>  were  armed  in  the  same  manner  \ 
and  among  them  I  recognized  the  man  who>m  I  have 
already  mentioned  as  being  so  troublesome  to  us,  and 
who  now  repeated  the  names  of  Macubah  and  BenzinSy 
signifying,  at  the  same  time,  by  his  action,  as  on  a 
former  occasion,  that  he  had  been  shot  at  by  them. 
Until  I  saw  him  my  mind  was  undisturbed  ;  but  Uie 
moment  he  appeared,  conceiving  that  he  was  thecau«e 
of  my  present  perilous  situation,  my  resentment  pre< 
dominated,  and,  if  he  had  come  within  my  reach,  I  ve- 
rily believe,  that  I  should  baye  terminated  his'  inso* 
lence  for  ever. 

The  rest  now  a()proached  so  near,  that  one  of  them 
contrived  to  get  behind  me>  and  grasped  me  in  his 
arms.  I  soon  disengaged  myself  from  him;  and  that 
he  did  not  avail  himtielf  of  the  opportunity  wliLch  he 
had  of  plvinging  his  dagger  into  me,  I  cannot  conjecr 
ture.  They  certainly  might  .have  ov-cypowered  me, 
and  though  I  should  probably  have  killed  one  or  tw^ 
of  them,  I  must  have  fallen  at  last.  :    .'        : 

One  of  my  people  now  came  out  of  the  wpod*  On 
his  appearance  they  instantly  took  to  Sight,  and  with 
the  utmost  speed  sowght  shelter  in  the  houses  from 
which  they,  had  issued.  It  was,  however,  upwards  of 
ten  minutes  before  all  my  people  joined  me;  and  a» 
they  came  one  after  the  other,  these  people  miji^ht 


493  .       journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 


have  successively  dispatched  every  one  of  us.  If  they 
had  killed  me,  in  the  first  instance,  this  consequence 
"Would  certainly  have  followed,  and  rot  one  of  us  would 
have  returned  home  to  tell  the  horrid  fate  of  his  com- 
panions. 

After  having  stated  the  danger  I  had  encountered, 
I  told  nAy  people  that  I  was  determined  to  make  these 
natives  feel  the  impropriety  of  their  conduct  towards 
us,  and  compel  them  to  return  my  hat  and  cloak  which 
they  had  taken  in  the  scuffle,  as  well  as  the  articles 
previously  purloined  from  us;  for  most  of  the  men 
who  were  in  the  three  canoes  that  we  first  saw,  were 
now  in  the  village.  I  therefore  told  my  men  to  prime 
their  pieces  afresh,  and  prepare  themselves  for  ac- 
tive use  of  them,  if  'ihe  occasion  should  require  it. 

We  now  drew  up  before  the  house,  and  made  signs, 
for  some  one  to  come  down  to  us.  At  length  our  young 
chief  appeared,  and  told  us  that  the  men  belonging  (a^ 
ihe  canoes  had  not  only  informed  his  friends,  that  we 
had  treated  him  very  ill,  but  that  we  had  killed  four 
of  their  companions  whom  he  had  met  in  the  bay* 
When  I  had  explained  to  them  as  well  as  it  was  in  my 
power,  the  falsehood  of  such  a  story,  I  insisted  on 
the  restoration  of  every  thing  that  had.been  taken  from 
us,  as  well  as  a  necessary  supply  of  fish,  as  the  condi*- 
tions*of  .my  departure  ;  accordingly  the  things  were 
restored,  and  a  few  dried  fish  along  with  them. .  A 
reconciliation  now  took  place,  but  our  guide  or  young 
chief  was  so  much  terrified  that  he  would  remain  no 
longer  with  us,  and  requested  us  to  follow  with  his 
father's  canoe,  or  mischief  would  follow.  I  detennire- 
ed,  however,  before  my'  departure,  to  take  an  observa- 
tion, andat  noon  got  a  meridian  altitude,  making  this 
place,  which  1  named  Rascal's  Village,  52.  23.  43^ 
north  latitude.  ' 

On  my  informing  the  natives  that  wc  wanted  some- 
thing more  to  ^at,  they  brought  u^  two  salmons ;  and 
when  we  signified  that  we  had  no  poles  to  set  the  ca- 
noe against  the  current,  they  were  furnishing  with 
equal  alacrity,  so  anxious  were  they  for  our  departure^ 


I  paid,  ] 
ed)  and 


Return  up  i 
The  hosi 
Continu 

ciption 
tinue  oi 
or  Frier 
of  tite  n 

ffl'JT 

should  I 
and  gon 
that  it  V 
oey.  h 
have  be 
on  the  £ 
with  t|i€ 
half  a  I 
been  al 
SP  much 
the  rive 
with  as  ] 
was  the 
ed  that  ( 
ger  in  t 

Nor  wa! 
in  a  xtxifi 
favor  by 
Atler 
ed  in  th< 
ceed  no 
quainter 
^escribe 
part  of  I 
tempt  tl 
them,  t« 


Ngrth'West  Cqntmnt  of  Amffica*         fiW 


is.  If  they 
>nseqiience 
>f  us  would 
>f  his  com- 

I  countered, 
nake  these 
ct  towards 
loak  which 
the  articles 
)f  the  men 
.  saw,  were 
n  to  prime 
fes  for  ac- 
quire it. 
made  signs^ 
1  our  young 
slonging  ta 
ds,  that  we 
killed  four 
in  the  bay* 
was  in  my 
insisted  on 
taken  from 
>  the  condi*- 
hings  were 
th^m.  A 
e  .or  young 
remain  no 
)w  with  his 
1  deteiiniry- 
an  observal- 
naking  this 
2.    23.   43, 

mted  some- 
Imons ;  and 
set  the  ca- 
isbing  with 
'  departure* 


I  paid,  however,  fpr  every  thing  yfhiQh  WiC  bad  receiv# 
ed}  and  did  not  fprgpt  the  lo^n  of  the  canoe. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Return  up  the  river.  Stop  T>ro|;rt  (^tbe  canoe,  frpm  the  streiwth  ofthrcanvnt, 
I'he hostile  party  uf  the  nativeii  pfccf de  ui.  Impetuou»  condifct  ^ rt^j  pepplev 
Continue  ofir  very  tedioui  voyaj^e.  Come  to  some  houses;  received  with 
creat  |cinc'ne«t.  Arrive  at  the  principal,  or  Salmon  Villakc.  Opr  uesent  rcf 
wption  very  aiflFerent  from  tlwt  we  ex|)erienc(jd  on  our  former  ^f.  Con^ 
tinueourioumcy.  Circuipistancet  of  it.  Find  our  dog.  Arrive  at  tne  Upper* 
or  Friendly  Village.  Meet  with  a  very  kind  reception.  Some  further  a^com)t 
of  tite  manner,  and  customs  of  iu  inhabii^ts.  Bf  ief  vocajHilary  of  gkit  ua^ 
^uage. 

1783.' i  i  HE  current  of  the  river  was  so  strong,  that  I 
should  have  complied  with  the  wishes  of  my  peopley 
and  gqne  by  land,  hut  one  of  my  Indiaps  was  so  weaki 
that  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  perform  the  jour<* 
Oey>  He  had  been  ill  some  time ;  and,  indeed,  w^ 
have  been  all  of  us  more  or  less  afiQicted  with  colds 
on  the  sea  coast.  Four  of  the  peop)e  therefore  set  off 
with  t|ie  canqe,  and  it  employed  them  an  hour  to  get 
half  a  mile.  In  the  mean  time  the  native,  who  has 
been  already  mentioned  as  having  treated  us  witl^ 
s^  much  insolence,  and  four  of  his  companipns  went  up 
the  river  in  a  oanoe,  which  they  had  abAve  the  rapid, 
with  as  many  boxes  as  men  in  her.  This  circumstance 
was  the  cause  of  fresh  alarms  as  it  was  generally  conclud* 
ed  that  they  would  produce  the  same  mischief  and  dan»> 
ger  in  the  villages  above,  as  they  had  in  that  below. 
^ov  wa^  it  forgotten  that  the  young  chief  had  left  us 
in  a  in^umer  which  wpuld  not  be  interpreted  i^^  our 
favor  by  his  father  and  friends. 

At  length' the  c^noe  arrived,  and  the  people  declar- 
ed in  the  most  unreserved  terms,  that  they  would  pro? 
ceed  no  further  in  her ;  but  when  they  wtre  made  ai:* 
quainted  ivith  the  circumstances  which  have  just  been 
^escribed,  their  violence  increased,  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  men  announced  their  d.etenniiiation  to  at?- 
tempt  the  mountains,  and  endeavor,  by  passing  over 
themi,  tp  gain  the  re(iBtt|f  whicUwe  CdiiMS  to  the  firM 


394  yi      alof  a  Voyage  through  the 

Village.  So  resolved  were  they  to  pursue  this  platij 
that  they  threw  every  thing  which  they  had  into  the 
river,  except  their  blankets.  ,  1  was  all  this  tinic  sit- 
ting  patiently  on  a  stone,  and  indulging  the  hope  that, 
when  their  frantic  terror  had  subsided,  their  return- 
ing reason  would  have  disposed  them  to  perceive  the 
rashness  of  their  project;  but  when  1  observed  that 
they  persisted  in  it,  I  no  longer  remained  a  silent 
listener  to  their  passionate  declarations^  but  proceeded 
to  employ  such  arguments  as  I  trusted  Would  turn  them 
from  their  senseless  and  impracticable  purpose.  Af- 
ter reproving  my  young  Indian  in  vei^  severe  terms, 
for  encouraging  the  rest  to  follow  their  mad  design  of 
passing  the  mountains,  I  adressed  myself  generally  to 
them,  stating  the  difficulty  of  ascending  the  mountains, 
the  eternal  snows  with  which  they  were  covered,  our 
ftmall  stock  of  provisions,  which  two  days  would  ex- 
haust, and  the  consequent  probability  that  we  should 
Iterish  with  cold  and  hunger.  I  urged  the  folly  of 
>eing  affected  by  the  alarm  of  danger  which  might  not 
exist,  andii  itdid,  I  encouraged  them  with  the  means 
we  possessed  of  surmounting  it.  Nor  did  I  forget  to 
urge  the  inhumanity  and  in  injustice  of  leaving  the 
poor  bick  Indian  to  languish  and  die.  I  also  added, 
that  as  my  particular  object  had  been  accomplished,  I 
had  now  no  other  but  our  common  safety ;  that  the 
sole  wish  of  my  heart  was  to  employ  the  best  means 
in  my  power,  and  to  pursue  the  best  method  which  my 
understanding  could  suggest,  to  secure  them  and  my- 
self  from  every  danger  that  might  impede  our  return. 
My  steersman,  who  had  been  with  me  for  five 
years  in  that  capacity,  instanily  replied  that  he  was 
ready  to  follow  me  wherever  I  should  go,  but  that  he 
would  never  again  enter  that  canoe,  as  he  ha4  Solemn- 
ly sworn  he  would  not.  while  he  was  in  thie  rapid. 
His  example  was  followed  by  all  the  rest,  except  two, 
who  embarked  with  Mr.  Mackay,*  myself  and  the 
sick  Indian.  The  current,  however,  was  so  strong, 
that  we  dragged  up  the  greatest  part  of  the  way,  by 


It  isbut  common  justice  to  him  to  menlio: 
fi9i  to  be  satiified  wUb  bi« conduct. 


this  place  that  I  bad  everj  re*' 


the  brand 

imagined, 

common  It 

continually 

was  carriec 

we  appear* 

canoes,  wi 

down  the  s 

occasioned 

great  rapid 

At  lengt 

saw  our  yo 

ing  to  mee 

cumstance, 

had  prcced 

every  reas 

dice  the  pe 

the  house, 

ner,  and  hs 

our  journey 

It  was   a 

house,  and 

to  our  obs< 

four  com  pa 

jects ;  but 

inhabitants] 

The  Indian 

discovered 

in  various  e 

wove  into  r 

the  latter  o 

these  they  i 

lock-bark  c 

roes,  sorrel 

ni'jch  fish  5 

meals  of  th 

cept  one,  wi 

IVedneada 

Mr.  Macka' 

as  a  gen  en 

place,  I  recc 


North'West  Continent  6f  America*        395 

the  branches  of  trees.  Our  progress,  as  may  he 
imagined,  was  very  tedious,  and  attended  with  un- 
common labor  ;  the  party  who  went  by  land  being 
continually  obliged  to  wait  for  us.  Mr.  Mackay's  gun 
was  carried  out  of  the  canoe  and  lost,  at  a  time  when 
we  appeared  to  stand  in  very  great  need  of  it,  as  two> 
canoes,  with  sixteen  or  eighteen  men,  were  coming 
down  the  stream  ;  and  the  apprehensions  which  they 
occasioned  did  not  subside  till  they  shot  by  us  with 
great  rapidity. 

At  length  we  came  in  sight  of  the  house,  when  we 
saw  our  young  Indian  with  six  others,  in  a  canoe  com<« 
ing  to  meet  us.  This  was  a  very  encouraging  cir- 
cumstance, as  it  satisfied  us  that  the  natives  who 
had  preceded,  and  whose  malignant  designs  we  had 
every  reason  to  suspect,  had  not  been  able  to  preju- 
dice the  people  against  us.  We,  therefore,  landed  at 
the  house,  where  we  were  received  in  a  friendly  man- 
ner, and  having  procured  some  fish,  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey. 

It  was  almost  dark  when  we  arrived  at  the  next 
house,  and  the  first  persons  who  presented  themselves 
to  our  observation,  were  the  turbulent  Indian  and  his 
four  companions.  They  were  not  very  agreeable  ob- 
jects ;  but  we  were  nevertheless  well  received  by  the 
inhabitants,  who  presented  us  with  fish  and  berries* 
The  Indians  who  caused  us  so  much  alarm,  we  now 
discovered  to  be  inhabitants  of  the  islands,  and  traders 
in  various  articles,  such  as  cedar-bark,  prepared  to  be 
wove  into  mats,  fish-spawn,  copper,  iron,  and  beads, 
the  latter  of  which  they  get  on  their  own  coast.  For 
these  they  receive  in  exchange  roasted  salmon,  hem- 
lock-bark cakes,  and  the  other  kind  made  of  salmon 
roes,  sorrel,  and  bitter  berries.  Having  procured  as 
m'jch  fish  as  would  serve  us  for  our  supper,  and  the 
meals  of  the  next  day,  all  my  people  went  to  rest  ex- 
cept one,  with  whom  I  kept  the  first  watch. 

IVedneaday  24.  After  twelve  last  night,  I  called  up 
Mr.  Mackay,  and  one  of  the  men,  to  relieve  us,  but 
as  a  general  tranquillity  appeared  to  prevail  in  the 
place,  I  recommended  them  tp  return  to  their  rest.   I 


Ml         yowrfud  ofd  f^nfOgi  through  thg^ 


wils  the  first  awake  in  the  mornih^i  ijin4  sent  Mh 
Mackay  to  see  if  our  canoe  retniined  where  We  left  it ; 
but  he  returned  to  inform  me  that  the  islanders  had 
loaded  it  with  their  articles  of  traffic,  artd  wire  ready 
to  depart.  On  this  intelligence  I  hurried  td  the  ^ater 
side,  and  seizing  the  canoe  by  the  stem,  t  should  cer^ 
tainty  hare  overset  it,  and  turned  thd  three  men  that 
were  in  H,  with  all  their  mcrchan(tize)'ipi6  t}fe  river^ 
had  not  onct  of  the  pebble  In  the  hoas^^,  wn(^  \n4  been 
very  kind  to  us,  informed  me  that  this  wa^  theh"  owri 
canoe,  and  that  my  guid^  had  goifie  qff  with  oti/s.  At 
the  same  moment,  the  other  two  I^diahs  who  belonged 
to  thej>arty,  jumped  nimbly  into'ii^and  pushec(  off  with 
all  the  haste  aild  hutry  thit  th^ir  fears  may  big  sup- 
Ixisbd  to  dictate* 

We  now  fouftd'  oursleW^a  oiice  niiJrt  without  a 
gtiide  or  a  canoe.  We  were,'  however^  s<^  Jori^^qiiate 
as  to  engage,  without  much  difficulty,  jWo  of  tHetie 
people  to  accompany  us  ;  as,  ffdm  the  strength  of  the 
current,  it  would  not  have  been  possible  for  us  to  hate 
firoceeded  by  water  without  theii'  assiiitance.  As  the 
house  was  upon  an  island,  we  ferried  over  the  pedes- 
trisln  party  to  the  main  bank  of  the  river,  and  cofitiu- 
ed  our  course  till  our  conductors  came  to  their  fishing 
ground,  when  they  proposed  to  land  us,  and  ttkt  small, 
portion  of  baggage  ;  but  a^  our  compaiibns  w^re  on 
the  opposite  snore,  we  could  not  acquiesce,  and  after 
some  time  persuaded  them  to  proceed  further  witli 
ii9«  Soon  after  we  met  the  chief,  who  liad  regaled  us 
in  our  voyage  down  the  river.  He  was  seining  be- 
tween two  canoes,  and  had  taken  a  considerable  Quan- 
tity of  salmon.  He  took  us  on  board  with  him,  and 
proceeded  upwards  with  great  expedition.  These 
people  are  surprisingly  skilful  and  active  in  setting 
against  a  strong  current.  In  the  soughest  part  they 
alinost  filled  the  canoe  with  water,  by  way  of  u  sportive 
alarm  to  us. 

We  landed  at  the  house  of  the  chief,  and  he  im- 
mediately placed  a  fish  before  me.  Our  people  now 
appeared  on  the  opiK>site  bank,  when  a  canoe  was  sent 
for  them.    As  soon  aa  they  hA.(\  made  their  meal  of 


ihrth'West  Continent  of  America,        397 

ft«h)  they  prroceeded  on  their  route,  and  we  followed 
them,  the  chief  and  on<;  of  the  natives  having  under- 
taken to  conduct  us. 

At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  two  houses, 
which  we  had  not  seen  in  going  down.  They  were 
upon  in  island,  and  I  was  obliged  to  send  for  the 
walking  party,  as  our  condiictors,  from  the  lateness  of 
the  hour,  refused  to  proceed  any  further  with  us  till 
the  next  day.  One  of  our  men,  being  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  the  others,  had  been  attacked  by  a  female 
bear,  with  two  cubs,  but  another  of  them  arrived  to 
his  rescue,  and  shot  her.  Their  fears  probably  pre- 
vented them  from  killing  the  two  young  ones.  They ' 
brought  a  part  of  the  meat,  but  it  was  very  indifferent. 
We  were  informed  that  our  former  guide,  or  young 
chief,  had  passed  this  place,  at  a  very  early  hour  of 
themorning,  on  foot. 

These  people  take  plenty  of  another  fish,  besides 
salmon,  which  weigh  froni  fifteen  to  forty  pounds. 
This  fish  is  broader  than  the  salmon,  of  a  greyish  co- 
lour, and  with  an  hunch  on  its  back;  the  flesh  is  white, 
but  neither  rich  nor  well  flavored.  Its  jaw  and  teeth 
are  like  those  of  a  dog,  and  the  latter  are  larger  and 
stronger  than  any  1  have  ever  seen  in  a  fish  of  equal 
size  ;  thofcc  in  front  bend  inwards,  like  the  claws  of  a 
bird  of  prey.  It  delights  in  shallow  water,  and  its: 
native  name  is  Dilly. 

We  received  as  many  fish  an<l  berries  from  these 
people  as  completely  satisfied  our  appetites.  The 
latter  excelled  any  of  the  kind  that  we  had  seen.  I' 
saw,  also,  three  kinds  of  gooseberries,  which,  as  we 
passed  through  the  woods,  we  found  in  great  abun- 
dance. 

Xhursdatj  25.  I  arose  before  the  sun,  and  the  wea- 
ther was  very  fine.  The  men  who  were  to  accompany 
us  went  to  visit  their  machines,  and  brought  back 
plenty  offish,  which  they  strung  on  a  rope,  and  left 
them  in  the  river.  We  now  embarked  thirteen  in  a 
canoe,  and  landed  my  men  on  the  south  bank,  as  it 
would  have  been  impracticable  to  have  stemmed  the 
tide  with  such  a  load.-    The  under- wood  was  so  thick 

LI 


59«  yournal  of  a  Voyage  through  tlie 

that  U  waa  with  great  difficulty  they  could  pjfs^ 
through  it.  At  nine  we  were  under  the  necessity  of 
waiting  to  ferry  them  over  a  river  from  the  south, 
>yhich  is  not  fordaWe.  After  some  time  we  came  to 
two  deserted  houses,  at  the  fopt  of  a  rapi<J^  beyond 
which  our  boatmen  absolutely  refused  to  conduct  us 
by  water.  Here  was  a  road  which  led  opppsit^  to  the 
village*  We  had,  however,  tl^e  curiosity  to  visit  the 
bouses,  which  were  erected  upon,  posts  ;,  and  we  suf-i 
fered.very  severely  for  the  indulgence  of  it ;  for  the 
floors  were  covered  with  fieas,  and  we  were  immedi- 
ately JQ  the  same  condition,  for  which  we  had  no  re- 
medy but  to  take  to  the  water.  There  was  not  a  spot 
round  the  houses  free  trom  gr^ss,  that  was  not  alive, 
5is  it  were,  with  this  vennin. 

Our  guides  proposed  to  conduct  us  on  our  way, 
and  we  followed  them  on' a  weil-l;)e£^ten  track.  They, 
however,  went  so  fast,  tliatwe  could  not  all  of  us  keep 
up  with  them,  particularly  our  sick  Indian,  whose  si«> 
fu£ition  was  very  embarrassing  to  us,  and  at  length 
they  contrived  to  escape.  I  very  much  wished  for 
these  men  to  have  accompanied  us  tp  the  village, 
in  order  to  do  away  aiiy  ill  impressions  which  might 
have  arisen  from  the  young  chief's  report  to  his  fa- 
ther which  we  were  naturally  led  to  expect  would 
aot  be  in  our,  favqr.  ,  - ,  ,,1,.^.^. 

This  road  conducted  us  through  the  finest  wood  of 

J  cedar  trees  that  I  had  ever  seen.     1  measured  sevem! 

:  i>f  them  that  were  twenty-four  feet  in  the  girth,  and 

.  of  a  proportionate  height.  The  alder  trees  are  also 
of  an  uncommon  size  ;  several  of  tiiem  were  seven 
feet  and  an  half  in  circumference,  and  rose  to  forty 

,  feet  without  a  branch  ;  but  my  men  declared  that 
they  had,  in  their  progress,  seen  much  larger  of  both 
kinds*  The  other  wood  was  hemlock,  white  birch, 
two  species  of  spruce  firs,  willows,  &c.  Many  of  the 
large  cedars  appeared  to  have  been  examined,  as  I 
suppose,  by  the  natives,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
canoes,  but  finding  them  hollow  at  heart,  they,  were 
aufferwl  io  stand.  There  was  but  little  underwood, 
and  the  soil  was  a  black,   rich  mould,   which   would 


Nortli'West  ContiiUnt  of  Americcf,        t%0 

well  reward  the  trouble  of  cultivation.  From  the  re- 
iTiains  of  bones  on  certain  spots,  it  is  probable  that  tJi« 
natives  may  have  burned  the  flead  in  this  wood. 

As  it  was  unccrtnin  what  our  ittception  might  be  at 
the  village,  I  examuied  every  man's  arms  and  ammu- 
nition, and  gave  Mr.  Mackay,  who  bad  unfortunately 
lost  his  gun,  one  cf  my  pibtols.  Our  late  conductors 
had  inforFhed'us  thai  tb'e  man  Wliom  we  le^ftin  a  dying 
state,  and  io  whom  I  had  a!dministere4  some  Ttir* 
lington's  balsarii,  was  dead  ;  and  it  wa^  by  no  me^nis 
improbable  that  ]j  might  |>e  suspected  of  hastening 
his  end.    '  ;'  ''     '  '''  '  '  '    '.-■■■■;■ 

At  oh€  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  bank  of  tke 
river,  which  was  opposite  to  the  village,  which  ajv 
T»eared  to  be  in  a  state  of  perfect  trariquilltty.  Several 
of  the  natives  were  fishine:  aboVie  asld  below  the  Weif, 
^na  th:ey  very  readily  took  us  ovei*  in  tbcvr  caftOes. 
The  people  ndwhiirriettdown  to  the  water-stdc,  but  I 
perceived  none  of  the  thief's  family  among  them. 
They  made  signs  for  me  to  ^  lo  his  house  ;  I  signified 
to  t,heia  not,to  cro  .vd  about  us,  and  indeed  drew  aiitte^ 
beyond  which  i  made  them  understjuul  tliey  must  not 
paas.  I  now  directed  Mr.  Mackay,  and  the  men  to 
)^maia  there,  with  their  at*ms  in  readiuess,  suid  to 
keep  the  naitives  at  a  distance,  as  1  was  determiiied  to 
go  alone  to  the  chief's  house ;  and  if  they  shoiflii  he^r 
the  report  of  my  pistols,  tliey  were  ordered  td  W*ke 
the  best  o^  their  way  from  these  pecrpie,  as  if  Would 
then  be  equally  fruitless  and  dangei^us  to  atteni^t  the 
giving  me  any  assistiuice,  as  it  would  be  only  in  the 
last  extremity,  and  when  I  was  cei'tain  of  their  in- 
tention  to  destroy  me,  that  I  should  discharge  i"hy 
pistols.  My  gun  1  gave  to  Mr.  Mackay^-  when, 
wixh  my  loaded  pistols  in  my  belt,  and  a  ^ioihiai^  in 
my  haiwl,  I  proceeded  to  the  abode  of  tlie  chitf. 
I  had  a  wood  to  pass  in  my  way  thither,  which  ^»s  in- 
tersected by  various  paths,  and  I  took  one  that  led  to 
the  back  instead  of  tlie  front  of  the  hduse  ;  and  as  the 
whole  had  been  very  much  altered  since  1  was  here 
before,  I- concluded  that  I  Ivad  lost  my  way.  But  I 
cpfttlnued  Lo  proceed,  and  soon  met  with  the  chief'* 


40d        .ymtrHal  of  a  Voyage  through  tffe 

wifejirho  informed  me/that  he  was  at  the  next  houne. 
On  my  going  found  it,  I  perceived  that  they  had 
tlirown  open  the  gabla  ends,  ahd  added  two  wings, 
nearly  as  long  as  the  body,  both  of  which  were  hung 
round  with  saimou  as  close  as  they  could  be  placed. 
As  1  could  discover  none  of  the  men,  I  sat  down  iip- 
x>n  a  large  stone  near  some  women,  who  were  sup- 
ping on  salmon  roes  and  berries.  They- invited- me  to 
pftrtake  oi  their  fare,  and  I  was  about  to  accept  of 
tlieirjnyitlationv  when  Mr.  Mackay  joined  me,  as 
both  himself  and  all  my  party  were  alarmed  at  my^be- 
ing  alone.  Nor  was  his  alarm  lessened  by  an  old 
man  whom  he  met  in  the  wood,  and  who  made  use 
of  signi  to  persuade  him  to  return.  As  he  came 
withaut  his  gun,  I  gave  him  one  of  my  pistols.  When 
.i  I  saw  the  women  continue  their  employment  without 
paying  the  least'  attention  tous^  I  could  not  imagine 
that  any  hoi^tile  design  was  preparing  against  us. 
Though  the  non-appearance  of  the  men  awakened 
%ome  degree  of  suspicion  that  I  should  not  be  receiv- 
ed with  the  same  welcome  as  on  my-  former  visiti 
At  length  the  chief  appeared,  and  his  son,  who  had 
been  bur  guide,  following  him  :  displeasure  was 
|>ainted  in  the  old  man's  countenance,  aiid  he  held  in 
his  hand  a  bead  tobacco  pouch  whidh  belonged  to 
Mr.  Mackay,  and  the  young  chief  hid  purloined 
fwm  him.  Vv^hen  he  had  approached  within  thre^ 
on  four  yards  of  me,  he  threw  it  at  me  with  gi-eatiii- 
dignation,  and  walked  away.  I  followed  him*  howl 
ever,  until  he  had  passed  his  son,  whom  I  took  by 
Viie  hand,  but  he  did  not  make  any  very  cordial  re- 
'  turn  to  my  salutation  :  at  the  same  time  he>  miwl^ 
signs  for  me  to  discharge  my  pistol,  and  give  him 
my  hanger,  which  Mr.  Mackay  had  brought  me,  but 
I  did  not  pay  the  least  attention  to  either  of  his  de- 
mands. 

.  We  noiv  joined  the  chief,  who  explained  to  me 
that  he  was  in  a  state  of  deep  distress  tor  the  loss  of 
his  son,  and  made  me  understand  that  he  had  cut  otf 
his  hair  and  blackened  his  face,  on  the  melancholy  06* 
casion.     He  also  represented  the  alarm  which  he  had 


m 


f* 


ithrih-WeiS  <hntifieMi  ef  dme^ca.        401 


te  next  hont;^; 
hat  they  had 
1  two  wiiigs, 
'M  were  hun^ 
d  be  placet!, 
sat  down  iip- 
lo  were    sup- 
invited-  me  to 
to  accept  of 
ined    me,  as 
led  at  my  bc- 
l  by  an   old 
ho  made  use 
Vs    he   cartie 
stols.  Wheri 
nent  without 
not  imagine 
against  us. 
n   awakened 
»ot  be  receiv- 
former  visit, 
ion,  who  had 
leasure    was 
d  he  held  in 
belonged  to 
d    purloined . 
within   tilled 
'ith  gi-eat  iii-* 
d  hiruy  howl 
M  I  took   bjr 
r  cordial  re- 
>e  he»  mad^ 
id  give   him 
ight  me,  but 
■rof  his'de- 

ained  to  me 
r  the  loss  of 
;  had  cut  off 
^lancholy  oca 
hich  he  had 


'flnffered  respecting  his  son  who  bcul  accompAhled  u» ; 
Att  he  apprekended  vrs  <had  kiHed  him,  or  had  all  «f 
us  perisiwd  iogcclh«r«  When  he  had  finished  his  naf- 
itUiTC)  I  took  himt  ftod  his  eon  by  their  huads,  and 
requested  tlttm  to  come  with  me  to  the  pUee  wherfe 
I  had  left  my  people »  wha  weite  rejoiced  to  see-  ub  ne- 
txim,  karipg  been  lA  a  state  of  .great  anxiety  (roki 
our  long v«)^enci^i  I  immediately  'remunerated  thei 
young  ehief  iior  iiis  ooitipany  arvd  assietatice  ity  <Mn: 
voyage  t)»  the  sea,  as  weU  us  bis  father*  ibr  his  f^- 
mer  attentions^  J  gav^  them  cAoth  and  knives,  «ftd, 
Indeed)  a  portion  of  e)i«ry  thing  which  now  remauK^ 
4o  us*  The  presents  bad  the^  desired  effect  of  r^t<i^ 
ring  us /to  their  f  avor  ;  but  these  people  arfe  of  to 
changeaUe  a  nature,  that  tiiere  is  b4  security  with 
theflft*  I  procured  thr«e  routes  and  xmo  otter-skitiS) 
and  if  I  oomid  have  given  s\  ^h  articles  in  exchange  as 
they  preferrsdytl  should  probably  1iai««  obtained 
more.  I  n«w  represented  the  length  of  the  way 
which  I  had  toogo,  .and  requested  some  ft«h  to  tmf'" 
port  us  on  <mr  journey,  when  he  desiMd  ut  to  fdUbW 
him  tothe  house,  where  mats  were  immediately  af* 
ranged  and  a  fish  placed  before  each  of  us. 

We  were  now  informed  ^  that  our  dog,  whom  wfe 
had  lost,  had  been  howling  abcmt  the  village  ev^ 
since  we  left  it,  atid  that  they  had  reaioii  to  foelf^ve  M 
left '  the  woods  at  night  to  eat  the  fish  he  could  -find 
about  the  hwlses.  I  immediately  dispatched  MH 
Mackay,  and  a  man,  in  search  bf  the  anitnal^  b^t 
they  returned  without  him.  .    .  ^.^ 

When  I  manifested  my  intention  to^pttic^^  ^ti  tl*^ 
journey^  the  chief  voluntarily  sent  foi'  ten  roasted  sali 
mon,  and  having  attended  us  with  his  sony  and  tt 
great  number  of  Ms  people,  to^the  last  house  ih  thtl^ 
village,  we  took  our  leave.  It  was  then  half  past 
three  in  the  afternoon .  -  ' » 

I  directed  Mr.  Mackay  to  >take  th%  lead^  an^'^he 
others  to  follow  him  in  Indian  -files,  at  a  long  aiidf 
•teadypace,  as  1  determined  to  bimg  up  the  rear.  I 
adopted  this  measure  from  a  confusion  that  was  ob- 
wyaWo  am^ng  the  natives  which  I  did  not  comprii . 


402  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

•liend.  I  was  not  without  my  suspicions  that  some 
mischief  was  in  agitation,  and  they  were  increased 
from  the  confused  noise  we  heard  in  the  village.  At 
the  same  time  a  considerable  number  came  running 
after  us ;  some  of  them  making  signs  for  us  to  stop, 
and  others  rushing  by  me.  I  perceived  also,  that 
those  who  followed  us  were  the  strangers  who  live 
among  these  people,  and  are  kept  by  them  in  a  state 
pf  awe  and  subjection  ;  and  one  of  them  made  signs 
to  me  that  we  were  taking  a  wrong  road.  I  immedi- 
ately called  out  to  Mr.  Mackay  to  stop.  This  was 
naturally  enough  taken  for  an  alarm,  and  threw  my 
people  into  great  disorder.  When,  however,  I  was 
unders»tood,  and  we  had  mustered  again,  our  Indian 
informed  us,  that  the  no'se  we  heard  was  occasioned 
by  a  debate  among  the  natives,  whether  they  should 
stop  us  or  not.  When,  thereforei  we  had  got  into 
the  right  road,  I  made  such  arrangements. as  might 
lie  necessary  for  our  defence,  if  we  should  have  an 
experimental  proof  that  our  late  and  fickle  friends 
were  converted  into  enemies. 

Cur  way  was  through  a  forest  of  stately  cedars*  he- 

neatlia  range  of  lofty  hills,  covered  with  rocks,  and 

without  any  view  of  the  river.    The  path  was  well 

beaten,  but  rendered  incommodious    by  the   large 

•  stones  which  lay  along  it. 

As  we  were  continuing  our  route^  we  all  felt  the 
ilj^^nsation  of  having  found  a  lost  friend  at  the  sight  of 
\r  dog  ;  but  he  appeared,  in  a  great  degree^  to  have 
lost  his  former  sagacity.  He  ran  in  a  wild  wuy  back- 
wards and  forwards  ;  and  though  he  kept  out  road,  I 
could  not  induce  him  to  acknowledge  his  master. 
.=,Sometimes  he  seemed  disposed  to  approach  as  if  he 
knew  us  :  and  then,  on  a  sudden,  he  would  turn  away, 
iip  if  alarmed  at  our  appearance.  The  poor  animal 
Avas  reduced  almost  to  a  skeleton,  and  we  occasionally 
dropped  something  to  support  him,  and  by  degrees  he 
recovered  his  former  sagacity. 

When  the  night  came  on  we  stopped  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  tl»e    river,  but  did  not  venture  tof  make  a 
^re,  Every  man  took  his  tree,  and  laid  doffn  in  bis 


-  ^  Nbrtft-West  Continent  of  America^        ,>403 


some 
creased 
e.     At 
unning 
to  stop, 
ISO,  that 
ho  live 
a  state 
e  signs 
mmedi- 
lis  was 
ew  my 
I   was 
Indian 
asioned 
should 
got  into 
i  might 
lave  an 
friends 

iarsy  be- 
ks,  and 
as  well 
i   large 

■elt  the 
iight  of 
to  have 
y  back- 
road,  I 
maiiter. 
as  if  he 
1  awajr, 
animal 
iionalLy 
rees  he 

tall  dis- 
uake  jn 
i  in  bis 


f  clathes,  and  with  his  arms,  beneath  the  shade  of  itn 
.Ranches.    .We  had  removed  to  a  short  distance,  from 
the  path  ;  no  centinel  was  now  appointed,  and  every 
one  was  left  to  watch  for  his  own  safety. 

Friday  26.    After  a  very  restless,  though  undis' 
turbed  night,  we  set  forward  as  soon  as  day  appeared, 
and  walked  on  with  all  possible  expedition,  till  we  got 
to  the  upper,  which  we  now  called  friendly  .Village, 
and  was  the  first  we  visited  on  our  outward  jouripey.. 
It  was  eight  in  the  morning  of  a  very  ^vifi  day  iwfhen 
we  arrived,  and   found  a  very  material  alteratiph  in 
the  place  since  we  left  it.  Five  additional  houses- had 
been  erected   and  were  filled   with  salmion  :Vth^  m- 
crease  of  inhabitants  was  in  the  same  proportion.  We 
were  received  with   great  kindness,  and  a  mesenger 
was  dispatched  to  inform  the  chief,  whose  name  was 
Soocomlick)  and  who  was  then  at  his  fishnig-weir,  of 
our  arrival.    He  immediately  returned  ta  the  yillage 
to  confirm  the  cordial  reception  of  h|s  people  j  and 
having  conducted  us  to  his  bouse,  entertained  usj  with 
the  most  respectful  hospitality.   In  short,  he  behaved 
to  us  with  so  much  attention  and.  kindness,,  that  I  did 
not  withhold  any  thing  in.  my  power  to  give,  which 
might  afford  him  satisfaction.    I  presented  him  with 
two  yards  of  blue  cloth,  an  axe,  knives,  aiid  various 
other  articles,    tte  gave  me   in  return  a  jargci  she.]! 
which  resembled  the  under  shell  of  a  Guernsey  oyster, 
but  somewhat  larger.     Where  they  ^procure  them  I 
^^)uldQot  discover,  but  they  cut  and  polish  th^m  for 
bracelets,  ear-rlngSi  and  other  personal  driisiiiients. 
^]|Uii>  regrjetti^d  that  he  had  ho  sea-otter  skins  to  give 
,ipfie,  but  engaged  to  provide  abundance  of  tjifein  when- 
ever either  my  friends  or  myse|f shQuld  return  by  sea  ; 
an  expectation  which  I  thought  it  right  to  eiicourage 
among   these  people.    Pe  also  earnestly  requested 
jme   to  bring  him  a  gun  and  amm^utiition. '  l;raight 
have  procured  many  ciu'ious  articles  At  this  place,,  but 
was  prevented  by  the  consideration  that  we  must 
have  carried  them  on  our  backs  upwardaiof  three  lituu- 
dred  miles  through  a  mountainous  c0>untry.    The 


4lH         ynrmft/  tfa  roi^tg^  throu^  tAe 


,   ytiutig  chfieft  to  hit  other  acts  ofkindneM,  added  dt 
Urge  a  supply  offish  as  we  chose  to  take. 

Our  viut  did  not  occasion  any  particular  interrup- 
tion of  the  ordinai^  occupation  of  the  people  i  espeoi* 
tiWy  of  the  Women,   who  were  employed  in  boiling^ 
Worrell  and  dii^rent  ki4ids   of  berrieS}  W4tfa   BalitioA- 
roeBf  in   large   tiquare  kettles  of  cedar  wood.     This 
pottagti,  when  it  attained  a  certain  consi&teney)  they 
took  out  with  IftdleS)  ami  poured  ft  into  frames  of 
about  twelve  inches  s(}uare  and  on6  deep,  the  bottom 
■being  covered  With  a  large  leaf,  whioh  were  then  ex- 
posed t^  the  sun  till  their  contents  became  so   many 
dried  cakes.     Tho  roes  that  arejni&ed   up  with  the 
bitter  berries,  t|,i?e  prepared  in  the  same  way.    From 
the  quantity  of  this  kind  of  provision,  it  must  be   a 
^incipal  article  of  food,   and   probubly   of  traffic. 
Thieve   people  haVe  also  pot'table  che^s  of  cedar,  in 
which  they  pack  them,  as  well  as  thtir  salmon,' both 
dried  and  roa^t^d.    It  appeared  to  lue,  that  they  ett 
tioBesh,  except  such  as  the  sea  may  afford  them)  as 
that  of  the  sea-otter  and  the  $eal.    The  GKAy  instance 
We  observed  to  the  conti-ary,  was  in  the  young  Indian 
who  accoihpanied   Us  ambng  the  islands,   and  Itai} 
'been  already  mentioned  as  feasting ^n  the  fie sh  of  n: 
porcupinie  ;  whether  tiiis  be  theit*  custo;m  tiirough- 
out  the  y*ar>  or  only  during  the  seauon  of  thti  ;salmon, 
iishbery:;  or,  whedier  there  were  any  oastis  of  ttvem,,as 
in  India,  I  cannot  pretend  to  determine*    It  is  cert^^iiit 
however,  that  they  are  not  hunters,  and  I  h^ve  alrea- 
dy mentioned  tlie  abhorrence  they  expressed  at  some 
Yenison  which  we  brought  to  their  village^    During; 
our  former  visit  to  these  people,  they  requested  us 
not  to  discharge  our  fire-arms,  lest  the  ^re port  should 
frighten  awa^  the  salmon,  but  now  they  depressed  bl 
Wish  that  I  should  explain  the  use  and  management  of 
them.    Though  their  demeanor  to  us  was  of  the  most 
friendly  nature,  and  they  appeared  without  any  arms, 
except  a  few  mHKo  tkoeidentsdly  had  their d^lg-gers,  1  did 
not  think  it  altogether  prudent  to  discharge  our  pieces  j 
I  therefore  fii'edeneef  my  pistols  at  a  tree  tm/s^^l  fer 
the  purpose^  when  I  put  four  out  of  five  buck  shotp^ 


with  wh 
treme  a 
Thes( 
well-set 
natives 
with  hi  J 
the  oliv 
with  a  ti 
hair  is  < 
wear  it 
loose  o\ 
in  knot? 
and  bee 
impervi 
bodkin 
which  1 
of  the i 
their  h 
led  leg 
posturi 
chiefly 
ning,  > 
childrc 
Their 
•,    consist 
length 
is  plac 
to  car 
over  o 
the  ot 
be  res 
Tishw 
board 
of  a  > 
robe, 
girdl 
tion  ' 
.cape 
the  r 
culai 
adm 


eH  s» 


J^fth-West  Continent  of  Americiu        404f 

with  which  it  was  loaded,  into  th|  circle,  to*  their  ex- 
treme astonishment  and  admiration. 

These  people  were  in  general  of  the  middle  stature, 
well-set,  and  better  clothed  with  flesh  than  any  of  the 
natives  of  the  interior  country.  Their  faces  are  round, 
with  high  cheek  bones,  and  their  complexion  between 
the  olive  and  the  copper.  They  have  small  grey  eye» 
with  a  tinge  of  red;  they  have  wedge  heads,  and  their 
hair  is  of  a  dark  brown  color,  inclining  to  black.  Some 
wear  it  long,  keep  it  well  combe  1,  and  let  it  hang 
loose  over  their  shoulders,  while  they  divide  and  tie  it 
in  knots  over  the  temples.  Others  arrange  its  plaits, 
and  bedawb  it  with  brown  earth,  so  as  to  render  it 
impervious  to  the  comb  ;  they,  therefore,  carry  a 
bodkin  about  them  to  ease  the  frequent  irritation, 
which  may  be  supposed  to  proceed  from  such  a  state 
of  the  head.  The  women  are  inclined  to  be  fat,  wear 
their  hair  short,  and  appear  to  be  very  subject  to  swelr 
led  legs,  a  malady  that,  probably,  proceeds  from  the 
posture  in  which  they  are  always  sitting  :  as  they  are 
chiefly  employed  in  the  domestic  engagements  of  spin- 
ning,  weavin;^,  preparing  the  fish,  and  nursing  their 
children,  which  did  not  appear  to  be  numerous. 
Their  cradle  differed  from  any  that  I  had  seen  ;  it 
consisted  of  a  frame  fixed  round  a  board  of  suincient 
length,  in  which  the  child,  after  it  has  been  swathed, 
is  placed  on  a  bed  of  moss,  and  a  conductor  contrived 
to  carry  off  the  urinary  discharge.  They  are  slung 
over  one  shoulder  by  means  of  a  cord  fastened  under 
the  other,  so  that  the  infant  is  always  in  a  position  to 
be  readily  applied  to  the  breast,  when  it  requires  nou« 
rishment.  I  saw  several  whose  heads  were  inclosed  in 
boards  covered  with  leather,  till  they  attain  the  form 
of  a  wedge.  The  women  wear  no  clothing  but  the 
robe,  either  loose  or  tied  round  the  middle  with  a 
girdle,  as  the  occasion  may  require,  with  the  addi- 
tioii  of  a  fringed  apron,  already  mentioned,  and  a 
.cape,  in  the  form  of  an  inverted  bowl  or  dish.  To 
the  robe  and  cap,  the  men  add,  when  it  rains,  a  cir- 
cular mat  with  an  opening  in  the  middle  ^uflicient  to 
admit  the  head)  which,  cxtendihg  over  the  shoulderss 


406  yournal  of  a  Vayiagt  through  the 

throws  off  the  wet.  They  also  occasionally  wear 
shoes  of  dressed  moose-akinf  for  which  they  are  in« 
deUedto  their  neighbors.  Those  parts,  which,  among 
all  civilised  natioris,  are  covered  from  familiar  View, 
are  here  oinenly  exposed. 

They  are  altogether  dependent  on  thcaea  and  river* 
for  their  sustenance,  so  that  they  may  be  considered  a» 
«  stationary  people  ;  hjtncQ  it  is  tha*:  the  men  engage 
in  those  toilsome  employments,  whidi  Uie  tribes  who 
support  themselves  by  the  chase,  leave  entirely  to  the 
women.  Pt)Iygamy  is  permitted  among  them,  though^ 
according  to  it^y  observatioD,  most  of  the  men  were 
satisfied  with  one  wife,  With  whon^  however,  chastity- 
ifl  not  considered  as  a  necessary  virtue*  I  saw  but 
iXBc  woman  whose  under-lip  was  &pllt  and  disfigured 
with  an  appendant  arnameni.  l^he  men  frequent! jr 
fafttjie,  and  tlie  boys  ai^e  continually  in  -the  waters 
Thefy  hsiYS  nets  and  lines  of  various  kinds  and  ,  bizes> 
wlkidi  are  made  of^^dar  ^ark,  and  would  not  l>e 
known  ii'om  those  made  af  hen»p»  Their  hooks  con-; 
sfstof  two  pieces  pf  wtxkd  or  hone,  formjing  when  fixi» 
cd  together,  an  obtuse  angle. 

Their  spears,  or  darts^  are  from  four  to  sixteen 
feet  in  length ;  the  barb,  or  point,  being  fiK^ed  in  a 
socjcet,  when  ^e  animal  is  struck,  slips  from  it  : 
lims  the  barbbeiag  fa&tened  by  a  string  to  the  hai>dle, 
remains  iii  a  bntoy  ;  or  enables  the  aquatic  hunter  to 
tlr^  and  tkke  his  prey.  They  are  employed  against 
sea^dtters,  seals,  and  large  fish. 

Tlieir  hatx:liets  are  made  principally  of  about  four- 
teen igichesof  bar-iron,  ixed  into  awoQdeuhandle,as  i 
liAve  already  described  them  ;  though  tiiey  have  some 
of  bfltee  oi*  horn ;  with  these,  a  mallet  and  woodea 
wedge,  they  hew  their  timbers  and  form  their  planks., 
Thej^  tnust  also  have  otIi£r  tools  wltii  which  tijcy 
coinpletie  tind  polish  their  work,  but  my  stay  was  sq 
shortt'lny  anxiety  so  great,  and  my  situation  soci-itir* 
ctl)  liiat  many  tircumstances  may  be  suppose^  ;0r 
have  eataped  me. 

Their  canoes  a^e  made  out  of  the  cedar  tFee«  «hmI 
9M\  ciMFPy  from  eigl^t  to  fifty  persons. 


,  Their 
judge,  tl 
bows  an 
are  such 
a  slight( 
and  an 
«edar; 
uiy  tool 
cd  it  it 
a  very, 
great  foi 
are  abot 
daggers 
and  An 
Theii 
and  di^ 
of  wata 
several  i 
visions, 
wat^r. 
split  an 
adapted 
Thei 
Ihe  arm 
Thej 
by  cutt 
Thougl 
burned 
xnemoi 
Uors  ai 
and  pr 
Fvo\ 
quantil 
inovea 
to  gua 
the  ap 
it  is  ci 
the  su 
bly  lai 
bly  in 
*ea-cc 


Kisrth'WiH  Contm^t  tf  Amerhiu        407 

i  ■ 

leir  wftrlfke  weaponfl)  vrHich^  m  f»r  a§  I  could 
judgC)  they  ver^  seldom  have  occasion  ta  employ t  are 
bowa  and  arrows,  spear»,  and  daggers.  The  aiTows 
are  ftuch  as  have  been  already  described}  but  ralher  of 
a  slighter  make.  The  bo\f  s  are  ndt  more  than  two  feet 
and  an  half  in  length- ^  they  are  formod  of  a  slip  of  red 
cedar;  the  grain  being  on  oDe  side  untouched  with 
any  tool,  while  the  other  is  seouredmth  sinews  attach* 
cd  it  it  by  a  kind  of  glue*  Though  this  weapon  haft 
a  very,  slender  appearance^  it  throws  an  arrow  with 
great  force,  and  to  a  considerable  distance.  Their  tpearft 
are  about  ten  feet  k)ng,aiid  pointed  with  iron.  Their 
daggers  are  of  various  kindS)  being  of  Urittfih,  Spanish) 
and  American  ntanufacturea. 

Their  household  furniture  consists  of  boxes,  troughsr, 
and  di^'ed  formed  of  wood,  with  different  vesselfl  made 
of  wfttape.  These  are  employed,  according  to  theiir 
several  applications,  to  contain  their  valuables  and  pro* 
visions,  as-  well  a»  for  culinary  pnrposesv  and  to  carry 
w£U;^r'  The  women  meike  use  of  musGle^shells  to 
split  and  dean  their  ftsh^  and  which  are  very  well 
adapted  tO'  that  purpose. 

Their  olrnament^  are  necklaces,  collars,  bracelets  fo» 
Ihe  arms,  wrists,  and  legs,  with  ear-rings.  Sec* 

They  burn  their  dead,  aind  display  their  mournings 
by  cutting  their  hair  short,  and  blackening  their  faces* 
Though  I  saw  several  places  where  bodies  had  been 
burned,  I  was  surprised  at  not  seeing  any  tomb  or 
memorial  of  the  dead,  purticularly  when  their  neigh- 
bors are  so  supcrstitiousily  attentive  to  the  erection 
and  preservUtion  of  them. 

Fi*om  the  number  of  their  canoes,  aS  well  a*  the 
quantity  of  their  chests  and  boxes,  to  contain  their 
moveables,  as  well  as  the  insufficiency  of  their  houses^ 
to  guard  against  the  rigors  of  a  severe  winter,  and 
the  appearance  of  the  ground  around  their  habitations^ 
it  is  evident  that  these  people  reside  here  only  during 
the  SLummer  or  salmon  season,  which  does  not  probar 
bly  last  moi^  than  three  months.  It  may  .be  reasona- 
bly inferred,  therefore,  that  they  have  villages  on  the 
*3a-coast|  which  they  inhabit  during  the  rest  of  the 


40f         Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

<  uuii 
year.  There  it  may  be  supposed  they  leave  the  sicly 
and  infirm,  and  the  aged ;  and  thither  they  may  bear 
the  ashes  of  those  who  die  at  the  place  of  their  sum- 
mer residence. 

Of  their  religion  I  can  say  but  little,  as  my  means 
©f  observation  were  very  contracted.  I  could  disco- 
ver, however,  that  they  believed  in  a  good  and  an  evil 
spirit :  and  that  they  have  some  forms  of  worship  to 
conciliate  the  protection  of  one,  and  perhaps  to  avert 
the  enmity  of  the  other,  is  apparent  from  the  temples 
which  I  have  described;  and  where,  at  stated  periods, 
it  may  be  presumed  they  hold  the  feasts,  and  perform 
the  sacrifices,  which  their  religion,  whatever  it  may 
be,  has  instituted  as  the  ceremonials  of  their  public 
t  worship. 

From  the  very  little  I  could  discover  of  their  go- 
vernment, it  is  altogether  different  from  any  political 
regulation  which  had  been  remarked  by  me  among 
the  savage  tribes.  It  is  on  this  river  alone  that  one 
mat)  appears  to  have  an  exclusive  and  hereditary  right 
to  what  was  necessary  to  the  existence  of  those  who 
are  associated  sNith  him.  I  allude  to  the  salmon  weir, 
or  iishing'-place,  the  sole  right  tov/hich  confers  on  the 
chief  an  arbitrary  power.  Those  embankments 
could  not  have  been  formed  without  a  very  great  and 
associated  labor  ;  and,  as  might  be  supposed,  on  the 
condition  that  those  who  assisted  in  constructing  it 
should  enjoy  a  participating  right  in  the  advantages 
to  he  derived  from  it.  Nevertheless,  it  evidently  ap- 
peared to  me,  that  the  chief's  power  over  it,  and  the 
people,  was  unlimited,  and  without  control.  No  one 
could  iish  without  his  permission,  or  carry  home  a 
larger  portion  of  what  he  had  caught,  than  was  set 
apart  for  him.  No  one  could  build  an  house  without 
his  consent ;  and  all  his  commands  appeared  to  befol- 
Iciwed  with  implicit  obedience.  The  people  at  large 
seemed  to  b;;  on  a  perfect  equality,  while  the  strangers 
among  them  were  obliged  to  obey  the  commands  of  the 
natives  in  general  or  quit  the  village.  They  appear  to 
be  of  a  friendly  disposition,  but  they  are  subject  to  sud- 
ilen  gusts  of  passion,  which  are  as  quickly  composed  ; 


North'West  Continent  of  America. 


409 


ages 


and  the  transition  is  instantsuieous,  from  violent  irrita- 
tion to  the  most  tranquil  demeanor.  Of  ihe  many  tribe« 
of  savage  people  whom  1  have  seen,  these  appear  to  be 
the  most  susceptible  of  civilization.  They  might  soon 
be  brought  to  culti  Ht«  the  little  ground  about  them 
w^hich  is  capable  oi  it.  There  is  a  narrow  border  of 
a  rich)  black  soil)  on  «tther,side  of  the  riveri  over  a 
bed  of  gravel,  which  would  yield  any  grain  or  fruit, 
that  are  common  to  similar  lalitudeo  in  Europe. 

The  very  few  words  which  1  collected  of  their  lan- 
guage, are  as  follow  ;— 

Zimilk,  Salmon. 

Diiir,  A  itth  of  the  jize  6f  a  ial»oii,  irlfti  canine  tee*. 

K'etiji,  ^    Ai^axe. 

.■/    Ckmgui,  ■  '  ■  '-'Eyefc  ■  ■  ■  •' 
Itzai,  Teeth. 

Ma-acza,  Noie.  ,. 

Walts,  Pog.  ilU)  1>ri/',< 

Zla-achle,  lluuse. 

Ziniinez,     ;     t  C  BaYkviliat  fobe. 

Couiuun,       .      Beaver  or  otter  ditto. 

Dichts,  Stone. 

Jfeacii,  Fire.  * 

tJlkan,  Water. 

Cits  cem,  A  van. 

Shigeimia,  Thread. 

TSlI-Kewan,  Chest  or  box. 

I'hiogatt,  Cedar  l^rk. 

Achtmoul,  Beads  got  upon  their  coast. 

Il-caiette,  A  twnnet. 

Couny,  A  clam-shell. 

NodUkltT.  A  dish  composed  of  berries  and  sahboR  toes. 

Caiffre,  What  ? 


i»«« 


Hoa 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Leave  the  Friendly,  Village.  Attentions  of  the  natives  at  our  departure.  Stop  t» 
divide  our  provisions.  Begin  to  ascend  the  mountiins.  Circumstance,  of  the 
ascent.  Journev  continued.  Arrive  at  the  place  from  wlicnce  we  set  out  b^ 
land.  Meet  vviiti  Indians  there.  Find  the  canoe,  and  all  the  other  articles  iii 
a  state  of  perfect  security  and  preservation.  Means  employed  to  compel  the 
restoration  of  articles  which  were  afterwards  stolen.  Proceed  on  our  liome- 
ward -bound  voyao;e.  Some  account  of  the  natives  on  the  river.  Tlie  canoe  ia 
run  on  a  rock,  &c.  Circumstances  of  the  voyage.  Enicr  the  Peace  River. 
Statement  of  courses.  Continue  our  route.  Circumstances  of  It.  Proceed 
onwards  in  a  small  canue,  with  an  Indian,  to  the  lower  fort,  leaving  th* 
rest  of  the  people  to  follow  me.  Arrive  at  Foit  Chepewyan.  The  voyiige 
concluded. 

1793!]  At  eleven,  in  the  morning  wc  left  this  place, 
which  I  called  Friendly  Village,  accompanied  by  every 
man  belonging  to  it,  who  attended  us  about  {(.mile, 

Mm 


410  Journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

when  \re  took  a  cordial  leavu  of  them  ;  and  if  we  might 
judge  from  appearances)  they  paitcd  from  us  with 
regret. 

In  a  short  time  we  halted,  to  make  a  division  of  our 
fish)  and  each  man  had  about  twenty  pounds  weight 
of  it)  except  Mr.  Mackay  and  myself,  who  were  con- 
tent with  shorter  allowance,  that  we  might  have  less 
weight  to  carry.  We  had  also  a  liltle  Hour,  and  some 
pemmican.  Having  completed  this  arrangement  with 
all  possible  expedition,  we  proceeded  onwards,  the 
ground  rising  gradttally,  as  w.e  continued  our  route. 
When  we  were  clear  of  the  wood,  we  saw  the  i^oun- 
tain  towering  above,  and  apparently  of  impracticable 
ascent.  We  soon  came  to  the  fork  of  the  river,  which 
i  was  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice,  where,  tlv;  ford  was 
three  feet  deep,  and  very  rapid.  Quf  yo\ng  Indiaja, 
though  much  recovered,  was  still  too  vuk,  to  cross 
the  water)  and  with  some  difficulty  I  oarricdhim  over 
on  my  back.  :,,'-jq  ,i,,.,^  i,  ,,     •,,;,,,. 

It  was  now  one  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  had  to  a&cend 
the  summit  of  the  first  mountain  before  night  came 
on,  in  order  to  look  for  water.  I  left  the  sick  Indian, 
with  his  companion  and  one  of  my  meU)  to  follow  us» 
as  his  strength  would  permit  him.  The  fatigue  of  as- 
cending these  precipices  I  shall  not  attempt  to  de- 
scribe) and  it  was  past  five  when  we  arrived  at  a 
spot  where  we  could  get  water)  and  in  such  an  extre- 
mity of  weariness,  that  it  was  wiih  great  pain  any  of 
'US  could  crawl  about  to  fijather  wood  for  the  necessary 
purpose  of  making  a  fire.  To  relieve  our  anxiety, 
which  began  to  increase  every  moment,  for  the  situa- 
tion of  the  Indian,  about  seven  he  and  his  companions 
arrived ;  when  we  uonsoled  ourselves  by  sitting  round 
a  blading  fire,  talking  of  past  dangers,  and  indulging 
the  delightful  reflection  that  we  were  thus  far  ad- 
vanced on  our  homeward  journey.  Nor  was  it  possi- 
ble to  be  in  this  situation  without  contemplating  the 
wonders  of  it.  Such  was  the  depth  of  the  precipices 
below,  and  the  height  of  the  mountains  above,  with 
the  rude  and  wild  magnt&cence  of  the  scenery  around, 
that  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  such  an  astonishing 


North4Vest  Continent  of  America,  411 


s  might 
us  wiili 

>n  of  our 

weight 

re  cou- 

uvc  leus 

ncl  some 

entwith 

irdS)  the 

route. 

t  moun- 

cticable 

r,  which 

brd  was 

Indian, 

to  cross 

lim  over 

0  ascend 
It  came 
c Indian, 
lUow  us, 
le  of  as- 
>i  to  de- 
lved at  a 
n  extre- 
n  any  of 
ecessary 
anxiety, 
tie  situa- 
ipanions 
ig  round 
idulging 
i  far  ad- 
it possi- 
iting"  the 
'ecipices 
kve,  Mith 
'  around, 
onishing 


and  awful  combination  of  objects;  of  which,  indeed, 
no  description  can  convey  nn  adequate  id«a.  Even  at 
this  place,  which  ii  only,  as  it  were,  the  first  step  to- 
wardsgaining  the  summit  of  the  mountains,  the  climate 
was  very  sensibly  changed.  The  air  that  fanned  the 
village  which  we  left  at  noon,  was  mild  and  cheering  ; 
the  grass  was  verdant,  and  the  wild  frultf  ripe  around 
it.  But  here  the  snow  was  not  yet  dissolved,  the  ground 
was  still  bound  by  the  frost,  the  heritage  had  scarce 
begun  to  spring,  and  the  ctowberry  bushes  were  just 
beginning  to  blossom.  • 

Saturday  27,  So  great  was  our  fatigue  of  yester- 
day, that  it  was  late  before  we  proceeded  to  return 
over  the  mountains,  bv  the  same  route  which  we  had 
followed  in  our  outward  journey.  There  was  little  or 
no  change  in  the  appearance  of  the  mountains  since 
we  passed  them,  though  the  weather  was  very  fine. 
*«"  Sunday  28.  At  nine  this  morning  we  arrived  at  the 
spot,  where  we  slept' with  the  natives  on  the  1 6th  in- 
stant, and  found  our  pemmican  in  good  condition 
where  we  had  buried  it. 

The  latitude  of  this  place,  by  observation,  when  I 
passed,  I  found  to  l>e  52.  46.  32.  I  now  took  "time, 
and  the  distance  between  sun  and  moon.  1  had  also 
un  azimuth,  to  ascertain  the  variation. 
-  We  continued  our  route  with  fine  weather,  and  with- 
otH  meeting  a  single  person  on  our  way,  the  natives 
being  all  gone,  as  we  supposed,  to  the  Great  River. 
We  recovered  all  our  hidden  stores  of  provisions,  and 
arrived  about  two  in  the  afternoon  of  Sunday,  August 
the  4th  at  the  place  which  we  had  left  a  month  before. 

A  considerable  number  of  Indians  were  encamped 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  small  river,  and  in  conse- 
quence of  the  weather,  confined  to  their  lodgea  :  as 
they  must  have  heard  of,  if  not  seen,  us,  and  our  arms 
being  out  of  order  from  the  rain,  I  was  not  satisfied 
with  our  situation  ;  but  did  not  wish  to  create  an  alarm« 
We,  therefore,  kept  in  the  edge  of  the  wood,  and  cal- 
led to  them,  when  theyturnecf  out  like  so  many  furies,, 
with  their  arms  in  their  hands,  and  threatenmg  de-» 
^truction  if 'we  dared  to  approach  their  ha^itatioi^ 


412  y'oufkal  of  a  Voyage  through  th^ 

We  remained  in  our  station  till  their  passion  and  ayv 
prehensions  had  subsided,  when  our  interpreter  i^avc 
them  the  necessary  information  respecting  us.  They 
proved  to  be  strangers  to  us,  but  were  the  relations  of 
those  whorn  we  had  already  seen  here,  and  who,  as 
they  told  us,  were  upon  an  island  at  some  distance  up 
the  river.  A^messenger  was  accordingly  sent  to  in- 
form them  of  our  arrival. 

Mondaij  5.  On  examining  the  canoe,  and  our  pro- 
perty, which  we  hadleft  behind,  we  found  it  in  perfiect 
safety  ;  nor  was  there  the  print  of  afoot  near  the  ^pot. 
We  now  pitched  our  tent,  and  made  a  blazing  fire  and 
I  treated  myself,  as  well  as  tlie  people,  with  a  dramj 
but  we  had  bee  so  long  without  tasting  any  spiriiuous 
liquor,  that  we  had  lost  a  relish  for  it.  The  Indians  now 
arrived  from  above,  and  were  rewa,t'ded  for  the  care 
they  had  taken  of  our  property  with  such  articles  a,« 
were  acceptable  to  them,   .j.  .,ij.;,;:  ^,f|  j„  «  =w  • 

At  nine  this  morning  I  sent  nve  men  in  the  canoe 
for  the  various  articles  we  had  left  below,  and  they  soon 
returned  with  them,  and  except  some  bale  goods, 
which  had  got  wet,  they  were  in  good  order,  particu- 
larly the  provisions,  of  which  we  were  now  in  great 

«eed.  .  ^.  i0?3t3di 

Many  of  the  natives  arrived  both  from  the  upper 
and  lower  part^  of  the  river,  each  of  whom  was  dres- 
sed in  a  beaver  robe.  I  purchased  fifteen  of  them; 
{ind  they  preferred  large  knives  in  exchange.  It  is  an 
extraordinary  circumstance  that  these  people,  who 
might  have  taken  all  the  property  we  leA  behind  us, 
without  the  least  fear  of  detection,  should  leave  that 
untouched,  and  purloin  any  of  our  utensils,  which  our 
confidence  in  their  honesty  gave  them  a  ready  oppor- 
tunity of  taking.  In  fact,  several  ::r<^icles  were  mis- 
sing, and  as  I  was  very  anxious  to  avoid  a  quarrel 
with  the  natives,  in  this  st^ge  of  our  journey,  I  told 
those  who  remained  near  us,  without  any  appearance 
of  anger,  that  their  relations  who  were  gone,  had  no 
idea  of  the  mischief  that  would  result  to  them  from 
taking  our  property.  I  gravely  added,  that  the:  sal- 
mon,  which  was  not  only  their  favorite  food,  t>ut  ab- 


North-West  Continent  of  Americtt,        4f  J 

solutely  necessary  to  their  existence,  came  from  the 
sea  which  belonged  to  us  white  men ;  and  that  as,  at 
the  entrance  of  the  river,  we  could  prevent  those  fish 
from  coming  up  it,  we  possessed  the  power  to  starve 
them  and  their  children.  To  avert  our  anger,  there- 
fore, they  must  return  all  the  articles  that  had  been 
stolen  from  us.  This  finesse  succeeded.  Messengers^ 
were  dispatched  to  order  the  restoration  of  every  thing 
that  had  been  taken.  We  purchased  several  large  sal- 
mon of  them,  and  enjoyed  the  delicious  meal  whicU 
they  afforded. 

At  noon  this  day,  which  I  allotted  for  repose>  I  got 
a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave  53.  24.  10.  I  also 
took  time.  The  weather  had  been  cloudy  at  inter- 
vals. 

Tuesday  6.  Every  necessary  preparation  had  been 
made  yesterday  for  us  to  continue  our  route  to-day  ; 
but  before  our  departure,  some  of  the  natives  arrived 
with  part  of  the  stolen  articles  ;  the  rest,  they  said, 
had  been  taken  by  people  down  the  river,  who  would 
be  here  in  the  course  of  the  morning,  and  recom- 
mended their  children  to  our  commiseration,  and 
themselves  to  our  forgiveness. 

The  morning  was  cloudy,  with  small  rain,  never- 
theless I  ordered  the  men  to  load  the  canoe,  and  we 
proceeded  in  high  spirits  on  finding  ourselves  once 
more  so  comfortably  together  in  it.  We  landed  at  an 
house  on  the  first  island,  where  we  procured  a  few- 
salmon,  and  four  fine  beaver-skins.  There  had  beea 
much  more  rain  in.  these  pfarts  than  in  the  country 
above,  as  the  water  was  pouring  down  the  hillsin  tor-- 
rents.  The  river  consequently  rose  with  great  ra-* 
pidity,  and  very  much  impeded  our  progress*^ 

The  people  on  this  river  are  generally  of  the  mid- 
dle size,  though  I  saw  many  tall  men  among  them^ 
In  the  cleanliness  of  their  persons  they  resemble  ra-* 
ther  the  Beaver  Indians. than  the  Chepewyans.  They' 
are  ignorant  of  the  use  of  fire  arms,  and  their  only; 
weapons  are  bows  and  arrows,^  and  tpeai^s.  Thejr 
catch  the  larger  animals  in  snares,  but  though  theiir 
eountry  abounds  ia  them,  and  the  rivess  and  la^&a» 


414  Journal  of  a  Voyage  throitgft  the 

produce   plenty  of  fish,  they  find  a  difficulty  in  sirp- 
supporting  themselves,  and  are  never  to  be  seen  but  in 
small  bands  of  two  or  three  families.     There  is  no  re- 
gular government  among  them  ;  nor  do  they   appear 
to  have  a  sufficient  communication  or  understanding 
■with  each  other,  to   defend  themselves  against  an  in- 
vading enemy,  to  whom  they  fall  an  easy  prey.     They 
have  all  the  animals  common  on  the  west  side  of  the 
mountains,  except  the  buffaloe  and  wolf;  at  least  we 
saw  none  of  the  latter,   and  there  being  none   of  the 
former,  it  is  evident  that  their  progress  is  from  the 
iouth  east.     The  language  is  spoken,  with  very  little 
exception,  from  the  extent  of  my"" travels  down  thisri- 
Ter,  and  in  a  direct  line  from  the  north-east  head  of 
it  in  the  latitude  53°  or  54°  to  Hudson's  Bay  ;  so  that 
*a  Chepewyan,  from  which  tribe  they  have  all   sprung, 
might  leave  Churchill  River,  and  proceeding  in  every 
direction  to  the  north-west  of  this  line,  without  knowing 
any  language  except  his  own,  would  understand  them 
all ;  I  except  the  natives  of  the  sea  coast,  who  are  al- 
together a  difFerent  people.  As  to  the  people  to  the  east- 
ward of  this  river,  lam  not  qualified  to  speak  of  them. 
At  twelve  we  ran  our  canoa  upon  a  rock,  so  that  \^e 
were  obliged  to  land  in  order  to  repair  the  injury  she 
had  received  ;  and  as  the  rain  came  on  with  great  vio- 
lence, we  remained  her«  for  the  night.     The  salmon 
were  now  driving  up  the  current  in  such  large  shoals, 
that  the  water  seemed,  as  it  W€  re,  to  be  covered   with 
the  fins  of  them. 

Wednesday  7.  About  nine  this  morning  the  weather 
cleared,  and  we  embarked^  The  shoals  of  salmon 
continued  as  yesterday.  Thei'e  were  frequent  show- 
ers throughout  the  day,  and  every  brook  was  deluged 
into  a  river.  The  water  had  risen  at  least  one  foot 
and  an  half  perpendicular  in  the  last  twenty-four  hours. 
In  the  dusk  of  the  evening  we  landed  for  the  night. 

Thursday  8.  The  water  continued  rising  during  the 
night ;  so  that  we  were  disturbed  twice  in  the  course 
of  it,  to  remove  our  baggage.  At  six  in  the  morning 
we  were  on  our  way,  and  proceeded  with  continual 
and  laborious  exertion,  from  tli«  increased  rapidity  of 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        415 

the  current.  After  having  passed  the  two  carrying 
places  of  Rocky  Point,  and  the  Long  Portage,  we  en- 
camped for  the  night. 

Friday  9.  We  set  off  at  five,  after  a  rainy  night, 
and  in  a  foggy  morning.  The  water  still  retained  its 
height.  The  sun,  however,  soon  beamed  upon  us  ; 
and  our  clothes  and  baggage  were  in  such  a  state  that 
we  landed  to  dry  them.  After  some  time  we  re-em- 
barked, and  arrived  at  our  first  encampment  on  this 
river  about  evening.  The  water  fell  considerably  in 
the  course  of  the  day. 

Saturday  10.  The  weather  was  cloudy  with  slight 
showers,  and  at  five  tKis  morning  we  embarked,  tht 
water  falling  as  fast  it  had  risen.  This  circumstance 
arises  from  the  mountainous  state  of  the  country  on 
cither  side  of  the  river,  from  whence  the  water  rush- 
es down  almost  as  fast  it  falls  from  the  heavens,  with 
the  addition  of  the  snow  it  melts  in  its  way.  At  eight 
in  the  evening  we  stopped  for  the  night. 

Sunday  11.  At  five  this  morning  we  proceeded  with 
clear  weather.  At  ten  we  came  to  the  foot  of  the 
long  rapid,  which  we  ascended  with  poles  much  easier 
than  we  expected.  The  rapids  that  were  so  strong, 
and  violent  in  our  passage  downwards,  were  now  so 
reduced,  that  we  could  hardly  believe  them  to  be  the 
same.     At  sun-set  we  landed  and  encamped. 

Monday  12.  The  weather  was  the  same  as  yesterday, 
and  we  were  on  the  water  at  a  very  early  hour.  At 
nine  we  came  to  a  part  of  the  river  where  there  was 
little  or  no  current.  At  noon  we  landed  to  gum  the 
canoe,  when  I  took  a  meridian  altitude,  which  gave 
54.  1 1.  36.  north  latitude.  We  continued  our  route 
nearly  east,  and  at  three  in  the  afternoon  approached 
the  fork,  when  I  took  time,  and  the  distance  between 
the  sun  and  moon.  At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  left  the 
main  branch.  The  current  was  quite  slack,  as  the  wa- 
ter had  fallen  six  feet,  which  must  have  been  in  the 
course  of  three  days.  At  sun-set  we  landed  and  took 
our  station  for  the  night. 

Tuesday  13.  There  was  a  yery  heavy  rain  in  the 
night,  and  tiie  morning  was  cloudy.;  we  reaewed  our 


416  yournalof  a  Voyage  through  tht 

voyage,  however,  at  a  very  early  hour,  and  came  to 
the  narrow  gut  between  the  mountains  of  rock,  which 
was  a  passage  of  some  risk ;  but  fortunately  the  state  of 
the  water  was  such,  that  we  got  up  without  any  diffi- 
culty, and  had  more  time  to  examine  these  extraordi- 
nary rocks  than  in  our  outward  passage.  They  are  a» 
perpendicular  as  a  wall,  and  give  the  idea  of  a  succes-* 
sion  of  enormous  Gothic  churches.  We  were  now 
closely  hemmed  in  by  the  mountains,  which  have  lost 
much  of  their  snow  since  our  former  passage  by  them* 
We  encamped  at  a  late  hour,  cold,  wet,  and  hungry : 
for  such  was  the  state  of  our  provisions,  that  our  ne- 
cessary allowance  did  not  answer  to  the  active  cra- 
vings of  our  appetites. 

Wednesday  1 4.  The  weather  was  cold  and  raw,  with 
small  rain,  but  our  necessities  would  not  suffer  us  to 
wait  for  a  favorable  change  of  !t,  and  at  half  past  live, 
we  arrived  at  the  swampy  carrying-place,  between 
this  branch  and  the  small  river.  ;  At  three  in  the  af- 
ternoon the  cold  was  extreme,  and  the  men  couM  not 
keep  themselves  warm,  even  by  their  violent  exer- 
tions which  our  situation  require  ;  and  I  now  gave 
them  the  remainder  of  our  rum  to  fortify  and  support 
them.  The  canoe  was  so  heavy  that  the  lives  of  two 
of  them  were  endangered  in  this  horrible  carrying 
place.  At  the  same  time  it  must  be  observed,  that 
from  the  fatiguing  circumstances  of  our  journey,  and 
the  inadequate  state  of  cur  provisions,  the  natural 
strength  of  the  men  had  been  greatly  ditninished. 
We  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  bad  river. 

Thursday  15.  The  weather  was  now  clear,  and  the 
sun  shone  upon  us.  The  water  was  much  lower  than 
in  the  downward  passage,  but  as  cold  as  ice,  r.nd, 
unfortunately)  the  men  were  obliged  to  be  continually 
in  it  to  drag  on  the  canoe.  There  were  many  embar- 
ras,  through  which  a  passage  might  have  been  made, 
but  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  carrying  both  the 
canoe  and  baggage. 

About  sun-set  we  arrived  at  our  encampment  of  the 
13th  of  June,  where  sonve  of  us  had  nearly  taken  our 
eternal  voyage.    The  legs  and  feet  of  the  men  were^ 


North-West-  Continent  of  America,        41 7 

fO  benumbed,  that  I  was  very  apprehensive  of  the 
Qonsequences.  I'he  water  being  low,  we  made  a 
search  for  our  bag  of  ball,  but  without  success.  The 
river  was  full  of  salmon,  and  another  hsli  like  the 
black  bass, 

,  Friday  16.  The  weather  continued  to  be  the  same 
as  yesterday,  and  at  two  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to 
the  carrying-place  which  leads  to  the  first  small  lake; 
but  it  was  so  filled  with  drifi-n^ood,  that  a  considerable 
portion  of  time  was  employed  in  making  our  way 
through  it.  We  now  reached  the  high  land  which 
separates  the  source  of  the  Tacoutche  Tes'^e,  or  Co- 
lumbia River,  and  Unjigah,  or  Peace  River  :  the  lat- 
ter of  whichj  after  receiving  many  tributary  streaans, 
passes  thix>ughthe  great  Slave  Lake,  and  disembogues 
itself  in  the  Frozen  Ocean,  in  latitude  69^.  norths  Ion* 
gitude  135.  west  ft  m  Greenwich  ;  while  the  foVmer, 
confined  by  the  i  inense  mountains  that  run  nearly 
parallel  with  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  keep  it  in  a 
southern  course,  empties  itself  in  46.  20.  north  lati- 
tude, and  longitude  124.  west  from  Greenwich. 

If  I  could  have  spared  the  time,  and  had  been  able 
to  exert  rayself,  for  I  was  now  afflicted  with  a  swel- 
ling in  my  anqkS)  so  that  I  could  not  even  walk,  but 
with  great  pain  and  difficulty,  it  was  my  intention  ts^ 
have  taken  some  salmon  alive,  and  colonised  them  iu> 
the  Peace  River,  though  it  is  very  doubtful  whetbtfj 
tliatfishwoiuld  live  in  waters  that  have  not  a  cgimni^ 
nication  with  the  sea.  -  •.    ;Vf 

Some  of  the  inhabitants  had  been  here  since  we 
passed  ;  and  I    apprehend,  that   on  seeing  our  road 
through  their  country,  they  mistook  us  tor  enemies, 
and  had  therefore  deserted  the  place,  which  is  a  most, 
convenient  station  ;  as   on  one  side  there  is  a  gree^t 
plenty  of  white  fish,  and  trout,  jub,  carp,  8«c.  and  or^ 
the  other,  abundance  of  salmon,  and  probably  oth«;t' 
fish.     Several  things  thatl  had  left  here  in  exchan^. 
for  articles  which  I  had  possessed  mvself,  as  object* 
of  curiosity)  were  taken  away.     The   whirtle-berries 
were  now  ripe,  and  very  fine  of  their  kind. 

Saturday  If.     The   morning  was  cloudy y  and   at 


418  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the}.^ 


five  ^Ye  renewed  our  progress.  We  were  compelled 
to  carry  from  the  lake  to  the  Peace  River,  the  pas- 
sage, from  the  falling  of  the  water,  being  wholly  ob- 
structed by  drift-wood.  The  meadow  through  which 
we  passed  was  entirely  inundated  ;  and  from  the 
state  of  my  foot  and  ancle,  I  was  obliged,  tlmuglv 
with  great  reluctance,  to  submit  to  be  carried  over  it. 

At  half  past  seven  we  began  to  glide  along  with  the 
current  of  the  Peace  River  ;  and  almost  at  every  ca- 
noe's length  we  perceived  beaver  roads  to  and  from  the 
river.  At  two  in  the  afternoon,  an  pbject  attracted 
pur  notice  at  the  entrance  of  a  small  river,  whiclv 
proved  to  be  the  four  beaver  skins,  already  mention- 
ed to  have  been  presented  to  me  by  a  native,  and  left 
in  his  possession  to  receive  them  on  my  return.  J 
Imagined,  therefore,  that  being  under  the  necessity 
of  leaving  the  river,  or,  p(;rhiips,  fearing  to  meet  us 
again,  he  had  taken  this  method  to  restore  them  tq 
me  ;  and  to  reward  his  honesty,  I  left  three  times  the 
yalue  of  the  skins  in  their  place.  The  snow  appear- 
ed in  patches  on  the  mountains.  At  four  in  the  af- 
ternoon -vye  passed  the  place  where  we  foimd  the  first 
natives,  and  landed  for  the  night  at  a  late  hour.  la 
the  course  of  the  day  we  caught  nine  outards,  or  Ca- 
nacfa  geese,  but  they  were  yet  without  their  feathers. 

Sunday  j8.  As  soon  as  it  was  light  we  proceeded 
-oq  our  voyage,  and  drove  on  before  the  current, 
which  was  very  much  diminished  in  its  strength,  since 
we  came  up  it.  The  water  indeed  wjg^s  so  low,  that 
in  many  parts  it  exposed  a  gravelly  beach..  At  eleven 
we  landed  at  our  encampment  of  the  seventh  of  June, 
to  gum  the  canoe  and  dry  our  cloihes ;  we  then  re- 
embarked,  and  at  half  past  five  arrived  at  the  place, 
where  I  lost  my  book  of  memorandums,  on  the 
fourth  of  June,  in  which  were  certain  coiicses  and 
distances  between  that  day  and  the  twenty-sixth  of 
May,  which  I  had  now  an  opportunity  to  supply. 
They  were  as  follow  :  .  : 

North-north-west  half  a  mile,  east  by  north  half  a 
mile,  north  by  east  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  noith-westby 
west  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  west-sguth-west  half  a  mile, 


north-\ 

three  q 

north-v 

north-v 

one  mil 

west  bj 

mile  ati 

north -\\ 

t)f  ami 

west  tw 

'We'i 

river    v 

swarine 

Thfere  ; 

we  took 

Mond 

the  nigl 

three  qi 

north  hi 

of  a   m 

to  the 

mile,  w 

by  nortl 

north-w 

river   fi 

north  ht 

half;  a 

mile  an( 

south-w 

a  mile, 

quarters 

west-soi 

by  west 

west  a  I 

four  mil 

a  mile, 

mile,  n( 

north-nc 

by  nortl 

half,  an< 

iiiountai 


Kbrth'West  Continent  of  America,        419 

north-west  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  north-north-west 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  north  by  east  half  a  mile, 
north-west  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  west  half  a  mile, 
north-west  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  vvest-north-wcot 
one  mile  and  a  quarter,  north  three  quarters  of  a  mile^ 
west  by  north  one  quarter  of  a  mile,  north-west  one 
mile  and  an  half,  west-north-west  half  a  mile,  north- 
north-west  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  west  one  quarter 
of  a  mile,  north- north-east  half  a  mile,  north-north- 
west two  miles,  And  north-west  four  miles,  ''^v'-  *'^' 
We  Were  seven  days  in  going  up  that  part  of  the 
river  which  we  came  down  to-day  ;  and  it  now 
swarined,  as  it  were,  with  beavers  and  wild  fowl* 
There  was  rain  in  the  afternoon,  and  about  sun-set 
we  took  our  station  for  the  night. 
^-''Monday  19.  We  had  some  small  rain  throughout 
the  night.  Hf)ttf  course  to  day  was  south-south-west 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  west-north-west  half  a  milfei 
north  half  a  miley  iii>rth-west  by  west  three  quarters 
of  a  mile,  north  by  west  half  a  mile  ;  a  small  river 
to  the  left,  south-west  by  west  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  west-north-west  a  mile  and  an  half,  li'orth-west 
by  north  foiir  miles,  a  rivulet  on  the  right,  weSt- 
north- west  three  quarters  of  a  mile  ;  a  considerable 
river  fi*6m  the  left,  noith-north-west  two  miles, 
north  half  a  mile,  West-north-west  one  mile  and  an 
half;  a  rivult?ton  the  right,  north-west  by  west  ofie 
mile  and  a  ^luarter,  west-north-west  one  mile,  west- 
south-west  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  north-north-west  half 
a  mile,  north-west  half  a  mile,  west-south-west  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,  north-west  by  west  three  miles, 
west-south-west  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  north-Wt&t 
by  west  one  mile  ;  a  small  river  on  the  right,  south- 
west a  quarter  of  a  mile,  west-north-west,  islands, 
four  miles  and  an  half,  a  rivtr  on  the  left,  north  half 
a  mile,  west  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  north  a  quarter  or  a 
mile,  north-west  by  west  three  quarters  of  a  milei 
north-north-east  three  'quarters  of  a  mile,  north-west 
by  north  half  a  mile,  west-north-west  a  mile  and  an 
half,  and  north-wep.  by  north  half  a  milei  The 
mountains   were   covered   with    fresh  snow,  whose 


420  Jvurrial  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

showers  had  dl»solved  in  rain  hcfore  they  reached  u$« 
North-west  three  quarters  of  a  mile»  south-west  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  north  a  mile  and  three  quarters, 
West-north-west  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  north-west  a 
mile  and  an  half,  north-north-west  half  a  inile,  west- 
north-west,  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  north  half  a  mile  ; 
here,  the  current  was  slack  :  no/th^wesi  bjyjnorth  half 
a  mile,  nortli-we^t  biy  w.ejit*iquarlfti*  ©f  ft^mile,.  north- 
northnAvest  a  quai'ter  of  at  n^l^i  ^pofth-.lyest.  by  West 
one  mile  and  a  qua.iHurj  PK>i?^  '  h*lf  a  iiiile»  north- 
east by  north  one  mile,  ^v^fl  ^k^efs  quarters,  south- 
west one  mile  and  a  quwrter,  wUh  an  island,  north  by 
east  one  mile,  northr-weat.  ,He,Fe  the  other  branch 
opened  to  us,  ^t.,fi\f  ,,4iM»»Qi?  .ftf,tl»Cfie  quarters  of  a 
wile.  n   -  x'jjjnr  awn!  l.tjrf   r"-   ;'rf  >''• 

I. expected  from  the  s)a(rl;^98  of  the  current  in  this 
branch,  that  the  weijt<^vi>i'  ;0,pe!  ^would  be  high,  but  I 
found  it  equally  low^  I  had  every  reason  to  believe 
that  froan  the  up>per  part  of  this  branch,  the  distance 
could  not  be  great  to  the  country  through  which  I 
paBsed  wlien  1  left  the  Great  River  ;  but  it  has  since 
been  determined  otherwise  by  Mr.  J.  Finlay,  who  was 
^i^nt  to  explore  it,  and  found  its  navigation  soon  termi- 
nated by  falls  and  rapids. 

,  The  branches  are  about  two  hundred  yards  in 
l;>readth>  and  the  water  was  six  feet  lower  than  on  our 
i^pward. passage.  Our  course,  after  the  junction, 
was  north-north-west  one  mile,  the  rapid  north-east 
down  it  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  north  by  west  one 
mile  and  a  quarter,  north  by  east  one  mile  and  an 
half,  east  by  south  one  mile,  north-east  two  miles  and 
an  half,  east-north-east  a  quarter  of  a  mile  ;  a  rivulet; 
.casit  by  south  one  mile  and  an  half,  north-east  two 
,niilesv  east*north-ea&t  one  mile,  north-north-east  a 
q.i|art^r  of  a  mile,  north-east  by  east  half  a  mile,  east- 
south-eabt  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  east-north-east  half  a 
mile,  north-east  two  miles,  north-east  by  east  two 
milfts  and  a  quarter,  south-east  by  east  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  a  rivulet  from  the  left  ;  east  by  north  a 
mile  and  an  half,  east  by  south  one  mile,  east- 
north-east  one  mile   and  three  quarters ;  a  river  on 


North^lVeit  Continent  of  AmeHta.        ^i» 


ched  ud- 
;li-west  a 
quarters, 
th-west  a 
lie,  west- 
a   mile  ; 
north  half 
1<?,.  north- 
.  by  "West 
Ic)  north- 
fs,  south- 
,  north  by 
er  branch 
arters  of  a 

ent  in  this 
igh,  but  I 
to  believe 
le  distance 
jh  which  I 
t  has  since 
y,  who  was 
oon  ter mi- 
yards   in 
ban  on  our 
3  junction, 
north-east 
west  one 
[iile  and  an 
miles  and 
a  rivulet ; 
jh-east  two 
3rth-east  a 
mile,  east- 
-ast  half  a 
east  two 
a   quarter 
y    north   a 
n\ile,    east- 
a  river  on 


i\ 


the  right ;  north-north-east  thfec  qtiartci's  of  a  mile, 
north-east  a  mile  ahd  an  half,  north-eat^t'  by  ekit' 
a' mile  and  a  quarter,  east-north-^east  half  a  mile,  and] 
north-east  by  north  half  a  mile.  Here  we  landed^ at'- 
our  «nciiinpment  of  the  27th  of  June,  from  wfitrice  I^ 
dispatched  a  letter  in  an  empty  keg,  as  was  rtientibti-' 
ed  in  that  period  of  my  journal,  which  set  fdrth  our^ 
eyJeHne:  state,  pri^gress,  and  expectation. 

2\iitauy'i0:     llibtQgfa  the   we&ther  wds  clefkr;  we 
could  nM  embark'  this  morning  before  five^  as  there ' 
wbs-arafidd  very  neur  uti,  which  requited  day -light  to' 
run  it,  that  we  mig^ht  notbr^ldc^ur  cahoe  onth^  rock^i 
Tiie  baggage  we  were  obliged  to  cari*y«     Our  coUrse 
was  north  by  east  a  mile  arid  ah  half,  north-north-east' 
a  mite  and  aft  half  down  another  rapitt'on'  the  west ' 
side';  it  requires  great  care  to  kteep' directly 'between 
tlie^  eddy  current,  and  that  which  Wiis  driving  doWh ' 
with  so  much  impetuosity ^    We  then  proceeded  ^6rth^ 
north-west,  a  river  from  the  right  j  a  'nitte  and  a^ii^-  ^ 
terj  north^nonlveaftt  a  iriile  arid  an  htHf*;  it  river  f^niu* 
thte  left  ;  north'  iyne'  mile  ■  and  thriJC  quarters,  nof th-edst ' 
two  miks,  north'^ast  by  east  twb  iriiles  antt'ii  quartelTi 
east  by  north  one  mile^  noi'th-east  by^^east  foii**' iriflcsi 
a  rrver  fi-oW  theleft,  and'iettsi^'by'sOril^'ainil^'ai^dirn 
half*     Heref'W^s  our  eneaiApfiri^At*on  th^  1i6th  of  Mdy; 
beyond  wiiich  it  would  be'  altttgteth^^u^i4iuoti«  fm*' 
me  *to  take  the^urses,  as  they 'arc!  inserted  iii  tfi^iv 
proper  places*- 

As  w*  continued  our'voyttgef  our  attention  Wis  utf-i 
tracted  by  the  appearance  of  an  Indian' encampiriletitV 
We  accordingly  landtid,  and  found  thfcre  ha*  beeii  fivfe" 
fires,  and  within  that  iiUmbferof 'days^^o'  thkttfiefrfe' 
must  have  been  some  inhabitants  in  the'neigfibdr*- 
hood,  though' we  were  not  'so  fortunate  as  to'see  theittw 
It  appeared  that  they  had  killed'a  number  of  anitnal^,' 
and  fled  in  a  state  of  alarm,  as  three*  of  their  canoeS 
were  left  carelessly  on  the  beachj  and  their  paddles  lay- 
ing about  in  disorder.  We  soonaftfer  came  tb  the  cart-y- 
ing-place  called  the  Portage  de  la  Montagiie  de  Roche. 
Here  I  had  a  meridian  altitudd,  which  made  the  lati* 
tude  56*  3.  51.  north. 


422  journal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

The  water,  as  I  have  already  observed,  was  much 
lower  than  when  we  came  up  it,  though  at  the  same 
time,  the  current  appeared  to  be  stronger  from  this 
place  to  the  forks ;  the  navigation,  however,  would 
now  be  attended  with  great  facility,  as  there  is  a  stony 
beach  all  the  way,  so  that  poles,  or  the  towing  line, 
may  be  employed  with  the  beat  effect,  where  the  cur- 
rent overpowers  the  use  of  paddles. 

We  were  now  reduced  to  a  very  short  allowance ; 
the  disappointment,  therefore,  at  not  seeing  any  ani- 
mals was  proportioned  to  our  exigencies,  as  we  did 
not  possess,  at  this  time,  more  than  was  sufficient  to 
serve  us  for  two  meals*  I  now  dispatched  Mr.  Ailac- 
kay  and  the  Indians  to  proceed  to  the  foot  of  the 
rapids,  and  endeavor  in  their  way  to  procyre  some 
provisions,  while  I  prepared  to  employ  the  utn^ost 
expedition  in  getting  there  ;  having  determined  not- 
withstanding the  disinclination  of  my  people,  from 
the  recollection  of  what  they  had  suffered  in  coming 
that  way,  to  return  by  the  same  route,  t  had  ob- 
served, indeed,  that  the  water  which  had  fallen  fifteen 
feet  perpendicular,  at  the  narrow  pass  below  us,  had 
lost  much  of  its  former  turbulence. 

As  dispatch  was  essential  in  procuring  a,  s^upply  of 
provisions,  we  did  not  delay  a  moment  in  making 
preparation  to  renew  our  progress.  Five  of  the  men 
began,  to  carry  the  baggage,  while  the  sixth  and 
myself  took  the  canoe  asunder,  to  cleanse  her  of  the 
dirt,  and  expose  her  lining  and  timbers  to  the  air, 
which  would  render  her  much  lighter.  About  sun- 
set Mr.  Mackay  and  our  hunters  returned  with  heavy 
buiHlens  of  the  flesh  of  a  buffalo :  though  not  very 
tendery  it  was  very  acceptable,  and  was  the  only  ani- 
mal that  they  had  seen,  tlwughthe  country  was  co- 
vered with  traeks  of  them,  as  well  as  of  the  moose- 
deer  and  the  elk.  The  former  had  done  rutting,  and 
the  latter  were  beginning  to  run.  Our  people  return- 
ed, having  left  their  loads  mid-way  on  the  carrying- 
place.  My  companion  and  myself  completed  our 
undertaking,  and  the  canoe  was  ready  to  be  carried 


as  muck 
lie  same 
om  this 
r,  would 
s  a  stony 
ing  line, 
the  cur- 

owance ; 
any  ani- 
s  we  did 
[icient  to 
Ir.  Mac- 
jt  of  the 
re  some 
!  utn)ost 
ned  not- 
ile)  from 

coming 
had  ob- 
gn  fifteen 

US)  had 

Lupply  of 
making 
the  men 
ixth  and 
,er  of  the 
the  air, 
3out  sun- 
ith  heavy 
not  very 
only  ani- 
yr  was  CO- 
;  moose- 
ting,  and 
e  return- 
carry  ing- 
eted  our 
»e  carried 


North-West  Continent  of  America,        423 

in  the  morning.     An  hearty  meaV  concluded  the  day, 
and  every  fear  of  future  want  was  removed. 

Wedneaday  21.  When  the  morning  dawned  we  set 
forwards,  but  as  a  (ire  had  passed  through  the  portage, 
it  was  with  diflficuUy  we  could  trace  our  road  in  many 
parts  }  and  with  all  the  exertion  of  which  we  were 
capable,  we  did  not  arrive  at  the  river  till  four  in  the 
afternoon.  We  found  almost  as  much  djjfiiculty  in 
carrying  our  canoe  down  the  mountain  as^e  had  in 
getting  it  up  ;  the  men  being  not  «ol  strong  as  on 
the  former  occasion,  though  they  were  in  better  spi- 
I'its ;  and  I  was  now  enabled  to  assist  them,  my  an- 
cle being  almost  well.  We  could  not,  however,  pro- 
ceed any  further  till  the  following  day,  as  we  had 
the  canoe  to  gum,  with  several  great  and  small  poles 
to  prepare  :  those  we  had  left  here  having  been  car- 
ried away  by  the  water,  though  we  had  left  them  in  a 
position  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  above  the  water- 
mark at  that  time.  These  occupations  employed  us 
till  a  very  late  hour. 

Thursday  23.  The  night  was  cold,  and  though 
the  movning  was  fine  and  clear,  it  y/as  seven  before 
we  were  in  a  state  of  preparation  to  leave  this  place, 
sometimres  driving  with  the  current,  and  at  other 
times  shooting  the  rapids.  The  latter  had  lost  much 
of  their  former  strength  ;  but  we,  nevertheless^ 
thought  it  neceosary  to  land  very  #equently,  in  order 
to  examine  the  rapids  before  we  could  venture  to  run 
them.  However  the  canoe  being  light,  we  very  for- 
tunately passed  thevi  all,  and  at  noon  arrived  at  the 
place  where  I  appointed  to  meet  Mr.  Mackay  and 
the  hunters  :  there  we  foundlhem  with  plenty  of 
excellent  fat  meat,  ready  roasted,  as  they  had  killed 
two  elks  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  spot  where 
we  then  were.  When  the  men  had  satisfied  their 
appetites,  I  sent  them  for  as  much  of  the  meat  as 
they  could  carry.  In  coming  hither,  Mr.  Mackay 
informed  mc,  that  he  and  the  hunters  kept  along  the 
high  land,  and  did  not  see  or  cross  the  Indian  path* 
At  the  same  time  there  can  be  no  doubt  but  the  road 
^iOflgt  this  plaQQ  to  the  upper  part  of  thi^  rapids  i&  t^ 


HM*         yQurmi  cfa  Vot^^gf  through  the 


be  ptefcrc«>^l  to^b^t  which  we^camC)  both  for  expe- 
dition andsafqty. 

After  staying  .here  about  an  hour  and  an  half,  we 
Brocecde^l  with  the  stream,  and  landed  where  I  had 
foxgotten  my  pipe-tomiihawk  and  seal,  on  the  eigh- 
.^eenth  of  May.  'f^lvc  former  of  them  I  now  recovered. 

On  leaving  the  mountai^is  we  saw  animals  grazing 
in  every  clirection.  In  passing  along  an  island,  we 
fired  fit  (ft.tlV^,  and  broke  its  leg  ;  and,  as  it  was  now 
JLipne  ,to  qpcampi,  \ve  landed  ;  when  the  hunters  pur- 
sued t^e  ^o\indcd  aninial,  which  had  crossed  oyer  to 
^the  main  land,  but  could  not  get  up  the  b£i,ivk*  We 
^v.ent  after  it,  therefore,  '\n  the  canqe,  and  killed  it. 
To  give  soxne  notion  of  our  appetites,  I  shall  state 
jthe  elH,or  atle^ast  the  carcase  of  it,  which  we  brought 
jiway,  to  have  weighed  two  hundred ^nd  5fty  pounds; 
and  as  we  ha^  ^ken  a  very  hearty  ;neal  at  one.o'clookf 
it  might  naturally  be  suippose^d  t,hat  w^  should  not  be 
yery  voracjiqus  at  sU|E)f>er  ;  ney^rthpjess,  a  kettle  full 
of  the  elk-flesh  was  boiled  and  eatten,  and  that  vessel 
rcplenisl\ed  and  put  on  the  fire^  all  tlmt  remained) 
witl^  the  bones,  Sec.  was  placed,  after  the  Indian 
iashion,  round  the  fire  to  roast,  and  at  iten  next 
morning  the  whole  was  consyraecl  by  ten  persons  and 
yk  large  49|>;,  yho  w^s  allowed  liis  share  of  the  baux 
quet.  Thif  js  i>o  eK/aggeration  *,  igior  did  any  incon* 
yci^ience  result  iviffn  wht^t  Qlay  b^  cp^^idered  as  mx 
inprd^n^te  indulgence. 

Fri4»y  23.  We  were  di>  the  water  before  ^iay** 
light  ;  and  w|ijen  the  sun  rose,  a  beautiful  country 
fippeared  i^rpupd  us,  ^ni'iched  ftnd  animated  by  Urge 
\\cY(\^  of  wild  catjLje.  The  weather  was  now  so  n^arm^ 
\\i^\  to  us,  wbo  ha^d  not  of  late  been  accustomed  to 
|>eatf  it  vvas  pverwhelmtng  ^nd  oppvessiye*  In  the 
course  of  this  day  we  killed  a  buHkloe  and  a  bear  ; 
but  we  were  now  in  the  midst  of  abundance,  and  they 
were  not  sulficientjy  fat  to  satisfy  our  f^tidious  ap- 
petites, so  we  left  thend  where  they  fell.  We  landed 
for  the  pight,  and  prgpfired  ourselves  for  arriving  at 
Vl)e  Fort  on  the  fpupwipg  4ay* 

Sq^t^'dqy  24,    Tb^  weather  was  the  same  as  yc&n 


)r  expc- 

half,  wc 
ire  I  hafl 
;he  eigh- 
covered, 
grazing 
land,  we 
was  now 
ers  pur- 
d  oyer  to 
Ot.  We 
killed  it. 
ali  state 
brought 
pounds; 
i.o'clock, 
d  not  be 
ottlc  full 
at  vessel 
imained) 
Indian 
?n  next 
sons  and 
tbe  batxm 
r  incon* 
d  fis  «a 

ore  day- 
country 
Djr  large 
>o  warm, 
omed  to 
In  the 
a  bear ; 
j.nd  they 
ious  ap- 
;:  landed 
riving  at 

as  ye&i 


Morth-lVeit  Continent  c/Amenca,         4^3 

lerday»and  the  country  increasing  in  beauty  ;  thoi 
as  we  approached  tlie  Fort,  the  cattle  appeared  f  o- 
portionably  to  diminish*  We  now  landed  at 
lodges  of  Indiana,  who  were  as  astonished  to  see  u^y 
as  if  we  had  been  the  first  white  men  whom  they  had 
ever  beheld.  When  we  had  passed  these  people, 
n9t  an  animal  was  to  be  seen  on  the  borders  of  the 
»iv?.r.  It;  ^nr  '^ 

/Nr At  length)  as  weToundeda  point,  and  oatRc  '<tn 
view  of  th|!  Fort,  we  threw  out  ourflatg^  and  acooiti- 
puinied  it  with  a  ger^eral  dischit^^^e  of  our  fire  lirms; 
while  the  men  were  in  such  spirits,  and  made  such 
an  active  vise  of  Iheir  paddles,  that  we  arrived  before 
thetyvp  men  whom  we  left  here  in  the  spring,  could 
recover  their  senjies  to  answer  us.  Thus  we  landed 
at  (bur  in  t'  j  afternoon,  at  the  place  which  we  Icfi  on 
the  ninth  qf'lVlay— *Here  my  voyages  of  discavcry 
terminat;e4    Their  toils  and  their  dangers,  their  noli-' 

^  citudes  and  sufferings,  have  not  been  exaggerated  in 
my  description..  On  the  contrary,  in  matty  Uistatides, 
language  has  failed  me  in  the  attempt  to  describe 
them.  I  received,  however,  the  reward  of  my  labors, 
for  they  were  crowned  with  success* 

As  I  have  now  i^esumed  the  character  of  a;  trader,  I 
shall  i)o1f  trpul^Ie  finy  readers  with'iany  sUbaequtht 
epncern,  but  C(^:>tjent  myself  with  the  closing  Infor- 
mation, that  after  nn  absence  o{  eleven  months,  1  ar- 
rived at  Fort  Chepewyan,  where  1  remained,  for  the 
purposes  of  trade,  during  the  succiieding  wrtnterV^ 

o...M^..     '      •■■     t'j-ifr 

The  following  general,  but  short,  geographical 
▼icAV  of  the  country  miay  not  be  improper  taciose 
this  work,  as  well  as  some  remarks  on  the  probable 
advantages  that  may  be  derived  from  advancing  thfc 
trade  of  it,  under  proper  regulationsj  aad  bythetspirit 
of  commercial  enterprize.  :     voa  yvyfr  -ra  i\>d 

By  supposing  a  line  from  the  Atlantitv  east,  to*  the 
Pacific,  west,  in  the  parallel  of  forty-five  degrees  of 
nortK  latitude,  it  will,  I  think,  nearly  describe  thi; 
British  territories  in  Noith  America.  For  I  aiii  ot 
•pinion,  that   the  extent  of  the  country. tt)  the  kouti* 

Nn2 


426      '   jQUrnal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

of  this  lire,  which  we  have  a  right  \jo  claim)  is  equal 
to  that  to  the  north  of  it,  which  may  be  claimed  hf 
other  powers. 

The  outline  of  what  I  shall  call  the  firs^  division,  is 
alone^  that  tract  of  country  which  runs  from  the  head 
of  J^m^s-Bay,  in  about  latitude  51.  North,  along, 
the  eastern  coast,  as  far  north  as  to,  and  through, 
Hudson's  Straits,  round  by  Labrador  ;  continuing  on 
the  Atlantic  coast,  on  the  outside  of  the  great  islands, 
in  the  gulph  ^of  St.  Laurence,  to  the  river  St.  Croix, 
by  which  it  takes  its  course,  to  the  height  of  land  that 
divides  the  waters  emptying  themselves  into  the  At- 
lantic, from  those  discharged  into  the  river  St.  Lau* 
rence>  Then  following  these  heights,  as  the  boun- 
dary between  the  British  possessions,  and  those  of 
the  American  States,  it  makes  an  angle  westerly  un- 
til it  strikes  the  discharge  of  Ls^ce  Champlain,  in  la- 
titude 45.  north,  when  it  keeps  a  direct  west  line  till 
it  strikes  the  river  St.  Laurence,  above  Lake  St. 
Francis,  \^here  It  divides  the  Indian  village  St.  Ri^ 
gest ;  from  wheace  it  follows  the  centre  of  the  wa- 
ters of  the  great  river  St.  Laurence :  it  then  proceeds 
tlK*ough  Lake  Ontario,  the  connection  between  it  and 
Lake  Erie,  through  the  latter,  and  its  chain  of  con- 
nection, by  the  river  Detroit,  as  far  south  as  latitude 
42,  north,  and  then  through  the  lake  and  river  St. 
Clair,  as  also  Lake  Hutou,  through  which  it  conti* 
nues  to  the  strait  of  St.  Mary,  latitude  46|.  north  ; 
ft'om  V  hich  we  will  suppose  the  line  to  strike  to  the 
east  ot*  north,  to  the  head  of  James-B*y,  in  the  lati- 
tude already  mentioned. 

Of  this  great  tract,  more  than  half  is  represented 
as  barren  and  broken,  displaying  a  surface  of  rpck 
and  fresh  water  lakes,  with  a  very  scattered  and  scan- 
ty proportion  of  soil.  Such  is  the  whole  coast  of  La- 
brador, and  the  land  called  East  Main  to  the  west  of 
the  heights,  which  divide  the  waters  running  into  the 
river  and  gulph  of  St.  Laurence,  from  those  flowing 
into  Hudson's  Bay.  It  is  consequently  inhabited  only  • 
by  a  fevT  savages,  whose  numbers  are  proportioned  to 
the  scantiness  of  the  soil  j  nor  is  it  probable)  frd'm  the 


is  equal 
imed  by 

rision,  is 
he  head 
1)  along; 
ihroughi 
luing  on 

islands, 
.  Croix, 
and  that 
the  At- 
>t.  Lau* 
le  boun- 
Lhose  of 
erly  un- 
n,  in  la- 

line  till 
jake  St* 

St.  RiT 
the  wa-* 
»roceeds^ 
n  it  and 

of  con- 
latitude 
iver  St. 
conti- 

north  ; 

to  the 
he  lati- 

e  sen  ted 
of  rpck 
id  scan- 
of  La- 
west  of 
into  the 
flowing 
;ed  only 
dhed  to 
:dm  the 


^orth-West  Continent  ef  Amertea.       4S5' 

&ame  cause,  that  they  will  increase.  The  fresh  and 
salt  waters,  with  a  small  quantity  6f  game,  which  the 
few,  stinted  woods  afford,  supply  the  wants  of  na- 
ture: from  whence,  to  that  of  the  lint  ofthe^^me- 
rictui  boundary,  and  the  Atlantic  ocean,  th'6  soil, 
wherever  cultivation  has  been  attempted,  has  yielded 
abundance;  particularly  on  the  river  St.  L^ttrence, 
from  Quebec  iipwardsy  to  the  line  of  boundary^ alrea- 
dy mentioned  ;but  4  Very  inconsidei^^ble  propbiiibn  of 
it  has  been  broken  by  the  plou^hsharei*^'  *^  *^ ^\  * " - ?, 

The  line  of  the  se(;onddlvlsiottmaj^be  trikccdfrom 
that  of  the  first  at  St.  Mary's,  from  which  also  the 
line  of  American  boundary  nins,  and  is  said  to  con- 
tinue through  Lake  Superior,  (and  through  a  lake 
called  the  Long  Lake  which  has  ilo  existence)  to  the 
I<ake  of  the  Woods,  in  latitude  49*  37*  north,  from 
whence  it  is  also  said  Id  run  west  to  the  Missisippi, 
which  it  may  do,  by  givinig  it  a  good  deal  of  south- 
ing, but  not  otherwise ;  as  the  source  of  that  river 
doe«  not  extend  further  norlk  than  latitude  47.  38. 
north,  where  it  is  no  more  than  a  small  brook;  con* 
sequently,  if  Great>Britain  retains  the  right  of  enter- 
ing it  along  the  line  of  division,  it  must  be  in  a  lower 
latitude,  and  wherever  that  may  be,  the  line  must  be 
continued  west,  till  it  terminates  in  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
to  the  south  of  Uie  Columbia*  This  division  is  then 
bounded  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  iiie  Fro- 
zen Sea  and  Hudson's  Bay  icm  the  north  and  east» 
The  Russians,  indeed,  nta^  claim  with  justice,  the 
islands  and  coasts  from  Behring's  Straits  to  Cook's 
Entry.  .v., 

The  whole  of  this  country  will  long  continue  in  the 
possession  of  its  present  inhabitants,  as  they  will  re- 
main contented  with  the  produce  of  the  woods  and 
waters  for  their  support,  leaving  the  earth,  from  va- 
rious causes,  in  its  vii'gin  state.  The  proportion  of 
it  that  is  fit  for  cultivation  is  very  small,  and  is  still 
less  in  the  interior  parts :  it  is  also  very  difficult  of 
access;  and  whilst  any  land  remains  uncultivated  to 
the  south  of  it,  there  will  be  no  temptatimi  to  settle 
it*    Besides,  its  climate  is  not  in  general  suHiciently 


428  Joitrnal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

genial  to  bring  the  fruits  of  the  earth  to  maturity*    It 
will  also  be  an  asylum  for  the  descendants  of  the 
original  inhabitants  of  the  country  to  the  south,  who 
prefer  the  modes  of  life  qf  their  forefathers,  to  the 
improvements  of  civilization.      Of  this  disposition 
there  is  a  recent  instance^    .^  small  co4ony  of  Xrpquois 
,emigra^ed  to  the^ban)^  of^tfe.SaskatcWy«rme^ 
>hQ  had  been  l^rQ^ght^p'f^pin., their  infancy  ^iider 
"ih^  Ijomlsh  missipparies,  an^ ,  instructed,  jiy  tiifimvat 
'^^.':itUfage  witHiri.nine  miles  of.  IMjontreal.    ,7  ^.tM^jj  ] 
'  ^'A  furthier  diyisvori  of  this  country  is  marked ,  by  a 
ridge  of  high  ijand,  rising,  as  it.  were,  from  tlie  coast 
9fjLabradpr,a.nd-  running  nearlv  south-w^sV-to  the 
iSoui^celof  thje  XJtawas  Riyer,  dividing  thje  waters  go- 
ing eithei'  way  to  the  tiver  and  gul|^h  of  St.  Lau- 
"  re  rice  and  Hudison^s  Bay,  as  before  observed..    JFj'om 
thepde  it  stretches  to  the  north  of  west,  X<^  tlie'north- 
'ward  of  Lake   Superior,  to  latitude  50.   north,,  and 
longitude  89.  west,  when  it  forks  from  the  last  course 
at  about  south-west,  and  continues  thtj  same  division 
of  waters  untilit  passes  north  of  the  source  of  the 
Missisippi.     The  former    course  runs,  as  -has  been 
observed  in  a  north-west  direction,  until  it  strikes  the 
river  Nelson,  separating  the   waters  that   discharge 
themselves  into  Lake  Wii;iipic,  which  for'ms^^  part  of 
thi^^sj»^d  riv^r,  ;iind  those  that  pijsp  cpapty  theinsie;lves' 
^itito  Hudson's  Bay,  by  the  Albany,  Sfverh^  and  Hay'* 
"or  Hiirs  Rivers.     From  thence  it  keeps  a  toursie  of 
ibotlrwe»t-north-west,  till  it  fbrms  tli6  banks  6f  the 
Missinipi  or  Chtirchill  River,  at  Portage  de.  Traite, 
latitude  53.  25.  north.    It  now  continues  in  a  west- 
ern* direction,  between   the   Saskatchiwine  and  th^ 
fidurce   of  the  Mi&sinipi,  or   Beaver  River,  which  it 
leaves  behind,  and  divides  the  Saskatchiwine  from  the 
'Elk  River }  when,  leaving  those  alsobehind,  and  pur- 
suing the  satne  direction  it  leads  to  the  high  land  that 
lies  b6t^een  the  Unjigah  and  Tacoutche  rivers,  from 
W'hence  it  may  be   supposed  to  be  the  same   ridge. 
Fh)m  the  head  of  the  Beaver  River,  on  the  west,  the 
Sktne  kind  of  high  ground  runs  to  the  east  of  north, 
betwetn  th?  waters  of  the  £lk  River  and  the  Mid^i-^ 


>  '■* '? 


p> 


■'.'.* 


turity.  It 
ints  of  the 
louth)  who 
Ts,  to  the 
dIspoBition 
)f  Iroquois 
e,  iii!lfr99, 
icy  iinder 

.rkeft^by  a 
)  t^e  coast 
;st  to;  the 
ivat^rs  go- 
'  ,$t*  Lati- 
!<Jv*^  Fi*om 
the'norU)- 
or£h,,  and 
ast  course 
le  division 
'ce  of  the 
has  been 
itrikes  the 
discharge 
IS  part  of 
iems|e!lve* 
ind  Hay'* 
to^rseof 
ks  6f  the 
Traite, 
a  west- 
and  the 
which  it 
from  the 
and  pur- 
land  that 
;rs,  from 
le   ridge, 
w^est,  the 
)f  north, 
e  Miwi-^ 


NorthWest  Continent  (^  America,        420 

« 

nipi  forming  the  Portage  la  Loohe^  and  continuing  o^ 
to  the  latitude  57^.  north,  dividing  the  waters  that 
run  to  Hudson's  Bay  from  those  going  to  the  North 
Sea:  from  thence,  its  course  is  nearly  north)  when  an 
angle  runs  from  it  to  the  north  of  tike  Slave  Lake^ti^l 
it  strikes  Mackenzie's  Kiver. 

The  last,  but  by  no  meand  the  least,  is  the  immense 
xi()ge,  or  succession  of  ric^gefi  of  stony  mountainB^ 
whose  northern  extremity  dips  in  the  North  Sea,  ia 
.latitude  70.  north,  and  longitude  135.  west,  rruiMiing 
nearly  south-east,  and  begins  to  be  parallel  with  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  from  Cook's  entry,  and  so 
onwards  to  the  Columbia.  From  thence  it  appears  to 
quit  the  coast,  but  still  continuing,  with  less  elevation^ 
to  divide  the  waters  'of  the  Atlantic  from  those  which 
run  into  the  Pacific.  In  those  snow-clad  mountains 
rises  the  Mir&si&^ppi»  if  we  admit  the  Missiaouri  to  he 
its  source,  which  flows  into  the  Gulph  of  Mexico; 
tlie  Hiver  ^lelson,  which  is  lost  in  Hudson's  Bay  ; 
Macke'nzie's  River,  that  discharges  itself  into  the 
North  Sea ;  ?nd  the  Columbia  empty  ii^  itself  into 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  great  River  St.  Laurence 
and  Churchill  River,  with  many  lesser  oneii,  derive 
their  sources  far  short  of  these  mountains.  14:  i«,  in- 
deed, the  extension  of  these  mountains  so  far  south 
on  the  sea-coast,  that  prevents  the  Columbia  fro<a 
finding  a  snore  direct  course  to  the  sea,  as  it  rans  ob^ 
liquely  with  the  coast  upwards  of  eight  degrees  <£  la« 
titude  be^^re  it  mingles  with  the  oceaia. 

It  is  furthue»-  to  be  observed,  that  these  mountains^ 
from  Cook's  entry  to  the  Columbia,  extend  from  six 
to  eight  degree^  in  breadth  easterly ;  and  that  along 
their  eastern  skirts  is  a  narrow  strip  of  very  marshy 
boggy,  and  uneven  ground,  the  outer  edge  of  which 
produces  coal  and  bitumen  :  these  I  saw  on  the  banks 
of  Mackenzie's  River,  as  far  north  as  latitude  66.  I 
also  discovered  them  in  my  second  journey,  at  the 
commencement  of  the  rocky  mountains  in  56.  noith 
latitude,  and  120.  west  longitude  \  and  the  same  was 
observed  by  Mr.  Fidler,  one  of  the  servants  of  the 
Hudson's-Bay  Company)  at  thq  sQurce  of  the  soutK 


430  yournal  of  a  Voyage  through  the 

branch  of  the  Saskatchiwine,  in.  about  latitude  52. 
north,  and  longitude  1 1 2^  west.*  Next  to  this  narrow 
immense  plains^  or  meadows,  commencing  in  a  point 
at  about  the  junction  of  the  River  of  the  Mountain 
with  Mackenzie's  River,  widening  as  they  continue 
east  and  south,  tHl  they  **  ich  the  Red  River,  at  its 
confluence  with  the  AssiniOoin  River,  from  whence 
they  take  a  more  southern  direction,  along  the  Mis- 
sisi^oi  towards  Mexico.  Adjoining  to  these  plains  is 
a  bi  I.  en  country,  composed  of  lakes,  rocks,  and  soil. 

From  the  banks  of  the  riviers  running  through  ;he 
plains,  there  appeared  to  ooze  a  saline  fluid,  concret- 
ing into  a  thin  scurf  on  the  grass.  Near  vuat  part  of 
the  Slave  River  where  it  first  loses  the  name  of 
Peace  River,  and  along  the  extreme  edge  of  these 
plains,  are  very  strong  salt  springs,  which  in  the  sum- 
mer concrete  and  crystallize  in  great  quantities. 
About  the  Lake  Dauphin,  on  the  south-west  side  of 
Lake  Winipic,  are  also  many  salt  ponds,  but  it  re- 
quires a  regular  process  to  form  salt  from  them. 
Along  the  west  banks  of  the  former,  is  to  be  seen,  at 
intervals,  and  traced  in  the  line  of  the  direction  of  the 
plains,  a  soft  rock  of  lime-stone,  in  thin  and  nearly 
horizontal  strata,  particularly  on  the  Beaver,  Cedar, 
Winipic,  and  Superior  Lakes,  as  also  in  the  beds  of 
the  rivers  crossing  that  line.  It  is  also  remarkable 
that,  at  the  narrowest  part  of  Lake  Wmipic,  where  it 
is  not  more  than  two  miles  in  breadth*,  the  west  side 
is  faced  with  rocks  of  this  stone  thirty  feet  perpen- 
dicular ;  while,  on  the  east  side,  the  rocks  are  more 
elevated,  and  of  a  dark-grey  granite. 

The  latter  is  to  be  found  throughout  the  whole  ex- 
tent north  of  this  country,  to  the  coast  of  Hudson's 
Bay,  and  as  I  have  been  informed,  along  that  coast, 
onwards  to  the  coast  of  Labrador  ;  and  it  may  be  fur- 
ther observed,  that  between  these  extensive  ranges  of 
granite  and  lime-stone  are  found  all  the  great  lakes 
of  this  country. 

There  is  another  very  large  district  which   must 

*  Bitumen  is  also  found  on  the  coast  of  the  Slave  Lake, in  latitude  60.  nprth, 
ftearits  rliiciiar^e  tty  Mackenzie't  River  j  aadalsu  u«ajr  tlie  forks  uf  tlie  Elk  Riv^f* 


tude   52. 
IS  ijarrow 
n  a  point 
VIounta'm 
continue 
er,  at  its 
1  whence 
the  Mis- 
plains  is 
and  soil. 
)Ugh  ;he 
concret- 
it  part  of 
name   of 
of  these 
the  sum- 
jantities. 
it  side  of 
)ut  it  re- 
m  them, 
seen*  at 
on  of  the 
I  nearly 
',  Cedar, 
beds  of 
narkable 
where  it 
^rest  side 
perpen- 
ve  more 

hole  ex- 
ludson's 
it  coast, 
yr  be  fur- 
anges  of 
iat  lakes 

h   must 

Ie60.  north, 
te  Elk  Riv^f. 


Nofth'West  Continent  of  Americtt.        431 .. 

not  be  forgotten  \  and  behind  all  the  others  in  situa^  j 
tion  as  well  as  in  soil,  produce,  and  climate.    This 
comprehends  the  tract  called  the  Barren  Grounds, 
which  is  to  the  north  of  a  line  drawn  from  Churchill, , 
along  the  north  border  of  the  Rein-Deer  Lake,  to  the 
north  of  the  Lake  of  the  Hills  and  Slave  Lake,  and 
along  the   north  side  of  the  latter  to   the    Rocky 
Mountains,  which  terniinate  in  the  North  Sea,  lati- 
tude  70.  north,  and   longitude    135.   west;  in   the 
whole  extent  of  which  no  trees  are  visible,  except  a 
fev?  stinted  ones,  scattered  along  its  rivers,  and  with 
scarce  any  thing  of  surface  that  can  be  called  earth  ;. 
yet,  this  inhospitable  region  is  inhabited  by  a  people 
who  are  accustomed  to  the  life  it  requires.     Nor  has 
bountiful  nature  withheld  the  means  of  subsistence  ; 
the  rein-deer,  which  supply  both  food  and  clothing^ 
arte  satisfied  with  the  produce,  of  the  hills,  though/ 
they  bear  nothing  but  a  short  curling  moss,  on  a  spe- 
cies of  which,  that  grows  on  the  rocks,  the  people 
themselves  subsist  when  famine  invades  them.  Th^ir 
small  lakes  are  not  furnished  with  a  great  variety  of  , 
fish,  but  such  as  they  produce  are  excellent,  which, 
with  hares  and  partridges,  form  a  proportion  of  their 
food. 

The  climate  must  necessarily  be  severe  in  such  a 
country  as  we  have  described,  and  which  displays  so 
large  a   surface  cf  fresh  water.     Its  severity   is  ex*^ 
treme   on  the  coast  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  proceedi 
from  its  immediate  exposure  to  the  north-west  wipds', 
that  blow  off  the  Frozen  Ocean, 

These  winds,  in  crossing  directly  from  the  bay 
over  Canada  and  the  British  dominions  on  the  Atlan^ 
tic,  as  well  as  over  the  Eastern  States  of  North  Anie-  . 
rica  to  that  ocean,  (where  they  give  to  those  coim- 
tries  a  length  of  winter  astonishing  to  the  inhabitants 
of  the  same  latitudes  in  Europe)  continue  to  retain  a 
great  degree  of  force  and  cold  in  their  passage,  even 
over  the  Atlantic,  partjcularl/  at  the  time  when  the 
sun  is  in  its  southern  declination.  The  same  winds 
which  come  from  the  Frozen  Ocean,  over  the  barren 
grounds,  and  across  frozen  lakes  and  snowy  plains, 


■■\ 


4S9'         J^nmtal  of  a  Voyagt  throu^  the 


bounded  by  the  Rocky 'Mb%intAins^  l^se'  their  frigid^ 
influence)  as^they  tmvel'in'a  soithem  directioftv  till 
they  get  to  the  Atlatitit  Oeeani  where' they  cldse 
their  progress. 

Is  not  this'a  sufllieient  eaustf  for  the  difltetence'bfe*  • 
tTreen  thecllmate  in  Attierica^  and  that'  of'  the  same 
latitude  in  Europe  ? ' 

It-has  beeii  frifqucntly  advsneedv  that  the' cle«rinjg 
a^vay  the'\rood  ha»had*  a» .astonishing'  inflftietice  ia 
niclibrathig' the  climate  in  the  ^former  ;  but  r-amnot 
disposed^toasfieflt'to  that  opinion  in  the^ extent  ivhich' 
it  proposes  to  establish;  wtlen' I ^  consider  the  v^ry 
triflfngproportionof  the  country  clfeare^i  compai*ed 
\fith  the  whole.  The-  employment'  of  the  axe  may 
have  had-some  inconsid^rAblt^^efffcct :  but '  I'  lookto 
other  causes*  I  myself^obsiwYcd  in  a  country^  which 
was  in  an  absolute  state -of'  nature^  tha,t  theclhnate  is 
improving;  and  this  circumstanee  was'confirmed  to 
me  by  the  native  inhabitantiSt  of  it.  Such^  a  change) 
therefore,  nmst  proceed  from'  somt  predominating 
operation  in  the  system  of  the  globe  which  is  beyond 
my-  conjectu^rej  and,  indeed,  aboveiny  comprcihen- 
sionj  and  may,  probably,  in<  the  course  of  timer  giv? 
to  America  the  climate  of  Europe.  It  is  well  known^ 
ind(bed,  that  the*  waters  are-  decreasing  there,  and 
that' many  lakes  are'  draitting^^'and  fining  upfby  the 
earHi  which  is  carried*  ihtd  them  fi'om  the  hfgher 
lands  by  the  rivers :  andr  this  may  have  some  partial 
effect. 

The  climate  on  the  west  coast  of  Ateericii  assimi- 
lates nmch  more  to  that  of  Europe  in  the 'Same  lati- 
tudes :  I  think  very  little  difference  wiH  be  found,  ex- 
cept such  as  proceeds  from  the  vicinity  of  high 
mountains  covered  with  snow.  This  is  un  additional 
proof  that  the  difference  in  the  temperature  of  thfe  air 
proceeds  from  the  cause  already  mentioned. 

Much  has  been-  said,  and  'much  more  still  remains 
to  be  said,  on  the  peopling  of  America.  On  this 
subject  I  shall  confine  myself  to  one  or  two  observa- 
tions, and  leave  my  readers  to  draw  their  inferences 
from  them. 


The 
mediat< 
within 
that  of 
from  th 
round  t 
known 
and  agr 
bits,  wi 
ferent  t 
gonquin 
people, 
and  the 
countrie 
even  fou 
the  con 
tribes  w 
space  b 
the  £sq( 
coast  of 
Columbi 
ingly  to 
ria  ;  agr 
pie  now ; 

Of  th« 
we  kno\ 
there.  ' 
different 
the  plaii 
Saskatch 
southwar 


The  d 
north-we 
has  for  n 
ments,  a 
dividuals 
{practical 
ticabiliiy 
«md  Ame 


jsimt- 


JVbrth'West  Continent  of  Ameficom         4S3 

The  prog^ress  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  countiy  im- 
thediately  under  our  observation}  which  ts  comprised 
within  the  line   of  latitude  45.  north,  is  as  follows  : 
that  of  the  Esquimaux)  who  possess   the  sea  coast 
from  the  Atlantic  through  Hudson's  Straits  and  Bay, 
round  to  Mackenzie's  River  (and  I  believe  further)  is 
known  to  be  westward  :  they  never  quit  the  coast, 
and  agree  in  appearance vnianners,  language,  and  ha- 
bits, with   the    inhabitants  of  Greenland.     The  dif- 
ferent tribes  whom  I  describe  under  the  name  of  Al- 
gonquins  and  Knisteneaux,  but  originally  the  same 
people,  were  the   inhabitants  of  the  Atlantic  coast, 
and  the  banks  of  the  river  St.  Laurence  and  adjacent 
countries  :  their  progress  is  westerly,  and  they  are 
even  found  west  and  north  as  far  as  Athabasca.     On 
the  contrary,  the:  Chepewyans,  and  the   numerous 
tribes  who  speak  their  language,  occupy  the  whole 
space  between  the  Knisteneaux  country  and  that  of 
the  Esquimaux;,  stretching  behind  the  natives  of  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific,  to  latitude  52.  north,  on  the  river 
Columbia.^    Their  progress  is  easterly  }■  «nd,  accord- 
ingly  to  their  own  traditions,  they  came  from  Sibe*> 
ria  ;  agreeing  in  dress  and   manners  with  the  peo- 
ple now  found  upon  the  coast  of  Asia»^ 

Of  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast  %A  the  Pacific  Ocea» 
we  know  little  more  than  that  they  are  stationary- 
there.  The  Nadowasis  or  Assiniboins,  as  well  as  the 
different  tribes  not  particularly  described j  inhabiting, 
the  plains  on  and  about  the  source  and  banks  of  the 
Saskatchiwine  and  Assiniboin  rivers,  are  from  thr 
southward,  and  their  progiress  is  north-west*' 


I 

1 

^1, 


•••*..••••«•.••.• •«•• 


ife  an* 


Th»^  discovery  of  a  passage  by  sea-,  north'.east  or 
north-west  from  the  Atlantic  t»  the  Paci^c  Oceans 
has  for  many  years  excited  the  attention  of  govern- 
ments, and  encours^ed  the  enterprising  spirit  of  in- 
dividuals. The  non«existence»  however,  of  any  such 
practical  passage  being  at  leng^  determined,  the  prac- 
tlcabiliiy  of  a  passage  through  the  continents  of  Asia^ 
and  America  becomes  an  object  of  consideration*  Th«: 

Go 


49^        ^(mml  of  a  V0yog*  through  t/^ 

Ru8»i.anS)  yih.9  6rst  di^overed  that^  iUo»g  the  coftsts 
of  Aai^  po  UMfttl  pr  regulai?  n9.v}gaii/9n  e«itl>e4» 
opened  |in  iot^rior  cooimuDiicajtloii  by  riv:eni|  fi^c*  »|i)d 
through  that  long  and  wide^ex^oded  continent)  to  the 
^rait  th^t  separated  Asia  from  America)  ov^^r  which 
they  parsed  to  the  adjacent  islands  and  continent  oi 
the  latter.  Our  situation^  at  length*  is  in  some  degree 
sinnilar  to  theirs :  the  non-exi^eiice  of  a  practicable 
passage  by  sea^  and  the  existence  of  one  through  the 
continent)  H-v^  clearly  proved ;  and  it  requires  only 
the  counten^ce  and  support  of  the  British  Govern- 
ni&nt,  to  increase)  in  a  very  ample  proportion)  thif} 
f^ational  advantage)  and  secure  the  trade  of  that  couur 
try  to  \t»  swhjectSf 

Experience)  however)  has  proved)  that  this  trade) 
from  it^  very  naturS)  cannot  be  carried  on  by  indivir 
du^ls*  A  very  large  csq[>ital)  or  credit)  or  indeed 
both)  is  necessary)  and  consequently  an  association  of 
men  of  wealth  to  direct,  with  men  of  enterprise  to 
act)  in  one  coinmon  interest)  must  be  formed  oasuch 
principles)  as  that  in  due  time  the  latter  may  suc- 
ceed the  former)  in  continual  and  progressive  sucees- 
sioi}*  l^uch  wafi  the  equitable  and  supcessful  mode 
adopted  by  the  merchants  from  Capaday  which  has 
heen  already  described* 

The  junction  of  sush  a  commercial  aasociation 
with  the  Hud3on's>Bay  Company)  is  the  important 
measure  which  I  would  propose)  and  the  ^trade  might 
then  be  carried  on  with  a  very  superior  degree  of  ad^ 
vantage)  both  private  and  publiC)  under  the  privilege 
of  their  charter)  and  would  puqve)  in  fact)  the  com- 
plete fulfilment  of  the  conditions)  on  which  it  was 
first  granted. 

It  would  be  an  equa)  injustice  to  either  party  to  be 
excluded  from  the  option  of  such  an  undertaking ;  for 
if  the  one  has  a  right  by  charter^  has  not  the  other  a 
right  by  pripr  poss^essioU)  as  being  successors  to  the 
subjects  of  France)  w.ho  were  exclusively  possessed 
of  all  the  then  knowPc  parts  of  this  country)  before 
Canada  was  ceded  to  Great*Bpitain)  except  the  coast 
of  Hudson'srBay;  and   having   themselve.^  been  the 


Nmh4Vesi  Gonth^t  tf  America.       4$9 


it  eoRsts 

[itytotbe 

tinent  oi 
le  degree 
KCticable 
[>ugh  the 
re»  only 
Govern- 
iQii)  thip 
lat  counr 

is  trade) 
ly  ijidivir 
r  indeed 
ciation  of 
pprise  to 

I  OILftUCh 

mvf  auc- 
e  sucees- 
ful  niode 
rhich  ha^ 

iSQciation 
mportant 
de  might 
iree  of  ad- 
privilege 
the  com- 
ch  it  was 

irty  t©  be 
king;  for 
ke  other  a 
ors  to  the 
possessed 
'y,  before 
the  coast 
been  the 


cHtcorertrs  of  a  vast  extent  6f  counti^f  ftinfce  added  to 
his  Majeftty'i  temtoriev,  even  to  the  Hyp^rbortaii 
ailkd  the  Pacific  Oceans  ? 

if,  therefore,  that  conipttny  should  dtcllno,  or  he 
averse  to  engage  in,  Auch  an  extensive,  and  perhafld 
haxantotts  unidertaking,  it  would  not,  surely,  be  an 
unreasonable  proposal  to  them,  fVom  government) 
to  give  tip  a  right  which  they  refuse  to  exercise,  oH 
all6wing  them  a  just  and  reasonable  indemnification 
for  their  stock,  regulated  by  the  average  dividends  of 
a  certain  numbCf  of  yearfa,  or  the  aetual  price  at 
which  they  trinsfbr  their  st^k. 

By  enjoying  the  privilege  of  the  company's  charter^ 
(hough  but  for  a  limited  pefiod,  there  are  adven^ 
turers  who  would  be  willingv  as  they  are  able,  td  en- 

5 age  in,  and  carry  on  the  proposed  commercial  un* 
ertaking^  as  W^ll  to  give  the  most  ample  ind  satis- 
factory secdf ity  to  government  foir  the  fulfilment  of 
its  contitict  with  the  company*    It  wotiM,  at  the 

tame  time,  be  equailly  necessary  it  add  a  similar  pf  i- 
▼iiege  ef  trdde  on  the  Goliimbia  River,  aiid  its  tribu* 
twy  waters. 

H,  however,  it  should  appeaf,  that  the  Hudson's- 
Bay  Company  have  ait  es^citsive  right  to  carry  oil 
their  trade  as  they  think  proper,  aii^  continue  it  on 
the  narrow  scale,  and  With  so  littlie  benefit  to  the  pub- 
lic as  they  now  do  ;  if  they  should  refuse  to  entef 
intd  a  co-operatiVe  junction  ^ith  others,  what  i^eason- 
able  cause  can  they  assign  to  government  for  denyin^^ 
the  navigation  of  the  bay  to  Nelsoh's  River  ;  and,  by 
its  waters,  a  passage  to  ^d  {Vom  the  intericir  coun- 
try, for  the  use  of  the  adventurers,  and  fJbr  the  sole 
purpose  of  transport,  under  the  most  severe  and 
binding  restrictions  not  to  interfere  With  their  trade 
on  the  coast,  and  the  country  between  it  and  the  ale- 
tual  establishments  of  the  Canadian  traders.* 

**  lAddpendent  of  the  prosecution  of  Ms  gteat  object,  I  conceive  that  tli« 
Merchants  from  Canada  are  entitled  to  such  an  indulgence  (evf^v  if  they  should 
bi;  considered  as  not  possessing  a  rightful  claim)  in  order  thattiiey  might  be  en- 
abled to  extend  their  trade  be}6nd  their  present  limits,  and  have  itin  their  power 
to  supnlr  thfe  native^With  a  la^er  quatitity  of  useful  articles  i  the  enhanced  Vdlue 
of  ^ich,  ahd  thfe  presefit  dlHfcptty  of  transporting  tlieixi,  will  be  fully  compre- 
hended When  -t  rente, that  the  tract  of  ttahspotl  occiiptifs  ah  extent  offrom  t&r^ 
<•  t9«r  tboHjaad  iuiies»  through  u^nvards  of  sixty  large  Qredt  wklef  laKs,  i)i0'n<^ 


:       „ 


I 


4^6  yournal.J  u  Voyage  through  thf 


M:  » 


i 


By  these  waters  that  discharge  themselfe*  into 
Hudson's  Bay  at  Port  Nelson,  it  is  proposed  to  carry  on 
the  trade  to  their  source,  at  the  head  of  the  Saskatchi* 
wine  River,  which  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  not 
eight  degrees  of  longitude  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
The  Tacoutche  or  Columbia  River  flows  also  from  the 
same  mountains,  and  discharges  itself  likewise  in  the 
Pacific,  in  latitude  46.  20.  Both  of  them  are  capable 
of  receiving  ships  at  their  mouths,  and  are  navigable 
throughout  for  boats. 

The  distance  between  these  waters  is  only  known 
from  the  report  of  the  Indians.     If,  however,  this 
commiunication  should  prove  inaccessible,  the  route  I 
pursued,  though  longer,  inconsequence  of  the  great  an- 
gle it  makes  to  the  north,  will  answer  every  necessary 
purpose.     Eut  whatever  course  may  be  taken  from  the 
Atlantic,  the  Columbia  is  tho  line  of  communication 
form  the  Pacific  Ocean,  pointed  out  by  nature,  as  it  ia 
the  only  navigable  river  in  the  whole  extent  of  Van- 
couver's minute  survey  of  that  coast  i  its  banks  also 
from  the  first  level  country  in  all  the  Southern  extent 
of  continental  coast  from  Cook's  entry,  and  consequent- 
ly, the  most  northern  situation  fit  forcolonization,  and 
suitable  to  the  residence  of  a  civilized  people.    By 
opening  this   intercourse  between  the  Atlantic   and 
Pacific  Oceans,  and  forming  regular  establishments 
through  the  interior,  and  at  both  extremes,  as  well  as 
along  the  coasts  and  islands,  the  entire  command  of 
the  fur  trade  of  north- America  might  ba^obtained, 
from  latitude  48.  north  to  the  pole,  except  that  por- 
tion of  it  which  the  Russians  have  in  the  Pacific.     To 
this  may  be  added  the  fishing  in  both  seas,  and  the 
markets  of  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe.    Such  would 
be  the  field  for  commercial  enterprize,  and  incalcula- 
ble would  be  the  produce  of  it,  when  supported  by  the 
operations  of  that<:redit  and  capital  which  Great-Bri- 
tain so  pre-eminently  possesses.     Then   would  this 

merous  rivers;  and  that  the  means  of  transport  are  slight  bark  canoes.  It  must 
also  be  observed,  that  those  waters  are  iitercepted  by  more  than  two  hundred 
vaptds,  along  which  the  articles  of  merchandize  are  chiefly  carried  on  men's  backs, 
and  over  an  hundred  and  thirty  carryingrplaces,  from  twenty-five  paces  to  thirteen 
:miles  i  n  length,  where  Ujie  casoes  and  ciargoes  proceed  by  the  same  toiiiomc-aiul 
f>«Nlo«s  operatum. 


I 


V 


Korth-West  Continent  of  America,        437 


'et  into 
:arry  on 
ikatchi- 
ins,  not 
Ocean* 
-om  the 
:  in  the 
capable 
ivigable 

known 
er,  this 

route  I 
reat  an- 

xesHarjr 
rom  the 
[lication 
,  as  it  is 
of  Van- 
nks  also 
1  extent 
lequent- 
ion,  and 
le.    By 
tic   and 
ihments 
\  well  as 
nand  of 
btained, 
lat  por- 
ic.     To 
and  the 
;h  would 
icalcula- 
;d  by  the 
•eat-Bri- 
)uld  this 

es.  It  must 
wo  hundred 
men's  backs, 
2S  to  thirteen 
toiiiomcaiui 


xoimtfy  begin  to  be  remunerated  for  the  expenses  it 
has  sustained  in  discovering  and  surveying  the  coast 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  is  at  present  left  to  Ameri- 
can adventurers,  who,  without  regularity  or  capital,  or 
the  desire  of  conciliating  future  confidence,  look  al- 
together to  the  interest  of  the  moment.  They  there- 
fore, collect  all  the  skins  they  can  procure,  and  in  any 
manner  that  suits  them,  and  having  exchanged  them 
at  Canton  for  the  produce  of  China,  return  to  their 
own  country.  Such  adventurers,  and  many  of  them, 
as  I  have  been  informed,  have  been  very  successful) 
would  instantly  disappear  from  before  a  well-regula- 
ted trade. 

It  would  be  very  unbecoming  in  me  to  suppose  for 
«  moment,  that  the  East-India  Company  would  hesi- 
tate to  allow  those  privileges  to  their  fellow-subjects 
which  are  permitted  to  ibreigners,  in  a  trade  that  is  so 
much  out  of  the  lineof  their  own  commerce,  and  there- 
fore cannot  be  injurious  to  it. 

Many  political  reasons,  which  it  is  not  necessary 
here  to  enumerate,  must  present  themselves  to  the 
mind  of  every  man  acquainted  with  the  enlarged  sys- 
tem and  cap  %cities  of  British  commerce,  in  support  of 
the  measure  which  I  have  very  briefly  suggested,  as 
i)romising  the  most  important  advantages  to  the  trade 
of  the  united  kini^doms. 


FINIS, 


■   I 


